Thall818's Father/Son build thread Chassis # 200

[thall818]

After waiting almost a year, my kit arrived yesterday. Chassis #200. Here is the plan

The car - 818S

The donor - 2002 WRX Wagon Stage 2

Ordered Options - powder coat


The plan

Basically a street car. Cruise into Cars & Coffee, etc. I don't see track time in my future. Three kids and all that goes with it.

Engine - considering upgraded turbo and fuel system

Interior - May try to use the center console out of the wagon. The seats in my donor are gray leather and were just done not long ago, with seat heaters. I don't like the weight, but I like the price. I will try to sell them and get lightweight seats.

ABS - on the fence. May not be a bad idea for a street car. I'm not afraid of custom brake lines.

Wheels - Kosei K1-TS 17x8 45mm offset. Came with the donor. Too nice not to use. May add 5mm wheel spacers. Federal 595 tires are in the budget.


The builders

Myself - I've been restoring and working on old Fords and British cars for going on 30 years. This is my first experience with anything with an ECU or kit related.

My Sons - One is 12, the other is 9. The 12 year old is excited. The 9 year old isn't quite there yet. My thought is to get them involved in the principles, which is why I chose the kit. Restoration work is much different. Not a bad place to land, but not an easy place to start. My daughter is 7. She's a little young, but I'm sure she'll pop out on occasion and want to help. Mainly, I expect it to be me and the oldest. We'll see.

The kit will be at home in the garage, the parts and donor will be at work. I'll do the part removal, cleanup, & refinish at work, and assemble with them at home.

We have a busy summer planned so progress will be slow out of the gate. Hopefully we'll be in high gear by Fall.

[David Hodgkins]

Welcome to the forum! You and the kids are embarking on a true adventure, one that they will always remember!

Did you know that FFR did a news release when they manufactured your chassis?
https://www.factoryfive.com/whats-new/team-builds-200th-818-sports-car-chassis/

It's pretty cool to have the assembly team and Dave Smith pose next to your kit! Not too many get that little bonus:
https://www.factoryfive.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/05/DSC_0714.jpg

I'm looking forward to following your build. Are you going to the FFR open house in a few weeks?

:)

[68GT500MAN]

Looks like a great plan and project for the "team" to work on. Congratulations on the delivery!
Doug

[thall818]

Thanks guys. I can't wait to get going.

[Tamra]

Congrats on the delivery! I'm looking forward to following your build thread.

[thall818]

Out with the old, in with the new. I brought home the 818 on Fathers' Day and loaded out the tiger and put it in storage this morning. I'm still waiting till it gets a little hotter before I begin (LOL), bit at least it's in position.

3015730156

[riptide motorsport]

Congrats....your on the trip of a lifetime!!

[thall818]

So I've managed to find a little time to do some work. Hopefully this weekend I will get the front suspension together. I couldn't resist the aluminum front control arms, so I purchased a set on ebay and refinished them. I smoothed the srea for the shock mount and did a little shaving on the control arms to get them to sit flat.

31418

Then I bead blasted and cleared them.

I was thrown a curve ball today. My donor came with a set of Kosei K1 TS rims that I was going to use on the car. I was cleaning and detailing them for the rolling chassis when I noticed that 3 are 17x7, 1 is 17x8. What a tool the last owner was. They are useless to me now as there's no way I can do that. I couldn't sleep at night.

So a new 17x8 is almost $250 with shipping. Then I have 3 used rims and one new. That look good but aren't my first choice. Looks like it's back to the drawing board. I'm thinking 18x8. Tire rack is having a great sale right now.

31419

On the rear suspension, I got Murphy on that as well. The 10 in. long lateral link bolt on one side wouldn't come out without destroying it and the bushings. I purchased the new bolt ($26..ouch). But $50 for two bushings is a little rough for my taste. That's before refinishing the ugly arms.

On ebay I see adjustable later arm/trailing arm kits, with bushings for $200 or so. Anyone tried these? On such a light car that I don't plan to "baja" like a Subaru I can't see an issue.

Did I happen to mention that this is a budget build using mostly donor parts. LOL

[Frank818]

Trailing arms or lateral links you got on ebay?

BTW, first time I see someone using three 7" rims and one 8" rim. This is just mind-blowing.

[thall818]

I'm looking at these on ebay:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/230965442432?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Looks good and plenty of adjustment.


I didn't pick up on the wheel thing at first as they all have the same size tire, but when I was pressure washing the back sides I noticed one had a different contour. I just wonder if he was running it on the front or rear? I'll bet it was interesting around corners. Of course, now that they are all laying in the drive, the 8 doesn't even look close.

[thall818]

One weird thing. When I was installing the upper ball joints, it concerned me that it was way too easy. On one I was able to bottom it out easily by hand. The other I barely needed to do the vice trick. I torqued both in the vice and used loctite, but did anyone else have it that easy? Would you be concerned if it was that easy?

[metros]

Yes, I would be concerned if they went in that easily. I would look at doing some spot welds on the top to make sure it stays in place.

[Frank818]

You got the full trailing arms/lateral links kit and on the lateral links, check out closely if your spacers on each end fit within the chassis brackets, otherwise you'll have to cut them (spacers).

[mikeb75]

Those ebay links look exactly like the kit I bought (for $225; you win!).

The spacers are oversized for the mounting points on the 818 chassis; you will have to make adjustments. The paint finish is pretty awful also, easily damaged. I am just getting to the installation, there is a decent amount of adjustment available, but the locknut/hardware seems a little low rent. I'll be using a threadlocker after the suspension is adjusted.

Also, the trailing arms can have clearance issues depending on the size/offset of your rears. I believe they actually reduce total clearance from the stock arms.

[thall818]

Fun day in the garage/shop today. Got more done than expected. I've mocked up my suspension assembly and was hoping someone could confirm it. Nothing is tight yet, so it's easy to fix....for now.

314953149631497

Don't mind the strange geometry, I have the shock sleeves adjusted all the way down just for how it sits on my cart.

My big question is do the grease fittings on the upper A-arm point up or down. Seems to depend on which page of the manual you are looking at, or maybe I'm just a bad reader.

Also, my ball joints in the upper A-arm are straight, rather than being tilted. Is this right? why are some tilted?

My sway bar won't fit in the blast cabinet so I need to take that off and deal with it, so please ignore the finish. It is a 19mm or 20mm bar. Is this better or worse than the smaller one?

Thanks in advance!

[Jaime]

Hey... you've got threaded rod for your sway bar. Mine's been backordered for 10 weeks.

I think you're upper control arms are upside-down.

[Frank818]

My big question is do the grease fittings on the upper A-arm point up or down.

Up. And the smaller black arm towards the rear of the car.


Could you tell me where you got your bolts and what they are for the silver ones on top of the spindle brackets?
I have specs, I know one place, but just in case you got them elsewhere or some different specs, I am looking at different options before I order.

[thall818]

I used the 2 M16 bolts and flange nuts from the kit. It says to use the rear strut bolt, but as you know, it isn't big enough. Also, there are 8 strut bolts and flange nuts. The manual tells you to use 6 of them on spindles and the 4 nuts on the rear of the front LCA to for the pivot bushings.

I haven't found where it tells me to use the M16 bolts, but I did a quick search of the .pdf of the manual and got no results other than a torque spec.

I suspect they are to be used on the spindles it is just left out of the manual.

[Frank818]

From the kit? So you are one of the lucky ones who got M16 in your kit. 181 didn't. :)

[thall818]

I was lucky and didn't even know it. Now I'm wondering if the guys getting red cars are even luckier?? Any chance you could just clear coat it?

So I went to put my brake master on after drilling the 5/16" holes. I grabbed the 1" bolts per the manual...LOL.

I had heard of problems and almost ordered the adapter kit with longer pushrod, but decided on my own controversial fix that I could do at home.

31659

I used a 5/16" x 1.5" Grade 5 bolt. I took a look at the tensile strength of the original bolt (6,300# min ea. per bolt, which is much higher than the holding power of the nut) then guessed at what it might be now. I then compared it to the effort I estimated it would take to break off an aluminum tab of the master cylinder and decided that I was in no way near the limits of the sanded down bolt head, much less the strength of my leg, with or without leverage.

I did it using a benchtop belt sander and did not remove any meat from the bolt shaft.

[svanlare]

I went the other way and cut some of the aluminum, but ended up with a very similar result.

[thall818]

I think the reason I'm having so much fun, is because I'm not working on the wiring.

I de-powered the rack

3193431935

Then I painted and installed it along with the steering column. Centered everything up and all looks good. Ordered inner and outer tie rod ends and new bellows.

I bead blasted my original calipers and painted them with DupliColor caliper paint. The wheels won't be staying, but look good for now.

3193631937

I order my lateral arm/trailing arm kit and got the rear mocked up. A couple of things about this kit. It has the advantage of being fully fully adjustable. It has the disadvantage of being fully adjustable. I ordered it in red (blue was the other option). It is a different red than is shown in the ebay listing. Buyer beware. the trailing arms appear to have bushings at the frame mount. They do not. They are heim joints with rubber dust boots. A bushing here would cut down NVH (noise, vibration, harshness). I will at least keep my stock arms in the event they are too jarring for the street. Time will tell.

3193831940

Next up is tightening the front end and then it's on to brake lines....

[Frank818]

I guess you are still test fitting things, cuz you are missing a lot of spacers. :)

I love your long bottom spindle bolt! Super clean!

[RM1SepEx]

the yellow shocks are not supposed to be used upside down...:eek: the red ones can because they are gas pressurized

[thall818]

Frank, yeah, I got my new arms in and promptly realized I hadn't painted my spacers yet. I just wanted to test fit the parts on the car.


Thanks Dan, I appreciate the help. Only now I want the reds. I guess I better hold off for now and just flip the ones I have

[thall818]

Time to celebrate. i just received the last of my backordered parts from the factory.

[thall818]

Brake lines are formed and installed. Clutch line is run as far as possible until I buy the long stainless kit-

http://www.replicaparts.com/818%20parts%20page.htm


I installed the gas pedal. It seems to have limited travel before it hits the fulcrum rod of the clutch. I have the cable style throttle. Will I be able to get WOT on full depress? I'll know soon enough, just curious.

My seats came in. They are the Sparco Chrono Road seats. They are large. They fit, but it's tight. They have convinced me that even if I go with a smaller seat, I am 6' and will need the Boyd tank (Mo Money!)

32263

Also, a word to the wise. I purchased Chinese steering bellows on ebay. Now I get to buy an OEM pair. I'll have like $80 in bellows by the time I'm done.

[STiPWRD]

I installed the gas pedal. It seems to have limited travel before it hits the fulcrum rod of the clutch. I have the cable style throttle. Will I be able to get WOT on full depress? I'll know soon enough, just curious.

My seats came in. They are the Sparco Chrono Road seats. They are large. They fit, but it's tight. They have convinced me that even if I go with a smaller seat, I am 6' and will need the Boyd tank (Mo Money!)
I noticed the same issue with my gas pedal so I'm curious too (but I think we'll be ok) and I too just sprang for a Boyd tank cuz the stock tank felt uncomfortable.

[Quiny]

I went with the Boyd tank as well for the same reason, it makes a really big difference. I'm not sure if they ever developed the "big guy" replacement tank from FFR. You are making great progress.

[K3LAG]

Did you get the Medium or Standard Chrono Roads? I got the mediums, they are just a bit smaller. I don't have them mounted yet, but it appears they will fit well. We don't have mounting quite worked out yet. I'll let you know what I do if I get there first. We have them on the Sparco sliders and plan to mount the rear as low as possible and the front about 2 inches higher.

Larry

[thall818]

Thanks guys. I got the standard seats as they were on sale. Got a great price, but would have preferred the mediums now that I know. If I do keep and mount them, I will have no room for error (measure 8x, drill once)

I was planning on buying these for mounting: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-g1150

[Aero STI]

Those brackets from summit make me nervous. When it comes to my seats mounted in a vehicle, I don't like to mess around. I had these laser cut, formed, and brace pieces welded in. They go flat to the tubing in the back and 1.5" of lift in the front.

http://i.imgur.com/38YODFQl.jpg

[thall818]

Wow, I haven't done much in the last month. I've been out of town almost every weekend. I tightened up the front suspension and replaced the inner & outer tie rods and boots.

Yesterday I finally got back to it and finished up the brake lines. Then I bled the system and verified that it was leak free. The only bummer I have is that one caliper is frozen. Not a huge deal, just another $50 or so down at NAPA and that will go away.

333553335633357333583335933360

After that I was able to get the drivers' side dead pedal box painted & installed. I saved a bunch of time on this by creating an extension on my impact gun to give me about 6-8" of extension on my nut driver. I used this to put self tapping screws in the panel next to clutch. This allowed me to screw it in place instead of drilling, marking, removing and the drilling the frame. I could then pull screws out one by one and replace with rivets.

BTW, after doing this method, I am no longer using a drill bit for 1/8" holes to mount aluminum. I'm just zip screwing, then replacing with rivets. IMO I think the screws are faster, and they make the perfect size hole.

Next I need to do the timing belt, valve cover gaskets, LSD install, and detail the engine. Time to get it in.

Also, I need to get my later links and trailing arms off the car and repainted. I hate the color.

All this will have to wait though. I'm headed to New York this weekend for wedding.

[thall818]

I'm in Watkins Glen, NY for the first time in my life. I'm at a wedding. LOL

[thall818]

Received my Boyd tank this week. Set it in the car with seats to check out leg room and seat angle. Plenty of room. Should make for a roomy cabin

3433334334

[AZPete]

Now that you have installed the Boyd tank, the next step is modifying the 1/8' firewall that covers the tank. I called around until I found a metal shop that had a big bending brake and took the aluminum piece to them to bend the most-forward bend an additional 20 degrees. ($40 and 2 hpurs driving). Then on this forum I saw a guy who just cut the piece at the shelf and overlapped it. Consider cutting the panel before getting it bent because it would be much easier.

[thall818]

Thanks for the tip! I was already thinking about where to go to have the angles changed. I missed the post with the guy who cut his. Sounds like the way to go.

[svanlare]

Great timing, my boyd tank should show up this weekend and I've started trying to plan the best way to change the firewall.

[wleehendrick]

FYI, a 20 degree bend to the firewall seems to put it right on the Boyd tank. I was lucky to have a friend of a friend with a machine shop with a large press break to bend it for free. I found around 16-17 degree to be ideal to allow a little gap between the FW and tank.

[thall818]

If I do the 20 degree bend, where does it go? Is it a change to one of the existing bends? Maybe it will be obvious when I mock it up, but I'm afraid it will be Wednesday night before that can happen.

[wleehendrick]

Yes, it's the lowest bend in the upper firewall piece bent an additional 15-20 degrees; it should end up close to a right angle and should be pretty obvious when mocking up. There's an early build thread with a good image, but I don't remember whose it was. The lower firewall piece you move back 2.5-3", so it's just in front of the tank.

[Jaime]

Here's (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13827-Jaime-s-Western-New-York-Build&p=165804&viewfull=1#post165804) the part of my thread where I describe what I did.

[thall818]

I took my firewall pieces to work yesterday at the industrial park. During lunch I drove around and found a brake. Guy pointed to it and said help yourself. Knocked it out in short order and best of all, no charge. I didn't have an angle gauge so I just eyeballed the 110* angle. I'm pleased with the results. Once again, thanks to everyone for your tips. This community rocks.

3447634477

On another note, I finished pulling my wiring harness from the donor last night. Wow, that's a job. I stuffed it all in a bin and went to move it. That thing weighs a ton.

I'm still on the fence about the iwire harness. It would make things so much easier, but the cost. I also look at how many have used the stock harness, and that makes me think, why not?

I have more time to consider and no shortage of tasks in the meantime. I still need to put the LSD in the trans so I can get the drivetrain in.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Save the wire harness diet until winter when it is to cold to work in the garage.
My pool table came in handy last winter.
34481

[Quiny]

Save the wire harness diet until winter when it is to cold to work in the garage.
My pool table came in handy last winter.
34481

Ditto, my kids just got the pool table back. It was the perfect size and height. Great job getting the firewall bent, I'm really happy I did that too. There was no way it would be a comfy ride for me without it.

[Niburu]

I hope we see this at the C&C Richmond when it's ready!

[thall818]

Yep, C&C Richmond, an autocross or two, and a track day or two. That is my recipe for smile.

[thall818]

Finally got around to taking my rear suspension apart and bead blasting, painting my suspension arms. Went black. I considered red, but after looking at purple so long I just didn't want them to stand out any more. Also gave the shop a good cleaning.

349523495334954


Made some progress on the engine. Timing belt done. TGV delete done. Perrin front pulley added. New seals and filters for the injectors. Still need to reconnect everything.

3495534956


Mocked up my dirty radiator. Noticed a tweak on the drivers side. That's where my donor was hit. Light enough that the radiator doesn't leak. I think it will work for now.

34957


Question: I'm sure I missed this, but my 2002 radiator sits like about 1 inch too high. The brackets are floating in space. Did anyone else have this problem? If I make spacers, will the body fit no prob, or will I just have to do something else?

34958


Thanks in advance for your help.

Travis

[Frank818]

I think all Impreza rads sits the same, I got an older pre-2000 (or pre-2002) version and it's the same thing. I've been told there is so much space in there you can still push the rad up more before it touches the hood.

[RM1SepEx]

original frames had the radiator lower but had a problem with the inlet interfering with the steering rack, we shimmed the radiator up and used spacers at the top... some used 3d printer to make brackets Craig (mechie3) made some nice brackets, you still have an inch or so clearance to the underside of the hood

[longislandwrx]

flip the bushing. should get you pretty close, then space it up.

[Mechie3]

The parts I sell are essentially what you describe. It's a new bracket to hold the bushing and then a spacer to hold it up. I then just put a bolt all the way through the spacer and bracket to secure it to the frame. Pics in the link.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13963-Radiator-Supports-Zero-Decibel-Motorsports

[thall818]

Hey guys. I bottom mounted my shifter tonight to mock it up and check everything. It can't be right. It's indexed clockwise. The pink paint mark is like at 1:30 or 2pm. So if it just sits on the bench and you look at it from the back it leans left.

When I had it sitting on top, 1st gear would hit the steering wheel and wiper arm if the wipers were on full. Now it's caressing my leg and quite frankly, I'm not interested in snuggling while driving.

Is this normal? I already removed it and plan to go by my machine shop and have them re-index it tomorrow.


351763517735178

Please let me know if I'm missing something.

[longislandwrx]

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12618-Shifter-mod


I swapped mine for a shorter lever but iirc mine was pointed back originally.

[thall818]

Thanks Longisland. The link gave me some ideas and things to work with.

Rather than pay someone, buy something, or take it apart, I tested my luck (and skills) and put it in our arbor press at work. I bent it to the right by only 3/4". Figured I'd take it home and try it before I went too far. No heat, so nothing had to come apart. (5 minute solution)

The result is just where I want it. since I mounted it forward and low, I used shorter spacers in front. This tilts it back centering it in the console hole. Also it helps to get the shift cables through the original holes.

At this point, I'm happy with the position of everything.

352003520135202

If you look close at the first photo, you can see the "S" bend.

[thall818]

Got a few things done. I got some aluminum sheet this week and cut new side panels to match my Boyd tank. I also decided to add a firewall between the engine and gas tank.

The most fun by far was modifying my center console. Covered in the center console thread, I used a heat gun to narrow the front of the console.

Now I need to mock up the windshield frame and mount the dash so i can get the console positioned correctly. I expect the dash to cover about the top third of the console face. I won't be using the silver plastic face, radio, or HVAC controls. Instead the plan is to make a custom face for mounting additional gauges.

3552735528355293553035531

I still need to cut holes in the firewall for tank, wiring, cables, etc.

[Tamra]

Wow, the center console looks great!

[harrymorrow1]

Great work on the center console I am hoping to do the same but I am thinking of installing a radio, heating and HVAC (a lot more research to do still) if not where I live the car would stay in the garage for best part of 5-6 months my girlfriend would not want to ride along!

I look forward to following your build with interest, thanks for sharing these details.

Harry

[thall818]

Thanks guys. I plan to make a custom faceplate for the front and mount a 7" Samsung Galaxy tablet in there. This will be used for GPS, radio control, and hopefully DashCommand, if it will work. I know others are having trouble with the program now.

I think I need defrosters in VA to pass state inspection. I haven't crossed that bridge yet, but the controls will have to be elsewhere if/when I do.

[Niburu]

I think I need defrosters in VA to pass state inspection. I haven't crossed that bridge yet, but the controls will have to be elsewhere if/when I do.

and windsheild wipers....

[thall818]

Been a while since my last post. Moving forward at a snails pace.

First, a shout out to wleehendrick for helping me out with a lost part.

Ok, so the engine and trans are in. Shifter is connected. Clutch is connected but not bled.

39506

I ordered an iwire harness. It hurt, but I think I'll like it. I'm in line. Should be about the end of May before I receive it.

In the meantime, it's back to the console for the final fitment. I carved some plexi and covered with blue carbon fiber wrap. The only thing I am considering now is changing out for a padded dash. I think it will add a nice touch. Anyone tried one yet?

Here are the final pics with the parking brake hooked up and the shifter functional. I had to disconnect the shift cable to get the console in. Not a hair of extra space for this console.

395133951239511

[wleehendrick]

Glad to help... That console looks really good!

[Tamra]

That looks fantastic! Remind me - is that the oem console?

[Mechie3]

It looks like an 02-04 console. Those would fit much better as they were a two piece design. My 06 is more of a one piece where the center console and the trans tunnel part all flow together design wise. Much harder to only use half and have it look good.

[wallace18]

Super job on the console.

[chedda]

Looks fantastic! I love the center console.

[thall818]

Thanks guys!

Yep, it's a modified 02 console.

[Frank818]

Nice finish! Too bad I couldn't do it with mine for other fitment and clearances issues. Really great idea!

[billjr212]

I was inspired by your results and pulled my center console out of the pile of "sell" parts in the attic and plan to give it a go this week. Will post results (if successful) on my build thread as well.

Thanks for posting all the photos! Great job again.

[thall818]

Bill, I posted on this thread:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?14676-Center-Console&highlight=center+console

Where I screwed the two sections together and then used quick grip clamps to pull in the back while I carefully heated the sides with a heat gun.

This took out the extreme flare in the passenger and drivers' footwell. Also, I cut off the mounting tabs.

Thanks guys!

[thall818]

Ok, so keeping up with a build thread is not my strong suit. LOL

August 4th was the day of my first start, followed by a couple weekends out of town. Then, Thursday I took it on the first drive in the hood. I made some adjustments, suspension tweaks and alignment changes on Friday. Everything was good, so I went autocrossing on Saturday.

I have to say, it felt a little nuts. Not much test driving can be done in my hood, so it seemed a little rushed to take it out so soon, but i'm so glad I did. What a reward, wow!

446784467944680

So now, the autocross. What can I say, wow. What a reward/motivator/inspiration. Holy cow, this thing is awesome. A refresher on my setup:

02 WRX engine, LSD, TGV delete, Cobb down pipe with high flow cat and flowmaster muffler, Stage 1 tune, Federal 595 RS-R tires

I think I could have done better if I had the car professionally aligned. I was just planning on waiting until the car is done, rather than doing it twice.

It was practice day before Sunday's main event, so there were half or less as many participants, which meant double or more the runs. We ran from 11-4. Each person had to work the track for 1:15 during the day. There were times during the day when there was virtually no line, you could finish, then go again in a matter of just a few minutes.

I am proud to say, that with the exception of working the track, I ran the car over and over and over all day long, start to finish. I gave it no mercy. If it was going to have a problem, I wanted it now before I go further.

I haven't autocrossed in year, but my times were awesome (due to the car, not the driver). The crowd loved it. They said it was great fun to watch and had a great sound. Lots of interest.

I was running at the very top of the pack. With a proper suspension setup, I'm convinced this car could dominate. (definitely would need a better driver)

Traction off the line is minimal with anything more than the slightest bit of throttle. I could induce very little oversteer. I could induce massive understeer. Toward the very end of the day I could get the rear to it's limits on one particular turn. But it was very hard to get the front to dig enough for this to occur. I think this will be corrected with a proper alignment.

Also, by the end of the day I was only running 20 lbs in the front tires and I still wasn't wearing over the edge of the flat. I just didn't want to go lower.

One thing I forgot. I have an SG3 setup for Dash Command with the Bluetooth OBD transmitter. Yeah, I left that at home. Doh!

I did, however, mount a bar so I could attach my iphone and get some video.

https://youtu.be/pWMF5d5IWXU

One day later and I'm still on cloud 9!

Next up, AWIC, then Body install. But first, the wife needs some projects done. LOL.

[mikeb75]

Superb looking build; congrats on the first start and double-plus good on autocrossing the car at this stage!

[Hindsight]

Congrats on the first outing!

[Frank818]

Congrats! Really nice with the OEM console, clean build! Can't wait to see the final result.

[Tamra]

Very nice! But your video stabilizer makes the car look like it's driving on clouds! LOL

So apparently it was fine with the A2A intercooler? I see you are still planning to go A2W?

[thall818]

Thanks guys. Video stabilizer? What stabilizer. No GoPro here. I took corrugated angle and zip tied it to the roll bar, then zip tied my iPhone to the bar. Not the best, but I run what I brung.

No prob at all on the temps. I was able to do back to back to back runs with very little wait/cool down in between. There were times when there was a two car or less line. I'm convinced the car is fine in go kart mode. I'm equally convinced that the A2A intercooler won't work at all with the body.

My next step is AWIC. I'll do this before body install. I think it's a must have.

Also considering the side louvres and hump louvres. Seeing the infra red images makes me think more needs to be done to get the heat out. I wish I had access to a wind tunnel, LOL.

As far as I can see, the only real sources of ambient air are at the sides and under the car. The rear diffuser has to grab some air and bring it up, so where does that air go? Is the rear vent big enough to let it all out or does it pressurize the compartment and fight the side vents? Or maybe stated better, is air in <= air out?

[Tamra]

Do you have gauges so you knew what your intercooler temps were? I think the AWIC is a good idea too, but I'm curious what sort of temperatures you were seeing with the A2A with the body off.

As for the video, it looks like you used youtube's stabilizer is all I meant.

[thall818]

Sorry, I didn't have any gauges or bring a temp probe. I don't expect to run it again before going to AWIC.

[Frank818]

As far as I can see, the only real sources of ambient air are at the sides and under the car.

How about the small top scoops on either side of the humps panel? Are they effective or low pressure prevents air from coming in the engine bay in that area?

[thall818]

Frank, I never thought of that. Immediately made me think of the Countach intakes mounted high at a 45 degree angle (approx). Personally, I don't know.

I think we all look forward to someone figuring it out though.

[Frank818]

I'd be surprised if Chad doesn't know if these top scoops work or not. :)
I thought we could have some extended scoops like Kurk's side scoops but for the top scoops, looking similar to the Lambo, for instance.