Add-ons, modifications, accessories

[Pirate]

Just wanted to get an idea of what guys have done that they would do again or what they wouldn't do again. Sometimes I'll read through the forums and see something that I would like to do/add on the car and I don't write it down and I forget.

Chris

[68GT500MAN]

I will start. My roadster has a glove box (fuse panel mounted inside), seat heaters, dual roll bars, overrides, heat shields, floor mats, brake handle.
Doug

[Gumball]

If it weren't for all the mods on my car, I would have been done years ago.

My car includes quite a few period-correct modifications and (at least in my unbiased opinion) improvements. As Greg said, though, some of these are obsolete due to changes to the Mk4 - i.e., rolled cowl edges are already included.

Here's my list - if you want to see how-to posts on many of these, check out the Modifications for Originality forum at ffcars.

• Riveted hood scoop, modified contour per Competition Cobra
• Rivets ringing the leading edge of the hood as on the original comp and S/C cars
• Rolled wheelwell / flare lips
• Smoothed and painted body interior - (Eastwood Alumi-Blast to replicate look of bare aluminum)
• Hidden body side mounts (now standard on Mk4)
• Revised front body mounts - looks like original-style riveted mounts
• Original style hood prop rod and storage clip (3/8" stainless tubing - McMaster-Carr)
• Bumpers w/hoops – polished stainless steel from FFR
• Roll hoop, driver’s side only – 1 ½” Mk4 version from FFR – chromed by Kerr West in Phoenix
• Side pipes – semi-gloss black (ceramic coated locally)
• Four-into-four headers - semi-gloss black (FFR - ceramic coated locally after stripping original silver finish)
• Smiths mechanical gauges set in an S/C dash layout (speedometer, tach, oil temp, oil pressure, water temp, volts, and fuel from Nisonger)
• Leather dash covering to match seats
• Smiths rally clocks - stopwatch and clock (UK supplier from ffcars.com thread)
• Period correct switches, knobs, and indicator lights on dash (********** and Moss – MG and Healy parts - mostly Lucas w/relays)
• Lock-out style shift lever with correct flat-top black knob with 4-speed markings
• Pull straps on doors (hooked to door latches to act as a release pull) – black leather
• Door panels, black, with map pockets – black leather with vinyl pockets (********** / Herb’s – have both, haven’t decided which to use)
• Locking glove box to match dash covering - lock and finger tab from local RV store
• Ashtray - OEM-style Cobra part (Cobra Restorers)
• Footwell drain holes with plugs
• Waxed cord wrapping on wood steering wheel at spokes (see my "how to" on this forum)
• Chassis weep holes at low points - 1/4"
• Tags (AC Cars and Shelby American) – stamped with SVT engine # and my personal build #
• Dash to transmission tunnel tubes (see my "how to" on this forum)
• Underdash support panel (Breeze)
• Seat mounting pans (Breeze)
• Kirkey low-back vintage race seats - modified contour, leather covered by local upholstery shop, inflatable lumbar on both, and seat heaters
• Serge-bound carpet edges where visible (local upholstery shop)
• Black leather covering for visible chassis tubes in cockpit
• Rubber heel and side pads on carpet by pedals (local upholstery shop)
• Degas tank – OEM Ford (modified big block tank, aluminum tubing, Breeze lower radiator hose kit and bracket, and various OEM hoses)
• Coolant catch tank connected to degas tank - mounted to Breeze radiator shroud - stainless steel, media blasted to match raw aluminum
• Old-style engine front cover w/v-belt pulleys for crankshaft, waterpump, and alternator
• OEM Ford dual-point distributor with Pertronix
• Pertronix coil w/spray painted yellow top and reproduction Ford decal (vintage Mustang supplier)
• OEM Ford style spark plug wires and boots
• Turkey pan for Holley 650 double-pumper
• OEM-style mechanical fuel pump with single in-tank pickup from Breeze (non-return) and one-piece stainless steel chassis fuel line
• Ford big block valve covers on adapter plates - "Cobra LeMans" (reproductions from vintage Mustang supplier and plates from a clubcobra.com vendor)
• Canton "T" high-capacity road race oil pan with original "Cobra - American Shelby" decals
• Stellings and Hellings (small) air cleaner w/K&N filter
• Hood opening under scoop modified to fit turkey pan (front eight inches of hole ‘glassed over – no longer necessary on Mk4 as you can cut the hole to your liking)
• Oil catch can on firewall (original S/C design from Cobra Restorers – basically a replica of a ‘50s brass Kohler lawnmower gas tank)
• Girling remote brake reservoir cans (pair from Moss Motors) with braided supply lines (Pegasus Auto Racing) and adapter nipples (Lodestone Billet Works) to attach to OEM Ford ’94 SVT master cylinder
• Original style hood hinges (Breeze)
• Hood hinge filler panel modified to look like original radiator bracket with extra tab, post, and pin (Breeze)
• Hidden trunk hinges (Breeze)
• Turn signal – self cancelling with small tip - no switch - right hand style (Russ Thompson)
• Dash switches from ’65 Mustang – ignition, lighter, lights (any vintage Mustang restoration supplier)
• Trunk lid support rod (**********)
• Trunk lid, modified without peak (Karl Gess – no longer an issue due to Mk4 body changes)
• Grommets, rubber, front bumper brackets (**********)
• Grommets, rubber, for roll hoop (McMaster-Carr)
• Rectangular Lucas taillamps – modified to allow two bulbs per side (**********)
• Recontoured body at taillamp mounting pads to match rectangular lamps and to add more "roundness" to the tail
• Lucas tail lamp and front marker lamp lenses with “Made in England” markings (ebay UK)
• Windscreen support rod and bracket (**********)
• "Beclawat" windscreen tag
• Lower windscreen support bracket - attaches to bottom of frame and to top of cowl (fabricated by me)
• Windscreen wipers - Lucas (FFR)
• Windscreen washers, bottle, and pump (Moss Motors)
• Heater (FFR) w/original style body-color defroster vents on top of front cowl and "Smiths" decals on blower motor in engine compartment
• Lucas tri-bar headlamps
• Rockguards, chrome wire, headlamps (**********)
• Halibrand-style 15" wheels with knock-off centers (FFR)
• Avon CR6ZZ tires – vintage appearing radials with tread pattern that looks like bias-ply tires
• Fox-width axles in '94 8.8 solid housing
• Soft top and side curtains (FFR old-style)
• Soft top bow support brackets under body to chassis (fabricated by me)
• Tonneau cover – black vinyl – modified for fiberglass stiffener pole in center (FFR)
• Lift-the-dot posts and side curtain ferrules with drain tubes showing on door interior
• Rolled cowl front and rear with exposed rivet heads on lower edge (Mk4 has rolled cowl, but no rivets)
• AC pedal covers (brake and clutch)
• Original-style throttle pedal on Russ Thompson pedal lever (pedal pad fabricated by me)
• Mechanical throttle linkage (see my "how to" on this forum)
• Side louvers painted body color (**********)
• Badges (Cobra) for nose and tail (**********)
• AC badge for steering wheel center
• Self-contained dual tone airhorn – European tones (Griot’s Garage)
• “Powered by Ford” badges for sides (289 style without engine size)
• Badges, AC logo for knock-off hub centers (**********)
• Wind wings with original style mounting blocks - not the clamp-on style - for use with the original style side curtains (FFR – logo removed, though)
• Sunvisors (FFR)
• Windshield side post plates and washers (**********)
• Vintage Road America water transfer decals for the windshield / wind wings / side curtains
• 1965 Road America tech sticker - reproduction from local decal maker
• Reproduction decal from early-‘60s Sebring 12 hour race for windshield
• Grab handle on passenger side cowl (**********)
• Safetywire on wheel knock-offs
• 1965 license plate (CA Shelby manufacturer)
• Cobra - Caroll Shelby Motors license plate frame
• Trunk carpeting (FFR)
• Fire extinguisher (fire system and aux. small handheld)
• Foot-well ducts with period-correct pull knobs on far outside edges of dash (non-powered flapper-baffles)
• Map reading light on passenger side of dash (MGA parts from Moss)
• Engine bay battery box with Lucas decals and fake filler caps on battery (Breeze)
• Vintage battery cell caps from fake battery topper - glued to top of standard battery
• Low-expansion foam filler for inside doors (controversial - can cause bowing of inner and outer skin - be very careful)
• Rolled door openings with exposed rivet heads on underside of roll (not sure how the Mk4 doors are finished)
• Ballistic blanket for bellhousing (Levy Racing)
• Foot dimmer switch for headlamps with rubber pad (Ford OEM part from vintage Mustang restoration supplier)
• Vintage Ford style engine bay wiring harnesses (reproduction Ford part from vintage Mustang restoration supplier)
• OEM Ford solenoid and voltage regulator (reproduction from vintage Mustang restoration supplier)
• OEM Ford 1G alternator with “Autolite” production ink stamp and OEM appearing brackets (fabricated by me)
• Oil cooler (Setrab from FFR)
• Factory-appearing placards/decals/labels (Year One, NPD, Mustangs Plus, Moss Motors, etc…)
• "FoMoCo" stamps on appropriate hoses and parts (supplied by local rubber stamp maker)
• Trunk floor storage bin (Dark Water Customs)
• Tecelamite grease gun in trunk as original cars (ebay UK)
• Spare tire and jack (OEM Ford parts, including hold-down hardware – space saver from donor car)
• Scissors jack - modified OEM Ford part from donor to work on FFR chassis
• Tool roll - period correct look, but not OEM AC or Shelby
• Rear fender spats - polished aluminum - modified by cutting top 1/3 off and recontouring (from Brian Alvarez vendor at ffcars.com)
• Splashguards inside leading edge of rear wheel wells (Dark Water Customs)
• Splashguards, front body/bumper support structure - aluminum panels to close the area to the sides of radiator (fabricated by me)
• Inner fender liners – Alex’s Custom Roadster Interiors
• Luggage rack - removable, polished stainless steel (racelandusa.com)

[skullandbones]

Hi Chris,

I'll tell you about a couple I like but haven't done (on the bucket list): 1-flip front end, the ultimate way to make engine bay access better for the roadster and 2-modular inserts for the dash whether wood, metal, or carbon fiber again for access to various misbehaving gauges and wiring issues.

I have added a mod to the driver's foot box on the left side for big foot. It's just big enough to allow your left foot to relax in it's natural position. 4 tube headers are a definite plus. My quick release steering wheel is great so I can put the stock one or the little F1 style one with very little effort. It also is good if you are having a bad day with flexibility or working in the foot box area. The third brake lights on the top curve of the roll bar hoops are a nice safety feature. Even the SUV and trucks can see these lights. Starting button reminds me that I'm in a custom built race car every time I push it! BTW: you should start a list.

WEK.

[WIS89]

Chris-

When I started here a few years ago, I too got confused by all of the potential mods and customizations that folks were doing to their Roadsters. What I did is create a build plan in an excel spreadsheet (not my idea, it was a suggestion by another builder), and I began compiling all of the things I wanted to do to my build. Any time I came across a modification that I wished to emulate, I added it to my spreadsheet, and I also placed a link to the thread that showed that modification. THis way, I could come straight to the place where that person explained that modification, in case I couldn't remember how it was done.

I also use the spreadsheet to track all my parts bought, as well as the parts I intend to buy, along with their source. For example, someone suggested a very cool mechanical throttle linkage, and provided some cool details on how to do the mod. I placed a note in the spreadsheet, a link to the thread, and then a parts list that they indicated they purchased from McMaster Carr. I have since updated that post because Mike Forte now supplies a complete linkage kit, with all necessary parts. This spreadsheet helps me stay a bit better organized, and allows me to track my expenses more completely.

This is what has helped me, but may not be right for you. I encourage you to look at a post entitled modifications for originality, and to do a search for modifications, and begin getting some ideas of those ideas that appeal to you. Searching through mods kept me busy for a very long time! Additionally, I am sure folks will chime in with their experiences as well!

Best of luck to you, and let us know how we can help.

Regards,

Steve

[Bob Cowan]

I'v done a lot of things to my car since I "finished" it so many years ago. Comfort and appearance wise, I haven't changed much. I built that just the way I wanted it. But I have made some significant functional changes. If I were to build another car, I would do these things right away, as part of the initial build.

- Rod ends on the front lower arms. I cut the bushing off and welded on some rod ends. That made a huge improvement in ride and handling.

- Mufflers. The standard FFR mufflers are not that good. They sound harsh and "blatty". As time and miles go by, they get worse. I replaced mine with bigger ones from Classic Chambered Exhaust. Dramatic improvement - less noise at lower rpm's, and a much better sound.

- CNC dual master cylinders. I would NOT do this again. Dual MC are great, and really perform well. But the CNC parts are not durable enough. I would try Wilwoods.

- Wilwood brakes. If you're going to be tracking the car - even every once in a while - spend the bux for the biggest brakes you can fit. It will be money and time saved in the long run. If it's a street car, the stock Mustang brakes are more than enough.

- Bead Rolling. Some of the aluminum panels are big enough that you can get "Oil Canning". I used an inexpensive bead roller to prevent that.

- Insulation. Sound and heat insulation will really help the car sound and feel more solid, and keep you cooler. I lined the entire interior with Lizard Skin. Then I used an underpad for the foot boxes, so your feet have a soft surface to rest on.

- Lowered trunk floor. We like to take long week ends, and do a little bit of traveling. With a lowered trunk floor, we have no trouble at all packing in the things we need.

- Assembly tools. Spend the money and get the tools you'll need and can't rent/borrow. Like alignment tools. The ability to do your own front and rear alignment is extremely valuable.

- All of the other mods I'v done are to make it faster on the track.

[Pirate]

Thanks for all the input. I did do Wilwood brakes. I also am doing a hydraulic clutch that I got from Forte with my engine and tranny package. I got the FFR stainless pipes, I heard that the packing blows out pretty quick, so I might check into those other mufflers. Again thanks for the input.

Chris

[WIS89]

If I were to build another car, I would do these things right away, as part of the initial build.

- Bead Rolling. Some of the aluminum panels are big enough that you can get "Oil Canning". I used an inexpensive bead roller to prevent that.




Hey Bob-

This is an interesting idea that I haven't heard anywhere else yet. I am curious if you have any pictures of any of the beads you completed. I am also curious how you determined which panels to do the bead work on. I can easily see the benefit to the panels' appearance, but I hadn't thought about the added strength inherent in that bead. I would like to learn some more if you have the time Sir. Thanks in advance.

Regards,

Steve

[Bob Cowan]

My initial plan was to do the larger flat panels, like the trunk floor, and foot box sides. To make them match, I did some of the smaller ones, too.

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a256/bobcowan/BareTrunksmall.jpg (http://s13.photobucket.com/user/bobcowan/media/BareTrunksmall.jpg.html)

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a256/bobcowan/Trunkleftcorner.jpg (http://s13.photobucket.com/user/bobcowan/media/Trunkleftcorner.jpg.html)

I don't have any pictures, but I also did the out side panels of the foot boxes. In retrospect, I should have done the front and inside as well, just for good looks.

[WIS89]

Thanks Bob-

Certainly gives me something to think about to be sure. I appreciate you taking the time to post!

I hope you are doing well. Thanks again.

Regards,

Steve

[2FAST4U]

I'm making extensive mods for a more original look

- fiberglass footboxes
- fiberglass trunk pan
- under car pedal box
- relocated engine forward 3 inches to be more correctly located
- moved firewall forward
- correct Lucas firewall components
- correct vintage wire wrap on engine harness
- Steward Warner mechanical gauges like on original 289 FIA cars
- replaced front "X" member with replica of original transverse leafspring tower
- non functional front transverse leafspring
- vintage looking 289 engine with correct valve covers, Weber intake, Aviaid oil pan, and "octopus" fuel manifold
- reproduction mechanical linkage with correct bellcrank on rear of cylinder head
- reproduction throttle pedal
- correct SBC Corvette radiator
- Halibrand pin drive wheels
- Goodyear Billboard tires
- modified chassis with outriggers
- Lucas tri-bar headlights
- ididit steering column with integrated turn signal
- dash support tubes
- clear lenses on front marker lights
- no interior carpet. Plain aluminum like original race cars
- correct 289 horns
- rectangular tail lights
- rivets on hood
- windshield manufacturer emblem as on original cars
- engine bay labels and stickers per OEM
- front brake cooling ducts per original race cars
- original interior leather door pulls
- original hood hinges
- original hood prop rod
- original trunk hinges
- original trunk prop rod
- original fuel filler splash guard

Tried to find original iridium tipped toggle switches but nearly impossible to find. Still trying to obtain a SW 240A fuel pump as found on original cars, but the prices are just unrealistic.