Stainless Steel Fuel Lines

[4.6 litre]

I've noticed that some Builders use stainless steel fuel lines. Aren't the fuel lines and fasteners supplied in the F5 Complete Kit adequate for the job?

Thanks for your comments.

4.6L

[DaleG]

Of course they are; most builds incorporate the FFR-supplied fuel lines.

EDIT: The stainless lines do look nice.

[2bking]

Some want to use 3/8" line and the kit has 5/16." If you are going to have to buy it, might as well get the SS and get enough so as not to have a splice connection. I ordered the 3/8" line but backed out when I found an online fuel flow calculator the indicated 5/16" line was more than adequate for supply and 1/4" for return. I ended up using the kit supplied line.

I used 3/16" SS line for the front brakes to eliminate the splices and it looks good.

[Gumball]

I used 3/8" stainless for a few reasons. 1) I wanted a one-piece hard line that looked nice, 2) I went with a carb set-up and wanted the line to terminate where I wanted without length issues, and 3) I wanted the added volume allowed by a bigger line.

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/img_4124.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/img_4124.jpg.html)

http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/img_4123.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/img_4123.jpg.html)http://i845.photobucket.com/albums/ab15/CCRsAC/img_4121.jpg (http://s845.photobucket.com/user/CCRsAC/media/img_4121.jpg.html)

[CraigS]

I haven't done SS fuel line but my car was originally built w/ SS brake lines. All I can say is, after I had to cut and flare the SS brake line, I will never use SS for either fuel or brake. It is very difficult to work.

[edwardb]

Like much (most?) of the FF supplied parts, the supplied fuel and brake lines are fine. Guys (me included) upgrade to larger fuel lines because of concern with the 5/16 lines having enough flow for higher HP builds. It's kind of a theoretical discussion, and not sure if backed up by actual experience, e.g. fuel starving in a real world situation. But SS is also nice because it obviously looks nice and since it's custom can have fewer joints. But it's a lot of work and requires the right tools. Here's my experience with it in my build thread starting with this post: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?8296-Mk4-7750-Build-Progress-Update&p=85815&viewfull=1#post85815

[Bren]

About how much does it cost to upgrade to SS?

[DaleG]

Some want to use 3/8" line and the kit has 5/16." If you are going to have to buy it, might as well get the SS and get enough so as not to have a splice connection. I ordered the 3/8" line but backed out when I found an online fuel flow calculator the indicated 5/16" line was more than adequate for supply and 1/4" for return. I ended up using the kit supplied line.

I used 3/16" SS line for the front brakes to eliminate the splices and it looks good.

That has been bugging me for awhile. Thanks for sorting that out.

[edwardb]

About how much does it cost to upgrade to SS?

For my Mk4 build, got all the parts here: http://www.inlinetube.com/ Figure out what you need and add it up. I was around $200 for SS fuel and brake lines, fittings, clamps, etc. Add to that the right tools. Otherwise don't even think about it.

[WIS89]

For my Mk4 build, got all the parts here: http://www.inlinetube.com/ Figure out what you need and add it up. I was around $200 for SS fuel and brake lines, fittings, clamps, etc. Add to that the right tools. Otherwise don't even think about it.

Edward-

I presume the tubing shipped coiled up, true? How difficult did you find getting the lines good and straight before installation? In the past, I haven't been able to avoid the small crimps, minor bends, etc. from the finished lines, and has always been a sore spot for me.

I know they make some tools specifically for that purpose, but they are truly single purpose tools, and a quality one is a bit pricey. I considered trying to fabricate something with old casters, roller blade wheels, or similar. Just curious on your experience.

Thanks as always!

Regards,

Steve

[VdubJoe]

I upgraded to 3/8 for engine needs but I went with Cunifer Copper-Nickel Alloy lines . Got it local, Advance Auto . Good price. Very easy to bend and flair and looks great when hit with a little scotch brite, Did fuel and brake lines.
Some pic's on my build link below.
Just another option.

Joe

[Avalanche325]

About how much does it cost to upgrade to SS?

The tools will cost more than the lines. You won't get away with a $30 flare tool on 3/8" stainless. It is bad enough on steel when you go to 3/8". A cheap bender won't do it either.

[edwardb]

Edward-

I presume the tubing shipped coiled up, true? How difficult did you find getting the lines good and straight before installation? In the past, I haven't been able to avoid the small crimps, minor bends, etc. from the finished lines, and has always been a sore spot for me.

I know they make some tools specifically for that purpose, but they are truly single purpose tools, and a quality one is a bit pricey. I considered trying to fabricate something with old casters, roller blade wheels, or similar. Just curious on your experience.

Thanks as always!

Regards,

Steve

I'm lucky that Inlinetube is local for me. About 20-30 minutes drive from the office, and they do counter sales in addition to their mainly internet sales. So I arranged to have all straight pieces, as long as possible and still fit into our SUV. So unfortunately I can't offer any advice on this one. I have seen various descriptions of how to get the tubing straight again, but I have no personal experience. This is from Inlinetube's website: "Shipping bends are required to ship all lines over 6 feet in length. This bend is a large-radius bend that is the same as a 5 gallon bucket. The tubing is not stressed so the bend is easily straightened to the original form. To remove the shipping bend, simply unroll the section marked between the tags on a flat surface such as a table or garage floor. Use the floor as a straight edge. Whatever gentle bend is left, straighten by hand. When the tube is straight you are done."



The tools will cost more than the lines. You won't get away with a $30 flare tool on 3/8" stainless. It is bad enough on steel when you go to 3/8". A cheap bender won't do it either.

I agree there is an investment required for SS lines. But I also don't think you can get away with a $30 flare tool on steel. Been there done that with a bunch of do-overs. The same quality tools that do good flares on SS also do a great job on steel. I did my Mk4 brakes and fuel lines in rigid stainless, and used regular bending tools plus the usual bending around sockets, etc. Works OK, just takes a little more muscle.

[2bking]

I presume the tubing shipped coiled up, true? How difficult did you find getting the lines good and straight before installation?

I used the 3/16 SS brake line from a 20' roll. I unrolled it on the shop floor and straightened it by hand using my abdomen as a sand bag-sounds stupid but works great. You will quickly get a feel for the amount of pressure to straighten the slightly curved tube. It took maybe 30 minutes to straighten the whole roll. It wasn't perfect and some of the straight sections in my lines got a little more attention if needed.

I purchased the Eastwood tool and didn't have one bad flare.

[seagull81]

If you want SS brake and fuel lines, you do not need to flare them. Use SS Swaglok fittings. They have a full line of SS fittings. They also have the port adapters to go to AN flares for braided brake lines. You probably have a Swaglok vendor near you as they are nationwide. These are industrial fittings not just a compression fitting you get at parts houses. We used them on hydrogen lines at work and they do not leak.

[WIS89]

Thanks for elaborating gentlemen!

Regards,

Steve