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donshapansky
05-02-2014, 01:26 PM
2870528706287072870828709Here are a few shots of what I had Tim Whittaker at Kootenai Customs make for me, the use of riv-nuts installed from the top of the floor makes a great spacer when the button head screws are installed from the bottom. I installed the exhaust first then installed the floor for marking from the underside, then removed the floors and installed the riv-nuts and screwed in place the heat shields. Thanks Tim for the quick turnaround! I saw this on the forum and I don't recall whose idea I used but thank-you!

donshapansky
05-02-2014, 01:35 PM
I forgot to mention that I had real difficulty with the clamps I got from Flow Master that were identical to FFR clamps, they would not tighten up to hold position. You can see in the photos I went back to when I was working on exhaust in the 60's, I took a cutting wheel and made slots at 90 degrees to the clamp allowing the muffler pipe to squeeze to the exhaust pipe. Even doing this I barely got to lock the two pipes together and not twist off the U-clamps, I had to use WD40 on the nuts to get the last bit of squeeze needed.

CHOTIS BILL
05-02-2014, 03:12 PM
I wonder if a T-type hose clamp would apply a more even clamping force around the full circumference of the pipe and hold better?

Bill Lomenick

donshapansky
05-02-2014, 10:16 PM
I had those on an Piper Aerostar 700, I had to check them often and finally replaced them all after 150 hrs. at great expense they were used at the wastegates and several other exhaust connections.