33 chassis changes

[myjones]

Here's the "some assembly required" shot of my 33
This picture shows over 40 custom parts and one stock FF piece for reference from a prior thread.

All the silver parts and a few of the still unpainted parts are unique to my hemi 33
They allow me to improve the ride for street use, correct the wheelbase to match the body
Improve traction for the 500+ HP and add a 4 point without chopping the body or trapping it
on the frame. It also supports the running boards and gives me a street-able ride height with
enough room under the running boards to pull in/out of my driveway without roadrash.
DB
Hemi33

[erlihemi]

Awesome work! Keep raising (and bending) the bar!

[myjones]

Awesome work! Keep raising (and bending) the bar!
Thanks
Have you decided which Hemi is going in yours?
I enjoyed all the pics but I missed what you ended up with.
Dale

[erlihemi]

70% chance it will be the little 291 Desoto, 20% a 330/341 Desoto, Always a 10% wild card in my builds...:)

[myjones]

All the silver parts are unique to my hemi 33
These pics show how I made the supports for the running boards
DB
Hemi33
29084290852908629087

[progmgr1]

I really love those running board supports! Looks like a simple but strong design and great fabrication work. Do you plan to bond the mesh to the running boards or ? Also, what were the materials used?
Thanks,
Keith (newbie in SoCal)

[myjones]

Do you plan to bond the mesh to the running boards or ? Also, what were the materials used?
Thanks,Keith (newbie in SoCal)

Keith
I do plan to bond it together but that has to be done last/after all the body alignment is complete. I think it would chatter at hwy speed if loose.
The design challenge is that there is only 7/8" of room/height to hide the structure and it needs to carry at least 250# 10" out.
The center support portion at the frame can't go inboard far enough to catch a second perch or you interfere with the muffs.
The cars already sit low (3.25" is the factory ground clearance under running boards) so brackets really can't hang far below the boards.
Might as well help take the shake out of the fenders at speed with it too.
I wanted it to be a bolt on design without damaging the frame. A vendor could make it simpler and it could still be effective

Overkill maybe; It doesn't have to have the extra curve at the front, or the kick-up there either. It doesn't have to catch both fenders, it doesn't have to have the mesh. It could be shorter on both ends. The hanger brackets could all be Al instead of steel since they are in tension/shear.

The one posted from Australia? was a single hoop in the middle which seemed risky based on where you step.

The tube is 1/2" schedule 80<that passed the fatboy test when clamped to a bench and extended a foot and bounced on, nothing else small enough to hide would take the load. The brackets do hang 1/4" below the tube so their bottom corners are rounded off since they are the lowest thing on the chassis between the wheels. I raised the ride height on mine so no worries there. The outboard tubes extend in far enough to catch other frame points and the middle two have those reaction plates inside to push up against under load. The hangars are made from angle iron except the back one which is flat plate. The back one is bolted to a part of the chassis that angles inward so it actually cams over on the tube when tightened so it can't rattle where the rest may need rubber
if they have any movement when tightened. Need any specific pictures just holler.
Thanks for the kind words and welcome to the madness.
Dale
Hemi33