best place to connect wire for voltage gauge?

[LuckyWinner]

where is the best place to hook up the yellow wire for the Voltage Gauge? Does one spot give you a better reading than another?

[DaleG]

I have these gauges (Speedhut): http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/factory-five-racing-electric-gauge-set/

When I was having some difficulty with wiring them, Jeff Kleiner helped-out with the following: Hope this helps.

"Jeff Kleiner’s WIRING DIRECTIONS
The Speedhut/FFR Classic gauges use 2 wire senders while the RF harness is set up for one wire so I recommend doing kind of a hybrid that will incorporate the pigtails with the black/white wires. You'll need to power up all of the gauges on their red wire by connecting them to the brown "gauge feed" wire in the harness. Also connect the black "ground" wire in the dash harness to each of the gauges' black wires. You will carry the tachometer signal from the coil on the purple "coil-tach" wire that runs all the way through in the sending units subharness. The speedo signal comes from the trans through the green and gray wires which will join the yellow/red and yellow/black wires on the gauge. Polarity is not important as it is only counting pulses. For the coolant temperature and oil pressure gauges run the long pigtail with the yellow/red and yellow/black wires to their respective senders. Once again polarity is not an issue because these are reading resistance. The voltmeter has no sender, the gauge power and ground give it all it needs. Fuel gauge connects to the light green "gas sender" wire. I recommend powering the clock from the red "radio memory" wire. That will get everything working.

Next move on to gauge lighting. The white wire from all of the gauges connects to the RF harness white "dash lights" wire. If you have the seperate dimmer module the white harness "dash lights" wire connects to the input of the dimmer; the dimmer's black ground connects to the black harness ground. From there the dimmers output snaps into the daisy chain connectors for the lighter gauge wire. It seems redundant but is this way because the needles are lighted independently from the gauge face and are not dimmed. If you do not have the dimmer module then the small white wire at the end of the snap together chain also connects to the harness "dash lights" wire, not directly to the headlight switch. By the way, before you drive yourself crazy thinking something is wrong---the hands on the clock are not lighted.

Good luck,
Jeff "

[LuckyWinner]

I have the Speed Hut gauges but my volt meter has a yellow with green striped wire that leads to my yellow wire. I would think that you would connect to the starter solenoid? not sure

[DaleG]

I have the Speed Hut gauges but my volt meter has a yellow with green striped wire that leads to my yellow wire. I would think that you would connect to the starter solenoid? not sure

Just went out and checked mine; the yellow/grn goes from the meter to the plug (yellow wire). The yellow wire goes to my "hot at all times" terminal block; should probably change it from there to the "hot in on/run" block. Can someone confirm? How much would the voltmeter draw when ignition is off? A problem? Glad you brought this up, Lucky.

[edwardb]

I can't tell you how much current the voltmeter draws. I would guess it's very low. But there's no reason to have it on a battery connection and drawing current when the car is off. Even with very minimal draw it can run the battery down. Wire it to a switched circuit, e.g. one that's on when the ignition switch is on.

[DaleG]

Well Lucky, I guess we both know what to do now. Thanks

[Jeff Kleiner]

What edwardb said and as I mentioned in the bold that Dale quoted connect it to the gauge feed.

Jeff