Coupe 65 for Australia

[Sydney Chris]

Hi .. love you work and looking forward to being able to get a few issues sorted to progress a Coupe 65 order / build as follows:

1. Are you able to supply to Coupe with the ADR required glazing, know as an "e" marking on a laminated safety windscreen, as well as the toughened glass for the doors and rear screen? (Im aware you supply the roadster with the correct glass for registration in Aus).

2. Do you have the torsion and beam test data available for sighting by an AU Automotive Engineer (as this is an ICV requirement in AUS)?

3. With the Willwood brake upgrade do you have any advice / parts to allow the fitment / tuning of ABS to suit a car of this mass?

4. I can manage the chassis changeover to suit RHD, do you have a dash template and are the pre cut panels for a RHD configuration? Also, can you supply a dash cowling to suit, which would later need to be padded?

5. Emissions standards are an issue with a Windsor motor, fitted with a throttle body EFI / ECU in trying to meet ADR 3701. The GM LS2 / LS3 motors are readily available, cheap and easily tunable to around from 280kw-350kw (500hp). I'm advised this motor is not suitable for fitment to the Coupe in its standard form. Is it just a matter of designing / fabricating new engine mounts as the motor is dimensionally similar to a Windsor 351 in any case (ie an LS2/3 should physically fit in the engine bay)?

6. The Tremec TKO500/600 box is as I understand it a close ratio 5 speed, with the 600 model rated to 600lb/ft (or 800+Nm). The T56 is an even stronger 6 speed box (700lb ft). Is there a 6 speed box suitable for around 400 - 425 bhp you could recommend without the weight and expense of the T56?

7. Can you supply ADR compliant door locks (I'd expect similar to the ones for the roadster).

With thanks

Chris

[Barrel]

Perhaps the answers to some of your questions can be found at www.componentcars.com.au

[Sydney Chris]

hi Barrel... :) thanks for the reply. I have had a few chats with Chris at Component Cars. Whats above are the outstanding issues. My namesake in WA is looking into a number of them overnight with FFR. Will look forward to updating.

[TimC]

1.Windshield is a standard Jaguar windshield (not sure of model).
Should be readily available.
4. Again, easy to make. I suggest a two piece dash and for the front get a blank sheet of aluminum and flip it over for RHD.
5. The LS engine doesn't seem too difficult.
6. I think user MMarshall just put a 6sp behind and LS. A search would probably find it.
7. To me the coupe door latches seem more secure than the Roadster.

[Sydney Chris]

Thanks Tim..

Would love to know the model Jag.. can easily source a screen here from an AU wrecker.. problem solved.

Had been in contact with Mike.. (LS1 + 6 speed) via the FF cars site. LS3 and a T56 has been given the tick, just need to move it a few inches forward.

FFR have the latches, they use them for the Cobra kits delivered to AUS.

Am just waiting to see if they can deliver a chassis and components that are required to suit Australian registration.


Cheers

Chris

[Timb]

From another thread on this forum

1986 Jag XJS windshield
Jaguar XJ-S 2D SED
FW00348 GTNSFV

[afaa]

Hi Sydney Chris,

There's a few FF Daytonas floating around Australia. Have a look on Club Cobra (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/australian-cobra-club/)

The ABS units that have been installed on kit cars tend to be off utes as they are a three channel unit and easier to install. Daytona Sportscars use the same setup on their factory cars albeit fine tuned.

Chris at CC should be able to advise you on ADR requirements. I think FF used to supply the dash/firewall aluminum panels unfolded so the builder could modify as required.

There's an engineer up near the Qld border who did the ADR certification for Warwick Harrison on a customer FF Daytona. Having a senior moment and can't recall what his name is.

Talk to Mal Wood in Brisbane about gearboxes. Aussie T56 boxes come with factory aluminium bellhousings and concentric slaves cylinders compared to the US guys who seem to prefer Quick Time housings and the standard clutch cable setup. I think the TR6060 and T56 Magnum gearboxes have better ratios than the T56 which has a double overdrive.

An LS3 needs to be installed further forward as its much lighter than the 302. Gearbox used will affect weight distribution too.

Good luck with the project. You'll get good advice from the guys on both sides of the Pacific.

Cheers

[Sydney Chris]

thanks Tim.. solves a couple of issues... :) Any idea about the rear screen. I understand there is a laminated glass option.. are you aware where its originally from..? Cheers.. Chris

[Sydney Chris]

noted.. thanks.. will follow up. Re the ABS set up.. with three channel, do you know if it does it do away with the diff sensor..? Cheers.. Chris

[afaa]

Hi Chris,

Sorry can't advise about that.

BTW Ray Cross was the engineer for Warwick Harrison's Daytonas.

Cheers

[Timb]

Rear screen is a custom unit made for FFR. All rear screens are laminated glass now no plexi option that I am aware of

[Sydney Chris]

Well I have progressed.. in the planning at least.. :) Man space cleared and fitted out, with drill press and hoist now as well. (photo bucket - http://s1310.photobucket.com/user/cboys64/library/Coupe%2065%20Build?sort=2&page=1 )


My Coupe has landed and is clearing customs at the mo.. :) Ordered with IRS, took the Levy Racing brake upgrade, am looking at some adjustable shocks, have an LS3 motor, dyno tuned to just shy of 600bph, Tremec T6060, air con, ABS, sat nav, reversing camera, Motec PDM and switch panel as well as some Russ Thompson pontoon panels. Am looking at a Ruby Red with chromed highlights and am yet to finalise the exhaust options (side or the expensive and torturous rear exit path, (including cutting the chassis rails), until the engine and transmission are fitted up. Have a set of Pigani LED tail lights to bypass the issues with ADR regs and side / angle of view, which I will mount vertical and slightly offset from the rear face.

I have some details on the limited chassis mods which are required to meet local regs as well as the bump steer geometry sorted.

Fingers crossed I may be cracking the crate this arvo.

Best to all... :)

Cheers

Chris

[Timb]

Beautiful job on the garage addition

[Tom Mauldin]

Great transformation! Looking forward to seeing updates on your build!

[Sydney Chris]

thanks guys.. Tom.. your handy work with a torch is v neat.. :)

[Tom Mauldin]

Thanks Chris!

[Sydney Chris]

Well after 8 weeks on a boat and only four days to clear customs here, the AU freight forwarders have advised delivery will now be Monday, as opposed to Friday week ago... bless their (sleepy) cotton socks.. ! Am waiting on a few components to arrive, although I feel like I have half the car here already...:) Wipers, brakes, master cylinder, booster, ABS controller, engine, diff center, rear suspension, lights, electrical components, insulation... have been looking forward to this day since I was about 10 years old.. playing with lawn mower motors on home made billy karts.

Will look forward to posting updates.

Best to all.

Chris.. :)

[wallace18]

We look forward to your posts as well.

[Sydney Chris]

My Coupe (re)build has started..

- New engine mounts, moved about 1" forward with the T6060 gear box
- Swap out steering rack and mounts
- New RHD pedal, brake and steering shaft bracketry
- Add 50mm sq down tubes from the A pillars
- Re-position rear gearbox mount
- Replicate footwell curved tube and add vertical reinforcing plate

Pics attached... one week at a time... :)

Cheers

[Sydney Chris]

Extended wheelbase....

Am wondering as I cut and welded my way quiet extensively through my chassis (in part to improve its rigidity but mostly to set up the components I want to fit) about an extended wheelbase version.

The uprights which come from the side rails to the 4" x 2" cross member behind the seat mounting position are unfortunately upright, rather than angled back at around 20 degrees, which would make use of the space between the current cross rail and the suspension mounts, for a reclined seating position.

Am considering adding two inches from just behind the rear chassis rail cross tube, which would not impact any of the roll bar, wheel arch or suspension mounts.

Clearly the roof, sills and doors would need to be extended accordingly, which arent a great issue.. getting the Coupe onto a jig and a rotisserie seems to be the biggest concern.

Any thoughts or experiences with other members in this mod.. impacts on handling from a change of this magnitude to the wheelbase / track ratio..?

Cheers

Chris

[Sydney Chris]

Had a mail from FF re extending the wheelbase. The contact I have was not aware of it being done before and unable to confirm the extent of the impact on handling. A couple of builders I spoke to here thought two inches would not make a big difference, although suspension and steering geometry as well as spring rates would need to be re-tuned.

Cheers.. :)

Chris

[Gordon Levy]

I remember there was someone that extended the car around 5" right in the middle for a larger pass compartment. I will see of I can dig up the post somewhere.

[Sydney Chris]

cheers Gordon.. will look forward to your advice... :)

EDIT ...

Have done a bit more research while I wait for engine mounts to be able to continue with the bulk of the chassis welding.

A Coupe 65 has a wheelbase to track ratio of 1.624 : 1, with an apparent 'ideal' ratio of 1.618.

A longer wheelbase (higher track ratio) adds to straight line stability and braking (all other factors being equal), but will negatively impact the cars ability to change direction, ie.. understeer.. ! (and dont we all have horror stories about understeer from our youth)..!!!!

The recommended direction for any change to the set up for the Coupe would, based on the information I have seen to date (across a couple of engineering, F1 and sports car forums) be to increase in front track from 58.5" to 58.7" to give it the 'ideal' track ratio.

In short its about as close to right as you can reasonably get in its 'as built' configuration and could benefit from slightly wider rubber.. :)

Cheers

Chris

[Sydney Chris]

Still no engine mounts... so the welding remains on hold unfortunately.

Am moving forward with the project known as THE DOORS..!

I was looking to get PS foam or the green florist foam to make the shape I wanted for the door trims (as I was looking to fit sliding glass - ie up down), exterior handles and even power the windows with an arm rest.

I've not used fiberglass in this way before. I have seen posts where some people use the foam as the template and advise they lay the glass over it then dissolve the foam out with a thinner.

For those that have made fiberglass sections, is this an appropriate method..?

With thanks

Chris

[Sydney Chris]

FFFFinally.. one engine mount arrived.. lol.. jig based welding completed for the moment.. still thinking about extending the wheelbase.. will try a couple more seats before a make a call on that one.

Shipped my Coupe in three parts back to my place. The body was transported on the timber buck and the hood on the body.

Finishing the welding of the reinforcing plates in the front and rear cross members as well as capping the down tube that meets the chassis rail at the rear bulkhead.

Still need to find a seat that fits well.. not proving as easy as it is for you guys in the US, with local compliance requirements and planning to get the steering fitted up and welded during the remainder of this week.

Plenty of pics on photobucket of the RHD conversion (a totally new pedal box), new gearbox mount, custom housing for the steering column which is height and reach adjustable and the engine mounts.. which moved 3+ inches forward, although the motor itself is only about 1/2 inch forward of the original position with a custom set of engine block mounts in 6mm plate to make the exhaust routing easier.

Cheers

Chris

[Sydney Chris]

Added the "Levy" 50mm down tubes... my calcs on them show the sheer stress is reduced by 4x over the 25mm that comes stock, with the rotational stiffness around 10x better (although its a simple calc on just that section). For those that spotted the notching on the 50mm tube adjacent the master cylinder location (to allow it to clear the hood).. its capped with 4mm plate.. am not happy with having to do it.. but the strength wont be diminished by anything significant.

Used the same 50mm x 1.6 wall RHS for the side impact rails across the cabin area.

Also finished off the bracket for the Jag parking (E brake) actuator, added connecting plates inside the firewall and rear bulkhead cross rails to join the cabin tubes to the uprights and then capped them.. makes these sections significantly stronger as it spreads the load from the top plate of the bar, effectively transferring the load back to the main chassis rail.

Newbie question re painting the chassis... I was looking to paint it in the finished colour of the car. At this stage, I want to finish the welding, get the chassis stripped and tripple coated in a urethane system, then fit / cut up all of the panels in the engine bay.. remove them, then get it painted to avoid touch up and scratches all over the place.

Any thoughts on this as a process... ?

With thanks

Chris

[Sydney Chris]

Welding done.. Wish I was better at it... is not as neat as I would like but it should come up ok. MIG to gasless MIG is a world of difference with weld quality, heat and spatter.

Narrowed the transmission tunnel, reinforced and enlarged the footwells added brackets for the seat mounts, 3 point seat belts and the E brake actuator motor. Also put a larger drop floor section in the boot which will have a removable lid. Will relocate the battery to the space between the rear cabin cross member and the suspension mounts. Just need to hand finish the grinding and go around the chassis to remove the rest of the welding slag under the powder coat.

Note sure why FFR dont increase the usable cabin space by several inches by slanting the rear box section uprights towards the rear of the car and connecting the cross rail and overhead tubes slightly aft of their current position. Is a messy mod after the fact..

Going to fit the seats before deciding on extending the chassis... will add over $10K to the build with the new certifications and tests required for road use here as well as a bit of steering and suspension geometry work.

Cheers

Chris

[Sydney Chris]

hmmmm... well the welding is not quiet done. I left some plans with a component manufacturer... he decided there was another way to do half the job, which he would share after I got there to pick up.. ! Gotta roll with it I guess.. :).

Anyhow.. the end result will be better, just cutting and rebuilding parts of the pedal box to fit the Wilwood pedals in, then re-aligning the master cylinders. Will add some pics when its done... :).

Took the IRS components out of the box to test fit with the chassis mods... was disappointed to see so much welding spatter that had been dutifully powder coated over. More grinding back and refinishing. Will all be good in the end.. just gotta remember to enjoy the journey.. :).

Cheers

Chris

[CraigS]

I realize I am a little late here but I don't think lengthening the car is a good idea. Obviously anything can be done given skill and $ but is it worth it? My experience is w/ my roadster w/ an APR hardtop which makes getting in and out very similar to the coupe. A couple of thoughts. 1-Concentrate on using the space that is already there. Think aluminum seat like a kirkey, but modified. A seat back only needs to be about 5/8 inch thick. 1/8 aluminum and 1/2 inch cover and padding is all you need, if it is shaped correctly. My Ultrashield has been modified to allow much easier entry and exit. Stage one where I lowered the outside by simply cutting and bending over the top 1.25 inches or so.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y91/craig-s/Ultrashield.jpg
Stage 2 as my neck started getting stiffer due to being older I needed to sit lower as I work my head under the roof. So I cut more out near the seat belt pass through opening so my left thigh is lower as I swing my self in the seat.
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y91/craig-s/IMG_20140415_085532_752_zpsfb0ab40f.jpg
2- there are a lot of threads on getting more footroom in a roadster some of which might apply to the coupe.
3- How about modifying the top of the door so it extends into the roof a few inches. this would give more headroom on entry/exit. think 65 Corvette coupe. I know there is a chassis tube there but it could easily be moved up and toward the center of the car.
4- Quick release steering wheel helps too. I haven't looked at the coupe frame in the steering column area but some roadster guys have raised the steering column to raise the wheel a little. Overall I think you can massage here and there to get better room w/o needing to re-engineer the whole chassis.

[Sydney Chris]

thanks Craig..

The issue I have is that the seats also need to have an ADR compliance (Aussie Design rules) to be enable registration for road use. I have a set of Kirkeys, but they have no approval. I have fitted a height and reach adjustable column and reduced the width of the transmission tunnel by half an inch or so. Will look at the door opening as you suggest.. :) The chassis is currently getting stripped and recoated with expoy and urethane.

[CraigS]

Would you be able to use the approved seats to get through the process and then swap them? No real need to answer this.

[Sydney Chris]

Hey Craig... its an option... although if the fun police look over it then I'd need to revert. Didnt want two sets of holes in the floor and to have to waste the cash on a 'spare' set of seats.... :)

[Sydney Chris]

A few set backs, lots of running around and reasonable progress for week 1.

Installed the pumpkin and one side of the IRS. One lower wishbone had a bit of weld slag in the thread. It caught when I was screwing in the eye bolt and then stripped a few threads on the way out. Am having a new insert made up and welded in place.

Steering rack, column, brake master cylinder and booster as well as the pedals installed, along with the front suspension and front brakes. Did a rough wheel alignment with two straight edges.. set at 2mm toe out and checked for bump steer.

Re the bump steer I got 0.45 degrees increase in toe out over 65mm (full shock travel). Is this a good result..?

Also managed to get the passenger side footwell cut up and installed in 3mm plate (1/8th thick). Will cover in heat shield inside and out as well as sheet in stainless once done. Am progressing on the drivers side with 3mm as well. Am bonding these panels with automotive panel adhesive and fixing at 2 inch intervals.

All of the remaining cabin panels have been sprayed with a rubberised coating and will be lined with dynamat before the carpet.

Cheers

Chris

[Sydney Chris]

Progressing.. done most things a couple of times now, from fuel to brake lines, as well as attempting to fit the engine, only to find there was insufficient clearance to the drivers side footwell to get the rear most plug out. Rather than bash it into place, I stripped and cut out the offending section and am rebuilding it this week.

Have the front and rear suspension in, fuel tank, cabin floor and walls, MC / booster and ABS controller mounted as well.

Look forward to any thoughts or comments.. :)

Cheers

Chris

[Sydney Chris]

Fitted the engine today after a few mods to the harness.. will be progress, if it stay in.. :)

Cheers

Chris

[Sydney Chris]

Well I am still envious of those that assemble these things as a LHD car.. :)

At two months from the start of 'assembly' the engine and transmission looks like it will stay in.. Brake lines, booster and ABS complete, front and rear suspension fitted, fuel system done, bar a couple of fittings to connect the return line and the hard lines to the braided hose. Most of the cockpit sheet metal is complete.. will be making a custom dash but the footwells and tunnel are done in 3mm AL. AC evaporator fitted, will need to make up a new firewall and box above the drivers side.

Went to fit the radiator shroud yesterday, after carefully polishing and sealing with Glisten only to find the sides didnt line up. Ended up taking them off, making new ones after getting to top of the duct leveled and aligned to within 1/8th then polishing and sealing once more.. . At least it was a far quicker exercise second time (EDIT.. or third) around.. lol

The schematic for the electrics is sorted, am completely dependent on a mate for this one to at least get it going. Am using a Motec PDM, which is a rather cool piece of kit, hooked up to a 15 button key pad. Has outputs which have programmable current limits and logical dependencies, will eliminate a lot of relays and wiring.

200 hrs to 'assemble'.. hmmm.. reckon I'm about 450 at the mo... not that its an issue.. Its coming together as I want it.. and its keeping me sane.. rather than driving me crazy..

Best to all..

Chris

[Jacob McCrea]

The left hand drive looks like quite an accomplishment! Between that, the ABS and the GM engine you are certainly in league with those of us who "color outside the lines" with these things. Keep up the good work and happy new year.

[Sydney Chris]

thanks Jacob,

I'd just spent 20 mins running through your build thread.. :) Fantastic work.. :)

I had taken a more subtle approach to chassis reinforcement, as I had a track day / GT build the target outcome. I added internal joining plates and end plates on all of the cross rails, gussets around the rear of the roll cage, a rear impact bar and the 50mm down tubes from the front bulkhead as well as for the side impact bars. Beyond that the 3mm AL sheeting was glued and riveted for crumple protection around the new footwell cages as well as added to the floor. This also gives some mass for sound proofing, with dynamat on top.. :)

[Sydney Chris]

Latest work on the front end. AC condenser fitted, radiator sheet metal trimmed and reinforced.

[Sydney Chris]

No much visible progress over the past few weeks... AC evap mounted, installing the power steering, refrig and heater hoses tomorrow. Fuel lines finished, brakes are holding fluid.. !

Fiddling with dash sheetmetal at the mo and gauge layout along with the AC, pic of the Mk1 dash attached.. am onto Mk3..

Cheers

Chris

[loeffler1]

Geez, somethings wrong with your photo, steering wheel is on the wrong side!! LOL

[Sydney Chris]

.. and its taken a bit of work to keep it there Bill.. :)

[Sydney Chris]

Still fitting off components..

Heater done, power steering plumbed in, ordered more radiator hose after being advised that an LS3 runs from the inlet of the water pump to the top of the radiator (highest point). Trying to borrow a hose clamp tool for the air con fittings.. most of the hoses are cut and fitted and the firewall fittings have been installed (AN type all round).

Made a much more decent clamp for the receiver drier (2.5mm plate steel), wrapped it in a rubber PVC pipe joiner sleeve and fixed the lot with SS worm drive clamps.

Didn't make my goal of getting the engine started in Jan.. Feb may be a possibility.. electrics are nowhere at the moment.


Radiator floor and side plates fitted.. although any mention in the build manual would have been helpful..! Added a 3mm plate to the floor and joined it to the previously reinforced angle under the radiator, as well as fitting a center stay. Should be ok at 100mph.. :)

One day at a time.. :)

Cheers

Chris

[Sydney Chris]

Getting more serious with the dash now the AC is mostly sorted.

Have ordered a few 5mm LED's to replace the ridiculously flimsy wires that hang out of the conventional bulbs on the AC slide control. Will use them for the dash warning lights as well after I make some bezels out of ABS plastic. Have a single DIN radio / GPS to fit under the cross brace and AC vents / controls over the top.

Settled on the treatment I am going to use for the LED tail lights I have as well.. is a Corvette / Ferrari style semi recessed bucket fitting.

Cheers

Chris

[RonSchofield]

Still no engine mounts... so the welding remains on hold unfortunately.

Am moving forward with the project known as THE DOORS..!

I was looking to get PS foam or the green florist foam to make the shape I wanted for the door trims (as I was looking to fit sliding glass - ie up down), exterior handles and even power the windows with an arm rest.

I've not used fiberglass in this way before. I have seen posts where some people use the foam as the template and advise they lay the glass over it then dissolve the foam out with a thinner.

For those that have made fiberglass sections, is this an appropriate method..?

With thanks

Chris

I have lots of information on my blog for custom fiberglass.

Here are a couple of pictures of my interior.

39005
39006

[Sydney Chris]

Is beautiful.. :) thanks.. will give it a very close review.. :)

Chris

[Sydney Chris]

Build update after a frustrating few months.. :)

Had a mate that had done a lot of the planning, but was not as confident on the implementation for the electrics, which included a Motec PDM, replacing the fuse panel. Have done what I can over the last 8 weeks, whilst fiddling with a range of other mechanical bits before finally calling in an expert to get it tied together and connected correctly.. :)

Was getting to pre gokarting checks, when I found I couldnt actually get the clutch pedal to actuate once it was fully bled. Turns out that the engine builder didnt check the crush on the thrust washer for the hydraulic SS on the TR6060 gearbox. Have a second set of spacers which are due tomorrow to get the 14- 17mmm of preload required (to stop the slave cylinder piston popping out and jamming). After which I will be able to reinstall the engine and gearbox, fingers crossed, bleed the clutch, reconnect the wiring and install the dash, then the seats.. ! Fair to say its been a fairly significant setback to the build schedule, but as we say down under.. things sometimes happen.. !! (or other abbreviations which tend to be a little more descriptive.. lol).

Best to all.. :)

Cheers

Chris

[John Dol]

Keep at it Chris! I'm still working on my dash finalizing plumbing for the AC ducts. Seems never ending sometimes!

John

[Barrel]

Chris. I have sent you a PM.

[Sydney Chris]

thanks John and Neil.. :)

Am keeping at it.. is such a shame to go so far backwards at times.

John... I have a 3D printer (a makerbot 2x) if you needed any tricky bits printed. I made a couple of reducers for the vents so I could run a smaller duct size to multiple outlets, as well as 60 - 50mm T pieces... just send me the design in .stl format or PM if interested and I can send the files I have to check if they are of any use.

Cheers

Chris

[Sydney Chris]

The plot still thickens on this one.. !!

Decided to get rid of the Centreforce clutch as they are apparently heavy and very noisy. Got the GM standard clutch and pressure plate to match the LS3 / TR 6060 combination, but as per the included pic the pressure plate wont compress all the way to meet the flywheel.

Is it possible I could need to swap the flywheel over as well..?

With thanks

Chris

[John Dol]

Chris,

Now that is tempting, but I think it will be really hard to measure all that I need so that it fits.:(
Thanks for he offer though.

John

[Sydney Chris]

After several months of clutch, bell housing, master cylinder and CSS preload issues I am picking up where I left off in Jan... (2015..!!).

Engine and gearbox back in, new gearbox mount fabricated, moving the holes 15mm forward to stop the lower half of the bracket hitting the back of the gearbox casing (cudos to the 'professional' I commissioned to set these things up correctly, this was the last thing he touched and the last one requiring reworking to make it actually correct..!).

Fitted an e-stopp park brake controller this evening, welded a small bracket to the transmission tunnel with the cables due to be ready in the next day or so.. :).

Need to figure out why I was modifying the AC duct next.. ! then run the electrical looms and refit the dash panels.

Best to all .. :)

Cheers

Chris

[Sydney Chris]

Making tangible progress... drivetrain locked down, for hopefully the last time, drive shaft in and back to prepping for gokart. Brakes and clutch finished off, park brake controller and cables installed, electrical works next week.. :).

Went to check the IRS set up.

The FFR manual advises the rear suspension width, measured according to the included pic between the top hats, (with the control arms at ride height) of 59.00" (or 1498mm).

Included pics of the Willwood brake hardware I have and a second drawing of the dimensions they currently stand.

The control arms were set up as per the manual, with the eyelet fully inserted then wound out 4 turns.

Am a little perplexed (and will admit to being a simple lad at times) as to how the top hat to top hat dimensions can be so close to the required width and the body apparently overhangs the 10.5" x 17" Hallibrand wheels by so much (an additional two inches per side). Even if the sills pull in when mounted on the chassis the wheel arches wont come in that much..?

Is it correct to assume that the 59.1" I currently have with the Willwood set up (assuming they are equivalent width to the FFR brakes) requires adjustment to the recommended 59.00" when measuring from top hat to top hat..? and if so is 0.1" a significant enough difference to need to make any further adjustments..?

I also had a reply to advise there was a tech bulletin re the IRS set up, questioning whether 59" was in fact the target measurement. Appreciate any info that's out there... :)

Cheers from down under.. :)

Chris

[afaa]

[QUOTE=Sydney Chris;203036]Making tangible progress... drivetrain locked down, for hopefully the last time, drive shaft in and back to prepping for gokart. Brakes and clutch finished off, park brake controller and cables installed, electrical works next week.. :).

Went to check the IRS set up............]

Hi Chris,

Do you have wheels with the correct offset?

We went to a great deal of trouble to work with Bob from Vintage Wheels when my roadster was being built to ensure clearances were correctly. I have custom aluminium rear hubs that use the Commodore axle and internal parking brake mechanism coupled with AP 4 pot calipers so it all had to fit perfectly.

43280

[Sydney Chris]

Hi Afaa,

Nice set up.. :) thanks for the pic.. :)

The wheels are the FFR supplied Hallibrand replicas. So I assume so.

I did get a reply from FFR overnight. 59.1" is ok for the track width. A spacer of max 1" is recommended and a 335 series rear can fit under the guard on a 10.5" rim.

Cheers

Chris

[afaa]

Hi Chris,

My rears are Vintage Halibrand knock offs 17 x 10.5 with a 5.00 backspace. Used 315/35/17 Sumitomo HTZR tyres, a little less room to play with than the Daytona I reckon. Wasn't in country at the time but think the guys made a couple of iterations of the hubs to get it all correct.

[Sydney Chris]

Been a while since Ive posted, delays seems to have been the order of the day for most of this year, but have finally made some steady progress.

Managed to get the MoTeC CAN bus working after a couple of weeks, now have the right configuration loaded into the PDM and tested most of the circuits / devices. Went to turn the starter over and found the fuel pump (Bosch 044) was tripping the 10A circuit it was on. At least with the PDM Manager software connected you can watch it go live, build up current then trip and reset based on the logic configuration, without blowing conventional fuses.

Took delivery of the front tyres (Kumoh K36) last week and had them fitted. Rears (315/35) arrived today. Am using them as bar stools for the moment.. ! is a lot of rubber.. :).

Dropped the body on and loaded the car onto a trailer to get the 'registration' exhaust measured and fitted up. Also have the FFR side pipes in hand for track runs.. :).

Cheers.. :)

Chris

[wallace18]

Looking good! I really like all the graffiti on the foot box. LOL. :):)

[Sydney Chris]

My daughter likes to draw as she talks to her daddy.. :) Haven't had the heart to tell her it will get covered with insulation shortly.. :(

[Sydney Chris]

Made some progress with the exhaust and wiring in the past couple of weeks.

Have a 'rego' exhaust made up and fitted, using two mufflers back to back and 1.5" pipe that exits out the rear of the car. These are fed from some nicely made headers into a cat, which to meet emissions (due to size), is inside the engine bay.

Started cutting out the bonnet for lights and vents. Had a set of slightly wider gill style fender vents made up which Im happy with.. :)

Bonnet sanded down, ready for filler.. as well as pre cut the double weave matting to reinforce it and seal in the additional foam to protect the wheel arches.

Should get the car back from the sparkie next week.. need to do a 4 wheel alignment, then some gokart testing..! finally.. :)

Cheers

Chris45345453464534745348

[Sydney Chris]

Had a decent day with sorting the electrical issues created by the overwhelming ignorance, incompetence or complete apathy of a northern Sydney Kobra builder.. not only was there a number of wiring faults, that he specifically introduced into a clean harness, the ancillaries were incorrect for the motor type, the tune was from a mafless 6L motor (L98), rather than an LS3 with a MAF as the factory runs, one of the plugs for the ECU was wired and then installed backwards.. ! Yes .. it is staggering.. well its staggering if you knew how everything he touched he did a half baked, inaccurate and totally flawed job on.

Fingers crossed this is the last of his stuff ups, can get the fuel pumps rewired to a higher amper breaker tomorrow and see if it will hold fuel pressure and run.

Cheers

Chris

[Sydney Chris]

After a couple of weeks the car is running. One minor oil lead and a split radiator hose later and we seem to be holding most of the various fluids.. :). I had a double row timing chain fitted when I did the cam and valves (LS3 motor), but now have the issue that the cam sensor is not picking up the correct number of pulses.. it appears its one pulse per revolution, not the two that would be present with the standard cam sprocket. Look forward to any thoughts or advice on resolving this one.. :)

With thanks

Chris

[Sydney Chris]

New timing gear now installed.. you pay an engine builder and they put in the wrong parts.. less than unimpressed. The Chev / Holden LSIII V8 has 4 pulses per revolution.. two long, two short... was a pleasant 5 - 6 hours pulling the motor down and replacing these parts.. is all running now.. Air Con commissioned today.. air flow and balancing needs to be attended to as well as finalising the commissioning of the electrics before a wheel alignment and I suspect a short spin around the block.. :)

[wallace18]

Sorry to hear about your engine problems. I do not trust anyone but myself on those things. I am fortunate to be able to do them myself. Still I really like how your coupe is coming along. I wish you the best on your first ride.

[Sydney Chris]

thanks Wallace.. apparently the cam that was installed is pulling a very low manifold pressure, leading to a fairly dirty exhaust at idle, which will significantly impact the emissions tests required for rego in AUS. I diligently sold my original cam for a few dollars a year of more back.. now need to buy a replacement.. will get there in the end.. is just a question of how long that will be .. :)

[Sydney Chris]

Long time between updates... :( sorry to anyone that may have been remotely interested.. !

It's been what the American Pickers would call 'smalls' for several months now, a bracket, fitting, wire, rivet, trim etc. The engine bay is nearly done, with the exception of a heat shield for the steering column and the washer bottle for the windscreen. Dash, about 70% there.. has been fabricated and fitted and removed for the moment awaiting the final covering. Pedal box is good, wiring is done up to the point of connection for the head and tail lights and have roughed up some inner guards for the rear wheels as well as fitted the splash guards for the fronts.

Biggest news has been the decision to 'move forward in a different direction' as opposed to going backwards, again.. !!

The those that followed Tom Maudlin's Coupe post, Ive taken his lead and dropped the floor on both sides. Pics included of the floor paneling cut away.. sigh !! and the main rail nicked ready for cutting. Will be replacing the 4" main rail with 6" x 2" RHS in 5mm wall (a bit less than 1/4"). The stress calcs show its around 10% weaker than the original rail, but significantly stronger that scalloping the rail and adding a cover piece. Will also be adding a section for the side rail to the chassis upright at the rear of the passenger cell and a couple of uprights for side impact and torsional rigidity.

More pics to follow in a few weeks after the fab and welding is completed.

Cheers

Chris

[Sydney Chris]

Floor mods well progressed now. Have essentially build or connected a space frame style structure around the now removed chassis rails in the cabin area.

Anecdotally the structure is significantly stronger than the original design, as I was lifting the car off the jacks at the end of the weekend there was no discernible deflection across the chassis when lifted from any corner.

Look forward to any thoughts or feedback. :)

Chris

[Hankl]

Really? Metric? HaHa! Good Work!

Hank

[Sydney Chris]

steering wheel on the wrong side as well Hank.. :) just thought I'd be consistent.. :) lol

PS.. still looking for a suitable straight jacket to assist with the build process.. !

[Jacob McCrea]

Looks great, and is consistent with our tradition of modifying virtually everything!

[Sydney Chris]

Cheers Jacob.. :) the only question is how many times to modify before we get drive it.. :)

[Sydney Chris]

Brakes have been a charm since day 1 with this build.. the rather pricey Willwoods needed to be stripped down after finding swarf in the piston chamber of one, the hoses remade to meet the AU standards as well as the caliper bodies retapped to take a UNC thread (7/16 - 20).

After the BA Falcon booster (10" dia) and MC, which were matched to the BA ABS controller could not be fitted under the bonnet I went to a 7" diaphragm hot rod style booster and MC set up, only to find, in short, the thing was @#(*&@(#*&@(* !!@! useless.

Third times a charm... XA Falcon booster, 8" dia which fits, with a few mm clearance, modified to OE spec to be double diaphragm / 1400psi output, mated via a 3D printed adapter plate (draft version shown in yellow) to an XC Cobra master cylinder with a 1" bore, (which was ironically the car I was initially looking to build). Res. capacity exceeds the piston fluid capacity across their full travel, is ADR complaint, sits around 25mm lower than the BA equivalent and is a dual port configuration, matching the input ports on the ABS controller.

Getting a longer booster pushrod made up in the next day or two (as I didnt have any hardened steel dowel) to compensate for the adapter plate and we will see how it goes.

A shout out to Tim and the team at Warringah Brake and Clutch for their patience, advice and perseverance. You could do a lot worse than give them a yell if you are in Sydney or need parts shipped...

Cheers

Chris