best oil and filter for 351w

[LuckyWinner]

whats the best oil and filter for a 351w? should I go with Synthetic? what kind of filter (make and part number) Thanks for any help

[DaleG]

What does Ford specify? They are the ones that want to protect their warranty, no? Just a thought.

[Boz1911]

If it's a crate engine I'd go with what the manufacturer recommends if not the choices and suggestions are endless. Me, I use premium Wix filters and Mobil One.

[OVCobra]

This is another thread that will generate many different responses; as Boz1911, if you have a new crate engine follow the supplier's recommendation for oil type, brand is going to be personal choice. Regardless, a synthetic version of the specified grade is, IMO, your best bet as they are much more resistant to high temperature operation and flow more easily during start-up, regardless of temperature. IF you have a flat tappet camshaft, ensure that you are using an oil that has elevated levels of zinc anti-wear additive, modern oils have reduced levels to reduce the tendency to affect catalytic converters. Most oil manufacturers will offer such grades but you need to look.

With respect to filters, there was some problems with FRAM filters...it was noted on the forum at the beginning I recall. Once again there will be many opinions but just make sure you use a premium filter such as supplied by K&N, Ford Racing, Mobil 1, Royal Purple etc.

Dave

[edwardb]

Agree with comments made -- follow the break-in instructions provided with your engine. Most will recommend using regular dino oil at the beginning, and then switching to synthetic after several oil changes. Since most of us don't put tons of miles on our cars (compared to DD's) and change the oil more frequently, lot of debate about whether synthetics are really any benefit. But do what you're comfortable with. But usually don't start with synthetic if you're going to use it. Agree with comments to stay away from Fram filters of any kind. I've settled in to using good old Ford FL1A's. By all accounts they're still a very good filter, and usually can get them pretty reasonably at Wally World or similar.

[VdubJoe]

Here's a good site to read. http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/
Especially the oil filter section. Dino for break-in. I use Joe Gibbs break-in oil. Then its your pref. Syn will withstand more heat and can run a lighter viscosity if your clearances are right for it.

A lot of good reading .
And this could be a long thread.

Joe

[LuckyWinner]

thanks for all the info guys. My engine has already been broken in. I bought it from a Army buddy, so I'm thinking of going synthetic. Anyone else want to put their two cents in???

[QSL]

These are what I use. They make the Wix Racing ones look whimpy http://fordracingparts123.com/engine-parts/oil-pumps-pans/case-of-12-cm-6731-fl1a-m-6731-fl1a/?gclid=CIC0yvD97L0CFUFrfgodrDcApg

[Bob Cowan]

The best commonly available filters are Purolater Pro-1 and Motorcraft. The worst seems to be Fram. The price difference between the best and the worst is so small, that's it's not even worth talking about.

Considering where you live, a 0W-30 or 0W-40 would be an excellent choice. Good lubrication on a cold morning, but enough viscosity to maintain pressure without strain.

There's only two valuable reasons to use synthetic oil:
1. Better heat management. Oil is heated by RPM. Unless you're racing, that's not a big deal.
2. Extended drain interval. Oil should be changed every spring. If you drive more that 7-8K miles a year, then the synthetic might make sense to you, with decreased maintenance intervals.

There are no magical properties to a synthetic oil. Unless you need one of the above, don't waste your money.

A true synthetic oil starts with a man made PAO base stock. No dino oil involved. There are only 4 true synthetic oils on the market: Royal Purple, Redline, Amsoil, and Schaffer. Everything else starts with a dino base stock, and refined from there. They're allowed to call it a synthetic if it meets certain performance characteristics. A little trick of marketing cooked up by salesman, lawyers, and the FTC.

That doesn't mean that oils like M1 or Pennzoil synthetic are bad oils. They perform just fine for most people. But they are expensive, and that - IMO - makes them a bad value. UOA shows that the semi-synthetics clearly do not perform as well as a true synthetic when the going gets rough.

I use RP in the Cobra, because I race it and oil temps around 240-250* are common. I also use it in the Harley because it is air cooled. But everything else gets standard dino oil. I use UOA's to support those decision. Science and facts, not guesses and rumors.

[VdubJoe]

I agree with Bob totally. Also great resource is to have an oil analysis done. I do it on all my stuff. Cheap and a lot of info. I run Rotella syn diesel in my Bike and it works great. Has a higher zinc content and a great price.


I use http://www.blackstone-labs.com/what-is-oil-analysis.php


Joe