BillJr212 - WRX 818-S build thread

[billjr212]

Nothing much to post yet, but after getting good initial (and ongoing interest) from potential buyers for my Roadster and positive initial results in reviving my donor car, I figured I would get this thread started.

Here was my initial post in the Donor discussions thread.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13656-Ooops!-Won-my-donor-today

Here is what it looks like now - it's alive (sort of). Won't hold idle (bent valves probably the culprit?) but will hold about 3k rpm no problem and no weird noises. I couldn't slip the driver side timing cover on because the frame is bent over too much. I will be bending the frame back so I can put the cover back on before pulling the motor (just to give myself a tiny bit of comfort that a minor bump in the motor pulling process won't result in major carnage to the pulleys).

27929

[RM1SepEx]

Just take a saws all to the front and the engine can't "bump" anything. I found that aspect to be very gratifying on my donor...

27930

[billjr212]

I like it Dan. Maybe I will go that route instead. I did find an unreasonable amount of joy in taking a torch (mapp gas) to the body next to the door striker bolts to loosen them up.

Basics for the planned build:
The donor is a 2004 WRX with 98k miles.
I will most likely be sticking with the white and going with a lot of black or carbon fiber accents.
Splitter, side sills, diffuser, and spoiler from FFR.
Stock seats, but I will have the foam shaved down to get a lower seating position (I'm only 5'9", but I like to sit a little lower).

This car will see a lot of time on the street - guessing around 5k miles a year, plus 1 open track day per year, so comfort will be key, but performance won't be ignored. Still kicking around the soft top, but I may try to engineer a "bikini" top much like you see on Jeeps to delay the larger investment there.

I'll post up the full options list when I finalize the order with Factory Five. This summer will be spent on the donor car and the winter on the 818, with the final car hopefully being ready in the Spring 2015.

[billjr212]

duplicate post. guess i'll save this spot for later

[RM1SepEx]

I found that I got a ton of enjoyment wielding the saws all. We actually cooked one doing the carnage... luckily I had another on hand

[billjr212]

Hmmm - maybe this is why the engine won't hold idle. Will report back once I've changed out all 4 (pulled the 1 spark plug in the 5 minutes I had available before work this morning).

I'm also trying to track down a used V2 Cobb AccessPort so I can revert back to a stock or Stage 1 map. The donor car had Cobb stickers all over it. I assume he had a stage 2 map on, but can't be sure.

28034

I also thought I would share my solution to the Alternator pulley. It's not pretty, but it's just a turnbuckle from menards with the appropriate spacers to get lined up (fairly) close to the same plane. The belt is 28.5" long from Autozone.

28035

[billjr212]

Dan - haha - always good to have a backup!

[RM1SepEx]

Didn't you get a belt with your kit? I did and I have an extra as I sourced on long before I had a kit!

[billjr212]

Kit won't arrive until mid-September. I'm trying to breathe life back into the donor in the meantime before I take it completely apart. Good to know that I'll have an extra to hang on my wall later.

[RM1SepEx]

BTW I got my Copart donor in a similar situation... I wanted an 06 but kept getting outbid, I saw this 05 roll over with 70,000 miles. The photos looked like I could get the parts that I needed with few exceptions, was almost bone stock and UGLY... Ugliest donor that Ive seen posted. I prebid it up to 1850 and no one bid in the live auction. I've sold $1843 in parts... I should have wsent to pick it up, shipping took forever and raised my cost to $3500. With project creep my parts are up over $6000 plus the kit... You have a great start. Watch out, everything that you see and like on the forum... project creep!

28043

[Jvalgardson]

Good luck with the build! Looks like you are off to a good start. Your donor experience is really helpful as I have just been starting to look for one.

[billjr212]

That is a seriously ugly donor. Ha. Any really weird parts requests and roughly how long did you take selling parts off before you gave up and started pitching stuff? I've sold off a few big/obvious items (passenger side doors, rear seat, door cards, taillights) but kind of stalled out. I do have someone coming to get the trunk lid this weekend though. Another thing out of my way.

This morning I was able to get my lift up and running, so hooray for that.

28074

[billjr212]

Not much to update, but I am trying to make a habit to at least check in every few weeks so I don't get into the opposite habit of letting it flounder.

I have to say thanks again to whoever's idea I stole to use key chain labels to tag every connection (electrical, vacuum, and coolant) as I disassemble this thing. I officially finished off the first box of 50 this morning, so just ordered another from Amazon. I have been trying to color code to the extent reasonably possible (using red for everything that is getting deleted).

Also noticed during disassembly that the stock by-pass valve had 1 completely incorrect (way too short) bolt into the intercooler - 0 threads engaged, so I'm sure that was massively leaking and contributing to the plug fouling and rough idle. Still going to pull the motor apart to check for bent valves.

For those closer to completion, how easy are you thinking a clutch/flywheel change will be xx years/months after fully completing the car? Given the layout, it seems like it would be a cinch (relatively speaking). During my quick drive of the donor, the clutch felt fine, so I'm hoping to delay that expense and make it a future winter project.

[billjr212]

Had to put the disassembly on hold for a while there for a much needed vacation. Went to Punta Cana with a group of 14 friends. It was fantastic, but I was ready to get back at it. I've got the donor stripped down to the point that I should be able to pull the motor next time I have a nice stretch of time and an extra set of hands to do it.

After I pulled out the evap canister, I'm fairly certain I'm going to delete it. What a monstrosity. I may do a basic (some used one from a Miata, I think) charcoal canister to cut down on the smell in the garage, but I will have to do some research to delete the remainder of the system and wiring. Also, starting to second guess my plan to keep ABS, but I'm going to at least give myself a chance at it.

[billjr212]

Oh, here's me in vacation mode on the 1 day it rained. The panorama mode does something crazy, but the pool and building are a straight line and parallel to each other for reference.

29307

[Mechie3]

Very Nice! I'm glad you said it was vacation and not your backyard. ;)

[metalmaker12]

Hmmm - maybe this is why the engine won't hold idle. Will report back once I've changed out all 4 (pulled the 1 spark plug in the 5 minutes I had available before work this morning).

I'm also trying to track down a used V2 Cobb AccessPort so I can revert back to a stock or Stage 1 map. The donor car had Cobb stickers all over it. I assume he had a stage 2 map on, but can't be sure.

28034

I also thought I would share my solution to the Alternator pulley. It's not pretty, but it's just a turnbuckle from menards with the appropriate spacers to get lined up (fairly) close to the same plane. The belt is 28.5" long from Autozone.

28035

Only use NGK's and make sure there gapped right with a feeler gauge.

[metalmaker12]

Had to put the disassembly on hold for a while there for a much needed vacation. Went to Punta Cana with a group of 14 friends. It was fantastic, but I was ready to get back at it. I've got the donor stripped down to the point that I should be able to pull the motor next time I have a nice stretch of time and an extra set of hands to do it.

After I pulled out the evap canister, I'm fairly certain I'm going to delete it. What a monstrosity. I may do a basic (some used one from a Miata, I think) charcoal canister to cut down on the smell in the garage, but I will have to do some research to delete the remainder of the system and wiring. Also, starting to second guess my plan to keep ABS, but I'm going to at least give myself a chance at it.

All that deletion is easy, pm when your close.

[billjr212]

The parts sell off is going well. Over $1,100 in parts out the door so far. I have decided NOT to try to implement ABS. Just seemed like it was going to add more complexity than it was worth. My Mk3 was fine without them for the way I use it (generally avoid rain, obviously avoid snow, expect everyone on the road is out to ruin my day at any given moment). I also think I'm going to skip the side sills. I like the look either way so I think I can come up with a better way to spend that $500. I will probably change my mind on that item 2 or 3 more times before the production date arrives in early September.

I'm 1 rear lower control arm bolt away from being done with the tear down. Bolt is frozen up in the bushing. I think another round of pb blaster will do it. Also, my wife's Q7 is on the fritz so that chewed up a lot of time this past week. Finally caved and I'm bringing it to Audi on Friday.

I have hit another random road block too. Nobody seems to want the bare shell plus the Illinois Sec. of State's office won't transfer the salvage title to my name "because I'm not a licensed rebuilder or scrapper." I think I may have just gotten a pair of people that didn't know what they were talking about. Worst case, I'll cut it up and put the steel by the curb for a scrapper but that seems like a huge pain.

Metal - the deletion itself is looking fairly easy, but the code clearing is what I'm a little confused by. I'm probably going to pick up an Accessport, so it looks like I can use the AccessTuner feature to disable those codes, but I haven't seen anything definitive.

Well, shoot on the spark plugs. I already bought the autolites and gapped/installed them before you sent the message. Reviews seem okay and they were cheap, so I'll give them a shot and ditch them later if needed.

[RM1SepEx]

My parts sell off is up to $1944 from what I feel is the ugliest donor that I've seen. I think I can squeeze another $500 or so out of it... I got my shell dragged away for nothing but there wasn't much left. I bought a new 3rd gen accessport from AJW, they give us a damn good price.

Those lower control arm bolts are indeed a PITA... keep soaking it, heat too and then use a big poipe on your breaker bar, it will eventually come out!

[billjr212]

Yup. Apparently it just needed another day of pb blaster. Came out this morning like it was a brand new bolt.

http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140612_072611_161_zpsfyhwudk5.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140612_072611_161_zpsfyhwudk5.jpg.html)

[billjr212]

And the parts pile (most stuff is in the attic already)
http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140612_072547_761_zpsglteonh9.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140612_072547_761_zpsglteonh9.jpg.html)

[billjr212]

I talked with someone from the currency exchange who took quite a bit of time discussing options with me and seemed very knowledgeable. Turns out, the state definitely would not issue a salvage title in my name since I'm not a licensed rebuilder or scrapper. Good news though - stuck the shell out at the curb - scrapper came by with a tiny trailer within an hour. 5 of us manhandled the thing onto the trailer (on it's side) and off it went. Lots of room in the garage now!

[apexanimal]

at least your donor came with a complimentary keg...

[billjr212]

haha. I was wondering how long before somebody saw that in there. I got tired of walking around it, so i just threw it into the cab to free up some floor space. Wife threw away the receipt so the only way I can get my $30 deposit back is to buy another one. Works for me.

[MrDude_1]

I also thought I would share my solution to the Alternator pulley. It's not pretty, but it's just a turnbuckle from menards with the appropriate spacers to get lined up (fairly) close to the same plane. The belt is 28.5" long from Autozone.

28035

I did this exact same thing to another car years ago.. Unfortunately it WILL fail. The aluminum is not strong enough to take the stress. Excellent idea though. With a different, stronger turnbuckle it will work nicely.

[billjr212]

Good to know. Thanks for the heads up. I initially figured that since the force on the turnbuckle in this instance is almost entirely in compression it wouldn't be an issue (the eyelets and nuts are steel), but I could see how the vibration and heat cycling will eventually cause it to fracture/shear. Was your previous experience similar in orientation?

[MrDude_1]

Good to know. Thanks for the heads up. I initially figured that since the force on the turnbuckle in this instance is almost entirely in compression it wouldn't be an issue (the eyelets and nuts are steel), but I could see how the vibration and heat cycling will eventually cause it to fracture/shear. Was your previous experience similar in orientation?

it was almost exactly the same, except my belt went crank-waterpump-alternator... The threads inside one end sheered off and it slipped together. Alternator then threw the belt and was lost. I was stuck in the middle of nowhere. Thankfully I was able to limp home by taking the power steering pump belt off, and wedging it mostly on between the crank and waterpump.. Then bumping it on with the starter. While I was proud of my macgyver skills on getting home, I very much remember the disappointment that it broke. It was my first "custom" part on my first car. I think that's why I also instantly realized what it was.

[billjr212]

finally got around to doing a compression test this morning. 145-150 in Cylinders 1 and 3. Essentially 0 in 2 and 4.

Anyway, going to call up a specialist today and see about having them handle replacing the valves and going over the motor. With 2 months to go before the kit arrives, I think I'd rather leave this one to the professionals.

[billjr212]

It's been a busy several weeks at work, so I haven't gotten a ton done on the car, but I have passed a few "milestones"

-Power steering rack de-powered
Cut out the little orange/brown seal on the piston, left everything else in place
Closed up the ports by welding a bolt into the end of the line fittings
Welded the quill together to eliminate any chance of slop (flux core wire - it wasn't pretty, but seems plenty strong)
Put the whole mess back together after buying a new one of those fancy little lock washers (only needed 1 - I never took the passenger side apart since there is no need to)

-Brakes have been taken apart to get ready for painting the calipers and I ordered the parts for the H6 rear brake upgrade (went through Autozone)

-Final payment wired today!

[billjr212]

I was just about to paint my calipers this morning (finally cleaned them yesterday) and discovered one of the rear calipers has a frozen piston. Luckily the Autozone near my office shows it has a replacement available. Glad I didn't figure that out after I had already painted them!

[billjr212]

First step, first problem. Looks like FFR changed something on the frame but didn't update the aluminum to match. Either that or they forgot to weld in a bracket for me. 33985

[billjr212]

Nevermind, figured it out. Bolt on bracket in box 8c.

[billjr212]

Thought I'd post up a few photos.

Brakes were painted with a brush on kit from autozone.http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140908_074945_216_zpsjv9wvn8e.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140908_074945_216_zpsjv9wvn8e.jpg.html)

[billjr212]

Firewall done. Sprayed with some 3m rubberized under coating
http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140930_080409_408_zpstojbicvf.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20140930_080409_408_zpstojbicvf.jpg.html)

[billjr212]

Found some leverage to unbolt the brackets so I could flip them
http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141004_140505_373_zpsnbxzu7ck.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141004_140505_373_zpsnbxzu7ck.jpg.html)

[billjr212]

Primed and painted the first batch of uncoated parts.
http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141001_192458_158_zpsbvfm5b2k.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141001_192458_158_zpsbvfm5b2k.jpg.html)

[billjr212]

And a wider shot of the setup.
http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/Mobile%20Uploads/DA6339FD-DC1D-4AE9-A1D6-99A52B43C166_zpswpc01daa.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/Mobile%20Uploads/DA6339FD-DC1D-4AE9-A1D6-99A52B43C166_zpswpc01daa.jpg.html)

[Rasmus]

Found some leverage to unbolt the brackets so I could flip them
http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141004_140505_373_zpsnbxzu7ck.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141004_140505_373_zpsnbxzu7ck.jpg.html)
Glorious!

[shinn497]

Is this the first build thread for a red gel coat 818?

[billjr212]

Is this the first build thread for a red gel coat 818?

oh, i hope not - that sounds like a lot of pressure. haha. could be though. I think they switched to the red panels about 2 or 3 weeks before my production date, so there are certainly a few earlier ones out there, but not sure where they are with the build threads.

I did notice the corners around the trunk lid are pretty rough, but the panels themselves look good for the most part. There are also a few blotchy areas and 1 drip-looking spot in the hood, but I'm thinking once I undercoat the body panels (going to use the 3M rubberized undercoating for this as well) it may minimize some of these imperfections since they were mainly noticeable when there was a little bit of back-lighting. As you can see in the 1 photo above, there is a good bit of shine to the red. Still not to the level of a finished product, but good enough to enjoy the car for a season or 2 before pulling the body back off for paint.

[billjr212]

Continuing my "work smarter, not harder" theme, I used this basic trick to spread the upper a arm brackets on the frame just a bit rather than trying to pound in the a arms. Sorry for the blurry photo, but I think you can get the idea. Just a small bolt left over from the donor and a couple flanged nuts. "Tighten" with a couple wrenches heading in opposite directions.
http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141009_074325_419_zpskrc6lohn.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141009_074325_419_zpskrc6lohn.jpg.html)

[billjr212]

I'll need to get some more pictures in here, but thought I'd post a quick update.

I finished up the extra firewall between the engine and fuel tank (I only filled the center triangle, left the upper corners open for the time being for accessibility). As a quick note, I have now used both 3M professional grade rubberized undercoating and Rustoleum professional grade rubberized undercoating - the Rustoleum seemed to bond a little better, but the 3M product definitely takes the "rubberized" portion of its title much more seriously and has a lot more build and texture to it (and thus, I suspect, better sound deadening qualities). The Rustoleum sits very flat in comparison and doesn't spray very long before clogging up the nozzle and causing drips.

I also put the engine in last night - it "can" be done without removing the exhaust manifold, but I wouldn't recommend it. Scratched up the powder coating in a few places. If you decide to be brave (stupid) like me and try it, be sure to remove the coolant reservoir and the motor mounts first. Once you get past the upper frame bars, you can raise the motor to the upper frame bars and slip the motor mounts in from underneath and bolt them up. Once my new clutch arrives this week, I will be able to bolt it up to the flywheel and add the transmission.

I ended up going with a JDM EJ205 from JDM Racing Motors.com. They were very easy to work with and shipping was extremely fast. I'll report back once it's up and running to confirm how that goes. I will say they do a ridiculously good job of cleaning the outside of the motors, so at least it's pretty.

I also went with Group N motor and transmission mounts and ordered myself a set of poly mounts for the steering rack since the original rubber ones were in pretty sad shape when I went to install the steering rack.

[billjr212]

http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141024_101200_960_zpshstexzun.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141024_101200_960_zpshstexzun.jpg.html)

[wleehendrick]

The 3M product is what I've been using on the chassis aluminum; definitely seems to deaden the resonance, and I'd recommend it as well. I also use it on the backside of my fiberglass panels, after sanding and a quick acetone wipe it bonds well, removes the transparency, and looks nicely finished.

[billjr212]

Excellent. I grabbed the Rustoleum version at Menard's as a test (used it on the tank side of my motor/tank firewall) and based on the difference, I plan to order more of the 3M for the backside of the fiberglass. Good to hear that it should work out as planned. On the aluminum panels, I was actually doing a quick acetone wipe before and after sanding, since the oils (both factory and fingerprints) on the bare aluminum seemed to initially prevent getting a good tooth in the aluminum.

[wleehendrick]

I order it from Amazon Prime. I don't know if it makes a difference in adhesion, but I like to spray it on when the resin is still tacky from the acetone wipe down. Here's how it comes out:

35174

[billjr212]

Looks good. So you decided to spray it on before cutting the openings? How did that work out?

I also bought my first two cans on amazon prime. Make sure to check out smile.Amazon.com if you are not using the mobile app. That way a portion goes to your choice of charities. No (direct) impact on the price charged.

[wleehendrick]

That panel I sprayed first, and it was fine, just had to clean up the dust from cutting the fiberglass. Some other panels I cut before coating, which has the advantage of blackening the edge, but requires additional masking, obviously. Either way works!

[MrDude_1]

Make sure to check out smile.Amazon.com if you are not using the mobile app. That way a portion goes to your choice of charities. No (direct) impact on the price charged.
This is cool. I never knew about it.

[billjr212]

It's been way too long since I posted so I thought I'd pop in for a quick update. Our firewall at work is now blocking Photobucket, and posting decent pictures from my phone is a pain so I've been an absentee build thread-er. Anyway, I'm moving along nicely again now that my garage is heated. :cool:

Recently started a thread on my troubles with the throttle cable. To summarize, spin nuts are the devil. :mad: Do yourself a favor and cut a slot in a normal nut with a rotozip to install the throttle cable through the firewall. Also, make sure to drill out the pedal a bit before jamming the plastic retaining bucket/clip through it...or you will break it. Go me for breaking the same part twice in 2 different ways.

I got my wheels/tires paired up yesterday by the local firestone dealership after NTB refused to do it. Ordered the Black wheels from FFR and got myself a set of Dunlop Direzza ZII Star Spec's from Tire Rack.

I also discovered that even at 5' 9", I was very unlikely to clear the roll bar with a helmet on in the stock seat, even with modifications, so I ordered a Sparco R100 on Amazon (they had a used one through warehouse deals at a ridiculously low price and with the safety net of Prime, I figured it was a win win). Some of the plastic around the tilt handle was cracked, but since it is buried in the 818, it doesn't make a difference to me. I like the fit of it and will order a matching one when the time comes. Garage space is at a premium right now though since the temperature has plummeted and I am jamming my daily driver into the garage.

For the steering rack, I ended up compressing the column 1.25" and drilling a 3rd set of holes in the frame to run the bolts through. I did not like how in my face the steering wheel was in the "stock" position.

[Hindsight]

Dunlop Direzza ZII Star Spec's from Tire Rack.

Nice tires... I plan on running the same.

Congrats on the progress too!

[billjr212]

thought i'd post a few photos since i'm working from home this morning and enduring a slow start to a conference call right now.

firewall in place:
http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141024_104658_524_zpstku7nfkm.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141024_104658_524_zpstku7nfkm.jpg.html)

getting the rear shock perches ready for the springs:
http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141021_225150_153_zpswozbaqbp.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141021_225150_153_zpswozbaqbp.jpg.html)

new holes drilled for steering column where the nuts are sitting:
http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141128_111552_135_zpsnnv9mhy6.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141128_111552_135_zpsnnv9mhy6.jpg.html)

dead pedal aluminum:
http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141124_224235_384_zpsfgfnqodr.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141124_224235_384_zpsfgfnqodr.jpg.html)

stock seats - no roll bar clearance:
http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141115_125921_822_zps0t2wobrw.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141115_125921_822_zps0t2wobrw.jpg.html)

general shot - starting to look like something:
http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141128_111616_641_zpssgwk8lil.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141128_111616_641_zpssgwk8lil.jpg.html)

[longislandwrx]

What all your friends and relatives will be getting this December
36193

[billjr212]

haha - wait, is that not acceptable?

[billjr212]

Finished installing the fuel tank this morning before work. What a pain in the neck - it really didn't want to fit. Trimmed the tabs back to the point where the factory holes were essentially gone and drilled new holes. Even then, it didn't want to sit flat on the floor (which was very wavy) or flat against the back frame (rear of fuel tank is ballooned out). Also, I had to slide it as far towards the passenger side as possible to clear the filler tube from the frame. Wish I would have realized the filler comes inside that lower triangle rather than outside. Had to dig out the big hole saw bit to go through the added firewall.

I went ahead and sprayed the top of the floor pan and the front of the frame rails with the rubberized undercoating once everything was fit up and all holes drilled.

All is well that ends well though. Seems very secure and I'm ready to move on to the fuel lines.

[billjr212]

I'm also having some buyers remorse about the Sparco R100 seat as I go through the mental gymnastics of how to mount the seat and lap belts. I may switch over to the Sparco Sprint V. Anybody sat in both that can compare the sizing/comfort? I'm okay with snug, but I don't want something quite as tough to climb/belt in and out of as the Kirkey's.

[K3LAG]

I'm also having some buyers remorse about the Sparco R100 seat as I go through the mental gymnastics of how to mount the seat and lap belts. I may switch over to the Sparco Sprint V. Anybody sat in both that can compare the sizing/comfort? I'm okay with snug, but I don't want something quite as tough to climb/belt in and out of as the Kirkey's.

Look at my build thread at how I mounted my Sparco Chrono Roads and seatbelt. The R100's should be able to be mounted similarly. It will be on the last page or two of my thread.

Larry

[billjr212]

i've decided to switch up my original seating plan a bit and somehow got approval from the boss to do it.

I picked up a pair of Sparco Sprint V's but also kept my 1 Sparco R100 to use day to day as the drivers seat. I'll then swap out the driver seat with the 2nd Sprint V. Passenger gets the Sprint V all the time. My wife fits in it comfortably, and my friends can suffer through it.

I'm using 2 pieces of 4 x 3 x 1/4 6061 structural aluminum angle bolted to the chassis and then to the seat itself. From my initial assessment, I should be able to drill a second set of holes through the aluminum angle to mount both seat options with only the 1 set of holes through the frame rails. While I know my overall plan wouldn't qualify for competitive/timed racing, that's not my game, and I'm certain the overall system will be more robust than most mounts used in "normal" cars.

I'm fairly certain I was going to have trouble squeezing my helmet under the roll bar with the R100, even bolted (nearly) directly to the floor with flat stock. After I get the Sprint V's bolted up, I will reevaluate them from a comfort standpoint and may still give the R100 the boot, but it's nice to have the fall back pre-approved. I got a great deal on the R100 from Amazon warehouse deals, so the investment in having 2 seats for the driver is very small.

[billjr212]

oh, and I've been working on brake lines - if anybody needs to replace pieces of the hard line that they bent improperly, decided to route differently, etc, O'Reilly's carries the exact same lines supplied with the kit.

[billjr212]

Just between toiling away on the wiring for the last week. Every time I think I'm close, I find more wires I can remove.
http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141227_140211_799_zpsjenllmnb.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141227_140211_799_zpsjenllmnb.jpg.html)

http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141227_140137_301_zpsvszaak3t.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141227_140137_301_zpsvszaak3t.jpg.html)

http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141227_140503_838_zpslw4coq08.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141227_140503_838_zpslw4coq08.jpg.html)

http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141227_231414_465_zpsjbg5osyt.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141227_231414_465_zpsjbg5osyt.jpg.html)

http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141231_092723_880_zps3odegmzq.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20141231_092723_880_zps3odegmzq.jpg.html)

[billjr212]

Just about done with the wiring and decided to take a mental break and work on the cooling system. Realized that the factory upper brackets fit perfectly just by flipping them versus the manual and flipping the rubber bushings.
http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150110_154256_563_zpsbdffgcye.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150110_154256_563_zpsbdffgcye.jpg.html)

[billjr212]

I may flip the bushings back and cut them thinner to fit, but they seem secure this way.

[tmoretta]

I see you are using the Maxjax. What do you think of it? Convienient? Reliable? Safe? Does it allow enough room to work beneath the car?

[billjr212]

I like it. It is convenient. Installation was relatively easy with a hammer drill and decent concrete bits. For now, I've been leaving the arms in place, so putting car up and down is easy and quick. I have it set up in the single door bay of a 3 car garage. Theoretically, I could pull the post near the middle of the garage, but it's right next to a support post anyway, so not all that intrusive and the other post is up near the wall, so it's also out of the way. Their claim of "portable" is a little dubious by the time you factor in putting the shims in place to level it. If I didn't leave the posts in at all times, it certainly wouldn't be worth it for something quick like an oil change.

Once the 818 is done, I'll pull the lift arms off on the one post so I don't trip over them, but probably still leave the posts themselves in place, since they aren't all that intrusive.

Safety wise, the weight rating is certainly there and the locking method is a big bar slid through under the lifting post, so no worries (see the red handled thing in post #53 - that picture is at the 1st locked level). The first locked level is perfect working height for switching over to summer/winter tires and brake work. It doesn't go super high, but at the 2nd (top) locking position, I can easily scoot around under it sitting on a rolling chair.

Overall, I'm very happy with it. Definitely worth the investment for me between tire switches, oil changes, the 818, and whatever random other projects pop up. One catch - if you live in a southern state where the concrete isn't required to be as thick, you may need to cut out a square of concrete to put in a deeper section. Current code in Illinois meant I automatically met the depth and quality level needed.

[billjr212]

Got this reminder today (my birthday) that I need to get back to work on the car
http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/IMG_20150212_130813_746_zpsjxcjoern.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/IMG_20150212_130813_746_zpsjxcjoern.jpg.html)

[Frank818]

Well Happy BDay man!
Too bad it's not 10 times a month, you could work on the car at least 10 times a month. :)

[billjr212]

quick update on what i've been up to for the past month.

New radiator installed.
http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150213_204426_787_zpsxbvbg9d3.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150213_204426_787_zpsxbvbg9d3.jpg.html)

Center console roughed in - bent the aluminum in on the passenger side to open up the footwell. Fuse panel will be underneath the upper center section, which is removable.
http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150213_204411_442_zpsosg1eq7x.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150213_204411_442_zpsosg1eq7x.jpg.html)

Battery tray and lightweight battery installed. I actually ordered the generic "BigCrank ETX18L" battery on Amazon and they sent me the name brand version (exact same battery anyway)
http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150213_204358_177_zps8ponbqon.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150213_204358_177_zps8ponbqon.jpg.html)

PTP Turbo blanket and 0DB heat shield installed
http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150208_120810_119_zpshy2ut9v4.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/Mobile%20Uploads/IMG_20150208_120810_119_zpshy2ut9v4.jpg.html)

[billjr212]

I changed paths on the center console and decided again to try to use the WRX center console after seeing the great results others have had. I got far enough along that I'm going to go ahead and start on the body so I can get a better idea on where the dash is going to land and do the final referencing off that point for the center console.

This is just dropping it in place - no trimming. Obviously it hangs up on the angled aluminum that the parking brake attaches to.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39601&d=1426282724

This is with some trimming across the back and a little trimming of the front bracket since it was landing on the shifter cables.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39602&d=1426282724

It's still sitting up fairly high, but I think I like it. My elbow can rest on top of the center glove box without bumping it while shifting. The bottom edge on the sides just covers the top rail of the FFR center console, so I'll still have to run the FFR aluminum on the sides. At this point, I'm going to go ahead and hang the body panels roughly in place to get pictures of the car to start the registration process moving and also allow me to finalize the position of the dash/center console so they all line up.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39603&d=1426282725

[billjr212]

still plugging away at the body, so nothing exciting to report until I manage to confirm it all falls into place correctly. The headlights are the stuff of nightmares. I'm also getting close to the inspection by the state of Illinois and thought I'd post this little solution that some might find useful.

Illinois requires license plate lights, but does not require a 3rd brake light. I am not a big fan of the little license plate lights FFR provides with the kit. Found this on Amazon that has both integrated into a license plate frame. You do need to drill a small hole through the plate to run the wires, but it's hidden by the frame, of course. I grabbed a plate off the wall from a previous car just to do the test fit. I think I may paint it black later, but all efforts are focused on getting on the road now so I can enjoy the summer driving season.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WDWlqhPaLgQ

This is where I found it: http://smile.amazon.com/Custom-Accessories-92595-Lighted-License/dp/B007LICGLK/
(obviously I have no idea how great the quality is long term, just that it works for now)

[Kurk818]

Nice find with the license plate trim. I may have to give that a shot.

[Frank818]

Yeah it's a great idea for cheap! Might have less effect if the plate is located at the bottom of the bumper (behind the trans), but if it's between the tail lights, really nice to integrate both lights.

[sponaugle]

Nice find with the license plate trim. I may have to give that a shot.

nice find! Just ordered one.

[billjr212]

just got the call from the State of Illinois - inspection scheduled for Wednesday!! Geez, I hope the doors go on smoothly (I've already rough fitted them, just need to mount the actual strike and the skin to the door frame). I think I mounted the body on a little too far back because I was having some struggles getting the angle piece mounted to the frame, but a little time with the grinder to open up the holes should get me there.

Also - did anybody have any weird issues with the final headlight wiring? I've got the headlight housings in and the wiring in place, but have not had a chance to look if I need to buy any new sockets/bulbs, etc.

[billjr212]

Inspection complete! License plates should be here by the end of next week.

[Kurk818]

Inspection complete! License plates should be here by the end of next week.

Congrats. Wish mine went as smooth yesterday. :/

[Frank818]

Awesome!!!

[billjr212]

Kurk - that stinks. What happened?

In Illinois, the Secretary of State Police come to your house and just run through a quick checklist - confirm frame #, engine and trans serial #'s, check for various features to be sure they are working (brake lights, headlights, license plate light, turn signals, horn, wipers, parking brake), and check for the presence of a couple things (seat belts, mirrors, DOT stamp on windshield glass). Then they attach a VIN tag on the door sill with special rivets and send in their stamp of approval to the state to issue the plates. Probably took 15-20 minutes total.

[Kurk818]

Kurk - that stinks. What happened?

In Illinois, the Secretary of State Police come to your house and just run through a quick checklist - confirm frame #, engine and trans serial #'s, check for various features to be sure they are working (brake lights, headlights, license plate light, turn signals, horn, wipers, parking brake), and check for the presence of a couple things (seat belts, mirrors, DOT stamp on windshield glass). Then they attach a VIN tag on the door sill with special rivets and send in their stamp of approval to the state to issue the plates. Probably took 15-20 minutes total.

I believe the WSP officer just didnt know any better. He used the homemade vehicle classification instead of the Kit Vehicle classification which does not call for airbags

http://www.wsp.wa.gov/traveler/docs/checklists/kit_vehicle.pdf

http://www.wsp.wa.gov/traveler/docs/checklists/homemade_motor_vehicle.pdf

I mentioned to them that they are the ones that rivet on the vin panel and his reply was that they do no such thing. Which was also not something i was expecting to hear.

Im going to a different facility later in the month and hopefully that goes smoother.

[billjr212]

Finally received my plates yesterday! They are just boring random number plates for now, but I'll apply for a personalized plate in due course.

Also got Replica Parts (Mike Everson) engine cover hinge installed. It fits great and I can't believe I considered skipping this. Completely worth it. I need to figure out a hood prop at some point, but that is pretty easy.

Last night I worked on my trunk lid pins as well. As others have mentioned, they stick up *way* too high through the trunk lid. Out of stubborness and not wanting to move my brackets, I came up with an easy solution, actually. I drilled out the top nut and welded it up high on the post, near where the locking pin goes through. Then I just used a couple washers to fine tune the height. I'll try to snap a couple photos tonight.

Frankfort has a weekly cruise night on Thursdays, so I'm hoping to make it this week. Interior is pretty barren (no center console, no dash, and no door panels) but it is looking to be a beautiful day here tomorrow, so I can't resist.

[Kurk818]

Congrats. I got plates yesterday as well :D

Did you have to do emissions testing?

[Tamra]

Congratulations!!

[billjr212]

Congrats. I got plates yesterday as well :D

Did you have to do emissions testing?

Congrats to you as well.

Not that I'm aware of regarding emissions testing. Nothing in the inspection to confirm you had any emissions equipment (I still have the downpipe cat, but that's it). I don't see a specific exemption in the Illinois vehicle code though either. Guess I have 2-4 years to find out for sure. (that's when the first inspection of a new vehicle would occur)

[billjr212]

Illinois checklist for initial inspection:

https://www.cyberdriveillinois.com/publications/pdf_publications/vsd840.pdf

They don't actually check for bumpers or a front license plate bracket though.

[billjr212]

It was an absolutely beautiful day yesterday, so I went to my first cruise night. My hometown has them every Thursday night. On a good day like yesterday, there are around 200 cars that completely fill all the parking lots in the historic downtown area. I was a little late, so I ended up in the back corner of the furthest lot. I only spent a couple minutes by the car at the beginning of the evening before wandering around and having dinner and ice cream with the family, but it drew lots of attention/questions in that short span.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=42282&d=1432907850

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=42283&d=1432907879

[Mechie3]

Awesome! I need to get back to actually working on mine so I can drive it.

[Frank818]

Yes sir!! This is the moment that pays off for all the work! :)

[billjr212]

Still plugging away at the interior/splash panels, etc etc. Not a lot to show for my work each day and not a lot worth posting about.

I did want to post one thing though - something that everybody already "knows" - CHANGE YOUR SPARK PLUGS - do not use the ones from the donor.

I had a donor motor with around 100k miles - changed the spark plugs....and then realized I had bent valves, so I put that motor to the side for the time being and bought a motor from jdmracingmotors.com. This new motor supposedly only had about 50k miles on it and in my haste I forgot to once again change the plugs. Installed the motor, idles just fine, revs fine under no load, but there was a massive flat spot from 2500-3500 when accelerating. Even in the parts of the rev range without the flat spot, the acceleration was underwhelming to say the least. I was missing my old C***a badly. Scratched my head for a while, researched, etc, and finally realized I had never changed the plugs.

Pulled the plugs (easy on the lift since I haven't put the panel under the motor yet) and found that they were complete garbage. I'm shocked the car even ran and was very disappointed jdmracingmotors didn't mention it (one had the white ceramic insulation broken and about 90% missing, so they had to know they were garbage when they pulled them to do the compression test). Took the new plugs off the old motor that is a glorified paper weight in my garage and installed in the new motor.

Anyways, drove the car into the office today and the difference is mind blowing - holy hell this thing is fast now. I'm running Stage 1 Cobb tune, and can't believe the level of acceleration. Just as I was starting to regret selling my roadster, my faith is restored. Can't wait for my day at the track in late August. Cheers!

[Frank818]

Plugs can make a hell of a difference. However, new plugs of different brands and sometimes even different heat ranges, will not make a huge difference, unless you know the engine or look for almost perfection. But worn out plugs vs new ones, the difference is day and night and I experienced that on a 100% OEM 165hp Impreza. lolll

[billjr212]

Just been enjoying the car, taking it to cruise night and around town a lot. Little projects here and there, but nothing overly unique, so haven't posted. Finished off this little project this morning and thought I'd share. I'm using the Subaru center console and modified the center glove box to fit. If I did it again, I would use black caulk, but once it's in I'll probably never notice it.
http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/Mobile%20Uploads/20150808_081348_zpsp7rezsek.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150808_081348_zpsp7rezsek.jpg.html)

http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/Mobile%20Uploads/20150808_081354_zpsrtagjuvu.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150808_081354_zpsrtagjuvu.jpg.html)

http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/Mobile%20Uploads/20150808_081403_zpsdv29grkr.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150808_081403_zpsdv29grkr.jpg.html)

http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/Mobile%20Uploads/20150808_081410_zpsytkaohne.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150808_081410_zpsytkaohne.jpg.html)

[billjr212]

Here is the passenger side door panel I finished a few weeks ago. Need to replace the hardware on the door pull with black.

http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/Mobile%20Uploads/20150711_104022_zpsxbcntvpm.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150711_104022_zpsxbcntvpm.jpg.html)

[billjr212]

And a quick picture at cruise night this week. Yes, that is an ffr '33 next to me.
http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/Mobile%20Uploads/20150806_174257_zpshtmjtxth.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150806_174257_zpshtmjtxth.jpg.html)

[Frank818]

Hey the color inserts look great! Makes me want to do something similar (blue, though).

Did you speak with the owner of the 33?

There was one at my friend's shop last week, though I think it was a "real" hot rod not a kit car, the guy has a... 557ci engine in!!! That's 9.13L!! Let me tell ya, when he steps on it, that thing can destroy any eardrums 100 yards away!! lolll The sound is astonishing!!!!

[billjr212]

Thanks. Inserts came out good. Don't forget to use good quality and proper color primer. I don't think blue is as sensitive, but with red you need to use light gray primer or you never get an even looking color coat.




Did you speak with the owner of the 33?


Occasionally...He is my father in law and we live a half mile apart. :-) He is on the forum but not active. (Though not many are as active as the 818 guys)

[Frank818]

Thanks. Inserts came out good. Don't forget to use good quality and proper color primer. I don't think blue is as sensitive, but with red you need to use light gray primer or you never get an even looking color coat.

Good point!

[billjr212]

I've been busy, but continuing to knock down projects and definitely enjoying the car. Trunk kit installed, soft top installed (thanks to wallace18's build thread for the tips), and center console mostly done.
http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/Mobile%20Uploads/20150927_202827_zps5d17pijl.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150927_202827_zps5d17pijl.jpg.html)

http://i1304.photobucket.com/albums/s536/billjr212/Mobile%20Uploads/20150907_071749_zpsb651jwhz.jpg (http://s1304.photobucket.com/user/billjr212/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150907_071749_zpsb651jwhz.jpg.html)

[Tamra]

Looking fantastic!

[Frank818]

Wow you are that far in the build with a red one! Awesome.
Car looks Ferrari red. :)

[billjr212]

Reviving my build thread from the dead as I've been chipping away at a few projects over the winter. Never in my life have I spent more time trying to make a car quieter, by the way. Here is the new exhaust, almost finished.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=50937&d=1456176856

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=50936&d=1456176853

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=50935&d=1456176852