Tangent Dash Bezel

[d_gatorfan]

Got the dash bezel back from Don @ Tangent Kits last week and had a chance to install, so I thought I would give a little update. Don will layout your gauges however you want, he has templates on his website you can download. tangentkits.com (www.tangentkits.com) I decided on basically a comp layout. I'm putting my ignition and toggles in a small enclosure above the transmission tunnel, so there isn't much on the dash except the gauges.

Don provides metal tabs for mounting. The ones on the top get bent in a Z pattern for attaching to the dash hoop. The ones on the bottom, in my case got bent in a L shape for mounting to the under dash filler panel.

http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/q569/d_gatorfan/IMG_20140406_204642_154.jpg

The bezel gets mounted with 6-32 stainless cap screws, a few are 1" long and go all the the way through and secure the assembly to the tabs. The others are 3/8" and just thread into the plywood backing. I put the bezel in place and drilled through the holes in the bezel and through the mounting tabs to locate the holes. Don suggests just running a tap through the mounting tab to cut some threads for the mounting screws. I installed rivnuts, I think it makes the screws a little easier to get started. You have to make sure to securely push the bezel into it's final mounting position before you drill the holes. I did these one at a time, removing the bezel, installing the rivnut and then reinstalling the bezels with all the cap screws tightened before drilling the next mounting hole. As you tighten the cap screws the angle and position of the bezel changes slightly, if you don't take your time and go one at a time, you could have alignment issues between the dash holes and the mounting tab holes. Mine line up nicely. I've had the bezel in and out several times, and haven't had any trouble getting the screws started.

http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/q569/d_gatorfan/IMG_20140411_020213_398.jpg

Here is the finished product, I think it turned out nice, the clear powder coated aluminum should look nice in contrast to the black dash vinyl after the dash is covered. The plywood backing and the way it is mounted make this assembly feel very solid and substantial.

http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/q569/d_gatorfan/IMG_20140411_022017_344.jpg

I think one of the best features of this product, is coming up during the wiring phase. You can take out just the gauges and get to all the dash wiring. No need to take the entire dash out, huge benefit IMHO. You can see the plywood backing here as well.

http://i1164.photobucket.com/albums/q569/d_gatorfan/IMG_20140411_020443_850.jpg

[skullandbones]

That's a nice border around the dash bezel. If you liked metal fabbing, it would be a great excuse to buy some new equipment for that purpose. However, this might be a case to forgo that urge! If you don't mind, how are you going to finish your dash? Will the flat part be padded? Also, I like the access to the drivers side with the bezel off. Can you gain access to your MCs for troubleshooting or leaks? It's a pretty nice setup. BTW, I met a guy on a run yesterday who had changed his dash out five times over a period of several years. It's probably one of the most adaptable parts of the car to "make it your own design".

Thanks,

WEK.

[Don Wright]

If you liked metal fabbing, it would be a great excuse to buy some new equipment for that purpose. However, this might be a case to forgo that urge!

WEK.

The learning curve is pretty steep for making such a simple part - took me a week to make my first one by hand. I wouldn't recommend it if you're planning on making just one of anything.

Anyway - Thanks for the write-up, Dennis. Yours looks great and I'm sure you'll enjoy it even more in the years to come. Having access to the backside is one of the main reasons for doing a project like this.

dawjr

[d_gatorfan]

I have a glove box on order from Alex, so the rest of the dash will be the black vinyl he supplies - i think the aluminum on black will look nice.

If you need access to the master cylinders, an access in the top of the footbox is the way to go. You could get a hand in there, but not nearly the kind of access you would have from the top.

As far as changing the dash layout - It is cut on a CNC cutter, so I think I would be able to call Don and order another bezel with a different layout and expect it to bolt right in - without removing, replacing and recovering my dash.

I have learned that some things that seem simple take a a lot of time (and money) for me to master - I'm just not equipped or skilled for sheet metal fab at this point.

Dennis




That's a nice border around the dash bezel. If you liked metal fabbing, it would be a great excuse to buy some new equipment for that purpose. However, this might be a case to forgo that urge! If you don't mind, how are you going to finish your dash? Will the flat part be padded? Also, I like the access to the drivers side with the bezel off. Can you gain access to your MCs for troubleshooting or leaks? It's a pretty nice setup. BTW, I met a guy on a run yesterday who had changed his dash out five times over a period of several years. It's probably one of the most adaptable parts of the car to "make it your own design".

Thanks,

WEK.