View Full Version : Safe jacking points?
blkctsv09
04-12-2014, 12:06 PM
I bought a used MK111 about 4 months ago. I have not had to jack it up yet but was wondering about safe points to raise it?? Have a solid axle so I guess the pumpkin is ok from the rear. What points up front are safe or from the sides of the car. I sure don't want to screw up the frame or anything.
edwardb
04-12-2014, 01:10 PM
You're not going to hurt this frame by jacking it. Anywhere on the 2 inch square tube under the door sill is fine. You will find out how stiff it is, because anywhere you jack will lift the whole side, not just the corner. For my Mk3, I usually set a 6-8 inch piece of 2x4 lumber on the floor jack, and it goes under the body edge and lifts on the 2 inch tube perfectly. The main chassis 4 inch round tubes are OK as well if you have a low profile jack to reach under there. You can lift it on the pumpkin if you like, e.g. you don't want the suspension to droop. But I personally don't very often.
Note the above recommendation has to be modified a little for Mk4's since the body wraps under onto the 2 inch square tubes. You need to be a little more careful where you're jacking, e.g. not on the body.
blkctsv09
04-13-2014, 10:56 AM
Thanks for the info, just wanted to be sure before I did anything.
Cobrasrfun
05-18-2015, 10:43 PM
I to just bought a MK111. Thanks for the info on where to use the jack. How about jack stand placement?
edwardb
05-18-2015, 10:50 PM
I to just bought a MK111. Thanks for the info on where to use the jack. How about jack stand placement?
First post. Welcome to the forum! I put them on the main 4 inch round tube. In the front right behind the tie down hooks, and the back near the end. It's not real critical. Just get them centered up on the tube. The chassis is very stiff. With four in place it's rock solid. Also, I have plastic covers on mine to keep them from marring the powder coat.
CraigS
05-19-2015, 07:09 AM
I always jack my MkII on the 2x2 under the door. I find that, if I jack it a few inches forward of the rear body mount bolts, it lifts the front and rear tires off the ground almost exactly at the same time.
MPTech
05-19-2015, 10:57 AM
Since I started my build 4 years ago, I always jacked either the diff/pumpkin or middle of the front 4" cross tube, raising just the rear or front, then placing 2 stands on the 4" chassis rails.
With the body installed and painted, this was a challenge to sneak the jack in and not bang the body.
Recently, I had to replace my side-pipes, so I thought I'd try to jack it up, positioning the jack through from side, in front of the rear tire and behind the sidepipe.
This worked great, EXCEPT the chassis is so stiff, that it actually balanced on the opposite / front tire and jack! This was not something I wanted to work under! The car actually teetered with the slight pressure on my hand! I planned to place a stand on the 4" chassis any way, but also raised the side / front and added another stand.
Just be careful! One thing to keep in mind (and it scares the Bejesus out of me thinking about it).
NEVER crawl under there without jack stands. If you jack it up, slide under there, and the jack loses pressure, you will be crushed like a Boa Constrictor! Squeezing the air from you and not being able to yell for help! (gives me chills thinking about it)
NEVER DO IT! Always use Jack Stands!
silver_pilate
05-20-2015, 07:14 PM
MPTech, that happened to a buddy of mine who was working on his fox Mustang a number of years ago. He had the front on jack stands and the rear propped on cinderblocks (DOH!!). He was laying length-wise under the transmission with his head toward the engine when one of the cinderblocks crumbled, shifting the car and pulling the jack stands over. The entire weight of the car compressed him underneath the transmission. All of his air was forced out and he couldn't even scream for help as he was being crushed and suffocated. In his case, the thing that saved his life was the fact that his brother heard "something" from the house (the car was parked next to the screen door with the solid door open), and he came out to check and was able to get the car lifted with the jack quickly. As it was, he tore some muscles and dislocated and cracked multiple ribs and darn near met his maker.
ALWAYS use jack stands!!
--nathan
CraigS
05-21-2015, 06:36 AM
"ALWAYS use jack stands!!"
I couldn't agree more.
rwantin
05-21-2015, 11:07 AM
Yes, always, ALWAYS stands!
I too, bought my MK II last year. Even though I didn't build it, I of course immediately felt the need to get to work on it. I was amazed at the frame and the stiffness, the whole side of the car at once was a breeze. I have a low-profile jack with a rubber pad that works nicely.
This may seem very obvious and perhaps overly simple, but almost caught me once. If you are jacking on the 4" tubes the jack is going in far enough to where the handle SHOULD be completely down (or put another way, one more pump), before lowering, otherwise the handle could make contact with the body or pipes when letting her down. I know, sounds dumb, but if you're trying to finish something quickly it could be, well, bad. :rolleyes: