Any Hemi interest?

[erlihemi]

I noticed along the way on the various Forums there is a couple very nice Gen III hemi builds and an awesome looking 392 Chrysler build. I haven't seen anyone try a 426 and I'm the only Desoto build that I know of. I thought this engine and transmission thread might be a good place to share the trials and tribulations of putting a Chrysler in a ford that isn't really a ford...
So here is my offer... I have one example of almost every early hemi built by Chrysler setting in my garage. 270 Red Ram, 276 Desoto, 330 Desoto, 354 and 392 Chryslers. Until about May 2014 I can mock up any of the motors with stock valve covers if anyone wants to see how they sit in the frame. After that the build will be too far along to play with mock ups.
For general info:
1) I have written off the dodges due to lack of mounting options and tiny cylinder bores.
2) There is a number of viable reasons for using the 291 Desoto in this chassis
3) A 341 Desoto will look nice in this chassis its just heavier.
4) The 354 is the biggest "reasonable" form factor for this chassis.
5) The 392 requires lots of fabrication time
6) I would like to try an aluminum block Gen III for this chassis

So if anyone has been thinking about alternative engines I'm game for starting a discussion here. Transmission choices, carburation vs. FI vs. blowers, whatever fits the engine and tranny category.

Brian

[myjones]

I noticed along the way on the various Forums there is a couple very nice Gen III hemi builds
I would like to try an aluminum block Gen III for this chassis So if anyone has been thinking about alternative engines I'm game for starting a discussion here. Transmission choices, carburation vs. FI vs. blowers, whatever fits the engine and tranny category.
Brian
Brian
There are still a few of those AL blocks out there and they can be made into a very potent package. 500-600 streetable hp/tq in a useable rpm range can be done.
Blowers and other power adders aren't really needed because you will be 1500lbs lighter than most cars on the road and if it won't hook it's wasted effort.
The basics are already resolved to make them fit in the 33 as shown by mine and Adams but his has some serious bling on it too.:o
I used a 6.1 stroked to 7L/426 a 518/47RH with OD and lock-up convertor, had a shallow 7 qt pan made and a 6 pack TB with a large oval air cleaner so it looks carbed but still has the better fuel atomization of the SMPI. I am using the MS3 Hemi Gold and it comes with a sweet plug in harness and uses all the Mopar sensors. I used the same brand of block hugger headers as Adam but I had mine altered a bit for my motor mount design and to allow a lower engine height.
As mentioned you could hide the coils with an old Hemi valve cover and the whole deal looks old skool. Adam gave me the courage to follow and I'm passing it on.
Dale
Hemi 33

[Neil@rashba.com]

I gave up my eforts with the 392 hemi I already own, too much cutting and welding, went with a 302 Ford, 330HP.

I would like to see photos of the fit in one of these cool rides.

[erlihemi]

Neil,

I'll try a test fit on the 392 soon. Its way too heavy for my purposes, but, sooo impressive visually. From a practical standpoint (if one exists) with early hemis I'll build a 354 truck block over a 392 any day of the week. The 392 valve covers are about the same width as the 2 parallel frame braces at the rear of the engine. A 354 is just a little narrower and will take a serious bore and stroke change. With aluminum heads and a lighter rotating assembly, the 354 is at the edge of practical for an old style theme build. The gen III is probably a more reasonable approach and certainly the coyote is an impressive engine. Gene Adams and Hotheads teased us a few years back with promise of an aluminum 354 block, but it never happened. This was to be a 4 1/8" bore with 4 1/4 available aka. streetable Donovan. In the real world there is no market for the product.

So what you gonna put the 392 in?

Brian

[MT-ED]

Might need the extra clearance hood.................:)

http://www.nelsonracingengines.com/videos/on-the-dyno/NRE-Dynos-Tim-Allen-s-Motor.html

A "mild" 572............

http://www.nelsonracingengines.com/videos/on-the-dyno/572-CI-Crysler-Hemi.html

The new blown Hemi 6.2 Hellcat should be formerly announced at the NY Auto Show for the revised Challenger. Now if they produce that as a crate engine...............

http://www.allpar.com/photos/spy-shots/2015/supercharger.jpg

Martin.

[erlihemi]

Cool!! Never cover up a fine engine with a hood....

[Don DePontee]

Here are a few photos of Scott's Hespler's '33 Hot Rod.
It all started when I gave this 392 HEMI to Scott:
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s173/CobraDon/Scotts%20FFR%2033%20Hot%20Rod/DSC_4007.jpg (http://s152.photobucket.com/user/CobraDon/media/Scotts%20FFR%2033%20Hot%20Rod/DSC_4007.jpg.html)

Then FFR came out with the '33 which I told Scott about and as they say the rest is history and here is a photo of the mock up with the new custom headers built:
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s173/CobraDon/Scotts%20FFR%2033%20Hot%20Rod/DSC_0294.jpg (http://s152.photobucket.com/user/CobraDon/media/Scotts%20FFR%2033%20Hot%20Rod/DSC_0294.jpg.html)

http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s173/CobraDon/Scotts%20FFR%2033%20Hot%20Rod/DSC_0307.jpg (http://s152.photobucket.com/user/CobraDon/media/Scotts%20FFR%2033%20Hot%20Rod/DSC_0307.jpg.html)
It just doesn't get any better than this, Don

Link to my Photobucket library for Scott's build with all the modifications I had to do which in reality weren't that many:
http://s152.photobucket.com/user/CobraDon/library/Scotts%20FFR%2033%20Hot%20Rod?sort=6&page=1

[erlihemi]

Don
Thanks for sharing the link to the Holy Grail of early Hemi !! I've been curious if the photos are truly showing how tight the relationship is at the back of the valve covers. The inside of the tubes and distance across valve covers must be almost equal.

Folks, This is all iron! Iron heads, water pump and even the 56 300B dual quad! Must need slow progressive linkage to run the cones with that set up!;)

[Don DePontee]

Yep all original parts which are now completely reconditioned since these photos were taken. Here are a couple of photos of the clearance between the frame tubes and the rover covers:
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s173/CobraDon/Scotts%20FFR%2033%20Hot%20Rod/DSC_4403.jpg (http://s152.photobucket.com/user/CobraDon/media/Scotts%20FFR%2033%20Hot%20Rod/DSC_4403.jpg.html)

There's enough clearance to easily put your fingers through the gap.
http://i152.photobucket.com/albums/s173/CobraDon/Scotts%20FFR%2033%20Hot%20Rod/DSC_4404.jpg (http://s152.photobucket.com/user/CobraDon/media/Scotts%20FFR%2033%20Hot%20Rod/DSC_4404.jpg.html)
Don

[MT-ED]

Oh man! Those headers are gorgeous. Beautiful build and it's going to be a fabulous car when finished.

[erlihemi]

I would like to draw attention to Don & Scotts photo bucket link in reply #7. A note worthy modification is the Quick Time bell housing with the starter on the passenger side. I suspect there is more to this than meets the eye.
I will have some photo's soon showing the stock and Lakewood bell housings with the starter on the drivers side. The 318 position is rolled about 1 1/2" higher than the old hemi and this shoves the starter nose into the foot box If your trying to put the engine as far back as possible starter position can impact throttle location. Also the method of bolting the SFI bellhousing affects firewall clearance due to the spacer required to adapt an early hemi to modern transmissions.
Once we have some bad weather I'll be back in the garage...

[erlihemi]

Weather, mud, and poor fishing gave me a reason to retreat to the garage and open the beer cooler...
283472834828349283502835128352

Those are all 392 pics with the motor about 1/2" lower than it should be to amplify the tight spots.

[erlihemi]

A couple quick notes:
The combination of the passenger side head clearance and longer 392 block puts the motor mounts about 2" farther forward than the 291 Desoto I plan to use.
With the motor farther forward and the massive cylinder heads up higher I gotta believe handling suffers somewhat.

The 392 gets tight on the passenger side rear as the tube brace rises towards the firewall. This keeps the motor from being pushed back tight to the firewall.
The front exhaust ports get tight on the "pinch" tube and control arm mounts, but its achievable because they point downward.

With the 291 I can set the motor back against the firewall, however, 2 bad things occur due to the adapter plate on the bell housing.
1) With the Lakewood style bell housing pushed under the firewall I can't raise the engine up enough.
2) The starter bump is nestled into the foot box. I'm afraid that at full throttle my foot may feel the bell housing!
3) So the 291 will work fine as long as I don't try so hard to move the weight back in the car...

The moral of today's efforts:
1) A 354 Chrysler would work well in this chassis, because it is just enough smaller than the 392 to be set back another inch and mount the blower pulley...
2) A 354 Chrysler with aluminum heads is even better , because its lighter than a 392.
3) A 354 Chrysler with the starter on the passenger side is even better.

And of course a 302 SBF is easier than any of the above...

[erlihemi]

My "jury" is still out on what the final motor will be, but the 291 is my preference for this particular build. Chassis work is my priority at the moment. Stay tuned...

[erlihemi]

Forgot to post the 291 mock up...

31141

Aluminum valve covers will make the little motor look bigger

31142

I'm debating on fabricating a custom intake

[erlihemi]

I spent the summer ignoring this build while doing most of the other things on my list. I'll get back to it soon. I am adapting a Quick Time Bell (RM8076) intended for the 5.7 genIII hemi to this early engine. Adapters for GM Bells are available and this is the way I would recommend to someone that wants the starter on the passenger side. I chose the hard way for a perceived reason, valid or not, to stuff an off the shelf starter as tight to the block as possible. This requires minor work on the block. Some of the available kits require a modified drivers side starter. I've learned while laying in the PEP boys parking lot that starters, fuel pumps, and water pumps are the wrong parts to modify. So I will be dial indicating, dowelling, and milling my way to mounting an SFI bell with the starter out of the way of the exhaust.

[erlihemi]

33919 Block requires about 1/4" relief under the oil filter pad
33920 Starter appears tighter than it is.
33921 Plenty of room next to oil pan and above exhaust.

These pics show orientation with a 3/4" thick adapter. Note starter gear height. The flywheel used requires a 1" thick plate. The RM8076 has 5 bolts common to the early hemi, however, the dowels do not align. That will require drilling the plate, not the bell.

[erlihemi]

34332

[erlihemi]

34335

I'll need a shorter drive shaft once I locate rear diff position.

[erlihemi]

34336

[erlihemi]

34337

[erlihemi]

The RM8076 Bell and starter will work as described above. The Sanderson headers are the only "off the shelf headers" available and they will work, however, I am sure I can do better and probably will eventually fabricate my own. The combination of the tranny being an inch back and the differential an inch forward has me out of drive shaft. I have to assume the ford 302 sets forward more than I have this engine setting. The big oil pan sits above the bottom of the frame so I won't need to armor plate that. With the low deck Desoto and Sanderson headers I may not get the exhaust turned above the bottom of the frame. I also had to notch my motor mounts due to the low deck motor. A high deck 330/341 will work quite well with these headers and the mounts I'm using.
All in all a successful weekend!!

[myjones]

The Sanderson headers are the only "off the shelf headers" available and they will work, however, I am sure I can do better and probably will eventually fabricate my own. The combination of the tranny being an inch back and the differential an inch forward has me out of drive shaft. With the low deck Desoto and Sanderson headers I may not get the exhaust turned above the bottom of the frame. I also had to notch my motor mounts due to the low deck motor.

Nicely done I always enjoy the unique pictures you post.
A couple suggestions for you. Wolff fabrication makes tight radius SS tubing bends for getting your exhaust turned horiz. I bought SS 2.5 inch tubing on a 2.5 inch radius which helped get me horiz quickly.
I also had street and performance make my headers with minimal drop and the collectors tipped back 15* to get the turn started early. Don't know IF they will make a set for an early Hemi but they do fab their
own headers and they will send out a tacked set to check fitment before final weld and coatings. I was able to order my 33 kit with the longest driveshaft they had in stock instead of just matching a ford combo so I had one to cut to length. I have seen pinion mounted tone wheels for a speedometer but that would only help you a small amount on shaft length. On a side note I hate the FF location for the Emergency brake but I have waited to tackle that relocation until much later.
DB Hemi33

[erlihemi]

DB

I did use a 2.5" radius and cut it a little off the vertical tangent point to clear. next winter I'll fab that 15* collector. I have the shorter 32.5" drive shaft in it now and I think that will be fine. Once I set the body and differential alignment I will know for sure. I think I may have bought some serious foot box room with the quick time bell housing. I really wanted that Old School 833 4 speed, but the side shifter just wasn't happy in the chassis and the 2-3 ratios are too wide. I should have more progress pics over the holidays.

[erlihemi]

43299

New valve covers are like a push up bra in a little black dress...

[erlihemi]

I have most of the short block components ready.Custom Ross pistons, Roller cam, etc.
Still need fresh rockers and head porting. I have been preoccupied with way too many other distractions.
At least I'm under budget if not on schedule ;)

[MPTech]

Cool build, I like the old motors in the '33.
What kind of HP do you expect out that 291?

[erlihemi]

I dont expect more than 350hp out of the little motor. I do expect peak torque to be lower in the rpm band than a large bore small block. These are long rod motors. I'm using small valve heads and mild lift by todays standards. My theory is that with an aluminum flywheel, 11:1 compresson, and 3.73 rear, I won't have the slushy torque converter response I have in my big block car ( 68 hemi cuda). I actually hope I need to drop to 3.55 gears so I have an excuse to get a Moser rear...

[erlihemi]

Getting back at it after summer of playing with other toys,

57973

This is the 291 Desoto back from the machine shop. Incremental changes include, balanced crank, rods and pistons. 11:1 compression, mild roller cam, light port work, Extensive rocker work, and some geometry "adjustments".

[erlihemi]

58337
When I ordered custom pistons I calculated .318" pop up above deck. Actual is .316". I pretty happy with that!!

[myjones]

Fun to see an old hemi go together, too bad that piston was low and you lost some compression ;>)

I dropped the 7L back in mine to check the March pulley system for clearance. All good there. The AC comp, the Alt, the belt path past the chassis tubes and the clearance in
front of the steering rack where the damper and second belt pulley are stacked cleared by an inch. BUT, I didn't know the flexplate was much bigger on the new Hemi than the
518 bellhousing would allow so back to the websites for the right/smaller SFI plate.

[erlihemi]

So I usually wait for the new builds to iron out due to the flywheel issues. Learned that on Fords btw. If I could put an aluminum genIII 426 in front of my JW 904 in the 68 I might go new Skool, but wait, I'm on the wrong website... Must focus on TKO...focus...focus...Squirrel! :)

[erlihemi]

BTW, I learned that the 'W' on the end of the Mopar # is for wide ring gear. This really means smaller I.D. Not tooth width.
So you can have the same tooth count but different flywheels/ring gear. This really bites on the torque converter arrangement. I learned this from john winters at JW transmissions after instructing his daughter on customer service...

[erlihemi]

58740

Have I mentioned this Desoto is Kickin' my butt yet? When I have 3 other motors in arms reach that are easier to build. Even a 330/341 Desoto is easier to build than this 291.

Still best fit for the theme I'm going for though. It will definitely be one of a kind...

[erlihemi]

The pic above is setting up geometry and picking out pushrod lengths. Head studs still need to be equalized, possibly different rockers mixed and matched, spark plugs oriented, etc. I'll be at least another week playing with the valve train and then may have to order a different set of push rods to get this combination happy. Sure will be happy once those valve cover gaskets go on it...

[erlihemi]

So I had to "steal" rockers from a different project. I didn't do as well with my valve math as my piston math. The valves are slightly taller than stock and the rockers in the picture are modified with adjusters. The adjusters shift the pushrod pivot away from stock which I thought would work along with shimming the shafts up to compensate for the longer valves, but wait, hemi valves move away from the rocker tip as they get longer and the rocker moves away from the valve as you raise the shaft. I was short .030" lift on the intake and .040" lift on the exhaust! I had a bad pattern on the tip also. Fortunately I had a set of rockers that I had ground a different socket into with no adjuster. This put the pushrods in a better place and I changed the shim stack. This gave me .020" more lift on the intake than the cam card and fixed the tip pattern. Got lucky, but now I wait for custom adjustable pushrods. On a Chrysler we have rocker stands made from billet that move the shafts up and out with rockers to match. I suppose if I were getting really silly I could do that but then I would just build a genIII OR 354 stroked to 426. So the little 298 Desoto is still little and surviving the build. Gotta build another set of rockers for my 348 tall deck though...and then find a flat tappet 276 for the other set. Oh wait that's in the chassis now. Track T motor?

[erlihemi]

Finally got the push rod geometry where I wanted and put the little puppy together,
60099

Used Race Hemi Orange and Desoto Adventurer Gold for this one.

[erlihemi]

Made it back to the garage this weekend.

609286092960930

Working on final alignment of the TKO to the Desoto. Fortunately the 291 is like the other early hemi's on the crank flange so I can carry this over to another build later. After getting the starter and flywheel engagement set I had .030" left between the fat aluminum flywheel and the block plate. Now I have to work on dial indicating everything for concentricity. I ran into a little offset issue with the pilot bearing. I believe a pilot adapter like this one is available for the Gen III hemi from advance adapters. I made this one myself due to the slight difference in crank pilot with the older hemis. I originally had a steel index ring that is typical for adapting early hemi to late flywheels, but I needed the pilot supported further back with this thick adapter plate so I carved out a 4 step chunk. I needed a press fit into the crank hub, slip fit on the flywheel, and a tap fit for the pilot O.D. with an inner step to keep the bearing from pushing in too far. I think I got it. Have to pull the old adapter out tomorrow.
If not, at least I have the lathe set up and I can switch to steel if necessary. The pilot bearing is an AMC/Mopar 1.81 O.D to .670" typical for inserting in the pilot for the converter and adapting to the ford pilot. I think mine is part #6203, and was included with the Bell housing, BUT, its made in china so I need cross reference it with Timken.
So the fun continues.

[erlihemi]

In the pictures above I made a couple dimensional changes. I shimmed the flywheel away from the crank .080". It could have been .060" to .090" but my stock on the bench was .080". I also added a second ring gear to the flywheel. Got lucky that this wheel doesn't have a step in it and it is a normal 130 tooth ring gear that I had in "spare" inventory. So why did I do such silly things? Well I should have used an adapter 7/8" thick vice 1" thick for flywheel and clutch to input shaft happiness (Yes I was off the thickness of the block plate). The starter to ring gear alignment would have worked for a "normal" drivers side mopar starter. Since I'm using a GEN III Hemi bell and passenger side starter the ring gear must be closer to the block. I do believe there is some bad info published with regards to GEN III swaps and flexplate/flywheel combos. Since I don't have a GENIII with T56 available to check and my brother won't let me drop the tranny on his charger I have to wait until I make a few more phone calls to get the scoop on this, but it feels like at least 4 GEN III tranny combos.
1) Starter on Left (trucks)
2) Starter on right (cars)
3) Automatic truck and Manual Truck
4) Automatic Car
4) 6 speed Challenger
4) Hellcat
4) Jeep

Yep 4 combos, When I figure it out I'll post it.
Meanwhile my TKO position doesn't support an internal hydraulic RAM #XX134 as it won't quit give full release with the ford tranny on the Mopar bell. Conquering this with Heavy duty Fork and ball stud adjustment using external slave.
When it works I'll post pictures. Don't want to publish mis information until its tested.

[myjones]

I'm ready to buy a torque convertor and source the bushing for the crank on my 6.1 to mate it to the 518 derivative in the 33, so I'm doing a bit of the same
thing but the starter/flexplate bellhousing combo was a little easier on mine since it's an all Mopar combo.
Enjoying the updates, keep them coming.
DB
7L Hemi

[erlihemi]

All Mopar is easier for sure. GM adapter with GM bell and GM TKO works for right side starter also on the early hemi, but I had other desires here. Another possibility is to use the GEN III flexplate in front of the Ram flywheel by chamfering the flywheel to clear the ring gear welds. This does a couple things. It lets the Ford TKO get closer to the clutch fingers and allows a thinner adapter so the bolts are shorter. Oh well. Couldn't get the Richmond side shifter next to the Kirkey seat and it all went down hill from there.
62618

[myjones]

All Mopar is easier for sure. Another possibility is to use the GEN III flexplate in front of the Ram flywheel by chamfering the flywheel to clear the ring gear welds. 62618

For what it's worth the flexplate I used on my Gen 3 has 1/4" offset in it to correct the crank to BH delta. That one might have stacked with a flywheel. BUT it was about a
12" dia for the 518 bell instead of the 15" ish that is normal on the Gen 3 flywheel. So back to the parts tango, one step forward and two steps back seems normal.
Mine is resolved/all good on the engine tranny mating I just have to find or make the crank bushing for the input shaft.
DB

[erlihemi]

My Frankenbell seems to be a success. Starter starts the engine and I got through the gears sitting on the stands, so I'll see how it holds up when I can get road time. Clutch needs a little more travel, but is ok. Time to fight with the Ron Francis mkIV harness and gauges now.

[erlihemi]

68009

TKO is shifting smooth and the only strange noises came from the passenger side.

[myjones]

Mark
WOO HOO
It's great to see the EH ride on the road. You should take it to the FF open house next month even if it has to be trailered in.
The one off build will get a lot of attention and Dave loves to see a 33 built that way.
Dale

[erlihemi]

Dale, I already have a trailer ride June 10th for a local show that benefits something. If things go spectacularly I could be driving to the Syracuse Nationals in July which somehow have landed on top of Chryslers at Carlisle. I don't think they will let me in at the Ford event;)... even if it is towed by a 69 F250. This means the Lassie truck (58 Dodge) will need at least historical plates on it if the rod isn't licensed.

[erlihemi]

Well I obviously am still not Licensed in NY and haven't even submitted the paperwork, BUT! however , comma,,, My brother and I have run the car in a couple local solo auto cross events. The last one was on a 90*+ day with street legal Hankooks on the fake Bullit rims. We made over 16 passes with no issues. Radiator didn't blow out, Fan worked great, oil pressure hung in there, TKO is shifting fine, Frankenclutch and pilot bearing adapter haven't grenaded or seized, The electric steering didn't overheat and the mount I made didn't rip off, Brakes even work. The car responds and recovers very well to steering and brake input. I'm not using the brakes that hard as the engine braking is pretty good as I had hoped.
My brother was driving smoother and getting better times, while I was pushing the car to find my limit. I had the car sideways a couple times and never plowed the cones. As soon as I lift I have control back on the front. I have hit the brakes hard enough to stall the car when I don't get the left foot coordinated. Foot box is very tite, but we aren't getting tangled up in it.
Hemi isn't even getting opened up yet. I am happy with my choice of a mild roller camshaft and 112* lobe separation. Bottom end response is very good. The only issue is a slightly "weak" idle magnified by the aluminum flywheel which shows up on a "limp foot" launch. I haven't broke the 3 link set up, but, I haven't really tried launching it that hard. Fully adjustable 4 link is under the parts bench. Thinking about a trip to the local chassis Dyno. The engine sounds great on throttle, but is smooth on idle which tricks the armchair spectators. All you really hear is the solid roller tap at an idle.
So I'm claiming victory on building the '55 Desoto Hemi and moving on to finishing the Plymouth body work over the winter.

Cheers!

[myjones]

Mark
If you decide to drive the 33 to the FF open house next year keep us posted. I may have to fly in to see that show.
Dale

[erlihemi]

Will do Dale, more to come on the body work. Hope to have an EFI in place of the oversized edelbrock in the spring. I need the carb back on my cuda and the whole idea of the chevy cowl induction on the Plymouth hood on the fordesque body was to get a high rise intake on it. I'm running the original iron 4bbl manifold modified to the large bore carb plate for now. I had a lot of positive comments at the course. With the stiff Konis I was getting air under one wheel and my scuff was on the outside of the tire so more camber is in order. I don't think I could have pushed it as hard without adding the electrasteer at the last minute. You really can't appreciate how responsive the car is until you sit on the passenger side and just hang on. Without the Kirkey seats and harness your all over the place. One of the veterans who runs a 66 vette on Hoosier A7's was very interested in the set up. He was really interested when I told him it was 2600lbs and 50/50 distribution.
If I had showed up with a genIII Daytona I think a protest would have been made, but when you have old iron in an old looking rat rod its sleeper time.

[wrp]

I dont expect more than 350hp out of the little motor. I do expect peak torque to be lower in the rpm band than a large bore small block. These are long rod motors. I'm using small valve heads and mild lift by todays standards. My theory is that with an aluminum flywheel, 11:1 compresson, and 3.73 rear, I won't have the slushy torque converter response I have in my big block car ( 68 hemi cuda). I actually hope I need to drop to 3.55 gears so I have an excuse to get a Moser rear...You get 300-350 to the wheels I think you will be very happy. I love the detailing on the engine. Awesome build.

[erlihemi]

Thought I would bump this back up after Dave posted the video with Scott Hesplers 392. Don DePontees photo bucket stuff earlier in this thread took a hit as many did, but there may be some links to Scott's build.
I had forgotten how many iterations I tried at the beginning. Once I saw Don's application of the QT Bellhousing I went down my own rabbit Hole. My little 298 Desoto has a 112 degree LSA and less overlap so it idles reasonable smooth, but, it has that same sound we look for in the midrange as you can hear in Daves video.

FWIW the aluminum block GenIII is available in a couple iterations now. Mopar block is good for maybe 10-12lbs boost before it splits. Another company has a beefier iteration for power adders. You don't need much more than the stock whipple at 6-8lbs for an FFR 33 anyway.

[tony chiles]

how about a FORD hemi
http://www.hotrod.com/articles/giant-american-made-hemi-heads-small-block-ford/

[erlihemi]

Saw that awhile back tony. I like that its cast in the U.S. and will use a Windsor manifold. It would look great in a 33 or 35 pickup and much easier than the big Jon Kaase Boss Nine to get in a chassis. Price looks good in the article also. I always get a kick out of people talking trash about the Hemi and yet almost every major V-8 has been converted to Hemi heads at one time or another. So are you getting one built?