MSD 6 & Master Battery Switch Wiring Questions?

[Scott Zackowski]

MSD 6 & Master Battery Switch Wiring Questions?


I purchased the Pegasus Battery Switch because I wanted to have a true “Kill” Switch to turn off the car when running for safety reasons besides the standard dash mounted ignition switch. I thought it would be wise to have an alternative way to “kill” the car in case of fire involving the dash, so I have the Pegasus Battery Switch mounted on the rear cockpit wall between the seats. Perhaps redundant but I would still like to use the Pegasus Battery Switch. I am having trouble in figuring out how to wire the Pegasus Battery Switch with the MSD 6 Ignition box and the Ron Francis Wiring Harness. Any advice would be appreciated. Specific questions listed below along with wiring diagrams for the MSD 6 Box and the Pegasus Battery Switch.

Pertinent Build Info:
1. Mk 4 Complete Build
2. Carbed Engine
3. MSD digital 6AL
4. MSD Blaster 2 Coil
5. Mounted Starter Solenoid as a relay
6. Pegasus 4430 Master Battery Switch (Battery and Ignition System Cut Off)
7. Ron Francis Wiring Harness

Attachments:
1. MSD/Coil Wiring Diagram
2. Master Battery Switch Wiring Diagram


Questions? (see diagrams)

MSD Ignition Box:
Does the Heavy Black wire have to go to Battery Negative or can it just go to Ground on the Frame?

Where does the RED to Switched 12 Volts connect in relation to the Starter Solenoid Relay and Ron Francis Wiring Harness?


Pegasus Battery Switch:
Not sure how to wire the “Z” Contacts to disrupt the Ignition Coil or Ignition System with the MSD Ignition Box and Ron Francis Wiring Harness?

Will disrupting electrical current from the battery to the MSD Ignition Box kill power to the spark plugs and “kill” the engine once it is running? If so, then the “Z” Contacts on the Pegasus Switch are not needed.


Thanks

[Scott Zackowski]

MSD 6 & Master Battery Switch Wiring Questions?


I purchased the Pegasus Battery Switch because I wanted to have a true “Kill” Switch to turn off the car when running for safety reasons besides the standard dash mounted ignition switch. I thought it would be wise to have an alternative way to “kill” the car in case of fire involving the dash, so I have the Pegasus Battery Switch mounted on the rear cockpit wall between the seats. Perhaps redundant but I would still like to use the Pegasus Battery Switch. I am having trouble in figuring out how to wire the Pegasus Battery Switch with the MSD 6 Ignition box and the Ron Francis Wiring Harness. Any advice would be appreciated. Specific questions listed below along with wiring diagrams for the MSD 6 Box and the Pegasus Battery Switch.

Pertinent Build Info:
1. Mk 4 Complete Build
2. Carbed Engine
3. MSD digital 6AL
4. MSD Blaster 2 Coil
5. Mounted Starter Solenoid as a relay
6. Pegasus 4430 Master Battery Switch (Battery and Ignition System Cut Off)
7. Ron Francis Wiring Harness

Attachments:
1. MSD/Coil Wiring Diagram
2. Master Battery Switch Wiring Diagram


Questions? (see diagrams)

MSD Ignition Box:
Does the Heavy Black wire have to go to Battery Negative or can it just go to Ground on the Frame?

Where does the RED to Switched 12 Volts connect in relation to the Starter Solenoid Relay and Ron Francis Wiring Harness?


Pegasus Battery Switch:
Not sure how to wire the “Z” Contacts to disrupt the Ignition Coil or Ignition System with the MSD Ignition Box and Ron Francis Wiring Harness?

Will disrupting electrical current from the battery to the MSD Ignition Box kill power to the spark plugs and “kill” the engine once it is running? If so, then the “Z” Contacts on the Pegasus Switch are not needed.


Thanks



Here is the diagram for the Master Battery Switch Wiring. For some reason could not get it to upload on original post.


27408

[xatudor]

Scott,

The black wire has to goto the battery negative or you will end up with ignition problems.

I don't have any experience with the Ron Francis Wiring Harness, but if you are talking about the small Red wire that will goto the wire that normally goes to the coil's +ve or to any switched 12V wire which comes on when the key is in the ignition position and start position.

If you run the wire that would normally go to the coil's +ve to one side of the Z contact and the smaller red wire from the MSD 6A (see above) to the other that would also work.

If you look at figure 4 in the instructions and wire either the white wire or the violet wire (which ever one your not using to trigger the 6A unit to one side of the W contact and the other side to ground it will crank but not start due to lack of spark.

I personally would only run one of the above options to the battery switch and run the other one to the relays of the car alarm.

From MSD "THEFT DETERRENT
The MSD provides the opportunity to easily install a theft deterrent kill switch (Figure 4).
White Wire Trigger
When using the WHITE wire to trigger the MSD, install a switch across the magnetic pickup VIOLET wire to ground. When the VIOLET wire is grounded, the vehicle will crank but not start.
Magnetic Pickup Trigger
When using the mag pickup to trigger the MSD, install a switch to the WHITE wire and the other side to ground. When the WHITE wire is grounded, the vehicle will crank but will not start."

Hope that helps.

[Scott Zackowski]

Scott,

The black wire has to goto the battery negative or you will end up with ignition problems.

I don't have any experience with the Ron Francis Wiring Harness, but if you are talking about the small Red wire that will goto the wire that normally goes to the coil's +ve or to any switched 12V wire which comes on when the key is in the ignition position and start position.

If you run the wire that would normally go to the coil's +ve to one side of the Z contact and the smaller red wire from the MSD 6A (see above) to the other that would also work.

If you look at figure 4 in the instructions and wire either the white wire or the violet wire (which ever one your not using to trigger the 6A unit to one side of the W contact and the other side to ground it will crank but not start due to lack of spark.

I personally would only run one of the above options to the battery switch and run the other one to the relays of the car alarm.

From MSD "THEFT DETERRENT
The MSD provides the opportunity to easily install a theft deterrent kill switch (Figure 4).
White Wire Trigger
When using the WHITE wire to trigger the MSD, install a switch across the magnetic pickup VIOLET wire to ground. When the VIOLET wire is grounded, the vehicle will crank but not start.
Magnetic Pickup Trigger
When using the mag pickup to trigger the MSD, install a switch to the WHITE wire and the other side to ground. When the WHITE wire is grounded, the vehicle will crank but will not start."

Hope that helps.

:)

Xatudor,

Thanks for the info and it is helpful.

The Ron Francis Wiring harness has an orange wire labeled EFI/Coil, which should work to run to the "Z" contact. I can then run another wire from the other "Z" contact to the small RED 12 Volt Switch wire on the MSD Box.

From the other Forum, I am getting mixed messages as to whether the MSD Box Battery Negative has to go all the way back to the battery in the rear or can just be grounded to the frame in the engine compartment. I am waiting for more info on that.

Scott

[edwardb]

Scott,

The black wire has to goto the battery negative or you will end up with ignition problems.

I don't have any experience with the Ron Francis Wiring Harness, but if you are talking about the small Red wire that will goto the wire that normally goes to the coil's +ve or to any switched 12V wire which comes on when the key is in the ignition position and start position. Scott, I don't recall which box you have (if you said).



If you run the wire that would normally go to the coil's +ve to one side of the Z contact and the smaller red wire from the MSD 6A (see above) to the other that would also work.

If you look at figure 4 in the instructions and wire either the white wire or the violet wire (which ever one your not using to trigger the 6A unit to one side of the W contact and the other side to ground it will crank but not start due to lack of spark.

I personally would only run one of the above options to the battery switch and run the other one to the relays of the car alarm.

From MSD "THEFT DETERRENT
The MSD provides the opportunity to easily install a theft deterrent kill switch (Figure 4).
White Wire Trigger
When using the WHITE wire to trigger the MSD, install a switch across the magnetic pickup VIOLET wire to ground. When the VIOLET wire is grounded, the vehicle will crank but not start.
Magnetic Pickup Trigger
When using the mag pickup to trigger the MSD, install a switch to the WHITE wire and the other side to ground. When the WHITE wire is grounded, the vehicle will crank but will not start."

Hope that helps.

I responded on the other forum, so won't repeat any of that here. One response to these comments though. These apply to the analog 6AL box, e.g. using the white wire to go to ground to switch the box on and off. My Mk3 has the 6AL box, and that's exactly what I did too. But for my Mk4, now have a 6AL-2 digital box. This function is not mentioned anywhere in the instructions or on any of the supplied wiring diagrams.

I'm a little surprised about the debate regarding ground. I've actually not seen anyone run a separate ground, either for the MSD box or for the firewall starter solenoid some mentioned in the other forum. This is a mystery to me actually. Ground is ground is ground... Generally accepted good practice is the following: Ground the battery to the frame. Use the right size large cable (4 AWG should be enough) and bolt to a bare metal location on the metal chassis frame. Run two ground cables or braided straps to the engine. One to the block or head, and the other under one of the starter mounting bolts. Each should also bolt to a bare metal location on the metal chassis frame. Everything else on the harness can go to grounding points on the frame, and you will be good to go. Assuming all the connections are completed properly, e.g. any paint or powder coat completely removed and solidly attached, you should have a good ground circuit. One note though. Some have observed (and I agree) that the Ron Francis harness is a bit "light" for grounding. It has only a couple grounding lugs in the entire circuit. I followed the recommendations of others and added direct grounds at each of the four corners (running lights, headlights, etc.) and for the cooling fan. Redundant grounds are never bad. Doing a home run from any specific device back to the battery shouldn't be necessary.

[Scott Zackowski]

I responded on the other forum, so won't repeat any of that here. One response to these comments though. These apply to the analog 6AL box, e.g. using the white wire to go to ground to switch the box on and off. My Mk3 has the 6AL box, and that's exactly what I did too. But for my Mk4, now have a 6AL-2 digital box. This function is not mentioned anywhere in the instructions or on any of the supplied wiring diagrams.

I'm a little surprised about the debate regarding ground. I've actually not seen anyone run a separate ground, either for the MSD box or for the firewall starter solenoid some mentioned in the other forum. This is a mystery to me actually. Ground is ground is ground... Generally accepted good practice is the following: Ground the battery to the frame. Use the right size large cable (4 AWG should be enough) and bolt to a bare metal location on the metal chassis frame. Run two ground cables or braided straps to the engine. One to the block or head, and the other under one of the starter mounting bolts. Each should also bolt to a bare metal location on the metal chassis frame. Everything else on the harness can go to grounding points on the frame, and you will be good to go. Assuming all the connections are completed properly, e.g. any paint or powder coat completely removed and solidly attached, you should have a good ground circuit. One note though. Some have observed (and I agree) that the Ron Francis harness is a bit "light" for grounding. It has only a couple grounding lugs in the entire circuit. I followed the recommendations of others and added direct grounds at each of the four corners (running lights, headlights, etc.) and for the cooling fan. Redundant grounds are never bad. Doing a home run from any specific device back to the battery shouldn't be necessary.

edwardb,

For your info, I am also using the Digital MSD 6AL Box.

What you are stating about the battery ground (to frame/chassis) makes sense to me and concurs with Mark Reynold's general instructions for wiring his battery jumper plugs and battery cut off switch.

I think your point of additional grounds at the 4 lights is also pertinent. I also grounded my firewall starter solenoid/relay (unit bolt to frame not terminal to frame) to frame because I mounted it to the aluminum.

[Doutie]

Scott, Hi just want to add my two cents. I can't speck of the Battery kill switch, but they are o.k. in most cases, however ditch the MSD box. I bought Dale G.'s Mk II and after a while I started having dead on the road problems. It didn't seem to follow a pattern and drove this old mechanic nuts for sometime till I finally eliminated the MSD box and went back to stock TFI ignition. The stock ignition is excellent to past 6000 and I never wind mine over that anyway. I don't know what was going on internally with the box and I don't like to give a product bad PR but in my case it became the one more thing to go wrong. It's still on the firewall for the cool factor but I'll probably lose it as I'm planning to clean-up and simplify the wiring under the hood soon.