Jaime's Western New York Build

[Jaime]

I'm about six weeks out from delivery and up until now, I haven't done anything that isn't already documented here. I'm starting this thread because I'm getting a Quiafe LSD on Monday and there's not a whole lot of info floating around on how to install it. I could use a hundred smart people looking over my shoulder and helping me when I screw up.

I finished taking my donor apart in February, and have been busy getting my parts in shape to install. Here's what I started with:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/30569203_2X_zps3d2620d0.jpg

2005 WRX Sedan with 126000 miles and hit in the left front. The car drove when it was delivered to me, so the damage isn't too bad.

[Jaime]

I've got a handful of upgrades planned, most of which I have already purchased.

Tires and wheels: Axis Sport Xfactor wheel with Bridgestone Potenza S-04 tires. 18x9.5 wheel with 255/35R18 in the back and 17x8 with 215/45R17 in the front.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140328_185004_zpsftzhdski.jpg

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140328_194558_zpsrxchbs95.jpg

They were discontinued for 2014, so I got the whole set for a tad over $1000.

[Jaime]

Wilwood brakes - 12 inch front and rear.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140312_002047_zpswe9f36y2.jpg

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140312_191635_zpsgpxqnrdg.jpg

[Jaime]

SPT Aluminum Control Arms:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140122_195009_zpsevotoqwh.jpg

Real trailing links:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140124_191229_zpsjlzsuvpt.jpg

I've mocked them up and they will either slightly rub or have a tiny amount of clearance, so I'm going to offset the rear mounting brackets like Wayne does on his arms.

[Jaime]

Rear lateral links. All four are adjustable.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140127_185854_zpsigfrd6rq.jpg

eBay 2 row aluminum radiator.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140127_235327_zps3wqbqxvb.jpg

Didn't have a whole lot of choice on this one. The donor's radiator was toast.

[Jaime]

My donor had the high-back seats like the STI's do, so I figured I would keep them. However, I found a great deal on a leather upholstery kit...

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140129_200545_zpsdtvhrlqb.jpg

I also replaced the seat cushions because the bolsters were shot.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140131_184200_zpsag6t3f9x.jpg
The dealership told me these were the last two in the country.

[Jaime]

My donor came with an Automatic Transmission, so I picked up a JDM 5 speed.

27372

It has 4.444 final drive, so I picked up a set of 3.9 gears just in case.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140206_190759_zpsuk4k5sch.jpg

I'm still not sure if I'll use them, but I need to decide by next week because they have to go in with the Quiafe.

[Jaime]

A have a VF30 turbo the I got from a NASIOC member.

27376

It seems to be in really good shape. I don't know yet how I'm going to approach engine modifications. Here are the two directions I'm thinking:

1. Put it together totally stock, get it registered and on the road, then dig into the engine. This has a lot of appeal, but I'll be putting in an engine with 90,000 miles (not the original engine in the donor). If I take it apart to assess its condition, I might as well build it.

2. Do the engine during the build. I have a 2.5L short block on the way along with partial heads (some valve damage). I can always set it aside until later, but it's just so tempting. On the other hand, there will be a lot more things to go wrong and I won't be able to start it until I get at least a safe map in it. A 2.5L bottom end with 2.0L heads (or B25 heads minus AVCS) with a VF30 turbo isn't exactly a popular combination, so it might be hard to find a ready-to-go conservative map to get it up and running. That means I'll have to trailer it to the tuner before I play around with it.

[Jaime]

I've been busy in the past few weeks. My steering rack got the full "Rasmus Treatment".

27377

Fluid ports on the body welded...
27378

Fluid ports around the pinion welded and smoothed...
27379

I also welded the valve assembly to remove the play associated with a de-powered rack.

New inner and out tie rods, since the ten year old ones were nasty and really resisted being taken apart. I had to resort to cutting one of the outers during disassembly.

[Jaime]

Here's my front hubs ready to be installed...

27380

Back side...

27381

Hubs cleaned (all manual, no bucket-of-doom), painted, bearings and seals replaced, new outer CV. I bought a set of outer CVs because they came with axle nuts, grease, and boots. Plus, I don't have to pick which set of axles to take apart. I have a set of axles with female inners and a set of axles with male inners and I'm not sure which I'll use until I take a look at the LSD next week.

[Jaime]

Rears...

27383

27384

Cleaned, painted, new bearings and seals, new bolts, new parking brake shoes.

[Frank818]

Hey same brakes as I do. :)

That might be a long shot from now, but once you get the car rolling, let us know how the front tires seem to work. Comfort, steering, handling... I have 215/40 but wanted 215/45. I stayed with 40s cuz I have 4 of them on another car that I'll use and I was afraid the 45s would be too tall to prevent full lock (or less) rubbing.

[Rasmus]

It's so beautiful!

[riptide motorsport]

Great start! Where in WNY? I'm originally from Buffalo.

[Jaime]

Born in Niagara Falls, currently live in Lockport. I work out by the Buffalo airport.

[Jaime]

Here's one of the seats as removed from the donor:

27390

Current picture:

27391

I've still got some wrinkles to smooth out, but they'll soon look right in a new car.

[Mechie3]

I grew up in Rochester.

[Jaime]

Here's how close I came to major engine damage:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140328_232706_zpsct5pcc0l.jpg

That's the inside of the timing cover. The radiator overflow was pressing up against it hard enough for the gear to cut through the cover.

[Jaime]

I grew up in Rochester.
Cool, I've been drunk in Henrietta more than a few times. My cousin went to RIT. Most of the Buffalo Subaru community seems to be in the Rochester area judging by activity at buffaloscooby.com

[wleehendrick]

I grew up in Rochester.


Cool, I've been drunk in Henrietta more than a few times. My cousin went to RIT. Most of the Buffalo Subaru community seems to be in the Rochester area judging by activity at buffaloscooby.com

I did my undergrad at U of R... massive big ice storm my senior year was probably a factor in my decision to move to CA for grad school!

[erlihemi]

I don't think I've ever been drunk in or with Henrietta, but, it sounds like a good place to be. ;) Pretty sure I've been through Lockport a few times.
Good luck with the build. If they had the 818 available earlier and I wasn't hung up on this 33 project I think it would an be interesting project.

[RM1SepEx]

Where did you buy your leather seat covers? I've had good results using leatherseats.com

[Jaime]

I got them on eBay from a seller named autoleatherkits, they had a "last one" special for a RoadWire 2005 STI kit for $399 shipped. My WRX shares front seats with the 2005 STI, but has different back seats. I still have the back seat upholstery and a bunch of pieces that were supposed to be used for the center console and armrests.

There's a good chance when I look back on this build that reupholstering the seats will have been the hardest part.

[Jaime]

Got the transmission apart today.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140329_222508_zps72yeysyb.jpg

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140329_133802_zpsmp2ciq0e.jpg

It looks really good inside. I started cleaning - in the picture the left side is partially cleaned up and the right isn't. The gears look brand new - even reverse. The whole "JDM parts are better" rule seems to have some merit because this is a 1999 transmission and it has what looks like the 2003+ thicker gears. I make that assumption by comparing second gear with the pictures here (http://flatironsrally.typepad.com/faq/2010/05/comparison-of-subaru-gear-sets-wrx-legacy-gt-sti-ra-and-more.html).

I swapped in the 3.9 pinion, it was a lot easier than I expected. The thick pressed on washer between the pinion roller bearing and the thrust washer came off with a few minutes of tapping with a plastic hammer. I got it on the new pinion shaft by putting the shaft in the freezer for an hour and it dropped right on.

I have a full set of pinion shims, some gaskets, a 3.9 speedo gear, and new oil seals on order. Hopefully the LSD comes Monday and I can figure out if I need any other parts.

[Jaime]

LSD came today. I'm one of the people with an older style transmision, but trying the cheaper Quife differential (QDH3Y). It looks like it shouldn't be a problem installing it. I can go one of two ways to get it installed:

1. Get stub axles from an older style automatic transmission or an early STI 6 speed. I can't use the stubs from my current differential because they are designed to be c-clipped in and the Quife doesn't have access to the place where the clip goes and doesn't have a spider gear to clip to if it did. They're 50 bucks a piece at the dealership or nearly free at a junkyard if you pull them yourself. With these, I can use the inner female CVs from pre 2003.
2. Replace the 30mm oil seals with 35mm oil seals. They're six bucks a piece and allow the use of male inner CVs.

I have both types of CVs, so I'm going with option 2, but I'm sure option 1 will be right for someone.

I destroyed one of the bearings removing it from the old differential, so I'm waiting for the replacement to come to really dig into the install, but I got the other bearing on. The differential comes with spacers that are supposed to be used if installed in a six speed. The spacers make perfect tools to help press the bearings on.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140331_201311_zpsffrgadyu.jpg

[Jaime]

Got my replacement bearing and made some progress on the LSD install.

First, had to get ready. Here is the tube of stuff I'm using to check how well the pinion meshes with the ring:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140403_190343_zpswarjasuf.jpg

Removed the clip from one of the ineer CVs so I can use it as a wrench to turn the differential. Useful for checking backlash.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140403_201159_zpsrvgkk1qu.jpg

I also removed the oil seals and the o-rings from the adjusters so I could feel what they were doing a lot better.

[Jaime]

Instead of buying the $250 pinion depth tool, I'm going to do the old "guess and measure" technique. It will probably take a lot longer, but the results should be the same. To start, I left in the shims that were there when I took it apart. It had a medium and a thin one that totalled about 0.012".

This is something I've never done before, so I'm posting it here for for the benefit of others and so that if I screw something up, I hope someone will correct me.

I started by installing the differential and the driven shaft and painting a few ring teeth with blue stuff.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140403_190607_zpspfrbtgai.jpg

I then aligned the bearing holder at the tail end of the driven shaft and snugged the bottom two bolts to position the bearing and compress the shims. Dropped on the left case half, snugged the top two bearing holder bolts, bolted the case halves together, and torqued the bearing holder bolts.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140403_191251_zpswlokmiph.jpg

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140403_191311_zpsskgffixl.jpg

[Jaime]

I then set the pinion to ring backlash and bearing preload according to the factory service manual - bottom adjuster tightened until there is drag, then backed out 1 1/2 teeth; top adjuster tightened until it contacts the bearing, plus one tooth. I was surprised how quickly the top one got hard to turn, one tooth was probably pretty close to 10 ft-lbs of torque. I used this tool (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004K5JT9O/ref=oh_details_o06_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for both these adjusters and the aluminum plug on top of the steering rack. It opens up far enough to engage teeth on opposite sides of the adjuster and can put quite a lot of torque on it.

Next, I turned the driven shaft by hand to make an impression in the blue stuff. Here's what I got on the first attempt:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140403_192107_zps94koztzq.jpg

To my amateur eyes, that looks like too much backlash - the mark is too close to the tip of the gear teeth.

[Jaime]

I turned in the bottom adjuster one tooth and turned the top one out a tooth. After brushing the blue stuff arouns to hide the existing imression and re-assembling, I got this:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140403_194458_zpspgc6wofj.jpg

Better, I now have a dark line above the main impression, so I'm moving in the right direction.

[Jaime]

So, another half tooth less backlash and repeat the whole process again. The third time I get this:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140403_195649_zpsi3ht4grw.jpg

I'm pretty happy with it, but it seemed too easy. I never changed a shim and was very close on backlash when I first put it together. To me, it looks like the shims are correct and maybe it needs another half turn less backlash. I'm getting a proper dial indicator tomorrow or Monday, So I'll let this rest until I can double-check the backlash that way. I also have a new speedo gear on order, so I can't button it up yet anyways.

I'm hoping one of you can give me a little reassurance or some pointers.

[Mechie3]

There is someone who makes an acrylic version of the backlash tool. Might be subarugears.com. its something like $20 instead of $250.

[Jaime]

Tha want $75 and I have to wait for it to be shipped from Australia. From what I read in the manual, the mesh pattern is used to fine-tune the shim and backlash, so I think I should be good as long as I get a good pattern.

[Jaime]

I ended up checking the pinion depth by comparing it to the depth of the old pinion. I clamped a bar across the front of the pinion and used a feeler to measure where the old one ended:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140407_204233_zpszxhlfttd.jpg

Then I swapped in the new pinion and shimmed it to the same clearance. It was almost the same, but I'm glad I checked.

[Jaime]

I switched to yellow marking compound because the blue was hard to see.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140410_191735_zpsqxfyjskx.jpg

Here's my final gear engagement pattern:

Drive side:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140410_202503_zpseg8qennj.jpg

Coast side:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140410_202515_zpszhpttdgv.jpg

[Jaime]

My delivery is in three weeks, so I took advantage of the good weather today to start a chassis dolly:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140420_123041_zpsciifaur0.jpg

I got four 600 pound casters from Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008S52OHQ/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for ten bucks each. I like these ones because the wheel locks also prevent swiveling. I still have to build the pads up to final height.

[lsxsean]

Nice! Good luck with build.

[Jaime]

BTW, the transmission is now completely together and I can verify that the QDH3Y fits and all you have to do is install later model seals and use male axles.

[Jaime]

I picked these up a few months ago since I didn't like what the stamped trailing arms would look like on my 818:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140124_193301_zpsdncmpbbq.jpg

When test fitting them, I found two surprising things. First, I didn't think there would be enough clearance for the tires I'm going to run (265 rears). Second, these arms actually have less clearance than the stock ones. Wayne's arms look like a modified version of these arms - although I bought mine long before I knew Wayne's existed. So, I figured I would make the clearance I needed. Here's the final result:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140427_211328_zpsllh3fv25.jpg

I have no intention of running ABS, so the tabs are gone too.

[Frank818]

Wayne's trailing arms don't clear 265s?

[Jaime]

Wayne's do. The Godspeed arms I got off eBay don't, so I had to modify them. If I had known about Wayne's arms months ago, I would have bought them instead of the ones I did. If I had to guess, I'd say all of the aftermarket trailing arms are from the same manufacturer.

[Frank818]

Ok I get it. You got the God's which don't clear enough so you needed to modify the God's.

[Brando]

I also purchased the Godspeed trailing arms. I'm running 255's and the trailing arms needed 24mm of spacers to clear the tires! I ended up going with Wayne's trailing arms.
I also found less clearance with the Godspeeds over the stock trailing arms. Nice job with your fab on those Gods

[Jaime]

My 2005 donor didn't have a canister filter, so I just got one of these:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140508_221650_zps1t3xgn7i.jpg

It's a lot smaller than I thought it would be, but 100 Gallons/Hour (380Liters/Hour) is more than I'll need.

[Jaime]

#177 was ready and waiting for me yesterday.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/Factory%20Five%20Visit/DSC01363_zpsf84f8d4a.jpg

Loading it onto the truck was no problem thanks to the nifty forklift attachment Factory Five has:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/Factory%20Five%20Visit/DSC01373_zps2e530df4.jpg

Here's the nine boxes of hardware:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/Factory%20Five%20Visit/DSC01371_zps88652c4a.jpg

[Jaime]

I got the parts I need to get started powder coated.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140514_183021_zpsvmuwf4s3.jpg

Factory Five should really offer a service to get these coated too (or to ship them early). You can't start the firewall without the pedal bracket and you can't start the suspension without the IRS and IFS adapters. I threw the brake parts in the batch because they were handy, I won't need them for a while.

I've tried several powder coating alternatives and I haven't found anything I like yet. I would love to have a more repairable coating that I can do at home in a few hours, but so far nothing comes close to the durability of powder coat. I think I'm going to try this stuff for parts that I want to keep from rusting, but that I don't want to go through the hassle of powder coat:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/ChassisBlack_zpseadedf59.jpg

[Jaime]

Got a bunch of stuff done this weekend.

Rear suspension is on.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140517_210942_zps18k01vsl.jpg

I have 18x8.5 wheels with 45mm offset. I needed 15mm spacers to clear the upper trailing link. The real pain was the eBay lateral links and trailing arm. All of the spacers were designed to eliminate the washers, but the Factory Five kit doesn't use them. That makes them too wide to fit in the brackets. Six hours of grinding later:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140517_120301_zps9tvqruoj.jpg

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140517_125644_zpsrl4lws0k.jpg

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140517_135129_zpskw4lapxi.jpg

[Jaime]

Front suspension is done too:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140517_210731_zpslqr1kuxr.jpg

Assembly tip: make sure the cotter pin hole on the upper ball joint isn't oriented front-to-back or you will never get the pin in.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140518_162244_zpscuphf9qc.jpg

[Kurk818]

I feel you on the lateral link spacers. I had to do the same thing. Did you grind them free hand on a bench grinder?

[Jaime]

Front firewall is in too.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140518_112747_zpsjflcfuvw.jpg

I did the suspension before the firewall because I wanted to see how the wheels fit and I need to wait for the pedal mount to be powder coated. Doing the firewall with wheels on isn't too bad. I did have to cut of the tip of the driver's side LCA bolt to avoid interference with the firewall.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140516_214701_zpsmcfcap4a.jpg

Even then, it was really close.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140516_214719_zpswcyabw5c.jpg

[Jaime]

Got the engine in last night. Here's my "custom tool" for holding the flywheel to torque the nuts:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140520_200036_zpsbrxhczhv.jpg

Engine in the car:
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140521_000742_zpsdtwbjmf7.jpg

It feel really good to be this far, but there's still a long way to go.

[Kurk818]

Awesome progress! Are you doing this solo?

[Jaime]

I feel you on the lateral link spacers. I had to do the same thing. Did you grind them free hand on a bench grinder?
Bench grinder. It took me six hours because they kept getting too hot to hold.

Awesome progress! Are you doing this solo?
Thanks. I'm doing it mostly solo, but I had two friends help me get the engine in last night. It took about four hours to get it prepped and in.

[sponaugle]

My delivery is in three weeks, so I took advantage of the good weather today to start a chassis dolly:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140420_123041_zpsciifaur0.jpg

I got four 600 pound casters from Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008S52OHQ/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) for ten bucks each. I like these ones because the wheel locks also prevent swiveling. I still have to build the pads up to final height.


Do you have the dimensions of your dolly? Primarily the distance from front to back and width of the standoffs?

Jeff

[AZPete]

Jeff
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?11458-Chassis-Dolly

[Brando]

I have 18x8.5 wheels with 45mm offset. I needed 15mm spacers to clear the upper trailing link. The real pain was the eBay lateral links and trailing arm. All of the spacers were designed to eliminate the washers, but the Factory Five kit doesn't use them. That makes them too wide to fit in the brackets. Six hours of grinding later:

I had a machine shop do all the cutting on a lathe. Cost $30 to do the lateral links and trailing arm spacers. I didn't end up using the trailing arms because of clearance issues with the tires and went with Waynes lower trailing arms. Even with those I still need 5mm offset for it to clear. On the upper trailing arms I had to put both spacers on the outside to gain the clearance needed.

[Frank818]

went with Waynes lower trailing arms. Even with those I still need 5mm offset for it to clear. On the upper trailing arms I had to put both spacers on the outside to gain the clearance needed.

What is your wheel and tire setup again? I have Wayne's arms (those he sell, not his 2 private arms), and will use 18x9.5 in 265s.

[metros]

You're making some great progress!

[Frank818]

The real pain was the eBay lateral links and trailing arm. All of the spacers were designed to eliminate the washers, but the Factory Five kit doesn't use them. That makes them too wide to fit in the brackets. Six hours of grinding later:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140517_120301_zps9tvqruoj.jpg

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140517_125644_zpsrl4lws0k.jpg

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140517_135129_zpskw4lapxi.jpg

Ha! Got it! So it's you with the same links as me. Ok so I guess I didn't grind at the right place, I have to do it on the external portion, that's what I thought. Stupid thing, but no choice!

[Jaime]

That's why I love pictures in build threads. I'm glad mine helped you.

[Frank818]

Jaime, on the lateral links again, one link comes with conical washers on one end and yellow/orangeish rubber on the other end (it has the bracket for the rear sway bar on the OEM imprezas) and the other link comes with no sway bar bracket and has conical washers on one end and round washers on the other end (those on the first pic on my post #57).

On that latter link, which side is it installed? The conical washers go on the spindle and round ones on the chassis?
I am asking cuz on the link with sway bar bracket, the conical washers go on the chassis end.

tnx

[Jaime]

I put the straight spacers on the chassis side. The conical washers seemed to match the spindle and nut better and the conical ones are much harder to grind. It's possible they were intended to go the other way around.

BTW, were all of yours the same length? One of mine was shorter - probably a wagon part. There's enough adjustment for it to work, but it just shows that you get what you pay for.

[Frank818]

I have to check on the length, but what I remember is that they are supposed to fit the wagon, so I wasn't sure how they designed it: one shorter for when you adjust them at the shortest possible or short enough on all 4 but same length so that everyone will adjust longer than the shortest.

Since the conical washers go on the spindle side for the link with sway bar bracket, I would guess the same on the other link, so I'll do like you. That link seems to be pretty symmetrical anyway.

[Frank818]

BTW, my kit came with a pair of M16 bolts and nuts that fit the in the cam bolt holes of the front knuckles. They weren't on the inventory sheet and I can't find any other use for them, so I put them there.

(from post #363 of Rasmus' thread)

In a small bag within the bigger cardboard box of fasteners? If yes, what was written on the sticker?

[Jaime]

It was a label similar to all of the other fasteners. I'm 95% sure it was in the hardware box.

[Frank818]

I'll check if I have an M16 bag. Looking through the manual FFR doesn't mention the word "M16" other than in the Torque Specs section, so they probably don't provide M16 for the kit. I'm not far enough to know that.

[Frank818]

No M16 bag.

My blue ebay lateral links are all 4 the same length.

I have gone a different route. First I will use the conical washers on the chassis side for both sets of blue links. Second, I will get the cones machined to remove 2mm. But not the outside side, but the inner side where the cone becomes straight. That way the washer will go in the sleeve further and the outside of the washer won't lose strength cuz it won't be thinner.

[Jaime]

If I were doing it on a lathe, I would do the same thing. Good call.

[Jaime]

I've been working on electrical for the past few weeks, so not much to show. But, I got some backordered parts yesterday, including my pedal bracket mount.

The cable mount isn't as bad as the stories I've heard about the DBW mount. But, drilling for the rivnut at the top is an awful job. I've heard people say to cut down a 25/64th bit, but I barely have enough room for my angle drill with a shorty #30 bit that I use for the small rivets. I ended up cutting a 3/16th bit short and hogging it out until the rivnut fit.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140610_195511_zpssrmvwgow.jpg

I don't like how the bottom mounts to a 0.040 aluminum panel, so I need to make a bracket for that. Also, the cable goes through the aluminum at an angle that causes it to rub both on the cable end and on the pedal bracket. I'll get picture of both when I fix them.

On a side note - the split nut is an evil thing. The only way to have any hope of getting it on is to take the entire mount off. Mine was made in such a way that if the splits were lined up, then the threads engaged properly. If it is rotated more than about 60 degrees from lined up, the threads were so far off that it couldn't be spun on the threads. My fix for the angle of the cable is going to eliminate the split nut.

[Jaime]

Here's my main harness about half dieted.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140605_191141_zpsniqileju.jpg

I plan to make it look really good without buying an aftermarket harness or sending mine away to get done. If you enjoy electrical (I do), stay tuned to this thread so you don't make the same mistakes I do. If you hate electrical, look away because it's going to get ugly in a few days.

[Jaime]

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140612_234349_zps2kutpudf.jpg

Now that's a starter cable.

I didn't want to run it over the engine and the one Factory Five provides isn't long enough to go around. Besides, I think 4 gauge is a little thin for a ten foot cable. The 1/0 cable I used is probably overkill, but it's insanely flexible so it's easier to work with than the original 4 gauge cable. I'll use the wire from the kit to supply power to my fuse block.

[Jaime]

Most of my wiring stuff came.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140613_175541_zpsju2nqszg.jpg

Time to get to work.

[Jaime]

My donor had an automatic transmission, but I've since installed a 5 speed. The ECU only needs to have one pin grounded for the conversion, so I installed this wire in the connector (the BrR one in the upper right corner):

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140616_230636_zpszrkhwyzc.jpg

Fortunately, there are a bunch of ECU-to-TCM wires that can be borrowed since the auto harness has no wire at that position on the connector. The wire I borrowed came from the B ECU connector at position 20. It's currently in the C connector (the smallest one in the center) at position 1.

[Jaime]

I also did a little work in the engine compartment.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140616_230808_zpsexllldsr.jpg

I took my donor apart in zero degree temperatures, so I broke a bunch of vacuum hoses and the turbo inlet. I ordered an eBay turbo inlet in blue, so I decided to pick up some blue silicone vacuum hoses and paint the manifold blue.

I found that the manifold is really difficult to take off because there is very little room between the top of the hard cooling pipe that goes from the driver's side of the block to the coolant fill tank and the frame member. The manifold won't come off the TGV assemblies because of the routing of the fuel rails. So, for easier servicing, I'm going with aftermarket fuel rails and replacing the hard coolant pipe with silicone.

[Jaime]

I started installing the wiring harness. The first order of business is to decide where stuff goes. I'm going to put the ECU where the manual says, except it will be sandwiched between the seat back aluminum and the rear firewall...

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140618_193417_zpspbhgmo94.jpg

My fusebox is going to go on the passenger side, easily accessible with the engine cover removed...

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140618_202720_zpsct5hwp4l.jpg

Everything is temporarily mounted at this point. I want to see how things lay out before committing.

[Jaime]

At this location, the connectors on the right side of the engine plug in easily.

For the left side, I separated the engine plugs from the front harness. It comes out really easily except for one wire. The two big plugs connect to the black 24 pin connector and the blue 16 pin connector that has only a few wire populated. There is also a yellow/red wire that goes to a white connector. The stray one is a power wire and I'm totally redoing the fusebox anyways, so I just pulled that wire out of the connector body to get it separated from the rest of the front harness. Here's an overhead shot of the part I separated plugged into the engine harness connectors:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140618_203109_zpsnfbr7j69.jpg

[Jaime]

Next comes the part that's the most important part. Most of the engine harness goes to the ECU. But, on a WRX, it goes from the ECU, up into the dash and merges with the main harness, follows that all the way to the driver's side fender and wraps all the way to the front of the engine. This creates two problems. First, the engine wiring is mixed in with the gauge cluster and steering column wiring, but those go different places on the 818. Second, the wires are way too long. The simple way to do it is just to use the extra length to fold the wires back and plug them in. A lot of people are doing this and it works fine, but it's the main cause of the rats nest in the tunnel.

I separated the two connectors (B100 and B200) from the rest of the main harness all the way back to the ECU. With the exception of about six wires, all of them run directly to the ECU. Since the main harness is a total mess, I just unplugged each wire from the connector, pulled the wire back to the ECU, and plugged it back into the connector. The only thing I need to fix are:

-Two ground junctions had to be cut because they involve wires from components that are staying at the front of the car. I just labeled the wires and I'll connect them neatly when the rest of the wires are laid in place.
-Two short wires go from the engine harness to the gauge cluster. That is no longer a short distance, so those will need to be lengthened. For now, I cut them and labeled them.
-There are two power circuits - one that is always hot and one that is hot is the start and run positions. Those are labeled and just hanging for the moment. Since I'm redoing the fuse box, those were always going to be re-done.

Here's what I have right now:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140619_000240_zps6whwruwe.jpg

There's six or seven extra feet of wire bundled up in the middle. I'm going to shorten them. I think I might eliminate the Subaru B100 and B200 connectors and replace them with new connectors. That way I won't have any wire splices. On the other hand, there will only be about two feet of wire before the engine connectors, so that might be overkill.

[Jaime]

Getting there...

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140709_233656_zpsu6a7rvr6.jpg

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140709_233709_zpstswfo1ra.jpg

I have most of the wires running through the car done. I still have to do all of the grounds and the fuse box.

[AZPete]

Nice work, Jaime. Much less wire than mine, but I'm one of those guys you mentioned who hates wiring. Yes, I should have looked away, as you suggested. :)

[flynntuna]

I too have a wiring phobia, are you making any provision in the unlikely case that the fuel tank needs to be swapped out? The idea of having to deal with the harness is twice would put me in the fetal position LOL.

[Jaime]

I too have a wiring phobia, are you making any provision in the unlikely case that the fuel tank needs to be swapped out? The idea of having to deal with the harness is twice would put me in the fetal position LOL.Just unplug the ECU connectors, the three engine connectors, the cruise control actuator, the rear light harness connector, and the new one I'm going to add on the fuse box wire bundle and the rear section of the harness is free.

After I get all the wires in, the harness will be cable laced and also zip tied in place. Removing the zip ties will leave the harness free, but it will still maintain its integrity. I'm not a big fan of using a cable covering unless the bundle needs to be protected. The wires in the pictures will all be under aluminum panels or under the dash, so they won't be covered with anything. Any wires in the engine bay will be covered.

[Jaime]

I'm happy to be doing something non-electrical for a change of pace.

Got some stuff in the mail:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140715_175332_zpsnwcv4agq.jpg

That's a tube and rods ends to make a rear support brace, some aluminum bar for wiring harness support, a 0.1 inch thick 1'x4' piece of aluminum for an upper rear firewall to mount the ECU to, and a 0.1 inch thick piece of 1'x2' aluminum for the base of the fusebox.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140715_175441_zpsnd8f716s.jpg

This is a horrible picture of a 3'x3' piece of 0.040 aluminum to make new interior rear sides. I want to eliminate the sedan mount bays and extend to cover the area left open when installing a smaller tank.

[Jaime]

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140717_185455_zpsojc6a0d2.jpg

It's amazing how much hose you need to run both heat and air-to-water intercooling. If I splurged on silicone, that would be $200 of just hose. Instead, I went with good old Goodyear heater hose.

[Jaime]

A test fit showed my lower radiator hose rubbed on the steering rack boot. Instead of trying some sort of spacer, I took the Neanderthal approach:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140713_120818_zpsnebkz9fy.jpg

The end result looks OK:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140715_175554_zps8mxhzncw.jpg

[Jaime]

Almost done with wiring...

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140721_215801_zpsx8vevcx7.jpg

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140721_215738_zpsiuyrnbhf.jpg

[Jaime]

I got this in the mail on Friday:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140718_184618_zps8rr5pxs1.jpg

After a test fitting, I need to swap a few pieces of silicone out for alternates. I should be able to install it around the end of the week.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hey Jaime,
Great NEAT job with the wiring. I'm impressed.
Love the AWIC's also.
Bob

[metalmaker12]

Nice job on wiring !!

[Frank818]

I love AWICs. :)

[Aero STI]

Your wiring looks outstanding!

Where did you get all of your AWIC parts from?

[Jaime]

Where did you get all of your AWIC parts from?frozenboost.com. When I actually get it installed, I'll post more details. If you buy what's in that picture, you'll have interference problems with the shock tower brace.

[07FIREBLADE]

Your awic setup looks very similar to mine. Depends on your routing you could do all routing with some creativity and bov setup.

[Mechie3]

I'm using the same (I think) AWIC core, but a different heat exchanger. My routing is a bit different as well (clocking housing) to shorten up the piping. I'm (slowly) working on brackets to mount everything.

[Jaime]

I planned on pointing the three inch elbow 45 degrees down and connecting that to the reducing 45. That both pushes the AWIC up too far and is too long to let me get my BPV in before the elbow to the turbo outlet. I'm trading in the big elbow and the reducing 45 for a reducing elbow. It will give me a really compact feed to the AWIC with only about two and a half feet of total silicone. I also bought a hump reducer for the throttle body, which frozenboost doesn't carry.

I'm still experimenting with the bypass routing. Doing it neat is really expensive - a handful of silicone elbows and stainless joiners quickly add up to around $100 for just the bypass hose. I'm going to try to get away with carefully routing a 1 inch long hose around the intake manifold.

[Mechie3]

Try to position the BPV to reuse the stock hose.

[07FIREBLADE]

Already tackled that problem. Agreed it gets expensive fast.

[metalmaker12]

Aluminum tubing is another option with some bends and just couplers to attach to turbo, throttle body and awic. It will also not collapse under boost

[Jaime]

I finished the fuse box today.

Here's the box wired but empty:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140802_214835_zpsdhi3gibw.jpg
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140802_214857_zpsoalolmok.jpg

Loaded with components:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140802_220649_zpsnm5hst2h.jpg

And finally with the covers on:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140802_220843_zpsr6zdurjt.jpg

In case anyone's wondering; there's 168 wire terminations, all crimped and soldered.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Jaime
Great job with the fuse box.
A couple of questions.
Where are you going to put it?
How many hours of design work?
How many hours of assembly fab?
Are you thinking about selling them?
Bob

[Jaime]

Jaime
Great job with the fuse box.

Thanks


Where are you going to put it?

Under the right hump.


How many hours of design work?

It's hard to say. Most of the design was part of my wiring clean-up. Once I knew how many circuits and relays I needed, it only took me a few hours to figure out a layout that fit in the space available.

How many hours of assembly fab?

About 10 hours.


Are you thinking about selling them?

It crossed my mind. I have an idea for version two that I'd definitely sell. I want to make sure there's enough clearance under it before I give it too much thought. Version two would be based on a fabbed circuit board, so it would be quicker to assemble. Circuit board fab is a bit expensive for a single board, but five to ten are pretty cheap. That lends itself very well to being sold.

[sponaugle]

I finished the fuse box today.

Here's the box wired but empty:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140802_214835_zpsdhi3gibw.jpg
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140802_214857_zpsoalolmok.jpg

Loaded with components:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140802_220649_zpsnm5hst2h.jpg

And finally with the covers on:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140802_220843_zpsr6zdurjt.jpg

In case anyone's wondering; there's 168 wire terminations, all crimped and soldered.

That is sweet. Really nicely done! :)
Jeff

[metalmaker12]

Very nice!

[Jaime]

Here's what it looks like on the car...

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140803_115052_zpshv6qosea.jpg

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140803_115203_zps6pukpgyi.jpg

[AZPete]

The innovations and skills on the forum are absolutely amazing. I love this place and admit I'm addicted.

[Frank818]

Pretty nice install!
Hopefully there isn't too much heat going there, as usually fuses don't really like constant high heat, but it looks like a nice location, with a plate underneath for protection.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Pretty nice install!
Hopefully there isn't too much heat going there, as usually fuses don't really like constant high heat, but it looks like a nice location, with a plate underneath for protection.
Fuse are not that big of a deal with heat. I'd worry more about the microprocessors in the ECU, some mounted to the hot side of the fire wall.
Bob

[Jaime]

That area is the intake tract for the intercooler, so it sees a lot of fresh air. I'm not worried about impeding flow because I'm running an AWIC.

[Jaime]

Changing gears a bit - Boyd tank is placed in it's new home -

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140803_211421_zpszfzucxbv.jpg

Still awaiting fittings.

[Aero STI]

Very neat and tidy. Great work.

[Jaime]

Now that my Boyd tank is installed completely, I can fix the side cockpit aluminum.

I bought a piece of 3'x3' 0.040 aluminum a while back. First, I traced the dog shaped piece onto it:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140809_200904_zpsqjz8fzt8.jpg

Added a bit to cover the gap left by my Boyd tank:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140809_201620_zpsnvguewmb.jpg

And there we go:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140809_213543_zpslabjtixd.jpg

In my opinion, everyone should do this. If you are using a harness or the wagon belts, then the holes up by your shoulders are useless and ugly. If you are using the sedan belts, then you should change your mind and get a set of wagon belts. I couldn't make the sedan belts work properly.

[Boog]

Looks good. Do you have a picture of the wagon belts mounted?

Edit: Also, why did you decide to not have the back of the panel run vertical? It seems like it would nicely seal the tank area. Do wires/hoses get routed out the sides?

[Jaime]

On the driver's side, the brake and clutch lines go through the very bottom of that space. Mostly, I did it because it would be difficult to install if it filled the entire space.

[Jaime]

Do you have a picture of the wagon belts mounted?

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140810_223728_zps5dbv2osi.jpg

[Boog]

Cool, Thanks.

[wleehendrick]

Now that my Boyd tank is installed completely, I can fix the side cockpit aluminum.

Looks great! I wish I had done this, but I installed my side Al before ordering the Boyd tank.

[Jaime]

Looks great! I wish I had done this, but I installed my side Al before ordering the Boyd tank.
I did too. When I looked into filling the space, I found that it was easier to just replace the entire side rather than creating some sort of extension. I only spent $40 and I both fixed the tank side gap and eliminated the belt spool cover. The best part is that the final part has no bends and no internal cutouts, so anyone can do this with only a pair of tin snips.

[Jaime]

Did some more work on the cockpit rear wall today.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140816_165328_zpspvkl8uhx.jpg

I bought four feet of 3/4 square aluminum, cut it into three sections and bolted them to the steel floor from the bottom with button head screws. Then, I drilled and tapped in four places and bolted the lower rear panel down from inside. Now I can remove the panel without going under the car.

Here's the rear almost done:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140816_221154_zpszlhzuppu.jpg

All that's left is a row of rivnuts on the top edge.

[Jaime]

I had the rear aluminum bent for the Boyd tank and it fits perfect. What worked for me was to have the top piece bent 20 degrees short of 90 (110 degrees) and the bottom piece bent 10 degrees from flat (170 degrees). There's a high-end metal shop down the street from where I worked, so I had it done there - it ended up costing me $60 for two bends, but they did it on a CNC brake, so they hit the numbers I gave them perfectly.

I trimmed the bottom of the top piece right at the top of the two cutouts. It mostly lined up with the top of the center cutout, but not quite. I did this one on a table saw. If you've never tried it before, a table saw makes straight cuts in aluminum very well. Just remember eye protection and stay clear of any potential kick-back. I've made four foot long cuts in 3/4 inch thick aluminum plate in the past. I used a jig saw to cut a new center cutout.

[Jaime]

Here's my coolant tank relocator:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140819_202727_zpsnvolqsbu.jpg

Two bucks worth of bolts and spacers. If you're using the stock intercooler set up the way the manual tells you to, this will be in the way.

[Jaime]

Intercooler radiator is mounted.

I first made some spacers with 8 degree angles cut in them. Short ones for the top and longer ones for the bottom. Here's the short ones:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140818_193317_zps6ffw4nlk.jpg

I used them to mount the top tabs of the intercooler radiator to the top radiator mount tube with rivnuts.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140819_202506_zps7e3zlno6.jpg

Then on the bottom, I mounted a 3/4" steel tube with similar spacers and mounted the bottom tabs of the radiator to this tube with rivnuts.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140819_202520_zpsqof4wnln.jpg

Here's the whole thing from a bit farther out:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140819_202553_zpsa5ty5v96.jpg

[Jaime]

My first weld ever...

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140819_220330_zpsvdpf9q7e.jpg

[Frank818]

Nice weld.

Are you going to block off those side openings between the 2 rads so that the fans suck the air through the first rad instead of some of it from the sides (and top/bottom)?

[Jaime]

I don't mind if the fans don't draw through the intercooler radiator. Wayne used the same size and he said his was more than enough to do the job. I'd actually be happier if the main radiator got more fresh air.

[Frank818]

The rad is about half the size of the engine rad?

[Jaime]

Here's my mounting solution for the throttle pedal:

I started with a 2 inch aluminum angle, 3/16" thick and cut it to this:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140921_200858_zpsecfyhiiq.jpg

After a test fit, the bottom hole needed to be located lower, so I did that, squared the holes for carriage bolts and had a scrap piece of aluminum welded to the top.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140924_190211_zps7qfvuoxj.jpg

[Jaime]

Drilled holes to mount the pedal and a big hole to fit the end of the cable through:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140924_215342_zps9jeycybz.jpg

Here is a test fit of the pedal:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140924_220541_zpschruvmft.jpg

[Jaime]

Here's a view of the top after installation. I slotted a pair of stainless steel 1/4-20 nuts to hold the cable end in place.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140926_220203_zpsjidjvpfo.jpg

A view of the setup from the bottom:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140926_220225_zpshwvznqix.jpg

[Jaime]

I was worried about the clutch pivot bar with the old mount, but now, the throttle hits the fully-open stop before the top of the pedal hits the bar.

[Jaime]

In the process of relocating the console vertical support bars so I can under-mount the shifter without moving it forward.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140929_220410_zpsuyg3pfjq.jpg

[Jaime]

Extra bracing is done, now time to mount the shifter.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20140930_214717_zpso0oofwij.jpg

[TahoeTim]

Just curious, did you consider a bolt in brace? The console seems to be one area where a bolt in or rivet in brace would be adequate to replace the brace you cut out.

[Jaime]

I can't see a good place to bolt a brace in other than where I welded. Those angles on the ends could make it quite a nightmare. Besides, welding only costs a few pennies and I need practice. This is an ideal practice spot because it will be entirely covered up.

[Jaime]

I cut four three inch spacers from square stock... I think they came out close enough:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141001_195601_zpsot7szhwh.jpg

[Jaime]

Here's the finished mount:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141001_212238_zpsh5i6pnrx.jpg

[Jaime]

Installed the parking brake. It is possible to get the Subaru lever straight and looking good. Here's mine (pardon the temporary bolt):

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141002_225419_zpsuhxs4icb.jpg

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141002_225427_zpsplcdmtdg.jpg

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141002_225439_zpsteymc3ud.jpg

I see no need for a Lokar handle.

[Jaime]

I don't like the FFR way to mount the cable ends. Since I have a Boyd tank, I'm going to need an extended rear console cover and the cover is the cable mount. Also, the FFR solution has the cables on a really steep angle. Finally, the FFR design means that you have to mess with the cables if you only want to remove the cover. Here's my solution:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141004_124909_zps2okxx5wb.jpg

[AZPete]

Nice work, Jaime.

[Tamra]

Thanks for your instruction on installing the limited slip a few pages back. We just did ours today and your posts were very helpful.

[Jaime]

Glad to be of service.

[Jaime]

Getting pretty close to go-cart. A lot of little stuff to do. This afternoon's productivity was making a few brackets to keep stuff in the engine bay from rattling around:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141005_173140_zps23o2tcql.jpg

[Jaime]

The first one is for the crank vent. I used the OEM crossover tubes that are normally attached to the intercooler.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141005_173553_zps134g9fhn.jpg

[Jaime]

The second is for my fuel pressure regulator.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141005_174035_zps9mtp55sb.jpg

I don't think the rails and regulator I have are any better than OEM, but the OEM fuel delivery stuff gets in the way with those two bars crossing over the engine. By divorcing the fuel lines from the manifold, I can pull the manifold with the engine in the bay. A second bonus is that if I want to pull the engine, I can take the manifold off first, which makes it twenty times easier to get the engine out.

[Jaime]

Got my charcoal canister mounted.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141005_191212_zpszoyjbykt.jpg

I hope New York State is OK with the size of it. It was cheap and it fits great in the space available. The mounting tabs are perfect for the frame...

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141005_191410_zpsmawpjou2.jpg

It's from a 2009 Yamaha Majesty scooter.

[Rasmus]

Got my charcoal canister mounted. It's from a 2009 Yamaha Majesty scooter.
A man after my lightweight heart. I love it. Hope it passes.

[Jaime]

First start!!!!


http://vid871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141011_160728_001_zpsifsnfhkt.mp4

I have a TGV code to figure out, but it runs OK.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

First start!!!!


http://vid871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141011_160728_001_zpsifsnfhkt.mp4

I have a TGV code to figure out, but it runs OK.

Way to go Jaime. keep the pictures and videos coming. The first go kart drive can't be far off.
Bob

[Frank818]

Congrats! You are a now a proper mechanic. loll

[Hindsight]

Congrats on the first start!

Can you tell me more about your charcoal canister? Specifically, I'm curious to see how you are going to purge the canister. I've been trying to figure this out on my build and it seems that if you do away with all the fuel take sensors and values from the factory evap system, you then lose the feature of the ECU selecting the right time and pulsing vacuum to purge the canister. Obviously you wouldn't want to just run a vacuum line from the canister to the intake full time or that would end up as a gaping vacuum leak so I'm curious to see how you dealt with it.

[Jaime]

I left the purge solenoid in. I plumbed the carb outlet of the canister to the vent solenoid and left all the stuff between the solenoid and the manifold/inlet in place.

If it turns out that the ECU won't fire the solenoid, I'll rig up my own electronics. For example, I might open the purge valve for a second or two at zero throttle opening. However, I don't think any of the stuff in the evap canister would help the ECU do its thing. The drain valve and pressure sensor are there to check for leaks and I can't see how the temp sensor would factor into the decision to purge.

[Hindsight]

Thanks Jaime. When you say vent solenoid, you are talking about the one up by the engine that the ECU uses to activate the purge right? My only concern is that the ECU doesn't fire it because all the stuff on the OEM evap canister and fuel tank is missing. But if that's the case, you have a plan to rig something up..... is that something that can be custom programmed in the ECU or are you talking about creating some sort of stand-alone controller?

I'm also wondering, with a charcoal canister and a good sized vent line to it from the tank, if the issues people have mentioned regarding filling their tank (fuel pump nozzle keeps clicking off prematurely unless you fill extremely slow) will be solved.....

[matteo92065]

oh!, I like this. Ill copy it if its ok. ;)

Edit: I was responding to post #135

[Jaime]

oh!, I like this. Ill copy it if its ok. ;)

Edit: I was responding to post #135
I'm flattered, copy away.

[Jaime]

Thanks Jaime. When you say vent solenoid, you are talking about the one up by the engine that the ECU uses to activate the purge right? My only concern is that the ECU doesn't fire it because all the stuff on the OEM evap canister and fuel tank is missing. But if that's the case, you have a plan to rig something up..... is that something that can be custom programmed in the ECU or are you talking about creating some sort of stand-alone controller?

That's correct. I never considered that the ECU wouldn't trigger it - so I'm going to put an LED somewhere up front so I can keep an eye on when it's open. If it never does, then I was thinking about something stand-alone. I play with microcontrollers as a hobby.

I'm also wondering, with a charcoal canister and a good sized vent line to it from the tank, if the issues people have mentioned regarding filling their tank (fuel pump nozzle keeps clicking off prematurely unless you fill extremely slow) will be solved.....
That would be nice, but I'm not holding my breath. I'm pretty sure that the pump auto-shutoff is the real problem, and it requires a vent parallel to the fill tube, exiting above the point where the filler nozzle goes into the fill tube.

[Hindsight]

I'm pretty sure that the pump auto-shutoff is the real problem, and it requires a vent parallel to the fill tube, exiting above the point where the filler nozzle goes into the fill tube.

Sounds like an opportunity for one of the vendors ;)

[Jaime]

My intercooler now is finalized and works. Here is what I did:

Overview of the water loop:
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/IntercoolerLoop_zps59877848.png

I use the heat exchanger as the reservoir and the pump draws from it and pump water back and up to the intercooler. The return line goes to the top of the heat exchanger. This should keep the pump wet and make any air in the system collect in the heat exchanger. Bleeding is as simple as getting enough water in to prime the pump. Then run, stop, fill, repeat. I have about six quarts in the system.

[Jaime]

I used a Frozen Boost type 100 (http://www.frozenboost.com/water-to-air-heat-exchanger/air-to-water-radiator-p-1002.html) heat exchanger mounted in front of the radiator...
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141014_211215_zpscogerkt6.jpg

Hardware store plumbing fittings to turn the corner...
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141014_211229_zpsnhxxm4rn.jpg

[Jaime]

I have a Bosch pump mounted in front of the firewall...
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141014_211148_zps2fxhcywt.jpg

Lower heat exchanger outlet jumps over the steering rack in goes into the pump inlet...
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141014_211320_zpsaod3wvmr.jpg

The pump outlet does a nice gradual 180 to run alongside the cooling tube on the driver's side...
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141014_211304_zpsnsjtpgsv.jpg

[Jaime]

Here's the tubes on the side...
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141014_211338_zpsd1goyxom.jpg

And where they go up...
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141014_211351_zpskdajuhy3.jpg

[Hindsight]

Good info. At 2lbs per quart, the water only adds 12lbs. So between that and all the other added parts like plumbing and exchanger, Wayne's estimate of 30lbs or so seems spot on. Well worth it if it does the job.

[Jaime]

The hose from the pump outlet goes to the far side of the intercooler and the other intercooler fitting comes back to a fill port...
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141014_211404_zpsbxmisy6h.jpg

From the fill port, the hose goes back to the top fitting on the heat exchanger.

[Jaime]

The air path is really simple...
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141014_211415_zpsi1woltmc.jpg
Two inch silicone from the turbo outlet to a 2 to 2.5 inch 90. The bypass is on a 2.5 inch by 1 inch tee. Then into the intercooler with a 2.5 to 3 inch 90. I had to trim the two 90s down a bit to get the length I wanted.

[Jaime]

Here's a close up of the bypass...
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141014_211449_zpsls8ns7pq.jpg
I replace the brake master cylinder nipple on the manifold with a much smaller nipple and used that for my bypass vacuum source.

Here's a close up of the 3 to 2.5 inch hump connect I used the connect to the throttle body...
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141014_211459_zpsyuser7ft.jpg

[Jaime]

The mount is a simple bent piece of steel going to the piece on the transmission that holds the clutch return spring...
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141014_211516_zpsw1zf5nd2.jpg

Here's a side view to show how far the whole thing sticks up. I have about 1/2 inch between the top of the intercooler and the hatch.
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141014_211555_zpsiqabo3k7.jpg

[Jaime]

Good info. At 2lbs per quart, the water only adds 12lbs. So between that and all the other added parts like plumbing and exchanger, Wayne's estimate of 30lbs or so seems spot on. Well worth it if it does the job.
Yup. The intercooler itself is surprisingly heavy, almost 20 pounds. Regardless of the weight, I wouldn't build an 818 without an AWIC. Good thing I saved a ton of weight in wiring, it should pretty much offset this.

[Jaime]

Got my first drive in this past weekend...


http://youtu.be/BWD-FqnCvkU

[metalmaker12]

Here's the tubes on the side...
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141014_211338_zpsd1goyxom.jpg

And where they go up...
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141014_211351_zpskdajuhy3.jpg

I deff would not mount the awic lines right on the coolant lines.

[Jaime]

I think I'm going to wrap them in pipe insulation. At least they're on the cold side.

[Jaime]

Started fitting the body. This is not going to be fun.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141023_222245_zpsmvbvjkea.jpg

[Frank818]

Got any issues during your 1st drive?

[D Clary]

35033 I bought aluminum tubing from McMaster carr. welded a bead around the end to hold the hose on the tube

[Jaime]

Got any issues during your 1st drive?
Amazingly, the engine started the first time I turned the key and the first drive was uneventful. My alignment isn't good yet, but that's minor.

I did have to replace both axle seals after putting the engine in twice. I would recommend either putting the engine in with the hubs mostly unbolted and axles out of the way, then carefully slide the axles straight in. If you don't do that, make sure you have someone helping you who's only job is to guide the axle ends into the transmission.

[Jaime]

I bought aluminum tubing from McMaster carr. welded a bead around the end to hold the hose on the tube
That looks great. I have heat and an AWIC, so I have two extra lines on each side. There's a ton of room on the outboard side, but the tight space is the top and bottom at the front. I might bolt some upside down L brackets to the frame and hang the lines off that.

[Mechie3]

I'm a little late to the party. Your AWIC setup looks good. Same parts I'm using (core and HE). I like your fill port placement, simple and effective (I haven't gotten that far, but have the parts sitting around). One thing I'm going to do is tap the upper corner of the AWIC core with a fitting and route that to a third port on the fill that way it's self bleeding.

The body slowed me down quite a bit (not as much as a baby though, ha!). Read other's threads and see what they have done. One nice thing about getting slowed down is others passed me and I didn't have to figure everything out for myself. I'm using 10-32 rivnuts and bolts to hold most body parts on instead of riveting so it can be easily removed.

[RM1SepEx]

I use 10--24 rivnuts... Jaime, I think that I outlined a good simple process to mount the body and Wayne has published some great tips... I'm about to do mine again... I'm sure it will be faster than the original

[metalmaker12]

I think I'm going to wrap them in pipe insulation. At least they're on the cold side.

I am using intercooler wrap but I would separate them because between the coolant line and the hot side of the awic lines will also help heat soak. I will have my cart back together soon to display what I am doing.

It all looks nice and is coming together nicely

[Jaime]

I like your fill port placement, simple and effective (I haven't gotten that far, but have the parts sitting around). One thing I'm going to do is tap the upper corner of the AWIC core with a fitting and route that to a third port on the fill that way it's self bleeding.
Surprisingly, I didn't really need the fill port after the initial fill. Even though the radiator is under the AWIC, it doesn't spill out if I open the cap. Most of my bleeding was done by running it for a few seconds and topping off the radiator. After the second time around, the fill port stayed full but the radiator took quite a bit of coolant.

My core filled up pretty easily. I just dismounted it and sat it on top of the transmission with the water outlet port on top and ran the pump. I don't think I'm going to put a bleed valve on it.

[metros]

I love coming to this build. Very detail oriented and everything looks to be done with high quality. Congrats on go karting.

[Frank818]

10-24 rivnuts and 10-32 rivnuts. Those are smaller than the 1/4-20 provided by FFR?

[metalmaker12]

This is the wrap I am using on awic lines3505935060

[Mechie3]

Frank, yes they're smaller. About 2 bolt sizes down, though you almost never see size 12 bolts. American bolts go typically by sizes from 2,4,6,8,10 then go by fractions starting at 1/4. Went size ten to keep size and weight down. Plus there will be several in a row to bear a load vs just one or two 1/4 20s.

[Jaime]

Temporary Body Alignment Tool©®TM

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141024_213941_zps5scy7m17.jpg

[Jaime]

Here's my main problem so far:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141024_214213_zpswuask7z0.jpg

I kind of expected this, since this panel wore through the protective duct tape and the powder coat on the ride home right at this spot.

[Jaime]

I use 10--24 rivnuts... Jaime, I think that I outlined a good simple process to mount the body and Wayne has published some great tips... I'm about to do mine again... I'm sure it will be faster than the original
Been reading those thread for a while now. You guy certainly saved me from learning a lot of things the hard way.

I have a bunch of 10-32 rivnuts and button head screws. I'm also hoping I can make these work:
http://cdn3.volusion.com/9wsnr.t9nao/v/vspfiles/photos/A21098-2T.jpg?1413251710
A lot of the bodywork on my Hayabusa was held on with these and I had that up to 190mph with no problems.

[Frank818]

This is the wrap I am using on awic lines3505935060

Nice stuff!! What is it called? Emotion Heat Insulator?
I like the fact it has small width.


A lot of the bodywork on my Hayabusa was held on with these and I had that up to 190mph with no problems.

And do you think they would support heavier panels? Or simply add more, maybe.

[Jaime]

And do you think they would support heavier panels?
Yes. If done right, those things will hold on until they break.

[Frank818]

When do you plan on testing these? Might actually be a viable option for me too. But I won't touch that until a few months.

[Jaime]

Trying to get the body lined up now. I have 25 of them here, so pretty soon.

[metalmaker12]

Nice stuff!! What is it called? Emotion Heat Insulator?
I like the fact it has small width.



And do you think they would support heavier panels? Or simply add more, maybe.

Here's the stuff, on ebay or site35114

[Jaime]

I'm going a different direction on body mounting. I put all the pieces on, but none are fastened to the frame yet. I did put the bolts and rivnuts between the fenders and sides. The most important thing to me is how the pieces line up relative to each other. They'll get fastened to the car wherever they need to be to get the seams right.

Here's how they lay...

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141026_145430_zps4ugd5yqr.jpg

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141026_145441_zpstf8em2ox.jpg

[Jaime]

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141026_145454_zps0zqgbrmr.jpg

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141026_145504_zpseztb5bud.jpg

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141026_150245_zpsd3mbzcvc.jpg

[Frank818]

Wow, your body fits perfectly! How many hours you put on trimming, cutting and etc.?

Oh wait, I retract my statement, the headlights are not fitted yet, might change a lot of things, as they say. lolll

[Jaime]

That's where my strategy will pay off (I hope). Everything is where it should be right now. My headlights fit as badly as everyone else's. Next, I'm going to assemble the front end off the car and flip it over. Then, I'll trim the fender lips so the tops of the headlights match up nice and set the buckets wherever the bottoms of the headlights land.

[Hindsight]

Interesting approach. Body fitting seems to be like a rubiks cube..... Looking forward to seeing if your method makes it easier.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Jamie
I'm going to follow your method on the body. Keep us informed. I plan on starting on the body in about 2 weeks.
Bob

[Jaime]

It seems to be working well so far. Here's the outside corner of one of the headlights...

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141026_214407_zps5kbhtlgo.jpg

That's never going to fit in the bucket properly. After trimming:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141026_220212_zpscqmvyvx3.jpg

[Jaime]

First headlight is done:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141026_220126_zpsgs8bczn6.jpg

Like everyone else, I had to trim a ton off of the bottom of the fender lip.

[Frank818]

Interesting approach. Body fitting seems to be like a rubiks cube.....

Except that rubik cubes can be completed within 6-7sec... :)

[Boog]

Except that rubik cubes can be completed within 6-7sec... :)

But only after years of practice and thousands of completions. Seems like a pretty apt comparison.

[Frank818]

Boog, you're right. Then just imagine Jaime after years of practice and thousands of body panel completions. :)

[Jaime]

First side bolted into place.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141028_215748_zpshezrsfyv.jpg

I had to trim a ton of material off the bottom of the fender and drop the bucket about 3/8".

[Frank818]

You might be one the first, but certainly the first "I" have seen, bolting this up for final placement so quickly.

[Jaime]

I'm pretty happy with my panel fitment. Now it's on to finishing all of the accessories that are connected to the body. Here's my rear panel nearly ready to go.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141109_115630_zpsehosal0h.jpg

I'm still trying to figure out how to use the license plate lights with the license plate bracket. The bracket has holes toward the center for mounting, but the lights replace the plate screws. If you put the lights where they are supposed to go, the wires are on the outside of the car!

[Jaime]

Close up of wiring:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141109_125522_zpsrncfkxko.jpg

Braided split loom cable sheathing zip tied on. They are mounted to the body with Home Depot self adhesive wire tie mounts. I removed the double-sided tape and epoxied them on.

[Jaime]

Missed on one of my side-to-rear mounting holes. It's really difficult to get a drill in there, even with a 90 degree attachment and a stubby drill bit...

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141109_145703_zpsfvoheyim.jpg

[Jaime]

All the rear lights work, except the license plate light, which I haven't figured out yet. Unfortunately, here in New York, it's required to get it on the road.

[Jaime]

I'm currently trying to get it ready to pass the state inspection and get on the road. Here's what I need to do:


Third brake light (don't have one yet)
License plate light (need to figure it out)
Front lights wired up
Passenger seat installed
Dash installed
Doors installed
Windshield installed
I need to figure out my last two CEL codes. I can't seems to get EcuFlash to get rid of them
Front license plate mount
Front bumper bar under fiberglass
Rear bumper bar under fiberglass
Exhaust (I have a donor with a cat, but I have to cut it up and get it routed right, I also need a muffler)
Wipers figured out and installed
Horn installed

[metalmaker12]

You can run the license plate light off the rear lights, it the factory harness as you know there was one, that's what I used.

Extend wiper wires and just make the wipers work to pass, unless you want a permanent solution

What codes do you have?

[Jaime]

I have the wiring in place for the license plate lights - I don't know how to physically mount them. Factory five supplies lighted fasteners, but the fasteners don't fit in the supplied brackets. Even of they did, the bracket is offset from the body just enough so that the nut won't go between the bracket and body (not enough room) or inside the body (not enough threads). It's not the end of the world, but I was wondering how anyone else made this work.

I'm looking to do the wipers like Eric did, but it's still on my list to actually figure out. I know there is a few brackets to be made at a minimum.

I'm getting P0447 EVAP VENT CONTROL CIRCUIT OPEN and P1446 FUEL TANK SENSOR CONTROL CIRCUIT LOW. I have both tuned out in EcuFlash, but they won't go away. Neither are marked as memorized, so I shouldn't even need to reset it (although I did anyways).

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/Codes2_zpsb7a5cd38.png

Ignore the O2 sensor codes, those are because I didn't have those hooked up at the time.

[metalmaker12]

They won't flash out huh, what software you using, I will look into it for ya.

Not exactly sure what your talking about with plate bracket, but I prob just made it work if what they provided did not seem to work out.

[Jaime]

I tried to remove the codes in both EcuFlash and RomRaider.

[Jaime]

They won't flash out huh, what software you using, I will look into it for ya.
It turns out I didn't actually have a problem. If you turn a code off and flash the ECU, it will prevent a standard OBD-II reader from registering the code and will turn off the check engine light. But, ROMRaider Logger will display the code even if it is turned off. The only way I found to check if the flash worked is to use a cheap OBD-II reader.

[Jaime]

Exhaust is almost mocked up.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141121_211809_zpsfdxc3cng.jpg

Muffler should be coming tomorrow - hopefully it doesn't get held up by the seven feet of snow in the Buffalo area.

Slightly off topic - the weather is here bizarre. The official snowfall at the Buffalo airport was 16.9 inches. I work across the street from the airport - the office had about 6 inches. I live 12 miles north - we had two inches. Two miles south of the airport had five feet.

[Frank818]

You're in Buffalo area?
Don't worry, in a couple of days everything will be melted... and flooded!

[Jaime]

You're in Buffalo area?
Yes.

Here is a picture of the view out of my office window on Tuesday:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141118_155348_zpscli2yl60.jpg

That's not an incoming storm, it's a stationary band of snow. It looked exactly like that all day. Everyone under the dark part of the cloud got at least 60 inches of snow.

[Lumpyguy]

I am building a snow plow attachment for the 818! I will bring it down so you can demo it!?! :)

[Lumpyguy]

Oh and where did you get the braided wire covering for your harnesses?

[metalmaker12]

It turns out I didn't actually have a problem. If you turn a code off and flash the ECU, it will prevent a standard OBD-II reader from registering the code and will turn off the check engine light. But, ROMRaider Logger will display the code even if it is turned off. The only way I found to check if the flash worked is to use a cheap OBD-II reader.

Oh, I thought you were reading it with a obd scan tool also. The codes will always show up on a ROM log to just let you know what you have changed from oem settings. So whatever to tune out will show up in the logger, but you won't have cels because you are in fact bypassing the code. Great build bro, keep pushing!!

[Jaime]

Oh and where did you get the braided wire covering for your harnesses?

Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H2UKP9C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I used 1/2 inch and 1/4 inch for the wires in the picture.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Amazon (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H2UKP9C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). I used 1/2 inch and 1/4 inch for the wires in the picture.

I used similar stiff from McMaster
http://www.mcmaster.com/#1459t23/=upfvvq

http://www.mcmaster.com/#wrap-around-sleeving/=upfx2p

[Jaime]

Fabbed up an exhaust last night.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141126_012930_zpsvmlyoahi.jpg

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141126_012918_zpsxnvxo4sc.jpg

It's not as close to the ground as it looks. I still need to make some hangers for it. It's made from a catted downpipe donated by a friend, some 3 inch stainless bends, and a Magnaflow XL 14-inch muffler.

It's on the louder side for a street exhaust, but not too loud.

[Jaime]

Oh... here's where the O2 senor goes:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141126_013036_zpsujwbqksj.jpg

[Frank818]

Jaime, I was under the impression that anything lower than the tranny support (piece that goes on the rear bumper) would be under the diffuser and body parts. Or maybe cuz the exhaust tip is on the side there is more space and it doesn't go outside the body part?

[Jaime]

The tip is five inches above the ground, so it should be at the lower edge of the side of the bumper. I'm trying for a no-cut solution, but there is a chance it will look funky. If it does, I'll cut the pipe at the lowest point of the bend and rotate it up to where it looks better.

Right now, my constraint is that I have to take the exhaust to my friend's place with the equipment to weld stainless. As soon as I get it registered, I can drive it over there and make adjustments much more easily. Fit, mark, drive, weld, drive, test is a difficult way to build an exhaust.

[Boog]

I've seen it posted that the oxygen sensors have a longer life (or maybe just don't prematurely fail?) if they are pointed horizontally or downward. I think its so they don't collect water when not in use. Any concerns?

[Jaime]

That's pointing straight back, maybe 30 degrees down. I hadn't thought of it before, so I'll ask around a bit - thanks.

[Jaime]

Got some pre-Thanksgiving work done. I finally have the headlights where I want them, so I wired the front end up. I made a separate harness for the front so it can come off easily.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141127_131859-1_zpsdxooaltf.jpg

Here's the 8 pin connector that feeds the entire front end.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141127_131910-1_zpsxh1rlhhx.jpg

The wires go under the bumper to the right side:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141127_131917-1_zpsybqcf3km.jpg

Right side:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20141127_131926-1_zpsicesa6mk.jpg

[Frank818]

I have a bunch of 10-32 rivnuts and button head screws. I'm also hoping I can make these work:
http://cdn3.volusion.com/9wsnr.t9nao/v/vspfiles/photos/A21098-2T.jpg?1413251710


Jaime, what are these called?
I would want to use them in the cockpit area for every part that I plan on removing someday, like the console and tunnel.

[Jaime]

Body clips. There is a huge assortment at Clips and Fasteners (http://www.clipsandfasteners.com)

[Frank818]

I found also "door trim panel plastic retainers", it pours on ebay as well, it's a mess! But on McMaster it doesn't seem to. I'll check on Clips and Fasteners and ebay. Tnx!

[Jaime]

I re-did my parking brake cable mount. I was at the end of the adjustment range so I needed to tighten the cables by another 3/4". While I was at it, I flipped the cable mount to the bottom.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20150101_215256_zpsg2mcqtwq.jpg

[Jaime]

Haven't done a whole lot of work lately, it's been too cold in the garage. I did get my wagon seatbelts finalized:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20150105_200430_zpstuuhcwwq.jpg

I had to flip the webbing on the spools to get it to sit right.

[Jaime]

I'm almost done with a third brake light solution.

I started with a card board template of the area under the trunk lip on the rear fiberglass:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20150118_134719_zpsgfj8e2z7.jpg

I cut some 1/8th inch steel using the template and curved it a bit.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20150118_134733_zpss4ptv17q.jpg

Tapped three 10-32 holes in it:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20150118_214150_zps5hurasrx.jpg

[Jaime]

Glued the steel under the lip with Devcon 14340 adhesive. The Devcon applicator is less than $30 at McMaster-Carr.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20150119_200859_zpsceh090c7.jpg

I then cut a thin slot just below the steel to start the opening.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20150119_215606_zpsvppybgg4.jpg

And opened the slot up the fit some acrylic sheet I had lying around:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20150122_184955_zpsgwqmd3o1.jpg

Inside view - the slot is right under the steel:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20150122_185119_zps4fxt3s1x.jpg

[Jaime]

Used the same template to cut out a chunk of acrylic:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20150122_185442_zpstjx8q1cr.jpg

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20150122_193043_zpss5bcwhid.jpg

Rounded the edge of the protrusion:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20150122_193053_zpspibygr5i.jpg

[Jaime]

Did a test fit, made sure the opening was right and trimed the protrusion close to where it will end up:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20150122_203557_zpsbxb1sxlw.jpg

Here it is screwed in place:

Inside:
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20150122_210652_zpsqxzbgt22.jpg
Outside:
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20150122_210728_zpsxheuwc75.jpg

[Jaime]

Sanded the surface of the acrylic flush with the body and polished the front and back surfaces:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20150123_221608_zpsfnot2dyu.jpg

Sprayed the top and bottom with mirror finish paint to minimized light leakage:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20150124_122357_zps0kicq88p.jpg

Siliconed on an LED strip from eBay (http://www.ebay.com/itm/171418352727?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT):

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20150124_131717_zpsohbzerd3.jpg

[Jaime]

Went over everything except the front edge with another layer of mirror followed by a rubberized coating:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20150125_144813_zpsz0dj8fzy.jpg

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20150125_144826_zpsnifbfrpq.jpg

Here it is lit up with a 9V battery:
http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20150125_144910_zpskj8yrxui.jpg
It will be brighter powered by 13.6V, but it's actually not that bad in person at 9V.

[Hendow]

Hi Jamie,

Looks like we are jumping through the same hoops, just on opposite sides of the planet...!

Just some food for thought for you with respect to the wiper installation. Below are some photos of mine, which uses a standard WRX mechanism that has been chopped and remounted onto a custom bracket, which also doubles as a bonnet (sorry 'hood') riser. As a result, very little of the flange on the rear of the hood needed to be trimmed for clearance.
3809038091

and a vid:


http://youtu.be/uiW79IYj2qU

[Jaime]

Thank you very much. I will be tackling wipers very soon.

[STiPWRD]

Jaime, where did you get your wiring cover? I remember you posted a link a while back, just can't find it anywhere. Thanks

[Jaime]

This stuff? (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H2UKP9C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

38108 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H2UKP9C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

[STiPWRD]

This stuff?

38108 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H2UKP9C/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Right, how much should I get? Is this the stuff?

http://www.amazon.com/TechFlex-Woven-Wiring-Covering-F6W0-50BK/dp/B00C1O7SO4

[Jaime]

Sorry, the link didn't work in my previous post, I fixed it. There are two variants, the red-logo F6 and a green-logo, also called F6, version. The green stuff is a bit more expensive and has higher heat tolerance, I used that for wires near the engine. I've gone through about 20 feet of 1/2 inch and 20 feet of 1/4 inch so far. I stripped my entire harness, so I have a lot more bare wire than some.

[STiPWRD]

Thanks a lot, I'll check those out. I also stripped my entire harness.

[Jaime]

The third brake light looked a bit thin to me after I got it in, so I did it again with 3/8 acrylic...

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20150201_170002_zpswvhkuw0j.jpg

Here's how it looks installed:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20150201_171355_zps4h5wb1h0.jpg

I still have to clean up the opening a bit and wait for the new LED strip to come in.

[Frank818]

This is the bracket that will hold the strip on?

[Jaime]

LED strip will be siliconed to the inside of the lens. The lens bolts up to the bracket, which is glued to the body.

[Jaime]

My car "looks finished", but I still have a lot of detail work to do. Here is where it's at right now:

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20150510_183758_zpshd2zzqns.jpg

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20150510_183813_zps7cjv8mne.jpg

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20150510_183828_zpsb5k9ymtt.jpg

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20150510_183843_zps9dehp9lv.jpg

[Jaime]

I got these parts, guess what I'm making.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20150511_192930_zps3xfxbv5j.jpg

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I got these parts, guess what I'm making.

http://i871.photobucket.com/albums/ab273/jaime398/818%20Build/20150511_192930_zps3xfxbv5j.jpg

Jaime,
Your Car is looking great.
I suspect you are making some kind of hood hinge.
Bob

[Jaime]

Bingo. I'm go to try to make one of these:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=diJsL0tJyxQ