Roadster Rear Axle Questions

[frankb]

I have been reviewing the posts on the roadster forum looking for information on the necessity of welded axle tubes on the 8.8 rear end. I plan a mainly road driver build with a 351 C stroker (408 CI). I have a '95 Mustang 8.8 Trac-Loc axle with the factory 28-slpine axles for this build. My questions are: Will the 28-spline axles be strong enough? Is there a compelling reason to weld the axle tubes to the center section?

[aspbite]

I also have a Cleveland build going on. While the chassis shop had my housing for narrowing to the pin drive width I had mine welded just for piece of mind. Also, since the housing ends get cut off, I had ford 9 inch housing ends welded on. They were the same price as the replacement 8.8 ends, with a much better bearing setup. I don't like the idea of the axle playing the role of inner bearing race. This also eliminates the c clip and the potential for weakening the axle . I'm using 31 spline axles. I also had them weld the traction loc brackets. Probably overkill for a street car, but I know I'll be doing a lot of hole shots, possibly with drag radials or slicks. For me it was a no brain-er since I'm starting from a bare housing and the costs for all the upgraded parts were virtually the same as the stock 8.8 replacement parts. Which rear suspension are you using? Good luck with your build. P.M. me sometime if you want to compare notes.

[Mike N]

Frank. If you are planning a street car with street radials I wouldn't worry about welding the axle tubes. I purposely marked my axle tubes when I built the car and they haven't moved yet after dozens of 1/4 mile passes and 100's of Auto X runs. I do use sticky tires but do not dump the clutch. I am using 28 spline axles still but they are not the factory axles. When I did the 5 lug conversion I replaced the Ford axles with Dutchman units which are much beefier. Again no issues in more than 10 years of fun.

However if there is a chance that you may someday slap a set of drag slicks on there and launch at 3000 rpm+ on a sticky track then welding the tubes is cheap. Oh, and if you think you might just do that then better upgrade to 31 splines axles too.

[frankb]

Thanks for the advice, gentlemen. I'll probably go ahead with the welding since I will be stripping the case for sand blasting and powder coating anyway and it seems like its just a good bit of insurance. I also believe that I'll stick with the 28-spline axles, but with a beefed up set as Mike N suggested.

Another question: The "banana bracket" (upper link) in the 3-link setup comes as a bolt in item. Would it be better to have this bracket welded on?

[DaleG]

Another question: The "banana bracket" (upper link) in the 3-link setup comes as a bolt in item. Would it be better to have this bracket welded on?

Yes, better.

[Mike N]

Agreed, weld the bracket on. While you are welding box in the the two side plates of the banana bracket with a plate back and front. There have a been a couple of cases where the bracket has buckled under load.

[frankb]

Thanks for the advice. I will heed it and box the bracket.

[Plebeian]

Frank, like Mike I went with aftermarket 28 spline axles (25%+ stronger). I bought the VPM upgrades to beef up the 3 link. Drag radials and 600 rwhp has held up fine. No slicks though. Cheers.