Stuff between engine and tranny

[Bren]

I know next to nothing about specing out everything needed to hook up the engine and transmission (bellhousing, clutch, flywheel, throwout bearing, starter, etc.). My engine will be a 427W and I plan on going with a TKO-600 for street use. I'd like to know what my options are (e.g., single vs. dual plate clutch) and what the advantages/disadvantages are in addition to what to look for in brands, materials of construction, etc. I tried performing a search on the forums for this info, but didn't come up with anything. Is there a good source out there?

[Bob Cowan]

You're going to get a lot of opinions on what clutch is best. And a lot of it depends on what you plan on doing.

A lot of people claim the Centerforce dual friction is junk, and should never be used. But I used it for years with good results - light pedal feel, good control, and no slipping.

One day I broke the pressure plate. The actual hat broke (Who does that?). So I wanted to upgrade the clutch with a stronger set up. The recommendation from a lot of folks was the Ram HD. When I got that home, I discovered it uses exactly the same hat. Exactly. Right down to the tool marks. I was disappointed, but installed it anyway.

The Ram HD has a heavier pedal, and shudders a bit when cold. But once warmed up it engages smoothly. And you get used to the slightly higher pedal pressure.

If I were to replace it again today I'd use a Spec 2.5, since they make their own hats and they are supposedly made for racing.

If I were building a street car with very limited track use, I'd install another Centerforce dual friction.

A dual disc clutch has some advantages for racing use, but no real advantages for the street. They're extremely expensive (like $1,200). If not set up properly, they can be more like an on-off switch. Unless you're well over the 800hp mark, I wouldn't use one.

[Kevin Kearney]

I would talk to Mike Forte or Ford Racing.

Kevin

[2FAST4U]

What Bob Cowan said

[DaleG]

I would talk to Mike Forte or Ford Racing.

Kevin

Or Gordon Levy.

[seagull81]

Both those guys support the forum and are willing to help us. Use them if you can.

[edwardb]

As Bob said, you're going to get a lot of opinions on this one. There aren't any completely right answers. What works for you (and your budget) is what you should do. My experience:

Bellhousing: Strongly suggest going with an aftermarket bell. I used a QuickTime on my Mk4 build, and was really impressed. It's a quality piece and fits perfectly. Run out was well within tolerance. It comes with the block plate, dowels, bolts, and clutch pivot.

Clutch: Again, lots of choices. Basically you need to match the HP/torque rating of the clutch with your engine setup. Ram, Spec, McLeod, Centerforce all come to mind. For your intended use and power, don't think you need anything exotic. As already stated, the Centerforce dual friction clutch is a nice piece. Able to handle high HP with pretty light clutch pressure. But they are expensive, and reviews are mixed. I went with a McLeod Super Street Pro on my Mk4 build. Not on the road yet, but so far I'm very pleased with the pedal pressure using a hydraulic setup from Forte.

Flywheel: Many will tell you to go with an aluminum flywheel. Makes a very responsive setup, but (again) for your intended use not sure it's necessary. I went with a Ford Racing billet steel flywheel. Kind of compromise between aluminum and the stock cast flywheel.

Throwout bearing: Most clutches come with one. If you have to buy one, I would go with a Ford Racing part. Seems to be decent quality. Same for the pilot bearing. The Ford Racing pilot bearing I bought was actually marked "Made in U.S.A." Imagine that. Seemed to be a decent piece.

Starter: Nothing particularly exotic required here either. A decent mini-starter from your local parts store should be fine. Get one with a warranty and you don't have to worry about it. The main issue is to wire it properly (short leads, good ground, etc.) vs. having a high end unit.

As mentioned, I would strongly suggest looking at a hydraulic setup for your clutch. Once installed abd bled, should be trouble free and gives the lowest effort and smooth action. Forte's knows what works on our cars. Just explain your setup to him.

Good luck!

[CraigS]

I ordered a Spec for my new engine build. Look around the website to get somewhat familiar w/ their products but then call them. The guy I talked to was super knowledgeable and came up w/ an option I had not seen. The Windsors can use either a 10 or 10.5 clutch depending on the bellhousing and he was very good at figuring that out for me.

[Avalanche325]

One part that often does not get mentioned is the pilot bearing. It goes in the crankshaft.
Flywheel. Ford Racing billet ones are nice. Some people use lightweight, but that can contribute to trailer hitching. CHECK THE THREADS. Ford Racing ones are metric.
Clutch / Pressure plate. As you can see, lots of opinions. A popular one around here is RAM.
Clutch fork. Pretty basic part. I used a Summit one.
Throwout bearing.
Belhousing. I would recommend an aftermarket one also. Quicktime is nice and fits perfectly. Lakewood flanges can hang down too low.
Back plate or block plate. Comes with Quicktime. Not sure about others.
Cable or Hydraulic? Pretty much religion. You can do lots of reading on that. I stayed with cable. It is firm but not harsh with a RAM clutch.
Starter. I would highly recommend a mini-starter. DB Electrical is a good place to get one at a very good price.
Like mentioned above, there are dowels that go into the block. also dowels in the flywheel. You will also need bolts for the flywheel, pressure plate, and transmission.

[Mike6568]

Both those guys support the forum and are willing to help us. Use them if you can.

Ditto, I personally used Mike Forte and he was very good to work with and took the time to explain what would work best for me. So far I've purchased items from eight of the supporting vendors and all have gone above and beyond my expectations, use these guys whenever you can.