My Daytona Coupe Build... Ten Years in the Making [Archive] - Page 2

Carlos C

01-29-2017, 10:26 PM

Now that the holidays are over, it's time to get back on the project collecting dust in my garage. I decided that I will leave the dashboard alone for now, as I need the interior chassis panels to be in place for me to be able to continue with the fabrication of the custom center console. With that said, this project has been sitting in my garage for so long, that it has collected a lot of dust and grime. Therefore, the first order of business is to clean the frame, chassis panels, and body.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63377&d=1485745397
My neighbor helped me remove the body off the frame and I marked all the chassis panels against the frame and against the other panels.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=63378&d=1485745397
Once all the panels were marked, I took reference photos and removed them. Once the frame and panels are washed, I will officially start the build.

I still have not decided on the different finishes (i.e.: undercoating, lizard skin, etc.) I will be using, and what powder-coating color for the panels, but I need to make up my mind in the next few days.

Carlos

wallace18

01-30-2017, 06:12 AM

It is good to see you get back at the Type 65!

Carlos C

03-30-2017, 01:18 AM

After weeks of medical appointments, vacations, and other personal commitments, I'm finally back in the garage to start actually building this thing. I've decided what color and purchased the powder for the aluminum panels: Single Stage Reflective Chrome. This color, once baked, it actually looks like stainless steel, which is the look I'm going for. I also think I've finally decided on the color for the car itself. I just got back from Daytona Bike Week, and Harley-Davidson had a huge display of new bikes with new colors. The color that immediately attracted me was what they call "Charcoal Denim". I plan to use that color with gloss black for the stripes and trim. Unfortunately, I didn't take a photo of the bike with this color on it, but it is a semi-gloss charcoal color. Anyone interested in finding out what it actually looks like, you can easily Google it.

I started with the front suspension, and immediately I ran into issues. The front right upper control arm would not bolt on due to an interference between the control arm's shaft and the frame's front 3/4" square tubing. After taking numerous measurements, I figured out that the 3/4" tubing, regardless of the frame jig used at FFR, was welded slightly off. Since I have Mustang donor spindles, I'm supposed to use the holes on top of the control arm brackets. When I called FFR, they asked for photos (same photos you see below). Dan replied via email and stated that he would be sending their FFR spindles. This way, I could use the side mounting holes and eliminate this interference issue. Hopefully, the square tubing won't be an issue when mounting the radiator, its hardware and panels, or the hood.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65791&d=1490850438
As seen on this photo, the UCA's shaft hits the square tubing. On the driver side, the UCA barely cleared, but the front grease fitting actually hits this tubing when raised high enough.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65792&d=1490850438
Here's a close-up of the interference, showing that the front mounting hole has a misalignment of about 1/4". As of today, I received a confirmation that the FFR spindles were picked up from the factory this afternoon (two days after I received the email). According to FED-EX, I'm expected to receive the parts on Saturday. That would be nice, as I'd like to finish the front suspension and brakes this weekend and move on to other items.

Another issue I encountered right away was with the rear spring perches. I'm using some of my donor Mustang's 4-link race suspension, so the spring perches were necessary. According to the assembly manual (I have a June 2016 revision) and the drawing shown therein (which is of a Roadster, not a Coupe), there two 1/2" holes the customer needs to drill through the 2" x 3" square tubing. Unfortunately, due to the roll cage and the design of the perches' brackets, this is impossible for one bolt on each perch. The only solution I found was to terminate the one bolt on each perch, which would interfere with the roll cage, inside the square tubing itself, as shown on the photo below. I sent this same photo to the engineers at FFR, and asked if they ever encountered this issue before, after producing this kit for 16 years, and if so, why the manual or the perches have not been corrected. Also, considering that the reason they want you to bolt the perch through the tubing is for rigidity (strength), I asked how much rigidity I was sacrificing by bolting the perches the way I did. The answer I received left me, to say the least, confused. I was told that they've never seen or heard of this issue before, due to not many customers having used the donor's 4-link set-up on the Coupe, but that after looking at the photo, I had installed the perches correctly. This seemed like a contradiction; if they've never seen this before, how could they know or tell me that I had done this correctly? Also, I find it hard to believe that after 16 years no one ever came across this problem, not even themselves. After all, they designed these parts and built the prototypes. Additionally, they never answered my question regarding the perch's rigidity.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65790&d=1490850437
Here's the final set-up, after I realized that there was no way I could follow the manual. Hopefully, this will be strong enough to handle the axle's motions.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65788&d=1490850436
Here's the partially assembled front suspension, after I re-positioned the UCAs. I also installed the coil-over struts and LCAs, greased and torqued everything.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65789&d=1490850436
The springs are installed onto the perches, the quad shock brackets are installed, along with the limiting cables. In the background sits the rear end, completely assembled minus the brakes, ready to be installed onto the frame.

Carlos

wallace18

03-30-2017, 06:16 AM

Good to see you back at it!

Carlos C

03-31-2017, 10:06 PM

Thanks, Tom.

Today, I had to perform some much needed maintenance on my primary vehicle, which took most of the day. The few hours left, were spent installing the rear end onto the frame by myself. Thankfully, I have a hydraulic motorcycle jack, which made this a breeze. Bolted and torqued it down after greasing the few polyurethane bushings (half of the arms connections are by spherical bearings), attached the travel-limiting cables, although I had to change their location (more on that later); and installed the vertical and quad shocks.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65820&d=1491010986
The rear end hanging from the frame, just waiting for brakes, which will be done by the end of the weekend. The UCAs are double adjustable, which let me set the pinion angle without having to disconnect them. One end uses spherical bearings. The pigtail hanging from the third member cover is the electrical connector for the electro-magnetic traction-lok. Once the switch is turned on, the differential becomes a spool. This is awesome for drag racing. This rear end came off my 1988 Mustang 5.0. It's been heavily modified with Moser 31-spline, 5-lug axles; C-clip eliminators, 3.73:1 gears, the aforementioned electro-magnetic traction-lok by Auburn Gear called ECTED , Ford SVO aluminum cover, and disc-conversion brakes by SSBC.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65821&d=1491010986
If you're knowledgeable with the assembly manual, you may have noticed that the travel-limiting cable is not bolted in the correct position, according to the instructions. If you look at my last post, you'll see that I had it bolted in the correct location. Here's the issue: FFR provides LCA axle brackets, on which the Mustang or the FFR shocks mount to. The mounting location for the shocks using these FFR-provided brackets are a few inches lower than the Mustang; and that's also where the cable mounts to. I have aftermarket LCAs, which came with their own custom axle brackets (see photo below), which relocate the LCAs, but not the shocks; I still use the Mustang shock brackets in the stock location. This means that when the rear end rests on the cables, it will sit a couple of inches lower than with the FFR set-up. That wouldn't seem like a big deal, except that I'm also using aftermarket Mustang lowering springs, so when the rear end is resting on the cables, the springs are not even making contact with the LCAs... Not good. I had to move the cables in order to pick up the extra slack, along with a couple of other options, which I'll explain below.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65819&d=1491010985
Here's a close-up of the HPM racing lower control arm and custom axle bracket. This bracket has to be used in conjunction with the LCA. As mentioned above, besides relocating the cables, I had to perform a few other changes to the suspension, in order to make sure that the springs always keep contact with the LCAs. This suspension set-up came with the white urethane spacers you see on the photo. I did not need to use them on the Mustang, but I put them on here to pick up the slack between the arms and springs. I can only use a maximum of two per arm, which is what I have done here. They did the job for the time being. Once the body is on and all the weight of the vehicle is on it, I'll make a determination as to whether I'll use all of the spacers. The brackets have two positions for the arms, which not only affect height, but most importantly, affect performance. As of now, I have the suspension set up for track, but I can change it later, along with the spacers. Also, FFR made the spring perches in a way so the springs can be adjusted for height. Therefore, I have a few options for height adjustment. By the way, the LCAs are adjustable for length, so I can set the wheels further back on the vehicle. They also have spherical bearing on one end, in order to help prevent binding.

Hopefully, the spindles from FFR will arrive tomorrow and I will be able to work on the front and rear brakes this weekend.

Carlos

Carlos C

04-01-2017, 11:30 PM

I received the FFR spindles this morning, but no hubs. That was no mistake, as the parts list sheet had them crossed out; however, they sent me the hubs' hardware. Weird... Obviously, I need to transfer my donor's hubs to the FFR spindles.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65856&d=1491103136
Besides having to swap the hubs to the new spindles (the two on the right), these new spindles did not come powder-coated, which lead me to break out my powder-coating gun, turn my oven on, and go to town. These FFR spindles also made the donor spindle brackets, which came with the kit, obsolete. My box of FFR parts I won't be using is getting fuller.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65858&d=1491103137
This is the whole donor's rear brake system I had purchased from SSBC when I swapped axles in favor to the 5-lug variety. This is basically the '98 Cobra rear brake system.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65857&d=1491103136
I installed the rear brake system by properly cleaning the rotors, greasing the brake pads' backing plates, assembling the brake lines, and torqueing all the bolts. I then rotated the differential to make sure there was no binding or resistance, besides the slight drag felt from the pads sliding on the rotors.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=65855&d=1491103135
Then, I attached the emergency brake cables to the calipers and to the frame brackets. I have a couple of extra cable brackets I stole from my donor, which I will be strategically placing on the frame, in order to keep the cables away from the suspension moving components. Lastly, I assembled the donor's anti-sway bar. This completes the rear suspension.

Next, I will be assembling and installing the new spindles, the front brake system, the aforementioned emergency brake cable brackets, and filling the differential with gear oil and friction modifier. In order to complete the front suspension, I plan to purchase and install FFR's anti-sway bar.

Carlos

Carlos C

04-05-2017, 09:34 PM

I just keep running into issues regarding the front suspension, due to a badly welded frame tubing. After installing the FFR spindles and my donor hubs to it, I realized that I had wasted hours of work. The FFR spindles are not compatible with my donor brakes. The FFR spindles can only handle up to 11" rotors/calipers. My donor brakes are from SSBC and are 13" rotors/calipers. This brake system came with a caliper mounting bracket for the SN95 spindle (which is what I have), but due to the design of the FFR spindles, this bracket is not compatible with their spindles. See photos below.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66089&d=1491442695
SSBC caliper mounting bracket, specifically made for the Mustang to work with their 13" calipers.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66092&d=1491442695
SSBC caliper mounting bracket mounted on the SN95 spindle.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66091&d=1491442695
SSBC bracket not fitting onto the FFR spindles.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66090&d=1491442695
Close-up of the FFR spindle's interference with the SSBC bracket.

After a few email exchanges with photos, I was given two viable options:
1. Bend the front frame tubing which originally created the interference between the UCA and the frame, and go back to using my donor's spindles and attach the UCAs on the upper mounting locations. This option makes me uneasy as although I asked for detailed information on how to properly bend this tubing without damaging it, I was not giving any. And any bends on this tubing could result in misalignments later on with the aluminum chassis panels for the radiator, or worse yet, the brackets which attach to the nose, although I was promised they would be no such issues. Well, I should've never had any issues installing a simple UCA to its bracket, but yet here I am.

2. Spend an additional $921 to purchase FFR's brake system designed to work with their spindles. I have two problems with this option:
a. Their brake system is not up to par compared to mine. Theirs are 11" rotors, non-drilled and non-slotted, with 2-piston calipers. My brakes are 13" zinc-plated, slotted rotors, with 4-piston aluminum calipers. Let's note that my engine makes over 600 RWHP. I need to make sure I have a set of brakes that can stop the car at any given moment and resist fade when hot, especially when racing.
b. Why should I spend almost $1K for a brake system, in addition to what I've already spent in options, in order to rectify a situation which is not my fault?

I do have a third option: I may carefully cut this frame tubing at the welds on the X-member, install the UCA, place a few spot welds on the tubing after repositioning to clear the UCA, remove the UCA, finish welding the tubing, and powder-coat the section where the coating was removed. After that, I'll re-assemble the suspension and FINALLY install the brakes.

Either way, I've already WASTED too much time changing parts, assembling, disassembling and re-assembling; emailing FFR back and forth, just to end up going nowhere with this. It's very frustrating when you spend so many hours working on this vehicle, and then step back to look at it, just to see absolutely no progress.

Well, we'll see what option I decide to go with...

Carlos

Carlos C

04-11-2017, 01:53 AM

No decision yet on what I'll do regarding the front suspension fiasco, but I have a friend of mine, who has good connections within FFR, coming over my house in a couple of days to look at the issue and then communicate it to some key personnel there. In the meantime, I decided to move onto other parts of the build, specifically the pedal box and driver side foot box. While doing these, I've also included some custom work, which I'm describing below.

First of all, I attached an adjustable brake master cylinder pushrod, and re-installed an aftermarket 3-position quadrant to the pedal box (I've already had the FFR-required mods done much earlier to the pedal box). I powder-coated the driver side front foot box panel on the outside, and treated it with undercoating on the inner side, and temporarily attached it to the frame with cleckos. I'll be installing heat-deflective matting to, and fabricating a heat shield for this panel shortly.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66271&d=1491889871
Besides the FFR-required modifications to the donor's accelerator pedal, I felt that other modifications were needed to the pedal pad. Once I mounted the gas pedal, I didn't like the static angle of the pad or the lack of pad movement; therefore, I cut a section of plastic backing off the pad and re-installed the pedal. The feeling on my foot was much better. The resting angle of the pad was more natural, and due to the improved pad movement, the comfort level increased.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66273&d=1491889872
I'm accustomed to having a dead pedal on my vehicles, so I made sure to remove the one off my donor. I fabricated a steel bracket which bolts to the frame and to the dead pedal. In this photo, the bracket has been tested for fitment and function; it has even been contoured to match the outside foot box panel.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66272&d=1491889872
Here, the bracket has been powder-coated, and after the outside chassis panel was installed, the two holes for the dead pedal mounting bracket were drilled through the panel, and the dead pedal re-installed.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66274&d=1491889873
I re-installed the pedal box and installed the bottom foot box panel, in order to test all the pedals for comfort, safe distance between each pedal, and overall aesthetics. Although the pedals in this photo look crooked and/or that there's a disparity in distance between them, that is because of the different sitting positions at the time the photo was taken (none of the pedals are attached to their cables yet). Once the pedals end up in their final resting positions, they'll be evenly spaced from each other, except for the dead pedal, which will have a slightly larger gap. Not bad for a confined and small foot box. Finally, I powder-coated clear all the aluminum pedal pads. This way, I won't have to continuously polish them.

Carlos

Carlos C

04-15-2017, 03:38 AM

I've been working on the steering system during the last couple of days, while also researching parts for future sub-projects and sections of the build. In the meantime, one of my good friends, who also is a mainstay on this site and with FFR, came over this week to look at my issue regarding the front suspension. After trying different things, talking options, taking pictures and measurements, and troubleshooting, we both came to the same conclusion that there are only two options; therefore, he's talking to FFR about it and hopefully, they'll rectify this soon.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66384&d=1492241107
Although I coated the inside of the foot box's front panel with rubberized undercoating, I also attached sound deadening/cooling matting. I will be doing this with all the chassis panels which attach to cabin, before I lay the carpet down. To those panels which are closest to the exhaust, I will also attach an extra 1/2" thick reflective cooling matting.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66383&d=1492241106
I made a custom aluminum heat shield which got powder-coated on the front, coated with rubberized undercoating and had matting applied on the back, and then attached to the front panel with six #10 bolts, nylocks, and #10 x 1/2" aluminum spacers. This should also help deflect heat from the headers, along with everything else applied - and what will be applied - to the panel. The passenger side will receive the same treatment. I also installed the accelerator pedal cable to the frame and pedal.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66387&d=1492241108
The upper steering shaft is installed, along with the pillow block/bearing and the front foot box steering bearing. All hardware has been tightened down. As seen on the photo, I plan to use the Mustang's clutch safety lock-out switch.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66386&d=1492241108
Besides performing the usual mods to the Mustang's power steering rack, such as cutting 1 3/4" of the inner tie rods and adding the rack extensions, I decided to convert mine to a manual rack, as I don't have the real estate on my engine to install its hydraulic pump. Although FFR's instruction states to remove the hydraulic hoses off the rack and leave the orifices open to the environment, or install plugs with drilled holes, I decided to instead attach hose fittings where the hydraulic hoses used to be and run a rubber hose between the two fittings. This way, the system will remain sealed from dirt and water. Once I had the rack installed in the frame and on the steering shaft, I made turns using the steering shaft (without a steering wheel) and it turned very smoothly without any resistance. I may cut that hose in half later, add a T-fitting, and attach a vent hose, if it seems like that may help.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66385&d=1492241107
I renewed the steering rack's mount bushings and installed onto the frame while inserting the lower steering shaft into the rack's input shaft, using the '87 - '93 Mustang's steering coupler, and then torqued the mounting bolts. I then attached the inner tie rods, rubber boots and outer tie rods. All that's left to do is to attach the outer tie rods to the spindles and do a preliminary toe-in alignment, but I have to wait until the suspension issue is settled before I can do that.

I made a long list of fuel system items I need to replace, not to mention that I'll need to fabricate a big mounting bracket for my Aeromotive A-1000 fuel pump, in order to place it in the only place it'll fit near the fuel tank (the bracket I had fabricated for my Mustang won't work). The placement of the fuel pump most likely will mean that the stock placement of the battery won't work any longer. I may have to do away with FFR's battery tray, come up with a design and fabricate a battery box, in order to place it at a different location under the trunk. There are also a couple of miscellaneous brake parts I want to replace and/or add to my system in order to upgrade it. Once I get my credit card all warmed up, I'll get going on the next segment of the build: cabin chassis panels.

Carlos

wallace18

04-15-2017, 05:56 AM

Looking Good!

Carlos C

04-20-2017, 12:23 AM

Thanks, Tom.

While still trying to resolve the front suspension issue, I've been moving into the cockpit chassis panel section of the build. I basically temporarily mounted both foot boxes, the firewall, along with the A/C evaporator/heater unit. The purpose was to figure out where the A/C, heater, and drain lines would be routed inside the passenger foot box and through the panels. Once that was decided, and the grommets were chosen, the locations were marked, templates made, and holes cut on the panels, either by using a single hole saw or a combination or hole saws and shears. Then, all the grommets were tested for proper fitment, and the blank grommets were drilled for multiple lines. Once that side project was completed, those panels were removed and set aside.

Next, I decided to fabricate a custom removable firewall panel which mounts directly behind the engine, under the actual firewall. The reason for this panel is to mount items such as the fuel pressure regulator, starter solenoid, ignition coil, etc.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66634&d=1492663523
I inserted rivnuts into the frame. This will allow me to remove the panel at any time, in order to conduct maintenance or replacement of any of the attached items.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66635&d=1492663523
This is the custom fabricated panel bolted onto the frame using SS hardware. Besides attaching the items to it (which will happen much later in the build), I still need to powder-coat it.

Now, I need to mark, drill, powder-coat, undercoat, silicone, rivet, and mat a lot of chassis panels...

Carlos

Carlos C

04-23-2017, 12:46 AM

I dedicated the day on finishing the fabrication of heat shields, so I can start riveting panels together.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66765&d=1492924049
Here's the passenger side foot box before the alteration. Notice the holes cut on the front and inside panels. Those are for the A/C lines and heater hoses.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66764&d=1492924048
The fabricated heat shields are done and mounted to the foot box. The reason I installed the urethane engine block and headers was to take measurements and make sure that the shields would have clearance from the exhaust once mounted to the panels.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66763&d=1492924047
Finished the driver side by fabricating the last heat shield, which shows on the photo installed on the inside panel.

I can finally concentrate on powder-coating and permanently attaching panels to the chassis, with a few exceptions... There are still a few mods coming regarding chassis panels.

Carlos

Carlos C

04-24-2017, 10:33 PM

I spent most of my time in the garage today drilling all the rivet holes for the passenger side foot box and floor, and installed all of it using cleckos during the process. I will be taking it all apart to powder-coat, rubber undercoat, insulate, etc. But before I do this, I'm filling in all the gaps (I don't like gaps - I may be OCD).

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66853&d=1493088472
Anyone familiar with the Gen 2 '65 Coupe (it may be the same on the MK4 Roadster), knows that there's a gap on the top panel towards the rear, outer section, where it meets with the outside foot box panel. Having this gap could introduce water and heat into the foot box.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66852&d=1493088471
I made a template out of cardboard paper, and then transferred this onto aluminum sheet, bent, drilled, and mounted this plate on the frame. The gap is now basically sealed. Once I'm ready to permanently mount it, I'll apply silicone and attach it to the frame with rivets. This is the first of quite a few gaps which need to be covered.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66851&d=1493088471
This may not seem like an issue to some, and I don't know if others have run into this, but when I tried to temporarily mount the firewall "A" chassis panel, I realized that the vertical frame tubing were not welded flush towards the rear, in relation to the 2" x 3" tubing. This means that although the build manual states to use rivets on this panel in order to attach it to the framing, the rivets won't reach these two vertical frame tubing. Therefore, I decided to go into the bag of unused FFR hardware and pulled out four long screws FFR used to mount some of the chassis panels. I'll be using these four screws permanently, while also using rivets on the sections of this panel which are flush to the frame.

One last item:
I'm using the Ron Francis chassis harness (purchased through FFR) and the donor pedal box with the OEM clutch safety cut-out switch ('87 - '93). The Mustang clutch switch prong's are surrounded by plastic, which do not allow for electrical connectors to be installed onto it, and I'm trying to stay away from soldering the RF wires to it, if at all possible. If anyone has the pigtail for this switch, and they're willing to part with it, please let me know. Thanks.

Carlos

Carlos C

04-27-2017, 01:43 AM

I finished covering all the panel gaps on the passenger side foot box and floor today. Additionally, I completed all the custom work on this side of the cockpit; in this case, the fabrication of a kick panel for the EFI computer. I made, labeled, and saved cardboard paper templates for every panel gap fill plate I've made so far. This should make my life easier in the future, should I decide to change any of these panels, work on another Gen 2 Coupe (yes, I know FFR moved on to the Gen 3), or when I build an MK4, as some of these panels are interchangeable; or at the very least, some of the gaps on the panels are similar. All fill plates will be permanently attached to their respective panels after everything has been coated.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66927&d=1493273471
Although the gaps on the seat harnesses are not that big, I still wanted to close them; therefore, I made fill plates for them. Notice that there are two different plates, one for the inner bracket and one for the outer. The templates will allow me to make exact copies for the driver side later.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66926&d=1493273470
This is the biggest gap on the passenger side floor, and I'm surprised that there are no fill plates supplied with the kit. My custom-made fill plate is fabricated out of two parts, which will attach together via rivets. As you can tell by the photo, the fill plates make a big difference, but they also consume a lot of time, as I make them by hand and take a lot of measurements - I don't have any fancy digital equipment on which I can input the measurements and it can cut the pieces for me, such as a CNC, computer-driven plasma cutting table, or a water jet machine.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=66925&d=1493273470
The last sub project for the passenger side foot box/floor was to fabricate a kick panel for the Mustang donor EFI computer. I decided to mount it in the same location as in the Fox-body cars. I made three small "L"-shaped brackets, which would attach to the frame/chassis panel in order to keep it in place, and then the new kick panel goes in front of it. This panel will protect the computer and will help clean up the area. There's an open area at the top of the panel for the harness to pass through, along with its computer chip and USB cables. I will use some of the self-tapping screws which originally came with the kit to hold the chassis panels, to attach the kick panel against the frame. I had to make a couple of bends on this panel (I ended up bending it manually using clamps, my work table, and a heavy gauge steel plate), which reminded me that I need to invest on a metal brake.

After I finished with all of this, I removed every single chassis panel from the passenger side, so I can start powder coating and insulating... FUN.

Carlos

Carlos C

05-09-2017, 12:55 AM

Although I haven't posted in almost two weeks, I've been busy slaving away in the garage. I've been working on the cockpit chassis panels, and I must say that I've developed a hatred for drilling. Besides that, I put in and received a $1K order from Summit for parts needed to continue the build, including a couple of rolls of insulation (which I had ran out of), fuel items such as hoses and filters to replace the donor's counterparts, and a couple of small brake items. I also decided to purchase an fuel pump electronic speed controller for my A-1000.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=67604&d=1494304760
One nasty surprise I encountered when attaching the last cockpit panels was that these outer back panels weren't even close to fitting to the frame. Not sure if anyone else has experienced this, but I'm assuming that they were bent improperly at FFR. In order to rectify the issue, I slightly bent the floor lips, then made some relief cuts to the panels, and carefully re-shaped them while avoiding cracking and/or snapping them. Thankfully, the "surgery" worked, and the panels fit well enough for me to rivet them in place.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=67602&d=1494304759
The foot boxes are done (as much as possible) and insulated.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=67603&d=1494304759
The rest of the cockpit panels are completed, except for the insulation. Once that's done, I'll finally move on to the mechanical part of the build. If you look close, you'll find quite a few fill plates. That's because I just don't like the gaps left from the factory. I guess I'm just OCD when it comes to gaps.

Carlos

wallace18

05-09-2017, 05:11 AM

It is not out of the ordinary to refit panels. You did a very nice job. Keep up the good work.

Carlos C

05-12-2017, 11:24 PM

It is not out of the ordinary to refit panels. You did a very nice job. Keep up the good work.

Thanks, Tom. It just makes me wonder how some of these panels are so far off, considering that they have templates. I get nervous every time I have to re-shape a panel. The type of aluminum used by FFR, is not the type that allows you to re-bend it without usually snapping. I've gotten lucky so far...

Carlos

Carlos C

05-13-2017, 12:03 AM

Alright, so all the insulation in the cockpit is done... thankfully. Drilling panels/frame and measuring/cutting/applying insulation are not part of the build which I'd consider "fun". And since I still haven't received the SAI adapters for my front suspension, I can't finish that, nor my front brakes. This means that I have to skip pluming the brakes -at least the front ones- for now. I started with the fuel system, but since what I have from my donor is far from stock - as you'll see soon at a later post, many of the parts which came with the kit, won't get used as they're not compatible. As a matter of fact, I have to engineer and fabricate a special bracket to attach onto the frame, which will hold the A-1000 pump, the filter, and the pre-filter. The trick is that the pump must be mounted below the center line of the fuel tank. But for now, here's what I've done:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=67800&d=1494650433
Installed the fuel tank with the plastic tray, fuel level sending unit, vent, and pick-up tube already attached onto it. Thanks to my motorcycle hydraulic jack, installing the tank onto the frame was an easy one-man operation.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=67799&d=1494650432
Using some raw plate steel I had laying around, I cut some pieces, using cardboard paper templates, to create brackets for the OEM fuel carbon canister and the fuel inertia switch. I then smoothed out, cleaned up, and powder-coated the brackets.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=67801&d=1494650433
Here's the inertia switch attached at the rear of the car's frame via the custom bracket I fabricated. It will be under the aluminum floor. I will drill out an access hole, and cover it with a blank grommet.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=67797&d=1494650431
The other two brackets were used to attach the carbon canister onto the frame right above the fuel tank, making good use of empty space.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=67798&d=1494650432
I then attached a hose from the carbon canister to the fuel tank vent. Once the engine is in, I'll attach the other hose from it to the canister, in order to finish the loop.

Once I figure out where I'll install the battery box - whether in front of the tank or above it, and if I will be integrating a sound system onto the trunk's floor, I'll be able to come up with a design for the fuel pump/filters bracket.

Carlos

wallace18

05-13-2017, 06:24 AM

You may want to put the inertia switch where it is easy to get to. Just my 2 cents worth.

Carlos C

05-13-2017, 10:46 AM

You may want to put the inertia switch where it is easy to get to. Just my 2 cents worth.

Not to worry, Tom. I was going to mention this at a later post, once I got to the point of installing the trunk floor, but I will be making an access panel for the inertia switch where the blank grommet will be, just as there'll be access panels for the fuel level sending unit and pick-up tube. Thanks for looking out for me, though. It's always appreciated.

Carlos

Carlos C

05-25-2017, 06:09 PM

I have gone as far as possible with the brake system, which is still not complete; more on that later. In the meantime, please enjoy some photos...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68185&d=1495686518
I fabricated brackets for the brake line lock which came from my donor, and for the manual proportioning valve. The brackets would end up getting powder-coated black.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68189&d=1495686520
Installed a custom-made fill plate for the master cylinder I fabricated a while back (see post #101). Also, I decided to install the fill plate for the driver side foot box wiring harness now, instead of later when I get to the wiring section of the build. The reason being that this is a big master cylinder and it would be impossible to rivet this plate with master cylinder installed.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68188&d=1495686520
Master cylinder installed with brake lines cut, bent, and flared. The line for the front brakes is not installed into the master cylinder yet. Filled and bench-bled the master cylinder prior to installing it on the car.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68186&d=1495686519
The brake line lock installed and the front brake line going into it, with two output brake lines going to the front calipers which are not yet attached.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68187&d=1495686519
This is the routing of the passenger side front brake line.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68190&d=1495686521
From the master cylinder, the rear brake line goes into the cabin and to the manual proportioning valve, then out of the valve, outside of the cabin, down the front of the foot box, and under the frame.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68191&d=1495686521
Here's a close-up shot of the manual proportioning valve, mounted next to the pedal box. This will allow me to make adjustments to brake bias from inside the car from under the dash.

[Continued on the next post]

Carlos

Carlos C

05-25-2017, 06:12 PM

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68192&d=1495686522
The brake line routing under the frame... nothing fancy.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68193&d=1495686522
And finally, this is where the rear brake line terminates. The bracket is from my donor. I had previously purchased a new brake hose with the junction block and additional 3/16" brake line from the auto parts store, bent the new brake lines on the differential using the old lines as templates, and installed the set-up right after I had finished overhauling the rear end.

As far as to why I'm not done with the brake system and why I can't bleed them yet, it's because I'm still waiting for the suspension parts to arrive so I can finish installing the front suspension and front brakes. I was told 5 weeks ago that I should see the parts between 2 to 3 weeks. After 4 weeks, I sent the vendor an email, but never received a reply. A few days later, I called and I was told that it'd be an additional 3 weeks before I get the parts. I was given the same line I was given 5 weeks ago: "the parts are being made right now". That doesn't make sense to me, as it doesn't take 7 weeks to fabricate the same parts... We'll see if I get the parts within the next 2 weeks. I'm running out of things to do before I need to have this car on the ground. In the meantime, I'll continue with the fuel system.

Carlos

Carlos C

05-31-2017, 09:55 PM

As promised, I started with the fuel system. Unfortunately, I was not able to finish it, due to Summit selling me the wrong AN size fuel hoses. I have returned said hoses, and hopefully I will be getting the correct sizes within the next few days. Once I get them, I'll route, measure, cut, install the fittings, and mount the hoses onto the frame.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68418&d=1496282976
Fabricated the plate on which the fuel pump, pre-filter and filter will be mounted, and the support bracket. This plate will be installed on the fuel tank's steel mounting straps and also by the aforementioned fabricated support bracket. This is a similar set-up I had on my donor Mustang and it worked well. The reason I had to go through all this trouble is that Aeromotive strongly recommends for this fuel pump to be mounted as low as possible relative to the fuel tank, in order to aid suction and prevent cavitation, and to extend the pump's lifespan. This photo was taken right before a de-rusting bath and then powder-coat.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68419&d=1496282976
Here's one of the fuel tank straps, converted to accept bolts and threaded couplers.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68420&d=1496282977
The fuel tank straps installed with the fasteners attached. This set-up will allow me to remove the plate and its components without disturbing the tank straps.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68417&d=1496282975
The pre-filter, pump, and filter attached to the plate. Additionally, the bracket is also bolted to it, which will help support the plate and will bolt on to the frame.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68416&d=1496282975
Here's the whole assembly, minus the hoses and the pump's wiring harness. All the mounting hardware consist of grade 8 bolts and nuts.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=68421&d=1496282977
Another small side project was a fabrication of a heat shield which goes between the brake master cylinder and its brake lines, and the exhaust. It should help prevent the brake fluid from boiling. It will also function as a channel for the front chassis wiring harness.

Carlos

Carlos C

06-21-2017, 09:49 PM

Hey, the forum is back up and running. I've been away for the last couple of weeks dealing with medical appointments, VA bureaucracy and claim submissions, while trying to get a few hours in the garage whenever I could. Below are some of the items I've been able to accomplished, on this and the next post, while still waiting for the front suspension pieces to arrive.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69249&d=1498094817
I made this bracket which attaches to the frame at the rear of the vehicle and will hold fuel hoses, along with rubber-lined clips, from moving around and potentially chaffing on sharp edges. This brackets was powder-coated black.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69251&d=1498094835
After the fiasco with the fuel lines and fittings sizes with a certain well-known distributor of performance parts, I decided to go with the tried-and-true re-usable fittings I had on my donor and figured out that I had to order one size higher than what the fittings called for from this distributor, in order to make it all work. Here, the pump has been plumbed using what would be -10 AN supply from the tank to the pre-filter and -08 AN from the filter to the fuel rails.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69252&d=1498094852
The supply and return (-06 AN) lines are attached to the frame via rubber-lined clips, including the aforementioned fabricated bracket, which is attached to the frame via one of the quad shock bracket bolts.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69254&d=1498094893
I ran all the fuel hoses under the chassis and attached them on the outside of the passenger side 4" round tube with more clips. I also ran a 1/4" nylon emissions hose from the engine back to the charcoal canister alongside the fuel hoses.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69253&d=1498094865
This photo is deceiving as it seems to show the fuel lines and the fuel regulator much closer to the plastic engine than they actually are. The return line is attached to the 3/4" square tubing with another clip, but instead of a rivet, I used a self-tapping screw. This will allow me to move the line out of the way when the engine is installed and when work in that area (i.e.: starter) needs to be performed. The supply line is only attached to the return line via zip ties, and with the slack it has, it can easily be moved out of the way for maintenance purposes. I will be covering these hoses with high-temp sleeves later.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69250&d=1498094828
With the lower intake manifold mocked to the plastic block, I installed the fuel rails, cut the fuel lines and installed the fittings. At this point, the fuel loop is complete, and all that's missing is the electrical part of the system and connect the vacuum line from the engine to the regulator. Of course, I also need to install the tank's fill port, but that has to wait until the body is on for good.

Carlos

Carlos C

06-21-2017, 11:36 PM

Here are some of the other items I've been working on for the last couple of weeks or so. These are side projects which have nothing to do with the actual build, but I consider necessary for mine:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69256&d=1498094924
With regards to the custom-made firewall panel addition, I finally finished it. This contraption you see here is supposed to be the "bracket" for the ignition coil. The way I did this allows me to mount the awkwardly-shaped coil, while still giving me enough room between it and the panel for the coil to fit, placing the coil forward enough to clear the 2"x2" square tubing to allow for the electrical connector to be plugged in, and allowing me to remove the coil from the front without removing the whole panel to do so.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69255&d=1498094906
The coil mounted to the "bracket". This set-up still gives plenty of room between it and the engine.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69248&d=1498094789
After the panel was powder-coated, I attached all the intended items (fuel regulator, MAP sensor, starter solenoid and ignition coil) onto it and temporarily installed the panel to the frame to make sure everything fit.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69259&d=1498095060
I need a place to mount the fuel pump controller and the battery shut-off switch. I decided to place them together in a custom-fabricated box. This box would be installed under the trunk floor, but easily accessible via a bolted lid, much like the after-market battery boxes. I started with a drawing with dimensions gathered from the trunk's frame and obstructions. Then, I transferred the dimensions onto board paper pieces which I bent and taped together, then mocked onto the frame to make sure it fit.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69258&d=1498095040
Once I was satisfied with the fitment of the template, I used the board pieces to make aluminum counter parts. I then drilled the necessary holes and marked where each piece needed to be bent. Thanks to Henry (65 Cobra Dude) for letting me use his metal brake to do this part (I really need to purchase one, but can't decide if I want just a brake or a much more expensive 3-in-1).

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=69257&d=1498094949
This is the pre-assembled box for the fuel pump control unit attached to the frame by cleckos for fitment purposes. I still need to drill holes for all the items and wires which will be installed within the box and fabricate the lid. I will be doing this later, during the wiring part of the build and once the battery is installed.

Carlos

Rodster

07-07-2017, 04:58 PM

Carlos -- thanks for your updates -- these are really helpful as I follow your footsteps on a Coupe build! Keep posting . . . I am just starting on wiring and will be using some of your hints, like the cover plate at the rear of the engine to mount stuff.

69954

-wayne

Carlos C

07-08-2017, 01:42 AM

Thanks for the kind words, Wayne. I'm glad to see that some of my ideas are helping others out there. Of course, I borrow others' ideas as well. Stay tuned, as I do have more custom fabrication in the works. Also, I'll be adding more electrical components from my donor, which will necessitate more circuits. As of now, my thoughts are not to splice the circuits from the RF fuse panel, and instead just to get a secondary universal fuse panel. If I go that route, I already know where to mount it, and already have made the appropriate access panel on the side of the driver's foot box. Additionally, I plan to fabricate an overhead console, which will house more switches, lights, and speakers. Unfortunately, I've been busy with other personal matters and have not had much time lately to work on the Coupe, so you may end up finishing up the wiring stage before I do.

Carlos

totem

02-18-2018, 11:42 AM

Hankl

02-18-2018, 06:51 PM

As suggested above, there is plenty of meat on the caliper bracket. Grind down carefully so that the bracket matches
the contour of the spindle. make it as close as possible so the threads appear as the bracket contacts the spindle.

Hankl

Carlos C

07-01-2018, 07:57 PM

Hankl and Totem:

I decided to go a different route as the amount of distance between the bolt holes on the bracket and spindle is too great, and removing material off either or both would compromise their integrity. Thanks for your suggestion, and sorry for the very late reply, as I've been off the site for a long time.

Carlos

Carlos C

07-01-2018, 09:22 PM

Well, it's been just about a year since my last update to the build, and over a year since I was promised parts for my front suspension by a certain vendor, which regardless of the owner's awful reputation, he's still allowed to advertise here. I've also had personal and medical issues to work through, and started a new job which takes a lot of my time. Due in part to the undelivered parts, and a recent purchase of a Mustang, I decided to go in a different route with my build, hence the change in my signature.

So, instead of using the previously-planned supercharged 358ci engine, Viper-spec'ed T-56 tranny, 3.73-geared, electro-magnetic posi; and 5-lug, multi-piston brake system; I've decided to keep those items for a later Mustang project. What I'm doing is using other parts which I already had sitting around. I had a 302 taking too much room in my garage, so I tore it down and I'll be taking it to the machine shop for cleaning and stroker kit clearing. I also have a TKO-500 which only has about 3K miles on it. Additionally, I just re-built and powder-coated a spare rear end I had sitting around for a couple of years, including replacing the clutches on the center section. Lastly, I rebuild part of the brakes I already had, and purchased what I wanted to upgrade, mainly to Cobra/SVO units and to rear discs. I also solved the issue I had with the right front upper A-arm not clearing the frame (see post #259).

Photos and build updates on the next post.

Carlos

Carlos C

07-01-2018, 10:11 PM

Removed the previously installed rear end and commenced re-building the one I had sitting around in the garage. This one was fairly rusty, with a lot of miles on it as evidenced by the worn out center section clutches, and at some point, someone had installed 4.10 gears in it. Since I'm using a 5-speed tranny and don't plan to race the car anymore, I don't see a point in running this very short gear. Therefore, I purchased a set of 3.27's.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88240&d=1530495041
Center section with the spider gears already removed, and ready for further disassembly and cleaning.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88241&d=1530495060
All it needs now is to have the bearings pressed out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88242&d=1530495079
Center section and other parts cleaned, new bearings pressed in, and new clutches/steel plates ready to go in.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88243&d=1530495111
The rusty differential unit disassembled and ready for sand-blasting and powder-coating. On the foreground is the original rear end which I removed from the car and will go to my next project.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88244&d=1530495136
Rear end powder-coated and ready for assembly. Bearing races already pressed in.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88251&d=1530495309
Pinion and ring gear installed. Pinion depth set, ring gear backlash set at .008", and so has the gear tooth pattern.

[cont'd]

Carlos

Carlos C

07-01-2018, 10:42 PM

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88245&d=1530495157
Torqued everything down, installed a new vent valve, "borrowed" the upper control arms' bushings and cups from the other rear end and pressed them in, as I already purchased and installed a set race spherical bearing bushings for the other rear end. I also borrowed the brake lines from it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88246&d=1530495195
Here, I installed the upper control arms, the axles (after powder-coating the flanges), and FFR's lower control arms brackets.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88248&d=1530495241
The rear Cobra brake calipers came un-coated, so I decided to ceramic coat them.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88249&d=1530495254
After disassembly and ceramic coating.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=88247&d=1530495216
Rear end installed on the car with the brakes. Rotors have been powder-coated in order to prevent corrosion.

Carlos

wallace18

07-02-2018, 05:46 AM

3:27 gears work well with the Coupe IMO. That is what I ended up using. Good to see you back at work on your car.

Erik W. Treves

07-02-2018, 06:24 AM

FWIW … the rear sway bar you may find is WAY too low. I tried to run one on my Mark 1 and didn't work out all that well....

looks good though!

Carlos C

07-31-2018, 08:02 PM

Thanks for the kind words., gents. Erik, thanks for the heads-up. I'll keep a mental note on that, and we'll see how it works out. If it doesn't, no biggie. I'll either run an aftermarket unit or none at all.

Carlos

Carlos C

07-31-2018, 08:20 PM

I turned my attention to the trunk area this past weekend. I finally received and installed my battery box, along with my fabricated FMU (fuel management unit) / battery cut-off switch box.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89665&d=1533084705
Here are the two boxes temporarily mounted within the frame rails under the trunk.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89666&d=1533084718
Close-up view of how these boxes will be permanently mounted. After this photo was taken, I removed the bottom of the FMU box and drilled out all the necessary holes for all the items which will be attached to it.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=89667&d=1533084735
I placed the trunk floor down, marked the holes to be cut out, performed the "surgery" and placed the trunk floor back down to check for correct clearances. Besides the holes for both boxes, I cut out holes for the fuel pump pick-up tube, fuel level sending unit and fuel pump emergency cut-out switch.

Before I permanently mount these boxes, I will be coating them to protect them from the environment, including road debris. I also just ordered a sound system for the car, and plan to build a sub-woofer box. I'll hopefully start that mini-project this weekend.

Carlos

65 Cobra Dude

07-31-2018, 09:22 PM

Nice work Carlos!!!

Henry

Carlos C

09-17-2018, 09:27 PM

Thanks, Henry!

Well, bad luck struck again. I was involved in a bad car accident on August 3rd, by some moron showing off for his friends in a Mustang. He plowed into my truck while I was waiting at a light; hit me with so much force that he pushed my vehicle into the next lane and onto a city bus. My truck was totaled and I was hurt - needed stitches on my head, concussion, shoulder injury, leg injury and infection, back and neck injuries... but I'm still here. Unfortunately, the injuries have prevented me from working on the Coupe.

Hopefully, I'll be in the garage soon finishing the trunk project, although I need to buy a metal brake, or a 3 in 1 (shear, brake, roll).

Carlos

Jimtmich

09-17-2018, 10:43 PM

Sorry to hear of the accident. Hope you get better soon.

Owlknight360

09-18-2018, 02:25 PM

That's horrible. Wishing you a speedy recovery!

Jetfuel

09-18-2018, 06:41 PM

In accidents like that you don't question if it's going to hurt but how long it's going to hurt
Speedy recovery
And let me guess....dude didn't have insurance...

65 Cobra Dude

09-18-2018, 07:20 PM

You got this Carlos!!! Let me know if I can help!

Henry

Fugi

09-19-2018, 05:36 PM

Carlos,
I started reading your thread yesterday and realized after I was hooked that you started 4 years ago. I see that you've had more than your share of set backs, this last one is like the topper. However, if there is anything that I can tell from your build it is that your significant level of skills, is only outweighed by your commitment and drive to see a goal accomplished. I'm absolutely certain that drive has served you well during your career and life.

You will recover and see this through to completion.

Reading your thread has given me a fresh perspective to realize that the little obstacles I'm getting in finishing our roadster are really so minor and not even worth of a mention, less a complaint.

Thank you for sharing your story.
Vince

John Dol

09-19-2018, 08:45 PM

Holy crap Carlos that is aweful.
Hope you recover soon, or at least feel good enough to get back on the coupe.
You never know what will happen next in life....

John

Carlos C

09-30-2019, 10:29 PM

It's been a year since my last post, but not a year since I've worked on the car. Since my car accident, I spent a lot of time rehabilitating my body, along with dealing with other medical issues and working overtime. Still, I've found some time to work on the vehicle.

First off, regarding the upper control arms fiasco, I never received the parts, nor ever heard from the vendor whom shall remained nameless. However, I was able to heat up and slightly bend the front frame tubing, in order to finally install the passenger side upper control arm.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115268&d=1569899376

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115267&d=1569899371

As per Post #287, I've made changes to the vehicle's configuration. This mainly includes the drivetrain. I've already replaced the rear end, rear suspension and brakes. Since the engine and transmission are also changing, and I had a spare 302 / Tremec 5-speed combo sitting around collecting dust, I decided to use them on this build. The tranny only had about 3K miles; therefore, it only needed an inspection, minor maintenance and powder coating/painting.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115264&d=1569899356

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115263&d=1569899350

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115262&d=1569899345

The 302 block was taken to a machine shop to inject it with steroids, and by the time it came out, it was ready as a 347. The short block is now assembled. I got the rest of the parts ready to go, except the intake manifold, which I haven't decided on yet.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115266&d=1569899367

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=115265&d=1569899363

Currently, I'm working on a sub-woofer box which will be installed in the trunk.

Carlos

Gbeck

10-01-2019, 01:24 PM

It's great to see you back at it and I look forward to seeing more progress!

Carlos C

10-31-2020, 11:55 PM

Well, it's been a year since my last post. I had a motorcycle accident right after it, which was the main reason for the lack of updates, as I was going through rehab. Of course, then the world went to hell due to COVID-19. At some point, I decided to unplug from social media altogether. I have been quietly working on the car since about late spring.

As of this writing, the engine and tranny are in the car, the engine harness is completed; the driveshaft has been shortened, powder-coated and installed.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136977&d=1604202294 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136978&d=1604202421
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136979&d=1604202531 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136980&d=1604202596
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136981&d=1604202625 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136990&d=1604203031

Carlos C

11-01-2020, 12:00 AM

The trunk is finished, all the electrical, including custom electrical work - besides the gauges/dashboard - has been completed. Speaking of the dashboard, due to the A/C system and custom center console, I had to cut so much of the Spyder GT dashboard, that there wasn't much left of it. So, I decided to use the original aluminum dashboard instead, but I'm adding a few custom touches to it. I've also added some custom pieces throughout (shock towers, E-brake, Shifter, etc) to help seal the cabin from the elements.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136989&d=1604203013 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136988&d=1604202946 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136983&d=1604202695 https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136982&d=1604202649

I also had to make modifications to the frame for the custom center console.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136991&d=1604203056

Although there has been more progress than what the photos show, and I will be posting more updates in the future, I'm in the middle of a new, but short side-project. I just purchased a 2020 Mustang PP2, which I plan to modify immediately - I already have most parts ready to go. The supercharger is on its way. I will be documenting the project on this forum. Stay tuned.

wallace18

11-01-2020, 06:15 AM

Glad you are back at it. Keep up the good work. :cool:

65 Cobra Dude

11-01-2020, 07:05 AM

Nice work Carlos! She’s coming along. Looking forward to seeing what you do with the Mustang!

Henry

Carlos C

11-24-2020, 05:38 PM

Thanks, guys. I just received the remaining parts for the Mustang and completed powder-coating everything I deemed necessary from those parts and custom fabrications. The hood and front bumper will go to the dealer for painting, once I test-fit them on the car first. I hope to start tearing down the car this weekend, barring any unforseen issues.

Carlos

Carlos C

11-24-2020, 07:35 PM

Here are some more photos on my Coupe progress.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136976&d=1604202269

The beginning of the sub-woofer box.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136984&d=1604202725

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136985&d=1604202751

The somewhat finished trunk floor.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=136986&d=1604202776

The amp will be located behind the driver's seat.

Once I complete the Mustang upgrades and get back on this never-ending build, I'll post more photos. Now, these are older photos; this car is actually further along than this. I just haven't taken any recent pictures.

Carlos

Carlos C

11-24-2020, 08:56 PM

It's taken me forever to build the Coupe. This is due to vehicular accidents, medical issues, civilian job, military deployments, side projects, etc. Side projects included rebuilding my motorcycle, buying and bringing a Mustang from the grave and making it into a reliable vehicle, and working on other people's vehicles. If I could predict the future, I would have waited to build the Coupe, but as the adage goes: hindsight is 20/20.

I've wanted an S550 Mustang for the last few years, and resisted the temptation until now. I originally wanted the GT500, but it only comes with an automatic transmission. So, I made a deal with Ford: they would deliver me the closest thing to the GT500 (brakes, suspension, tires, braces, radiator, coolers, options, etc, with a manual transmission; the rest was up to me to complete. I've received all the body parts to convert it to a GT500 (minus the badging) and a blower. I'm also lowering the suspension 1". This is a track-ready Performance Pack 2 with additional options added at the plant. But as with everything I get my greasy hands on, I can't ever leave well-enough alone. So, here is the start of my Mustang GT500 clone project.

The following are the "before" photos. The only mods done so far have been window tinting, black badging/emblems, and exhaust resonator delete.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138271&d=1606265190

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138272&d=1606265219

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138278&d=1606268834

Carlos

Carlos C

12-06-2020, 11:46 PM

The transformation has begun, and with it, the first SNAFU. The first item I fit-tested was the hood and it failed miserably; it's warped on the front passenger side. It's bad enough that after it's completely latched down, I can still stick my fingers between it and the bumper. The only way to fix it would be to perform relief cuts on the inside skin and re-weld. But since I paid too much for this hood, it's going back and hopefully get a replacement soon. Unfortunately, this will set me back.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138857&d=1607313344

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138856&d=1607313314

I proceeded to remove the front bumper which took me what seemed forever. Due to the PP2's extra splitter, there are a gazillion of screws, pins and reusable plastic rivets which need to be taken off; not only off the bumper and splitter, but also the chassis pan. To make it worse, the plastic rivets are a pain to remove. Some of them were installed improperly from the factory, which made it even more difficult to remove. It took me all day, but the bumper is off.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138860&d=1607313470

Pre-fitted the partially-completed GT500 front bumper, and so far, it seems that it will work out. Once I install the blower, I'll test-fit it again with all the pieces attached before it goes to paint.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138859&d=1607313438

The next step is the blower install. The plan was to pre-fit the hood and front bumper after the blower installation, and then send them out for paint while I continued with the upgrades. Due to the hood issue, I'll be done with all the upgrades before I get a new hood. This will set me back weeks, if not at least a month.

Carlos C

12-08-2020, 11:37 PM

Engine preparation for the blower installation has begun. Most items which needed to be removed - many of them which will not be re-installed - are off the vehicle, and I've begun installing items from the ProCharger's kit.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138936&d=1607487837

At the same time, I decided to darken the front side marker lights with tinting paint. We'll see how long that lasts. I went this route because no one seems to make a cover for these lights for the '18+ Mustang. There are covers and vinyl films for the tail lights for these model years, but they are garbage. I'll most likely use the paint for the tail lights as well.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=138938&d=1607487859

Carlos C

12-17-2020, 11:42 PM

Quick update:

The blower sub-project is complete. All I need to do is upload the basic map and stock tune, send the memory card to the company, wait for them to load a new fuel map and tune, and send the card back to me to download onto the computer.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139448&d=1608265383

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139447&d=1608265356

Next up, GT500 side rocker panels and lowering springs.

Carlos

Carlos C

12-26-2020, 10:31 PM

Merry Christmas, everyone!

I've spent the last few days -including Christmas day - working in the garage. Here's what I've accomplished lately.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139901&d=1609036171

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139908&d=1609036833

Put together the GT500-styled side skirts and mounted them. To do that, I had to remove the rocker panels off the car. Thankfully, this went without much fanfare.

Next, I moved on to the front suspension. I removed the coil-over struts, replaced the springs, added camber plates, re-installed all the parts and adjusted the camber as accurately as I could.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139903&d=1609036206

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139907&d=1609036614

The struts to spindle bolts are splined and need to be hammered out. The passenger side bolts came out without much issue, but the driver side felt like they were welded in place, hence the torch in the picture. I had to heat the spindle for about 10 minutes to get the bolts off.

I moved on to the rear suspension. I had to remove the shocks to gain access to the springs. Additionally, I had to make a small Magne-ride connection alteration on the shock. Another issue I encountered was that I had to grind down the spring perches, in order to remove the shocks. Even after removing the anti-sway bar, it was extremely difficult to remove and install the shocks. Once I'm able to get car back on the road, I'll get the suspension professionally aligned.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139904&d=1609036315

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139905&d=1609036336

Lastly, I removed the rear bumper to replace the valance to the GT500-style unit. I fabricated and installed splitters to the valance. While the bumper was out, I took the opportunity to replace the side marker lights for LED units, same goes for the reverse light. Also, I decided to darken the taillights while they were out.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=139906&d=1609036357

Although the rear is now all back together, I decided not to post photos until the car is basically completed. I am now working on fabricating aluminum shields for the air filter and windshield washer reservoir. More on that during my next post.

Carlos

Carlos C

01-02-2021, 10:18 PM

Happy New Year, everyone. I, for one, spent it in the garage.

Now that the rear of the car is put together, I concentrated on the last piece of business there - the spoiler. The GT500-style wing needed a couple of extra holes drilled on the deck lid, but otherwise, it was a fairly straight-forward installation.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140236&d=1609637716

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140235&d=1609637692

As I already mentioned, I designed shields for the air filter and windshield washer, as they will be exposed to debris and water with the new bumper. These are the final versions.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140232&d=1609637620

And here they are powder-coated and installed.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140234&d=1609637670

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140233&d=1609637646

The front bumper is at the paint shop now. They told me that I should get it back some time next week, but knowing how they typically work, I'm not holding my breath. I also ordered a fuel pressure gauge, a fuel line adapter (to install the fuel pressure gauge sending unit), A-pillar gauge pod, oil catch can, and center console gauge pod for the Ecoboost (as the one that came with my car only read vacuum, and the Ecoboost version reads vacuum / PSI). Last thing I've done so far was to upload the stock tune from the computer and send it to the supercharger manufacturer, along with the car's specific information. I should receive a custom tune to download in a couple of days. Once that's done, and I replace the spark plugs for a set of one heat range colder, the engine will be safe to run.

Carlos

q4stix

01-08-2021, 12:50 AM

Carlos C

01-08-2021, 09:38 PM

I realize it may just be me and my computer but it seems that none of the pictures are showing up. Is anyone else having the same issue with this thread? I'd really like to see what you've been up to Carlos!

Not sure why you can't see the photos. I can see them anytime after the posts have been published. But, they are large, high-resolution photos; so, maybe that could be part of the issue you're having, depending on your computer / internet access. Have you tried using a different device?

Can anyone else chime in and let us know if you're having difficulty with my photos?

Thanks,

Carlos

MSumners

01-08-2021, 10:05 PM

I don’t see any images either, odd.

Not sure why you can't see the photos. I can see them anytime after the posts have been published. But, they are large, high-resolution photos; so, maybe that could be part of the issue you're having, depending on your computer / internet access. Have you tried using a different device?

Can anyone else chime in and let us know if you're having difficulty with my photos?

Thanks,

Carlos

65 Cobra Dude

01-08-2021, 10:10 PM

I can see them fine. Nice work Coastie!!!

Henry

Carlos C

01-08-2021, 11:12 PM

Getting closer to the end of the project. The engine side is done and put back together. The last item was to install an oil catch can - good to have on any vehicle, essential on a boosted application. I use one on every engine; it keeps deposits from forming on the intake valves, top of pistons, sensors, etc; all which create drive-ability problems, shortens engine life and lights up computer engine codes.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140488&d=1610160061

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140487&d=1610160042

Took apart the dashboard and center console - the dash to modify the Performance Pack-specific gauges, and the console to transfer the iPod USB cable to the lockable glove box. For the latter, the console arm rest box has an USB port inside, but this glove box cannot be locked. There's another USB port in the center console, so I drilled a hole next to the port, ran the cable through it and behind the entertainment system, to the dashboard's lockable glove box.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140489&d=1610161369

As for the center gauges, I did some research and found that the Ecoboost gauge set-up some companies sell to replace the Performance Pack gauges on the GT which only show vacuum (versus vacuum and boost on the Ecoboost set-up), only works on '15 - '17 Mustangs, yet they advertise that they work on all through '20. Ford Performance told me that is not true. After my research, I found that after 2018, the gauge pack uses a slightly different part number. Ford Performance has not used this newer gauge pack on a boosted GT, so they do not know if it is compatible. My contact at the dealer has not been able to get an answer from Ford engineers, so I guess I'll find out for myself, since I ordered a set. In the meantime, I installed an nGauge, and with it, an updated tune burned to my computer.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140486&d=1610160016

I got the front bumper back from the paint shop and I'm in the middle of putting it together and installing it on the car. Besides the gauge pack, all I'm waiting for is a replacement hood, and then I can do the racing stripes and call the car done.

Carlos

Carlos C

01-08-2021, 11:22 PM

I can see them fine. Nice work Coastie!!!

Henry

Thanks, Henry.

Finally, someone who can see the photos. I was about to ask you to look into this. I was beginning to think I was the only one who could see the photos. I'm still not sure why others have a hard time with the images, though. If you know why, or have any ideas, please share. If it's something I can help fix so other members can see the pictures, let me know.

Snowman

01-08-2021, 11:30 PM

mtwarog

01-09-2021, 09:01 AM

They don't show up for me either. I thought I was the only one too. :)

I tried posting a link to your picture below here, but it doesn't show up:
------------------------
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140486&d=1610160016
------------------------

When I post a link to a picture of my car, I can see it:
------------------------
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=74201&d=1506474655
------------------------

I don't know what is going on and why some people can see your pictures and some, like me, can not.

I hope we can find a solution, because I'm interested in seeing your pictures.

Thanks.
-Matt

Carlos C

01-09-2021, 11:39 AM

Carlos C

01-09-2021, 11:44 AM

I'm unable to see your photos either. Are you using the albums on the forum to upload your photos?

I had a problem with that a while back I realized I marked my albums private, when I changed them to public that seemed to rectify my issue.

Yes, I use the albums to upload. I've always had my albums set on "private" and I don't remember ever having this issue with my photos, but I took your advise and set my albums to "public", so let's see if that helps. Let me know if you can see my pictures now.

Carlos

Snowman

01-09-2021, 01:49 PM

Yes, I use the albums to upload. I've always had my albums set on "private" and I don't remember ever having this issue with my photos, but I took your advise and set my albums to "public", so let's see if that helps. Let me know if you can see my pictures now.

Carlos

I think that did the trick! I can see all of your photos now. Time to go back through your thread and re-read a bunch of stuff! Thanks for looking into it, you're doing some very cool stuff.

Cheers,
Patrick

Carlos C

01-09-2021, 10:45 PM

Good deal! Hopefully, anyone else whom also had issues can now see the photos as well.

Carlos

mtwarog

01-10-2021, 08:00 AM

Good deal! Hopefully, anyone else whom also had issues can now see the photos as well.

Carlos

I see them now. Thanks Carlos. Great job. Now I have a lot of re-reading/looking back to do.

-Matt

q4stix

01-11-2021, 03:38 PM

I can see them now too! Woohoo!
I'll get back reading when I'm off of work :)

Carlos C

01-17-2021, 12:26 AM

First off, I'm glad that other members are now able to see my photos. I have no idea when this issue started, as my images were not a problem before, even with my photo albums being set on private.

The latest update is that a replacement hood is finally on its way to me. Hopefully, this one won't be warped. Ford is making a gauge pack for me to replace the one that came with my car as no dealer in the country seems to have this part in stock. I'm hoping that it will compatible with my car as it is made specifically for the EcoBoost and I haven't found anyone who has actually tested a 2020 gauge pack on a GT. On another note, and unfortunately, the specific racing stripes that I want are on back-order.

I finally took the car on the road a few days ago and it's a monster. Of course, its first stop was to the shop to get an alignment. To my surprise, the front suspension was within specs, so they only needed to work on the rear. I then took it on the highway and opened it up. Even though it wears street-legal racing slicks, it still broke the tires loose on 4th gear at 55 MPH when gunning it while in "Sport +" mode. I still have to take it to the performance shop and put it on a dyno. I stopped by the dealership I purchased the car from, and it gathered a crowd of mostly employees. When I stopped by the dealer's custom shop (where Ford sent most of the parts), it also gathered a crowd. This is due in part because it looks like a GT500, but also because I've added custom-fabricated parts which sets it aside from your typical Mustang.

Ready to terrorize the streets...
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140780&d=1610858396

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140782&d=1610858501

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140786&d=1610858537

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140787&d=1610858582

There's only problem with these stabilizing rear fins I fabricated: they're too low. On the first day on the road, I scraped the ground on dips... three times. Thankfully, I figured this could happen, so I had previously made a secondary design after I had already installed the first. I'm now in the process of scrapping the first design (seen on the photo above) and fabricating the second, which is actually more aggressive, yet lower profile.

Carlos

65 Cobra Dude

01-17-2021, 08:05 AM

Beautiful work Carlos!!!

Henry

Carlos C

01-17-2021, 10:48 PM

I stated on my last post that the Mustang was ready to terrorize the streets. Well, not quite yet. Today, I took the rear bumper off (again), in order work on the second version of the fins. Additionally, I'm fabricating a rear splitter. The cardboard paper template shown in the photo is not complete, but shows what I'm going for.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140849&d=1610938784

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=140850&d=1610938800

Another reason I took off the bumper was to add new and bigger exhaust tips which I had for a few months, but had decided not to put on last time I had the bumper off the car. To do this, I have to cut off the OEM tips. It's much easier to do both jobs with the bumper off the car. I'm hoping to have these projects completed by Friday. I also hope that I will have the new hood by then and I can fit it on, add the GT500 hood pins and send it out to paint by the end of the weekend.

Carlos

Carlos C

01-26-2021, 10:43 PM

I received the replacement hood, and this one is thankfully not warped. It'll be going to the paint shop tomorrow. For the last week, I've been working on it, including performing custom work. The GT500 hood comes with a functional louver-style scoop which acts as a heat extractor. It also comes with a tray which attaches at the bottom of the louver which renders the heat extraction function useless. The only purpose the tray serves is to keep water out of the engine compartment... somewhat. The tray is easy to put on and take off, so I plan to use it only if I'm storing the car or leaving it outside for an extended amount of time.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141504&d=1611718926
These are the vents in the center of the hood. I took the OEM hood's insulation and cut it so it fits around these vents (no photos yet).

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141499&d=1611715442
This is the tray which comes with the hood. Good (somewhat) for keeping water out, awful to help remove heat.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141500&d=1611715459
I custom-made these vents out of perforated sheet metal to help keep bugs, leaves, and other debris out of the engine compartment. They will be removable. All that's left is to powder-coat them.

I already received the racing stripes. This will be the final project on the car.

One final note: I decided against replacing the exhaust tips... at least for now. I did some research and found other customers whom had a few different issues with these tips. So, until the manufacturer can work the bugs out, or I can find a better way to install them, I'll just keep the OEM tips instead. A shame really since I've already done a custom powder-coating job on them.

Carlos

Carlos C

02-01-2021, 10:46 PM

I've completed rear diffuser 2.0, and although I don't have a photo yet, it has already been powder-coated and installed on the bumper. Hopefully tomorrow, I will be installing the rear bumper on the car.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141855&d=1612235868
This is the diffuser's core. I measured three times and bent once to the shape of the rear bumper. Thankfully, I got it right the first time...

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=141856&d=1612235889
Here it is completed, right before I powder-coated all the pieces.

I should receive the hood back from the painter by the end of the week. I should also get my new gauge pack by Friday.

Carlos

FracAG1980

02-02-2021, 12:00 AM

Carlos, How does the Coupe drive with the 3.27 rear end? I am beginning my plan and want to go that way as well. Thanks. Steve

Carlos C

02-04-2021, 10:55 PM

Carlos, How does the Coupe drive with the 3.27 rear end? I am beginning my plan and want to go that way as well. Thanks. Steve

Sorry, Steve. I wish I could answer your question, but my Coupe has not hit the road yet. For what it's worth, I've built many cars throughout the years and I did the calculations with the vehicle's proposed curb weight, transmission final gear ratio, engine's estimated hp/torque numbers, and main use of the car (street), to end up with these gears. If you're looking for more speed and don't mind sacrificing gas mileage, you could go with 3.55 or 3.73, as I originally intended when I planned to use a six-speed transmission. Once I get the car going - hopefully soon - I'll have a full report. Good luck.

Carlos

Carlos C

02-16-2021, 09:53 PM

Not much to report lately, unfortunately. The hood is still at the paint shop. I received a message over a week and a half ago that it was ready for pick-up, but I noticed that it was not up to my standards as it had spots which were not covered and one spot with over-spray. It just so happened that the painter quit the same day I went to pick it up. Apparently, the dealer has not been able to assign anyone to my hood since then to correct the mistakes. So, that's what I'm dealing with now. Otherwise, all I have left is to lay down the stripes and take care of a couple of paint chips.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142805&d=1613529379
The second version of the diffuser is powder-coated and installed. I must admit that I like this version much better.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=142806&d=1613529397
Received and installed the new gauge pack which belongs to the '18 - '20 EcoBoost Mustang. I took the car for a test drive and the gauges work great. I'm glad I purchased this set and not the one advertised by other companies whom state that the gauge pack is the same all the way back from 2015. This is not true as I found out from Ford and Ford Performance. The internal electronics are different and the '15 - '17 gauge packs are not compatible with the newer cars; therefore, the older EcoBoost gauge packs will not read boost on the newer cars.

Hope to get my hood back soon, so I can get my car on the road soon.

Carlos C

03-01-2021, 04:29 PM

I received the hood last week, after having some choice words with the dealer. The second painter did not complete the job as promised (left one item undone), so I took care of it myself. The hood is installed and hopefully those issues are now behind me. I still have to deal with some dings on the trunk. Once that's taken care of, I'll lay down the stripes and the car will be done.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143563&d=1614632369
Once the mistakes were corrected, I installed the hood and added the screens I previously fabricated and powder-coated.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143570&d=1614633279
Here's the completed underside of the hood.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143564&d=1614632388
I spent a lot of time modifying the radiator core support and radiator hold-down brackets, in order to install the hood pins at the correct angles so they would work with the hood. I even had to fabricate custom angled bushings to make this work. This was not fun at all, but at least it's now functional. These hoods are known for slightly lifting at high speeds, so having pins is a good option.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143565&d=1614632403
With the stock radiator cover on, the hood pins almost look like they came with the car.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=143569&d=1614632734
Here's the completed hood with the functional button-type hood pins installed - just like the GT500.

Carlos

Carlos C

03-26-2021, 10:10 PM

The Mustang has been completed for about two weeks, but I forgot to post the photos. You may notice that there are no racing stripes on it and that would be because the kit I purchase was supposed to be Anthracite metallic grey, which would match my wheel. Instead, what I received was some kind of medium grey. Unfortunately, I did not realize this until I had laid them down on the hood and peeled the top protective layer off. I was very unhappy with the color, so I ended up peeling off the stripes. I may end up going with matte black stripes later. I've seen them on another black Mustang and they look good.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145201&d=1616811245

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145202&d=1616811270
You'll notice how much lower the car is now compared to how it was before.

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145207&d=1616813945

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145206&d=1616813928

I happened to take the car for a dyno run today. I'm glad to report that my car made as much power as the actual GT500. The shop owner actually has one and he admitted as much. I also did the calculation and it pans out. The engine kept making horsepower all the way to the redline. The pull was made on 5th gear.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=145205&d=1616812099

Besides maybe later on adding the racing stripes, the only thing I plan to do is replacing the "5.0" and "GT" emblems for the one I used on the front grill. For now though, I have some after-market parts to put on my truck, but most importantly, I need to get back to work on the Coupe.

Carlos

Carlos C

08-15-2023, 05:51 PM

Hey everyone,

Well, it's been over 2 years since my last post. I know, I know, I keep disappearing. Besides all the tribulations I had gone through up until my last post, my luck got worse. I started getting really sick with multiple symptoms and conditions which could not be explained. Found out last year that I was exposed to mold in my own home for 2 years, thanks to an A/C tech who created a leak in my upstairs unit. It took that long to notice real damage, but by then it was almost too late for me. I ended up suffering from many medical issues which kept me from being able to do much. I ended up quitting my job earlier last year because of the illnesses, and experienced two near-death situations due to the conditions, which had not been identified then.

Fortunately, I've been under the care of multiple doctors and I feel somewhat better and out of the woods, but still a long way to go before I am healthy. I keep fighting while working in the garage a few hours on the days I feel well enough.

I haven't posted anything, even though there has been progress, because I feel tired of disappointing everyone on this forum whom have been following this build. For that, I'd like to apologize. This car should have been completed a long time ago (as Henry keeps reminding me - thanks for keeping me on my toes), but I have other goals I need to accomplish, so I'm still focus on finishing this project first. The thought of giving up and selling this car, or having others finish it for me, has not entered my mind, and will not happen unless I become too sick to continue on a long-term or permanent basis.

Please be patient with me, as I presently have to take care of my health first and I'm not able to work full time in the garage. I'll be posting from time to time, especially during key parts of the build, or when I conduct custom work, but I won't be posting every little step of the process as I used to do.

Self-pity party over; now for the good stuff, read below.

Carlos

Carlos C

08-15-2023, 06:33 PM

For the last 9 months or so, I've been back in the garage. All the electrical, including custom circuits are completed. I'm about to test all circuits shortly, but have some loose ends to take care of first. The custom center console is also done. I cut the dash in half, as there was too much tension and warpage at the bend due to the angle it sits on the frame. The separation eliminated this issue. The vertical portion of the dash has received quite a few custom modifications and is now completed. All switches have been labeled by laser-etching custom powder-coated panels. The steering hub has been altered in order to use a quick-release with the Russ Thompson turn signal stalk (instructions to follow for those interested in this modification and are not aware of how to perform it). Some of the FFR-supplied carpet has been slightly modified and permanently installed (although it doesn't show on any of the photos posted here).

Some of the other modifications are: Switched out the engine's upper intake manifold, for the one that was originally on my 358. It turned out that the one I installed on the 347 is larger and taller, with a 90 mm opening, while the one that was on the 358 is only 75 mm. Not only does it make sense in swapping them out, but it eliminated the clearance issues with the body and hood. There will be a little more custom work in the trunk before I lay down the carpet. I also need to build an air filter box once the body is on the chassis. I had realized that with the seat bolted down and steering wheel on, I needed to be a contortionist in order to get in and out of the car. I ended up modifying the seat tracks, the floor, the seat, and the seat brackets. That gained me a couple of inches of height and length; but it wasn't enough. That's when I started researching for a quick-release I could modify to use with the FFR hub and steering shaft, and the RT turn signal stalk. Once I found one (on this forum, mind you), I did the work and it turned out great. Not only does it give me much more room for ingress and egress, but that's another security measure against car theft.

My next two big ticket items are to complete testing all the electrical circuits and first start. Hopefully, I'll accomplish these very soon.

Here are some of the custom panels made for the switches, plus a vanity decal for the dash. I fabricated and powder-coated them, and had the trophy/plaque shop at the Air Force base close to me laser etch them, after I provided digital drawings of all the symbols.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188890&d=1692135074

Installed a door popper system with the actuators attached to the door frames via custom-fabricated brackets.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188889&d=1692135074

Vertical portion of the dash and center console completed (with yet unaltered steering hub).
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188888&d=1692135074

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188887&d=1692135074

These are older photos which don't show all the progress made so far. More to come...

EDIT:

There are other modifications and custom work which have been performed:

Installed a line lock system, a shift light, a brake bias valve, fuel pressure gauge, air/fuel ratio gauge, vacuum/pressure gauge, reverse camera with reverse lights, a switched front bumper camera, forward and aft-facing security camera system, and a rear view mirror with integrated screen for the front bumper and reverse cameras.

Carlos

Carlos C

08-16-2023, 05:50 PM

The following are the instructions to convert your FFR-supplied steering hub with the RT modification for his turn signal stalk.

Parts and tools needed:

1. SRT-400 or equivalent quick-disconnect hub from NRG (easy to find in Amazon).
2. 4.2mm drill bit
3. Drill
4. 5.5mm or 3/16" drill bit
5. M5 x 0.8 tap
6. M5 x 0.8 - 10 (or M5 x 0.8 - 12) stainless steel flathead bolts (x6) [fairly easy to find at Ace Hardware]. Note: The longer bolts are easier to find, but you may have to cut them down so they'll sit flush to the FFR steering hub.
7. Countersink (1/2" is good, 3/4" is better)
8. Drill center hole punch
9. Black marker (Sharpie with fine and ultra fine points is best)
10. Dremel tool with cutting wheel or equivalent
11. Belt sander with 80 grit or grinding wheel

Parts and tools not required but recommended:

1. Drill press (to make sure the new holes on the FFR hub are drilled straight)
2. Plastic jigs created by members on this forum to keep parts concentric while marking the holes to be drilled. If unable to get these from the forum and not having a 3D printer, I've included instructions here on how to get it done right the first time without the jigs. The jig set has two separate parts which are completely different. One is for the steering wheel to NRG front half of the hub, and the other is for the FFR hub and back half of the NRG hub.
3. 1 1/2" hole saw (if you don't have the jigs)
4. Any cylindrical item with a 52mm outside diameter (if you don't have the jigs). I happened to have a big socket with this measurement, but ended up using the jigs instead.

Instructions:

This NRG quick-disconnect uses all metric hardware, which is why you're required to get metric bolts, drill bits and tap. The next couple of photos show top and bottom of this hub as it comes out of the box.

Bottom view
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188896&d=1692137129

Top view
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188895&d=1692137129

1. Remove the two electrical connectors from both halves of the hub and discard. These are for a horn, which the FFR steering wheel does not have a provision for. Remove the front half of the NRG hub from its collar by unlocking and turning the collar. Remove the two screws holding the back half of the hub to the collar and carefully remove it while using a small flathead screwdriver or equivalent to keep the locking spring and pin from flying out.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188897&d=1692137129

2. Place both halves of the FFR/RT hub together and hold in place with two bolts. Using the marker, mark the top of this hub. The RT half of this hub has a "T" punched for top. If you're not using the jigs, mark this part of the hub at the rear, as you'll be marking and drilling from the back. If you have the jigs, skip this step, as you'll be able to use the "T" as reference when marking and drilling from the front. Do the same for both halves of the NRG hub, although the top of each half is already marked with round indentations.

3a. If you have the plastic jigs: The back half of the NRG hub's rear lip (where one of the electrical connector was) needs to be cut out completely and then ground down until you get a smooth surface. I used a Dremel with cutting wheel and a belt sander to achieve this as per the photo below. This needs to be done in order for the NRG hub to sit flush with the FFR steering hub.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188898&d=1692137317

3b. If you don't have the plastic jigs: the smaller section of the FFR hub is 1.5" in diameter. Using a 1 1/2" hole saw mark the circle at the center of the rear half of the NRG hub. Place the hub on the drill press and cut the hole. Fit the modified back half of the NRG hub at the rear of the FFR hub without the Russ Thompson section of the hub, line up the top of each hub together mark/punch the top hole on the FFR hub.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188899&d=1692137317

4. Drill with the 4.2mm bit and thread with the M5 x .8 tap. The drilling portion of this step is better done with a drill press. Install one of the NRG supplied allen head M5 x .8 bolts. This will keep the two parts from rotating. Then mark/punch the remaining 5 bolt holes and repeat the process of drilling and tapping. Make sure that the new bolt holes are centered between the original holes. If you did not use the jigs, and once you've made sure that all the bolts line up with both hubs, you can now follow step "3a" above for the procedure to cut and grind down the lip of the NRG's back half of the hub. The photo below shows this step being performed with the jig installed. The result will be the same, but without the jig, it takes a couple of extra steps.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188900&d=1692137317

5. Once you've installed all the bolts to make sure you have a complete alignment, separate these two parts. You will need the rear half of the NRG hub for the next step. The photo below shows the final result of the previous step.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188901&d=1692137361

Continued on the next post.

Carlos

Carlos C

08-16-2023, 07:17 PM

6. Mate the two halves of the NRG hub together and turn them upside-down. You'll notice that the rear portion of the front half protrudes past the back half of the hub where you cut out the rear lip. You need to get these parts flush with each other. You have two options here; you can either cut off a few millimeters off it, or use a belt sander to grind down the protruding part of the hub. Once again, this needs to be performed in order for the NRG hub to sit flush with the FFR hub. The photo below shows that I used the belt sander and the result where both parts are flush.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188902&d=1692137361

7. Countersink the original FFR hub bolt holes. This is necessary to have the NRG hub sit flush to it.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188903&d=1692137361

8a. If you have the jigs: Place the jig with the 52mm diameter into the front half of the NRG hub. Mark the top of the steering wheel carefully, insert the steering wheel into the same jig and onto the NRG front hub. Align the "top" marks together. Mark/punch for the new holes in the steering wheel through the NRG hub and to the back of the steering wheel. If done correctly, the spacing between the hub new holes to be drilled and the steering wheel original holes will be almost centered with no chance of overlapping holes. In order to make sure that all the new holes on the steering wheel and the NRG hub will align, follow the aforementioned procedure to drill the first hole and install a bolt through both, the steering wheel and NRG front hub. This way, the two items will not rotate on you as you're attempting to mark and punch for the rest of the holes.

Steering wheel and front NRG hub centered using the jig.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188906&d=1692137401

8b. If you don't have the jigs: Place a 52"mm cylindrical item over the NRG front hub half and then place the steering wheel over it as well. Depending on the NRG unit you purchased, the bottom lip inside the NRG hub may not be quite 52mm in diameter, necessitating for a quick run with a wheel grinder on a Dremel tool, in order to make it fit properly. You can now follow the procedure on step "8a" above.

9. Drill the new steering wheel holes with a 5.5mm or 3/16" bit.

10. Once you're finished with the previous step, separate the hub from the steering wheel. Use the countersink at the front of the steering wheel where the new holes were drilled. Just like with the original holes, the new bolts need to be flush on the steering wheel for the FFR steering wheel cap to sit flush. Re-installed the bolts to the steering wheel / NRG front hub combo using blue Loctite.

Modified steering wheel
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188985&d=1692228957

The photos below show the NRG front half attached to the steering wheel using the hardware store-procured M5 x .8 flathead bolts. I needed to cut down these bolts by a couple of millimeters, in order for them not to protrude and create contact with the back half of the hub, which won't allow the two NRG hub sections to mate.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188986&d=1692228957

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188987&d=1692228957

11. You may now bolt down the two halves of the FFR/RT steering hub together using either, the FFR or RT-supplied hub bolts. If using the RT bolts, you will need to mark them once installed, remove them, and cut them down so they will sit flush to the hub.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188904&d=1692137401

12. Re-install the back half of the NRG hub to the FFR hub for the final time using the NRG-supplied allen head bolts with blue Loctite.

13. Attach the back half of the NRG hub to the NRG collar using the original hardware. Be careful placing the spring and locking pin back into place. These pieces are very small and can go flying while attempting to attach the hub to the collar. This also goes while separating these two parts. The manufacturer explicitly states on their instructions that they are not responsible for lost parts, in the event that the customer decides to take the unit apart, and they will not sell these parts separately.

Continued on next post.

Carlos

Carlos C

08-16-2023, 08:30 PM

14. You may run into an issue, as I did, depending on the NRG model you purchased. You may have noticed that there is an aluminum tension ring inside the front half of the NRG hub. This is to keep a horn button in place. Unfortunately, mine did not have a total of 52mm diameter at that spot. This means that the FFR steering wheel cap will not stay on. You'll have a few options here, including replacing the cap's o-ring with a thicker one, replacing the tension ring for a thicker one (purchased or fabricated), among others. Since I already had 0.20 aluminum sheet laying around, I decided to add to the installed ring. This worked perfectly for me. The way I did this was to cut a 3/8" x 5 1/2" piece and use my roller to make a perfect circle. I arrived at the 5.5 inches of circumference by using the following formula: (diameter x pi) - .5 inches. The 1/2" is to allow a gap for the ring to compress while inserting it into the lip, on top of the original ring. If you plan to replace the original ring, you'll need to measure the diameter of that lip without the ring in place, as your sheet aluminum length will be larger than if you're adding to the original ring (hope I didn't confuse anyone). Remember to account for a gap on the ring. Also, make sure that when you roll the aluminum, it is not the same diameter as the lip. You need to keep tension on the new ring so it'll expand onto the lip and stays in place. If you decide to use a larger o-ring instead, you may run into a problem with the new o-ring not sitting properly into the cap's machined depression, and may come out of it and roll while inserting the cap, giving you a poor fit.

15. Once the ring is in place, and depending on what method you used, you may not need to have an o-ring on the cap any longer. In my situation, it was a very snug fit without the o-ring. The only way the cap will come out is by pushing it from the backside of the steering wheel through the NRG front hub.

The photos below show the process I used to install the cap.
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188982&d=1692228957

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188983&d=1692228957

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188984&d=1692228957

This is the final product!
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188988&d=1692231496

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188989&d=1692231496

https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=188992&d=1692235522

I'd like to thank the amazingly smart people on this forum for coming up with this solution and keeping me from reinventing the wheel, and especially my friend for letting me borrow the jigs.

Final Notes:

1. This procedure is only for the use on FFR Coupe / Roadster steering wheels with the Russ Thompson turn signal stalk modification already completed.
2. As stated above, be careful removing and reinstalling the NRG hubs locking pin and spring. If lost, you may have to purchase a new complete unit.
3. Measure twice... no, three times and drill once. You'll only get one chance to get this modification done correctly. If you mess up, you'll need to purchase new parts.
4. This is a fairly simple modification, but very tedious. It's not as complicated as I may have made it seem on these posts. Either way, it works perfectly and is one of my favorite mods I've done on this car so far.
5. There are other models NRG makes which are similar in looks and function. I found out that there's another I personally put my hands on (can't recall the model number) which looks the same as mine (SRT-400), but at least one lip diameter was slightly different. Also, it seems that other members of this forum have used a couple of different models. Therefore, although these instructions may work with other models, I can only guarantee that my instructions will work with the SRT-400.

Please feel free contacting me with any questions or suggestions regarding these instructions.

Carlos

Jacob McCrea

08-21-2023, 09:20 AM

I could only skim through the photos but the craftsmanship and attention to details look second to none. Hang in there; if it were easy everyone would do it.

Carlos C

08-21-2023, 12:12 PM

I could only skim through the photos but the craftsmanship and attention to details look second to none. Hang in there; if it were easy everyone would do it.

Thanks for the kind words, Jacob. I'm hanging the best I can...

Carlos

Carlos C

11-06-2023, 07:30 PM

Completed the driver side footbox after testing all the circuits, carpeted both footboxes, installed the amp's controller on the center console and tested the sound system. It's really loud, even without the 6 x 9's which will be mounted behind the seats. I have all the equipment for that, but haven't mounted them yet. Other odds and ends have been completed. Pics to follow at a later time.

Filled the vehicle with fluids - except the refrigerant - and it's ready for the first start, but ran into an issue: the headers don't fit. You see, I had ordered this kit when I planned to use a 351. When I abruptly decided to use a 302-based engine instead, I never ordered the pipes, foolishly thinking that the Gen2 and its pipes would be around for a long time. Then the Gen3 came out with a completely different exhaust. So now I have a dilemma. According to FFR, they don't have Gen 2 302 headers laying around. It looks like, unless I can find someone in this forum who has a set of these headers, I'll have to butcher mine to make them fit.

So please, if you have a set of Gen 2 Coupe headers for a 302, and willing to part ways with them, let me know. I'm willing to pay or do an even trade for my brand-new set of Gen 2 Coupe 351 headers. They don't have to be new, so long they are in good condition. I also posted this on the classifieds.

Carlos