IRS ebrake cables

[stroked 6t5]

Hi all,
Well I'm at the stage of ebrake cables. I understand that I should use the ones that come with the calipers. I'm running a 1995 MK8 IRS and brakes and I looked at the kit supplied cables and aside from being cheezy they are way to long. I was wondering what you all have used stock or not to get the job done. Any photos, part numbers or advise would be great. FFR wasn't of much help. Many thanx.
Regards,
Andy

[Pastenseverb]

I left you a post on the other form as well.

I know they seem long but they work out ok. FFR wants you to use the 4” tube as a lever for the cables ( I know it’s hokey but it works). In other words route the cable under the 4” tube and back up to the E brake lever. Mine has worked fine since I don’t use the E brake every time I get out of the car. Others have engineered a new system. Here is a pic of mine before i pulled the horseshoe pin.

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[stroked 6t5]

Doug,
Thanx for the info and photo but what did you do on the caliper end and cable routing through the IRS? Many thanx.
Regards,
Andy

[Pastenseverb]

I don’t have a picture to show you but i ran the cable from the caliper and wire tied it to the lower control arm with wire ties. It was very close to the axle shafts so I used the wide/heavy ties to keep it in position. from there it ran along the lower control arm until it curved around to the mounting point on the frame. I’ll try to get a picture later today.

BTW, I considered cutting the cables and re routing but wasn’t willing to risk the integrity of my Ebrake cables for a moderate fix. I stuck with FFRs engineering and it works good.

Edit; added pics.
Here is a pic from the rear. I hope it shows what your looking for;
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Here is one from the top of the trans tunnel;
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[carlewms]

Here is an alternative if you are using the FFR supplied brake assembly:

Folks,

In keeping with my plans to maintain the original car look and minimizes the modifications from the FFR design, I settled on using the FFR handle assembly. The problem with that assembly is that it requires routing the cables under the 4 in crossmember which, in my view is not a good thing to do because it exposes the cables too much and, without sheathing, also causes more wear on the member and the cables.

After mocking up the handle assembly, I realized that the easiest fix would be to extend the Mount to Rachet bracket to allow the routing to come over the crossmember. Here is a photo showing the original mount over the redesigned mount.

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Since I had already purchased cables for the Locke universal, I have a termination point for the cables which will be mounted to provide a smooth transition for the cables to the handle assembly.

Here are the views from the Passenger Side . The brake fully engages in about 3 clicks.

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See post 75 for more details of my build thread for more details.

Carl

[stroked 6t5]

Hi all,
Thanx for all your ideas. Like everything else on this build I've have decided to take what was supplied and change it. Just back from the local speed shop with a few goodies. I will mount the front to the Mustang lever as intended and use the snap in bracket for the sheathing and from there on back custom and fabricated. I will cut the sheathing and the cables to the proper length for each side and install a new stop at the end of the cables. Throw in a couple of fabbed up brackets and done like dinner. Could be gocarting as early as this weekend. Thanx again.
Regards,
Andy

[bwwooster]

Can you let us know what you do about new stops at the ends of the shortened cables? I found it to be kind of a PITA-- I had to go to a marine (sailboat) rigging shop and have them swage on a pair of stops. The only way to adjust the length to balance it is to shim the housings with washers.