Wish 2B 33 building [Archive] - Factory Five Forums

erlihemi

03-12-2014, 04:11 PM

Ok, My stage 1 kit is still at factory five waiting for yet another storm to pass before Stewart can head my way. I'll have to put skis on it to get it up my driveway...
Fed ex dropped off the wheels last week. I have two engines tore down and ready to go to the machine shop. Tranny decision pending.

So I only ordered the go kart for a couple reasons. Wife said toy box is full and something else has to go and I haven't decided on a "theme" for the car. I like the looks of the full fenders with roof but my priority is the fattest, stickiest tires I can get on it. Solo cone racing isn't conducive to full fenders. I also am considering different nose and roof treatments aka some of VMAN's renderings.

I also will be using non standard engine and driveline so I need some fab time with motor mounts, headers, etc. I'm hoping the chassis work will evolve into how I want to build the body. I like the soft springs and sway bar work some of the guys are doing. Seems like the right thing to do??
So I need the Goldilocks kit with 3 options like the old revell models...

First engine choice is a baby 291ci Desoto Hemi. Yes you read that correctly. I thought the Roush guy was going to flip out on me at the build school. Just for that I might even put a 34 Plymouth nose on it with a Fernando hood ornament!!

So here I go, Hoping for delivery by the weekend. Wish me luck, call me crazy, but don't bend my dog tags!!

68GT500MAN

03-12-2014, 04:17 PM

Sounds like a very interesting build will be underway soon. Keep on dreaming and make the project match!
Doug

Silent T

03-12-2014, 05:52 PM

That's the great thing about these cars. The configurations are endless!
Half the fun is dreaming (or staying up all night thinking about) what to do.
I look forward to watching it come together.

MT-ED

03-12-2014, 06:30 PM

Could be very pretty indeed.

http://www.hothemiheads.com/desoto/images/hilborndesoto291.1.jpg

erlihemi

03-12-2014, 07:07 PM

That's pretty close! I'll probably mill the fins down on the O'Brien valve covers. Paint the block hemi orange. Start with a 4bbl manifold and go to FAST FI later. Sanderson headers unless I have to build my own. I've been known to adapt 318 front covers to these blocks and use competition eng motor plates. Tricks are in rotating assembly and camshaft. I have a couple billet roller cams from Don Johansen. One is mild for this build and the other one is for a different effort. Quick time bell housing with hydraulic clutch yada, yada.
My time will be in playing with suspension and learning to drive the car hard. I'm new to turning left and right...

Mike6568

03-12-2014, 07:20 PM

I'm glad I'm only about 40 miles from this build, I have to follow this one. Sounds very interesting.

myjones

03-13-2014, 09:45 AM

Could be very pretty indeed.
http://www.hothemiheads.com/desoto/images/hilborndesoto291.1.jpg
As Martin just alluded to in the picture, it takes a lot of balls to put a Hemi in one of these no matter which Hemi you choose
Dale Berry
3rd gen Hemi 33
7L/426

erlihemi

03-13-2014, 08:45 PM

Thanks for the encouragement! I have a 68 barracuda coupe with a 354 and I believe that one was harder to fit the engine than this 33 will be. I had a spare engine on a mocked up K- frame to make headers for that one. My brother runs a late model charger in SCCA F stock so he has a 3rd gen hemi. I ran a friends 280zx a few times last year so that got me interested in sticky tires on all 4 corners. I just gotta be different so this 33 looked like the toy for me.
I hope to get the "raw" build done in time to make some runs in the fall and the do the "radical" body sculpting next winter.

erlihemi

03-15-2014, 06:04 PM

Build #640 is officially underway!
26939

erlihemi

03-17-2014, 07:41 PM

So of course I've got parts on backorder that I kind of wanted early, like the spindles and control arm bolts. Project 101... improvise, adapt, and conquer something else. I'll work on modified motor mounts, pedal box and the steering column. Kinda in a hurry to mock up the hemi and see where fitment issues arise. Wife and I are arguing about colors and such already. She wants me to go "Desoto Gold" with some other gold "accents" and I'm thinking lots of chrome, polished aluminum, and hemi orange accents. So powder coating is dependent on whether I go with a pre-WWII blue-gray satin two tone body or a charcoal satin. I may have a compromise solution that will work without body color commitment. Really need one of those digital coloring "books" for this.

erlihemi

03-19-2014, 07:48 PM

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Since I'm waiting on components from F5R I got out the sawzall and started mocking up one of the tranny options. Planning on first mock up of engine and tranny this weekend. Don't use my photos as an assembly guide. That tranny doesn't match the bell housing and that bell housing won't be the final configuration. Just getting centerlines, and basic alignment within 1/2" before I start putting serious coin into SFI components and hydraulic clutches. This is still in feasibility and aesthetics stage.

erlihemi

03-22-2014, 08:18 PM

Still waiting on backordered parts...
27143
Set the mock up engine in to see how it might fit. Engine in photo is a tall deck Desoto Hemi. This sets the heads higher and wider than the 291 I plan to use. I set it on the ford 302 mounts just for establishing the crank centerline relative to the chassis. Looks like it is going to have plenty of room. The 291 will require cutting the top bolt off the F5 ford attachment point to clear the front cylinder header tubes. The tall deck engine might look better with the valve covers hanging over the front tube, but, it weighs considerably more both static and rotating assembly. The little 291 should be a better choice for this cars handling.

myjones

03-23-2014, 10:17 AM

27143
Set the mock up engine in to see how it might fit. Engine in photo is a tall deck Desoto Hemi. This sets the heads higher and wider than the 291 I plan to use. I set it on the ford 302 mounts just for establishing the crank centerline relative to the chassis. Looks like it is going to have plenty of room. The 291 will require cutting the top bolt off the F5 ford attachment point to clear the front cylinder header tubes. The tall deck engine might look better with the valve covers hanging over the front tube, but, it weighs considerably more both static and rotating assembly. The little 291 should be a better choice for this cars handling.

I had to cut off that top bolt and part of those gussets on my 3rd gen hemi for header clearance as well. By comparison my 6.1 is wider or longer than that 1st gen in your picture. My heads almost hang out over the frame right at the front corner. That corner of the head is right above the back tab for the upper control arm mounts. You have that engine nice and low but will the tranny let you keep it that low. On mine the tranny resting on the cab floor was the control point IF I wanted to keep the driveline angles at 1-2*
Dale
Hemi33

Boz1911

03-23-2014, 10:42 AM

This is going to be a cool build. Keep us posted for sure !!

erlihemi

03-23-2014, 08:24 PM

Dale,

You're correct on the driveline angle and engine setting low. Until I get the rear and front suspension loaded I have nothing to really use as a guide. I need to raise the tranny just a little more which will pick the front of the motor up 1/2 - 3/4". You mentioned your Gen 3 is a little longer which is my next check at the rack for pulley space which I should be ok on. Next week I'll position mounts differently and try the 291 block with the crank and pulleys in it. I should have some detailed photos of mounts at that point.
I'll load a 354 Chrysler in it too just to have the photos for record.

My biggest concern is the A833 side shifter won't be compatible with the tunnel or I won't like the wide gear ratio spread. TKO may still be in the future.
Where are those spindles!!!

erlihemi

03-26-2014, 08:40 PM

Called the factory and Spindles aren't due in until the end of May!! Given that the Frame went on order in January that's a little disappointing. Sounds like a pile of spindles are gonna be shipped late. These are unique to the 33 so I'll have to look into this a little.

erlihemi

03-29-2014, 07:40 PM

Today I reconfigured the motor mounts and put the little hemi in. I wont need to cut the top bolts off the frame mounts now. This low deck motor sets completely different than the previous motor. I used a set of 360 4WD dodge truck mounts to mock it up on the ford mounts which are moved forward of the vertical tube. If I leave this as is I need to put a "Z" bracket from the upper control arm bracket to the upper mount hole and run a tube under the oil pan connecting the lower holes to stabilize the mounts. Not sure if this will be the final set up, but I'm happy with the position of the engine and tranny now. Actually surprised I could do it without more fabrication.
This lets me move on to the steering gear and hanging the pedal assembly. Maybe I can even consider the power rack now.
27413
Sure would look nice with a little blower on it wouldn't it??

myjones

03-30-2014, 06:07 AM

Today I reconfigured the motor mounts and put the little hemi in. I wont need to cut the top bolts off the frame mounts now. This low deck motor sets completely different than the previous motor. This lets me move on to the steering gear and hanging the pedal assembly. Maybe I can even consider the power rack now.
Sure would look nice with a little blower on it wouldn't it??
The dizzy is on the wrong end of the motor ;>)
So the headers won't still be the biggest concern for those mounts? It looks like the front primaries will still cut right through the FF frame gusset.
I found it a lot easier to put the power steering motor up on the firewall to avoid conflict with the oil pan and the headers on mine.
Love the pics
Dale

erlihemi

03-30-2014, 05:18 PM

The dizzy don't get in da way there! So triangular geometry (trigonometry?) made a difference in this application. I originally thought the lower deck height would be an issue, but when I got the front up 2 degrees with the tranny at the correct height it became obvious that with the heads inboard about 3/4" from the "big" motor I had more room. Keep in mind I probably will use small port heads and tight radius header tubes. This motor only needs 1 5/8" header tubes. Also these early heads point the exhaust down more than the later versions. My real challenge is selecting appropriate tranny and clutch options. I'm trying to keep rotating mass low and let the little "feller" rev up.
I have to order the SFI bell to get the foot box fit up. I have the "truck" bell starter bump up against the foot box and I don't want to go forward with the engine.

Couple pics of a tight fit...
27434
27435

erlihemi

04-27-2014, 08:02 PM

Having a beer cooler in the garage may not be the best idea...

28346

erlihemi

04-27-2014, 08:30 PM

To be clear... I am not putting a 392 with a batwing air cleaner in this chassis...permanently. The aero effect of the batwing isn't conducive to Bonneville speeds...

erlihemi

04-28-2014, 09:09 PM

Fed ex brought me spindles and a wiring harness today. Time to quit playing with motors and get serious...

myjones

04-30-2014, 06:02 AM

Fed ex brought me spindles and a wiring harness today. Time to quit playing with motors and get serious...

You should consider flipping the steering links side to side. I really think it is part of the answer to bumpsteer but so far no one has confirmed it.
I flipped mine but since I changed everything but the spindles I don't know if it will work for you.
DB
Hemi33

erlihemi

04-30-2014, 07:10 PM

I don't have them in front of me. I'm assuming that moves the centerline up? I thought as long as I didn't put too much oil in the air cleaner I could keep it between the cones.:)

myjones

05-01-2014, 07:17 AM

I don't have them in front of me. I'm assuming that moves the centerline up? I thought as long as I didn't put too much oil in the air cleaner I could keep it between the cones.:)

Mine are at the painters but I think I have a picture of them showing the small chamfer needed to flip them. From memory the offset down is less than an inch but you double that when flipped. WOW oil bath air cleaners, not sure I should even admit knowing what that is. ;>)
Dale

MT-ED

05-01-2014, 08:31 AM

An oil-bath air-cleaner might be cool at Pebble Beach, but not on a beaching Hot Rod :p

erlihemi

07-07-2014, 08:29 PM

31143
It's been awhile since I posted here. Spring brought a bazillion other projects but I managed to slap an 8.8 together and order tires. Missed a buy on a T5 and still need to get motor to the machine shop...
More boxes empty than full anyhow.

31144

myjones

07-08-2014, 06:34 AM

31084
still need to get motor to the machine shop...
31083

I lost track during the Hemi shuffle, which motor did you decide to use?
DB

David Hodgkins

07-08-2014, 09:08 AM

erlihemi, Try lowering the res on your pics to a max of 1600x1600 before attaching them to your posts.

Then they will appear like this, instead of just a link:
31106

Better yet, create a pic album and link to them directly.

Here's a link to your album gallery:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/album.php?&u=12136

Create an album, upload some pics, then copy/paste the BB code on the screen when viewing the pic in your album into your post and it will appear full size, like this:

[IMG]http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=2721&d=1309631419

:)

erlihemi

07-09-2014, 08:37 PM

DB I won't commit to the motor until its fired and cam broke in!! But 291 is still the plan...

erlihemi

10-14-2014, 07:21 PM

So I've been negligent on keeping this post updated. I have selected a close ratio TKO for a tranny, Aluminum flywheel, and ordered stage 2 of the kit. Engine needs to go to the machinist and I need to fabricate exhaust before I rivet the floor. It will keep me from getting bored this winter.

Tim Whittaker

10-16-2014, 09:50 AM

We have a number of parts to enhance your build. Check us out.

Tim Whittaker

erlihemi

10-16-2014, 06:59 PM

Tim, Nice stuff, well thought out. Thanks for the info.

erlihemi

01-04-2015, 04:35 PM

37209
I played around with moving the pedal box towards the passenger side. Gained an inch, so I may be able to make a 3 toe rest for my left foot if I wear ballerina shoes. To do this required shifting the column over about 1/2" also. Notching the tunnel may follow.

erlihemi

01-04-2015, 04:44 PM

BTW, I noticed the button head bolts supplied with the pedal box are not long enough to fully engage the Nyloc nuts. kind of useless to supply Nyloc nuts and not have adequate thread protrusion.

mhrobichaud58

01-08-2015, 10:26 PM

I like the 'out of the box' thinking

mhrobichaud58

01-08-2015, 10:32 PM

erlihemi

01-09-2015, 08:08 PM

I played with mine quite a bit. if you're moving the pedals over (there is plenty of room between the tranny and the brake pedal to adjust things)
it helped me to make it so the pedal set up can be removed after the car is built.
I changed my master cylinder sizes after the first season of driving!

I'll feel like I've built the car 3 times by the time all the body work is done! I wanted to move the pedal box so I could finalize the column position and have a glimmer of hope for a foot rest. The Hemi doesn't allow for the electric steering to mount as designed so if I go with it I have to move it closer to the firewall. I almost went with a floor mounted pedal box but that creates other issues. What master cylinder sizes did you have to go to? Do you have six piston calipers?

erlihemi

04-21-2015, 08:58 PM

Still building one rivet at time. Sorry, Haven't kept this post up to date. Exhaust is in back to differential. Floor pans and Boyd tank installed. Kirkey seat positioned. Custom pistons from Ross enroute for the 291. Working on door brackets, tunnel, and throttle position. Nothing picture worthy yet.

Mike6568

04-22-2015, 08:40 AM

I heard you have a pretty good turn out at the cruise-in in Vestal on Saturday nights? Once that gets going I'm going to make the trip down with the '33, maybe I could take a peek at your build? Enjoy our "early spring"....

erlihemi

04-22-2015, 07:31 PM

Absolutely. I hope to mount the body in a couple weekends and start the second stage work. I may have to revive the cuda to have a cruiser this spring. I incorrectly arranged vehicles in heated and non heated garages before winter so my wife didn't do anything on the lassie truck and I ignored the cuda. Winter was so bad my son moved to Alaska. really.

erlihemi

07-02-2015, 08:40 PM

Still haven't gotten to the body. I have played a little with interior work and started wiring. 43300

I moved the pedal mount about 1.5" to the right and the column about 3/4" to the right. Then moved the pedals back left half way.
This gave me a little foot room for clutch and a foot rest.

erlihemi

10-30-2015, 06:27 PM

Time to wake this thread back up. Construction season is winding down and I'll be back in the garage soon. Built a cabin, substation, and a couple other things on the day job, but didn't get much done in the toy box. Time to shift priorities...

H R Lucky

10-30-2015, 10:14 PM

erlihemi

10-31-2015, 07:59 AM

Me in,
I'll post some pics soon. Pretty straight forward. On the right side of the pedal box I cut the ears off to move the wildwood over. On the left side I welded a piece of 1" stock. I still drilled double holes to move the box fore and aft. The clutch will hit the steering shaft so offset that to the right of the bracket with spacers. I may still limit the travel of the clutch slightly so that means going to a larger master cylinder to get volume for the release bearing. Be careful here as you can blow out a hydraulic bearing so a limit bolt may be required. Probably this won't work with the mustang cable clutch.
This assumes you can narrow or notch the tunnel. I feel like the column is centered better also. I am playing with the correct placement of a left foot rest but until I get seat height and lumbar support set that will wait. I still may notch the corners of the pedals also. My feet aren't that big so I don't know if all this is necessary but I want a 5 speed and cruising comfort. The Kirkey seats are nice but I don't know how a big guy could go with the next size wider. I can't get my hand down either side of the seat. I actually got the idea for the foot rest sitting in an 818 and my Impreza. Next car gets paddle shifters...

erlihemi

11-01-2015, 06:32 PM

Post # 34 has a pic of the bracket welded.

4706347064

If your shoe size is larger than a 10 this may be futile...

erlihemi

11-01-2015, 06:39 PM

H R Lucky

11-01-2015, 07:01 PM

47065

The orange piece is the foot rest. This can mount in 2 places. One next to the clutch pedal so you can just slide your foot off and hit the pedal and one about 3 inches forward for stretching out and cruising. I used 1/4" rivnuts to the tubing for mounting. Its just a piece of 1/4" thick aluminum angle shaped to fit.

Thanks for the info erli, I get the gist of the operation but I am apparently color blind as I don't see anything orange; oh I didn't see the attachment but after clicking on it, it says invalid attachment.
I am itching for a foot rest also, I was thinking of doing a bump out to the left through the triangle part of the frame, still need to cut & bend the aluminum,
we'll see how it comes out.

thanks again,
Nevin

erlihemi

11-01-2015, 07:41 PM

For some reason this site insists on blocking me while uploading. In post #46 the piece to the left is raw aluminum. I may bump it out in the triangle also, but still need the box moved to the right to make sure my foot clears the pedal if I am in a hurry. Until I am actually driving the car I won't get it finalized. I'm pretty sure the MkIV is tighter so I'll look at those a little.

erlihemi

11-01-2015, 07:45 PM

Actually post 42 showed it pretty well.

H R Lucky

11-01-2015, 07:49 PM

I see it, thanks again.

erlihemi

12-06-2015, 09:14 PM

Finally got back in the garage this weekend,

48356483574835848359

erlihemi

12-06-2015, 09:23 PM

myjones

12-07-2015, 08:23 AM

I like to sit high and have some layback on my Kirkey seat. So while I am not looking at the window frame I am still hitting the roll bar with the back of the seat unless I put the roll bar higher than designed. This creates interference with the hardtop. Yes I did try it with the seat low and a telephone book under my derierre, but the roll bar isn't high enough to do its intended job and I still couldn't find the sweet spot with layback. I probably will end up modifiying the waterfall and putting in a sunroof to see the stop lights, but darn it I'll be comfortable...

EH
Head vs rollcage;
This is one of the topics I discussed at length with the creator of the 33 jim S. At SEMA we had a nice chat where I asked him what a 33 MKII would get IF Dave S ever gave the go ahead. Jim had some really interesting ideas front to back, top to bottom on the next car. One of the ideas I suggested to him was to stretch the hardtop back to the trunk opening and push the top of the passenger compartment wall back that 6" so a roll cage could move back a bit and have proper down-bars going into the trunk. FWIW I moved the receiver tubes outboard a couple inches on mine which also helps with the headroom issue you are having. The waterfall/battery mount/driveshaft clearance/legroom/headroom issues are all related to the design of that back wall and the hardtop shape which is why I nudged him to move it back and angle it steeper into the trunk if they ever redo the 33 chassis. Love the pictures, keep us posted on the outcome
Dale Berry
7Litre Hemi 33

erlihemi

12-07-2015, 12:24 PM

Dale,
We had a top ten list going on someones thread at one point, maybe we should just make suggestons thread. I doubt the volume for this car will justify a MKII effort, but, I have had some similar thoughts regarding roof line and trunk. Would it then look like a 35 or 37 coupe?? Would you take a well known steel repro body and put it on this chassis?? I feel like the 33 design was just practice in solid works and the 818 will be the golden child at this point. If I were solid modeling and created a front suspension like the 33 then my expectation would be a matching roll cage integrated with the frame and body. I also would make my fiberglass molds more production and assembly friendly for the application. I've had several thoughts on this and I just figure if I were to build one from scratch it will be production capable...with more configurability. The seat mounting and rollbar were clearly not well thought out given the use of existing MKIV parts. Once you modify you must continue to modify. If I had caught it earlier I would have made more significant tunnel modifications also, but, it will all work fine and run hard anyway.

erlihemi

04-24-2016, 08:00 PM

I just can't follow directions...

53207

I cut 4 inches out of the grille shell, ordered an off the shelf aluminum radiator that will only need one minor modification. This will be the only pic of this for awhile.
PM me if you just gotta know the part #'s.

erlihemi

08-28-2016, 09:04 PM

57974

Doors actually open and close now, Roof isn't visibly crooked, Kirkey doesn't hit the waterfall, AND slides back and forth without tangling up in the roll bar. Not sure if I will go to glass or more wiring next...
Crap...forgot the trunk lid.

myjones

08-29-2016, 07:05 AM

Save yourself some bodywork on that trunk lid shape and ditch the big hoop hinges as well. You get back trunk space and get gas props in the bargain.

BTW
How much headroom did you gain by cutting out the inner layer of the top?
Dale 7L Hemi33

erlihemi

08-29-2016, 07:47 PM

I have been considering different trunk lid options. Probably won't do the continental kit. Rumble seat is out. That leaves FFR hinges in the way, piano hinge to match theme B2, or other choice tbd.
I was going for leg stretch and seat height so net head room was similar. By putting the bar in the " pocket" I gained about the diameter of the bar. I must have a pic someplace I can post. I still feel the roof has a slight twist in it, but I am getting body lines, and doors to align reasonably well for fiberglass. Drivers door required significant patience, perserverence, and persuasion. Not looking forward to glass.

I'm far enough along now to begin NYS application for VIN and see where that goes.

erlihemi

09-03-2016, 07:53 PM

58167

Its hard to see in flat black, but the bar could still go up another 1/2" if offset pad is used. I can still drop the Kirkey down one hole in the back. So I gained quite a lot of adjustment overall with the pocket in the roof. To go any farther back requires a telescoping steering column and moving some of the instruments to the tunnel. I did lay cloth back into the pocket to maintain roof strength.

Midwest 33 Build

09-18-2016, 06:56 PM

Hi Erlihemi, Can't wait to see that grill finished.

I am thinking of drilling a couple small holes and tracing some electrical into the upper back corners of the roof for interior lighting. It looks like from your photos the roof is hollow from the bottom base up to about 5 or 6 inches from where the headliner starts. Is that correct ?

erlihemi

09-18-2016, 09:43 PM

The grille is difficult. I haven't found happiness there yet. In the photo it is just aluminum rods formed with an S curve.
The roof is two pieces and hollow. It may be possible to fish wire from the front pillar over the door, but, certainly from the waterfall area. I would make a plug connection at the junction of the roof and body so it's easy to take the roof off later. Would be nice to have a map light up over the mail slot.

Midwest 33 Build

09-25-2016, 09:09 PM

Thanks Erlihemi, I will look to place lighting either over the back window or off to the two sides of it.

erlihemi

10-23-2016, 08:09 PM

60100

Next week I start the final bell housing marathon to fit the TKO on to the GenIII Quicktime adapted to the 1955 Hemi using some form of Hydraulic clutch ... buildvilletonshire .

I had to stick a shorty PH43 filter on for now. Once the engine is home and the headers are staying put I can fit the HP-1 on it.

erlihemi

02-08-2017, 09:23 PM

Got it set back in. I really have the tunnel tight.
63833

erlihemi

03-05-2017, 03:44 PM

Doing the final radiator tweaks before I take it to the TIG welder. Lower outlet had to be moved over and angled up, but other than that its an off the shelf radiator. I will end up with the grille shell and radiator as separate units so either can be removed individually. I may even be able to swap the Konis out without pulling the radiator. Fan goes in front as a pusher.
64695646966469764698

myjones

03-05-2017, 06:53 PM

erlihemi

03-05-2017, 09:36 PM

Dale,

I haven't compared dimensions, just tweaking 1/4" at a time. The radiator core is actually the same size. The tanks are smaller than the FFR, . With the layback I can take the rad out the top. Without the brackets it can slip out the front so the shell opening is close to 17" at the top. The shell mounts outside the FFR brackets. I haven't fabbed a belly pan yet, but it looks like it can be a flat louvered sheet now.

erlihemi

04-21-2017, 06:58 PM

The 33 Plymouth has officially come to life. First fire up today and it sounds great. A lot more work left, but, hearing the little Desoto Hemi fire up was a morale boost. I have to wait for a road run due to local conditions. I'm way past go cart at this point so it's time to get NYS application going. I don't think the tachometer supplied is going to last long as it only goes to 7000rpm and I'm running a solid roller. I think the Boyd tank has a different resistance range on the levelometer so all gauges and the dash harness are likely to get pulled later. Now that I'm committed to a Plymouth theme an interior design will follow next fall.
No blown hoses, backfires, or leaks, so I'm claiming victory and a bourbon.

RoadRacer

04-21-2017, 07:56 PM

Hey before the bourbon, where's the video so we can hear it?!

erlihemi

04-30-2017, 02:32 PM

Hey before the bourbon, where's the video so we can hear it?!
Sorry RR, you'll need to live vicariously through WRP for now! My audio inside the garage was horrible and all I had was the Droid.

erlihemi

04-30-2017, 02:44 PM

Cutting and shaping glass fenders this week.

6704367044670456704667047

I probably will go with thinner front tires (235 max) and artillery wheels for the fendered version. This means no bicycle fender version for now as my 255's already hit the upper control arm on full lock. I have the FFR spindles with 12.3" brakes, but, the offsets and back space aren't happy with the bicycle fenders. With no fenders I want huge front tires so I'm already looking at 2 more sets of wheels and tires. That will have to wait.
I took a lot of material out of the side panels so I can pull them off with the Plymouth fenders still in place. Made a "window" for the golden commando hemi. Car Looks better without the side panels, but, gotta have a bug blocker for the long road trip. Lots of wiring left yet also.

myjones

04-30-2017, 05:15 PM

Cutting and shaping glass fenders this week.

I probably will go with thinner front tires (235 max) and artillery wheels for the fendered version. Car Looks better without the side panels, but, gotta have a bug blocker for the long road trip.
You could make some side screen panels for the long trips and keep the open look, shame to hide the Gold.
Any plans to change the back fenders for tire issues?
Dale

RoadRacer

04-30-2017, 05:41 PM

Love that classic chrysler hemi gold

erlihemi

04-30-2017, 08:43 PM

You could make some side screen panels for the long trips and keep the open look, shame to hide the Gold.
Any plans to change the back fenders for tire issues?
Dale

Dale, this whole project is subject to change!! When I saw the steel body with the old stick I had to restrain myself from gutting a flathead panel truck. I've had thoughts of putting the rears on the front with Eibach spacers and getting monster Mickeys for the rear. I've checked 3 different engines and bellhousings for fit up. For now it will go to the NYDOT Inspection with whatever combination of parts are on it when I get tired of playing. It may end up in auto cross trim with Hoosier A7's, no fenders, no roof, or it may keep fat fenders and get softer springs.
This build is loose as I've ever run on one and longer...time to get it on the road in any trim.
Paint and interior next winter.

BW

erlihemi

04-30-2017, 08:49 PM

BTW, the choice of a steel body 33 or genIII coupe project may have to be determined in the fall...;)
Looking for some more beta reports.

erlihemi

05-08-2017, 08:51 PM

I was on a roll Saturday, got interrupted Sunday, and then had one of those project halting spastic thoughts...again,. :eek: I was pie cutting the spare race weight hood to get body lines and belt lines and rake when it occurred to me that maybe I would like a kick up at the rear of the hood 1 - 1 1/2".

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I think if I kick it up so its still below the window line it may do a couple things for me.
1) allow taller aluminum intake
2) keep the windshield defrosted
3) Give the impression of more forward rake
4) maybe some other operation benefit yet to be determined.

Hard to visualize with all the tape, but, its getting in my head. I don't like the bug catcher look on this, but reversing the rise seems to fit the body lines.

erlihemi

08-14-2017, 07:20 AM

722807228172282Had a fun weekend, Got on a closed course and made a few slow runs. Motor mounts good, lower radiator hose worked, no leaks, brakes adequate, but, drove on the throttle most of the time. Lots of interest, comments, and curiosity. Common theme was I didn't bring enough tire...
Couldn't run the fat fenders and had to have the sides on so it ain't pretty, but from the drivers seat it didn't matter!

erlihemi

08-14-2017, 07:38 AM

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Even with an all iron hemi the car is balanced. Fuel tank full and a passenger puts the rear at 51%. Lots of tuning left to do, but made 8 runs with no breakage, no hiccups other than driver induced drifting.

erlihemi

08-15-2017, 06:57 PM

https://www.facebook.com/SNYR.SCCA.autocross/videos/vb.831408916942339/1459642294118995/?type=2&theater
If the link works this is a painfully slow video. Not sure what happened to make a 35 second run into a 2 minute video, but hey , I was drivin not shootin...
Roadracer asked for a video so here it is. Still needs a sound track.

NAZ

08-15-2017, 07:21 PM

Very cool!

TDSapp

08-21-2017, 11:18 AM

So I have a gift for you if you want them. My daily driver is a 2012 Challenger with the 5.7 Hemi. A couple years ago the side of an aluminum ladder was kicked up in front of me on the highway and it damaged my hood. They had to pull it off and repaint it and in the process they pulled the badges off the hood. I told them I wanted to keep the old ones. Really for two reasons.... First was to make sure they did not charge me for new ones and reuse the old ones, and second was just because they are cool.

I really don't have a need for them so if you PM me your address I will mail them to you.

http://hotrod.sapp-family.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/20170818_164126.jpg

Tim Sapp

erlihemi

08-21-2017, 06:39 PM

PM Sent Tim!

erlihemi

09-06-2017, 07:08 PM

When I started this build oh so long ago I was of the intent that Hot Rods should not have air conditioning, automatic transmissions or power steering. I compromised on having a roof due to local weather patterns as I thought I would be able to swap between roadster and coupe easier than reality has allowed. After the maiden voyage around the orange buoys with 10" tires and 8 degrees of caster my older shoulders and tennis elbow protested a little. I also found I couldn't react as fast with a 2600lb rocket as I once could. Fortunately I had just happened to leave a convenient space for electric steering!
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I managed to get the controller between the pedal box and the body which should be cool enough to keep it happy. Kudos to anyone that configure out what I used for the heat shield. Hint...most of you have one around the house someplace. ;)

erlihemi

09-06-2017, 07:20 PM

The above modifications use the Unisteer 220W universal kit, couplings, and a couple fresh pieces of DD shaft. I kept the original manual shaft intact as contingency. I may add the torque control later if I can find room for it and need more "feel".
I also checked on applicability for my Gator. Guess what. I can get the same motor and the controller for $150 less for my gator with all the couplings, brackets, and shafts. Holy price gouging Batman! I do think it may take as long to install in my Gator as I have to disassemble half of the front to get it installed. I have 2 partial days invested in the fabrication and mock up on the Hotrod. Weighed against the other mods I've done on this project, this one was refreshingly easy. I hope to test it in a couple weeks.
Enjoy,

RoadRacer

09-06-2017, 08:23 PM

Kudos to anyone that configure out what I used for the heat shield. Hint...most of you have one around the house someplace. ;)

agh, don't leave us hanging. damned if I can figure it out..

DaveS53

09-07-2017, 08:27 AM

The heat shield looks like a piece of stainless steel from a toaster or similar appliance. I made a heat shield for my vacuum booster from a piece of polished stainless steel that was the case of a small meat grinder that was junked due to stripped gears.

erlihemi

09-07-2017, 11:18 AM

Close Dave! Its from a Gas Grille rebuild kit. Its the shield that goes over the burner tube. I have one over the starter and one on this PS motor. Made tabs from the same material with stainless rivets to mount it. Polished up easy with brown rouge on the wheel. I then line it with DEI tunnel shield so it should work pretty well and keep that header heat off the drive. I hate to wrap stuff in heat shield if I can get air movement. I feel the shield wraps work against us in some situations, like heat soak and time at temperature environments. A barrier between the heat source and component to protect deflects the radiant heat and allows the other side to move heat away vice trapping it. My theory anyway.

erlihemi

09-10-2017, 07:29 PM

RoadRacer

09-10-2017, 07:40 PM

Love it!! Cool look. Like you said, just need to fix the tires.

myjones

09-11-2017, 06:00 AM

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Took some shots before the fenders come off .... again. Needs wider rear tires and smaller fronts for the full fenders. The Plymouth fenders aren't as wide as the FFR's. The unisteer kit is working great. hopefully will get tested hard next week end. I can get the side panels on and off without removing the fenders, but probably will make a smaller set of "skirts" and lose the side panels in the garage somewhere. I have to run Hood and full side panels at the cone chasing events so the car will have 3 different personalities.
Keeping the South East in my thoughts, Brian

Brian
What width and backset are on the back now ?
How much do you need to move out to hit the sweet spot?
Looks like my wider 8.8 might be just right for that size rear wheel based on the way the wheel sets too deep in your fender.

I love the look of the PHAT Plymouth front end.
Dale

erlihemi

09-11-2017, 07:47 AM

Dale,
The rear currently in the car is an old Fox body narrow rear with 5 lug conversion axles and the FFR 11.65 discs. The wheels are those PRC replica's and I'm measuring backspace around 6.25". The wider 8.8 appears to be the way to go when you look at available 11" wide wheels and non custom back space. The PRC are 10". I put .25" spacers on just to get a little more inner body clearance. Without spacers and longer studs I need an 11" wide wheel with less than 6" back space. I haven't decided if I'm going with a Moser rear yet so this will wait for now. Fronts are 6" back space on 9" wide rims. With my extreme caster they bump the upper control arm on hard to lock turn. Note the manual says fronts should be 5.5" back space and rear 6" so FFR supplied wheels are a little more back space. The manual also recommends the narrow rear. Based on a quick search of popular wheels I would go with the wider rear to avoid spacers. I don't think I could get a 345/18 A7 on the back under the fenders, but possibly with the correct wheel. I was scuffing the corners of the rear fenders with those pesky cones due to driver break in.
Going from a 10" wheel to 11" has a penalty in price and availability for both tire and wheel. I also have the rear suspension set so my pinion didn't need a "notch" in the 3 link cross bar. My tailshaft is about 1/2" higher than standard mount and my lower links are in the lower holes and almost level. probably should measure my Koni length and write that down.
Front wheels for my fenders will need to be 5.5" back space, 8" wide, and 225/45 ish x 17. of course I want the 18X10 with Hoosier A7 on the front...
I am getting closer on the look for the front. Left fender must have come out of a mold from a bent steel fender. I will revisit the grille when weather gets worse. I should have put more rise on the hood cowl, but it worked and gives the look of more rake. Hopefully I left room for a higher rise intake. I have a lot of tuning work left, but the next step is to get the NYDOT process done. I have been avoiding the door windows and you may have noticed the angle on the door handles. Much unhappiness exists with the doors.
I think we should talk GDG into doing a 33 chevy...

erlihemi

01-06-2018, 08:43 PM

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Played with running boards a little today. My goal is to narrow the running boards for several reasons.
1) exiting car with Kirkey seats
2) Less leverage on frame supports
3) Plymouth fenders are slightly narrower than FFR
4) I like the curve I cut in the rear fenders.

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I originally was thinking build from scratch running boards, but, I may just slice the FFR boards. I'll play and ponder as time permits.