Won't start, uggg

[FFRSpec72]

I have not been able to spend much time to figure this out, but installed refresh engine, all hooked up, have fuel pressure, spark, oil pressure (primed engine), ran key on engine off test ad nothing shows up, firing order is set to HO. Turns over and makes that attempt to fire but does not start. The inertia switch is fine (as I have fuel pressure), all the wires are hooked up. Thoughts?

[avgjoe]

180* out? I had that problem last spring. Everything worked except it wouldn't start. I was sure the timing was right but ... well.

[Bob Cowan]

The two most common problems are - as avgjoe said - a distributer that's 180* out, and valves that are adjusted too tight, not allowing for compression.

I know you said you're using the HO firing order. Are you sure it's the right one? Check your cam card.

Remove the #1 spark plug, and turn the engine over by hand, with your thumb over the plug hole. You can feel when the piston comes up on the compression stroke. Remove the distributor cap, and see where the rotor is pointing. It should be pointing directly at the #1 spark plug.

If that's OK, check the valve adjustment. You do a compression check on a few cylinders. But a new engine will not have seated the rings yet, and you might get low numbers. That's OK, as long as the numbers are fairly consistent. Usually if the valves are too tight you get backfiring through exhaust and intake.

[FFRSpec72]

180* out? I had that problem last spring. Everything worked except it wouldn't start. I was sure the timing was right but ... well.

I verified the timing, but as Bob points out the valves may be too tight as i'm getting back fire out of intake and exhaust

[Bob Cowan]

I verified the timing, but as Bob points out the valves may be too tight as i'm getting back fire out of intake and exhaust

There's the problem, then. This happens a lot more often than you might think. I think I did it once. Or twice.

The issue seems to be finding zero lash. Especially with a new engine that hasn't filled the lifters with oil yet. The standard instructions say to tighten the nut until you can't spin the push rod with your fingers. With modern materials and lubes, that's often way past zero lash.

Instead, tighten the adjuster nut with your fingers until it's tight. Unless you're superman, that's zero lash. Adjust from there.

[FFRSpec72]

There's the problem, then. This happens a lot more often than you might think. I think I did it once. Or twice.

I was able to get a few hours this morning to re adjust the valve and it started on first crank, I set the timing and will break it in the next couple of weeks. Thanks everyone.

[Bob Cowan]

Yeah!

[skullandbones]

That's a good lesson for all with new engines. I had a heck of a time differentiating 0 lash on mine. I probably went thru the rocker arms five or six times. I think you have to have the touch of a watch maker to be sure when the lifters are not loaded with oil yet. I'm glad you found the issue and fixed it. Good luck on the break in. WEK.

[FFRSpec72]

That's a good lesson for all with new engines. I had a heck of a time differentiating 0 lash on mine. I probably went thru the rocker arms five or six times. I think you have to have the touch of a watch maker to be sure when the lifters are not loaded with oil yet. I'm glad you found the issue and fixed it. Good luck on the break in. WEK.

I think this was my problem, we went through them 4-5 times each time I think we went further and thus hit the problem, I got oil pressure in in system and then went through them 1 time and that did it.

[seagull81]

Tony,
Glad it wasn't anything bad. Have a great racing season.

[seagull81]

Duh, double post

[FFRSpec72]

Tony,
Glad it wasn't anything bad. Have a great racing season.

Thanks, I'm hoping for a trouble free season !