View Full Version : Bompus 818S Build
bompus
03-05-2014, 04:59 PM
It's my birthday today, so I guess now is the perfect time to start my build thread. This is my first kit ever and I have very limited fabrication experience, so this will be quite the task.
FFR says my 818S will have a June 21, 2014 production date. I'm planning on making a soft top, so hopefully the soft top and wiper kit are available at that time.
Donor pallet is shipping to me today ( I'm in Arizona ) from Wayne @ VeryCoolParts. Included in that crate are some goodies such as the 2005 WRX 2.0L donor parts, K-Tuned billet shifter kit, Electromotive TECs ECU + VCP harness, AWIC kit w/ BOV, STi OEM oil pan + dip stick, Killer B pickup + baffle windage tray, new front aluminum control arms. I also have the Quaife QDH3Y LSD on order from The Race Line.
I'm going to try and use parts from as many vendors as possible to help support the community.
Just starting, I already know this project is going to cost upwards of 30k, but I know it will give me much more satisfaction than going out and buying a 30k production car. For others that are scared of the cost, I'm assuming you could build it for under 20k if you obtained and stripped the donor yourself, used all OEM components, and didn't need to replace or dress anything up.
This week will involve preparing the garage for delivery of the donor pallet + goodies. It gives me the opportunity to re-organize my tools as well, so this should be a fun week.
Look forward to sharing my progress with the group. My plan is to provide as much detail as possible during the build to help others out who haven't done this before.
- Aaron
DruOdil
03-05-2014, 06:16 PM
What a great start from VCP
68GT500MAN
03-05-2014, 06:30 PM
Congratulations on making the plunge and starting a new adventure!
Doug
AZPete
03-05-2014, 06:45 PM
Ha. You say you don't have experience but you seemed very knowledgeable last Saturday when you came to see my 818. You've clearly done your homework. Plus, you're smart enough to get goodies from VCP. I look forward to nice stuff on your build thread.
Explain the name "Bompus"
Happy Birthday, Aaron.
Xusia
03-05-2014, 06:47 PM
Welcome! With VCP donor palette and extra parts, your kit will practically be bolt-together!
bompus
03-05-2014, 06:56 PM
Explain the name "Bompus".
This goes a long way back.. basically, we were driving a couple of cars across town and communicating via two-way radio. Somebody forgot to wait a second after keying the mic and they said "Follow Us!", but all I heard was "Bompus!" and that is how the ridiculous nickname was born.
wallace18
03-05-2014, 07:06 PM
Welcome, can't go wrong with Wayne and VCP.
JeromeS13
03-05-2014, 07:18 PM
Happy Birthday and good start!
Wayne Presley
03-06-2014, 07:40 AM
Happy birthday Aaron. The crate should be there Monday at the latest. Thank you for the orders!
bompus
03-14-2014, 09:34 PM
Crate has arrive and some goodies also. Finally got around to uploading some pics.
Below: Garage all cleaned out and ready for arrival of crate. You should have seen it before I "cleaned" it.
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-03/DSCN0223_640.jpg
Below: Truck arrived from VCP with my crate of goodies. Refer to my first post to see what I ordered.
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-03/DSCN0224_640.jpg
Below: My son and niece very excited to have a massive box to lean on. I actually got so excited unpacking the crate that I forgot to take pictures of the three-story masterpiece that Wayne created.
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-03/DSCN0225_640.jpg
Below: Here we have an EJ20 from a 2005 WRX. You'll notice the shiny parts on/near the crank pulley. That is the trigger wheel and pickup mount for the Electromotive TECs ECU. It actually took me a while to figure out what the pickup mount was. At first I thought it was there to protect the crank pulley from being damaged during shipping!
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-03/DSCN0226_640.jpg
Below: MT5 transmission from a 2005 WRX. You can't tell from this side, but the plastic VSS shaft on the opposite side appears to have broken off partially. The sensor was dangling and there aren't enough "threads" left on the shaft to push down and turn it to lock it into place. I'll need to look into how to replace that plastic VSS shaft so I can have a working speedometer. If anybody has pictures of what that shaft SHOULD look like with/without sensor screwed in, please share.
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-03/DSCN0227_640.jpg
Below: Couple of WRX seats. They look comfy.
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-03/DSCN0228_640.jpg
Below: VCP air to water intercooler. Another masterpiece. Question: I assume that is the air temperature sensor screwed into it. Is that correct?
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-03/DSCN0230_640.jpg
Continued...
bompus
03-14-2014, 09:34 PM
Below: K-Tuned shifter from VCP. It's beautiful, but hard to capture in a single camera angle.
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-03/DSCN0231_640.jpg
Below: Wiring harness for 818s from VCP. This is made to hook up to the Electomotive TECs ECU and eliminates much of the OEM harness. It's actually overwhelming still, so I'd hate to see an OEM harness before a diet.
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-03/DSCN0232_640.jpg
I've already begun simplifying the engine by removing the green brackets of death, parts of the PCV system, etc. I have PLENTY of goodies on order and actually had a Gates timing / water pump kit arrive today, so there is already more work to do.
DMC7492
03-14-2014, 11:12 PM
It looks a lot like this![ATTACH=CONFIG]26921[/ATTACH
But this is only the wiring behind the dash!
Erik W. Treves
03-15-2014, 08:09 AM
that IS the air charge temp sensor on the AWIC
AZPete
03-15-2014, 06:30 PM
That shifter is beautiful. I'm getting close to installing the FFR shifter which means I'm probably getting closer to calling Wayne for the K-Tuned shifter. ;)
Do you feel like sleeping with the shifter and intercooler?
bompus
04-02-2014, 09:16 PM
Some updates:
Below: Old clutch ( does this look stock or just crap? ) compared to new Exedy KSB03A
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-03/DSCN0289_640a.jpg
Below: Old flywheel compared to new included in Exedy KSB03A kit
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-03/DSCN0288_640.jpg
Mechie3
04-03-2014, 08:40 AM
Looks like a stock clutch to me.
bompus
04-03-2014, 11:18 AM
Thanks.. I was just curious because the replacement I got is referred to as an OEM replacement, but it looks much more heavy duty than what was on the car. I also couldn't find any brand, part #, or country of origin on the old clutch so I was even more curious.
Time for some more photos.
Below: Some bolts / misc hardware being run through an Evapo-Rust bath:
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-03/DSCN0287_640.jpg http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-03/DSCN0286_640.jpg http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-03/DSCN0285_640.jpg
Below: Intake and exhaust manifolds removed in preparation to be sent out for PnP. The intake and TGVs will get a CermaKrome coating and exhaust will get Swain Tech White Lightning:
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-03/DSCN0277_640.jpg http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-03/DSCN0276_640.jpg http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-03/DSCN0275_640.jpg http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-03/DSCN0269_640.jpg
bompus
04-27-2014, 02:19 PM
Intake manifold and TGVs were sent to Busted Finger Motorsports for PnP and TGV delete. They then got sent to Affordable Powder Coating / Affordable Extreme Coating in Phoenix for a CermaKrome coating. Results are below:
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-04/DSCN0340_640.jpg http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-04/DSCN0341_640.jpg
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-04/DSCN0342_640.jpg http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-04/DSCN0343_640.jpg
AZPete
04-27-2014, 03:50 PM
Your intake and TGVs are amazing! I wish I'd done that. And I like the way you've kept the fasteners separate during their rust removal - saves lots of trial-and-error later on. Very good work!
bompus
06-16-2014, 03:02 PM
It's been a while since I posted an update. I've been working on misc engine cleanup mostly, but also had the Quaife LSD put inside the transmission. I'll make a more thorough post later, but currently I have to deal with a turbo rebuild. I sent my VF48 in to 6star to have them check it out and possibly rebuild and just heard back the bad news that "the compressor housing is damaged beyond reconditioning. The abradable ring has been completely destroyed by the turbo failure so it can not be reused" which means I get to pay extra to replace it with the VF37 housing they have in stock and also have the internals rebuilt. I'm glad I decided to send it in to have them check it out.
While that is being done, I'll continue the engine work which is mostly replacing rubber with silicone, swain tech coating of exhaust pieces, new fuel rails/lines, and smaller things like that. I should receive the chassis from FFR via Stewart Transportation sometime in the next 3 weeks so I'm trying to get the garage cleaned up to make room for delivery.
bompus
07-17-2014, 06:07 PM
Small update here. It turns out that 6starspeed told me my turbo was destroyed on accident. Apparently, all it needed was a new vacuum nipple that was bent, but they confused me with another customer somehow. They must be overloaded over there or something because I got called by three different first names in three separate emails :(
All that being said, got the turbo back from being rebuilt.. I swear the one I got back feels 5 lbs heavier than the one I sent in.
And now some news which makes me very happy. Stewart Transport will be here in about 20 minutes to unload my kit and I can begin the real adventure!
matteo92065
07-17-2014, 07:40 PM
Small update here. It turns out that 6starspeed told me my turbo was destroyed on accident. Apparently, all it needed was a new vacuum nipple that was bent, but they confused me with another customer somehow. They must be overloaded over there or something because I got called by three different first names in three separate emails :(
All that being said, got the turbo back from being rebuilt.. I swear the one I got back feels 5 lbs heavier than the one I sent in.
And now some news which makes me very happy. Stewart Transport will be here in about 20 minutes to unload my kit and I can begin the real adventure!
I'm in San Diego, mine is going to be here in a few more days. Did you see my car in the trailer?
bompus
07-18-2014, 11:10 AM
Sorry matteo, mine was the only 818 on his truck. Call them and ask for an update ;)
AZPete
07-18-2014, 11:27 AM
I don't believe you got your 818 because there are no pictures. :eek:
bompus
07-26-2014, 09:58 PM
I'll get some pictures up soon. Today was a very tiring day. I decided to sand and coat every single aluminum panel by hand. We coated them with Al's HNR which is a heat and noise reducer and ends up being a tan color. I have planned to follow up that coating with a layer or Herculiner. The good news is that my wife and I got all ~60 panels done today except for the final Herculiner coating. I'm terrified that they might come out looking awful, but a little late to worry about that now.
Also picked up some local aluminum sheet and created an engine-side firewall with the triangle cuts for easier removal. Some of my cuts were rough, but they'll be functional at least.
I promise I'll get some pics up when I have the energy to go through them all.
bompus
07-27-2014, 11:42 PM
Off with the stock oil pan, pickup, baffle tray. On with the Killer B parts. The pickup uses 3 bolts instead of two and seems much more robust. The tray is more shallow and looks functional.
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-07/DSCN0505_640a.jpg http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-07/DSCN0509_640a.jpg
Stewart Transport delivered my 818S #218. Here you can see a glimpse of my attempt at making the awful angled curb work with the 4.5" height of the 818. We'll see how it works. You'll also see the stack of boxes it comes with. There were not as many boxes as I was expecting, but these boys are packed full of goodies.
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-07/DSCN0658_640.jpg http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-07/DSCN0659_640.jpg
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-07/DSCN0662_640.jpg http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-07/DSCN0665_640.jpg
bompus
07-27-2014, 11:49 PM
And she's all mine! My wife and son look more excited than I do here.
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-07/DSCN0667_640.jpg http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-07/DSCN0668_640.jpg
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-07/DSCN0672_640.jpg http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-07/DSCN0674_640.jpg
My elaborate body panel retaining system. Drywall hooks for hanging pictures and some rope worked out decent. I have some of the larger panels in the backyard on pallets and covered because I had nowhere else to put them. You also get a sneak peak at the engine. Nothing special.. a few mods such as the Grimmspeed uppipe & crosspipe with the manifold all coated with Swaintech white lightning, VF48 turbo rebuilt by 6starspeed, IAG fuel rails. You can also see some of my blue silicone hoses that I am going to attempt to use for coolant and vacuum wherever I can.
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-07/DSCN0676_640.jpg http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-07/DSCN0678_640.jpg
And already have some of the steel brackets coated with primer. I may follow this up with a black enamel coat as well. The primer seems a bit "dusty" for my liking.
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-07/DSCN0680_640.jpg
bompus
07-27-2014, 11:55 PM
And we have some of the rear suspension installed. Several parts that I need to complete the first steps are on backorder, so I'm stuck with doing what I can for now. I'm including pics from different angles so you can tell me if I did something wrong.
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-07/DSCN0682_640.jpg http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-07/DSCN0683_640.jpg
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-07/DSCN0684_640.jpg http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-07/DSCN0685_640.jpg
And because we were bored, we started coating aluminum panels. They are getting a coating of Al's HNR (Heat & Noise Reducer - sand/tan color) followed up by a coating of black Herculiner truck bed coating. We actually started coating some of the firewall with Herculiner tonight and so far it appears that Al's HNR is working as a decent primer for it.
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-07/DSCN0692_640.jpg http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-07/DSCN0753_640.jpg
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-07/DSCN0754_640.jpg
Whew.. caught up on pictures. Now the work continues.
AZPete
07-28-2014, 10:22 AM
A lot of progress in a few days! You'll be done by Fall. I admire your engine work and how you both are working together on the 818. There's more fun to come as more parts arrive and more gets bolted together..
And, thanks for the tire help!
bompus
08-01-2014, 08:18 PM
Let's start off with the good news. Aluminum panels are all coated with Herculiner ( on top of the Al's HNR coating ). The texture is nice and I'm stuck with it, so I'm sure it will look good when it is all on.
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-08/DSCN0760_640.jpg http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-08/DSCN0761_640.jpg
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-08/DSCN0762_640.jpg
And the not so good news. I was going to install the front panel aluminum so decided to take the windshield off and store it somewhere safe. I took all of the layers of duct tape off that were holding it on. Everything looked great until I took the very last piece off. There were several scratches across the lower edge of the window.. no biggie until I took the last piece of tape off and underneath the tape was a decent sized chip in the glass. Once I got the window off, I looked at it closer and it appears to have hit something at least three times (hard) as it had three separate impact gashes all on the bottom passenger-side edge of the glass. I figured I would have a local glass company just fill in the chips to keep it from spreading, but when I checked on it later, it had already split out into several fractures that extend up the windshield and I don't think it is repairable at this point. There was glass dust/pieces stuck to the tape, so it happened sometime before it left FFR or during transport. We'll see how good FFR customer service is I suppose. Enough of my frustration rant and on with the photos of the damage.
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-08/DSCN0763_640.jpg http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-08/DSCN0766_640.jpg
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-08/DSCN0767_640.jpg http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-08/DSCN0769_640.jpg
I guess the good part is that the windshield is no longer in the way as I put the front aluminum on...
Hindsight
08-01-2014, 08:26 PM
Ouch, sorry to hear it. I bet FF will make it right, but it's good you shared your experience.... I never woukd have thought to check mine but I will definitely do so after reading your post. Keep us posted on the outcome.
bompus
10-19-2014, 08:17 PM
Wow.. It's been over two months. I've been super busy with work, but have managed to get some work done on the 818 and have been lurking the forums. Now for some updates:
1. FFR had me send them some pictures of the damage to the windshield and promptly had a replacement shipped out to me. To be honest I haven't taken the replacement out of the box yet because I don't want to risk the possibility of damaging it before I am ready to install it. Super impressed with FFR customer service though.
2. Front and cabin aluminum are all installed. I also created a not-so-great version of an engine-side firewall using some triangular pieces. I got the idea of the rear firewall from AZPete and had a local shop cut me a couple of rectangular pieces and then used a HF Jigsaw (eww! - they don't cut straight) to cut the triangular pieces. I managed to get it done, but it didn't come out pretty. The Herculiner covers up most of those flaws though. I didn't like the appearance of gaps in the firewall where I could see insulation through it, so I painted the entire thing, including rivnuts and washers with black.
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-10/DSCN0774_640.jpg http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-10/DSCN0801_640.jpg
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-10/DSCN0802_640.jpg http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-10/DSCN0805_640.jpg
3. I almost forgot to put on the alternator belt and adding a burb port to the coolant housing before dropping in the engine. Hopefully I didn't forget anything else. Somehow I screwed up the 1/8 NPT hole ( tapped it too big? ) for the 1/8 NPT nipple I had, so in a panic I grabbed some JB Weld and smothered it in/on/around and I am hoping for no leaks. In the last photo, it appears we are all looking for something crucial that we need to drop the engine in. I forget what it was, so hopefully we found it.
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-10/DSCN0807_640.jpg http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-10/DSCN0813_640.jpg
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-10/DSCN0820_640.jpg
bompus
10-19-2014, 08:28 PM
Continuing the last post.
4. Engine and transmission are in!
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-10/DSCN0821_640.jpg
5. I'm going with the Walbro GSS342-400-791 fuel pump. Instead of soldering the wires, I opted to crimp on some 3M heat-shrink butt connectors which have some type of adhesive inside as well. I also took a photo of the Walbro pump (left) beside the OEM pump for those who wanted to know if it would fit. It's almost identical in size and any difference can be made up by shortening the length of the connecting hose.
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-10/DSCN0835_640.jpg http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-10/DSCN0836_640.jpg
6. Started installing rear brake lines a few days ago. This is my first time doing brake lines so I was super lucky that I had enough line to allow me to put the rear tee past the engine-side firewall. You can see it was definitely a close fit.
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-10/DSCN0842_640.jpg
7. I'm going to have to remove the front coil-overs and lower shock mount and do some grinding to the mount and possibly the bolt heads. The welds on the both mounts are preventing the bolt from seating all of the way and the end result is the bolt grinding it's way into the lower shock.
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-10/DSCN0846_640.jpg
8. Installed the fuel pressure regulator. I couldn't find a better spot for it. It's an Aeromotive 13129. I also installed some Russell hard-line to -06 AN fittings onto the fuel tank pickup. The larger adapter took some grinding to the top-most portion to allow it to fit onto the hard line before it enlarged.
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-10/DSCN0847_640.jpg http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-10/DSCN0851_640.jpg
bompus
10-19-2014, 08:34 PM
And there's more..
9. Fuel tank installed. You can see the RobbMc Small 10 Micron Filter (1072) sitting on top of the tank waiting for a mounting location.
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-10/DSCN0850_640.jpg
10. And a possible problem. The wastegate arm on the turbo (VF48) BARELY clears the support brace. We're talking less than the thickness of a quarter. When the engine torques, it would likely hit the bar. My initial idea was to add some washers or spacers to push the support brace back a bit farther to where I don't think it would hit. I'm not sure what ends up mounting to the brace, so I am looking for suggestions on my idea or other ideas.
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-10/DSCN0848_640.jpg http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-10/DSCN0849_640.jpg
That's it for today. There was plenty more, but I won't bore you with pictures you've already seen everywhere else.
JeromeS13
10-20-2014, 03:05 PM
And there's more..
9. Fuel tank installed. You can see the RobbMc Small 10 Micron Filter (1072) sitting on top of the tank waiting for a mounting location.
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-10/DSCN0850_640.jpg
10. And a possible problem. The wastegate arm on the turbo (VF48) BARELY clears the support brace. We're talking less than the thickness of a quarter. When the engine torques, it would likely hit the bar. My initial idea was to add some washers or spacers to push the support brace back a bit farther to where I don't think it would hit. I'm not sure what ends up mounting to the brace, so I am looking for suggestions on my idea or other ideas.
http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-10/DSCN0848_640.jpg http://818cdn.bompus.com/2014-10/DSCN0849_640.jpg
That's it for today. There was plenty more, but I won't bore you with pictures you've already seen everywhere else.
Make sure you leave a little extra room between that arm and the brace. The wastegate actuator arm needs to move towards the rear in order to open up the wastegate flaps in the turbo in order to relieve exhaust pressure.
bompus
10-20-2014, 04:46 PM
Yeah I definitely need to make some more room there. Would there be any problem with adding some spacers to the brace to move it back farther or does something critical (body panels, etc) need to mount to it in that exact default location? I figured if I moved the brace back 0.5" or more that it would make me feel more comfortable.
Bob_n_Cincy
10-20-2014, 05:40 PM
Bompus,
there are others on here that had the same problem with the waste gate actuator. They cut a big notch in the bracket and then reinforced it.
Check this thread
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13736-Shock-Tower-Brace-doesn-t-clear-a-VF48&p=145592&highlight=vf48#post145592
Bob
bompus
10-21-2014, 05:20 PM
I have a question in to FFR tech to ask what the recommended approach would be. I would love to just add some 0.50" - 1.00" spacers to the support brace bolts to move it rearward and provide the necessary clearance, but I'm not sure what that would do from a structural integrity or body panel alignment standpoint. We'll see what FFR says unless anybody else wants to chime in.
Bob_n_Cincy
10-21-2014, 05:57 PM
The shock tower brace keep the 2 shock towers spread out the correct distance. It forms a structural triangle on top of the motor. It also connect to the ends of the roll bar supports. I don't think spacers would be a good idea.
The trunk hinge also bolts to that shock tower brace.
Bob
bompus
11-13-2014, 02:55 AM
Well.. it's about that time to order wheels + tires. I'm going with XXR 530 17x7 +35 up front and 18x8.75 +33(+35?) rear in Chromium Black. Part numbers 53077102N and 53088102N for those that find the information useful. I believe this is the same wheel that others have used, but correct me if I am horribly wrong. All 4 from tirecrazy for 470 shipped.
For tires, I was originally going to go with Federal 595 RS-R, but due to lack of availability and the fact that I won't be taking the car to the track, I decided to go with a harder tire so they will last longer. I had a feeling the 595 RS-R would have melted to the AZ pavement on a hot summer day. So I went out searching for a new affordable tire choice that I can find in stock. I've come up with the Nexen N'Fera SU1 which comes in 215/40/17 and 255/35/18. All 4 from simpletire for 459 shipped to an installer.
Thoughts?
Frank818
11-13-2014, 08:20 AM
$459 for all 4 of these tire sizes is cheap!
wleehendrick
11-13-2014, 12:31 PM
Thoughts?
I approve of the wheels! Especially since I recently got the same (but added my own touch):
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=35685&d=1415899320
I'm in the same situation, originally planning on the Federals, but need to find something else due to availability, and I don't want to spend a grand on nice Yoko's. I have no experience with Nexen, but I'm leaning to Maxxis Victra MA-Z1 (http://www.maxxis.com/catalog/tire-66-102-victra-ma-z1). They're available in the same sizes, have gotten good reviews, and are even a little cheaper than the Nexen. With a 280 treadwear rating, I'm hoping they'll be a good balance for a 818 street tire.
35685
P.S. I lived in Scottsdale from 2000-2002; a co-worker would commute on his bike year-round, and on one 120F+ day, one of his bike tires did melt into the pavement while he was stopped at a red light!
bompus
11-13-2014, 09:24 PM
Thanks for the info. For tires, Maxxis Victra MA-Z1 are now at the top of my list. Not bad for 400 from onlinetires. The tread looks sexier too :)
And I wasn't kidding about tires melting to the pavement in Arizona. The heat here is horrible on soft tires.
bompus
11-18-2014, 01:45 PM
Onlinetires apparently does not have anything in stock, so I ditched them. I ended up ordering the NFera SU1 tires from a local dealer for $585 out the door. I may have been able to save a little by going with simpletire, but didn't like their installer. I'll post pics once they are mounted on the XXR 530 wheels.
wleehendrick
11-18-2014, 03:05 PM
:mad: tell me about it. That's two orders of mine Onlinetires has been unable to fulfill. If they can't/won't update inventory they don't get a third try. I went back to good old TireRack and ordered a set of Kumho Ecsta LE Sports for $644 total; coming from NV, I should get them tomorrow. They're an 280 treadwear, assymetric tread. Hope I'll be happy with them, and that you are with your tire choice!
bompus
05-29-2016, 11:24 PM
Well, this is embarrassing.. Just noticed the last post on my build thread was about 1.5 years ago.. wow! A lot has happened since then.. moved out of my old house, into a temporary one ( dad's house ) which only had a carport, so nothing got done there. Finally in the new house with a large garage and a decent amount of space to work. Now that I've given you a good excuse why I haven't posted in a while...
Past year and half
-- a lot of aluminum on
-- wiring harness is in a position where I think it needs to be ( every time I think that, I notice something I need to rearrange though )
-- wheels are on the car
-- coolant pipes run. I went for the hard lines, since the corrugated stuff wanted to leak and I didn't feel like dealing with that long term.
-- steering column shortened
-- Corbeau FX1 Pro seats bought and test mounted with conbination sparco side mounts + aluminum bar, they seem to fit ok. I was going to try to fit the stock seats in, but couldn't figure out how to mount them. The stock seats didn't seem to match the manual instructions, and they seemed too wide, touching metal on both sides, and that was with a lot of effort to shove them into position. Even if I could have figured out a way to mount them, I wouldn't have been able to get the center console metal on afterward. With these seats, and the shortened column, I still barely fit in. I'm 5'9" 160lb. Contemplating a Boyd tank, but don't know if I want to deal with changing it out at this point. I think I can live with the gen 1 FFR tank + firewall for now, unless the coupe kit doesn't work with that firewall for whatever reason.
-- probably a ton more that I forgot. I've been watching the forums daily though, so hopefully all the knowledge and tips can help me out when it comes to the body.
Last month
-- went to the Factory Five Huntington Beach Cruise-In, as a spectator. Saw a couple of coupes, the only two 818's at the show. I'm very close to buying the coupe retrofit kit. Then I'll want A/C ( please provide an A/C kit Factory Five! ).. it never ends!
Past week
-- loomed up my wires to look less messy
-- ensured seats mounted and fit reasonably well
-- wired up some PLX sensors + digital gauge to make sure the daisy chain sensor system worked - it does.
Today
-- Filled up the coolant
-- fired up the engine, first time with coolant actually in it. I fired it up a few times before, but only let it run for < 30 seconds.
-- burped some air out of the system! Only did one heat cycle, so I'm sure there is air left in there. I did Wayne's mod + ran a line from passenger side of radiator to the overflow as well, so it should take care of itself for the most part. It's drank about 3.5 gallons of Peak Global Lifetime so far, not sure how much more it can hold. I looked around and it seemed like most folks were fitting between 3.5 - 4.0 gallons. I have a Koyo aluminum radiator, so it might have more capacity over stock.. pretty sure it's thicker.
I'll try to take some progress photos on all of the above over the next week or so. Hopefully my photos can help others out and you folks can take a second look at what I am doing to inform me of any stupidity on my part.
If you don't hear back from me in a week or so, somebody revive the thread and wake me up again :)
bompus
05-30-2016, 08:51 PM
Discouraged today. Was going to take it for it's first spin around the block, go-kart style. However, the engine was idling very lean ( 17-19 AFR ).. adjusting the fuel trim to bring that back down to the 13-14 level, but then I revved it up a bit to 3k rpm, let off the accelerator, and it stays there ( around 3k ) +/- 200 rpm. I also noticed as the engine warms, up the idle climbs up to about the 2k level. If it give it a bit of gas to raise to 2.5k, it stays there as well. Tried pushing the throttle assembly on the TB back to make sure it wasn't sticking, and didn't seem to be, but I can't for the life of me figure out the lean + high idle problem.
I'm running the Electromotive TECs ECU, so I have some logging available, but it can only tell me so much. It seems to be slightly triggering the knock sensor / retard at idle even after the AFR is raised up to ~ 14, with 91 octane. Fuel pressure is adjusted to 42 psi @ idle. Coolant temp ~ 200. To me, the engine seems to be really hot for just idling with no real load.
Ideas?
Wayne Presley
05-30-2016, 09:33 PM
The IAC is probably sticking, common Subaru issue. I cleaned 2 recently. I soaked mine in gas until it spins freely. I sprayed it with some light oil and reassembled. the barrel on the end has a tab that fits in a slot on the black motor housing. The valve when assembled rocks back and forth about 90°.
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=781242
Coolant temp of 200 while idling is fairly normal.
bompus
06-01-2016, 09:46 PM
Thoroughly cleaned the IACV. It wasn't spinning very freely before, but now it is. I verified that the motor does move it by holding it grounded to the engine upside down while watching it. When I turn the key on, it moves back and forth quickly to reset itself to some position. I guess I'll try to smoke the engine area next to see if I can find a vacuum leak past the throttle body. Right now, it idles about 300-500 rpm higher than commanded, and if I rev it up to 2000 rpm, it just stays hovering at 2000 then until I kill the engine and start it up again, then back to 1200 - 1400 idle instead of the expected 900 - 1000. It seems to be worse when the engine is warm. Cold it seems to rev up to 2k then back down fine, but still idling high.
Tamra
06-04-2016, 09:07 AM
Do you have cruise control? I read about an issue with the earlier WRX's and the cruise control cable tightening as the engine bay heats up. Make sure both your throttle cable and cruise control cable have a little slack in them at idle.
bompus
06-04-2016, 09:25 AM
No cruise control, throttle cable has plenty of slack, even when engine is hot. Built a smoke can last night, so I'll see if there are any vacuum leaks in the intake system. If not, guess I'll be replacing the IACV with a different branch ( Standard Motor Products AC524 ) and hope they improved on the internals a bit. Hopefully I find something silly with the smoke test though and don't need it.
bompus
06-04-2016, 04:24 PM
Smoked it today, no leaks at all in the intake system. I purposely created one just to make sure it was working, and smoke came out when I loosened up something, so the $5 paint can smoker method does work.
After that, decided to start it up with the intercooler unhooked from the throttle body, so I could spray-clean the TB and also feel how much air the IAC ( Idle Air Control Valve ) was pulling. After the engine warmed up a bit, it had the same exact symptoms, idles about 300-400 rpm high, and revving up to 2k, it just stays hovering there. At the 2k level, I could hear the IAC sucking a TON of air in. Verified throttle body was closed all the way. I sprayed some TB cleaner at it, and it sat in the bottom of the TB, so don't think the issue is with that not closing enough.
While the engine is cold, I can command the Electromotive TECs ECU to put the IAC at 0%, 40%, etc, and the idle responds to the change, so it seems that the IAC motor is at least partially working. However, when it heats up, this doesn't seem to make any difference, so either the metal expanding causes it to hang up inside or the IAC motor being weak makes it fail.
As an experiment, when it was idling at the 2k level, I put my finger over the IAC inlet, inside of the throttle body. I covered it up 1/2 - 3/4 of the way with a finger, and like magic, the idle went back down to 1.2k, and stayed there until I revved up again. I'm fairly confident the IAC motor is either weak, or the flapper is messed up somehow. I replicated this experiment a few times, and same result each time. Once it starts pulling air in, it seems like the IAC motor isn't powerful enough to block it off again, especially after it has warmed up.
I ordered a new ~$215 Standard Motor Products AC524 Idle Air Control Valve from Amazon. It has a warranty, comes with new gasket and bolts, and is made by a different company than OEM, so hopefully they worked out some of the issues over the stock brand. I'm 50/50 on whether this will fix the problem, so crossing my fingers it isn't something more serious or stupid on my part.
Guess I'll let you know how it goes when I get the new one shipped and installed.
AZPete
06-05-2016, 12:39 PM
Aaron, at least you are eliminating suspects like vacuum leaks, cruise/throttle, dirty IAC, etc. and I know you'll find the solution. Please let us know what you find so we'll all learn.
bompus
06-12-2016, 12:05 PM
New iacv lowered by about 200rpm, but still idles at 1600-1800rpm warm. I can hear and feel the iacv port sucking air, so maybe it's wired up backwards or something. I reset the electromotive ecu to default settings and followed their initial setup / tuning guide and it responds very well off idle now, which I can live with.
Anyway, took it for the first Drive today. Needs some tuning, but not horrible for the first time.
https://youtu.be/qzKyvVZQthw
Pretty sure my son was more excited than I was.
Wayne Presley
06-12-2016, 01:47 PM
Your wife had a little of the " i can't believe it actually runs" in her voice talking to your son.
Congrats on the first drive!
AZPete
06-12-2016, 03:11 PM
Congrats Aaron! Sounds good and it's rewarding to have solved the problem.
bompus
06-12-2016, 04:14 PM
I didn't really solve the problem, still idles way too fast, but after having thoughts of selling the car to ease my frustration, decided to take it for a spin for motivation. Slightly more motivated to finish it now, but still wish I could get the idle down.
I have an oil leak also, possibly the front main seal. I have a decent amount of oil dripping from the bottom passenger side of the plastic timing belt cover, so have to pull the cover off and see where it's coming from. It wouldn't bother me so much, but it's dripping directly on the exhaust manifold and I don't appreciate the smoke and possibility of fire from it.
Hindsight
06-12-2016, 05:48 PM
Congrats on the first start and drive!
Tamra
06-13-2016, 01:09 PM
Congrats!
bompus
07-01-2016, 10:57 AM
Pulled the engine + trans out to address some oil leaking onto the exhaust manifold from the lower passenger side timing cover. What a pain to pull it out! Had to remove the exhaust manifold piece between the up-pipe and cross-pipe on the passenger side so it would clear the engine bay, but finally got it out.
Next step is popping off the timing cover and finding out where that oil is leaking from.
While the engine is out, I'll may also replace some of the hose clamps on coolant lines with OEM-style spring clamps. I may have tossed all of the factory ones, hopefully not. I previously used Gates PowerGrip clamps, but some of them are still leaking, so not sure if I shrunk them enough or not. I'm also using lined silicone hoses for coolant, so might switch those back to rubber also.
STiPWRD
07-01-2016, 11:29 AM
You couldn't access the timing cover with the engine installed? There should be enough clearance there.
bompus
07-01-2016, 11:39 AM
Absolutely not. Even if I took my added engine-side firewall off ( three triangles up top, one full wide rectangle at the bottom ), I wouldn't have been able to get in there enough to do much of anything. Maybe others are more patient than me, but I couldn't see a way to easily access that entire area without pulling the engine out. I might be able to change a timing belt without taking it out, but that would probably also involve removing at least one seat to have somewhere to stand and access it from - not a lot of room :) If somebody else has done something like this without pulling the motor, let me know how.
JeromeS13
07-01-2016, 11:47 AM
Pulled the engine + trans out to address some oil leaking onto the exhaust manifold from the lower passenger side timing cover. What a pain to pull it out! Had to remove the exhaust manifold piece between the up-pipe and cross-pipe on the passenger side so it would clear the engine bay, but finally got it out.
Next step is popping off the timing cover and finding out where that oil is leaking from.
While the engine is out, I'll may also replace some of the hose clamps on coolant lines with OEM-style spring clamps. I may have tossed all of the factory ones, hopefully not. I previously used Gates PowerGrip clamps, but some of them are still leaking, so not sure if I shrunk them enough or not. I'm also using lined silicone hoses for coolant, so might switch those back to rubber also.
My guess is one of the cam seals.
STiPWRD
07-01-2016, 12:04 PM
Check out this thread, Andrew and Tamra were able to replace the oil pump with the engine in place. This means you should also be able to access the cam seals.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?17101-Leaking-Oil
Wayne Presley
07-01-2016, 12:38 PM
I've changed the cams, and valve springs and retainers with the motor installed
bompus
10-31-2018, 01:02 AM
Well. It's been a while.
A long time ago, I replaced cam seals, oil pump sealed up much better than it was previously. No more signs of oil leak, at least not anywhere near the extent it was before.
After I got the motor back in, life got busy. I took a very long break from the 818.
Started working on it again a few weeks ago when outside temps dipped below 90. Had to reroute some wiring, fuel hose, breather hose, aos, fuel regulator, fuel filter, and more. This is my first kit, so learning a lot about placement and routing of various components.
This week, I think I have the wiring harness positions much better , which allowed me to clean up my fuel, vacuum, breather hoses as well. I wasn't happy with seeing hoses and wires covering the view of the shiny intake manifold. Much better now!
Also think I have a good location for the VCP shifter and stock ebrake. I ended up mounting the ebrake to the k-tuned shifter base, behind the shifter assembly. Took some chopping and drilling of the ebrake mount, but I'm happy with it so far. Cleverly? used the FFR supplied shift boot for the stock ebrake boot, with some modification. Not sure how it'll look in the end, but better than nothing.
I was planning on running AC, but in the interest of finishing the build, I'm saving the AC for later/never.
Also got a alum project box to mount the TECs ECU and several PLX sensor boxes. Planning to mount it on the firewall between the seats for easy access, but we'll see.
I'll try to upload some pics of some of the above soon.
AZPete
11-04-2018, 10:59 AM
Aaron, it's good to see you back here. Whenever I get busy with other stuff and ignore the 818 project for a while, it's tough to get started again . . . where was I? what's next? what's done? . . . but once I get out in the garage it starts to make sense and becomes fun again. I'm glad you jumped back in the pool and look forward to you getting back on the road. We've got 8 months of beautiful weather ahead, so now's the time.
Pete
bompus
10-15-2019, 05:58 PM
Well then.. life is interesting.
If anyone is looking for an 818, I might be moving out of Arizona and likely won't be able to take my build. It's almost completed. I can even throw in some tools if you need them �� It sucks for me, but if anyone is looking to build or resell, you'll probably save a lot of $ and time with this one.
Photos : https://photos.app.goo.gl/CHHR6pxfRLS7PdULA
Windshield and soft top (optional) are currently in unopened boxes.
AZPete
10-15-2019, 11:30 PM
Oh no, Aaron, I'm sad to see you won't finish your 818 but someone will get a very well-made car to finish!
Frank818
10-17-2019, 06:26 PM
Man that sucks, life is "not" interesting. :( Hopefully you'll have great projects in AZ, there are so many awesome 818 guys around there you can meet. Like the one in the above post, for instance... loll
If you ever decide to sell your PLX wideband alone, let me know.