stacked33 build

[stacked33]

My stack of boxes and body parts looked like every one's did. That is why I am going to try and focus on the things I am doing to make this like no other 33 Hot Rod in the world. Isn't that what it's all about. Shortly after placing the order for my 33 kit I started building a truly one of a kind intake manifold to cap off the 427 Ford Racing small block I had ordered. Why is it unique? Not only does it have 8 stacks like a normal setup but in an effort to make it more friendly on the street I added 2 primary stacks in the center of the engine to be used for idle and cruise. These 2 small stacks feed a sub manifold system that go underneath the normal system. Will it work? So far it has only been on the dyno with apparently good results but the real proof will be in the driving. Hoping to get it done this spring.

[Vman7]

Welcome Stacked :) Wow! somebody has some serious machining skills.

[stacked33]

Thank you. I have seen your posts and it looks you have some ideads yourself.

[Arrowhead]

WOW, pretty awesome machine work. Obviously it works, but i'm having a hard time wrapping my head around the linkage setup. is that second to last shot showing the a linkage block a progress picture and more machine work was done? Is it a progressive type setup where the center two open and then the other eight? Keep the pictures coming!

[CHOTIS BILL]

Several things come to mind.1) WOW that is cool. 2) How do you sync the throttle shafts? And 3) what are the center stacks for? They are smaller than the other 8 and don’t seem to have injectors associated with them but may have butterflies.

Thanks for sharing,

Bill Lomenick

[68GT500MAN]

Fantastic machine work and a novel idea.
Doug

[David Hodgkins]

Dang. That's cool. If those two center stacks improve street-ability can I first in line for a setup? Is that a FMS crate motor? If so, is it using x or z heads?

:)

[stacked33]

You are correct on both accounts. There was further work on the linkage and it is like a primary/secondary carburetor. The primaries open 3 degrees before the secondaries open.

[stacked33]

No need for injectors for the center stacks. All the air control is before the injectors. The injectors don't care where the air comes from.

[stacked33]

I meant 3 degrees.
You are correct on both accounts. There was further work on the linkage and it is like a primary/secondary carburetor. The primaries open 3 degrees before the secondaries open.

[stacked33]

Dang. That's cool. If those two center stacks improve street-ability can I first in line for a setup? Is that a FMS crate motor? If so, is it using x or z heads?

:)Z heads

[Tom Veale]

Very pretty workmanship and concept.

[stacked33]

I had planned to build my own exhaust for this car as I have done before on other projects. But then I came across a company in Fargo ND called Stainless Headers Inc. I contacted them to see if they did exhaust for 33 Hot Rods because they were advertizing they had headers etc. for the Cobra replicas. They did not, so we made a deal for them to use my car as a model to make the patterns they would need to be able to market them. We discussed ideas I had and what I was looking for and a couple of weeks later I had full length header and 3" exhaust for my 33. I did not like the idea of running the factory sized pipes and mufflers with 500+ horsepower as it would be too restrictive. 26603266042660526606266072660826609One of the photos shows my car with cardboard mock ups of the size and location of the exhaust exits to be.

[Greg G]

Just two words.....Sweet Jesus.....nuff' said!

[stacked33]

That should be 30 degrees. I have 10 thumbs.
I meant 3 degrees.

[mcrumay]

Nifty job. Love the exhaust tips.

[esff32]

just two words.....sweet jesus.....nuff' said!

ditto!!!

[MT-ED]

This is going to be an awesome car. Your machine work looks fabulous and that exhaust system is to die for. I can see Stainless Headers Inc. getting a lot of business if the price is right.

[skullandbones]

That's got to be the lowest profile intake I have ever seen. I don't remember seeing anything with the distributor cap above the top of the manifold. Is that black anodizing?

What cradles the butterfly brackets between the upper and lower plates (bearings, delrin, etc.....)?

That's nice engineering!!!

Thanks for the pics,

WEK.

[stacked33]

Thanks! The throttle shafts are rotating on bronze bushings and the manifold is black hard anodized.
That's got to be the lowest profile intake I have ever seen. I don't remember seeing anything with the distributor cap above the top of the manifold. Is that black anodizing?

What cradles the butterfly brackets between the upper and lower plates (bearings, delrin, etc.....)?

That's nice engineering!!!

Thanks for the pics,

WEK.

[stacked33]

I don't know what they will have to get for the system. But I am sure someone could buy just the headers or as much as they wanted to.
This is going to be an awesome car. Your machine work looks fabulous and that exhaust system is to die for. I can see Stainless Headers Inc. getting a lot of business if the price is right.

[stacked33]

Here are some photos (not the best) of the rear suspension. I added a anti roll/ anti sway bar and cut the spring rate in half. It still seems plenty of spring but will find out when driving it. I also added adjustable brackets to the upper control arms so the instant center can be adjusted. I plan on taking it to the strip and my goal is a 10 second pass. I think with the adjustable suspension this will be possible. The differential is from Moser and pattern after a Dana 44. I ordered it with out any brackets so I could put my own where I wanted. The only thing from the stock suspension is the lower bars and chassis mounts. Also shown is my fuel pump and filter system. I am going to try use the FFR supplied gas tank. I hope I don't regret that decision.268012680226803268042680526806

[esff32]

I think you might regret your decision, I know I did. I had issues with mine and was kicking myself for sticking with the supplied tank. I went with the Boyd tank as well and it is a thing of beauty. Now I need to remove body fasteners and jack the body up to get it out. Nothing like going backwards. :rolleyes:

[stacked33]

what issues did you have with the tank?
I think you might regret your decision, I know I did. I had issues with mine and was kicking myself for sticking with the supplied tank. I went with the Boyd tank as well and it is a thing of beauty. Now I need to remove body fasteners and jack the body up to get it out. Nothing like going backwards. :rolleyes:

[myjones]

Here are some photos (not the best) of the rear suspension. I added a anti roll/ anti sway bar and cut the spring rate in half. It still seems plenty of spring but will find out when driving it. I also added adjustable brackets to the upper control arms so the instant center can be adjusted. I plan on taking it to the strip and my goal is a 10 second pass. I think with the adjustable suspension this will be possible. The only thing from the stock suspension is the lower bars and chassis mounts.
I wanted mine to launch hard as well and that was part of why I went a bit softer on the springs and worked on the 4 link geometry quite a bit. I did add a rear sway but for now it's just about body roll control so it's only a link to link. Later if the launch needs more tuning I will go to the frame mounts like yours so I can pre-load a bit if needed. Have you thought about a front sway with a release pin on one side for the strip? I looked at your pics for the instant center adjustments was that just about pinion angle? I couldn't see how you change IC angle on the uppers?
Dale
Hemi33

[Boz1911]

Man this is going to be a cool 33!!

I'm with Evan, if I had it to do over I'd ditch the stock fuel tank. The other change I'd make is to mount the battery in the trunk or at least accessible from the trunk.

I would think running in the 10's should be no problem if the car will launch hard enough.

Keep up the great work !!

[stacked33]

I am going to try it first with only the rear sway and see how it works. I have been working on a couple of ideas for a front system but I don't want it to show from the outside. The rear upper control arms have multiple holes in the brackets I made that are attached to the frame so they are adjustable on the front side only. I should be able to get the IC anywhere from under the seat to out front of the car if I want. It is somewhat limited in adjust ability but better than nothing.
I wanted mine to launch hard as well and that was part of why I went a bit softer on the springs and worked on the 4 link geometry quite a bit. I did add a rear sway but for now it's just about body roll control so it's only a link to link. Later if the launch needs more tuning I will go to the frame mounts like yours so I can pre-load a bit if needed. Have you thought about a front sway with a release pin on one side for the strip? I looked at your pics for the instant center adjustments was that just about pinion angle? I couldn't see how you change IC angle on the uppers?
Dale
Hemi33

[erlihemi]

Awesome car crafting! From the stacks to the suspension this is going to be a runner. If you can get this to hook AND corner it's gonna be a thriller!!

[stacked33]

http://s1363.photobucket.com/user/stacked33/media/VID_20140413_163010_705_zps8a79c246.mp4.html?sort= 2&o=36I go carted my car today. Since I can't video myself driving it I will have to settle for the car sitting and idling. In the video it sounds like a sewing machine but in real life not so much. Needless to say it is going to fly.

[amasciarelli21]

My mom's singer never sounded that good Awesome build I,m curious to see how the rear sway bar alone works out too!

Ang

[geoffav]

Beautiful job. Very inspiring.

[esff32]

what issues did you have with the tank?

Sorry for the extremely delayed response. The filler tube is located mid-way in the tank so I found it difficult to fill. It would eject the fuel out the fill as soon as the tank would get about half full. The sending unit is also located at mid level. I had a hell of a time trying to get the "O" ring to seal thus I constantly have fuel leaking all over my suspension and on to the floor. The fuel level on the gauge seemed to be inaccurate because the float didnt seem to have apenough travel upward. So, I went with the Boyd tank like most others have.

BTW...it sounds very nice. Very clean build, impressive.

[Arrowhead]

I am going to try use the FFR supplied gas tank.

Do yourself a favor and do a pressure test after you have sending unit, pickup and fill pipe installed. Nothing elaborate, just tape off the inlet hose and one of the pickup tubes and vent and apply slight air pressure. Soap up the connections and check for leaks. The most common problem is the sending unit and or pickup assembly not sealing correctly. You may need different o rings. I found the raised area of the locking ring too high and was getting metal to metal contact before it hit the o ring. Based on your fab skills, it should be no big deal to get it sealed up tight. I also relocated the filler to the rear deck so the hose has a straighter shot.

[stacked33]

Do yourself a favor and do a pressure test after you have sending unit, pickup and fill pipe installed. Nothing elaborate, just tape off the inlet hose and one of the pickup tubes and vent and apply slight air pressure. Soap up the connections and check for leaks. The most common problem is the sending unit and or pickup assembly not sealing correctly. You may need different o rings. I found the raised area of the locking ring too high and was getting metal to metal contact before it hit the o ring. Based on your fab skills, it should be no big deal to get it sealed up tight. I also relocated the filler to the rear deck so the hose has a straighter shot.Yes, I did consider those things. I replaced the square O ring supplied with a round Viton O ring to resist the alcohol in our Minnesota fuel, thinking that would seal better and be easier to get in with out twisting. I also have a plan to deal with the venting issue while filling. If it is successful I will share it. I did not use the supplied fuel pick up but welded in an 8 AN fitting on the bottom for the outlet and a 6 AN fitting on the top for the return line I welded a cover plate where the old pickup was. So even though I am using the stock tank it is not without re engineering and modifications. I have filled it with gasoline and for now it does not leak. After all that I still may regret my decision to use the stock tank but I hope not. Tom

[Arrowhead]

I think you've eliminated the source of any leaking anyway (pickup and sending unit). I don't think I've ever heard of anyone complaining about the tank leaking from any seams.

[Scot]

Wow, very impressive machining and execution!

[lsxsean]

very cool

[stacked33]

Here is a better go kart video.
http://s1363.photobucket.com/user/stacked33/media/IMG_0544_zps4d085df8.mp4.html

[geoffav]

Perhaps I missed it in the text, are the mufflers Spintech or something else? It sounds good under acceleration.

[stacked33]

Perhaps I missed it in the text, are the mufflers Spintech or something else? It sounds good under acceleration.
If you go back to post 13 you will see the exhaust is a custom one off from Stainless Headers in Fargo ND.

[MT-ED]

Ooh yeah baby! That sounds s-weet :cool:

[stacked33]

28266
Made some progress on the air cleaners. The elements are from C Cook Enterprises and the rings holding them on were made at my tool and die shop. I still need to figure out where and how to mount the center two. Notice the filter down by the header on the fire wall. That is where my Idle Air control gets the air it needs.

[BrentM]

That is soooo cool. I love the set up and the go cart video is awesome.

[stacked33]

It's been awhile since I updated. Being in Minnesota I did not need or want the added weight or expense of A/C. But I though for sure I needed some kind of venting to get some air through the interior of the car. So I stuck my neck out and cut a hole in the cowl before finish paint on the body and had to figure out a way to make a cowl vent. Well here it is. I had added the sheet metal box under the dash so the air could have a free ride down to the trans tunnel and if water got in it would not get to the wiring.2940929410294112941229413

[stacked33]

Been awhile. I have tried to attach a video of my very first pass at the drag strip. Air temp was 85 degrees and density altitude was 2900 feet. The car ran an 11.13 at 120 mph+. 60 foot was 1.585. My goal was 10's and for the first pass I was happy. I think with a little playing around I will meet my goal.

http://s1363.photobucket.com/user/stacked33/media/VID_20140726_102750_392_zps13d5205a.mp4.html
http://s1363.photobucket.com/user/stacked33/media/IMG_3195_zps2f8002e9.jpg.html
http://s1363.photobucket.com/user/stacked33/media/IMG_3183_zps06389242.jpg.html

[myjones]

Very clean build all the way through and an impressive set of numbers, especially at that DA.
Nice 60ft time and it looked like it left nice and straight too. I assume you were feathering it quite a ways out on that run.
DB
Hemi33

[stacked33]

Actually only just a bit of feathering. I must have got the instant center in just about the right place on the adjustable 4 link I put in it. It just hooks really good. On my second pass I did a little longer burnout and just hit it right off the line and added .06 seconds to the 60 ft. I think one thing holding me back is the small air cleaners. I talked to the people I bought the elements from and they said they are losing 20-25 HP on the dyno with them. Usually for street driving that won't matter to me. I have built a scoop only for the drag strip to fit over my stacks and than I will run with out the filters. between that and maybe a day with some better air and I will get my 10 second time slip.32775

[stacked33]

I haven't posted much lately. 52702 Been enjoying the car and have about 5000 miles on it. I attached a photo( I think) of the car on the Hotchkiss autocross at the Street Car Nats in St Paul last summer. What a blast. I found that 535 horse power is a bit too much for autocross. LOL!
The custom stack injection has been working so well I have decided to build one for my next project which is a 1940 Plymouth pick up truck that will be highly modified and used as my car trailer tow vehicle. That is why I am posting now as I am looking for a classic 1960ish steering wheel to put in the truck and have been putting the word out anywhere I can to see if I can find something. I am most interested in one of the squarish wheels some of the Mopars had but am open to others but it has to be Mopar with a classic look. T^om