NoVa 818 Build

[STiPWRD]

Sold the donor last week so I figured I should finally get my build thread started. In the short time I've been reading this forum, I've already learned quite a bit and I hope I can contribute something myself. Much thanks to all of the pioneer builders!

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About me: I visited Factory 5 in 2011 and originally had my eye on the GTM but after following the development of the 818 I knew it was going to be perfect for me. This will be my first kit car build but I've been working on my wrx for the past 11 years so I'm familiar with the car. I'm 28 and have a mechanical engineering background. No kids yet so I wanted to get this done while I still had more free time - they say you only YOLO once.

Delivery date: March 29, 2014, I'll be building the S.

Plan:
I'm still in the process of cleaning up some of the donor parts but here are the major items:
New Sti EJ257 short block with JE pistons
02 WRX heads rebuilt with Crower 264 cams, Crower springs, titanium retainers, Ferrea valves, Sti shimless buckets, polished ports
Blouch 2.5R turbo, Megan headers
824cc modded wrx injectors with Boomba fuel rails and 255LPH fuel pump
TurboXS UTEC
PPG gearset (straight 1st and 2nd, helical 3rd and 4th), lightweight flyweel, still need to buy clutch
JDM V7 Brembo calipers and rotors with matching spindles
DR-31s 17x8 front, 18x9 rear with BFGoodrich g-force KDW tires 225/45/17 front, 255/35/18 rear

Goals:
Driving go-cart by summer
Have a summer fun car to occasionally drive to work
Spend some time at the track and autoX (I'm kind of a noob at tracking so hoping to learn much here)

-Slava
(btw NoVa is short for northern Virginia)

[wleehendrick]

Welcome... that should be a monster!

BTW, your chosen front tire size has a 25" overall diameter. If you haven't noticed in other threads, this has been found to cause rubbing. Ideally, you want to front tire to be around 24", this does limit tire selection in sizes wider than 215mm.

[STiPWRD]

good catch! meant to write 225/40/17 instead of 225/45/17. As u mentioned, depending on availability, I might even have to go with 215/40/17

[Kurk818]

Privet,

Should be a great build. Subscribed.

[blueoval_bowtie_guy]

(btw NoVa is short for northern Virginia)

Glad you cleared that up! Even though I don't speak Spanish I read it as "Doesn't Go!"

[Rasmus]

The Virgin Doesn't Go build. Looking forward to it.

[metros]

Looks like you'll be leading the area in 818 builds. I have a time vampire that will be anchoring my progress.

Lusting after the heads on your motor. Should make some really nice power.

[STiPWRD]

The Virgin Doesn't Go build. Looking forward to it.
lol, hey Rasmus, actually I'll be trying to replicate ur steering rack mods using my shiny new harbor freight welder, great pics btw

[STiPWRD]

Looks like you'll be leading the area in 818 builds. I have a time vampire that will be anchoring my progress.

Lusting after the heads on your motor. Should make some really nice power.
Congrats on the new time vampire! I hope I can fit in as much time on the car as possible but when spring hits, I'm gonna have my own yard work vampire

[Art of Boxer]

Subscribed. Looks like it'll be a good build. Will you be running at Summit Point eventually?

[Rasmus]

lol, hey Rasmus, actually I'll be trying to replicate ur steering rack mods using my shiny new harbor freight welder, great pics btw
Thanks man. I always liked build threads when there was a bunch of pictures. Pictures are way better than a line of text that read "Buttoned up steering rack and converted to manual". Plus when I do something wrong or backward the internet is more than willing to point it out.

The key to good welds:
1. gun time
2. good ground
3. clean, clean, clean, & finally
4. clean

[STiPWRD]

Subscribed. Looks like it'll be a good build. Will you be running at Summit Point eventually?
Most definitely, that is the goal. It's only 40 miles from my house.



The key to good welds:
1. gun time
2. good ground
3. clean, clean, clean, & finally
4. clean
I saw ur post from earlier today about the steering rack housing being aluminum. For some reason I thought it was steel - kind of a bummer since I just have a cheap flux core welder (probably gonna invest in a miller multimatic 200 in the future, just not quite yet). I'll probably have to settle for some NPT threaded blanks to plug up the holes. But I should be able to weld up the quill.

[STiPWRD]

Not very exciting, but here's a pic of my cluster on its way to 1,000,000 miles. I've got it hooked up to a pulse generator that's mimicking the speedo signal and tricking the cluster into logging mileage. The hope is that once it hits a million miles, it will reset back to zero and not turn into an expensive paper weight. I could probably squeeze out a faster rate out of the signal generator but the one I'm using is old and doesn't have as much adjustability.
26528
I started at 66k miles and 4 days later, I'm at 120k (logs about 9.5 miles per minute). The odometer reset thread was a big help:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12966-Odometer-reset&highlight=odometer+reset

I know what the problem is, I'm out of gas!
26529

As mentioned in the thread above, if you want your new kit car to have zero mileage on the cluster you have several options:
1. Run a speedo signal with a pulse generator (this is what I'm doing since it is free - I'm borrowing the pulse gen)
2. Send your cluster to a company that will reset it for you (price varies but typically $140+)
3. If you have a wrx cluster you can reflash your own chip with free software (PonyProg2000) using this approach:
http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t105267-diy-reprogram-odometer-your-swapped-dash.html
Note: (I don't think my sti cluster uses the typical 8 pin DIP found in wrx clusters, I think it uses surface mount quad flat pack chip that is more difficult to remove and reprogram)

[K3LAG]

3. If you have a wrx cluster you can reflash your own chip with free software (PonyProg2000) using this approach:
http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t105267-diy-reprogram-odometer-your-swapped-dash.html
Note: (I don't think my sti cluster uses the typical 8 pin DIP found in wrx clusters, I think it uses surface mount quad flat pack chip that is more difficult to remove and reprogram)

Thanks for that link. It might come in handy if it doesn't roll over. Mine should be done on March 11th.

Larry

[Rasmus]

I'll probably have to settle for some NPT threaded blanks to plug up the holes. But I should be able to weld up the quill.

Yep you'll be able to do the quill easy.

On the half steering rack case half that's aluminum you can just fill those holes with JB Weld rather than having to source NPT bungs. Saves a buck and the JB, when cured, almost matches the cast aluminum.

[K3LAG]

As mentioned in the thread above, if you want your new kit car to have zero mileage on the cluster you have several options:
1. Run a speedo signal with a pulse generator (this is what I'm doing since it is free - I'm borrowing the pulse gen)
2. Send your cluster to a company that will reset it for you (price varies but typically $140+)
3. If you have a wrx cluster you can reflash your own chip with free software (PonyProg2000) using this approach:
http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t105267-diy-reprogram-odometer-your-swapped-dash.html
Note: (I don't think my sti cluster uses the typical 8 pin DIP found in wrx clusters, I think it uses surface mount quad flat pack chip that is more difficult to remove and reprogram)

Option 1 didn't work on my '05. stopped at 999999.

Larry

[STiPWRD]

Option 1 didn't work on my '05. stopped at 999999.

Larry
Bummer :( I'll either leave it at 500k or look into a reflash.

Quick update - I'm less than 3 weeks away from picking up my 818S and have been cleaning a few parts. My trans exterior was in rough shape so I tried to refurbish it. After pressure washing and hitting it with WD40 foaming degreaser while scrubbing it with a wire brush, this is the best I was able to do.
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Which is just not gonna cut it. So I think I'm just going to paint it and call it a day. I wasn't planning to do this originally but the years of oxidation have taken a toll and there are just too many crevices to try and get to with a wire brush. The next time there is a warm day, this thing will see some aluminum primer and probably VHT paint.

I also replaced the seals and Andrewtech replaced the bearings on my input shaft. Here's a shot of the PPGs, can't wait to hear these again!
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[Rasmus]

How difficult was it to set the input shaft, output shaft, and shifter forks into the transmission case? I could fit a case half into my blasting cabinet and hit it with baking soda to clean the exterior. Woundn't want to do that with the gears still in it. Plus I need to swap in a LSD and put a speedo gear in.

[STiPWRD]

How difficult was it to set the input shaft, output shaft, and shifter forks into the transmission case? I could fit a case half into my blasting cabinet and hit it with baking soda to clean the exterior. Woundn't want to do that with the gears still in it. Plus I need to swap in a LSD and put a speedo gear in.
It was surprisingly simple. This was my first time working on the trans so I was intimidated at first but with some research and tips from Andrewtech (local shop) it went well.
1. There are a few pins and bearing races that may fall out when handling/cleaning the case halves but it isn't difficult to figure out where they go back. The pins are used to lock the position of 2 bearings (one on the input shaft and one on the lower pinion shaft). There are small holes on the bearings that must be aligned with the pins. The case halves won't seal if these pins and bearing holes are not aligned.
2. The gear selectors on the two shafts must drop into the shift forks, but that is also intuitive.
3. There is a C clip on the rear of the input shaft that must point down towards the lower pinion shaft (just inside the transfer case portion).
4. There is a small tab on the very end of the input shaft that has to be rotated to drop into it's shift fork (I think it is used for tripping the reverse lock out).
5. Make sure to test fit the two case halves together BEFORE siliconing them. There are 4 bolts and metal gasket that bolt a bracket on the lower pinion shaft to the each case half. This bolt pattern must align to fit. If the case halves are already sealed the bracket cannot be rotated. Do at test fit FIRST.
6. Before sealing the 2 case halves, make sure that the gears align on top of each other! if they are mis-aligned, you may have premature failure. Try taking everything out and putting it back in to see if that works. MAKE SURE THAT THE INSIDE IS AS CLEAN and all old silicone has been cleaned out!
7. I also had a hard time fitting the transfer case back on. Make sure to practice a few times BEFORE you try to put silicone and get it to fit. One tip from Andrewtech as to put the trans in 4th.

Also, the gasket reseal kit I got (32001AA160) came with way more gaskets than I needed. I believe they do this to cover a range of model years. Best advice is to knock out the old seals and match them up to new ones that are in the kit. The trans axle diff seals can be knocked out with a large socket. The selector shaft seal can be pried with a screw driver from the inside and the input shaft seal simply slides off. When pressing new seals in, push only on the outer perimeter and not the inner rubber portion, a socket and rubber hammer usually work tine. The speedo seal rarely ever goes bad, but is also included in the re-seal kit.

Here's a helpful link to research:
http://www.ultimatesubaru.org/forum/topic/87305-easy-transmission-front-seal-replacement/

[Rasmus]

Those tips were more detailed than I could have hoped for. Thank you for taking the time to thoroughly explain it. I feel confidant I can easily swap in a speedo gear and replace the differential in my own box, now.

[STiPWRD]

Those tips were most detailed than I could have hoped for. Thank you for taking the time to thoroughly explain it. I feel confidant I can easily swap in a speedo gear and replace the differential in my own box, now.
You got it man, that's the least I can do for learning so much from you and many other on this forum. The info here is a true asset.

[Pearldrummer7]

Wow! That description helps me a ton. Holy crap. Thank you so much! I get more and more inspired by the day to crack open my trans.

[STiPWRD]

Wow! That description helps me a ton. Holy crap. Thank you so much! I get more and more inspired by the day to crack open my trans.
No problem, glad I can help!

[STiPWRD]

Work has been crazy busy lately so haven't had much time to update the build thread, or troll the forum for that matter, but I finally picked up my 818S this past weekend!

Chassis number 150
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All tucked away in the trailer (fits quite nicely in the Uhaul 12' x 6' trailer for about $35 a day). There was about 2" of clearance on either side and about a foot front and back.
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I also got to sit in the show room 818S, which was awesome! The candy red paint job is unbelievable in person and the seating is very low and the suspension felt nice and stiff. Also, I had plenty of leg room inside, although Tony mentioned that this show room model did have the thinner gas tank (probably Boyd). Tony was great too, we chatted a bit. The soft top also looked nice and quality made but expensive.
27506

Finally back in the garage test fitting the seats with my attack dog. With my fixed back Momo seats, I felt like there is still adequate leg room even with the current rear wall in place and I'm 6'2" 180 lbs. I think it's because the seat backs are so much thinner than stock seats. However, we'll see how I feel once the pedals and steering wheel are actually mounted. Also, in the picture, I hadn't taken off the momo seat brackets, which definitely raised the height, so those will be removed.
27507

Gotta still inventory my boxes and start drilling holes in the panels. I'll be powder coating those. Back ordered parts were the head lights, gas tank, the one box of aluminum panels, the #350 springs, and a few other minor things.

Overall impressions are that the kit is very nice and I'm happy with the powder coat job on the chassis. Can't believe I finally own a kit car! Also, we hit a bunch of rain on the ride home and everything held up pretty good. The only places where I saw the first hints of rust starting to form were on the windsheild frame and the bare steel where the chassis number is stamped. I will paint the windsheild frame and probably clear coat the chassis number.

[metros]

Congrats on picking up your kit! Let the fun begin.

[STiPWRD]

Last weekend I buttoned up the trans with the new FFR 2WD conversion parts and (since it's finally warm) was able to paint it with some VHT silver. For some reason, after doing an inventory of all the parts and going through all the boxes, I was most excited about getting the 2WD piece and the trans block off plate (maybe cuz they allowed me to finish the trans)... also excited about getting those FFR key chains :)
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Dropped off a bunch of the steel brackets, door frames, and firewall aluminum panels at the powder coater on Monday so hopefully they'll be ready by Friday the 18th. Meanwhile, yesterday I started refurbishing by steering rack and got it about half way broken down. Still have to figure out how to get the rack out of its housing and get the pinion gear out of its housing so I'll be catching up on some of the earlier threads. But all in all, not the rustiest rack on this forum.
27874

Also decided I'm going to repaint my calipers and probably replace the bearings in my JDM spindles (3 out of 4 don't rotate freely). I've already done some searching for the bearings and seals and will post the parts list later. I may also BOD the bearings (maybe, maybe not) and give them the POR15 treatment. Keeping the stock lug threads for now.
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[STiPWRD]

One other thing I did yesterday was repaint the steel brackets on the wind shield surround because they were showing signs of rust (it rained a lot on my drive home from FFR).
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Other than the wheel bearings, I really have my eye on Mike Everson's coolant piping (but $550 is kinda pricy). Will probably get the alternator bracket and clutch line though from replicaparts.com. And I haven't decided on if I want to get the Boyd tank yet, that's another big purchase. Can't wait to get the steering wheel and pedals installed. BTW, I bought a 12" momo steering wheel but it's still in the mail (should help increase knee space and give a better steering feel). For now, my legs are jello from the half marathon I ran this morning, so taking it easy today. Cheers

[STiPWRD]

New 320mm steering wheel came in yesterday and it's just what I was hoping for - I got it to match my seats. This came off of a porsche so I may have to mod it to fit my column.
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27974

[STiPWRD]

Thought I'd post my monthly update... yes yes, I know I've been neglecting you build thread.

Most of the front suspension and some of the rear suspension is in place and I've riveted the firewall and most of the interior aluminum panels. Drilling the holes in the control arms was sort of a pain - 3 of the 4 holes went fine but I broke off a drill bit in one of the holes and it took me a while to get it out. Next thing on the to-do list is replace wheel bearings so I can hang the spindles.
29125

Also, a bunch of back ordered parts including the box of aluminum came in a week or two ago. The dead pedal aluminum in the manual shows a single piece but I'm assuming these two pieces are the replacement?
2912629127

I'm still missing the following items

80038 Headlight set
33058 Hot Rod Fuel Tank
80277 Fuel level sender connector
80278 Fuel pump connector
33363 Exhaust clamp

I know some guys recently got the fuel tank but I haven't gotten any shipping notifications. Could it be that I might be getting the new modified one? Fingers crossed.

Progress is slow since I'm also renovating the kitchen and putting in hard wood on the first floor but I try to sneak away to bolt things onto the 818. It's very satisfying to see the shrinking pile of bolts.

[Italian333]

awesome progress man! Still trying to find a day to come out and check it out if it ever stops raining here in NOVA!

[STiPWRD]

awesome progress man! Still trying to find a day to come out and check it out if it ever stops raining here in NOVA!

Sure, come up anytime

[metros]

Looking good. Front firewall and interior panels powdercoated? I'm hoping to get mine to powder this weekend. The finish on yours looks good, not too glossy and not too dull.

[STiPWRD]

Yep, the front firewall is powder coated jet black and came out real nice, it feels plenty durable although in the photo you can see a bunch of my fingerprints after the siliconing so it should clean up nice. I just painted the interior aluminum panels with rustolium aluminum primer and black paint since they will be better protected and since I wanted to get that first batch of parts to the powder coater. I'll probably make another powder coat run on some of the body finish parts later.

[Buzz Skyline]

Dang it. I just gave away a signal generator just like that. I figured I wouldn't be doing much electronics work for the foreseeable future. I suppose I could rig one up with a 555 timer chip from Radio Shack. I'll check out the reset thread first though.

[STiPWRD]

Turns out the signal generator can run up the mileage but the cluster doesn't reset back to zero (it stays at 999999). Larry (K3LAG) lives very close to you and sells reprogrammed eeprom chips with zero miles ($30) that can be installed in the wrx clusters. I have an sti cluster so will most likely have to send it to a specialty shop to have them reset it to zero miles.

[metros]

How's the car coming?

[STiPWRD]

How's the car coming?

Looks like you're coming along nicely! Progress has been slow lately due to work being very busy the past few months and the kitchen renovations we're doing - I pretty much haven't had a chance to touch the 818 for a month and a half and it's killing me :(. But I just finally got back at it and finished rebuilding the spindles with new bearings and am about to put those on. Then I have to finish repainting the brakes, hang pedals, steering wheel and mount the seats to figure out if I want to keep the stock gas tank. Those are the near term plans, it just feels like I never have enough time! On the plus side, my last back ordered part (headlights) finally came in last week - not bad it only took 4 months after I picked up the kit.

[STiPWRD]

Got a bit of work done over the weekend - the rear suspension took more effort than I thought but went together eventually. I got the adjustable trailing arms and lateral links off ebay that I've seen other use and matched up the rear lower trailing arm length to stock length (20.25" bolt hole to bold hole) but I didn't have the stock lateral links so I used 16.5" (hole to hole) for those, does that sound about right? I can always adjust later. By the way, I bought an extra set of new brake shoes for the rear e-brake (I thought it came with 2 shoes but each box contains all 4 shoes). So let me know if someone wants some brand new e-brake shoes (Subaru PN 26298PA080).

32116

I also mocked up the steering wheel with Rori's spacer using LongIsland's post as a guide, which was very helpful and took all of 5 minutes to shorten the steering column:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?10668-longislandwrx-Insert-Cool-Nickname-Here-Build-Thread&p=150494&viewfull=1#post150494

I'm also gonna use his shifter lowering standoff idea but with aluminum spacers instead of nylon.

32117

I also installed the pedals and I can definitely see why people have complained about the master brake cylinder bolts. The spacing is just not adequate so I had to shave off a little bit of material from the master cylinder flange to make it work.

32118

Also, it looks like I'll be purchasing a Boyd tank. I tried every trick I could to recover leg room and make the FFR tank work such as using thin momo seats, a smaller 320mm steering wheel, and steering wheel spacer but in the end, it was just not enough to give me adequate leg room (I'm 6'2" 180 lbs for reference). As soon as I moved the seat back those magical 2 inches and sat back in the car, it instantly felt perfect and reminded me of sitting in the red 818 at FFR.

I have 2 questions:

1. Will an 02 wrx fuel sender work with the Boyd tank? I'll have to research the Boyd tank thread but wanted to see if I could get a quick answer. I know they offer a 90 ohm sender for $48 and that the wrx sender is more like 16-158 ohms. Is is possible to fix the Boyd sender with a few resistors?

2. Does anyone know where I can get some reasonably priced 5X100 rotors that will work with Brembo calipers? I bought JDM v7 sti calipers, rotors, and spindles and the rotors will not have enough material left. Replacement rotors from Subaru are very expensive. Another option I'm considering is buying a set of USDM sti rotors and drilling a 5X100 bolt pattern offset from the 5X114 pattern. I measured the following ODs from the rotors I have: Front 12.8" (325 mm), Rear 12.44" (316 mm). Mikeb75 mentioned he found some 12.7" rotors on Summit Racing - these might just work.

[JeromeS13]

1. The OEM sending unit setup uses two variable resistors in series. My opinion: buy the Boyd sending unit and follow the directions posted by AZPete (I think).

2. Buy '04 STi rotors from Rockauto.com. You can get Centric blanks for $34.89 each.

[STiPWRD]

1. The OEM sending unit setup uses two variable resistors in series. My opinion: buy the Boyd sending unit and follow the directions posted by AZPete (I think).

2. Buy '04 STi rotors from Rockauto.com. You can get Centric blanks for $34.89 each.

Thanks, sounds like a plan. I forgot the 04 STI's were 5x100

[Bob_n_Cincy]

1. Will an 02 wrx fuel sender work with the Boyd tank? I'll have to research the Boyd tank thread but wanted to see if I could get a quick answer. I know they offer a 90 ohm sender for $48 and that the wrx sender is more like 16-158 ohms. Is is possible to fix the Boyd sender with a few resistors?


Just measured my Subaru sending unit.
52 ohms empty and 2 ohms full. There are 2 sending units in series on the Subaru tank, so 104 ohms empty to 4 ohms full.
I have a 12" tall tank that I am filling with safety foam, so I can't use the Subaru or Boyd (float on arm) type sending unit.
I am using a VDO unit #224-229 which is 90 empty and 0 ohms full. This will read pretty close, but I can add a 10 ohm resistor to make empty read perfect.
Bob
32157

[STiPWRD]

Thanks Bob, I guess I'll grab the Boyd sender along with the tank and rig up some resistors to get the correct empty level.

[STiPWRD]

Does anyone have an extra set of rear outer CV joints from an sti? After assembling my FFR axles with my old wrx CV joints and trying to insert them into my sti rear spindles, I quickly realized the wrx CV shafts were too small and wouldn't fit, major bummer :(

It seems the wrx rear outer joints are 24 splines (0.970 diameter) and the sti wheel hubs are 27 splines (1.087 diameter). Also, does anyone know if the FFR axles will work with sti outer CV joints? I guess I'll find out eventually but I'm hoping they'll slide in, otherwise I'd hate to have custom axles shafts made.

[Boog]

I cant seem to find if you are going for a 5 or 6 speed along with your 5x114.3 knuckles.

I trust it as much as anything on the internet (needs verification), but I have read that the male stub axles from a 5mt plug into a 6mt. This makes me hopeful that an STI front inner CV can be used with a 5mt, which matches the STI axle shaft and outer CV. Its not a solution but it does give more puzzle pieces to play with.

I can see all this trial and error getting expensive quickly.

[STiPWRD]

I cant seem to find if you are going for a 5 or 6 speed along with your 5x114.3 knuckles.

I trust it as much as anything on the internet (needs verification), but I have read that the male stub axles from a 5mt plug into a 6mt. This makes me hopeful that an STI front inner CV can be used with a 5mt, which matches the STI axle shaft and outer CV. Its not a solution but it does give more puzzle pieces to play with.

I can see all this trial and error getting expensive quickly.

I'm running an 02 wrx 5 speed trans with male stubs and the knuckles are 02 JDM STI so they are actually 5x100. I'm calling a few local shops to see if they have sti rear outer cv jounts but I too am worried about this getting expensive - that's what I get for trying to run brembos :/

[Mechie3]

I think you can run brembos on 06WRX knuckles. On the rear, I'm not sure if you need the full knuckle or if you just need the appropriate backing plate. I never fully looked into this so might be confusing two things, but it's worth taking a look.

[STiPWRD]

I looked through Sponaugle's build thread since it looks like he is running the same setup and judging from the picture of the sti front and rear axles, it looks like they use a different spline count and will not work with the front inner wrx joints that attach to the 5 speed mt.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?14139-Sponaugle-s-H6-EZ30R-818S&p=158780&viewfull=1#post158780

It seems I might end up getting one of these rear brembo adapter kits and try to sell my freshly rebuilt rear sti spindles and rotors. Oh well 2 steps forward, 1 step back.
http://www.fastwrx.com/products/rear-brembo-dba-slotted-adapter-kit-02-05-wrx

[Brando]

http://www.fastwrx.com/products/rear-brembo-dba-slotted-adapter-kit-02-05-wrx
And quite the bargain at $600 :confused:

[STiPWRD]

And quite the bargain at $600 :confused:
Yea, my head hurts today. But the alternative would be to buy sti rear axles, which aren't cheap either and they try to figure out how to connect them to my 5 speed trans. I've done some searching and haven't found inner cv joints that will work with sti axles and wrx trans stubs. Or I'd have to replace my diff to accept sti rear inner stubs, which I don't even know if such a thing exists. I just hope I can re-coupe some of the cost by selling those spindles. There's just no easy (or cheap) way out... sigh

[Brando]

I tried doing exactly what you are doing with STI hubs. I ended up throwing in the towel and just going with the 5 x 100's. I didn't realize that the 2002 WRX STI was a 5x100, maybe there is something there to work with.
Buying used WRX knuckles would probably be the cheapest way out wouldn't it?

[STiPWRD]

I tried doing exactly what you are doing with STI hubs. I ended up throwing in the towel and just going with the 5 x 100's. I didn't realize that the 2002 WRX STI was a 5x100, maybe there is something there to work with.
Buying used WRX knuckles would probably be the cheapest way out wouldn't it?

Yep, I still have my passenger side rear spindle from my 02 wrx donor but I sold the rear driver spindle, so now I have to find a replacement. I'll probably end up rebuilding these wrx rear spindle with new bearings and paint, more fun! That rear caliper bracket is $200 and the special rotors are $377 ($577 total). Mach V Motorsports right down the street from me sells these adapter kits. By the way, I love your race videos on youtube.

[STiPWRD]

Well, thought I'd clear the dust from my build thread and post a few progress pics.

Lately I've been trying to get the motor together which has involved a whole lot of research and buying a few specialty tools such as a micrometer for measuring piston diameter, digital cylinder bore gauge, piston ring file, 2' straight edge tool for checking flatness, and a piston ring compressor (the HF one worked fine). I started with a stock EJ257 short block and replaced the cast pistons with forged JE pistons (291059) meant for the 2.0 wrx heads I'll be running - these bring the compression ration back to 8.5:1. The most time consuming part of building the short block was measuring the piston to bore clearances and filing the rings. Every ring needed filing and the Proform 66785 ring file tool worked well. Be sure to sand down the rough edges every time the ring is filed. It also takes some finesse to get the stock pistons out and the new pistons in without scraping the cylinder wall with the rod, but it can be done by holding the rod through the wrist pin hole. I used a 1/4" rod with some tape on the end for cushion to knock out the wrist pins from the opposite side of the block. Youtube, as always, was a huge help.
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Installed ARP Head studs
36955
Went with the stock subaru head gaskets
36956
Re-decked 2.0 cylinder heads with Ferrea valves
36957
New Crower 264 cams and springs/retainers underneath
36958
Head installed on the short block with sti shimless buckets
36959
Thanks for the tip Andrew and Tamra on those two smaller cam bearing bolts, I could've easily over torqued those.

[STiPWRD]

Rear brakes
36960
Brake line routing
369613696236963
The remote reservoir mod from Mike Everson worked great, I also picked up his clutch line and coolant hard lines.
Front brakes
36964
Long block finally assembled with the powder coated valve covers
36965

I would highly recommend going with the copper nickel brake lines, metric fittings, and using the eastwood brake flaring tool (Thanks metros for letting me borrow yours!). The copper nickel bends way easier, looks better, and you can get rid of all those adapters. Be sure to get more than 25' - this will only be enough to do the brakes but not the clutch line. I ended up not having to use any adapters or couplers in the brake lines.

[Tamra]

Everything looks really really tidy and clean! Nice job!

On your remote reservoir, I believe where you currently have it mounted will be in direct interference with the windshield surround. In this thread here (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12471-Remote-brake-clutch-reservoir), AZPete looks like he shifted his forward so he would only have to cut a portion of the surround. Although, now that I'm looking more closely, it looks like that might be temporary for you (is that a ziptie I see?), If so, please disregard :)


Edit: and you're welcome on the cam bolts! So glad we spared you that terrifying headache of a broken bolt in a freshly machined head. -shudder-

[STiPWRD]

Everything looks really really tidy and clean! Nice job!

On your remote reservoir, I believe where you currently have it mounted will be in direct interference with the windshield surround. In this thread here (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12471-Remote-brake-clutch-reservoir), AZPete looks like he shifted his forward so he would only have to cut a portion of the surround. Although, now that I'm looking more closely, it looks like that might be temporary for you (is that a ziptie I see?), If so, please disregard :)


Edit: and you're welcome on the cam bolts! So glad we spared you that terrifying headache of a broken bolt in a freshly machined head. -shudder-
Yes, the remote reservoir is temporarily attached with a zip tie and I'll most likely mount it somewhere to the frame above the battery to make room for the wipers.

Speaking of stripped bolts, I did manage to strip one of those philips countersunk screws on the back of the block that holds the left wrist pin cover so I did have to drill that out but luckily everything went well and I got a fresh one from subaru. I had to pick up one of those impact screw drivers for $6 from HF which worked really well for the other screw. I'm gonna use this tool from now on.
http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html

[Hindsight]

Nice progress! Had to do a double take when this popped up.... been so long! Glad you are making steady progress.

[AZPete]

Nice neat brake lines. On the left front you may want to move the two lines that go down and through the opening to the outside. There is an aluminum splash panel that goes at the inside/rear of the front wheel so it's best to have those two lines enter the opening from the inside, near the lower control arm mount.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb180/AZPeteCobra/LftFrtsplashpanel.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/AZPeteCobra/media/LftFrtsplashpanel.jpg.html)

[STiPWRD]

Nice neat brake lines. On the left front you may want to move the two lines that go down and through the opening to the outside. There is an aluminum splash panel that goes at the inside/rear of the front wheel so it's best to have those two lines enter the opening from the inside, near the lower control arm mount.

Pete, thanks for the tip but I was planning on just cutting some holes in that aluminum panel to clear the brake lines. I thought about routing them more inside but wanted the lines to hug the firewall as much as possible to avoid vibration. I might re-route them later on, we'll see.

[STiPWRD]

Nice progress! Had to do a double take when this popped up.... been so long! Glad you are making steady progress.

Thanks, I saw your post in another thread about the upper coolant line and just using the existing nipple instead of tapping a hole for a barbed fitting and I think I'll use that approach as well. That existing nipple is at nearly the same elevation and I didn't see any obstructions to the air getting out to the de-gas tank.

[Frank818]

I like the rear rotors but I was surprised to see the front ones are plain. Any reason to be different than the rears?

[metros]

Congrats on getting the engine mostly together! That's another big step forward in the build.

[STiPWRD]

I like the rear rotors but I was surprised to see the front ones are plain. Any reason to be different than the rears?
Mostly cost, the fronts are $35 (ea) centric blanks and the rear are special $350 (both) DBA rotors that have the sti rear diameter but fit on wrx rear spindles and e-brake. If I could've put cheaper rotors on the rear, I probably would have. I might upgrade the front rotors later but there have been so many recent part purchases (and more to come), I'm just trying to manage cost. Project creep... it's real :( In fact, I've got my eyes on a Quaife LSD $$$ ouch.


Congrats on getting the engine mostly together! That's another big step forward in the build.
Thanks man, I just want to put the engine in the 818 and start it up but I'm a long ways out. Just enjoying the build process and taking my time. Next things on the list are finishing the engine, rear firewall, and diet the harness. How's your build going?

[metros]

I've got my eye on the same Quaife LSD. It's the one part of my build that I'm not really satisfied with as it currently is. The thought of pulling the trans back out of the car now is not very appealing though.

My build got sidelined today as I had a hernia repaired. I did leave several little jobs that can be done standing straight up so that as I feel a little better I can continue working on it. My seats should be arriving in the next couple weeks. I decided for my 2nd try I'd go with Bimarco Futura seats.

[STiPWRD]

My build got sidelined today as I had a hernia repaired. I did leave several little jobs that can be done standing straight up so that as I feel a little better I can continue working on it. My seats should be arriving in the next couple weeks. I decided for my 2nd try I'd go with Bimarco Futura seats.

Hope get well soon and enjoy the time with the family. Those seats look cool and light weight, should be a nice touch.

[STiPWRD]

The weather has been cold lately so I headed into the basement and decided to tackled the wiring. Over the past 2 weeks I've spent about 30 hours on it and am at a point where most of the trimming is done and the harness is ready to be test fit into the car. I found Larry's (K3LAG) guide very helpful in terms of figuring out where to start, I'm sure it saved me a lot of frustration and I'm also sure I'll do more tweaking to the wiring later on. All of the cut-away wiring, connectors, and harness wrap came out to 20 lbs.

Before:
38357

After:
38358

What was cut away:
38359

[K3LAG]

Nice job. I really should write Part 4 of my process one of these days.

Larry

[STiPWRD]

Nice job. I really should write Part 4 of my process one of these days.

Larry
Thanks Larry, I just hope the car starts ;) I'd be interested in checking out your 818 sometime this spring when the weather gets warmer, maybe go for a ride?

One other tip about the wiring - it really does help to label all of the connectors first, especially around the bulkhead area. I found myself eager to start cutting wires and it does help to identify connectors when other ones are near by for reference.

[STiPWRD]

I had the day off yesterday due to snow so I spent it tearing down my turbo. It turns out what I thought (and what the seller claimed) was a blouch 2.5R is actually a TD05H 18G.
393533935439355
I bought this turbo back in 2008 but it had been sitting in a box since then. Not only that but turns out it had some shaft play (hence the rebuild). At least taking it apart allowed me to measure things and figure out that the mystery turbo was indeed an 18G. Also, the $40 rebuild kit is much cheaper than buying a new turbo.

Any recommendations for places that do turbo balancing? I called blouch but they seem to be closed for the day.

Also, the new engine is pretty much complete so I'll be installing that soon.
3935639357

My old 2.0 short block and heads are posted on craigslist
39358

[Kurk818]

Man that is a pretty engine. Good work. There is definitely a sense of satisfaction installing clean, refreshed bits on the 818. I dont enjoy doing things twice.

[STiPWRD]

Man that is a pretty engine. Good work. There is definitely a sense of satisfaction installing clean, refreshed bits on the 818. I dont enjoy doing things twice.

Thanks man, I know how you feel. I spent a lot of time on the intake manifold shaving off the casting imperfections and some of the tabs and then had it, the TGVs, and valve covers powder coated. Also, pretty much every bolt has been soaked in evaporust.

[metros]

Looking good!

BTW, is that the correct spot for the Michael Everson alternator turn buckle? I have mine oriented in a more vertical orientation.

[STiPWRD]

Looking good!

BTW, is that the correct spot for the Michael Everson alternator turn buckle? I have mine oriented in a more vertical orientation.

You're right, looks like it should be more vertical. Seems to work both ways, I'll probably fix it later though. Thanks

[STiPWRD]

I got the motor in the car a few weeks ago and have been working on plumbing all the lines. Here are some pics.
41991
41992
41993
41994
41995
41996

[STiPWRD]

I used this throw-out bearing sleeve kit:
41997
41998

Trans mounted
41999

18G vs old TD04
4200042001

Tim Scott Turbo's and Fab rebuilt and balanced my turbo, I'd definitely recommend the guy
42002

[STiPWRD]

I also bought my AWIC through Craig along with a few other Zero dB parts (rear AWIC bracket, rear fender brace, top radiator mounts, heat exchanger mounts, and turbo heat shield). Craig was a pleasure to work with and I'm sure I'll be coming back for the louvers later on when I do the body. I did have to the massage the bottom of the rear AWIC bracket to fit on my trans, I'm not sure if this is dependent on the model year but the bottom of the bracket measured 4.045 and the trans mounting point was 4.110 so I had to stretch the bottom of the bracket a bit. It worked out in the end and I think looks great.
42003
42004
42005
42006
42007
42008

I'm hoping to get this thing running before I have my first child in July but at this rate who knows. Either way, just enjoying the ride!

[Kurk818]

That is looking clean. :)

Great headway. Keep it up!

[Scargo]

Can you clock your compressor? If so you could save over a foot of length in plumbing by pointing the outlet vertically and flipping over the AWIC. You'd remove a warm tube from under a cooled-down inlet hose at the throttle body, too and get less lag.

[Frank818]

That looks cool!

[STiPWRD]

That is looking clean. :)

Great headway. Keep it up!
Thanks!


Can you clock your compressor? If so you could save over a foot of length in plumbing by pointing the outlet vertically and flipping over the AWIC. You'd remove a warm tube from under a cooled-down inlet hose at the throttle body, too and get less lag.
I played around with clocking the turbo when I was reassembling the compressor housing back on the CHRA but I would have to mod the wastegate bracket for anything but the stock orientation. Plus I wanted to have the BOV located off of the intercooler so that's why I went with my current setup. The run from the AWIC to TB is very short so I'm not too concerned with heat from the lower pipe. In case anyone is interested, the total cost of my AWIC setup was about $660 including the frozen boost parts through Craig, 30' of 0.75 ID hose from Napa for the heat exchanger to AWIC and HKS BOV and adapter pipe from ebay. The rear AWIC bracket was $125 and front heat exchanger bracket was $65, so make that $850 including brackets.

[sponaugle]

Thanks!


I played around with clocking the turbo when I was reassembling the compressor housing back on the CHRA but I would have to mod the wastegate bracket for anything but the stock orientation. Plus I wanted to have the BOV located off of the intercooler so that's why I went with my current setup. The run from the AWIC to TB is very short so I'm not too concerned with heat from the lower pipe. In case anyone is interested, the total cost of my AWIC setup was about $660 including the frozen boost parts through Craig, 30' of 0.75 ID hose from Napa for the heat exchanger to AWIC and HKS BOV and adapter pipe from ebay. The rear AWIC bracket was $125 and front heat exchanger bracket was $65, so make that $850 including brackets.


Nice. Yea with an internal wastegate you are limited in how you can rotate the compressor cover. I have my current setup pretty much as Scargo mentioned:

http://www.sponaugle.com/818/TurboOutput.jpg

I had to order a few different silicone couplers, but in the end it worked out.

Great to see your progress!

Jeff

[Mechie3]

I noticed the brackets were a little tighter too when I fit one of the new ones on my car. Not sure if it was just due to inaccuracies in my bending or warping from welding. Glad you got yours to fit and you like the kit. :)

Jeff, my TD04 setup looks like yours. I make a bracket to clock the TD04, but no other turbos simply because I don't have any to work off of.

[STiPWRD]

That looks cool!
Thanks Frank!


Nice. Yea with an internal wastegate you are limited in how you can rotate the compressor cover. I have my current setup pretty much as Scargo mentioned:

http://www.sponaugle.com/818/TurboOutput.jpg

I had to order a few different silicone couplers, but in the end it worked out.

Great to see your progress!

Jeff
Can't wait to see that monster out on the open road!


I noticed the brackets were a little tighter too when I fit one of the new ones on my car. Not sure if it was just due to inaccuracies in my bending or warping from welding. Glad you got yours to fit and you like the kit. :)

Jeff, my TD04 setup looks like yours. I make a bracket to clock the TD04, but no other turbos simply because I don't have any to work off of.
I have a feeling it was from the welding - just something to keep track of for the future. One other thing I noticed was that the angled 2" pipe we got with the 45 degree angle had too much of a bend so I just cut it into two straight pieces and coupled them with a hump hose. I didn't use a bead roller on the pipes I cut so we'll see if they start popping loose under boost (I've been there) but they seemed pretty tight.

[metros]

Looking good! Lots of progress lately. Will it run and drive this summer?

[STiPWRD]

Looking good! Lots of progress lately. Will it run and drive this summer?

I certainly hope so but it kind of depends on how much free time I'll have after the baby comes. I used to have time goals for accomplishing things but after a year of missing the mark, I guess I'm not trying to set expectations anymore. It's a lot less stress this way. You'll probably be go-karting before I will, btw you still want that radiator hose?

[Hindsight]

I didn't use a bead roller on the pipes I cut so we'll see if they start popping loose under boost (I've been there) but they seemed pretty tight.

If you don't have a bead roller at your disposal, you can make a bead with a pair of wire cutter/crimpers like these: http://www.zoro.com/klein-tools-dieless-crimpers-and-crimpers-with-dies/g/00055450/

You open the crimpers, insert the tubing until it stops on the back of the jaws, then you squeeze down. It makes a single bump in the tubing. Move the crimpers 1/8" to the right and squeeze to create another bump. It doesn't look as nice as a bead roller bead, but it is functional and will serve the purpose of preventing hose blow off. It's also going to be hidden by the hose so no one but you will ever see it.

[STiPWRD]

If you don't have a bead roller at your disposal, you can make a bead with a pair of wire cutter/crimpers like these: http://www.zoro.com/klein-tools-dieless-crimpers-and-crimpers-with-dies/g/00055450/

You open the crimpers, insert the tubing until it stops on the back of the jaws, then you squeeze down. It makes a single bump in the tubing. Move the crimpers 1/8" to the right and squeeze to create another bump. It doesn't look as nice as a bead roller bead, but it is functional and will serve the purpose of preventing hose blow off. It's also going to be hidden by the hose so no one but you will ever see it.
I was thinking of just splurging and just getting this one for $140:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Woodward-Sheet-Metal-Bead-Roller-Steel-Gear-Drive-Bench-Mount-18-Gauge-Capacity-/331554779179?hash=item4d3234702b&item=331554779179&vxp=mtr

Wayne uses a nicer unit from Vibrant (#2990) for $290:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?15149-37-Degrees-South-RHD-818S-build-thread&p=174054&viewfull=1#post174054

If my hoses hold tight under boost I'll probably just hold off on buying one of these though.

[STiPWRD]

Update:
We had a baby boy last week so finding time to work on the 818 has been tough but I've snuck in a few hours here and there. I've pretty much been trying to get the motor ready to fire up - getting all the hoses plumbed, nipples plugged, and fluids filled.

Today I started laying in my dieted harness:
43664

Got the wheels mounted:
43665436664366743668

Interior right before wiring:
43669

[STiPWRD]

436704367143672

I also bought a yamaha charcoal canister off ebay that fit prefectly on one of the back rails:
43673

At this point I just need to finish the wiring, mount my grimmspeed ebcs and I should be close to firing it up.

[metros]

Nice progress! Your dieted harness looks pretty tidy.

If you haven't filled your cooling systems yet - I have a tool you need to borrow. I picked up the uview airlift - creates a vacuum in your cooling system then feeds coolant into the system until all the air is removed. Took maybe 5 minutes to have an air free cooling system. I did it for both engine and AWIC systems. I can drop it off one day if you'd like to try it out.

[STiPWRD]

Nice progress! Your dieted harness looks pretty tidy.

If you haven't filled your cooling systems yet - I have a tool you need to borrow. I picked up the uview airlift - creates a vacuum in your cooling system then feeds coolant into the system until all the air is removed. Took maybe 5 minutes to have an air free cooling system. I did it for both engine and AWIC systems. I can drop it off one day if you'd like to try it out.

That would be awesome! Would tomorrow evening work?

[metros]

I'm on dad duty tomorrow but I will be taking my son to a dr. appointment at 10. I could drop it off at your home if someone is going to be around.

Congrats on the new addition to your family BTW.

[Flamshackle]

Congrats on the baby boy! I have three boys and they are a blast :-)

All the best to you and mom, Its the most important thing you will ever do with your life.

[Mechie3]

Congrats!

[STiPWRD]

I'm on dad duty tomorrow but I will be taking my son to a dr. appointment at 10. I could drop it off at your home if someone is going to be around.

Congrats on the new addition to your family BTW.
Thanks! How about Wednesday, Thursday or Friday evening?


Congrats on the baby boy! I have three boys and they are a blast :-)

All the best to you and mom, Its the most important thing you will ever do with your life.
Thanks! I totally agree and can't wait to teach him about cars and hopefully do a build with him a few years down the road, maybe a cobra?



Congrats!
Thanks!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Congratulations
This is my son Michael Building an 150 HP AC invert for an electric car.
43676
This is Mike as part of the winning team at pikes peak. Fastest Motorcycle up the mountain.
43677
I'm Livin the Dream.
It's your turn now.
Bob

[STiPWRD]

Congratulations
This is my son Michael Building an 150 HP AC invert for an electric car.
43676
This is Mike as part of the winning team at pikes peak. Fastest Motorcycle up the mountain.
43677
I'm Livin the Dream.
It's your turn now.
Bob
Thanks Bob, looking forward to it!

[metros]

I can stop by Wednesday briefly on my way through. That actually works out because I forgot to grab it on the way out the door today.

I was considering a cobra build with my son as well in a few years. At 19 months he already loves to see what I'm doing in the garage. It's a joy that's really indescribable. Enjoy it.

[pikapp504]

That's some awesome progress, man! If you need/want a hand one evening soon (and I'd like to be there for the maiden start-up), gimme a call! Almost there!

[STiPWRD]

That's some awesome progress, man! If you need/want a hand one evening soon (and I'd like to be there for the maiden start-up), gimme a call! Almost there!
I've got a date with the soldering iron tomorrow evening.I've got a date with the soldering iron tomorrow evening. And metros will be making an appearance!

[pikapp504]

So once all soldered up, you going to try and start her up tonight? If you need help tracing wires, I'm not too terrible at electronics. ;-)

[STiPWRD]

I'm not that ambitious, after wiring I still have to scale my larger injectors and a bit of other fine tuning in the ECU. Also, waiting on a silicone coupler for my air filter. I'd guesstimate another week or two before I'll be ready.

[pikapp504]

Sounds good. Like I said, if you want some company and/or some help, you have my number; I'm only 3 minutes down the road, literally. lol

[STiPWRD]

I had a rather anti-climactic weekend - spent all day Saturday finishing the final details before my first start and thought I was going to start it Sunday morning. I was going to kart through my neighborhood while my ppg gears whined in the background... needless to say that didn't happen.

The first stumbling block was the small battery I was trying to use (Odessey PC625) mounted in the front I think ran out of juice pretty quickly once I developed oil pressure cranking the engine over. It may have worked if I mounted it in the back (less voltage drop) but I'm keeping the battery up front for better weight balance. So I went out and got a properly sized battery from Advance auto parts, then it cranked over fine but still didn't fire.

After confirming fuel pressure and checking grounds I grabbed the code scanner and pulled up a number of codes: P0108, P0118, P0122, P0183, P1086, P1088, P1094, P1096 (or MAP sensor, Coolant Temp sensor, TPS sensor, Fuel Temp sensor, and 4 TGV codes). This led me to start tracing connections in the wiring harness. I had a bad connection at a wire at the SMJ connector, which fixed the MAP code. Next I found out I had a bad TPS sensor so a new one is on order. The fuel temp and TGV codes should not prevent me from starting the motor so the only one left to fix is the coolant temp sensor (3 pin sensor located on upper cross over pipe and a huuuuuge pain to access). I had to dismantle the whole top end of the motor to get at it but it appears to not be getting an power voltage and the ground pin has a 6 ohm resistance to chassis (not sure if that matters). The actual sensor seems fine and similar to another coolant sensor I had laying around - both measure 1.66 kohm at 90F across 2 of the pins (supposed to be 2.5kohm at 20C). The FSM says this sensor should be producing a signal output of 1.0-1.4V but doesn't mention what the input voltage is supposed to be.

My next step is to trace the wiring for the coolant temp sensor but I ran out of steam Sunday evening. Hopefully it's as simple as bypassing a connector on a wire like for the MAP sensor.

On the plus side, I brought the 818 out of the garage for the first time. This thing is loooooow, the top of the roll bar is belly button height:
450444504545046450474504845049

[Frank818]

Interesting, you're saying the smaller sized battery PC625 (which is quite used as aftermarket if I recall) can't hold being on the opposite side of the engine? Very interesting, it means I'm better off with my Optima battery then and shouldn't think yet of a smaller/lighter one. Tnx for the info.

Bad grounds are often a problem, doesn't it's what you have but hopefully you'll find out soon.

Pretty nice pix!

[STiPWRD]

Thanks Frank. Yea the PC625 cranked the engine over fine before the oil made it to the galleys but once id did, it died a few seconds of cranking shortly after. By the way, if anyone wants to buy it and mount it in the rear, PM me.

I guess flushing out wiring issues comes with the territory of dieting the harness. :/

[Frank818]

I believe the PC625 is good for a short cranking period. I read about it a while back and if I recall, it can crank with good power but for a short period only. Which might be your problem. One of your problems, actually... and you fixed it. :)

[mikeb75]

Super clean looking engine install!

Sorry the start was delayed; I'm running a small battery out front also; it cranks & starts the engine (for me); but certainly goes flat fast.

I keep on a BatteryTender & had to get a charger on it during the dyno session.

Good Luck knocking out the last issues before your startup.

[metros]

Very tidy engine compartment. I like the degas tank for awic. One of those, why didn't I think of that ideas.

What'd you think of the ulift?

Good luck getting it sorted. Sounds like you're well on your way to ironing out the bugs.

[STiPWRD]

Super clean looking engine install!

Sorry the start was delayed; I'm running a small battery out front also; it cranks & starts the engine (for me); but certainly goes flat fast.

I keep on a BatteryTender & had to get a charger on it during the dyno session.

Good Luck knocking out the last issues before your startup.
Thanks Mike, I was hoping to keep the smaller battery but will probably just stick with the normal size one for less trouble down the road.



Very tidy engine compartment. I like the degas tank for awic. One of those, why didn't I think of that ideas.

What'd you think of the ulift?

Good luck getting it sorted. Sounds like you're well on your way to ironing out the bugs.
The AWIC degas tank was sort of a lucky find on Ebay. I got it for $25 and it's a Canton aluminum tank with the 3/4 fittings I needed for my hoses. Apparently these tanks are 4-5X more expensive new.

I couldn't draw a vacuum with the ulift greater than 5 psi, I think I may have a leak in the system somewhere or couldn't get a good seal. I'm hoping to find the leak once I get the engine running and finish bleeding the coolant. Thanks again for letting me borrow that.

BTW, I fixed the engine coolant code! It was another bad connection at the SMJ connector. I'm debating on bypassing all the wires and getting rid of that connector entirely. My new TPS sensor should arrive on Friday so fingers crossed I'll get it started this weekend.

[STiPWRD]

Success!! #150 was officially started and go-karted yesterday!
https://youtu.be/ZNoLwEZO3Bg
https://youtu.be/3pIHFYZI4wY

Overall, I'm highly satisfied with the sound - the 2.5 block/2.0 head combo, 264 crower cams, and megan headers really produce a distinct exhaust note. Also, I have to fine tune the idle since I probably over scaled the injectors (824cc) and it's running a bit lean.

It turns out my TPS sensor was fine and all the codes really were due to bad connections at the SMJ connector. For anyone dieting the harness, be mindful of this connector as it runs several critical engine sensor, coils, and injectors. I hard wired all the connections and ditched the connector completely. As I went along I checked continuity at each pin and only 15 of 30 connections were good. Here's the culprit:
45122
This also allowed me to delete a large loop of wire and shorten things up by the ECU:
45123

By the way, the knock-off $15 TPS sensor I got was junk, I'll be returning it. It only had enough rotational angle to read the first 47% - learn from me, stick to OEM.

[metros]

Congrats! Sounds real good as is. Any plans on changing the exhaust after getting through registration?

I may end up following your lead with the 2.5 block. Depends what everything looks like after tear down.

[STiPWRD]

Congrats! Sounds real good as is. Any plans on changing the exhaust after getting through registration?

I may end up following your lead with the 2.5 block. Depends what everything looks like after tear down.
I'm planning on replicating what Sean Keehn did with the dual exhaust:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40171&d=1427997120
With the parts he listed, I can weld it myself for cheap. Eventually my goal would be to buy a tig welder and re-make it out of stainless. Also I would angle the tips so the come out lower to try and mimic Vman's rear end design.

Are you tearing your engine down? I missed that. How was MachV?

[PleiadsMan]

Hey man I sent you a PM, I'm local to you and would Love to come check out your progress. Maybe share a few Tips!

[Hindsight]

Congrats on the first start and go-kart! I'm still trying to figure out what I want to do with mine and I need to make up my mind soon. RE the pic of Sean's setup, if you don't need a cat, you could flip it over so the inlet is on the turbo-side for simpler routing with fewer bends. That's my plan if I go that route.

[STiPWRD]

Hey man I sent you a PM, I'm local to you and would Love to come check out your progress. Maybe share a few Tips!
I sent you a text, come on by!



Congrats on the first start and go-kart! I'm still trying to figure out what I want to do with mine and I need to make up my mind soon. RE the pic of Sean's setup, if you don't need a cat, you could flip it over so the inlet is on the turbo-side for simpler routing with fewer bends. That's my plan if I go that route.

Thanks, Very true. If I keep the extra section of pipe, I'll have an interchangeable cat or straight pipe to swap in for emissions.

[mikeb75]

Very Awesome! Congrats on the start and go-kart.

Especially liked the small part that fell off when you pulled out of the garage (couldn't tell what it was), and since it wasn't needed -time to RAWK! :cool:

Sounds pretty mean!

[STiPWRD]

Very Awesome! Congrats on the start and go-kart.

Especially liked the small part that fell off when you pulled out of the garage (couldn't tell what it was), and since it wasn't needed -time to RAWK! :cool:

Sounds pretty mean!
lol, what good is a shake down run if nothing falls off right ;)
That was actually the cap off of a bottle I was pouring water from - I forgot to take it off the degas tank. I was being ovely nervous that one of my wheels was going to roll off when I made that U turn though, can't wait to dial in the base tune and take it for a longer drive around the block. What a great weekend!

[pikapp504]

Congrats, man! Glad to see her running and moving under her own power! So...when does the passenger seat get bolted in? ;-) If you want/need a hand one day, just lemme know!

[STiPWRD]

Congrats, man! Glad to see her running and moving under her own power! So...when does the passenger seat get bolted in? ;-) If you want/need a hand one day, just lemme know!
Soon, I've been fine tuning my injector scaling and installing a few other odds and ends (wideband o2 and gauge, ambient temp sensor, bleeding coolant, tightening hoses etc...) I had to order a few more bolts for the passenger seat so they should be in any day now. I'll text you once I get the car running good enough to go longer than 0.1 miles.
I also did a compression test and got 135-140 across all cylinders, this should go up slightly once the new piston rings are broken in.

[pikapp504]

Yeah, 135-140 on a fresh engine is good. Once the rings seat, you'll likely see pressures in the 170-180 range. Once the tuning is done, a few hard pulls and lots of engine braking, and she'll be seated.

[STiPWRD]

I took the wife out for her first ride in the 818, here's a quick video of our Sunday morning drive:
https://youtu.be/8ETit-Z7LyU
Sorry the sound was kinda choppy on my wifes iphone.

I've just about finished my wiring, installed the wideband, mounted the passenger seat and harnesses and fixed my front toe alignment (using the quicktrick system). The car drives way better now. I've also got my injectors dialed in to the point where the car is driveable but I've got a lot of road tuning to do under boost. That will probably come much later since I can't exactly drive fast in my neighborhood.

I also bought a muffler and some piping for the dual exhaust I'll be fabbing up, so that's probably next on the list.

[Hindsight]

Nice! I am looking forward to taking my wife for her first ride as well.

It sounds like you have PPG gears in there (1st and 2nd maybe?).

[STiPWRD]

Nice! I am looking forward to taking my wife for her first ride as well.

It sounds like you have PPG gears in there (1st and 2nd maybe?).
Right, PPG 1-4, 1-2 straight, 3-4 helical

[Hindsight]

Nice, that is on my wish list. What do you think of the noise of the straight cuts? Do you think it will ever get annoying, or is it not that loud?

[STiPWRD]

I drove with the noise for many years when this transmission was in my wrx, it never got old :)

[Hindsight]

Ok good to know... that may help me decide which way to go when I blow up my current transmission.

[STiPWRD]

Inspired by Vman's rear end design, I've been working on a dual exhaust. It's nearly done but I still need to weld in the O2 bung, paint it and wrap it. I got about 10 hours of work into it including making the hanger and another 2 to go. I basically cut up some tubes with my angle grinder and welded everything together with my HF flux core welder. The muffler is 3" inlet and 2.5" outlets. I'm pretty happy with the result, it's loud! Here's the cost break down:

Part: QTY: Cost: Shipping:
Muffler 1 $73 $0 http://www.ebay.com/itm/281783473248?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
2.5" U-bend 3 $22 $10 http://www.ebay.com/itm/391102721435?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
3.0" U-bend 2 $15 $12 http://www.ebay.com/itm/180127979164?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
O2 Bung 1 $2 $2 http://www.ebay.com/itm/161818155108?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Turbo flange 1 $20 $0 http://www.ebay.com/itm/262044037508?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
SS tips (2) 1 $29 $0 http://www.ebay.com/itm/151791433391?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
Total = $244

Inspiration:
46720
Current result:
4672246723467264672846729

Video:
https://youtu.be/pXFrFskwdhA

[Hindsight]

Nice work!! Love the setup and good to see one routed this way. The way you did it unfortunately won't work for me due to the placement of my oil cooler (it would be in the way of the left lower pipe), but I've been thinking about figuring out if I could go with a high exit, around the same height as the muffler. I think though, due to the width of the muffler and bends coming off it, that the pipes would be on or too near the reverse lights.

Your setup looks great though!

[mikeb75]

that is cool! :cool:

[matteo92065]

nice work!

[STiPWRD]

Nice work!! Love the setup and good to see one routed this way. The way you did it unfortunately won't work for me due to the placement of my oil cooler (it would be in the way of the left lower pipe), but I've been thinking about figuring out if I could go with a high exit, around the same height as the muffler. I think though, due to the width of the muffler and bends coming off it, that the pipes would be on or too near the reverse lights.

Your setup looks great though!
Thanks, yea Sean Keehn is the only other person I've seen do a dual exhaust and he routed his output pipes up high:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?14108-818s-Build-Tri-cities-WA&p=193942&viewfull=1#post193942
I much prefer the lower exit like in Vman's design but the customization is the fun part. Also, I've got a modified trans linkage so the left-right cable will not interfere with the driver side pipe as possibly with the stock linkage.


that is cool! :cool:
Thanks!

Also, in the video, there is some rattling because the SS tips are just sitting on the ends of the pipes, I haven't secured them at all. Otherwise no rattles.

[Frank818]

Really nice! Mild steel, right?

[STiPWRD]

Really nice! Mild steel, right?

Yup

[Mechie3]

Nice, I like the exhaust.

[pikapp504]

Yeah, I really need to stop by one evening soon to take another look...maybe even a little ride. ;-) As always, if you want some company and/or a hand on things, I'm always down to wrench! My schedule has opened up, now that my tenant situation is coming to a resolution.

[STiPWRD]

Nice, I like the exhaust.

Yeah, I really need to stop by one evening soon to take another look...maybe even a little ride. ;-) As always, if you want some company and/or a hand on things, I'm always down to wrench! My schedule has opened up, now that my tenant situation is coming to a resolution.
Thanks guys. Jeremy, send me a text when you want to come by. This is the last week before daylight savings starts so rides would have to happen on weekends after that, otherwise I should be free any night this week.

[pikapp504]

Sounds like a plan! I'm usually off of work by 1630 at the latest...most days. lol

[STiPWRD]

I finally took the 818 off the jack stands and took it for a drive yesterday evening - the first time I've driven it this year! I've been doing a lot of work on the body and the many, many small details.
5879358794587955879658797

The doors were a huge pain. I put in fatmat on the inside and sprayed the edges with DEI rubberized spray.
58798

I also sprayed the inside of the side sails and rear bumper. I bonded in some studs for the mesh that will eventually go in there and some TC105's to attach the wiring.
5879958800

One of the other things I did was run 10 gauge wiring and a relay for the aeromotive fuel pump since it draws way more current than the stock fuel pump. After not running the engine for a while, I started it up last night and noticed I had a small fuel leak at some of the fuel line hose clamps. I tightened those up and that took care of the leak but since I'm now running the pump at 12V direct power, my AFR is really rich at idle (in the 10's). I'm guessing my stock fuel pressure regulator cannot keep up? Has anyone else had this problem? I temporarily switched back to the stock fuel controller and AFR's went back to normal. I guess I need a better regulator.

The to-do list is shrinking and there are only a few things left before the unthinkable - being able to register! The plates I have on in the pics are expired from an old car I had.

Things left:
Headlights
Trim engine lid and hood, fix gaps
Install quick latches on hood
Finish center console (reusing the one from my 02 wrx)
Install firewall behind seats for good
Splash guards
Adjust wiper arm to clear hood

[Hindsight]

Looking very nice! I really like the look of that DEI spray.... how much does one can cover and does it seem very sturdy once dried?

On the fuel pressure: it certainly sounds like that could be the issue since at idle, the fuel pressure regulator would have to work the hardest. It is especially telling that the issue goes away when you go back to using the voltage regulator. I never ran my car with the factory pressure regulator so I can't compare notes there. I am running a fuel-lab regulator and I love it. I'm going to try bypassing my voltage regulator like you did, in prep for a larger pump down the line, and in order to troubleshoot the fuel cut-out issue I was having on the track.

One tip on trimming the engine cover.... I was trying too hard to trim mine so the engine cover was flush with the side sails and that resulted in my taking them down too far. The most important thing to line-up is the engine cover to door. You can then trim increasing amounts off the engine cover returns as you move toward the rear of the cover so it sits flush with the side sail at about the 1/2 way or 2/3 point back.

Very excited to see this coming together! It is looking really nice and I love the attention to detail.

[Scargo]

I and most people I know who are not stock run the Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator (https://smile.amazon.com/Aeromotive-13109-A1000-6-Injected-Regulator/dp/B000CFSL1I/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1474377384&sr=1-1&keywords=Aeromotive+13109+A1000-6+Injected+Bypass+Regulator)and I use a fluid-filled pressure gauge (https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B004PQ1GH6/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) along with it. Fluid-filled so it doesn't beat itself to death. I suggest you not mount the regulator on the engine itself.
I set the pressure at 35 PSI at idle and it takes care of the rest.

[STiPWRD]

Looking very nice! I really like the look of that DEI spray.... how much does one can cover and does it seem very sturdy once dried?
Thanks for the kind words Jeff! I really like the DEI spray, it's fairly easy to put on and really improves the look of the inner fiberglass. I got the idea from metros. My advice is to buy a pack of 6 cans at a discount (got mine on ebay). So far I've used up 3.75 of those cans on the side sails, rear bumper and doors. I did a heavy first coat and light second coat. It feels quite durable but I haven't tried removing it or bonding anything to it - I made sure to bond the studs and wire tie-downs to the bare fiberglass and then spray with DEI. I masked the white gel coat from over spray. I still have to do the front fenders, hood and engine lids, so I might need to buy more later. On the engine lids, I'm probably going to do what I did for the doors - fatmat on the main surface and DEI spray at the edges. The fatmat has a reflective surface that should do well at shielding the fiberglass from heat.

Thanks for the trimming tips, I think I trimmed away too much of the lower part of the windshield frame thinking that the corners of the fenders would butt right up against it. What actually happened was that the back tips of the hood pushed the fenders apart making my trimming of the windshield frame unnecessary. I didn't realize the back of the hood was so wide.

[STiPWRD]

I and most people I know who are not stock run the Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator (https://smile.amazon.com/Aeromotive-13109-A1000-6-Injected-Regulator/dp/B000CFSL1I/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1474377384&sr=1-1&keywords=Aeromotive+13109+A1000-6+Injected+Bypass+Regulator)and I use a fluid-filled pressure gauge (https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B004PQ1GH6/ref=nav_timeline_asin?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1) along with it. Fluid-filled so it doesn't beat itself to death. I suggest you not mount the regulator on the engine itself.
I set the pressure at 35 PSI at idle and it takes care of the rest.
Thanks, that's the one I was looking at. I'm hoping this will save me lot of tuning headaches.

[mistasherm]

Very nice work - would also love to stop by and see your set up and your progress...I will PM

[ben1272]

Exceptional workmanship!


I finally took the 818 off the jack stands and took it for a drive yesterday evening - the first time I've driven it this year! I've been doing a lot of work on the body and the many, many small details.
5879358794587955879658797

The doors were a huge pain. I put in fatmat on the inside and sprayed the edges with DEI rubberized spray.
58798

I also sprayed the inside of the side sails and rear bumper. I bonded in some studs for the mesh that will eventually go in there and some TC105's to attach the wiring.
5879958800

One of the other things I did was run 10 gauge wiring and a relay for the aeromotive fuel pump since it draws way more current than the stock fuel pump. After not running the engine for a while, I started it up last night and noticed I had a small fuel leak at some of the fuel line hose clamps. I tightened those up and that took care of the leak but since I'm now running the pump at 12V direct power, my AFR is really rich at idle (in the 10's). I'm guessing my stock fuel pressure regulator cannot keep up? Has anyone else had this problem? I temporarily switched back to the stock fuel controller and AFR's went back to normal. I guess I need a better regulator.

The to-do list is shrinking and there are only a few things left before the unthinkable - being able to register! The plates I have on in the pics are expired from an old car I had.

Things left:
Headlights
Trim engine lid and hood, fix gaps
Install quick latches on hood
Finish center console (reusing the one from my 02 wrx)
Install firewall behind seats for good
Splash guards
Adjust wiper arm to clear hood

[QBlades]

Good Job! I am starting on the body of my car now. Let me know when you are in the Germantown area again.

[PSUalum1986]

Very nice. You have made a lot of progress over the summer.

[STiPWRD]

Exceptional workmanship!

Very nice. You have made a lot of progress over the summer.
Thanks guys!


Good Job! I am starting on the body of my car now. Let me know when you are in the Germantown area again.
Sounds good, will do and looking forward to seeing your build!

[Frank818]

Yes that is good job!

The DEI doesn't protect for heat? What's it's use then?

What is your alu bar on top the door with 3 velcros? How does it work?

[STiPWRD]

Yes that is good job!

The DEI doesn't protect for heat? What's it's use then?

What is your alu bar on top the door with 3 velcros? How does it work?
The DEI spray is more for sound deadening and vibration damping, at least that's my understanding. It also vastly improves the look of the inner fiberglass and makes it look more finished.

The aluminum bar at the top of the door is just a 90 degree extruded bracket I got from home depot. I didn't want any exposed screws near the top of the door panels so I decided to use 3M velcro instead. I riveted the aluminum brackets to the fiberglass and the tops of the door panels cover up the rivets, it worked out well. It probably also stiffens up the top of the doors. I had to bend the brackets inward into more of an acute angle (like maybe 80-85 degrees) to better fit behind the panels.

[metros]

If I remember correctly the dei spray can handle up to 300*.

Looking good! I want a ride when you get your plates.

[QBlades]

The DEI spray is a pretty cool idea. Has anyone thought of using a bed liner spray? There is a video of people spraying it on a watermelon and dropping it to show how it protects the watermelon. Do you think this would hold together fiberglass panel in case minor collisions? It will probably add some extra weight but as long you do not add as many layers as that watermelon, I am guessing it would help keep our fiberglass panels from like shattering and make it easier for us to repair
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RLpsIuhTb8k

[NBinSD]

I used a single layer of rolled on bedliner for the inside of the side sails and engine bay. It looks better than raw fiberglass but probably not as good as the DEI spray.

[wleehendrick]

I've been using a 3M rubberized spray for the outside of the Al panels and inside of the fiberglass for the same reasons... hope to dampen noise and definitely looks better than raw.

[STiPWRD]

Looking good! I want a ride when you get your plates.
Deal, or will it be you who registers first????


The DEI spray is a pretty cool idea. Has anyone thought of using a bed liner spray? There is a video of people spraying it on a watermelon and dropping it to show how it protects the watermelon. Do you think this would hold together fiberglass panel in case minor collisions? It will probably add some extra weight but as long you do not add as many layers as that watermelon, I am guessing it would help keep our fiberglass panels from like shattering and make it easier for us to repair
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RLpsIuhTb8k
That Linex stuff looks impressive from the video. I used bed liner spray on the under floor aluminum panels and planning to use something similar for the wheel wells. I feel it's more durable than the rubberized spray but also tends to be more expensive and heavier.

[STiPWRD]

Almost a year since my last post... nice. I took a little break from the 818 this past year to mix it up a bit and try something new. I ended up getting my motorcycle license last September and picking up a wrecked honda 750 for very cheap - I figured might as well try it while I'm young. It took me about 6 months to restore it and I've been riding it the past few months. It's been a fun and easy side project (compared to building a car), plus I got to learn about carbs. Here is a before and after:
7174371744

But now I'm fully refocused and ready to finish the 818. I've recently tackled the head lights:
7174571746

It took me quite a while to get these done, I spent hours trying to shape the buckets to the fiberglass with a heat gun. The two surfaces were just waaaay off as delivered. It was also challenging to drill the holes in the right places since there isn't much overlap between the cut-outs in the fiberglass and the flanges on the buckets. I drilled a few bad holes that I later had to patch with JB weld. I chose to use countersunk screws to attach the headlights to the FG with nuts that I JB welded in place on the back of the buckets.

A huge thanks to the forum for all of the tips people have posted. For instance, I used the metal retainer idea posted by Ben1272, which turned out awesome and way stronger than using silicone. There's a good bit of mass to those projectors. I also used the same LED bulbs that Frank posted - very nice. And the switchback LEDs that a few others have used. A big thanks to Art, who sent me electrical components and boards to build the switchback drivers, what a nice guy! They ended up working perfectly!
71747
To make the switchbacks serviceable, I connectorized them with the smallest connectors I could find (to be able to fit through the holes). I still have a little bit of wiring to finish with the Hi/Low beams; I had to add a relay to keep the low beams on when the hi beams are turned on.

Splash guards are next. So overall, things are moving along... slowly but surely.
71748

[AZPete]

It's good to see you are back at it. I'm also indebted to Art for switchbacks. I have heard that a short can make your horn sound off but I didn't realize it meant a short person.

[STiPWRD]

Thanks Pete, I can't wait to get it out on the road. Luckily my son loves cars as much as I do.

[Frank818]

1 year? Wow... now I understand why. It's really cool to see the engine on the bike! Nice restore. Hopefully you'll do the same on the 818 and seeing your nice switchback connectors it looks like yes. I decided to use simple bullet connectors cuz I don't have to play around with waterproof 3-way connectors, takes too much time and I wouldn't make it for this summer. However I may redo some of my connectors after inspection, during some winters...

[STiPWRD]

1 year? Wow... now I understand why. It's really cool to see the engine on the bike! Nice restore. Hopefully you'll do the same on the 818 and seeing your nice switchback connectors it looks like yes. I decided to use simple bullet connectors cuz I don't have to play around with waterproof 3-way connectors, takes too much time and I wouldn't make it for this summer. However I may redo some of my connectors after inspection, during some winters...
I'm going to try and seal off the head light area from water so hopefully these connectors will be ok. They're JST 2.5 SM-3 Pin and if you shave off the corners, they'll fit through a 10mm hole.

[STiPWRD]

I haven't posted in a while but I finally got plates 2 weeks ago and made the 30 mile round trip to Katie's cars and coffee this past weekend. I figured I might as well get some miles down before winter. Got to meet Kiwi Dave and his son Jack, which was fun! The car had a steady stream of people stopping by to figure out what it was. I kept telling them it was the new Miata.
114401114402

I'm still running on mostly a stock tune but with a reflash to account for the larger injectors. It's pretty drivable but I need to fix the idle because if the revs fall to fast it sometimes cannot recover and the engine stalls. It's funny when this happens coming to a red light because it gets super quite, just like an EV. I tried adjusting the idle tables to 1000 RPM but this didn't fix the issue. I might need to adjust fuel but just not sure yet how exactly - if anyone has any tips. I do have ab HKS BOV so this may be partially to blame.

Over the past year or two, I've spent a limited amount of hours each month trying to finish all the little details like the splash guards, bump steer kit, interior, etc. I spent some time building frame supports for a front tow hook that tie into the steering rack supports:
114403114404114405114406

114407114408

The interior is still a work in progress but is next on the to-do list
114409

[aquillen]

Looks super ! Thanks for showing the tow bar, something I've been mulling over.

[STiPWRD]

Thanks Art, by the way, your switchback turn signal circuits are working like a charm!

[longislandwrx]

congrats, looks like a nice driver

[fletch]

Started laughing at the switch labels on the dash... then thought, "maybe they're serious?"

[Frank818]

Nice pix! I couldn't not notice some details, like the same tow hook as I use, similar strengthening idea so it pulls the car and doesn't bend the 1/2 tube and that hole in the driver's rear splash guard to clear the coolant hose. :) Mine too makes a bump there but I was able to get away with just that.

[metros]

Looking good! Congrats on the first legal drive!

[STiPWRD]

Started laughing at the switch labels on the dash... then thought, "maybe they're serious?"
The fourth switch is for future use and isn't connected to anything. I had been watching a lot of fast and furious on tv so I thought I'd have some fun with it. It fooled a few people at the car meet ;)


Nice pix! I couldn't not notice some details, like the same tow hook as I use, similar strengthening idea so it pulls the car and doesn't bend the 1/2 tube and that hole in the driver's rear splash guard to clear the coolant hose. :) Mine too makes a bump there but I was able to get away with just that.
Thanks! The tow tubes are attached directly to the metal that protrudes under the steering rack so hopefully the 1/2 tubing holding the radiator takes very little load. I couldn't get away with putting that splash guard on without cutting that hole but I did go back and cover it with aluminum duct tape to seal off the dirt.


Looking good! Congrats on the first legal drive!
Thanks! I've gotta check out yours sometime and feel the power!

[STiPWRD]

Drove the 818 to work for the first time today! I couldn't be happier with this thing, it's still needs a lot of body work and a finished interior (and a tune!) but I'm glad I got it on the road and can enjoy it before the winter. 80 mph on the highway felt like nothing, it was very stable. Just cracked 100 miles on the odometer too. Here's the view from the office next to my co-worker's MR2.

115384115385

[DSR-3]

Congratulations on the firs commute! It really is a great feeling, isn't it? 'Great to look out and see the results of all the effort, and of course It's hard not to see "more to do's".
115394

That only downside is that at least in my case, work on the car went down significantly as driving went up- and that's OK. Have fun!

[AZPete]

That's one of the best pictures I've seen in quite a while. Looking out from your office saying, "I built that car!"
The feeling never stops.

[metros]

Another milestone! Enjoy!

[Frank818]

Whoa that is nice!! From the window, I envy you.

[STiPWRD]

137811

I finally had the 818 dyno tuned this past weekend with pretty good results. I had been driving it to work (and breaking in the new motor) the last few months and trying to really take it easy, even took it on a few date nights with the Mrs. I racked up about 800 miles. So on Saturday I took it up to TurboXS to get a speed density tune on an AP. It made 345 hp and 297 ft/lbs at 17 psi of boost. We were having a misfire issue during the runs that we couldn't quite nail down. It was basically causing some bumpiness in the power curve, this can be seen in the videos. We tried replacing the plugs, put in another set of used coils, replaced all of the fuel and added another ground wire to the engine. The misfire got better but didn't go away completely. We sort of ran out of quick ideas and had to call the session short. I'll have to fix the misfire and return to finish the tune. We weren't getting any knock though, so that's good.

I'm going to likely replace the engine wiring harness since it's relatively cheap and my current harness is from 2002. The connectors may be corroded and wiring could be brittle so I'll see if that helps. I could also get a set of performance coils and plugs. The tuner thought it was likely an ignition issue or a bad ground so I'll troubleshoot these things first. My fuel system is not likely causing the issue but that would be the next thing on the list to check. Open to suggestions here.

Now, on to the power. This thing pulls like a monster, it's borderline scary! The 18G turbo spools by about 4k RPM and pulls like a train to red line. It feels like a completely different car than the one I've been driving the last few years. I'm also relieved the engine I put together held up! There's still power on the table since we're only running at 17 psi but it feels plenty fast already.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z4cXPqSOraw

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sZ2QfwUUbk4

[Ajzride]

Sounds awesome.

[mikeb75]

Nice, congrats on the new engine build! Next time you're planning to be at TurboXS, send me a note. I'm about 10 minutes from there!

[pikapp504]

Thanks for the ride the other day, she definitely "gits down"! The misfire should be an "easy" fix and once it's ironed out, she's going to be singing!