Wiring Options

[FFRSpec72]

So been looking around at the various wiring options:


(1) Diet the stock harness - cost $0 (cost of donor harness, your time and frustration)
(2) Found services that diet the front and bulkhead harness and provide stand-alone engine harness with fuel pump and fan - cost $495-695 + shipping and about 2-3 weeks
(3) Custom harness (like used on sand rail) stand-alone with ECM (EMS, AEM and Motec depending on your need) engine harness with fuel pump and fan - cost $1500
(4) VCP R or S harness with ECM and lights (otions depend on R or S) - cost $2100/2150

Not sure which way I will go yet, still looking around, seems with option 2,3 or 4 I may still have to add a Painless 8/12 circuit harness @ $300-400, may have to do that with option 1 also depending on the diet chosen. Anyone come up with other options yet?


[michael everson]

If it was me, I would go with number 2 and then add a universal harness to handle everything else.
Mike

[wleehendrick]

(2) Found services that diet the front and bulkhead harness and provide stand-alone engine harness with fuel pump and fan - cost $495-695 + shipping and about 2-3 weeks

I'd be interested in that. You mind sharing the details of the service you found?

[Canadian818]

I've been reading on a number of systems and I'm really leaning towards the AEM Infinity series. I also really want a custom harness. I know Wayne can provide both, not sure how comparable the pricing is to the electromotive. I believe the AEM unit itself is cheaper, but there's always add-on sensors. I'm a few months away from needing it, I was hopefull that there would be a few more builds using aftermarket ECU's by then to compare.

[RM1SepEx]

you have to remember that the VCP option includes tuning capability that you would need to spend $650 on a COBB accessport or go to open source. Tuning is really a must have since we are modifying the intake and exhaust extensively

[iWire]

You can also look at cheaper options like OpenSource in which the cable is $260 if you want to tune yourself and the software is free. Many tuners will use it, but you'll need to ask.

As far as the options listed by the OP. I would strongly suggest the options that utilize the factory ECU. I don't want to ruffle any feathers here since I know there are proponents of aftermarket ECUs on this board, but I firmly believe nothing in the aftermarket can beat the reliability of the factory ECU. There is infinitely more R&D money put into them than anything in the aftermarket because of the rigorous requirements and varying conditions that a production car will see. Think about what Denso (MFG of the modern Subaru ECU and many other companies for that matter) has to contend with. The exact same ECU with the same rom data/tune is designed to last 20+ years for hundreds of thousands of miles and work in every climate and elevation found in North America. Yes, you lose out on some fine tune customization and peak performance aspects, but for most of the applications I've seen so far with more or less stock engine setups (maybe upgraded turbos, etc) the factory ECU can absolutely run them extremely well with the consistency and reliability you just can't find in the aftermarket. This is not to say that standalone ECUs don't have their place, because they do when it comes to serious race cars and highly customized setups.

The bottom line is that we all want to drive the snot out of our cars every time we turn the key and the factory ECU is the best way to do that.

[DodgyTim]

I'm not experienced with tuning the factory ECU, but have been recently experimenting with the combination of a Tactrix cable, and EcuFlash and RomRaider software.

For the price of the Tactrix cable, about $160, I can read/write to the factory ECU.
I had recurring engine codes, for stuck secondary air valves. This was easy to fix with the EcuFlash software.
Data logging with RomRaider is easy too.

It seems like the factory ECU will do everything I need it to, but the wiring diet will still be a pain in the.....

[FFRSpec72]

I would strongly suggest the options that utilize the factory ECU.

This is the route in my challenge car and it has been very reliable on the track (as far as wiring goes) as I want as reliable of an engine setup as I can, I don't need and DNFs due to mechanical issues. My daughter will be racing this car so need to make sure it's fairly stock setup

[metalmaker12]

You can also look at cheaper options like OpenSource in which the cable is $260 if you want to tune yourself and the software is free. Many tuners will use it, but you'll need to ask.

As far as the options listed by the OP. I would strongly suggest the options that utilize the factory ECU. I don't want to ruffle any feathers here since I know there are proponents of aftermarket ECUs on this board, but I firmly believe nothing in the aftermarket can beat the reliability of the factory ECU. There is infinitely more R&D money put into them than anything in the aftermarket because of the rigorous requirements and varying conditions that a production car will see. Think about what Denso (MFG of the modern Subaru ECU and many other companies for that matter) has to contend with. The exact same ECU with the same rom data/tune is designed to last 20+ years for hundreds of thousands of miles and work in every climate and elevation found in North America. Yes, you lose out on some fine tune customization and peak performance aspects, but for most of the applications I've seen so far with more or less stock engine setups (maybe upgraded turbos, etc) the factory ECU can absolutely run them extremely well with the consistency and reliability you just can't find in the aftermarket. This is not to say that standalone ECUs don't have their place, because they do when it comes to serious race cars and highly customized setups.

The bottom line is that we all want to drive the snot out of our cars every time we turn the key and the factory ECU is the best way to do that.

I totally agree man

[Wayne Presley]

I've been reading on a number of systems and I'm really leaning towards the AEM Infinity series. I also really want a custom harness. I know Wayne can provide both, not sure how comparable the pricing is to the electromotive. I believe the AEM unit itself is cheaper, but there's always add-on sensors. I'm a few months away from needing it, I was hopefull that there would be a few more builds using aftermarket ECU's by then to compare.


The AEM Infinity system is $1550 + $444 wiring harness, the Electromotive is $1249 + $99 wire harness, +160 crank trigger wheel kit, + 99 power harness/fuse block + crank pick up $119

[FFRSpec72]

I have decided to go down the route of #2 (Found services that diet the front and bulkhead harness and provide stand-alone engine harness with fuel pump and fan) with a slight twist as will have a body harness +engine harness to support the JDM engine and lights, and minor accessories I need in the R). I will report back how it goes.

[TrickyPete]

Who did you go through to diet your harness? I am having difficulties doing it myself and was weighing options. The route you want seems the most cost effective.



I have decided to go down the route of #2 (Found services that diet the front and bulkhead harness and provide stand-alone engine harness with fuel pump and fan) with a slight twist as will have a body harness +engine harness to support the JDM engine and lights, and minor accessories I need in the R). I will report back how it goes.

[C.Plavan]

Email Brian at iWire. Many of us have used him. He is great at making the harness the way you want. Plug and play.

http://www.iwireservices.com/

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?14114-iWire-Turn-Key-818-Harness-for-R-and-S-Models

[Mitch Wright]

Same decision here, went around and around with myself, I had planned to diet myself but work was taking up all my 818 time. Looked at options, talked to Wayne, Brian and a some other tuners with a great deal of Subaru experience. In the end I went with Iwire for my project. The plus is we do have really good options out there with 818 experience.

[TrickyPete]

Yeah the problem I'm running into right now is nickles and dimes. The issue is that I don't have the quarters and dolla' bills. If you catch my drift...


Same decision here, went around and around with myself, I had planned to diet myself but work was taking up all my 818 time. Looked at options, talked to Wayne, Brian and a some other tuners with a great deal of Subaru experience. In the end I went with Iwire for my project. The plus is we do have really good options out there with 818 experience.

[Wayne Presley]

AH, yes wiring. If you diet your own harness down, plan on spending a minimum of 40 hours to have it looking like Iwire does it. If you have the wire diagrams, if you hook up all the wires correctly.

[K3LAG]

AH, yes wiring. If you diet your own harness down, plan on spending a minimum of 40 hours to have it looking like Iwire does it. If you have the wire diagrams, if you hook up all the wires correctly.

40 hours, ha! It probably took me 80+. Of course, I took my time and it all worked the first time.

Larry

[Harley818]

Thats about right 40-50 hours. And mine worked first time after I grounded everything correctly. Still need to check front lights though.
I took it as a challenge! and to say I did it. Just don't try to do it in a hurry, and like everything else, put it down for a while then pick it up again.

[TrickyPete]

Good advice. I think I'm going to keep the dieting down to a minimum. I really don't want to cut out something I will later find out that I needed. I'm not going crazy trying to cut out every pound I can out of the equation so as long as it works and looks good I'll be happy :)

[TouchStone]

I am really disappointing by how FFR handled the wiring for the 818. I think they should at least have the option for a custom kit from painless wiring and detailed instructions on harvesting the donor connectors. I'm going to be dieting my harness to the same level as the iWire harness with the addition of ABS. I'm also running additional wiring for options I want to include later on like power windows/locks, sound system, HVAC, wipers ect. I'll be documenting the process and drawing new schematics that will be easy to read and tailored for an 818.

I started this process a few days ago, here is a sneak peek: https://docs.google.com/uc?authuser=0&id=0B-jItpDPS-QXakloMkZCY2VMNm8&export=download

[iWire]

I am really disappointing by how FFR handled the wiring for the 818. I think they should at least have the option for a custom kit from painless wiring and detailed instructions on harvesting the donor connectors. I'm going to be dieting my harness to the same level as the iWire harness with the addition of ABS. I'm also running additional wiring for options I want to include later on like power windows/locks, sound system, HVAC, wipers ect. I'll be documenting the process and drawing new schematics that will be easy to read and tailored for an 818.

I started this process a few days ago, here is a sneak peek: https://docs.google.com/uc?authuser=0&id=0B-jItpDPS-QXakloMkZCY2VMNm8&export=download

Definitely interested in seeing what you come up with TouchStone. I really applaud all those who decided to go on their own, it's no easy feat. Although you're life will be much easier if you just send it to us. :p

Maybe it's just semantics, but I want to clarify for people reading this. We are not "dieting" the harness. Yes, we use the ECU to engine section, however, this is a base to start a fresh build using new fuseboxes and some of the original plugs for end connections where necessary.

I've had the opportunity to take care of some customers who went through the process of dieting and shoving it in there and were not satisfied with the end result after spending approximately 40 hours to get it to this point. Dieting the harness is really half of the battle. The other half is then getting a harness designed for a front engine to fit in a rear engine car. What ends up happening is that most of the important plugs have to be extended and much of it loops back on itself multiple times. To TouchStones point, I really don't think the FF manual addresses this much at all. I'm not including those who spent serious time trying to smooth it out and clean it up. I've seen some pretty nice jobs done in this department, but as most said, they have spent upwards of 80 hours on the wiring alone.

Before we started over
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d123/keenerrs/490.b_zpsyruymaqs.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d123/keenerrs/490.c_zpsovtcuv8q.jpg
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d123/keenerrs/2014-11-21%2014.42.21_zpsqfpgrbqk.jpg

And just for fun the after of that same harness. For reference the center section in our harness 1/2 inch whereas the that big corrugated in the dieted harness is more than 2 inches in diameter.
http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d123/keenerrs/490.2_zpstidi4pm8.jpg

[TouchStone]

Sorry poor choice of words. I will not be dieting the harness, the work will be a complete redesign and rebuild. I do want to give it to iWire their final product looks awesome, but I've got too many other expensive things I need to buy! And the first time around will be very educational.

I'm pretty confident that I can handle this on my own, usually I'm designing the PCB layouts so this will be my first "macro" project. My only question is how to go about installing new wires into the donor connectors that need to be reused? The simplest way is to use butt connectors but this is not appealing to me especially on the ECM connector. I would prefer to get the correct pin crimp tool and pins used by Subaru. Does anyone know what they are?

[TouchStone]

BTW, my donor harness looks way worse that.

https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7592/16970183636_60b0fc1502_c.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/rRACn3)

[STiPWRD]

I'm pretty confident that I can handle this on my own, usually I'm designing the PCB layouts so this will be my first "macro" project. My only question is how to go about installing new wires into the donor connectors that need to be reused? The simplest way is to use butt connectors but this is not appealing to me especially on the ECM connector. I would prefer to get the correct pin crimp tool and pins used by Subaru. Does anyone know what they are?
It sounds like you have the right background to attempt the wiring. It took me 30 hours to do most of the dieting and will probably take a few more hours to fit it into the car. For me, the goal was just to clean things up and cutting down the weight (cut away 20 lbs of wire and wrapping) but you're taking on a bit more work by replacing all the wire and pins.

As it sits now
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