15th Anniversary MKIV build thread - TROJAN

[David Hodgkins]

My 818 funding hasn't materialized, but it looks like my itch to build again will be satiated another way...

My brother jumped on the 15th anniversary special 4 years ago and we had just started the build when life conspired to put it on an indefinite hold. The kit has been sitting in a storage facility ever since. Well, this last Saturday we cracked open the storage unit and took out the wheels so that we could get tires and restart the build! The car has most of the suspension hung already, except brakes and the steering shaft. So sometime this week we will get new tires and next weekend we will mount them and transfer the car to my house where I will begin the build process anew. At this point it looks like my roadster is going to go into semi-storage to make room for the build. I'll probably just put a tender on the battery and drive it a little every month or so until the new one is built. I STILL need to make a glove box and trans cover and will try to squeeze that in so I can show up at HB without having to say - once again - that it's 99% complete!

Unlike my build, in which at least half of my time was spent polishing panels, this build should proceed rapidly. We will see how much we can get done before HB this year with the overall goal to have it off to paint before year-end.

The only difficult part will be the wiring, as I used an I-Squared (ISIS) system last time and this time will use a more traditional Ron Francis setup.

I will be posting a ton of pics as usual and asking a ton of questions, again as usual. The plan for power is a FMS crate 427 Windsor with TKO 600 and one of the injected stack systems. I'm looking for recommendations for the stacks. The kit came with a 3link moser rear (with LSD) and as I said the suspension is already in.

I believe I have to mount the rotors in order to mount the wheels for transport, correct?

Anyway, wish us luck on our new build!

:)

[68GT500MAN]

Great news David. Yes mount the rotors to take up the space so that the lug nuts will hold the wheels in place.
Doug

[David Hodgkins]

Great news David. Yes mount the rotors to take up the space so that the lug nuts will hold the wheels in place.
Doug

Yep, that's what I thought. Thanks Doug. I should have the chassis in my garage this weekend!

:)

[QSL]

can't wait to see progress shots. If you need anything, don't hesitate to ask!

[David Hodgkins]

Actually Mike you can plan on it, starting with your engine configuration. Can you shoot me your # in a PM?

[2FAST4U]

Congrats!

[David Hodgkins]

Thanks Bill! The new build won't rise to the level of craftsmanship of your outstanding builds but I'll do my best!

:)

[David Hodgkins]

Tires have been ordered, but they are a week out. If anyone in So-Cal has a set of shop wheels I can borrow, I'd appreciate it! I only need them for the weekend to load and transfer the chassis down to my house.

:)

[MPTech]

17" wheels?
Just curious what tires you were able to find? I heard the Kumos' supply is not currently available.

Good luck on your build, looking forward to seeing your progress. Haven't seen too much status on the "Anniversary builds".
Lucky was the only other one I remember seeing posts.

[David Hodgkins]

We went with Nitto NT01's. 255 front and 315 rear. They may end up being our track tires. They are almost slicks! That doesn't really matter too much here in SoCal though; I don't think we're scheduled to have rain again until 2017...

:D

[QSL]

Dave put your roadster or mustang up on jacks and pull the wheels/tires to move the car out of storage. Probably faster then borrowing some.

[David Hodgkins]

Dave put your roadster or mustang up on jacks and pull the wheels/tires to move the car out of storage. Probably faster then borrowing some.

Dan (THE MAN) Zoil came through with a set I can use, which my brother is picking up today. Plus, My pin-drive wheels are 15" and I'm not positive they would clear the rotors...

:)

[David Hodgkins]

This weekend we played musical roadsters, taking the Mustang in to fix some welds that let go from a repair we did, moved my roadster into semi-storage and got the new roadster out of storage and down to my house so we can begin the build. Here's a few details (with pics of course) on how we spent our Saturday:

The first order of business was to rent the trailer and take the mustang in for repair. We had completely rebuilt the front end over the winter break and a couple of welds we did with the suspension let go (not enough penetration) Luckily, Grant was going very slow when it happened and pulled over right away. Here it is on the trailer:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=26468&d=1393258026

Grant had the burdensome task of following me in my roadster so that we wouldn't have to come back to load it on the trailer for the trip to my brother's place. Here he is, complete with the requisite tootsie pop in the mouth. It's a bummer driving around, fending off picture-takers and even being harassed by a homeless guy who chastised him for driving such a sweet ride. It was tough, but he managed:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=26469&d=1393258027

After we dropped off the Mustang and loaded up the Roadster, we headed up to LA to drop it off and headed over to a storage unit to pick up the Anni. car. Doug "THE MAN" Zoil lent us some shop wheels so we could roll the car onto the trailer. We made several rookie mistakes while getting the chassis ready for transport. The lug nuts were left at home and we couldn't locate the front spindle axle nuts so we spent 1-1/2 hrs hitting the local auto parts stores looking for replacements. We located lugnuts but couldn't find any axle bolts. grr. We still managed to get the chassis on the trailer, put the body on and were loading boxes when we found both the lug nuts and axle bolts! I put the axle bolts on and we were off.

We got back to my brother's place and dropped off the body, then drove back down to my place to unload the trailer. Here is how the chassis looks now, marking the start of our new build:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=26467&d=1393257958

That's chassis 2 of 15. I'll update the post in a bit with the actual chassis number. While going through inventory I ran across the FFR chassis plate which I'll post later. It's gold annodized to differentiate from the standard silver ones. The build has a bunch of special markings to indicate it's special status and I'll post pics of those as well. They're pretty cool!

:)

EDIT 11/23/2015: Looking back over this thread I want to add at this point in the build that you should check and lube all the suspension points. Doing so later in the build is much more of a hassle. Here's a link to a post much further along in the process where I do "then" what I should have done "now":
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13397-15th-Anniversary-MKIV-build-thread-New-Zirc-fitting-on-trailing-arms&p=219111#post219111

[David Hodgkins]

This past weekend we started into the build. The first order of business was to get it up on stands and then go over what had been done up to this point. We used some heavy duty jack stands and the lowest setting is beyond the reach of my floor jack. Because of the angle I was able to get the front set on but the rears wouldn't reach so I just jacked it up as high as it would go and then just wookie-lifted the frame while my brother and son set the jacks under it. I'm assuming I'll be able to lift the frame off later with the creative use of an engine hoist?

Once the frame was on stands we did a quick inspection. The front UCA's are different than what is currently shipping with the kit so I inquired with FFR to see if I should switch them out (they advised to run with what I have). The boots are toast, and the steering rack boot was cracked. I suggested we switch to a new power steering rack so the manual is coming out. The rear suspension has been hung but the brake caliper brackets are not installed so I'll crack the differential next week for that job.

Only the F panels were drilled, so we decided to start laying out the hole patterns for the rest of the panels. We have the FFMetal panels for the firewall, which include new driver's footbox panels, a new passenger f-panel and the hidden battery box. Additional aluminum will be needed for a trunk wall that will be a partition between a cockpit cubby and the trunk. This is a pretty simple mod on my car that I love. Having storage accessible from the cockpit is a definite plus.

Below are a few pics of the cockpit aluminum being fitted. The results this time were much better than my first roadster! All the edges fit together very nicely, with only minor trimming or modifications needed.

This closeup shows the minor mod needed to fit the bigger driver's footbox that comes with the FFMetal kit. I used a vice to flatten the tab on the floor. I'll bend the part going under the sheetmetal shown so that it attaches to the a-frame aluminum at the front of the center tunnel. Then I'll create a patch panel to cover the remaining small holes:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=26704&d=1393952491

The rest of these shot show how straight the panels are. They fit very nicely together!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=26710&d=1393952499

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=26706&d=1393952494

I only had to trim a little off of the inner FFMetal driver's footbox wall to create a perfect seam on the engine side:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=26707&d=1393952495

Notice that all the tabs are fitted on the interior of the cockpit? That's a nice detail that I like to see when the hood is open:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=26709&d=1393952498

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=26708&d=1393952496

Holes, holes, holes....

This shot shows that I attach the tunnel sides to the tunnel supports, but stop before I get to the bottom. The bottom holes are marked with clecos in this shot. The panel is offset from the support beams but you can get them to meet by pushing the panel towards the tunnel. not drilling all the way to the floor allows the panel to curve away and clear the weld at the bottom of the beam where it meets the 4" center tube. I ended up with a couple of holes in my center console on my first build because I drilled all the way to the floor. I hope that tip makes sense:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=26711&d=1393952500

After all the panels are fitted, they are coming off for silver powdercoat. The current plan is to engine-turn the firewall and polish/seal the trunk aluminum.

[MPTech]

Looks good!
Don't forget to add your access panel to the top of the DS FB. It will come in handy for access to you pedals connections on top.

My ball joint boots deteriorated before my first go-kart. Just replaced them last month.

[68GT500MAN]

Dave, when it comes time to lower the roadster onto its wheels/tires, use a block (or blocks) of wood to help fill the gap between your jack and the lifting point you are using (I use the pumpkin, but others will disagree with this). Then lower your jack stands, remove the wood and then jack enough to remove the stands and lower to the floor. More than one step but it works great fore me.
Doug

[David Hodgkins]

Quick update,

I was making good progress on the car last Saturday when I noticed that the 2' deep X 7' tall X 12' long hanging cabinets that are right next to the build were over 1" away from the wall on top. A quick investigation revealed that the melamine pieces of wood that the installer had used as structural support had failed on all 3 units! So starting Sunday morning I emptied all the cabinets, pulled them off the wall and replaced the pieces with 2" x 6"s. Here it is Tuesday and I'm still loading/purging all the crud that had accumulated over the past 15 years.

When I get back on track (hopefully tonight) I'll be drilling and fitting the last standard panel. I'm going to build a new extended passenger footbox this weekend and then send all the panels out to powdercoating next week. While they are gone the plan is to install the pedals, brake and fuel lines.

[David Hodgkins]

Time for an update...

All of the panels have been shipped out to powdercoating. Some of them have been polished and will receive a clear powdercoat finish. All of the trunk panels are polished as well as engine bay panels. The rest will be powdercoated silver.

This weekend was the most productive one I've had in a while. I ran all the brake hardlines, following the routes outlined in the manual. Using the FFR-designed route, I did all four corners with five(5) 60" lengths of 3/16 hardline. No cutting and flaring was required! Here are a bunch of pics showing the routing:

One thing to note: No where does the line actually touch the frame. I'm pretty proud of the nice tight corners and the spacing relative to the frame. I had a mental block on my first build and Good Guy Paul Mastroianni ended up running them during a build party. So this is technically the first brake lines I've run.

After the flex lines were affixed to the frame I attached a tee fitting to the left softline and ran the first hardline between the front wheels with the first length of 60" line.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=27907&d=1397487328

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=27904&d=1397487324

Next was running the 2nd 60" line line from the footbox to the tee at the front left wheel:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=27905&d=1397487325

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=27906&d=1397487327

Here's a shot of the footbox. The rear line is shown of the left master cylander (the one closest to the camera) and the front is on the right. The front line is routed out the top of the footbox and runs along the underside of the upper 3/4" frame tube to the front of the car.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=27908&d=1397487329

continued... :)

[David Hodgkins]

The 3rd 60" line (rear line) snakes down behind the throttle, goes out the bottom of the footbox next to the 4" tube and runs toward the rear. I used a junction to join the last supplied 60" line. It continues down the 4" tube and up the back of the 2x3 frame member and terminates at the tee attached to the left rear.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=27909&d=1397487330

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=27910&d=1397487331

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=27911&d=1397487332

I had to go out and get one last 60" length to do the last run. Since I am using a FFMetal battery box there is an additional cross member under the trunk that is not shown in these pics. The last line is routed along and will be attached to the edge of the cross member:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=27914&d=1397487335

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=27912&d=1397487333

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=27913&d=1397487334

I've ordered a master for the clutch and CNC reservoirs From Mike Forte and they will be here this weekend. By Saturday evening I should have working brakes on the car.

:)

[68GT500MAN]

Great progress on the build. Will your garage be open on the 25th for anyone interested to look?
Doug

[ehansen007]

Looking good man. There's nothing like the first one but the second is always better and more clean as a build.

[David Hodgkins]

Looking good man. There's nothing like the first one but the second is always better and more clean as a build.

Thanks buddy, although you are the KING of clean!


Great progress on the build. Will your garage be open on the 25th for anyone interested to look?
Doug

Sure will! As of now I'm still planning on bringing it to HB, along with my MKIII.

:)

[WIS89]

David-

Looks like a great start. I really like the silver powdercoated frame. Makes me wish I had held off and picked a different color.

Glad those shelves didn't come down around the car!

I look forward to following along.

Regards,

Steve

[David Hodgkins]

I've completed an update to the passenger footbox that is part of my brother's "Anni Build" (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13397-15th-Anniversary-MKIV-build-thread-4-years-late!). The box is designed for small blocks only and substantially increases it's size.

I started out based on the previously posted passenger footbox mod, but I made some changes to make it mimic the overall (square front) shape of a MKIV footbox. Also, the physical measurements of that box did not work for me so I started with the bottom, modified the top, then made new templates for the sides.

It fully encases the 1 1/2" round tube.

Here are a bunch of pics for your critique and comment:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=33333&d=1410146799

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=33335&d=1410146801

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=33342&d=1410146807

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=33340&d=1410146805

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=33334&d=1410146800

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=33337&d=1410146803

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=33345&d=1410146810

The footbox floors for both the driver and passenger have been remade with .100 metal instead of the supplied .040 and feel much more solid under your feet. You can see the thickness in the last shot above.

The top, front and inside wall are currently being polished. I'll post new pics when they are done.

[MPTech]

David, I did the PS FB mod on my MK4 and REALLY like it. Actually, my passengers really like it, but they don't know it! ;)
But I like your mod even better with the flat top. My box has the angled corner and while this is good, the flat top would have been better and probably easier (just double check clearance with the body side vents, I know it's close!)
I mounted my ECU and Cobra Earl's vent gate to the top of the footbox and had to do a lot of customization and fitting to get them to fit well, a flat top FB would have made that job MUCH easier.

btw, your brakelines look super-clean! I visited a Kit Car club 2 months ago and was showing my build to one of the members. He complimented me a couple times on how great my brakelines looked. Don't get many non-FFR builders observing that, so it was more rewarding that he recognized the work and planning that went into laying them out.
Yours have the run in the front, low across the main chassis brace, I did that too and prefer that to the running them across the x-member. Not right or wrong, just prefer it.

Kudos on the build, looks great!

[David Hodgkins]

Thanks man! The best thing about the routing I did is the fact that I didn't have to do any cutting or flaring like I did with my first build. Five 60" lines, and that's it.

I have some higher res shots that show off the fuel lines bends better that I'll be posting soon. The trunk aluminum is in and some other progress has been made; just need to upload more pics before posting.

:)

[MPTech]

I'm waiting to see that turned dash too.
Love the look, but be careful, a little goes a long way.
Don't over-do it. A couple dash accents and a firewall is enough. (this is just my opinion, but I think it's better to keep them wanting more):D

It's like Jewels (or chrome) a couple items are better than too many. (kills me when I look in an engine compartment and see EVERYTHING chromed!)

[David Hodgkins]

Yeah, I know what you mean. The Firewall will be on this car and the dash is slated for mine, unless it looks TOO "blingy".

The bezel I created in another thread (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?15626-My-Gauge-Bezel-(Fun-with-Engine-Turning)) looks GREAT on a black dash! A little goes a long way indeed!

:)

[riptide motorsport]

Love the look of a turned dash. Should look great. Nice work by the way, very nice

[David Hodgkins]

EDIT: I showed how I engine turned the firewall in a separate thread. You can read about it HERE (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?15921-I-engine-turned-my-firewall-and-here-s-how-I-did-it).

I spent the weekend working on the build! I've been doing mods in the engine bay for what seems like FOREVER, but today I finally reached the stage where I could put panels on the car permanently.

I've been dealing with a steep learning curve with the sharkhide. My first attempts were terrible, and I'm going to have to work on fixing many of the panels over time. I had several panels that came out really bad, including the firewall. I had to immediately rub it out with acetone to try and save it. The current finished result is a solid 6 or 7 out of 10. By the time I got to the passenger footbox, results were looking much better, but even those panels have flaws. Oh well, for better or worse, I'm pressing forward.

Pictures tell the story the best, so here ya go. Here's where I was at the beginning of the day today:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=34840&d=1413771591

Panels, Panels Panels...
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=34841&d=1413771592

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=34837&d=1413771588

FINALLY, putting the firewall in!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=34842&d=1413771593

Now the "glamour" shots:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=34847&d=1413771598

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=34843&d=1413771594

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=34845&d=1413771596

[Carlos C]

David:

Those panels look beautiful! Great job. Just be careful while dropping in the drivetrain.

Carlos

[David Hodgkins]

Thanks Carlos!

Heavy moving mats all set; still a lot of wiring to do first...

:)

[David Hodgkins]

While I've been waiting for the motor to come I've been busy rebuilding the Mustang (again):
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=37132&d=1420244846

It kissed a pole after spinning on wet pavement. It's now back to being mechanically sound although it's uglier than ever.

Just now I got an email from Mike Fortes:

Woot woot!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=37357&d=1420575856

Can't wait for him to dress it and dyno! Looks like I'm going to be REAL BUSY SOON!!

:)

[Ray W.]

I'm looking forward to seeing pics of that engine, David! That engine compartment aluminum looks great. I can only imagine how many hours of work went into that.

[David Hodgkins]

I'm looking forward to seeing pics of that engine, David! That engine compartment aluminum looks great. I can only imagine how many hours of work went into that.

I did the same treatment to my roadster when I built it. The polishing took as long as the rest of the build! (Seriously)

This time, I sucked it up and had them done by professional polishers. Everything except the passenger footbox was done by a big outfit at an average of $100/panel. YIKES! then, they were off to the powder coaters. All the polished panels are powder coated on the other side.

The passenger footbox was done at a small hotrod shop in Santa Ana. ~150 for all 3 panels. Lesson learned!

:)

[David Hodgkins]

It's been a while so here's an update:

We have purchased a turn-key Ford BOSS 302 from Mike Forte! It has a Holley HP Multi port EFI setup. Quiktime bellhousing and TKO600 with mid-shift. It should Dyno later this week.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=38742&d=1423839409

We also just moved into our own little Race shop! It's really small but we have hooked up a nice compressor and a new 4-post lift is on it's way.. I've moved all my tools over And the chassis was moved last weekend:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39047&d=1424809060

:)

[QSL]

great to see your progress. Love the firewall!!!

Congrats on the new shop. That ROCKS!!!

[David Hodgkins]

Thanks Mike! I followed your lead in getting a 4-post lift as well. Pretty excited about that, and the big compressor I'm running lines for too. Might even paint the project mustang!

:)

[QSL]

Well, its going to be just about the best money you have spent for the project. Really, I kick myself for not buying one earlier.

[68GT500MAN]

David, Did you move your engine turning equipment into the new shop? That space looks great.
Doug

[David Hodgkins]

David, Did you move your engine turning equipment into the new shop? That space looks great.
Doug

Yes I did. I have a few panels to make some bezels and what-not. I forgot; what were you looking for?

:)

[QSL]

Will this be at HB this year?

[Ray W.]

That engine is a thing of beauty!

[David Hodgkins]

Will this be at HB this year?

Yup...

What. You Worried? ;)

:)

[QSL]

me? worried no way! You are an official of the event. You winning would stink of conspiracy. Would be like Dave smith winning. There would need to be re counts done and I don't even want to mention the riots. Sure, the riots would consist of only Julie, but still. She can be a mean little red head.

[David Hodgkins]

Mike, I won't be eligible because 'll probably end up being a judge but that doesn't mean I won't be showing off the build!

To whit; here's a shot from Mike Forte building the engine on the dyno. I'm hoping it will ship this week! Ain't she purdy?:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39302&d=1425417057

The lift is coming soon so time to start building! Carpe diem!

:)

[QSL]

Oh, well, have i ever told you how cool you are and how much I respect you. :cool:

[David Hodgkins]

Oh, well, have i ever told you how cool you are and how much I respect you. :cool:

Dude, you can't openly bribe me in a thread.

That's what PM's are for.

:D

[QSL]

Cool $5.00 may just make its way into your paypal account.

[frankeeski]

Cool $5.00 may just make its way into your paypal account.

Too late Mike, I already took care of "gifts" for David, Karen and Miller. That trophy is mine!

[QSL]

Thats not fair frank. You should be disqualified for best in progress, you have had 12 years to perfect it. LOL

[David Hodgkins]

Who ARE you people!??

:)

[David Hodgkins]

The motor arrives today!

I've been working on setting up our new little shop and have been installing a new 4 post lift. Here's a pic of the powere poll with the air lines in. Looks like I'll need to replace the feeder with one a few inches longer:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39710&d=1426865269

This pic shows the scissor lift under the chassis so we can lift the wheels off the rails, No more jack stands!:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39711&d=1426865270

And here's a shot of how it sits today, Waiting for the NEW (374 HP) BOSS 302 motor to arrive:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39712&d=1426865271

I'm telling you, this shop is dinkey! I don't want to put the engine pallet there, but it looks like I have no choice. I guess we'll find out later today!

:)

[68GT500MAN]

You are right, the space is too small, I will be right down to pick it up and get it out of your way!
Doug

[David Hodgkins]

Doug, sorry; the motor is already in!

The motor arrived Friday afternoon, 3/20:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39809&d=1427121541

We didn't waste any time getting to work unpacking and in short order we got our first peek:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39810&d=1427121541

I decided to keep the box so I could put those big Ford Racing logos on the wall of the shop. We continued to inventory and found out we were missing a few small things. Even though it was going into the weekend Mike Forte was on the case and a small care package was sent out Saturday morning so I would have it Monday or Tuesday.
As soon as the motor was unpacked we started prepping the motor to drop in "as a mockup" so I could start working on electrical. I pulled up the Holley EFI and stuck a lifting plate on:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39811&d=1427121542

And started mounting the Headers. Then we took time out for a few more glamour shots:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39816&d=1427121547

Here's a cool shot before we dropped in the motor:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39815&d=1427121546

Without any further ado we pulled out the ol' engine hoist and dropped that sucker into it's new home:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39821&d=1427121552

cont...

:)

[David Hodgkins]

I ran into my first "issue" after the motor was in. The header is physically hitting the engine mount. How do I fix this?
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39818&d=1427121548

I also noticed that even with the trans mount on, the rear of the trans is hitting the 4" cross member. A quick call to Mike ensued and he said a 3/4" spacer is needed to level the motor/ I'm hoping it will pull the back of the oil pan and bellhousing above the frame rails:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39822&d=1427121552

I wasn't able to clear the oil filter so an oil relocation kit was ordered. The FFR one was deemed not worthy...

The hydraulic slave was mounted. This is another fine piece from Fortes:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39825&d=1427121555

While I was under the car I noticed I had missed some riveting of the front of the pedal box so I got to test out the new scissor lift to lift the front of the chassis so I could get a drill in there:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39822&d=1427121552

I could never get shots like this before!:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39826&d=1427121556

Here's a few more shots I took before wrapping up the weekend. MAJOR wiring project is next, after I fix the header issue:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39830&d=1427121561

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39831&d=1427121562

[MPTech]

That looks great in there David. The silver powdercoat and that turned firewall really set it off nicely! :cool: (still amazed at that firewall and the polished stripes, COOL touch!)

Keep up the great work! It's going to be a Stunner!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Let me guess David...Ford Racing shorties? When they're turned around backwards like they have to be on the FFR they don't play nice with the passenger side motor mount. BBK shorties fit without interference.

Ford Racing on the top, BBK below:

http://www.mycoupe.ca/modules/wordpress/images/20070723_1.jpg

And installed:

http://www.mycoupe.ca/modules/wordpress/images/20070723_2.jpg

http://www.mycoupe.ca/modules/wordpress/images/20070723_3.jpg

Short of replacing what you have I'm afraid your only option is to cut/grind the mount &/or dimple the header tube.

Good luck,
Jeff

[David Hodgkins]

Jeff, that's unfortunate, but good that there is an alternative to whacking the headers with a BFH...

:)

[David Hodgkins]

Jeff, thanks for your help. The BBK 15150 Ceramic coated 302 shorty headers were ordered today.

:)

[Ray W.]

I had the same clearance problem with the JBA headers I put on my 4.6. As far as I know, the only solution was to cut the riveted tab off of the motor mount and weld the joint solid, so that's what I did. I had to do both sides that way, and still had to slightly dimple one header tube on the drivers side to clear the rear rounded corner of the motor mount perch. For me, the BBK shortys wouldn't work at all-had to send them back. Kudos to Jeff for helping all of us with his vast knowledge. I wish he had more experience with 4.6 engines in these cars. :)

[Jeff Kleiner]

That should solve it David!

Thanks for the vote of confidence and kind words Ray! One of these days I'll build a 4.6 car. I keep threatening to do a 4.6, automatic, A/C, IRS, undercar exhaust one for my wife (she's already chosen the color) but have had a steady stream of customer ones filling the garage. My buddy Ron E. (FFinisher, aka RE63) is the mod motor and Coyote guru.

Cheers,
Jeff

[David Hodgkins]

I got the back-ordered clutch fork from Mike Forte and installed it last night. It's the real deal:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39936&d=1427377190

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39937&d=1427377191

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39938&d=1427377191

The only real thing to note here is how high I have to set the adjustable pivot ball. It's this thing, that screws into the bellhousing and gets captured with a nut:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39935&d=1427377189

In order to get the fork to the position below I had to set the pivot ball way out close to the clutch. How does this position look?

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=39939&d=1427377192

:)

[ehansen007]

Thinking about that clutch setup myself. Looks pretty good. Does it come with the master cylinder too?

[David Hodgkins]

Thinking about that clutch setup myself. Looks pretty good. Does it come with the master cylinder too?

The clutch, master cylinder and slave were all purchased from Fortes.

:)

[68GT500MAN]

That looks good. Even a pretty clutch!
Doug

[David Hodgkins]

Thanks Doug. Pink's the new orange.

So time for another update. I received some trans mount spacers and a De-gas tank from Mike Forte:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40127&d=1427898924

So I was able to finish the clutch setup and mounted the trans support to check the trans height. I have to say, Mike's hydraulic clutch is a great product. I already have an earlier version of it on my roadster and on this build he added a braided flex line in the kit that goes all the way from the clutch to the master cylinder, completely eliminating the need for a hard line. So the whole setup is truly a bolt-on affair:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40128&d=1427898925

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40129&d=1427898926

The trans spacers are nice too. On my first build I just drilled holes in some think aluminum but this gives a very finished look (although no one will ever see them!).

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40130&d=1427898926

This is the position of the trans over the 4" cross tube:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40131&d=1427898927

Seems like a good position. The mid shift is definitely going to hit the cross member on top though. It'll be a real bummer if I have to cut and re-weld that tube. I can't match the powder coat with any paint I know of. I don't know why FFR still has that cross member there, when it can easily be move 1/2" to the rear. :rolleyes:

:)

[David Hodgkins]

It's been over a week since my last update but I've been working on the car every day.

Let's see... This week I started mocking up the throttle linkage provided by Mike Forte, pulled the upper steering shaft and cut off the tapered top in preparation for welding on the quick release steering wheel, built a steering wheel by adding the quick release hub from Breeze automotive, replaced the FMS shorty headers with BBK shorties, finished the fuel hard line install and made a bracket for the fuel pressure regulator(FPR). Here are the details:

The FMS shorty headers have interferance issues with the motor mounts supplied by FFR so some BBK units were ordered. When they arrived I took this shot of the passenger side headers so show the difference:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40335&d=1428511631

With the FMS piece it's the #4 cylander that has the issue. The BBK addresses this with a few more strategic bends so that the pipe is tucked into the header a lot closer. I don't believe this is an issue with the mustang convertible motor mounts I purchased from Levy Racing for my first build but they simply don't work with the FFR supplied mounts. The new units are nice, and made in the USA so I have no reservations about making the swap.

Last week I had AN6 bungs welded to hard lines that were going to run into the engine bay from under the car. The hard lines that ship with the kit are smaller pieces, not the long coiled lines that used to ship with the kit. It's impossible to route from the tank to the engine bay in one shot so my first leg of the routing goes from the fuel tank and terminates under the passenger footbox. On Good Friday I had a vacation day to spend working on the car so the plan was to attach a short hard line to extend the hard line into the engine bay and then switch to braided steel soft lines that connect to the fuel rail and FPR. But when I was bending the larger feed line around the 2" round tube at the front of the foot box I kinked the line! Grrr. So while contemplating redoing the line I noticed that the braided lines supplied with the motor are long enough to go from the motor to the existing hard lines. When I received the motor from Mike, these soft lines were attached to the FPR, which was mounted to the back of the motor. Now, I KNEW I had to find a new home for it, but got ahead of myself (again) and cut the braided fuel line while mocking up the connections to the existing hard line! SO a new braided steel line was ordered from Summit and the fuel plumbing project was put on the back burner for a few days. In the mean time, I had to create a bracket to hold the FPR. We have a small outboard boat company next to us at the shop and they are always discarding scrap metal. I dug a steel bracket out of their scrap pile which was perfect except for a 90 degree angle which I would have to straighten. I hit it with heat and straightened it out in my vice. It actually came out pretty good so the plan now is to polish it up and engine turn it. From scrap metal to blingy bracket. Nice:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40339&d=1428511634


On to something else, and I decided to start building the steering wheel. I say building because the kit that Breeze supplies requires you to drill and tap the hub that the wheel mounts to, and to weld the quick release ribbed inner sleeve to the top of the upper steering shaft, after cutting off the last ~1" that is tapered. Here's the shaft after I cut off the end:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40375&d=1428590007

And here is the new piece that needs to be welded:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40376&d=1428590007


I have two steering wheels for the car, the wood one and the leather one. So I set about building those and actually completed the leather one but as I was tapping the second hub I dropped the tap and broke the tap handle! GRR AGAIN!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40140&d=1427898935

Since my backup handle was at home I again was forced to abandon this project as well for the day. As I said though, I did manage to complete one wheel before I broke the tap handle:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40146&d=1427898941
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40144&d=1427898939

continued...

[David Hodgkins]

A few days later the new braided fuel line arrived and I was able to finish the install. Here are a few pics showing the loop from the engine compartment to under the car and the connection to the hard lines. In this first shot, the actual lines are on the right, with their reflection off the passenger foot box on the left:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40344&d=1428511639

And the hard/soft line connection:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40343&d=1428511638

Also this week I started mocking up the throttle linkage. Drilling through the firewall was stressful!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40364&d=1428589997

After the first hole was set up I took the firewall out so that I could line up the second hole, which will be inside the driver's footbox. This was much easier than trying to line up the holes while it was mounted:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40367&d=1428590000
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40368&d=1428590001

This is what the linkage looks like now. I'm planning to finish the setup today. I just hope I don't mess upi drilling the hole through the driver's footbox panel!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40373&d=1428590005
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40372&d=1428590004

I need to find some nice stainless washers to replace these generic ones. Does anyone have a suggestion?

I'm going to continue to thrash until HB with the goal of being able to drive the go-cart on and off the trailer. My wife is certain I won't make it!

[Ray W.]

Very Impressive! I really like the idea of being able to choose which steering wheel to use depending on your mood or the task at hand, whether it be an autocross course or an evening cruise on one of those perfect weather days when you want to wax nostalgic about the "good old days". I'm putting my envy aside and sticking with the wood wheel. It really works with the reproduction 67-68 Mustang auto shifter I'm in the process of installing. :)

[David Hodgkins]

Horrible news. The throttle linkage as installed is too high. I need to re-drill the holes. I'm only going down as far as I can and still hide the hole behind the washer. If this doesn't work, the firewall will be scrapped...

:(

[carlewms]

I am getting ready to do set up the mechanical linkage ... why did it come out too high?

BTW I feel for you ... that firewall is truly a work of art and it would be a shame to have to restart with a new piece.

Carl

[Ray W.]

I really hope you can make it work and save that firewall! When I was laying mine out, I made the aluminum actuator arms with the same distance between the shaft and the rod end hole as was between the butterfly shaft on the carb and where the rod end attaches to it. If my memory serves me correctly, my carb lever moves a distance of 2 1/2" from idle to WOT, so my arms will move the same amount front to back during WOT. My accelerator, however, is at a slightly different ratio. It moves about 2 15/16" from idle to WOT. I wanted more movement for easier throttle modulation. For comparisons sake, on my GMC Envoy, the accelerator pedal only moves 2" from idle to WOT. I was surprised when I measured it, though I shouldn't be. That SUV has always been hard to keep at a stable speed without putting it on cruise control, even though it's kind of flat here in the low country.

Judging from the pictures, it looks like the actuator arms on the Forte linkage have more distance between the shaft and rod end attachment point than I put on mine. If so, your shaft placement will be more critical than mine-to make sure you have plenty of clearance inside the foot box. (arm end to top aluminum) It also looks like there is some extra material past the rod end. You could easily remove that from the arm that goes inside the foot box. (where no one would ever see it) I would explore that avenue if moving the shaft down the amount you're planning doesn't quite give you the clearance you need.

(EDIT) I just went to the Forte website and saw that the actuator arms are adjustable for the ratio. You may not be able to remove as much material from the top as I first thought… I really hope you don't need to in order to save that panel.




Horrible news. The throttle linkage as installed is too high. I need to re-drill the holes. I'm only going down as far as I can and still hide the hole behind the washer. If this doesn't work, the firewall will be scrapped...

:(

[WIS89]

Dave-

Don't worry about the firewall. If you need to drill past the coverage of the washer, just fabricate a small cover out of metal. What I would envision is a large center circle like the washer, with a round extension on either end. Like a figure eight with a big center circle. I think it could easily look like a piece that was designed to fit there. No way I would get rid of the beautiful firewall! I wish I could include a picture of what I have in my head, and can probably figure out a way if you need me to, but I suspect you can design something far better than I could.

In any event, keep up the awesome and enviable work!!

Regards,

Steve

[David Hodgkins]

I was able to save the firewall!

After the first attempt, i took it all apart again to re-drill the holes and shorten the linkages. Shortening the linkages was the easy part; just cut, redrill and tap:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40576&d=1428931462

Then I drilled new holes in the firewall, this time with a slightly smaller bit and kept them within the washer footprint. The holes were not quite square the first time so I fixed that as well.:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40577&d=1428931463

These next two shots are kind of blurry but you can see how the link rods line up with the footbbox frame rail and fuel rail. If you look closely you can also see how I bent my Russ Thompson throttle to work better with the ol' size 16's...:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40580&d=1428931465

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40579&d=1428931464

This next shot shows a couple of things. The washer had to be trimmed to clear the inner footbox wall; the hole and grommet alignment came out really nice and the brass fitting I hacked to create a clamp for the rod to keep it from sliding horizontally. I also trimmed the excess pivot rod the give the whole assembly a more finished look:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40581&d=1428931466

I spent the rest of the weekend laying out the wiring harnesses in the engine bay an took the cockpit aluminum out one last time so I can drill for new wire retaining clips.

This week will be all about wiring, which I severely suck at. Lots of questions to follow, so I hope you like wiring questions!

:)

[Ray W.]

I'm glad you were able to save it!

[David Hodgkins]

Thanks Ray!

I worked on it again last night. Sorry, no pics today...
I sorted out the wiring, drilled and clecko'd the harnesses running through the trans tunnel and cut the ends off the solenoid harness so it could be extended to the solenoid on the starter, eliminating the remote solenoid. I've also decided (for now) to run the main battery lead directly to the solenoid and not into the cockpit to a "power bar". I still need to tie the engine harness into the main harness, but I did run the main engine harness power wires directly to the battery, as directed in the Holley HP EFI instructions. Lastly, I measured for the power steering hoses which will be manufactured today. I decided to try braided lines for this, and they should look good along side the remote oil filter braided lines.

:)

[David Hodgkins]

I went to the local hose shop to get the steering hose made and bought some new cables and connectors to extend the wiring harness this AM during an early lunch break. Theoretically, could I only be a few days away from hooking up the rad and going for FIRST START?!?

:)

[David Hodgkins]

Today is the 17th and my HB pre-party is ONE WEEK AWAY! ACK!

The past few days has all been about wiring, and I also finished up the power steering hookups. Here are some shots of the steering hoses. Comments welcome. They ended up being a real tight fit! Techically they don't touch anywhere but the tolerances are too tight for comfort:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40673&d=1429218895
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40676&d=1429218898
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40681&d=1429218904
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40701&d=1429218930

On a side note, a buddy came over to use my lift and I got a chance to take a few shots outside. I kind of like this naked look. I might keep the panels off for HB to show off the brake hard line install and other normally-not-seen details:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40683&d=1429218906
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40685&d=1429218908

:)

continued...

[David Hodgkins]

After I got the roadster back in the garage it was on to wiring. I hadn't drilled any holes in the trans tunnel for wiring but using the lift to attack it from below helped greatly! Man, having a lift is night-and-day better for building!

One un-related note: I don't think I have any choice... Looks like the cross bar MUST come out for the midshift... Why the heck FFR hasn't moved this over the years is beyond me:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40687&d=1429218911

Here's a shot of the finished Forte Hydraulic clutch install. The braided steel line just needed 2 clamp installs and goes from the master to the slave in one shot. EASY-PEASY!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40692&d=1429218917

OK, on to wiring. Because, you know, I LOVE wiring. :/

The Holley HP EFI instructions say that the ECU harnes power wires MUST USE THE BATTERY TERMINALS. So I routed the loom to the rear battery box. It's the loom on the right. I left it there because I didn't want another loom anywhere near the top if the Diff. I also noticed that the rear harness would route better if it was captured with the battery cable, so I drilled out the clamp and redid it. Look at the difference in the photos. I think it's much cleaner now:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40697&d=1429218924

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40698&d=1429218926

I then moved forward to the engine bay to start routing and securing the main harness, the engine harness, and I also broke out the gauges so I could plug in all the sensors and run their harnesses. Well, maybe not ALL the gauges. The 15th anniversary gauges came with a clock instead of the oil temp gauge. No no no, that won't do. I just ordered the oil temp gauge and probe from FFR. I hope it makes it here before HB!

Anyway, I removed the firewall one last time so I could have unfettered access to drill holes:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40702&d=1429218931

As I went along, I routed everything I could through the hollow space under the intake. The top and front of the engine are almost devoid of visible wires, but the rear still looks like spaghetti! Yuk:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40703&d=1429218934

:)
continued...

[David Hodgkins]

I still have work to do to clean up the wiring in the rear of the engine, but I did manage to hook up the TPS through a side hole in the intake, and the wide band, intake temp, Alt, oil Pressure and water temp wires are all hidden:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40706&d=1429218939

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40736&d=1429278480

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40737&d=1429278482

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40738&d=1429278483


Here's a shot of the oil pressure sender. I had to add a 45 degree fitting so it would clear the remote oil filter:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40743&d=1429278488

I then worked on mounting the coil to the driver's f-panel. I'll show that work in the next post.

:)
continued...

[David Hodgkins]

I had to set up the coil on the car since the f-panel is mounted. First I drilled the lower corners and the when to work with the dremel:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40728&d=1429278466

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40727&d=1429278464

After some filing to clean up the cuts a bit, i placed the coil in the f-panel and used it as a template to mark for the mounting holes. then I drilled them out:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40729&d=1429278466

Then I found some extra screws in the ol' bolt can and mounted that sucker!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40742&d=1429278487

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40734&d=1429278472

Easy-peasy!

:)

PS today was all about wiring. Tomorrow I have to mount the remote oil filter and hang the radiator.

THEN, LADIES AND GENTS, I'M ADDING FLUIDS!
IS TOMORROW THE FIRST START?!?

[frankeeski]

Great work as always D. It was wonderful talking to you today.

[jayguy]

Let's get the chant going. First Start! First Start! First Start!

[David Hodgkins]

Great work as always D. It was wonderful talking to you today.
Thanks as always for your help and guidance Frank! You are always generous with your time for others!


Let's get the chant going. First Start! First Start! First Start!
FIRST START FIRST START FIRST START

Is today the day?!?

:)

[David Hodgkins]

Well, you'd think if I had all day I could set up the oil filter relocation and hang the radiator.

NOPE...

I had issues with lack of hardware, and the bracket for the oil filter took longer than expected, with several jaunts to the hardware store thrown in. Here are some shots of the weekend's work:

Starter wiring:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40798&d=1429536818

I added the +voltage from the EFI harness and the voltage gauge to the main pole. Is this OK?

For the oil filter bracket, I came up with this. I drilled and tapped the X-tube and counter sunk the bolts in the bracket so the filter could be mounted flush to the bracket. It's not holding very much weight and seems real solid. The oil filter is up fairly high and I figure if something strikes it hard enough to break those bolt loose I might have bigger problems going on at that moment:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40801&d=1429536821

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40802&d=1429536821

This is the bracket installed. I will be redoing it though because the scrap metal I used wasn't wide enough to match the filter bracket. Functionally though, it works...:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40804&d=1429536823

Here's the filter installed. I put some electrical tape on the aluminum AN fittings so that they wouldn't get scratched during install. VERY clean, if I do say so myself...
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40805&d=1429536824

Then I installed the rad shroud:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40806&d=1429536825

I used button head stainless screws for the shroud. I'll be using similar ones to hang the rad itself, and will add rubber washers for insulation and dampening. I've had a similar setup on my roadster for years now with no issues...
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40807&d=1429536826

Silly me. I took the time to go get a fire extinguisher because , you know, I was going to start it Sunday. Jeesh. I didn't even get to fluids...

[David Hodgkins]

I feel like I'm building in a vacuum. Is anybody out there?

Today was all about finishing up the Radiator install. As with my first build, I utilized a few key Breeze Automotive components. The lower Rad support, Lower Rad Clamp and upper Rad hose are quality pieces that make for a really clean engine bay and I'm really happy to recommend them. The upper rad hose will look especially nice once it's polished!

I'm still in full thrash mode getting ready for HB. I mounted the radiator with on-phone tech support from Mr. Frankeeski, Frank Maslowski. I've lost count of how many times I've leaned on him to talk through a part of the build. Frank is under the weather, and his participation this weekend is in doubt, but between wheezes and coughs he calmly talked me through Rad placement questions I had. On my MKIII build I centered my Rad, because it looked more symmetrical. This time I lined up the rad according to the tab placement and although it looks a little funky I can see little advantages to the design, the way the wiring harness lays, and especially the way the lower rad hose clears the front tow tab:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40825&d=1429598278

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40826&d=1429598279

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40828&d=1429598280

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40831&d=1429598283

The oil filter and lower rad hose are tucked up nice and high...
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40829&d=1429598281

I attached the upper rad hose from breeze and completed the last major project to get to go cart structurally. It's starting to look like something!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40832&d=1429598284

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40833&d=1429598285

[David Hodgkins]

A few more shots:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40835&d=1429598287

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40836&d=1429598289

Tomorrow I will finish the wiring, do some preliminary tests of the harness and if that goes well, start adding fluids.

Is tomorrow first start day? I can possibly run it out to Wednesday if absolutely necessary but I'd really like tomorrow to be the day!

:)

PS feel free to chime in with questions or comments...

[Ray W.]

Everything looks great, David. I know how anxious you are to hear that engine. Do most builders run the passenger side headlight wire across the top of the radiator? I did mine across the bottom, if I'm not mistaken, like the pics in the build manual. Can you still use the FF aluminum in front of the radiator, now that it's mounted at a more vertical angle? I chose to center my radiator, and had to trim the tow hook a little for clearance. I'd like to hear more of your thoughts on the two different ways of doing it after you get the body on, now that you've done it both ways. I'm looking forward to your first start video!

[68GT500MAN]

Looks great Dave. This build is inspiring me to get back on the 33.
Doug

[MPTech]

David, anxiously awaiting your first start and thoroughly enjoying your build updates.

We have a lot of similar build designs and mods, so that tells me I made some good decisions.
Really like your coil installation, very clean.
Do you have a parts list for your remote oil filter? (basically the screw-in adapter and the filter housing, they look like nice pieces) I'd like to do this too.

Nice work, you are VERY close!

[David Hodgkins]

Ray, I didn't know you could mount the harness below the Radiator. I just repeated what I had done with my first build. The lower Rad uses an adjustable support bar from Breeze automotive, so I can change the angle of the Rad if needed. I'm planning to make my own outer Rad Shroud anyway but it's good that you noticed it's a little low. I'll correct that today. :)

Doug, where are you on your build?

MP, I got the remote oil setup from Mike Forte. Tell him I sent you and he'll give you no discount whatsoever. :D

:)

[wallace18]

Nice work David! Mike Forte does sell some very nice stuff though. LOL.

[David Hodgkins]

I need help!

Wiring is complete and when I turn the key the fuel pump works (driven by the EFI ECU) but when I turn to the start position nothing happens.

I have the Ron Francis wiring harness with NO remote solenoid. Can anyone help diagnose the issue?

:)

[Jeff Kleiner]

If you are not using a clutch safety switch you need to splice both legs of the light blue clutch switch wire together. This wire originates at the "start" pole of the ignition switch and runs to the "S" terminal of the solenoid. Without a safety switch or if the two sides of the wire are not joined together the start circuit is open.

HTH,
Jeff

[David Hodgkins]

If you are not using a clutch safety switch you need to splice both legs of the light blue clutch switch wire together. This wire originates at the "start" pole of the ignition switch and runs to the "S" terminal of the solenoid. Without a safety switch or if the two sides of the wire are not joined together the start circuit is open.

HTH,
Jeff

Jeff I bet that's it! Headed over to the shop to try it out.

:)

[David Hodgkins]

Guess what?!?


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3oE8YUYsj40

:D

[svanlare]

Congrats on the first start. Well worth the whole video for the "happy dance"!

[68GT500MAN]

Congratulations!!!!

[Jeff Kleiner]

Yahoo and congrats Dave! So, was the clutch safety switch wire the culprit?

Cheers,
Jeff

[OCMark]

Congrats Dave! It's come a long way since I saw it last year when I stopped by. Looks great!

[68GT500MAN]

Now a huge congratulations on the win at HB! The car looks even better in person and I heard good comments all day long.
Doug

[Ray W.]

Congrats on the first start! It's a good thing the engine wasn't in direct sunlight. The video would have been one big white blur because of the reflections off all that shiny metal. :) The only thing missing was the theme from "Footloose" playing in the background, but you can edit that in later.

[David Hodgkins]

Thanks Everyone! A special shout out to Jeff Kleiner; Jeff, indeed it was the clutch safety switch the had the open circuit. GREAT catch!

After I got the engine started I still had work to do to make in drive-able so I could get it on the trailer for the HB show but it was already 1pm and the Pre-Show BBQ was about to start so I closed up shop with the Idea that i would get back to it after the BBQ was over. Well, that didn't happen! The BBQ went until 10pm! So my only chance was to try and get to the shop super early to bleed the clutch and add differential fluid before the show on Sunday so I was at the shop at 3:30 AM the day of the show to try and "gitter dun". I could see the clutch engaging when I stomped on the clutch pedal but what I didn't see was the fact that I had only hand tightened one of the remote oil lines so when I started it up and moved it off the lift at 6:30 I discovered about a quart had spewed out and there were two huge puddles of oil on the ground under the lift and out into the parking lot. Was I frustrated? GRRR!! So I decided we couldn't wait any more. I put the build away and proceeded to HB because I had a bunch of stuff in my car that FFR needed for the show. I dropped it all off and made a beeline back to the shop to fix the leak and adjust the clutch so it would go into gear. I bought som kitty litter on the way to the shop and after a quick mop-up I fixed the leak, and after adjusting the clutch I tested the car by lifting it up and starting it to check for more leaks. It was dry(!) so I lowered the lift and tested the clutch. It went in and out of gear like butter so I loaded the chassis onto the trailer and set off to HB.

Once I got there I dropped off the chassis and then headed back out to find some drip pans for any cars that were going to park on the pier plaza. More towing around an empty trailer. Awesome.

Well, after a visit to two separate places I found 11 drip pans and headed back to the show. Finally, about 9am I was able to get back to the chassis on Main Street and the show proceeded at breakneck speed until the awards ceremony at 2PM. I met a TON of people and with most of the aluminum removed folks could see how all the different systems worked and I got a lot of really great feedback about the build.

Now, there were some cars at the show that will clearly better builds than mine. Mike and Julie's coupe (QSL and Mrs QSL) is clearly a top notch build and the amount of mods and fabrication in that build is a guarantee that when it is finished it will be one of the finest examples of a Factory Five build anywhere. Mike and Julie will need to build a bigger trophy case because that car WILL win a ton of awards! And I know of at least one other roadster build that is ultra top notch (Marcel) but he wasn't at the show. Hey Marcel, you can't win unless you bring your ride to the event Sir! A special note to both of you: Keep doing what you are doing and don't change a thing. Your builds are going to be BEAUTIFUL examples of superior workmanship! I'll never win best in show but you two might!

I did prep my build so that it was almost totally nude except for the custom passenger footbox, the engine turned firewall and other polished bits so people seemed to gravitate to it all day long. I answered a ton of questions and let some bigger guys try on my roadster for size. I wasn't judging so technically I was eligible for a prize but it was definitely a surprise to me when they called my brother's name for Best Under Construction build! So both my and my brother's build have won that award at HB. I won with my first build in 2008 and this one in 2015. Pretty sweet awards this year too:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41383&d=1430146911

After the show I was able to drive the build back onto the trailer and spent Sunday afternoon cleaning up the shop. after thrashing on the build for weeks before the HB show it was nice to be able to slow down and just organize the place again.

And start dreaming about next year...

:)

[QSL]

wow, i thought we had a stressful morning. All that plus helping with the show. Wow, you are truly amazing. I am so glad that you both possess that award. That is VERY cool!!! Congrats!!!!

Oh yea, thanks for the shoutout on the coupe. I think we are going to get it done this year. Its been way too long. We hope to drive it in next year.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Congratulations Dave; you've got a great build going :) Glad I was able to help save some troubleshooting on the first start.

Jeff

[Carlos C]

Congrats, David. One of these years I'll try to make a trip to the West Coast for this event, since there's no such event on the East Coast. Hopefully, we can talk Dave Smith into putting together an annual event on this side of the country.

Carlos

[svanlare]

The turned firewall and the polished bits made for a very spectacular display. Very much enjoyed seeing the car and saying hi.

[jceckard]

Congrats, David. One of these years I'll try to make a trip to the West Coast for this event, since there's no such event on the East Coast. Hopefully, we can talk Dave Smith into putting together an annual event on this side of the country.

Carlos

x2 on an East Coast event. There is a town on Topsail Island, NC named Surf City. Just sayin'.

PS - Sorry to hijack your thread. Please don't ban me! :)

[ehansen007]

In a related story, Hansen finishes a distant 6th in Under Construction. :(

http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac177/ehansen007/289%20Build/71A3E319-1064-4916-B0EC-D473226B03A4_zps5bwzfx9z.jpg (http://s897.photobucket.com/user/ehansen007/media/289%20Build/71A3E319-1064-4916-B0EC-D473226B03A4_zps5bwzfx9z.jpg.html)

;)

[David Hodgkins]

x2 on an East Coast event. There is a town on Topsail Island, NC named Surf City. Just sayin'.

PS - Sorry to hijack your thread. Please don't ban me! :)

That right there is pretty funny.

:)

[David Hodgkins]

and Hansen finishes a distant 6th. :(

http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac177/ehansen007/289%20Build/71A3E319-1064-4916-B0EC-D473226B03A4_zps5bwzfx9z.jpg (http://s897.photobucket.com/user/ehansen007/media/289%20Build/71A3E319-1064-4916-B0EC-D473226B03A4_zps5bwzfx9z.jpg.html)

;)

(Said in my best Paris Hilton Voice)

Dude, that's Hot!

:)

[frankeeski]

In a related story, Hansen finishes a distant 6th in Under Construction. :(

http://i897.photobucket.com/albums/ac177/ehansen007/289%20Build/71A3E319-1064-4916-B0EC-D473226B03A4_zps5bwzfx9z.jpg (http://s897.photobucket.com/user/ehansen007/media/289%20Build/71A3E319-1064-4916-B0EC-D473226B03A4_zps5bwzfx9z.jpg.html)

;)

Erik should have won "The Most Original Factory Five".

[ehansen007]

Frank, I'm almost caught up with you!

Dave that build is just off the hook!

[luvaz]

Congrats to the Hodgkins boys...none more deserving!:D
Thanks,
Will

[David Hodgkins]

Thanks Erik and Will. The build got a lot more praise at the show than I was expecting.

:)

[frankeeski]

Frank, I'm almost caught up with you!



Let's face it Erik if you have a plan to paint yours, you've already past me. :)

[David Hodgkins]

Back to work...

I neglected to mention a few details in the rush to get to first start. This is how I grounded the motor to the passenger motor mount. Do you think I should have used dialectic grease here?:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41448&d=1430237452
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41450&d=1430237454

I realized when I attached the battery that my Idea of using a terminal ring on the battery post - the literal interpretation of the Holley instructions - wasn't going to work out. There is play between the + and - cable ends and the ECU power cables so I re-routed the cables to the master cut off switch and frame connection for the respective + and - cables. It's a much more solid connection now:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41467&d=1430237475
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41470&d=1430237480

I never posted the TKO600 to frame rear mount clearance. I unfortunately can't show you the drive shaft angle because I reset the rear ride height but this does show where the rear of the drive line sit height-wise. Newbies note: the back of the TKO600 has a tab that has to be cut off. This trans from Forte came with it already done and the mid-shift kit already installed. All I had to do was install the shifter. Here's and typical TKO 600 with the default rear shift:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41556&d=1430487548

And here's my mid-shift setup:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41464&d=1430237471
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41444&d=1430237448

The TKO mid-shift position is just a little aft of where it sits compared to the T5-with-Chevy-S10-Tailhousing I have in 5369 so the trans cross bar had to go unfortunately.

Another "undercover" task that hadn't been completed was the lower 3-link bracket to rear frame connection. While setting that up I lowered the rear of the car closer to ride height and set the panard bar to as level as I could get, which was basically setting the adjustable side to to top of the range. Sorry, no pic of that. I'll add it later.

I have to still verify the fuel sender gauge is set up and then I'll rivet in the rest of the trunk. I also have to get back to polishing and engine turning the remote reservoir and maybe the dash. I've been kicking around a few different ideas for the dash, from fully turned to... ? I don't think polished stripes are a good idea for the dash... Maybe solid turned with a polished gauge bezel?

[David Hodgkins]

Here's today's report:

I did bubkus. Nada. Zip. Feels weird.

I just now added some more transmission details to the post above. So there's that.

:)

[68GT500MAN]

Dave,
I always use some dielectric grease when making electrical connections. Some say it is not necessary, but I have had great success doing it especially when joining different materials such as copper/steel or copper/aluminum.
Doug

[RobW33]

David,

I come back to your build thread to see photos but it seems that ever since you posted your happy dance first start video the pictures all disappeared. Quick question on your motor: It looks like you chose the Edelbrock Pro-Flo EFI. Was there any consideration for the E-Street setup instead? I sure like the look of the port injection and it looks like about a $1500 increase over the E-Street TBI.

Thanks for doing such a great job documenting everything! Makes it so much easier for my novice brain :)

Rob

[David Hodgkins]

Rob, sounds to me like you are not logged in?

:)

[David Hodgkins]

This weekend was kinda slow feeling, as I was just going around the build cleaning up rushed decisions from before the HB show and hooking up engine sensors.
We also bled the breaks, so theoretically the car can start, drive AND stop now...

These are the two wires that needed to connect to the Holley wiring harness for power. The red in 12+ and the blue is the EFI crant. In order for the red connection to not bleed over to the crank a .25 volt diode had to be used. This weekend I re-did it in it's final location:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41653&d=1430752212

I also read the instructions again as I was attaching the oil pressure sensor and realized I had put it together wrong. It needs to be installed with Teflon PASTE, NOT Teflon TAPE. THis is because the sensor has to ground to the block through the brass adapters. I took it apart and took the opportunity to buy a proper 1/2" npt to 1/8" npt fitting instead of the 1/2-to-1/4 to-1/8 fittings that were there before. Here is how it is set up now:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41644&d=1430752202

And installed. This image is from below, showing why the 45 degree fitting is needed to miss the remote oil fittings:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41647&d=1430752206

I also installed a oil temp probe in the oil pan. Since I had dropped an unknown amount of oil during the desperate attempt to load the roadster last week, I emptied the pan completely so I could fill from scratch and set the dipstick "full" height. The probe used another 1/2 to 1/8 npt brass adapter:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41651&d=1430752210
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41650&d=1430752209

As already mentioned, the wiring is being trimmed and fitted to it's permanent location. Here's how the EFI ECU looks now. I am going to mount it to the firewall with industrial velcro:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41654&d=1430752213
The wires from the Russ Francis to the ECU will have their own loom and will be mounted to the base of the firewall where it is riveted to the frame.

The only thing left to do before I can try heat-cycling the engine to power the gauges and fill the motor with a fresh 8 quarts of oil. I'll do that today.

I do have one other issue that needs to be tended to. The rear dif cover and the battery box do not want to play nice together. I'll be replacing the dif cover with something less substantial in an attempt to find clearance. If that doesn't work I will have to pull the trunk floor and completely re-do it while sliding the box over more. Man, I hope I don't have to do that...

:)

[David Hodgkins]

PS it's really starting to look like a go-cart now. This pic doesn't show it, but I also installed the air temp gauge in the temporary air filter I have, which was also "mounted" to the car.:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41459&d=1430237464

:)

[frankeeski]

Great progress Dave!

[Carlos C]

Looking great, David. Can't wait to get back to my build.

Carlos

[ehansen007]

I have to still verify the fuel sender gauge is set up and then I'll rivet in the rest of the trunk. I also have to get back to polishing and engine turning the remote reservoir and maybe the dash. I've been kicking around a few different ideas for the dash, from fully turned to... ? I don't think polished stripes are a good idea for the dash... Maybe solid turned with a polished gauge bezel?

How about you engine turn it and then anodize it black?

[David Hodgkins]

How about you engine turn it and then anodize it black?

Hmmm... I wonder what that would look like?

:)

[David Hodgkins]

I haven't posted in a few days but I have been working on the car, with a faint hope of taking it to Willow Springs this weekend for some shakedown testing. It was a tall order and may be too tall to accomplish, but it's an excuse to keep working so that's what I did.

I can't tell you how much having a lift helps the build process! I was able to check out the whole underside of the car for leaks while it idled above me. I found that my remote filter hoses were weeping and after I shut the motor down I gave it a wiggle and it pulled out of it's fitting!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41686&d=1430855351
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41685&d=1430855350

Lesson learned? Do NOT leave electrical tape around the stainless hose just because it makes cutting and trimming easier! I had put the tape around the hose when I sheared it to length to help contain all the wire strands and that's a BIG no-no!

I continue to put sensors on the motor. It turns out you need TWO water temp sensors: one for the gauges and one to trip the fan on and off. So I determined the best spot for the fan temp sensor is on the water neck, on the rad side of the thermostat. The water neck is not drilled and tapped out of the box, so I had to drain the coolant - I'm using water until I heat-cycle the motor several times and no hoses burst like my first build - and then hit several stores to get the tap, a 9/16 bit and sensor. Here's a shot of the water neck before the mod:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41691&d=1430855357

And here it is after removal. There was no gasket. Just RTV. What's your opinion about running with or without a gasket? My motor wasn't leaking at all, and the water neck took some persuasion with a rubber mallet before it released...:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41713&d=1430924223

Here's the hole after drilling the 9/16th hole. The tap calls for a 37/64th bit which neither Ace Hardware or Home depot had.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41714&d=1430924224

And here's the hole after being tapped. The sensor fits in there nicely.:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41716&d=1430924226

Finally, I cleaned the RTV off with a utility knife the best I could. Does that look OK or should I hit it with mineral spirits? Anything better at getting the remaining RTV off?
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41718&d=1430924228

[frankeeski]

I think you clean it well enough Dave. I usually hit it with some Acetone but you should be fine.

BTW, that does look like the t-stat I described to you. The one with the hole in it to let coolant bypass as the engine warms up.

[Jeff Kleiner]

An FYI for anyone who may have the same needs in the future--- I've used Autozone #814884 on a few roadsters. It's already tapped and less than 10 bucks:

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj43/jkleiner/922ac4c8.jpg

Cheers,
Jeff

[David Hodgkins]

Thanks for the FYI Jeff, good for others to note.

The one I drilled out and tapped is this part from Ford:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41717&d=1430924227

I also mocked up the gauges for the first time. I used the dash that came with the kit for this purpose. It is cut at the factory for Autolite gauges and the two larger ones have to have the holes enlarged to fit the Speedhut Gauges. Luckily FFR makes it easy to increase the holes by pre-cutting the holes (mostly). All you have to do is drill out some connection material, like so:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41722&d=1430932192

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41727&d=1430932296

The two gauge holes, after being enlarged:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41725&d=1430932196

And the first time the dash meets the car!:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41726&d=1430932198

The super-cool aluminum 15th Anniversary Dif cover is coming off this week in favor of a standard 8.8 cover, in order to clear the FFMetal Battery box. Wish me luck, because if it doesn't fit, the trunk floor will have to come out and be completely re-done... :mad:

:)

[RobW33]

Rob, sounds to me like you are not logged in?

:)

Well, don't I feel dumb! Good thing I found that check box to keep me logged in :)

[David Hodgkins]

Yesterday I continued to hook up the gauges, relying on the informative post by Jeff Kleiner. I did find some differences in his advice vs what I had to do to make some of them work but he definitely help get me down the road. Thanks Jeff!

But first I re-installed my water neck after tapping it for the sensor. It didn't have a gasket originally so I thought I'd try RTV only as an experiment to see if I could get it to hold without leaking. I guess we'll find out today!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41738&d=1431030339

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41739&d=1431030340

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41740&d=1431030341

more to come later today...

:)

[David Hodgkins]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c1tGRQ-xEiM

All the gauge lights work! The fuel sender, volts, oil pressure and water and oil temp are all hooked up.


I started the motor and got these readings at idle:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41761&d=1431033886

Doesn't the oil pressure seem a little high? Is that something that needs to be calibrated?

:)

[Jeff Kleiner]

No calibration necessary for Speedhut pressure or temperature gauges. 50 PSI cold is pretty typical for a SBF. It will probably drop to about 40 at operating temperature. Don't get alarmed if the oil temp gauge doesn't come up; you won't begin seeing heat in the oil until you're running higher revs.

Jeff

[David Hodgkins]

Jeff, your amazing man, always helping out. Thanks, again.

Ever since I put the FFMetal battery box in I knew I had an issue with clearance due to the rather large aluminum dif cover that came as part of the 15th anniversary kit. It is engraved with a special 15th anniversary logo and is a really nice piece, but due to it's size I couldn't find any way to keep it other than either modifying the battery box or removing it completely. So I picked up a new standard Ford 8.8 dif cover yesterday and changed them out. Here are some pics of the process:

The cover that I removed. It's actually very nice:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41783&d=1431094437

...and I replaced it with this:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41787&d=1431094451

Here you can see the size comparison:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41788&d=1431094452

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41782&d=1431094436

No doubt, the FFR (Moser) Dif cover is MUCH nicer! But it wouldn't look so hot after bashing into the battery box a few times. Since I had the rear open it gave me an opportunity to document the gearset and limited slip dif:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41789&d=1431094453

And here's what the new dif cover looks like installed:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41792&d=1431094456

As you can see, the new cover does just barely clear the battery box:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41791&d=1431094455

So tonight I'll fill it with gear oil (Royal Purple 70W-90 with friction modifier added) and button up the water neck I installed on Wednesday. Then I have to finish wiring the fan switch and I believe I'll be at the heat-cycle test stage!

My better half is enjoying a nice mother's day weekend away doing girly stuff so I get the whole weekend in the shop. Look out for go-cart videos, coming SOON!

[68GT500MAN]

Looks like a solution has been found. I could have sent you a stock cover if I knew this was the direction you needed to go. Mount the engraved one in a frame and display it somewhere important.
Doug

[David Hodgkins]

For the past few days I have been working on cleaning up the dash wiring and trying to get the radiator fan to work. I created a dedicated thread for mixing the RF harness with the FFR (speedhut) gauges:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?17731-Roadster-builders-Speedhut-Ron-Francis-Need-help-figuring-out-wiring

The short story is the rad fan is working(!) and I moved on to riveting the cockpit and trunk and will be mounting the seats so we can go-cart this sucker! I called DA-BAT Jeff Miller to arrange a drop off of the body for next weekend! Woohoo!

Todays' pics!:

Puttin' on the goop:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41880&d=1431440673

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41881&d=1431440674
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41882&d=1431440675
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41883&d=1431440676
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41884&d=1431440677
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41885&d=1431440678
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41887&d=1431440681

[David Hodgkins]

A Few More:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41889&d=1431440683
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41890&d=1431440684
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=41893&d=1431440688

:)

[David Hodgkins]

I've been busy trying to figure out how to integrate the speedhut senders with the Ron Francis wiring harness. For most of them it's pretty easy: just use the senders supplied with the gauges directly and ignore the wires in the sending harness. This works for all of the sender harness wires EXCEPT the Fan Thermo Switch wire. I created a dedicated thread to work on the problem HERE (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?17731-Roadster-builders-Speedhut-Ron-Francis-Need-help-figuring-out-wiring).

Today I cut down a few ground wires and permanently mounted them, and that leads me to a question. The engine wiring harness has a ground wire and the way it was labeled told me to ground it to the engine block. I routed it to one of the aluminum heads:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=42100&d=1432263870

My question is, is this sufficient, or did I need to ground it to the block? The car starts, and there doesn't seem to be any issue, but I'm wondering if this could pop up later as a problem...

:)

[TouchStone]

Do you know what that ground line is for? If its a dedicated ground line for a certain sensor/device it would be best to mount it closest to that sensor/device.

My problem with aluminum is that the surface oxidizes very quickly and this layer of oxide is non-conductive. I prefer to mount electrical connections to steel and if I had to mount to aluminum I would want to use a star type lock washer to help mar the surface and break through the layer of oxide to make a strong electrical connection.

But considering this is an automotive application these suggestions are probably too nit-picky to matter.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I consider it good practice to run a #2 ground cable from the block to chassis, usually putting the engine end under one of the starter bolts and then drilling a hole in the engine mount pedestal to nut & bolt the chassis end.

Jeff

[68GT500MAN]

Put some di-electric grease under each connection (especially Al) and it will help the connection remain conductive. I use it on steel and aluminum.
Doug

[David Hodgkins]

I consider it good practice to run a #2 ground cable from the block to chassis, usually putting the engine end under one of the starter bolts and then drilling a hole in the engine mount pedestal to nut & bolt the chassis end.

Jeff

I already have a main ground cable that is exactly as you describe. This is a small (16-18 gauge) wire coming from the EFI harness.

:)

[jceckard]

Put some di-electric grease under each connection (especially Al) and it will help the connection remain conductive. I use it on steel and aluminum.
Doug

x2. Works great on battery terminals too. I have a can of NoOx from my time as a telco switch installer. We used it like Frank's Red Hot. We put that sh!t on everything.

[David Hodgkins]

Put some di-electric grease under each connection (especially Al) and it will help the connection remain conductive. I use it on steel and aluminum.
Doug

Thanks Doug, I'll throw some DG on the connection and call it good.

:)

[David Hodgkins]

Considering this was memorial day weekend, I didn't get TOO much accomplished. I found the overflow tank finally and the mounting brackets were nowhere to be seen so I fabricated some new ones and mounted the tank on the passenger F-Panel. I have some braided steel hose left over so I decided that I would get a fitting for the hose to the tank today and just use a small hose clamp for the fitting under the t-filler. Pics of that tomorrow.

The main thing I did this weekend with the help of my kids was to put the body on the car. I'm going to prep it this week for the trip to the Bat Cave. Here are some pics:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=42167&d=1432654954

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=42169&d=1432654956

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=42170&d=1432654957

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=42171&d=1432654958

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=42168&d=1432654955

I also finished setting up the engine-turning jig in anticipation of engine-turning the dash. I haven't finalized what pattern - if any - i will leave un-turned. It's looking more and more in my mind like I will turn the whole thing, unlike the firewall that has the polished stripes. If anyone has input or ideas on the matter I'd love to hear it!

:)

[jayguy]

Looking good Dave. How about continuing the stripes across the dash?

[David Hodgkins]

Looking good Dave. How about continuing the stripes across the dash?

Thanks Jay! That was my first idea, but I'm concerned about sun reflection. I don't think that much polished aluminum on the dash would be a good thing during some parts of the day. My current thought is a fully turned dash with a polished gauge bezel. The bezel would look like this, only polished instead of engine-turned:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=33301&d=1410044292

:)

[mkiv8475]

Dave

Your build looks great, I like the look of the March pully setup and everything else that you have done. From reading your thread it looks like I will end up having to cut the tunnel support to make the mid shift kit to work.

Rick

[David Hodgkins]

Rick,

There's really no getting around it, with a TKO/Midshift. My MKIII has the same engine/bellhousing but has a T5 with S10 tailhousing that puts the shifter just a bit forward of the bar. If I build another down the line it will get another TKO.

:)

[wallace18]

Beautiful job so far!

[David Hodgkins]

Beautiful job so far!

Thank you sir! That means a lot!

It's been a week since my last update, but that doesn't mean nothing has been done on the build!

The last thing I had to do before draining the water and adding real coolant was to set up the overflow tank. I used the one that came with the complete kit and had a 90 degree barb attached to the bottom. I then mounted it and used some left-over stainless hose from my fubar'd 1st attempt at fuel lines. The stainless actually looks real good in the engine bay. Here are a few pics:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=42259&d=1432831115

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=42260&d=1432831116

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=42255&d=1432831108

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=42256&d=1432831110

I'll cut a piece of rubber tubing later so that the clamp doesn't scratch up the filler tube...

Moving on, last Saturday I loaded up the roadster behind the ol' Excursion and headed out to Da' Bat Cave in Temecula:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=42372&d=1433170681

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=42373&d=1433170682

continued...

:)

[jayguy]

Yeah, I guess there is a little bit of sunshine once in a while in SoCal, isn't there? :o

I like the polished gauge bezel idea too. That'll be less to reflect off of, and broken up by the gauges, but still continue the theme.

[68GT500MAN]

Dave,
I noticed water spots on the alternator and bracket, must be from HB. When will you have it back from the cave?
Doug

[David Hodgkins]

Dave,
I noticed water spots on the alternator and bracket, must be from HB. When will you have it back from the cave?
Doug

Yeah, that was from HB. I'm not sure how long Jeff will have the body. Dag nabbit, that reminds me; I never finished the Bat Cave post!

:)

[David Hodgkins]

I haven't had much time to post about my trip to Jeff Miller's place so here's a recap.

I still don't own a trailer so after picking one up at uhaul I loaded the roadster up on Friday evening for the trip down to Jeff's on Saturday. I told him I'd be ther at 9 am but ended up arriving at 10. This is significant because he told me he had to be out of there by 3:30 pm.

When I arrived Jeff wasted no time diving into setting up the body so he could hang the doors. I only attached it to the frame at the two factory-drilled mounting points under the doors. Jeff instructed me to NOT drill the front so he could do it. Fine by me! First thing we did was remove the pipes so we could get the body off. We flipped the body upside down and jeff marked and cut down the rolled cockpit edges to create more clearance for the carpet and dash, and then we re-mounted the body. He drilled out the front quick-jack holes and mounted the front and after quick jacks, and drilled out and mounted the forward body-mount bolts under the foot boxes. With the body now snugly fitted to the frame he mounted the doors. I couldn't believe how much material he had to add to both doors. Definitely different than my MKIII. He then used rage to build up the tops to meet the cowl. Here are some pics of that process:

Adding material to the doors. First he identified areas that needed material and ground off the gel-coat in that area. For the driver's door most of it was in the front and on the passenger side it was almost all on the bottom of the door:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=42383&d=1433170693

Open, adjust fit, close, grind, repeat. Over and over!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=42384&d=1433170695

After he fit the door and ID'd the area he needed to add material to, he taped off the area and adjusted the door inward so he wouldn't add TOO much material. Then he filled the gap and waited for it to set up:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=42385&d=1433170696

After the goop set up, he "broke the door away from the tape and re-fit the door again. this time he cut down the other areas of the door to get the final gap all around:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=42387&d=1433170698

When the gaps were done he scuffed up the top of the door and taped off the gap again in preparation for the rage body filler:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=42388&d=1433170700

The speed in which he filled and contoured the rage was amazing! after it first started to set he had the whole think done in like 10 minutes:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=42390&d=1433170702

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=42393&d=1433170706

Continued...

[David Hodgkins]

Continued...

Then he repeated the whole process on the other door:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=42395&d=1433170709

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=42396&d=1433170711

He worked fast! but before We knew it he was already and hour over schedule (because I was late) and we had the body off and the go-cart back on the trailer by 4:30. In our haste I forgot to ask him to verify that I had the proper measurement for the polished striped on the firewall. I guess we'll find out if I blew it or not when we mount the painted body!

One thing I did notice that I hadn't before was that the body was stamped with an ID.:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=42398&d=1433170714

So that was my trip to Da Bat Cave. Jeff's turn time is roughly 4-6 weeks. I have a lot to do between now and then! I made some progress in the week since my visit to Jeff's; that will be detailed in my next update.

:)

[David Hodgkins]

This past week I didn't get too much time to work on the car but I did manage to drain the water from the motor and replace it with proper coolant. One thing I had done when first assembling is I didn't add an "adapter" piece of hose over the radiator bottom outlet, but instead I had just cinched the connecting tube real tight, which deformed it. It held water but I knew it wasn't 100% correct so I fixed that before adding coolant:

Before:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=40831&d=1429598283

After:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=42534&d=1433776517

I also fixed a problem where the clutch pedal was hitting the 3/4 tube, limiting it's throw. It would stop a good 1.5' - 2 " from the front of the footbox. Since I need all the legroom I could get this had to be remedied. I've read, and see pics of examples where folks just cut the tube out completely. I didn't want to do this and my first thought was to cut the arm but once I started I thought better of it. I marred the arm some but will smooth it back out and throw some black paint on it. You can see the abortion in this next shot. So after deciding to notch the frame instead of cutting the tube completely I marked the frame with a straight edge and took a guess at just how much to cut:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=42532&d=1433776514

This is something that should have been done early in the build, and is worth noting if you are reading this thread before building. If I hadn't mounted the floor aluminum I could have made quick work of this but since the floor was riveted I couldn't get a sawzall in there so I attacked it with my dremel. After cutting I tested the throw and couldn't believe how lucky I got with my cross cut. The frame now acts as a stop for the pedal and is just 1/8" from the front of the box. Perfect!
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=42533&d=1433776516

The car now shifts with the ease of a hot knife through butter.

:)

[David Hodgkins]

Wow, can't believe it's been a whole month since my last update. Last time I posted, we were dropping off the body at Jeff Miller's. The body is now ready for paint, but I'm not ready to put the body on! I have several projects that are done and many more to do before the body can go on the car. Among the projects that needed to be done between dropping off the body and picking it up are:


Make Seat Brackets and mount the seats
Design and make the cockpit cubby wall
Buy and install stereo
Make a separate hinged cubby wall to hide the stereo components
Rivet cockpit
Engine turn dash and cubby walls
Apply cockpit soundproofing
Carpet cockpit
Wire Horn
wire high beams and test all exterior lighting
Install seat heaters
Create glovebox


YIKES!

I've made a good amount of progress, but still have a LONG way to go. I'm off to the shop again today and will try to update the build thread tonight with my activity in the past month...

:)

[David Hodgkins]

You know how long it's been since my last update? I have pics starting on June 12 (Pre FFR Open House) and proceeding all the way to July 22. Wow. There's so much to get catch you all up on! Without further adieu let's get into this. But first I give FFR some constructive criticism. I HATE to do it, but this is a problem that needs addressing

I have a problem with my Cats. One is definitely too short. Here's the driver's side:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43151&d=1435706936

Looks good, nice spacing away from the frame, nice and square through the hole in the body.

Now look at this:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43152&d=1435706937

Look at how close that pipe is to the chassis. It will not mount once the body is on unless severely turned out to get it through the body. After contacting FFR and sending pics measuring the length of the Cats, I was told they were in spec. I have a Crate 302, FFR-supplied motor mounts and BBK Shorty Headers. The FMS shorties I had do not work due to the #4 Cylinder hitting the motor mount. This is a very basic spec. Seems to me that the passenger side Cat length spec needs to change.

The solution to this problem for this build is to either lengthen the Cat or make a spacer to go between the Cat and the side pipe. Since I've already paid to Ceramic-coat the Cats I will create a spacer for the pipe.

Reluctantly. :mad:

OK so now that I have that on record I can move on to all the really cool stuff I've done in the past month +!

Well, I made some errors too. I took measurements from my roadster seat brackets in order to make some for this build. In my first build, I had Kirkey Intermediates (47 series) that I cut down to look like Kirkey Vintage 41V's. The 47 series Intermediates actually have a seam that I used as a cutting point to knock off the upper portion of the seats. I (mistakenly) assumed they used the same bottoms for both seats. As it turns out, they are substantially different. But I didn't know that so I had the bases made substantially shorter this time around. That would be fine with the 47 series base, but the 41V has a "kicked-up" front portion of the seat that requires a higher mount on the seat bracket. It's so much higher that I am going to have to re-do the brackets. So I'll just skip that little fiasco for now and we'll pick it back up after I get the basic shape re-manufactured. I'll then show how I set the seat height and layback, and how I mount the seat brackets. In other words the seat bracket you see in the following photos are going to be replaced. Moving on...

I decided it was time to finally finish riveting the cockpit aluminum. The floors and back wall were done, and then I did the trans tunnel. I originally drilled the trans cover to be inside the side walls to I held the trans sidewalls in with clecos while riveting the back wall:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43189&d=1435706985

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43192&d=1435706990

I then carefully measured and cut out the shifter hole. I didn't have a hole saw so I had to do this with a dremel. I drilled and cleco'd the rear shift hole cover in and notched it where needed to match the new shifter hole:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43193&d=1435706992

I riveted the trans cover in place but left the shifter cover cleco'd for the time being. Here's the finished result:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43198&d=1435707002

[KDubU]

Nice build David! Perhaps someone has already asked but how did you get the aluminum panels so shiny in the engine bay?

[David Hodgkins]

Next project was the stereo. My brother wants tunes so there you go. He wanted it as hidden as possible, so no head unit. We decided to have just an amplifier and speakers. 6" speakers inside the cockpit cubby behind the occupants and 4" rounds in the side intrusion wall in front of the seats. A phone (or other device with headphone output) would drive the system. I picked out a decent Alpine system from a local dealer. The amp has separate gains for front and rear speakers as well as the ability to frequency cut so the 4" wouldn't sound muddy. After mocking it up and balancing the sound in the cockpit I can tell you it certainly sounds great while parked or at idle. We'll see about freeway speeds later.

In keeping with the desire to hide the system as much as possible I decided to create a second wall in the trunk just behind the speakers and amp to hide them when the trunk is opened. The front wall would be structural and the rear wall hinged so I can get to the amp and speakers when needed.

I bought some remnant wainscoting wood (hard pressboard) from a lumberyard and made wooden templates of the front and rear walls. I do this to get the right size and shape of the wall before making it out of metal. As I made the templates I also mocked up the amp and speakers. I did not take the speaker wires into account when I laid out the chassis harness so I had to feed it into the looms already existing and rub=n the wires from the trunk area, up the trans tunnel and then into the area behind the dash before exiting the sides and dropping down to the front of the door opening where the speakers are. Power and ground wires also needed to be fed to 12V and chassis ground, and a wire for switching the system on and off had to be run to the accessory poll on the ignition switch. The lift came in real handy to allow me under-car access to the wire looms and now you can't even tell they were added after the fact.

Here are pictures of the stereo mockup:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43205&d=1435707219

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43209&d=1435707223

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43207&d=1435707221

I got the radius by tracing the back of the cockpit wall onto some scrap wood and then cutting out the shape. I then traced the shape onto the wall templates and cut them out:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43217&d=1435707232

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43221&d=1435707236

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43226&d=1435707242

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43241&d=1435707264

continued...

[David Hodgkins]

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43231&d=1435707249

Then I did the component install:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43411&d=1436213794

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43412&d=1436213795

I used the hole on the trunk floor for the battery mount on the driver's side to feed all the wires through. This doesn't show it but this hole now has a proper grommet in it to shield the cables:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43413&d=1436213796

Wires integrated into loom:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43416&d=1436213798
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43414&d=1436213797

Here's the system wired up. I'll be adding an inline fuse to the positive, just to be safe...
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43419&d=1436213802

continued...

[David Hodgkins]

Nice build David! Perhaps someone has already asked but how did you get the aluminum panels so shiny in the engine bay?

Good question! I'll show you in a couple of posts coming up...

:)

[David Hodgkins]

...continued

Front speaker install:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43418&d=1436213801

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43422&d=1436213805

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43421&d=1436213804

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43424&d=1436213808

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43425&d=1436213809

:)

Next up: creating the metal walls from wood templates

[ehansen007]

Wow! 4 speakers and two amps in the rear! Impressive. :) Looking good buddy. I hope I don't have the same issue with my Cats but I'm pretty sure I will.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Great work David :)

Hey, check your PM box---been trying to get in touch RE: some business we need to complete.

Cheers,
Jeff

[lastdime]

I've wondered about placing speakers below the door in the side panels but didn't think anything would fit. The are Alpines but could you give me the model number? That would save me a lot of searching.

[David Hodgkins]

lastdime, I'll get that for you today and let you know. EDIT: They are model SPS-410. The 6x9's are model SPS-619.

BTW, anyone can take a look at my Build Pic album for pics of the build. I'm still behind on getting this thread up to speed but all the latest pics are in the album.
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/album.php?albumid=825

:)

[lastdime]

Thanks for the speaker info and all the pics. You are really doing a spectacular job on your build. Your photos and illustrations are extremely helpful and have given me many really helpful ideas. Thanks!

[David Hodgkins]

Thanks for the speaker info and all the pics. You are really doing a spectacular job on your build. Your photos and illustrations are extremely helpful and have given me many really helpful ideas. Thanks!

You are most welcome! I'm glad you are finding this thread helpful!

So after I mocked up the cubby and trunk walls in wood and wired the amp and speakers, it was time to build the real walls in aluminum. I bought some 4'X1' .063 6061 sheets from a local supply house and got to work. I chose 6061 because it's stiffer than the 5052 that comes with the kit. For the front wall I marked out tabs that I would use to "lock" the panel in place. I came up with a slightly different method of mounting due to the un-evenness of the walls and floor in the trunk. Since the metal is going to be exposed I wanted the wall to fit really tight and not show any gaps so what I did was cut slits in the floor and the side walls that the tabs can slide into. After the wall is in place I'll go under the car and bend the tabs over and rivet them in place. It's a little unconventional but the wall doesn't rattle and it is definitely locked in place.

I traced the wall pattern on to the metal from the wooden wall templates and cut out the shape on my bandsaw. then I filed down the edges to get to the final shape, repeatedly mounting the wall to check for size. When you look at the shape, the floor and passenger wall are very wavey, but once the filing is done the result is a very nice and tight fit. Here are some pics of the process...

There is a lot of curve in the passenger side trunk wall. You can see it in this pic. This is because I was impatient and didn't fully adjust the floor and side walls befor I started drilling rivet holes. No biggie, but it's not as perfect as it could have been:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44037&d=1438286506

The bottom was cut over-size and then filed to match the floor as it was fitted:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44035&d=1438286504

Filing down the sides. As you can tell, not a perfect fit yet:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44039&d=1438286508

Lining up and cutting the floor slots. The sides and bottom were fitted before cutting the top arch:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44041&d=1438286510

Getting a little ahead of myself here to show how the tabs on the side walls are slotted to allow the wall to slide vertically into position. You can also see in this shot how much the floor rises toward the sides of the trunk:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43841&d=1437760869

continued...

[David Hodgkins]

continued...

Once I fit both walls it was time to polish and engine turn the panels. I like them to be as bright as possible, plus, the trunk wall was getting polished racing stripes so I set up and area to do the polishing. Polishing is DIRTY work so I cut up a large piece of cardboard to protect the work area. There were a couple of brackets I made to hold the remote reservoirs and fuel pressure regulator so I took those off the car to polish as well:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43811&d=1437760830

I used some Nuvite metal polishing compound to polish these out. I can be a 3-stage process to get to full mirror. Here's the first panel after the first stage:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43815&d=1437760834

As you can tell, it's a vast improvement but still had a ways to go:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43816&d=1437760836

...and this is after the fine polish was used:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43836&d=1437760862

Here's a shot after all the panels were polished:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43834&d=1437760859

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43837&d=1437760864

After the panels were polished it was time to move over to the engine - turning jig. This next shot is pretty cool, in that it shows you everything you need to engine turn:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43840&d=1437760868

continued...

[KDubU]

Very cool how you got theses panels to be mirror-like!

[David Hodgkins]

Very cool how you got theses panels to be mirror-like!

They aren't full mirror, but pretty close. Good enough for rock and roll. I posted a pic above that shows Nuvite, which comes in several different abrasion levels. I just dab some thumbprint-sized bits on the metal and go to town with a wool pad and a polisher.

There is a different technique I'm going to try this week, which is to use a soft pad on a grinder with a stick-abrasive. I'll let you know how that goes.

Polished panels are a pain to maintain, frankly. My MKIII panels were left raw after polishing and they look BAD right now. I protected the new build panels with sharkhide, and although I lost some reflect-ability, they haven't oxidized at all since they were coated. So there's a trade-off. When I go back and hand-polish the panels on my first build they will look better than the panels on this build but will start to fade quickly...

--------------

When I engine turned the front wall, shown in the jig above, it gave me all sorts of trouble. It actually took 3 multi-hour sessions to do the panel but the wand broke in the middle of it and I lost a day while I ran around town getting the cable fixed.
Everything started out ok...
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43843&d=1437760872

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43844&d=1437760874

When I reached this far, the wand broke and I had to tear it apart...
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43855&d=1437760894

To get this little doohickie out. It was stripped:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43854&d=1437760892
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43853&d=1437760890

I did learn a lesson though. First is, it was fixable. Secondly, I was using too much pressure and holding the wand on the metal for too long. Overall the finished panel was not my best effort. I contemplated tossing and starting over but decided to press on and cut the speaker holes out and do a test fitting before deciding it's fate. Here it is after the second engine-turning session. As you can see, it's not perfect:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43867&d=1437760920

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43870&d=1437760926

continued...

[David Hodgkins]

...and here is the panel after engine-turning:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43871&d=1437760928

I pressed on and cut out the speaker holes VERY CAREFULLY with a dremel. Luckily, it came out clean, with no accidental "run-outs":
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43875&d=1437760936

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43880&d=1437760948

After a bit of filing to clean up the dremel work I test-mounted the panel again. As you'll see in these next shots, it doesn't look too bad. I did burn a bit of the sharkhide on the floor panel while cutting out the slots. I'll carefully repair that before the final mounting:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43886&d=1437760966

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43888&d=1437760970

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43887&d=1437760968

I decided to keep the panel. The next step was to do the rear wall. This will be visible when you open the trunk and will hide the speakers and the amp. This wall got polished racing stripes. First I glued the panel to the work surface and laid out the stripe edges:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43894&d=1437760984

continued...

[David Hodgkins]

...then I got to work:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43896&d=1437760989

After the left hand side was done I pulled the tape and reset it for the pin stripe:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43922&d=1437841439

I made short work of it and in no time at all I was ready to see how the pinstripe came out. This short video shows the unveiling...:


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oEpYwcmnRRc

Then I moved on to the center stripe and the right side. This panel went very smooth and came out very nice:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43929&d=1437841446

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43928&d=1437841445

:)

[David Hodgkins]

I've been on vacation but Da Bat has been busy!

Sneak Peek:
http://ffroadster.com/images/15thAnniBuild/150810_0001.jpg
http://ffroadster.com/images/15thAnniBuild/150810_0002.jpg

:D

[QSL]

Did you order fries with that?

[wallace18]

WoW! that looks great. You are truly doing a fantastic job on this build. Way to go!

[David Hodgkins]

Did you order fries with that?

I like onion rings dude...


WoW! that looks great. You are truly doing a fantastic job on this build. Way to go!

Thanks! Back at ya. You've got some cool cars in your avatar.

[QSL]

Just busting you dave. Frank and Julie made me do it. Looks awesome!

[David Hodgkins]

I went on vacation last week - Did ya miss me? - and just got back to the build. Under Pressure!! I coated the cubby walls with sharkhide and began final assembly. I'm going to add some fiberboard to the inside walls of the stereo box to warm up the acoustics and that's why the panels below aren't powdercoated...

The speaker panel hasn't been riveted in yet and it was floating a little in this shot, but you can see the panel is basically done. I'm going to glue was acoustic board to the back of this panel before mounting the stereo:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44517&d=1439873405


Here's how the hinged rear wall works. I got some 90 degree angled stock and filed the floor-side to match the contours of the trunk floor. This is so that the upper edge that has the piano hinge mounted to it remains flat. You can see in the shot below that in the last inch or so I filed so much off that the metal against the floor is gone due to the raise in the trunk floor on the sides. I polished the trunk side then engine turned it to match the stripe pattern on the wall. I drilled offset hole patterns between the trunk floor and hinge so they wouldn't interfere, coated with sharkhide and mounted the angle to the floor with rivets and a light layer of silicone:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44511&d=1439873400

I had to notch the upper corners of the rear wall to clear the bulb seal and I had to file a single rivet on each wall so that they wouldn't interfere with the wall when it is opened and closed. Here's what the wall will look like in the down position. BTW It will get a thin layer of sound board and bulb seal on the top too:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44520&d=1439873409

And here is the rear wall (basically) mocked up. It will be held to the hinge with button screws and I still need to align it and mount guides on the sidewalls that will use magnets to hold the panel in place in the vertical position but you can get an idea of what it will look like:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44513&d=1439873402

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44515&d=1439873403

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44514&d=1439873403

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44512&d=1439873401

EDIT: Just about to hit 20,500 views. Thanks guys!

[David Hodgkins]

The "Music Box" continues...

I used to be an audio engineer in a past life. So I decided that the box housing the stereo needed to be solid and have good sound reflection and enclosure properties. If I left the box all metal the resulting sound would be "tinny". I don't have a bass speaker so I want to warm the tone as best I can with the speakers I have. So I decided I can use the 6X9 speaker enclosure as a bass cabinet (couldn't hurt). I'm adding sound board to the inner surfaces. If nothing else the board, when bonded to the panel, increases it's stiffness and eliminates any chance of oil canning.

Here are some pics of tonights progress:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44540&d=1439962740

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44542&d=1439962742

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44543&d=1439962743

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44541&d=1439962742

The trunk wall board is cut short on the sides and top to account for the bulb seal and where the wall will seat on the sides with the help of some angle aluminum, jbweld and magnets.

:)

[David Hodgkins]

...And continues...

Installed the amp and rear speakers, and finished bonding soundboard. I installed and tightened the bazillion little buttonhead bolts on the rear wall piano hinge (the things we do for aesthetics) so all I have to do to finish it is bond some magnets to it that will match a set of magnets on some angle stock riveted to the side wall. That's part of tonight's' plan. The wall swings open and shut very cleanly and the wall to side wall gap is extremely small so it is turning out to be a very nice piece.

As always, tons of pics:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44628&d=1440134745

The wall in the down position. Servicing the amp if needed will be a snap:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44623&d=1440134737

The clearance is tight! No buzzing or other weirdness when I tested the speakers at full volume...
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44631&d=1440134750

Rear wall:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44632&d=1440134752

CLOSE up of the piano hinge and the matching engine-turned stripes on the base angle stock:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44626&d=1440134742

Overall the trunk is starting to get there. I still have to trim and fit the battery cover; that's always an adventure! I'd like to find a thin piece of plastic to act as a gasket between the battery poles and the lid. The clearance is a little tight for my liking. The trunk is really dusty but I cleaned up the cubby aluminum to the right in this next pic a bit so you can tell how dusty the trunk is. You'll get the idea. (These are build pics after all. Glamour shots come later.)

A warning: All those with and aversion to shiny bits may want to avert your eyes:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44634&d=1440134755

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=44640&d=1440134763

I also spoke with an upholstery shop right around the corner from me and they should be able to knock out the cockpit next week before I go get the body next weekend at Da Bat!

[David Hodgkins]

I've been trying to get the upholstery done at a shop and they are - delaying - so I'm giving up putting in the carpet before the body.

Bat cave this Sunday!

:)

[KDubU]

Very cool! Can't wait to see it put together.

[David Hodgkins]

Well, the best laid plans...

I messed up. I forgot I had parts at the powder coater and therefore no way to mount the trunk or hood, even for test fitting. So I discussed it with Jeff and scrubbed the appointment. I feel really bad for Jeff, as he has had to store my body for a while now and deserves to get it out of there.

And I feel REALLY bad for frankeeski, who came out to help after I announced I was going to be there and didn't know I cancelled.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=26351&d=1392764443

Yeah. Ouch. Frank: IOU breakfast - on top of everything else - at the next Maniac Mike's get together.

Word on the street is it might happen this weekend. But I wouldn't count on it, that Hodgkins guy is kind of a flake these days.

:(

[ehansen007]

you dumbass. LOL :cool:

[David Hodgkins]

you dumbass. LOL :cool:

I'm very tempted to add that to my sig...

The powdercoating has been an adventure, which hopefully ends today. I gathered the parts from the new powdercoater (PC) and took them to the one I've used for the rest of this build. The guys that did the panels for this build are competent - if expensive - and I know the color will match. The new local guys earned some kudos by NOT shooting the panels because they couldn't match the color. I had told them to match the color or don't shoot it, and they didn't. Good move. They've earned a shot as a vendor for my next build.

There's a little progress to report, but the pics came out blurry so no visuals at this time. I created a fuel pressure regulator bracket before the HB show from dumpster scrap I found. It had a 90 degree bend in it that a took out with a vice and flat body hammer. But it is good mild steel. I polished up one side and it was the piece I gave to the new PC as a test. When I got it back it had turned a medium-dark yellow on the polished side from the heat of the powder-coating oven. This hadn't happened to any of the panels that the original PC used but I came to learn later that the yellowing should have been expected from steel.

The PC said the parts I dropped off will be ready today. I'm calling a bit later this AM to confirm. He has the trunk and hood pieces that I need before picking up the body. They put a rush on it, which they've never done for me before. But the price reflects it. $230 for 23 SMALL pieces (parking brake, trunk and hood hinges). OUCH.

:)

[David Hodgkins]

Well the PC came through. I got all the parts so I can hang the hood and trunk. Gonna assemble them tonight.

I'm also going to go ahead and close up the footboxes. I was going to keep them open to facilitate carpeting but...

Lastly (for today's reporting), I should be getting some spacers and gaskets for the exhaust tomorrow from Mark at Breeze Automotive (http://BreezeAutomotive.com). Now I can properly set up the side pipes once the body is on. Thanks Mark!

:)

[frankeeski]

Well , redemption came yesterday and Hodgkins actually showed up at Miller's. Here are a few pictures with a bit of commentary.

First a picture of Miller wearing this seasons latest fashion in head wear.
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa78/frankeeski/20150906_120858_zpsld32z06m.jpg (http://s200.photobucket.com/user/frankeeski/media/20150906_120858_zpsld32z06m.jpg.html)
Here Miller is installing the weather seal around the hood opening with Phil (David's brother and the car's owner) in the background with his head down asking WHEN IS LUNCH???!!!
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa78/frankeeski/20150906_125604_zpsqemj8ars.jpg (http://s200.photobucket.com/user/frankeeski/media/20150906_125604_zpsqemj8ars.jpg.html)
A beautiful picture of the painted and striped underside of the hood.
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa78/frankeeski/20150906_125546_zpsyngujezn.jpg (http://s200.photobucket.com/user/frankeeski/media/20150906_125546_zpsyngujezn.jpg.html)
And here is the last picture before it rolled back on to the trailer for it's journey home.http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa78/frankeeski/20150906_135852_zps6lnejaa2.jpg (http://s200.photobucket.com/user/frankeeski/media/20150906_135852_zps6lnejaa2.jpg.html)

[frankeeski]

Did you order fries with that?

Something like this?
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa78/frankeeski/McDonaldsFrenchFries_zpsrtwjvcgg.jpg (http://s200.photobucket.com/user/frankeeski/media/McDonaldsFrenchFries_zpsrtwjvcgg.jpg.html)

[KDubU]

Looks awesome! That colour combo really pops.

[David Hodgkins]

Did you order fries with that?


Something like this?
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa78/frankeeski/McDonaldsFrenchFries_zpsrtwjvcgg.jpg (http://s200.photobucket.com/user/frankeeski/media/McDonaldsFrenchFries_zpsrtwjvcgg.jpg.html)

More like this:
http://www-scf.usc.edu/~jinzheni/images/trojan_logo.jpg

:)

PS Thanks for coming down Frank. U da man.

Full report coming soon.

[68GT500MAN]

Looking great David. Can't wait to see it on the road with color and bling.
Doug

[David Hodgkins]

Here's a recap of last Sunday's trip to the Bat Cave.

First off a small note. I had to make some last minute decisions about how much of the chassis foot box and dash area I wanted to mount permanently. In my mind the body was going to have to come off so I had a lot of clecos holding the dash on, as well as the top and sides of the driver's foot box as well as the outer wall of the passenger foot box. The closer I got to the actual day of the pickup, the more clecos I replaced. It wasn't until an hour after we arrived at Jeff's and he was standing around waiting for me that I finally replaced all the clecos and riveted all the panels in place permanently, including silicone. I guess I was in denial. Now that the body is mounted, all I want to do is get it ready for the Snakes in the grass show coming up at the LA Arboretum October 3rd.

Here's the go-cart on the trailer. One last shot pre-bodied:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45142&d=1441604189

THE BIRTH OF TROJAN

We arrived at Jeff's about 8:45 in the AM and the body was sitting out front. The color is a deep Yellow with Crimson stripes in the colors of USC, my brother's alma mater. My brother owns the TROJAN license plate. He originally wanted to do a yellow with silver stripes and that would have worked nicely with the silver frame but since we are using that plate I thought why not go all in with the college theme? I hope fans of 'SC get a kick out of it and I pray it doesn't get abused by a Bruin fan!

BTW the phone camera is not able to pick up the actual color. Every pic I take shows the body brighter than real life. The shot of the nose below comes pretty close, if you look and the right-hand side of the pic:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45144&d=1441604190

The color really pops in pictures taken in the sunlight:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45143&d=1441604190

Heck, it pops in any light:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45147&d=1441604193

A MAJOR concern was whether I had guessed correctly when deciding where the polished stripes would be on the firewall and trunk wall. When I called Jeff to discuss engine turning the dash He told me to hold off because there was no way to know where the stripes will be! He goes by the body openings, not chassis center like I did. So I was anxious to find out what the final result was.

I lucked out. The stripes are perfectly centered. Check it out:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45153&d=1441604198
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45155&d=1441604200

continued...

:)

[David Hodgkins]

Here are a few more pics of the hood and trunk mounting. These shots give you an idea of how much color shift the camera had. It has a real problem processing yellow!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45157&d=1441604202

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45158&d=1441604203

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45159&d=1441604204

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45164&d=1441604214

The weirdest thing happened while the body was being mounted. Some guy showed up, acted like he knew everybody, and then just stood around with his arms folded like he was wondering when his number was going to be called and mumbling to himself. It was kinda sad, really. Like he was wondering when his body would be painted. A guy like that probably has nightmares about grinding fiberglass and backing up into poles with your door open. Poor guy. He looked homeless...
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45163&d=1441604213

Anyway, back at the shop...
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45166&d=1441604217

continued...

[frankeeski]

The weirdest thing happened while the body was being mounted. Some guy showed up, acted like he knew everybody, and then just stood around with his arms folded like he was wondering when his number was going to be called and mumbling to himself. It was kinda sad, really. Like he was wondering when his body would be painted. A guy like that probably has nightmares about grinding fiberglass and backing up into poles with your door open. Poor guy. He looked homeless...
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45163&d=1441604213


The way I hear it, that handsome dude was the only one that lifted a finger the entire day to help Miller. The rest of the those there just kept asking when lunch was? I here he was given some award or something for being so helpful. :)

[David Hodgkins]

The way I hear it, that handsome dude was the only one that lifted a finger the entire day to help Miller. The rest of the those there just kept asking when lunch was? I here he was given some award or something for being so helpful. :)

Shhhhhh... nobody look! It's one o' dem' der eeenternet trolls! Don't feed the troll!

Now where were we? Oh yeah. Back at the shop...

I put the build to bed with just a few more glamour shots. Still trying to capture that yellow...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45231&d=1441739006
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45230&d=1441739005

In this shot, please note the awkward angle of the passenger side pipe. This became the next project, to fix that issue:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45229&d=1441739003

All tucked in for the night:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45227&d=1441739001

:)

[jceckard]

Is it juvenile to say that it looks like it's having a really nice dream? You can try to tell me to get my mind out of the gutter, but it wouldn't do any good. It's attached to my body.

Very nice, by the way.

[KDubU]

Looks fantastic! Funny I had thought of a similar yellow with pale green stripes but thought that may be a bit bold.

[David Hodgkins]

Is it juvenile to say that it looks like it's having a really nice dream? You can try to tell me to get my mind out of the gutter, but it wouldn't do any good. It's attached to my body.

Very nice, by the way.

I like the way you think ;)


Looks fantastic! Funny I had thought of a similar yellow with pale green stripes but thought that may be a bit bold.

I've seen a yellow with green stripes that was almost day glow. THAT was bold! This is very understated by comparison. Like I said, I can't capture the right color with my cellphone. Sometimes, it freaks out and washes (only) the yellow out completely. Check out this shot of the passenger exhaust after I added a BUNCH of the Breeze exhaust extensions (detailed in my next post):
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45287&d=1441895421

Thanks for the kudos guys and for chiming in. Kyle, that blue on your avatar is awesome. IC you are going 15's. Nice! Do you have your brake kit picked out yet?

[David Hodgkins]

EDIT: I failed to note that these are NOT FFR sidepipes. My mistake. Turns out there is a difference in the measurements in the passenger pipe between GAS-N and FFR pipes. So I've modified the statements below

As it comes from the factory, the FFR passenger CAT is too short (for GASN pipes). After I assembled the go cart and tried to drop the body on, the passenger pipe would not fit through the hole without mounting it low with the pipe sticking out at an angle from the body. I measured the CAT, took pictures of both sides of the chassis and sent it to FFR. The answer I got back from the Tech department was that it was "within spec". Assuming that's true, the spec is wrong (not true. I changed pipes and failed to check the difference). But with the addition of over 1-1/4" worth of spacers from Breeze the pipe exits the body high and tight, just like the driver's side.

Here is how the pipes fit on the chassis without any extra spacers. Here's the driver's side. Nice separation from the chassis so the pipe can run parallel to the body:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43151&d=1435706936

And here is the passenger side. The pipe starts to turn way before it gets to the body and is way too close to the chassis:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=43152&d=1435706937

Here's the resulting look when you try to mount the body:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45164&d=1441604214
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45229&d=1441739003

Now, you can get the pipe a little closer to the body. A little. What usually happens is you either enlarge the hole or the pipe ends up touching the body. This is how my MKIII is set up (EDIT: Guess what? GASN pipes...). So you can kind of fix it up. Make it close. but it's not ever really "correct", IMO.

continued...

:)

[David Hodgkins]

Continued...

To fix the passenger side pipe droop issue I got in touch with Mark Reynolds at Breeze automotive and he sent out a PLETHORA of inserts to use to in effect lengthen the passenger CAT. Three 1/4" straight inserts and three wedges. "Start with this and send me back what you don't use" he said. I bought 4 new 2-1/2" bolts and took the whole pile - plus another gasket - and bolted it up. Yeah, I know, I need to clean those pipes:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45277&d=1441895409

Wow, the difference is night and day. Look at the way the pipe fits now!

Passenger side:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45276&d=1441895407

Driver's side:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45281&d=1441895414

Passenger side body exit:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45278&d=1441895410

Driver's side body exit:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45280&d=1441895412

The passenger side pipe, fixed:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45287&d=1441895421

:)

[David Hodgkins]

Here's last night's work:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45323&d=1441985538

Funny thing about the marker lights... I couldn't see a way to mount them so that the little plastic fins on the light could line up vertical and horizontal. It bugs me that they are offset and crooked:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45321&d=1441985536

I guess the easiest solution is to re drill the mounting holes?

:)

[Jeff Kleiner]

David,
Ya' need a set of "O" rings for those marker lights---tell Miller I said so ;)

Give me a shout when you have a minute to chat (812)327-zero393.

Jeff

[KDubU]

I like the way you think ;)



I've seen a yellow with green stripes that was almost day glow. THAT was bold! This is very understated by comparison. Like I said, I can't capture the right color with my cellphone. Sometimes, it freaks out and washes (only) the yellow out completely. Check out this shot of the passenger exhaust after I added a BUNCH of the Breeze exhaust extensions (detailed in my next post):
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45287&d=1441895421

Thanks for the kudos guys and for chiming in. Kyle, that blue on your avatar is awesome. IC you are going 15's. Nice! Do you have your brake kit picked out yet?


David,

I believe it's Viking Blue unless someone smarter than me can correct that. Yes going with 15's, likely MT's as the Avons are pricey. Brakes are coming from Gordon, should have the rears Monday and the fronts had a shipping problem. Can't wait as I have two weeks of no work to get a lot done hopefully.

Interesting about the cats and Gas-N pipes. Was going to go with cats but they are not required here but did get Gas-N pipes and headers. May change that in the future so it's good to know about this issue. Mark from Breeze is great and I have a number of things I have on my wish list on the Breeze site.

I guess someday when I am out that way on business I'll have to see the yellow in person as you are right the pics seem to change the color.

[David Hodgkins]

Kyle, if you need any reference pics of my Wilwoods let me know. I got mine from Gordon, although that was early 2008.

Just for reference I wanted to show a couple more shots of the pipe mounts.

Driver's side:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45283&d=1441895416

Passenger side:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45284&d=1441895417

This past weekend was a busy one, not all of it build related. I installed a new PC at my FIL's house and updated it to Windows 10. When they tell you on the screen to sit back and relax, they actually mean go get lunch and come back later! Other than that though, it upgraded no problem and found the local printer, installed the drivers set it as the default before I tried to print to it. So on a new machine install, the upgrade was flawless. I'm not so eager to try that to my development machine at work though!

Back at the shop, I took the rest of the powder coated parts I got back last week and assembled the Emergency Brake handle. I had never done one before, as my first build has a Lokar handle mounted on the top of the trans tunnel. I decided to go the factory route this time. I am getting some interference from the bolts that hold the outer part of the handle to the inner actuating part. Both bolts scrape against the tunnel. If anyone has a remedy for this please let me know. Otherwise I guess I'll be cutting some aluminum...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45413&d=1442237977

In this pic you can see how the handle is already skewed at an angle to the rest of the mechanism. Something here needs to change:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45414&d=1442237978

The rest of the install was just setting up the cables. I'll upload a few pics in a bit of that. I routed the cable around the outside or the shock. I don't want the cable to interfere with the shock springs and I was thinking of using safety wire to secure the cable to the base of the shock. Does that sound like a decent solution?

I also fixed a small routing issue I had with the trunk light harness (I hadn't secured it) and set up the fuel filler/lemans cap connection. I drilled/tapped a hole for a 1/4" bolt in the frame forward of where the splash guard will mount and removed some powder coat around the hole for the gas intake grounding strap. The grounding strap will have to go around the splash guard but it was the closest spot I cold see that had direct access to the frame steel. Everywhere else close by was aluminum-covered:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45416&d=1442237980

The fuel-to-gas-tank connection is so much nicer than my MKIII! Nice re-design. It went together in a snap and the Lemans cap accepts a normal size gas cap which is nice:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45418&d=1442237982

:)

[Jeff Kleiner]

RE: the handle bolts rubbing aluminum--- install them from the other direction. The button heads won't protrude as much.

Jeff

[David Hodgkins]

RE: the handle bolts rubbing aluminum--- install them from the other direction. The button heads won't protrude as much.

Jeff

Yeah, I thought about that. It will help a little... I wonder if I bend the bracket if that will help?

Last night I drilled all the holes in the new seat brackets. The first ones I made had to be scrapped. These only have the one set of holes and I'm thinking of powdercoating them black, to fade into the carpet:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45444&d=1442326213

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45443&d=1442326212

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45442&d=1442326211

:)

[David Hodgkins]

I didn't really do a lot yesterday. I took the seat brackets to the local powdercoater. I like these guys because they are small, seem to do a good job and are way less expensive than the other place that is 20 miles away. I'm just having them shot in black to blend in to the carpet.

Other than that, I just cleaned the shop until I got a call about "stuff" at home and used that as an excuse to take the rest of the night off. Believe it or not, this is "clean":
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45226&d=1441739000

I'll be getting the brackets back before Friday. With any luck the lights will be functional by then and I'll be working on the new dash. This weekend the windshield should be going in and I'll have less than 2 weeks to finish up details before the Arboretum show.

:)

[David Hodgkins]

Well hello again, I spent most of the weekend at the shop and was able to get a few things done...

On Saturday I tore apart the temporary das dash in preparation of finally engine turning and installing the custom dash. I also changed out the front quick jacks (AKA shin bashers) for over riders and the front bumper hoop. The dash harness needed a bit of a wire diet so it was nice to organize and simplify the wiring a bit. It's still a rats nest, but not quite as bad. I'll work on cleaning up the runs as I get ready to put the dash in.

I decided to go full dress on the front and it turned out really nice. Not a difficult job to do so no in-progress shots, just these three shots of the finished product:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45597&d=1442849780

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45599&d=1442849782

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45598&d=1442849781

I'll be adding a shroud for the opening. I'm planning to make it a wrap-around and will be adding some engine turning with stripes to it. If I get the rest of the car prepped for October 3rd I'll try adding that piece otherwise it will have to wait until later in October before I get to it. I would like to note how once again the kit improved from MKII to MKIV. The bumper is even side to side and the over riders extend from the body the same distance, which fixes a problem with pre MKIV's.

After I installed the bumper I spent some time trying to attach wires to the coupe tail lights I have and it was a minor disaster. I'll open a separate thread to discuss the issue I'm having...

The last thing I did on Saturday was to set up and start the dash engine turning, which I'll describe in the next post...

:)

[David Hodgkins]

Late Saturday and through Sunday I worked on the dash. I've always wanted the dash to have some type of pattern... I wanted to do a racing stripe but the reflection from the sun made that impossible. I did some experimentation with reversing the pattern of the engine turning that resulted in a cool 3-d effect of the stripes so I decided to move forward with that stratagy. The only thing I changed was the way I taped off the stripes. In the test piece the stripes had a very small demarcation line showed up between the stripes. I decided to tape off the piece to eliminate that line. The procedure was a success but the resulting pattern is - IMO - too subtle. I'd HATE to do this over, especially since it doesn't involve a real "mistake"! I'm looking for some feedback on how you think this dash looks, so be honest and let me know what you think.

I have tons of pics in my album, but here are some that stand out from the rest. Here's a detailed shot of the outer pin stripes:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45606&d=1442871606

And here's several shots of the whole dash:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45615&d=1442871619

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45607&d=1442871607

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45610&d=1442871611

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45611&d=1442871612

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45638&d=1442871656

What do you think?

:)

[Al_C]

I'm a Big 10 fan, but this car is absolutely stunning! Incredible job, David!

[Jazzman]

Ok, David, I'll be the first to pick up your challenge. (Just remember, opinions are like navels - everybody's got one!) I love engine turning, and I love all the amazing work you have done on this car. I even considered doing an engine turned dash. Now having seeing it, I have two observations. 1) I am very worried that the glare off that beautiful dash would require the driver to wear welding goggles! 2) I agree with you: the stripes are too subtle. They don't stand out as stripes, but rather look like the pattern got confused at that point. It is, however, a pretty amazing optical illusion. They really do look like they are 3 dimensional!

[David Hodgkins]

Ok, David, I'll be the first to pick up your challenge. (Just remember, opinions are like navels - everybody's got one!) I love engine turning, and I love all the amazing work you have done on this car. I even considered doing an engine turned dash. Now having seeing it, I have two observations. 1) I am very worried that the glare off that beautiful dash would require the driver to wear welding goggles! 2) I agree with you: the stripes are too subtle. They don't stand out as stripes, but rather look like the pattern got confused at that point. It is, however, a pretty amazing optical illusion. They really do look like they are 3 dimensional!

I'm going to go ahead and mount this dash because I have a show in 12 days - ACK! - and after that I'll re-assess the dash situation. I have an engine turned bezel around my gauges on my car and it's definitely bright but not overwhelming. I'll just have to see if the dash is too bright, and if it is I'll just do another one.

Thanks for the honest opinion though I appreciate the feedback.

:)

[David Hodgkins]

Yesterday I found a local place that had a nice 14" air cleaner. It has "COBRA" stamped on the top and it seems nice and sturdy. The filter element is yellow, which is a nice bonus:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45709&d=1442932272

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45705&d=1442932269

I also started mounting the splash guards on the front. Can you believe it's been 9 years since I got my first kit and I STILL haven't mounted them?!? These fit very nicely out of the gate and should be done this evening:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45710&d=1442932272

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45712&d=1442932274

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45711&d=1442932273

:)

[68GT500MAN]

David, you asked for opinions on the dash, so here is mine. I do NOT like the current dash! The stripes get lost and it makes me dizzy looking for them. I like the way you did the other panels much better.
Doug

[6t8dart]

i agree with the stripes looking odd, maybe paint on red stripes, leave the rest engine turned?

[kkcalm5]

David
I like the engine turn on the dash but like others not sure about the stripes
just a thought what about doing the stripes in the red down thru the dash? with the engine turn for the rest (yellow area)
by the way the car is fantastic, your work is unbelievable, keep it up
Kevin

[David Hodgkins]

What do you guys think of this?

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45716&d=1442950771

I've been thinking of ways to try and save it too. What do you think of an ultra-fine matching yellow and cardinal pinstripes outlining the stripes?

[David Hodgkins]

I tried a mockup in paint that looked like... but what about a fine silver pinstripe to break up the stripes?

[jceckard]

What about paint over the turning with candy paint to match body and stripe color?

[David Hodgkins]

What about paint over the turning with candy paint to match body and stripe color?

Hmm....

I don't think that would work. I've already applied the sharkhide.

[6t8dart]

sharkhide can be removed with lacquer thinner according to their website.

[CDXXVII]

Dave

How about masking and running scotch brite on the strips for a brushed finish. Or even a Polished finish. Kind of a compliment to the firewall.

[Joe Procopio]

Wow, great work David.

[David Hodgkins]

Dave

How about masking and running scotch brite on the strips for a brushed finish. Or even a Polished finish. Kind of a compliment to the firewall.

I can't go polished in the cockpit. I tried creating a brushed look with scotch bright and media blasting but I didn't like the look. I'm going to use the current dash for the Arboretum show on Oct. 3rd and will revisit the issue after that. I simply don't have the time to do it now, especially if I have any hope of putting in carpet and finishing up all the other details I'm working on. I only have 8 days left!


Wow, great work David.

Thank you sir!

:)

[David Hodgkins]

Yesterday I finally found an upholstery shop near my build shop that has the time to lay in the cockpit carpet. I'll be dropping it off on Monday and will get it back Wednesday. Which means two of my prep days are now shot!

Last night I finished putting on the front splash guards. It's hard to see in this shot with all the reflections but what you DON'T see is the wheel:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45896&d=1443124791

...and I also added in the under-door aluminum:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45897&d=1443124792

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45899&d=1443124793

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45897&d=1443124792

:)

[David Hodgkins]

Last night I went out and found some sound dampening material for the cockpit. I'm going to install it myself before giving the car to the carpet guy. I returned to the shop and proceeded with the install. First I cleaned up the whole cockpit, took out the seat belts and brackets and moved most of the dash wiring out of the way. I also turned around the two bolts on the e-brake arm as suggested by Jeff Kleiner. Simple fix, and no more rubbing.

These are the last pics of the silver aluminum cockpit, with all my perfect rivet patterns showing. That's a funny part about the build. I took the time to measure, center and align all those rivets only so that I could slap these sound panels on top of them and hide all that "craftmanship" forever. Hey, I guess that's part of what build pics are for... sniff, sniff:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45936&d=1443187646

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45940&d=1443187649

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45941&d=1443187650

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45942&d=1443187651

Now with that out of the way I moved on to installing the Hushmat. It's the typical foil and tar-like goop backing. The interesting thing about it is that the foil is black. That's pretty cool because that's a perfect color for underneath black carpet.

I used a 5/8" hollow center punch to create the holes for the seat bracket mounting bolts:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45944&d=1443187653

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45945&d=1443187654

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45946&d=1443187655

Looks like I'll finish the Hushmat install today. That leaves the weekend to put on the rear splashguards, rear bumper, make an under-dash panel, wire the lights and install the windshield. I'll put the dash back together after I get the car back from carpet.

BTW I opened the windshield box for the first time last night. It's been sitting for over 4 years. No crack! (Hey, ya never know).

[Jeff Kleiner]

...BTW I opened the windshield box for the first time last night. It's been sitting for over 4 years.

Wow, pretty gutsy to go all the way through paint without a test fit to check the location, size and shape of the factory cut windshield post holes!

Jeff

[David Hodgkins]

Wow, pretty gutsy to go all the way through paint without a test fit to check the location, size and shape of the factory cut windshield post holes!

Jeff

Yeah but even if I have to do a little cutting none of it will show...


I hope.

:)

[David Hodgkins]

oh BTW I forgot: Jeff used a piece of metal shaped like a windshield post to check the holes...

:)

[David Hodgkins]

Tonight's progress...

I was rudely interrupted by my brother who showed up to pay the deposit on the carpet install and he forced me to go to dinner at the Bluewater Grill in Newport. (nom nom) I made the most of my predicament by ordering the steamed clams which were amazing. But still. Valet cost me $3. Oh well.

I made my retreat back to the shop and made progress but didn't finish the Hushmat install. I'm probably 3 hrs behind starting tomorrow. Precious few day left!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45956&d=1443244473

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45957&d=1443244474

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45958&d=1443244475

:)

[KDubU]

Pressure is on David, get er done!

[David Hodgkins]

It's been a LONG weekend!

I spent all Saturday and part of Sunday laying out the sound mat for the carpet install that starts today. I also installed the lic. plate holder and built, installed and wired up the Coupe tail lights. The brake pedal has been pushed so far forward that the tail light switch is engaged full time. I took the lights out as to not waste the battery. I also took time to clean the shop and had the car outside for the first time since getting back from Miller's.

Here's a bunch of shots of last weekend's work...

Almost completely covered. I got that last little bit by the door striker after this shot was taken:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45985&d=1443322586

I included this dark shot because it's the closest I've seen to the actual body color in a pic:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45992&d=1443322592

Let's face it: this stuff is just ugly. I do like the nice "thunk" the panels make when you rap them with your knuckles now though!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45988&d=1443322588

Installed the rear splash guards:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46047&d=1443450925

FINALLY put the spinners on!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=45993&d=1443322593

Coupe tail lights and Lic. plack bracket installed. It's nice working at eye level! Looks like I'll have to drop the tank to install the bumper...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46045&d=1443450924

Finally seeing the light of day...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46043&d=1443450922

Somehow I got the car to the upholsterer 2 blocks away. I pushed it. Yeah, that's it. I pushed it...

[CDXXVII]

oh BTW I forgot: Jeff used a piece of metal shaped like a windshield post to check the holes...

:)

Dave

Let me know how the windshield goes. Mine has got me a bit freaked out. :confused: I have two pieces of metal that are shaped like the windshield posts clamped in place through body openings that I massaged a bit to get them to fit. Only issue is that the simulated legs are NOT the same as the windshield when the factory legs are attached. In my case the windshield legs are splayed out (pigeon toed \ / ) to where the holes in the body will have to be closer together in the rear as apposed to the front. (Not Parallel) They are also a bit wider apart on the windshield than the mounting points on the frame. Right now it looks like I will have to bend the legs parallel to one another and also try and twist the legs square to one another. Otherwise you are looking at shims and pretty big openings in the body. I keep poking around on the forum and am still not comfortable with getting it done.

I am hoping you get this done so I can copy you and worry less. Selfish I know, but you are under the gun and I am just cruising along. :cool:

[David Hodgkins]

Dave

Let me know how the windshield goes. Mine has got me a bit freaked out. :confused: I have two pieces of metal that are shaped like the windshield posts clamped in place through body openings that I massaged a bit to get them to fit. Only issue is that the simulated legs are NOT the same as the windshield when the factory legs are attached. In my case the windshield legs are splayed in (pigeon toed / \ ) to where the holes in the body will have to be closer together in the front as apposed to the rear. (Not Parallel) They are also a bit wider apart on the windshield than the mounting points on the frame. Right now it looks like I will have to bend the legs parallel to one another and also try and twist the legs square to one another. Otherwise you are looking at shims and pretty big openings in the body. I keep poking around on the forum and am still not comfortable with getting it done.

I am hoping you get this done so I can copy you and worry less. Selfish I know, but you are under the gun and I am just cruising along. :cool:

Marcel I'll let you know what's what later this week.

The car is off to the carpet guy so I get a few "days off". They asked me to stop by today to check on the progress so I might get a pic then. But I'l just be puttering around the shop, giving it a good cleaning.

Hurry up and wait...

:)

[David Hodgkins]

Just a quick update today.

Checked in on the carpet install yesterday. Should be able to pick it up today!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46145&d=1443643447

:)

[David Hodgkins]

I did indeed pick up the roadster yesterday. The carpet came out great!

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46180&d=1443715896

After I got it back to the shop and on the lift I used the integrated scissor lift to drop the tank so I could mount the rear bumper. I gotta say, everyone who builds one of these cars should have a lift! They make jobs like dropping the fuel tank a snap to do. I've lowered the tank several times before with a floor jack and it can get pretty sketchy but not so with a lift.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46173&d=1443715891

Here's the bumper installed:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46179&d=1443715895

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46192&d=1443715911

I also mounted the seat brackets and put the floor mats in:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46190&d=1443715909

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46187&d=1443715903

After I mount the seats today I'll start prepping the dash for install. I don't have a glove box made yet so I will just mount the door for now and take it back apart next week to finish that project.

Oh yeah, I also have this to install...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46195&d=1443715915

[David Hodgkins]

Just wanted to add this:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46193&d=1443715913

It's getting close! Will it be ready for Saturday???

We are loading it on a trailer tonight so that we can take it to th CHP tomorrow to have the frame # assigned as the VIN. Wish us luck!

:)

[wallace18]

Car looks fantastic David! Do you do anything special with the seats due to your height?

[Jeff Kleiner]

The carpet looks REALLY nice! Since you have to do both anyway you'll find it much easier to get to the driver's side windshield bolts if you install it before the dash (if you wanna' make the passenger side easy remove the tire and splash panel). Looking forward to seeing it all together :)

Jeff

[David Hodgkins]

Car looks fantastic David! Do you do anything special with the seats due to your height?

No not really. They are just mounted really low in the bracket and pushed back as they'll go. The Kirkey racing seats give ~2" additional leg room. Add in the adjustable Wilwoods and I have ~4" additional leg room...


The carpet looks REALLY nice! Since you have to do both anyway you'll find it much easier to get to the driver's side windshield bolts if you install it before the dash (if you wanna' make the passenger side easy remove the tire and splash panel). Looking forward to seeing it all together :)

Jeff


Good tips Jeff, thanks!

My bro Phil is taking the roadster to the CHP this AM to get the VIN assigned and this afternoon is the BIG push to mount the dash and windshield before the show tomorrow. Looks like I won't get to do the fan shroud in time but having this show come up really forced us to get a lot of work done this week...

:)

[David Hodgkins]

CHP VIN assignment went off without a hitch! And in more good news, Eric Hansen was at Jeff Miller's this AM and brought this by my work on the way home:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46228&d=1443817760

Today is the last day to prep for the Serpents in the Garden Show TOMORROW. I have to JB Weld hinges and a closure clasp on my dash, attach the louvers, assemble and mount the windshield and re-install the dash TONIGHT ACK!

:)

[KDubU]

Hat is great news David! Really loving that paint now with everything together.

[David Hodgkins]

The Serpents in the Garden show was a great success! You can read about it here (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?19086-Serpents-In-The-Garden-LA-Arboretum-2015).

I took Sunday and yesterday off to recharge my batteries and will get back to work today. The louvers never made it on the build (sorry Jeff!) and the only thing hooked up to the dash was the ignition so that's coming back out today.

Just because, here's a few shots of the roadster at Saturday's event:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46334&d=1444021000

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46330&d=1444020995

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46324&d=1444020987

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=46328&d=1444020993

:)

[QSL]

Looks AWESOME in person!