Insulation/sound deadener confusion

[RdstrRod]

OK, I am now a Build School Graduate and anticipating the arrival of my complete kit next month. I have decided to purchase some things in advance and am currently thinking about Insulation/Sound Deadeners. There's Damplifier, Dynamat, Lizardskin, Sharkhide,Truck Bedliner, Zero Clearance, and probably a bunch of others that I've missed. Which are the best? Which are easiest to apply? Interior vs. exterior applications? If it makes any difference, this car will be a SE Michigan street cruiser with a Heater/Defroster & Cobra Earl Fresh Air Vents. Also, I do not plan to powder coat any of the alloy panels.
Regards, Rod

[Desert Cobra]

Rod: I used gorilla skin on the inside of panels and 12x12 thermal mats at the front lower part of foot box and tunnel. The panels that I truck bed sprayed didn't work even with scuffing. Only tar based wheel well undercoating stayed on. As to engine bay side, if I could do it again, I would powder coat. If you really want more thermal control try header wrap on the two pipes closest to the foot box. I also thought about using a second panel with a space between, which is how most modern cars do it.

[edwardb]

Where in SE Michigan? I'm in Lake Orion and have a Mk4 about 50-60% done. You're welcome to check it out if you like. This is my build thread, if you haven't seen it: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?8296-Mk4-7750-Build-Progress-Update

My Mk3 is in storage and (hopefully!) will come out of hibernation before too long. I used Lizard Skin on both of my builds, on the inside of the panels. I like how it goes on, seals everything up, and certainly does its job for heat and sound. Pictures of the process are in my build thread. But others including the brands you mention are possibilities as well. Part of the answer to your question though depends on the engine and header choices you're making. Some are much tighter than others and may require more aggressive measures. Both of my builds are small blocks with FFR 4-into-4 headers and side pipes. So adequate clearance that I didn't feel any need for insulation on the outside. Extensive cruising in the Mk3 and no heat issues to speak of. It's very comfortable.

Personally, I'd recommend you do something to the aluminum other than leave it natural. Powder coating isn't necessarily cheap and it does add somewhat to the work. There are other choices. I've just seen a few builds that were left natural and after a few years I'm not a fan of the look. But that's me. Good luck with your build.

[QSL]

fat mat user here. Cheap and easy. Going to use it on the coupe.

[Avalanche325]

This is a tough one because everyone can tell you what they have used. However, there are few, if any, comparisons out there. Maybe a couple of people that have built more than one car, but then they seem to use the same product.

The only thing I have heard on the bad side is with one of the asphalt based ones sort of melting and making a mess.

One thing that helped me decide was how much some of this stuff weighs. One of the big deals about a Cobra is that it only weighs around 2200 lbs. Some of this stuff is actually pretty heavy. I went with EZ-Cool because it is lightweight and inexpensive. Just to add to the confusion.

[fordboy]

Hey Edwards.. Sorry to hijack the insulation thread...but can you briefly explain to me the benefit of the 7/16 rod cplngs on the rear q.j. mounts ?? I haven't taken the body off the frame yet and I don't follow the reference to tank removal etc. Thks, Bob.

[fordboy]

Not sure if my question about rod cplngs got to you, Edwardb. Please let me know. Bob

[edwardb]

Hey Edwards.. Sorry to hijack the insulation thread...but can you briefly explain to me the benefit of the 7/16 rod cplngs on the rear q.j. mounts ?? I haven't taken the body off the frame yet and I don't follow the reference to tank removal etc. Thks, Bob.

The through bolts used to hold quick jacks, over riders, etc. require you to insert them from the back of the mounts. This can't be done with the fuel tank in place because it blocks the location. This was a challenge on the Mk3, but with a little work you could get them in. On the Mk4, with everything even tighter back there, it's impossible. With the couplings in place you can mount the tank and not drop it to bolt on quick jacks, etc. There are threads that describe this in more detail, but that's the general idea and reason.

[68GT500MAN]

Like QSL I used FatMat in both my roadster and Hot Rod builds. I have used DynaMat before when restoring a 68 California Special and the two are the same in my opinion. The tipping point for me was that FatMat is less than 1/2 the price of the DynaMat!
Doug

[skullandbones]

Summit sells a clone of Dynamat. I have seen both and really can't tell the difference. They both go on nicely. As long as you get the different layers (various types of insulation are better than one) like rubber based and foil cover. My acid test is the "thud test". If it takes that tinny sound out of the area, it is going to muffle the sound. At the header locations right next to the front of each foot box, I think a standoff heat shield of aluminum would be a added buffer and well worth the effort (not that hard to do).

Thanks,

WEK.