Just took delivery of my 33

[Foristell]

Well now the fun begins. My youngest son wants to help so he can learn a bit about cars. This should keep me busy for a while. I wanted to ask if anyone has recommendations as to paint or powder coat steel parts such as the inner door structure that are not visible?

Thanks,

[68GT500MAN]

Congratulations on the delivery of your project. I just took all of the uncoated steel pieces to my local shop and had them all powder coated to match the frame. I know most will never be seen, but I got a really good price on the batch.
Doug

[Tim Whittaker]

I'm a powder coat fan as well. It's very durable but it does cost more. Like Doug says, in a batch, it might not be too bad for cost.

We have a number of products available for the 33. I invite you to take a look at our web site: kootenaivalleycustoms.com.

Welcome aboard !!!!



Congratulations on the delivery of your project. I just took all of the uncoated steel pieces to my local shop and had them all powder coated to match the frame. I know most will never be seen, but I got a really good price on the batch.
Doug

[Foristell]

I was leaning toward powder coating. In the long run I will be probably glad I did.

[H R Lucky]

Congratulations on the delivery of your 33, I also got all of my raw steel parts powder coated, even though you can't see some of it, things like the door frame inside the door; I would think it will still rust just from the humidity in the air.

[rcotner]

I had the frame and most of the suspension parts powder coated. I have a black and red theme and am using rustoleum for the black parts. It cost me about 500 bucks so far in powder coat costs but I am very happy with the results. Have fun with your project! Warning, these cars are addictive!

[BrentM]

I am painting my concealed parts with POR15, I think this stuff is more durable than powder coating. I am also using it to touch up my powder coat. If they are exposed to the sun they need to be top coated. I did have my frame powder coated by FFR, but there are some spots that are pealing up and rusting. These are getting POR15 and it is hard to tell the difference.

[Foristell]

Is that an epoxy type of paint? Where do you get that from?

Thanks

[DaveSL33]

I just took delivery of my 33 as well and I am using the POR15 coating. There are a couple of videos online on its use. I believe there was an episode on Two Guys Garage. Its extreamly durable and when cures results in a nice smooth finish. One thing to remember is to wear gloves. This stuff will not wash off your skin. Another is it is not UV protected so if your parts are exposed to sun light, you will need to buy the spray top coating to keep it shinny. I powerder coated the front suspension parts, but I'm very pleased with the results so far on the rear end and door parts.

[Arrowhead]

Just a caution about the POR-15. You do know it means "Paint Over Rust" right? Bare clean steel is it's Kryptonite and will flake and peel of unless you prep the surface properly according to POR's requirements meaning their etching product or sand blasting. It needs something with texture to grab on.

[frankeeski]

Congrat! Now the fun begins indeed.

[DaveSL33]

Arrowhead - Thanks for the heads up on that. You're right. Here's the link that I used as reference before electing to use this product:

http://coolfj40.stores.yahoo.net/porfreqasque.html

Hope it helps. By the way, I enjoyed reading your postings on your build site. Lots of great info that will definately help me with my build.

Dave

[Arrowhead]

Thanks, I'm glad it was helpful. BTW, I found the best way to preserve POR-15 in the can is to never open it (maybe once when you first get it to stir). Instead drill self taping screws into the can, one at the top and one at the bottom. That way you can remove the screws and pour out the bottom and the top one serves as a vent. Screw them back in and it makes it air tight. Not sure why that works better than removing the lid, but I have a quart that's about 5 years old and I can still pour from it. I only got about 3/4 a can used up before it would harden up on me before I started using this method.

[BrentM]

Thanks, I'm glad it was helpful. BTW, I found the best way to preserve POR-15 in the can is to never open it (maybe once when you first get it to stir). Instead drill self taping screws into the can, one at the top and one at the bottom. That way you can remove the screws and pour out the bottom and the top one serves as a vent. Screw them back in and it makes it air tight. Not sure why that works better than removing the lid, but I have a quart that's about 5 years old and I can still pour from it. I only got about 3/4 a can used up before it would harden up on me before I started using this method.

That is an awesome Idea, I am going to try that on my next can. Thanks!

[WIS89]

Thanks, I'm glad it was helpful. BTW, I found the best way to preserve POR-15 in the can is to never open it (maybe once when you first get it to stir). Instead drill self taping screws into the can, one at the top and one at the bottom. That way you can remove the screws and pour out the bottom and the top one serves as a vent. Screw them back in and it makes it air tight. Not sure why that works better than removing the lid, but I have a quart that's about 5 years old and I can still pour from it. I only got about 3/4 a can used up before it would harden up on me before I started using this method.

Another way to preserve the paint is to inject some lighter fluid into the can. This displaces the oxygen and prevents the paint from "curing" in the can. When this paint comes into contact with air, it begins to cure, and it is why you find a thick, nearly impossible to penetrate "crust" on the top layer of the paint. I have also used the machine screw solution and am satisfied with either method.
I like the idea of powder coating what can be seen, and using the POR-15 on steel that you cannot. As mentioned above, their prep product is a step that shouldn't be skipped.

Good luck with your '33!!

Regards,

Steve

[JosephJohnson33]

Congratulations on the delivery! I'm living vicariously through the builds on the forms :)

[erlihemi]

Thought I would chime in on the POR15. I've had failures with either powder coat or POR15 if the surface prep isn't good. For powder coating the smaller stuff myself I have gotten in the habit of preheating the bare steel and letting it cool off slowly in the oven before applying the powder. This drives off any volatiles and moisture from crevices. I have found the POR15 chassis coat actually more forgiving, and I believe, more durable than powder coat underneath the car. It may be because I'm getting a thicker film with multiple coats of the POR15. In either case I have stuff over 15 years old with both methods. POR15 is not UV resistant and you must follow the instructions!! I had one project get delayed a year and everything that faced the south garage window had to be redone. Also some body and paint guys hate to see POR15 on a car because they are not used to working with it.