Goldwing's 818 Street, The Phoenix

[Goldwing]

Hi everyone. I received my kit this last Monday and have been digging out through the inventory and storing the body panels all week. Today was my first day of forward progress, a single whopping panel, lol, but it seemed fitting to start my build thread on the same day I started the build itself.

For a little history, my project was born from medical problems that led me to sell my Honda Goldwing. An unknown complication after an epidural steroid injection and subsequent spinal leak has left me with constant dizziness, frequent migraines, and blurry vision. The docs don't know what happened yet. All of the above is career halting, and possibly ending, for me as a young pilot. Dizzy motorcycle riding isn't a really good idea either, so after 2 years, I sold the bike. I don't mention that for any sympathy, just background. The cool silver lining has been the opportunity to break from tradition and be a stay-at-home dad for our daughter, Elani, who was born one month after this started. A really perfect distraction, as is, my projects. Enter, the 818. The 818 is my replacement for the Goldwing, thus, the handle, avatar, or whatever you call it.

For the car, due to some limitations from the above, I opted to use 818 donors to source the wrx and check the parts. I lucked out with an '07 with only 42k miles. Though, of course, that cost a little more. So here we go guys, another 818 S rising from the ashes of a wrecked WRX. The Phoenix.

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[Goldwing]

Saved

[Goldwing]

Saved for after photo. :)

[Goldwing]

I have only gotten a few things done prepping the donor since receiving it in August. My priority was finishing a kayak project first to open up the needed garage space. A new timing belt kit and cleaning/painting a few brackets, and, um, inspired by Mechie, the alternator was about it. (I hope I attributed that correctly).

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[Goldwing]

For perspective, that's a 10' tree in the kayak pic.

Anyway, the journey begins. Looking forward to working through our projects together.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

For perspective, that's a 10' tree in the kayak pic.

Anyway, the journey begins. Looking forward to working through our projects together.

Hey Goldwing,
That kayak looks very hydrodynamic. Do you have an engineering Background?

Will your 818 see any track time with Nelson Ledges and Mid-Ohio tracks both with in an hour drive?
Bob

[Mechie3]

That kayak looks awesome!

[AZPete]

I agree, awesome kayak. Does this mean next Christmas we'll see an 818 trimmed in lights? :eek:

[Goldwing]

Thanks for the kayak compliments. I put the last coat of varnish on in December, just in time for the lakes to freeze, so I am enjoying it the best way I can, lol. Thus, by family demand, the Christmas kayak. No engineering background, the design came from Nick Schade's book "The Strip Built Kayak." I followed his book much the same way we will follow FFR's build manual for the 818. Just different materials on a blank slate.

Not sure about track days yet, but I do foresee a few events. Likely just amateur hour events for fun.

AZPete, you just might! :)

[Goldwing]

Ok, where's global warming when you need it? Can I order some? It's been in the teens or colder since my kit arrived! I can't paint the bare steel brackets. So far, the front firewall is done and I've started on the axles. Inners are done, waiting for grease. Ill probably dig the rear axles out next to finish the outer CV, it's only getting colder according to the forecast. I dug out an old aquarium heater to keep the simple green bucket from freezing, lol.

This is all new territory for me, if you guys think of any newB common mistakes on axes or ball joints, speak up!! I must have lent out my torch, I can't find it to get the upright off the ball-joint knuckle. That sucker won't budge.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Ok, where's global warming when you need it? Can I order some? It's been in the teens or colder since my kit arrived! I can't paint the bare steel brackets. So far, the front firewall is done and I've started on the axles. Inners are done, waiting for grease. Ill probably dig the rear axles out next to finish the outer CV, it's only getting colder according to the forecast. I dug out an old aquarium heater to keep the simple green bucket from freezing, lol.

This is all new territory for me, if you guys think of any newB common mistakes on axes or ball joints, speak up!! I must have lent out my torch, I can't find it to get the upright off the ball-joint knuckle. That sucker won't budge.

Hey Goldwing
On my first car I worked 8 hours to get the ball joint out of the spindle.
On my second car I watch a guy pull them out in 5 minutes with the proper tool.
Take it to a Subaru shop and get both done for 20 bucks.
Or buy your own tool for $140
Bob25625

Maybe Mechie3 will start selling this tool.
Has FFR thought about a rent-a-tool program.
Flare tool comes to mind.

[Goldwing]

Wow, thanks. I haven't even gotten the retaining bolt out yet, lol. Soaking in penetrating oil now, but it seems that missing torch is going to be needed. Then, I think I'll follow your advice from there Bob.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Wow, thanks. I haven't even gotten the retaining bolt out yet, lol. Soaking in penetrating oil now, but it seems that missing torch is going to be needed. Then, I think I'll follow your advice from there Bob.

loosen a few degrees, then tighten a few degrees, repeat many times. The will gradually break the rust down the bolt. Spray into the slot and the far end of the bolt as you go.
If you just try an loosen, it will probably brake off.
Heat is your friend.
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

broke one of mine off. drill, soak, heat easy out be patient

[Goldwing]

Well, one ball joint retaining bolt came out cleanly, one did not, and broke off. Drilling it out was successful, but time consuming, especially after the dumb move I made. Despite knowing better, I tried a bolt extractor which broke waaaay too easily, but was very, very slow to drill out. Ugh, I deserved that. Drilling mission accomplished with threads cleaned out.

A tie rod end remover (autozone oem 27175, OTC 7315a) proved to be friend tonight to pop the right LCA off the ball joint and push out the wheel studs. My wheels need 10mm spacers and longer 50mm studs. I don't like hammering them out on cars these days. They just seem too easily damaged.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Well, one ball joint retaining bolt came out cleanly, one did not, and broke off.

Hi Goldwing
On one of mine that broke, I was not able to save the thread.
I drilled it out to 7/16, Then used a 7/16-20 x 2.5 grade 8 Socket Head Cap screw with a Nylock nut.
Any problems getting the ball joints out of the sockets?
Bob

[Goldwing]

So far, no luck pulling the ball joints out. I tried grabbing a short piece of pipe I had with a large washer to simulate the puller, but they're too stuck and just spin. If I get impatient, I may cut a vice grip window in the pipe and just get it done. I'm replacing them, so I don't mind ruining them. But really, judging from the other stories, I'm just waiting to take them in. Another box showed up today with half of my missing parts. So, I rechecked the inventory, removed the rear axles from the hubs, and got as far as assembling one 818 axle with my time today. Question: is grease compatibity a common issue? I assume, by their condition, that I have oem subaru grease in the cv joints. I picked up some redline cv2 grease per Wayne's and others' suggestions. Should I completely clean out the old grease? Or just give a general wipeout, and repack with the new stuff? Thanks in advance.

[metalmaker12]

The redline is good, really any cv joint recommended product. So clean up and apply new greese.

[Goldwing]

We finally had a balmy heat wave in the high 30s, so I painted a bunch of the brackets. The manual mentions using a rear upright bolt on the upper front upright strut hole where the offset bolt was. I didn't like using a 14mm bolt in a 16 mm hole. I picked up a pair of class 10, 16mm flange bolts to fill out the hole. Any reason not to do this? Front LCAs are in progress, but I'll be held up with B/O'd upper ball joints and missing spring hat clips. For the aluminum LCAs, how did you guys bolt the shock mount on? Specifically, did you add washers or just use the nuts? Reason for one or the other? The contour of the arm was not flat there.

[Mechie3]

I drllled out the buttons then ground them flat. The drill doesn't completely eliminate the nub. Don't remember if I used washers. I have tons of washers, but it never says to actually use them and photos usually don't show them. I've been using them randomly as I find I have washers that match my bolt size.

[Xusia]

Like Mechie3, I ground off the remainder of the boss, and part of the side so that the bracket fit flush. You can see some of it in this video:

https://plus.google.com/u/0/b/107272488473870379365/photos/107272488473870379365/albums/5939910166797193889/5964568500267606466?pid=5964568500267606466&oid=107272488473870379365

One thing to note is that when I went to mount the shock bracket (after I made that video), I found I couldn't use the captured nut bracket supplied by FFR. My solution was to buy some good nuts and washers. This necessitated similar grinding on the bottom to achieve a nearly flush, and therefore snug, fit. Then I added loctite just because...

[Goldwing]

I did grind those nubs down as well. Agreed there. I found the captured nut bracket didn't work on the aluminum arms either. The way I read the book, it seems that plate was only for steel arms. My concern was for the aluminum moving over time allowing the nuts to loosen. The same reason for the steel bosses at the ball joint. I think I will go back and add a set of washers to distribute the stresses a bit. Thanks for the thoughts guys!

[Goldwing]

I dropped the engine in today. It just fits with the headers still on, but A/C can't be there as well as the build manual directed oil fill tube. I see the issue with the coolant bottle now, lol. It was cold working with the garage door open, glad I don't need many of those [garage open days] in this winter. Brr.

[Goldwing]

Ok, so the cockpit panels aren't as exciting as putting the engine in. That much is clear this week, lol. Perhaps it's just the drilling that gets repetitive. And a few bad bits. Had one last for a long time, then went through a bunch of apparently cheaper made bits.

Moving on to the pedal box is more like it. No way the 5/16" x 1" bolts are long enough for the brake master cylinder. I had to make a run for a couple longer ones. The pedal box didn't line up very well. For now, I added a washer underneath the top holes after persuading the mounting plates a little. I need to look around what you guys did with that issue, I remember that coming up in a few other places.

[Goldwing]

The washers sit behind the upper brake master pass-through holes. (Not the upper bracket area that received the, um, persuasion). Thought that looked unclear.

[Outwest]

I had the same problem with the master cylinder bolts, they are way to short, I got 2 1 1/2" button head bolts and had to grind down one side of the heads so they would go in straight against the steering column tube.

[Goldwing]

And THAT, will be on today's list, thanks! Problem solved, Dremel tool dug out and ready. :)

[Goldwing]

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Placed the seat in the car with all the discussion about oem seat fitment. Elani, my daughter, came out to help.

[Goldwing]

I cut the end bends off the original ABS unit bracket and decided to mount it using that bracket in the "V" of the bars leading to the battery tray. I saw a few use the firewall, but fear that may be loud when it activates. I had a Chevy in the early days of ABS that was loud when activating. I swear that thing played with my head. It didn't help that the early Chevy ABS units really sucked, practically releasing all the brakes almost causing an accident...growing pains. Anyway, short story long, didn't want the 818 to remind me of the Chevy. That thing stopped my heart a few times. Getting ready to run the lines. I'd post a pic, but it has wet paint on it just now.

[dougkirkbride]

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Placed the seat in the car with all the discussion about oem seat fitment. Elani, my daughter, came out to help.

This is the first pic of this stye of oem seat i have seen. i have the same seats in leather, i really like the looks and how comfortable these seats are, heated to boot. did they fit as expected? with the provided FFR bracket? only drawback is it is one big heavy seat. i still like the looks better than the racing ones i have seen. i hope they dont look to big and bulky for the car.
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[AZPete]

That OEM seat looks much better than my 06 OEM seat. What year?
And, she has plenty of foot room!:D

[Goldwing]

07 sedan seats. Cloth, no heat, but will be added if I have enough room to fit the seat. Like many others, this is more a teaser. It's just sitting in there, kind of high with the original brackets still in place. No FFR brackets or bolts. These are very comfortable, so I really want them to work. Just opted for the Boyd fuel tank to help that out. I'm still hoping for sliders so my wife can drive it too. She won't drive it much, but she does want the option. Fair enough.

[Goldwing]

They look fantastic in leather. Hmm. Future upgrade? :)

[Goldwing]

Without the body on, it does look massive in there, lol. Cozy, not quite cramped (6', 220). Dieting the bracket and doing all I can to lower it down and still use sliders will hopefully help. Reaching the controls on the side is a very tight reach. It may involve borrowing some space between frame members to help with access.

[dougkirkbride]

My grey leather seats are out of an 06 limited WRX wagon. I am only 5'8" 175# my wife is a little shorter......first time i can ever think of being short as maybe an advantage.:) Looking forward to your future posts on this, THXS for sharing.

[Goldwing]

No problem! My shoulders give me the most trouble in cars. I feel like an ogre, even when I'm not overweight.

While getting ready to run the brake lines, I mounted the ABS unit between the battery tray and the firewall. I trimmed and painted the oem bracket (07 wrx sedan if it matters) and bolted it up. The battery tray was in this location in early models, so I hope nothing big is blocked. Scanning pictures here and the manual seemed to support the location. If anyone knows of any issues, speak up before someone copies me, lol. I haven't picked a spot for the adjustable proportioning valves (2), one for each front wheel. (Alright pics won't upload, I'll try again in a bit.)

[Goldwing]

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The OCD in me is screaming about the odd angle. The lazy in me likes the easily used bracket that has the rubber bushings to help control noise. Lazy won out.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

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The OCD in me is screaming about the odd angle. The lazy in me likes the easily used bracket that has the rubber bushings to help control noise. Lazy won out.

Hey Goldwing
Put some tape on the holes in the ABS. You don't want any shavings or dirt getting in there.
Also, screw in the fitting with you fingers being carful not to cross thread. Ask me how I know.
Also, make sure you use M10x1.0 metric fittings in the ABS. These are the one I used.
http://store.fedhillusa.com/22nutpack.aspx
I did not us any of the PINK adaptors supplied by FFR.


Bob

[Goldwing]

I did pick up some of those fittings. My plan was to use FFR lines up front cutting one end off to length, and slipping one of those metric jobs on before flaring. Metric on the ABS, sae at the valves. Repeat to the wheels. I purchased a roll to run the rears. I'll run one down each side of the car. Being new to flaring (I like to learn), I wanted to minimize joints (I hate to fail and deal with leaks). Ok who doesn't. I think the term used elsewhere was "brake flare hell." Lol.

[Goldwing]

Tape is on. Thanks.

Finger start, got it. :)

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Don't do what I did.
Spent a day doing all the brake lines (abs included) Very neatly.
A total of about 16 fittings. About 10 leaked under pressure. I now have an eastwood flaring tool, but haven't tried it yet.
Bob

[DodgyTim]

The Eastwood will fix it, I'm a big fan
Just be careful to cut square, I dress the ends with a sanding wheel, then make sure there lube on the end

Oh, and always check to make sure that you've remembered to put the fitting on first
Ask me how I know:D

[Goldwing]

I read too many discussions here about flares leaking and grabbed the eastwood kit on sale around Christmas time. Even the pros laugh that remembering to put the fitting on the line first is the toughest part. That so very much sounds like something I would (and will very soon) do. :)

[Goldwing]

Bob, I didn't find the instructions very helpful. This video I found made a lot more sense to me:

http://youtu.be/AnQJIjM0EBo

[Greg G]

Bob, I didn't find the instructions very helpful. This video I found made a lot more sense to me:

http://youtu.be/AnQJIjM0EBo

You know your a car guy when you see a tool and simply say, "That thing is beautiful!"

[Outwest]

I have a flaring tool very similar to that, I love it, it does everything including the bubble flares.

[Goldwing]

Practiced a little today. Beautiful indeed. :)

I'll dig a little, but can anyone verify which setting to use for the 10mm brake line nuts? Perhaps pulling the instructions back out of the trash will answer that though. ;)

[Goldwing]

Ugh, either I was too tired today, or I stink at brake lines. Flares looked great, kept forgetting to put the damn fittings on before flaring. Such a fail day, lol, but progress was made. Lines from master to ABS unit done. I'm working left to right on the wheel lines. FR done. RL halfway there. I put the proportioning valves at the top of the vertical frame member next to the flexible line bracket. The knobs sit flush with the top of the frame when open all the way. Pics to come as I finish.

[dougkirkbride]

I saved all my abs items, are you (Goldwing & Bob n cincy) running abs without power brakes. i am thinking i will just get the dummied down system working first and see how that does. is a flaring tool still needed if you just do the manual brakes with no abs? i got the eastwood benders but didnt spring for the flaring tool thinking i may not need it.

[dougkirkbride]

I did pick up some of those fittings. My plan was to use FFR lines up front cutting one end off to length, and slipping one of those metric jobs on before flaring. Metric on the ABS, sae at the valves. Repeat to the wheels. I purchased a roll to run the rears. I'll run one down each side of the car. Being new to flaring (I like to learn), I wanted to minimize joints (I hate to fail and deal with leaks). Ok who doesn't. I think the term used elsewhere was "brake flare hell." Lol.

you purchased a roll to run to the rears? is this a roll of flexible brake line? is there such a thing? i often wondered why not have flex running the full distance. i have seen mixed thoughts on the flex with give in the lines and all..... with flex there would be less leak points for sure.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I saved all my abs items, are you (Goldwing & Bob n cincy) running abs without power brakes. i am thinking i will just get the dummied down system working first and see how that does. is a flaring tool still needed if you just do the manual brakes with no abs? i got the eastwood benders but didnt spring for the flaring tool thinking i may not need it.

My plan is to run the ABS with manual brakes. ( the abs unit doesn't care)
Yes a good flaring tool is required if you make your own brake lines.
The leaky fitting don't care if manual or power brakes.

If no ABS and use the supplied pre-flared lines with the metric to american threads adaptors, you don't need the flaring tool.
I didn't like this method.
Bob

[AZPete]

Like Bob, I made a nice system with my old "bar" flaring tool, but they leaked so I bought the Eastwood tool. Pricy but it makes perfect flares = no,leaks = the first time.

[tmoretta]

What is your opinion of wheel size (diameter) with ABS? Can we stagger wheel/tire size front to rear and not cause a problem with the ABS system?

[Xusia]

ABS isn't looking at the relative speed of each wheel. It looks at individual rates of deceleration. So it should work fine. I have a staggered setup and will be using ABS.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

What is your opinion of wheel size (diameter) with ABS? Can we stagger wheel/tire size front to rear and not cause a problem with the ABS system?

Below is a paragraph out of the Subaru Service manual.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=26633&d=1393728163

Is says that the ABS starts at 8%. So 24.6" fronts and 25.1" rears is a 2.0% change. So no issue.

Bob

[Goldwing]

Let's see, where to start?

Yes, I'm running ABS with the manual brakes. As the brake booster is entirely independent from ABS, it doesn't effect the operation. The booster just magnifies your foot's pressure to the master cylinder. Like Bob said, no issue.

The roll I bought to run the rears was metal hard brake line. I bought the more expensive alloy metal brake line roll that bends more easily, but to confirm it isn't "flexible" line. I feel that would introduce too much brake pedal sponginess. A foot and a half of flex line at each wheel yields about 6' of ( relatively) expandable brake line. Running this as primary brake line would multiply that number quickly to 40 feet. Likely resulting in a bad brake pedal feel. I agree, probably not a good idea.

Bob hit the staggered setup question well. A slight 2-3% difference will likely be fine. If it does act up after balancing the system, just pull the fuse. In my opinion, It won't hurt the system if deactivated.

No flaring should be required to run FFR's system. Just bending. If you run ABS, you'll need more hard brake line, 15 or so 10 mm brake line nuts, a flaring tool, and a second proportioning valve which is easy to find on amazon using the part number on the one supplied.

[Goldwing]

Since we had a rare 50 degree spell today, I POR 15'd the uprights so I can finally remount my dust shields and calipers. That is if I haven't kicked too many bolts or brake pieces around leaving me with too few pieces to figure out how to reassemble them. They've been in the way. Back to flaring tomorrow during the snow storm. Back to winter, the break in weather was nice.

[Goldwing]

Here's the brake line routing. I had to take an educated guess on where to mount the ABS unit and proportioning valve to not be in the way later. I had the valves straight up at first, but searching more pictures around the site, it appeared the windshield surround might be in the way, so I tilted them forward for better access. I only used one bolt to allow for changes. I see now the was a good move.

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[Goldwing]

I got a little further buttoning up the brake lines tonight, routing the front flex lines and ABS wires. I used the brackets on the ABS wires. The smaller bracket I bolted to the FFR upright bracket after grinding off the little wings. The larger bracket with the wire loop, I trimmed as well and mounted that on the upper sway bar mount bolt, as shown. It allows the ABS wire to reach the same area the flex brake line goes to.

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[Scargo]

Maybe it's just me, but I would be very careful about brake lines touching metal. My feeling is they're soft and they could possibly vibrate and wear through fairly easily and quickly. I would want them isolated and well supported. Beyond that, I've had metal fuel lines fatigue and crack from vibration. Perhaps I am a worry wart. It's hard to tell in some of the pictures whether lines are really touching or not.

[Goldwing]

Close, but not touching. The bend towards the mounting tab seems to be enough at this point to keep it off the upper arm, but you're right, worth paying attention to.

[Goldwing]

I took the plastic spiral hose protector off the old clutch flex line, cut it into 2 pieces, and lined the front flex brake lines where it runs close to the front upper A arm bracket as extra insurance against rubbing. I haven't determined if the 818 altered clutch line will require protection yet. I ran that line to the rear upper left corner of the engine bay for bleed free engine pulls.

I tested the motul power bleeder through Michael Everson's remote brake/clutch reservoir kit tonight. I don't have the reservoir permanently mounted yet and won't until the windshield surround is in and wipers are installed. I was able to successfully bleed everything using the recommended (for wrx, not the supplied reservoir, specifically) ford 3 prong adapter. It was too tight to fit as supplied. I swapped in a thinner O-ring on the adapter and got it to fit leak free. Still very snug. The remote kit connection seeped just a tiny bit (at the master connectors) under the power bleed pressure of 10 psi, but not enough to drip during the entire process. Very clearly will not be an issue under normal gravity conditions. Other than the zip-tied-for-now reservoir, it's a clean look. It minimizes the look of the tilted brake master as well in my opinion.

Further, thanks for the recommendations in the forum for the eastwood brake flare kit. I had only 2 leaks, and as it turned out, I hadn't tightened those down all the way, lol. That's the trouble with multiple days working on one system I guess. That made it leak free on the first try. No brake flare leak he11! This forum is an awesome place!

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[Scargo]

And you have contributed an idea I like: wrapping lines in critical spots. I found this black polyethylene wrap (http://www.amazon.com/Vaisis-Spiral-Harness-Outside-Diameter/dp/B003PPK6R4/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1394532121&sr=8-12&keywords=spiral+wrap+black) that looks as if it will fit around metal brake line pretty well. 33 feet for $8.78 with Amazon Prime.
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[Goldwing]

If anyone copies my work with the remote brake reservoir, do not do exactly as I did. Use the tee to split between the clutch and a brake master input, not split so that the same reservoir line goes to both brake master inputs. This sacrifices the redundancy in the brake system. You want one reservoir tube going to separate brake inputs. Send a split to the clutch master. Thanks Bob! More reasons to like this forum! I'll post a pic when I get to swap the lines.

[AZPete]

Rich, you referred to the zip-tied-for-now reservoir. I also did not like the zip-tied fittings to the master for mike's remote reservoir kit. I bent a steel piece to fit over the pin in the master that held the OE plastic reservoir and then tapped a hole for a set screw to hold the adapter down onto the master cylinder.

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb180/AZPeteCobra/DSCN2913.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/AZPeteCobra/media/DSCN2913.jpg.html)

[Goldwing]

I like that a lot better Pete! I was actually referring to the remote reservoir bottle itself, which I sloppily zip tied to the frame by the left front wheel until the actual mounting spot can be determined, but I'm glad you misunderstood, lol. I like your mod to Mike's mod. It's clean looking and more secure.

[Goldwing]

Ok, question: I worked on the 2wd conversion today and found the book missed a few washers that I'm pretty sure come out. When I removed exactly as listed in the manual, the locking collar didn't fit flush with the rearmost shaft, and didn't have the splined surfaces fully engaged. I removed an additional washer (shown slid back in the first pic below) which had everything lining up much more nicely, with the locking collar sitting flush with the rearmost splined shaft (see lower pic). So finally the question: I was correct to do this, right? I feel pretty certain, but transmissions are expensive...

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[AZPete]

Rich, oops, wrong zip-ties. Maybe this photo will help. For the reservoir, I was not thinking so much of appearance but for a way to remove & reinstall the windshield without draining & bleeding the brake system each time. (Can't help you with the tranny question.)

http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb180/AZPeteCobra/Remotereservoir.jpg (http://s210.photobucket.com/user/AZPeteCobra/media/Remotereservoir.jpg.html)

[Goldwing]

Thanks. I will keep that mount in mind. I remember seeing that in your build thread, I think. My hesitation is not knowing where the wipers will end up. I just want to move/reroute the lines once, without having it interfere with the wiper mount. Kind of a know what I don't know scenario.

[AZPete]

I'm also waiting for FFR to release their wiper kit and I hope my reservoir is not in the way.

[Goldwing]

Ok, so I spent some time thinking about the shift linkage today and how to gain a little extra rear space and possibly protect the linkage in the event of a mild fender bender and came up with something. I'm using the K-tuned shifter from very cool parts, but I don't think it matters, what I came up with should be doable with either the FFR shifter plan or Very Cool Parts K-Tuned setup, with another mod, and it is cheap. I'll try to verify that as I have time. The idea was to flip the FFR shift bracket so the bolt-on part prongs face towards the transmission. It quickly became clear the oem attachment wasn't going to work, so I looked around the garage for ideas. I had a 1-1/4" draw bar for a trailer hitch I no longer had. Measured it. It was just a shave thicker than the space inside the shifter bracket. Aha moment. I sawed off a cube from the end of the draw bar, drilled a 5/8" hole offset from center, then drilled the hole for the lock pin with a size "O" drill bit (slightly larger than 5/16"). The offset allows for drilling and tapping for the ball joint shift connector, and to move its attachment point over to where it would have been if using the oem piece. That ball joint that taps into the block is moved closer to the cable mount, so my plan is to move that bracket one bolt spacing forward. For The K-tuned setup, that's pretty much the end of it. The FFR setup will require some modding to the cable mount bracket as the lever end of the shifter bracket doesn't move forward much. I'll play with that after I finish fabbing it up, I have limited tooling, not quite metalmaker's array, lol. I JB welded the block into the shift bracket tonight, so I guess I'm committing. I'll drill and tap the ball joint connector and another spot just for security. Finally, my thought for the fender bender was to bolt a bar across the transmission plate between the modded shifter bracket and the end plate. Space it such that it sits just beyond the free play in the shift selector. The idea is that a light rear end collision would push the shift selector in to the bar which would transfer the forces to the transmission case offering some internal protection. Here's a pic of the progress so far. It gains an inch and a half of extra rear room as shown in the pic.

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[wallace18]

Great Idea.

[Xusia]

I don't understand completely. I look forward to pictures of the completed setup. :)

[tmoretta]

I re-drilled the shaft itself with a titanium carbide 5/16" bit. The U shaped fitting now sits right up against the shoulder on the shaft. Gained about 3/4 inch.

[nkw8181]

What is this about a wiper kit??I am ordering the race windscreen as well as the windshield and want to be able to easily swap :D will the wipers be an issue?

[Scargo]

I re-drilled the shaft itself with a titanium carbide 5/16" bit. The U shaped fitting now sits right up against the shoulder on the shaft. Gained about 3/4 inch.
Can't trump Ti carbide drill bit. Awesome!
nkw8181 (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/member.php?11703-nkw8181) They're talking about the other end of the car.:rolleyes:

[Goldwing]

As far as the wipers go, just heard they are in development. Eric fabbed up his own using the oem unit with one wiper arm. I'm not sure about how it mounts. It might be as simple as removing the arm when using the race windscreen. I'm committed to getting them work with or without FFR's help. Just hope they figure out a plan before I need it!

[Goldwing]

26898

Here's a pic of my mod to the shifter arm from a few angles. It's a block of steel from a solid 1-1/4" hitch drawbar, filling the gap between the prongs that would mount inside the oem shift bracket and turned around. I drilled the shift rod hole with a 5/8" drill bit, then carefully aligned and drilled the spring lock pin hole with a size "O" drill bit. I drilled the hole for the FFR ball mount using a size "3" drill bit, then tapped it with a 1/4"-28 thread. I used another bolt on the other side for insurance. Just picked out something from the bucket and tapped threads for it too. It was a 6mm-1 bolt thread if anyone cares. The JB weld holding the block in place should be all that's needed to hold it in there. This setup is for the K-tuned shifter. My best guess to use this idea for the FFR shifter setup would be to drill the shifter rod hole all the way through and mount it with the FFR shift bracket (red) facing the transmission and pointed down. Then determine where the spring retaining clip hole should be. It will need to be further from the red area. More explanation on why it would be flipped in a bit. My little girl wants to play. :)

[Goldwing]

26899

In place.

[Goldwing]

26900

The top frames shows the mod I had to do to the cable mount bracket. The K-tuned bracket flips the lever upwards to work and provides a new cable mount for the new position. As such, you cut off the corresponding cable mount. Because this mod moves the other cable mount forward on the car, the cable mount bracket needs to move too. I just bolted the rear bracket hole into the forward transmission hole and drilled a new hole for rear transmission bolt location. These holes are 40mm apart. I placed the oem bracket next to my new bracket and drilled the hole for the ball mount 40 mm forward. Just line up the spring pin holes for reference. I also tilted the bracket before drilling as shown. This lines up the push pull of the cable with the shift selector rod better. Just eyeballed the angle.

[Goldwing]

Because the shift bracket is essentially just flipped around, the k tuned bracket lines up nicely. No additional mod required, I hope, lol. As shown in the lower frame above.

[Goldwing]

Anyone who tries this with the FFR setup, these are my thoughts in getting that to work. Like above, drill the large shift rod hole all the way through the whole setup then mount it with the red FFR bracket facing the transmission pointed downward. By keeping the same orientation, both ball mounts will move forward the same amount. Then move the cable mount bracket forward a corresponding amount. I think tilting the bracket as I did for the push/pull cable might mess up the angles for the rotation cable, so leave it level or at least consider how that would affect the other cable before drilling away. Skipping holes and moving the 40mm ought to work for simplicity, it definitely works for the push/pull cable. Since the rotational cable mounts to the bendable end of the bracket, there should be some adjustment range there. Bottom line, this should work for either setup.

The offset for the shift rod hole was as far over as I could do while maintaining a similar wall thickness to the oem bracket sleeve. The purpose again was to push the cable end ball mount (towards the driver's side) to the original position. The FFR setup should allow for the greatest increase in space as for the k-tuned setup I didn't want the spring pin to be too close to the union if my block and the FFR bracket. The FFR setup won't have that issue, you could slide it all the way onto the rod, just use a thick enough block to reach the original hole. Or, get more space by drilling a new hole further in.

I hope that explains it well enough. If not, just ask. I might look into bob's transmission case mod next winter. A lot of space gained there. Enough for a concealed bumper bar I believe.

[Goldwing]

I've been sidelined the last two weeks with a bad ankle sprain. I hobbled out today to start tying up a few things before installing the Boyd gas tank. (I felt I had to mention "Boyd" lest I get a few excited about the backordered tanks, lol). I painted the coolant line for the oil cooler and installed a new O-ring on the oil cooler. I had the common oil and dirt-caked oil cooler indicative of the $3 O-ring failure. I wish I hadn't followed the manual's recommended rear brake line routing of tucking it inside the rear corner of the cockpit. This tank looks to be a bit tight against those lines. I don't want to have to redo the line routing.

27359

[AZPete]

Rich, my Boyd tank is also close to the brake lines but there's still enough room inside the rear corners. I protected the lines with rubber tubing so they won't rub the tank or the frame.

[Goldwing]

Good to hear there is some room. I didn't get to try the fit, just some eyeballing. The hose idea sounds like a good one.

[Goldwing]

Well, I'm starting to regain my mobility as my ankle heals. I used the 06 wiring guide thread to ID most of the connectors over the weekend and finished my modification to the rear firewall the last few days as well. Another local builder helped with the bending needs. (Thanks Chris!). I cut the upper firewall piece along the shelf, making it an inch shallower. I overlapped the pieces and installed rivnuts to make the now center panel removeable for easy engine and fuse access. The middle panel got about a 12-15 degree steeper bend where the shelf is as well as a slight bend near the bottom to match the lower panel's angle better. I had to install a little brace in the lower panel after tightening the floor bolts. There was so much heat warping on the steel tray from the frame welding, the lower panel really wanted to lean forward.

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28012

EDIT: This firewall mod was in conjunction with the Boyd tank to move the wall back about 3". Trying to fit my semi-wookie frame into the 818! Rather than just bending the upper firewall piece a bit extra, I made the cut because it was interfering with my seat at the shelf corner. This gave me just a little extra room.

[Goldwing]

Ok, I've been MIA for a while. I've still been at it, but working on the wire harness doesn't lend itself to play-by-play updates. " ...and today a rerouted the GreenBlack wire that goes to who knows what, from .." Well, there just didn't seem to be much to report. I didn't diet all that much, just moved, lengthened, or cut out stuff so the connectors I did identify should reach their destination. I moved the harness to the car from my back room a few days ago. I reused the firewall pass through plug on the ABS run and ran most stuff through that going to the front except power and headlights which got their own pass through. I mounted the ECU in the original bracket above the Boyd fuel tank in the passenger side with some water-proofing efforts on that side, leaving all fuel lines on the driver's side to limit electronics mixing with fuel fumes in the event of a leak. I still haven't nailed down where to mount the fuse panel. The relay box sits between the ECU and the fuel level sender.

[Goldwing]

The last 2 days I've worked on the cooling system and found a few things worth noting. One, a Gates 22158 hose fits very nicely on the lower rad port and wraps nicely above the battery to point down below the steering joints. It clears the bellows, but could use a bit of extra space via the common rad lifting spacer mods.

30152

I used 2 45 degree angles to address the self-burping issue a few have raised. Since my engine was installed before hearing about Wayne's recommendation of tapping a port on the engine water outlet, and I didn't want to pull the engine just for that, I found these:

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30151

They're from a VW VR6 cooling system. I routed the engine water outlet uphill and the little tap should grab any air pockets and send them to the coolant reservoir. I ran the stock burp line (previously from the rad) to the little port. My plan is to tie the one from the radiator and a second of these 45's sitting on top of the radiator (highest point in front) to the coolant reservoir as well. Any thoughts on this routing? (Upper radiator burp port, radiator inlet mod port, engine outlet mod port all to coolant reservoir bottle on top of the engine?) The idea is self burping and trouble free operation. I had some doubts about the run from the front to the rear, wondering if it would do any good.

[GUNS]

Looks great. Why can't you tap the water outlet with the engine in the car? I did it and all I had to do was remove the intake.

[Goldwing]

Tight fit with the "extra" firewall. I don't have room with the tools I have on hand. Sure, that's a good reason to go out and buy another tool, lol, but I have purchased a few tools lately. Have to draw a line somewhere. ;)

[GUNS]

I hear ya. I have an "extra" firewall as well so it forced me to tap the pipe at an 11 o'clock position vs the 2 o'clock that Wayne mentioned.

http://i579.photobucket.com/albums/ss233/RCGsupra/818%20Build/20140522_103113_zpsvys2fiiz.jpg (http://s579.photobucket.com/user/RCGsupra/media/818%20Build/20140522_103113_zpsvys2fiiz.jpg.html)

[Goldwing]

That'll take care of it. I was feeling a bit lazy, lol. The pieces were cheap.

[Goldwing]

I considered Rori's spacers, a very elegant solution for raising the radiator for steering bellows clearance, but decided to just use a few spacers. Combined with the Gates 22158 hose (Ford F350 I think) I didn't need a lot of extra clearance. I have 3/8" in the steering position when the bellows sit the proudest. Should be good enough. Buttoned up the main cooling lines and burp lines tying the front burp lines to the burp line coming from the engine coolant outlet. Just tee'd it off. Just have the coolant expansion tank to install and that system is done.

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If anyone likes the Mishimoto radiator, look for the newer one with plug and play wiring. This one has only 2 wires for each fan, meaning I'll have one fan speed only (no low).

[Goldwing]

So, I found these to wrap up a few sections of wire harness I may not be done with yet. Zipper close, absorb vibrations, reasonable price (I'm not wrapping the whole harness) I just don't see a down side.

http://www.lakeside.com/Home-Improvement/Household-Helpers/Set-of-4-Neoprene-Zip-Up-Cable-Sleeves//prod900212.jmp?fm=search&categoryId=

Otherwise, I'm still working the harness into the frame, and finally after a 4 month backorder wait, received my rear wheel spacers (10mm) and longer stud kit. The rear studs are a bit of a pain to change compared to the front, but happily, everything fits! I put 17x8 wheels in front, and 17x9 in the rears with low 50s offset, and 10mm spacers. Always nice to find that advice obtained here was indeed good advice. Thanks again Factory Five forum community!

[Goldwing]

I hit a milestone today with the first start! I may have a dead alternator and a small coolant leak, but the engine fired right up! It's nice to know I didn't mess up the wiring. The coolant burp lines from the radiator and the engine coolant outlet pipe worked flawlessly. Thank you Wayne for the tips in setting up the system for easy coolant system burping.
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[Goldwing]

You can see from the gauge cluster pic in the previous post where I put my fuse panel. When I moved the wire harness to the car from where I did the work, the pocket above the pedal box was the path of least resistance. Hopefully the dash will lay nicely over it. I'll have to fashion an access door panel.

[Goldwing]

I worked on sorting the center console today with the VCP K-tuned shifter. Since I'm planning to eventually run AC, running the shift cables under the intake manifold was not going to work. As such, I ran them over the left heads past the oil dipstick and fill tubes. This moves the shifter itself rearward a little, cramping things at the rear of the console when using the K-tuned shifter, unmodified. Since I'm also using the Boyd tank, I had extra rearward room for the parking brake. I modified the parking brake bracket in 3 spots.
1-squared the passenger side foot parallel to the ground.
2-trimmed and eased (beveled via file) the rear edge to prevent damaging the shift cables over time
3-cut the front to move the foot to the center so as not to interfere with the bolt pattern of the k-tuned shifter plate and so that it will mount underneath said plate. I tapped a third hole in the rear mount plate for the shifter to bolt the parking brake front foot down.
Finally, this put the rearmost mount hole (ebrake) past the end of the center console frame, so I bridged the hole with a short piece of steel. Feels solid.

This made room up front for one cup holder if I use FFR's dash transition. If I trim that transition piece or make a new one, I may still try to squeeze a 2nd cup holder up there.

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31759

[Goldwing]

My cup holder has a light ring below the outer bezel, which got me thinking...

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I took a piece of lexan or polycarbonate that I had laying around and cut it just oversized on the table saw with a fine carbide tipped blade set prouder than usual. Then sanded the edges with sandpaper glued to my table saw surface using the rip fence as a guide to keep the edges square. 120-220-600-1500-2000 grits. Then cutout areas needed for the shifter mounting holes, moving parts, etc. with a dremel using a router attachment and drill bit, rotozip style. Areas adjacent cutouts have bright spots, I wonder if anyone else applies the idea, if a simple rectangle along the perimeter sans cutouts would turn out a bit nicer. I started making two, only one made it.

[Frank818]

Now that's an off the chart thinking, I like that! Could be even more kick a** with a colored LED. :)

[AZPete]

You're seriously sick, Rich.

[Goldwing]

Now that's an off the chart thinking, I like that! Could be even more kick a** with a colored LED. :)

I may go that route, just haven't decided on overall color scheme yet. In the pic, I just have a flashlight aimed at it from underneath for the effect.

AZPete, thanks, I think. ;)
If you're referring to the sanding, it's just the edges needing sanding only requiring a few swipes on each side. Most of my projects involve wood, making this more comfortable than most of this build, lol. From concept to flashlight-lit pic all fit in one naptime for my little girl.

[xatudor]

Another way of finishing the edge is to drag the top edge of a hacksaw blade (or the shape edge of a stanley knife blade) along the perspex edge and it should turn out clear. The blade edge on the perspex should be angled away from you as you draw the blade towards yourself using two hands. It takes practise and a steady hand(s) to maintain the straightness of the edge. You could try it on the piece that didn't make it.
As for the lights you could always wire it to the door switches and have a couple of lights in the foot wells that match the light under the shifter, seeing as there is no roof mounted interior light.

[Goldwing]

Footwell lights are really convenient. I added them to my outback years ago when I was doing a lot of road trips. They really helped find things you dropped or to put shoes back on when getting close to home. That car was so badly lit inside, it needed help. Footwell lights are now on the list. I'm torn between wiring the shifter bezel light to the dimming dash circuit (via the CD player illumination wire that conveniently reaches, or the doors. I guess it could be both, dimmed for driving/glare, but via diodes or separate lights, full bright with the doors.

Thanks for adding alternate polishing advice xatudor. It may come in handy.

[AZPete]

AZPete, thanks, I think.
I should have added this :D so you'd know that I'm amazed at your innovation.

[Goldwing]

Thanks for that, Pete! :)

Today I spent working on the front alignment. Honestly, with limited tooling, I felt like a clown trying to pick up one too many items. Fix toe in, screw up steering center, fix that, caster and camber goes off, fix that steer center is off again. But like a dog, I just went round and round until I finally caught my own tail. Am I alone in this?!?

I never got to touch the rear. I'll still take it in when I'm roadworthy, just want to get everything as close as I can before any go karting. No surprises!

Oh I did finally have to switch the front LCA rear mounts to put the hump wing back on bottom as was pointed out previously in this thread to get caster in to spec. I could only push 2* without it, quite shy of the 3-4* recommended by FFR. Once flipped it was in high 3's.

[Goldwing]

Rear pre-alignment is done. May I suggest to everyone in the manual to scratch off the rear caster box that says "N/A" and put something in there like "parallel" to remind you to set the lateral links parallel wrt level, as it involves similar adjustments (to caster). It is also a place you are likely to notice it and not forget. I guess a few guys have had handling surprises at highway speed and those who seem to know suspension (Wayne of VCP among them) suggested this adjustment which solved their issue. I don't fully understand the dynamics of this, just passing along what I've read here in the forums.

[dougkirkbride]

[QUOTE=Goldwing;162381]I hit a milestone today with the first start! I may have a dead alternator and a small coolant leak, but the engine fired right up! It's nice to know I didn't mess up the wiring. The coolant burp lines from the radiator and the engine coolant outlet pipe worked flawlessly. Thank you Wayne for the tips in setting up the system for easy coolant system burping.
/QUOTE]


congrats on the first start rich! had to be nice to hear that motor run again.

[Frank818]

Rich, about your k-tuned shifter, I see you installed it with the k-tuned plate over the alu console. What do you have inside the console under the shifter's plate? Did you put the black box with k-tuned writings on it in there or you just kept the cable parts and trashed away the k-tuned box?

[Goldwing]

Thanks Doug! Absolutely!

Frank, I kept it as it came underneath the console, just installed what is essentially a large lexan washer with the shift cable mount collars and shift levers untouched. There is a black box that the shift knob attaches to. Is that what you're referring to? If so, it's there. It angles forward on mine while I've seen others angled towards the back. Since mine is mounted a bit more rearward due to my shift cable having to go around the left side of the engine (not over it), it felt better mounted forward. You can see just part of of the block in the backlit pic, but the previous post shows it better.

[Frank818]

Rich I am talking about this box, just to make sure we talk about the same thing.

31882

[Goldwing]

Oh, we are talking about different things. I have never seen that lower box. Didn't come with my VCP kit from Wayne.

[Frank818]

Seriously? Very interesting... I'll PM Wayne to make sure I am not missing anything, just in case.

[wleehendrick]

My shifter didn't come with the lower box either, just the top plate. I don't think the box would fit between the 818 console rails.

[Frank818]

My shifter didn't come with the lower box either, just the top plate. I don't think the box would fit between the 818 console rails.

It actually does. But not if you insert it from the top. It's 2-3mm too wide. That reminds me, I don't even know if from the side it can slide in either, have to check.
Maybe cuz I was an early adopter and got it drop shipped from k-tuned it has that lower box. Eager to see what Wayne says about that but hey I just need to leave it aside. :)

[Goldwing]

I guess I don't have any use for the box, so no worries in my case. It'll be covered by the center tunnel aluminum. Might be neat to use it elsewhere if the opportunity arose, but no worries.

With AZPete dealing with front tire clearance issues, and having chosen the same size tires as was previously the FFR recommended size of 215/45-17, I dug one of my tires out of the shed to check. Uh-oh. Me too. I'm considering the options.

1) Bob is considering the wagon mount holes with the sedan arms but leaves a few potential issues of shock length, steering rack length, fender clearance? Since I'm already running a 10mm spacer, I could drop the spacer if fender clearance became an issue.

2) slotting the rear mount to move it outward a little more since the clearance problem is the tire hitting the outside firewall corner aluminum and the lower frame behind the tire. This preloads the front mount, but leaves other issues mostly alone. This changes the pivot geometry just a little. I don't know what effect that might have on the road.

3) inserting a spacer between the steel pivot arm and the rear of the control arm (pic below). This maintains the pivot geometry mimicking the STI arms, but still stressing the front mount a bit. I pulled the bolts and turned the wheel to the stop and a 5/16" gap was created. So a 5/16" to 3/8" spacer would be needed if the front mount can handle it. Longer bolts would also be needed due to the spacer. I'm guessing the spacer could work at 5/16" since the upper arm would be adjusted forward as much as it allows anyway to control caster from getting too high, also helping clearance. I'm leaning towards this approach at the moment.

4) buying STI arms. I need to check again what the differences are. How much caster does it add?

5) putting a spacer on each end of the steering rack to limit travel. I need to look into that to understand the complexity of it. While I don't like the idea of limiting steering range, it seems the simplest fix.

6) buying new tires and still possibly need a smaller adjustment.

I may try a smaller 1/4" spacer and combine that with aluminum modification as was done by others. The lower frame is only an issue with the suspension fully uncompressed. Since I don't plan on jumping the 818 especially at full steering lock, perhaps this won't be that big a deal?

[Boog]

You could also try offset bushing in the control arm.
Whiteline KCA375 (http://www.whiteline.com.au/product_detail4.php?part_number=KCA375)
http://www.whiteline.com.au/images/products/KCA375.jpg

[Frank818]

Rich, and for those reading through this thread, the K-tuned box I got and you didn't, we don't care about it. The U brackets yes we do but the under box is not used. I think the K-Tuned thread gives that info as well. And I guess now those buying the kit from VCP just don't get that piece which is unused.

[Goldwing]

Boog, yep, might need those.

Frank, thanks for reporting back. Ignorance was bliss I guess. ;)

[Goldwing]

I played around with a spacer today. Ideally, I would need to make it wedge shaped, so as not to distort the rear bushing as well. A 3/8" spacer in this spot:
31914
moved the caster up to 5* with -.5* camber with the upper arm running out of forward adjustment. I didn't get to check toe, but I went from tire interference to tire rub status. The firewall spot could be modified to clear as it stands. If I could modify the upper arm to gain more adjustment I may just get there. I need a thinner left hand thread backing nut in the forward upper arm or thin the one I have. I'll see where I'm at when I get caster back into spec (bringing the upper ball joint forward improving tire clearance.)

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I played around with a spacer today. Ideally, I would need to make it wedge shaped, so as not to distort the rear bushing as well. A 3/8" spacer in this spot:
31914
moved the caster up to 5* with -.5* camber with the upper arm running out of forward adjustment. I didn't get to check toe, but I went from tire interference to tire rub status. The firewall spot could be modified to clear as it stands. If I could modify the upper arm to gain more adjustment I may just get there. I need a thinner left hand thread backing nut in the forward upper arm or thin the one I have. I'll see where I'm at when I get caster back into spec (bringing the upper ball joint forward improving tire clearance.)

Rich
to get the shortest, it is important the top arms adjusting couplers start on each bolt at the same time. Each thread (Lh & RH) goes half way through the coupler.
Bob

[Goldwing]

Thanks, I did notice that. Before disassembling them earlier, I had hoped to trim a bunch off the longer outer screw, but instead trimmed 2 threads off of each side when I figured that out. If I trim the backing nut a bit, I could bottom out the screws inside the adjuster. I'm trying to be conservative on trimming in case I go another route. I'd hate to burn any bridges forcing more replacement parts.

I'll play with the upper arm a bit more tomorrow and set toe again. If I then clear the firewall corner or can modify it to clear I'll call it good. If I still hit the lower frame , I'll add more wheel spacer (concerned about fender clearance) or measure the distance of steering rack travel to make it clear, then find a split collar with a width matching that measurement and throw it inside the rack stops. I don't like limiting steering travel, but if it gets me the rest of the way there, it's a solution.

[Goldwing]

With the 3/8" spacer installed at the rear of the control arm, and some "persuading" to the forward upper A arm, I was able to pull the caster back in to 3.6, roughly check toe in, and get camber to -.5. Threw the tire back on and wound up still rubbing.

To review, 17x8 40-42 offset equivalent (including 10mm spacer in offset). Goodyear Eagle 1 Assymetric 2 215/45-17

With weight on the wheels, the lower frame will not rub. With aluminum mods at the outside firewall corner, I could fix the rubbing. Before adding the spacer, the corner was deep into the tread. As it stands, turning the wheel back to straight, both areas hit at the same time. I'm considering looking for a split locking collar to limit steering travel. 3/16" or 5mm steering rack stops would provide 1/8" clearance with full tread, zero weight on wheels and with an unmodified firewall. I'm less concerned about the frame area because weight on wheels increases clearance and and I would not be turning that hard at speeds that would create tire deflection. The aluminum deserves more clearance, but a little bending can easily increase that amount by a lot.

[Goldwing]

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[AZPete]

Rich, thanks for trying all those fixes before I had time to try them. My plan is to drive a few more miles as a go-kart but without turning too sharp, and then mount the body, get plates, and get a pro alignment. Then, I'll see how the tires look under the fenders (need spacers?)and decide if I need new tires (215/35/17?). I'm afraid that if I jump through hoops to find a fix now everything might change with the body on.

[Goldwing]

For the steering rack limiters, a call to the dealer didn't quite know what I was asking for. Perhaps not much call for such things in Subarus, but I've seen them before in a Ford. Maybe truck modifiers deal with these more? Or just bad communication on my part. From another hobby, biking, I thought of headset spacers. They come in precise widths. A standard size is 1" and measure 1.01" inside. The rack shaft on my '07 is 1.02" (26mm). Oh, and unlike most things at the bike store, they're cheap at $1-2 each. I'm going to try cutting them into a C and see if the .01" or .4mm difference in size will act like a nice spring clip to keep it in place and from rattling. 4mm was the measurement I made, 5mm is available at my bike shop, so I'll try that. If I feel it is too much limit, I'll find 4mm or even 3mm spacers. They'll come in Friday, they were out of 5mm pieces only having 10mm or larger.

An example of what I'm talking about:
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http://www.cambriabike.com/Wheels-of-Boulder-Headset-Spacer-Black-1in-5mm.asp

[Goldwing]

Rich, thanks for trying all those fixes before I had time to try them. My plan is to drive a few more miles as a go-kart but without turning too sharp, and then mount the body, get plates, and get a pro alignment. Then, I'll see how the tires look under the fenders (need spacers?)and decide if I need new tires (215/35/17?). I'm afraid that if I jump through hoops to find a fix now everything might change with the body on.

No problem, I will say you kind of drug me into this, lol. Where I'm at, a wheel spacer will help the lower frame issue, but not likely solve it. At the full turn angle, the spacer won't do much at the rear firewall corner, just move what part of the tire hits. So I guess I'm thinking the wheel spacer will be for looks more so than interference problems. Narrower tire would help at the lower frame. A thinner profile tire (smaller diameter) would help in both areas.

[Goldwing]

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Here's pics of the steering rack under the boot. Steering limiting spacers just get clipped around the shaft and limit steering travel by fitting between the body of the steering rack and the base of the steering arm. They get placed next to the base of the arm by the bend in place lock washer. If you don't put them at the end, they'll get pushed in place the first time you turn the wheel to the stop. For those who have to figure all this out anyway like I did.

[Frank818]

Rich, those spacers you put them inside the rack tube?

[Goldwing]

Rich, those spacers you put them inside the rack tube?

Yes. My fat finger drawing showing where it would go:
31970
I did see thicker clamps on a "super steering" kit by Perrin which quicken the rack on our cars by moving the steering connection closer to the hub. It had nice, secure-looking split collar locking clamps. C clips or round bushings are commonly used on the Ford truck steering racks I came across in my search earlier. If anyone can think of a reason to find something more secure than what I proposed speak up please. :)

[Frank818]

Actually that's inside the plastic boots, not directly inside the steel tube, I understand your "body of steering rack and base of steering arm". So you don't need to remove the end cap (the one you twist, for 02-03).
And how are you securing the C clip stoppers in place? They clip but how are they prevented from slipping away?

[Goldwing]

In truth, I don't know yet, but friction mostly. If it's snug, it won't move. If it was loose I suppose it could slide inward, but would just get pushed back against the tie rod base the next time you turned the wheel all the way. If you wanted something more secure (I had trouble finding a small enough locking collar), I suppose heating the ring while icing the rack end just might produce enough clearance to tap it in place. It only needs .4mm. I'll check the options once they come in. If as a snap ring it is resistant to move, I have trouble seeing any problems with movement. It's a pretty narrow ring to tap a set screw. I had thought of using a c clip cut from 1" PVC, but it could see temps warm enough to make a mess. Especially if I ever decide to throw power steering on it. I doubt I would, but I'm trying to think through all the possibilities having never driven the car before.

[Goldwing]

As another thought. The clip, as I envisioned it, would be an almost complete circle. Necessitating removal of the tie rod to install. There really wouldn't be anywhere it could go unless it broke.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hey Rich
Take a look ath this thread
Bob

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/206391-steering-rack-limiter-installation.html

[Goldwing]

Hey Rich
Take a look ath this thread
Bob

http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/206391-steering-rack-limiter-installation.html

There ya go! Thanks! I see I wasn't the only one to think of PVC as a material source. And also not the only one to be concerned it may not be the best in the long run. But those are simple C clips in the product being sold, nothing fancy. I found something very similar in my search but wasn't able to verify measurements.

[07FIREBLADE]

I will be trying to use these c clips,

http://www.breezeautomotive.com/details.php?prod_id=811&cat_id=&added=1

I'll report back if they are a go or no go, depending on results. Thanks for bring this topic back up. Was just what I needed to look at this weekend.

[Goldwing]

I will be trying to use these c clips,

http://www.breezeautomotive.com/details.php?prod_id=811&cat_id=&added=1

I'll report back if they are a go or no go, depending on results. Thanks for bring this topic back up. Was just what I needed to look at this weekend.

Since it was business hours, I gave them a quick call. He measured them at .8" inside diameter. That might be a tight fit on the 1+" (26mm) bar in my steering rack. Then again , that may be just right to provide a snug fit. I'll be curious to hear how they work. I'll report my mountain bike headset spacer results as well. The important thing I guess is to use a material that won't be affected by a little grease or heat over time. Nylon, steel, or aluminum stand out to me as good materials. PVC I'll worry over time.

[Goldwing]

To review my adjustments to the front to create tire clearance for the previously recommended 215/45-17's on 17x8 rims with low 40's offset, here's what I did:

First I added a 3/8" aluminum spacer where the steel rod bolts onto the rear mount of the front LCA. This adds caster mimicking the STI version if the aluminum arms. Do your research, but if you plan on buying aluminum arms, strongly consider the STI version of these arms that have added caster. I believe the 06-07 years had that change, earlier version may have had a different body mount. I'm not saying I know that either way, just pointing out something I ran across and haven't nailed down yet. The STI version that has extra caster has a bend along the forward edge of the arms, the Subaru performance tuning (SPT) version is straight along the forward edge. Anyway, I needed longer bolts due to the spacer, so I picked 4 50mm class 10.9 bolts (12mmx1.25 like the wheel studs) to keep a similar thread bite into the arm.
31986

Then, I had to modify the forward upper A arm to allow for a shorter adjustment. Note, by threading the longer side on first, say 4 threads, gives you the shortest overall adjustment. (It seems counter intuitive, but I figured that out through trial and error). The reason is you run out of threads on the shorter side before the threads bottom out inside the turnbuckle. The shorter adjustment allows to reach FFR recommended caster/camber adjustments. I'll leave it to you to figure out how you want to accomplish that in modifying.

Then to realign center, I had to lengthen the tie rod by half a turn to a turn or so.

Finally, I popped a 5mm wide c clip just inside the the rod base under the steering boot. For now, I just cut a 1" PVC pipe piece. I'm planning to use a 5mm aluminum headset spacer for a mountain bike. Regardless what is used, 5mm solved the remaining clearance issues.

This created clearance at the lower frame behind the wheel and at the aluminum outside corner of the firewall. I'll modify the firewall for additional clearance to be sure. With weight on wheels, the frame won't be an issue in my opinion.
31987
31988

The bushings are compressed a bit, I'm thinking if adding the offset bushings recommended in a recent previous post to relieve the stress on those bushings.

[Frank818]

I'll be very closely watching your C clip solution.

[metalmaker12]

Like the spacer idea

[Goldwing]

31990
To help ID the 2 types of arms available as mentioned in my previous post: In the pic here, an STI arm with added caster is on the left. Note the bend in the leading edge of the arm. Then note that the SPT arm on the right has a straight leading edge. I hope that helps everyone.

[Boog]

Another look at the difference in ball joint placement between the WRX and STI (extra castor) arms. The picture shows steel arms, but from what I have read the dimensions are the same between the steel and aluminum WRX arms.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7259/7046564185_70c7ba7811_z.jpg

[Goldwing]

Another look at the difference in ball joint placement between the WRX and STI (extra castor) arms. The picture shows steel arms, but from what I have read the dimensions are the same between the steel and aluminum WRX arms.
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7259/7046564185_70c7ba7811_z.jpg

Good info. Thanks. To do it again, I'd use STI aluminum arms. 20/20 hindsight.

[Goldwing]

Well, the headset spacers looked too thin. I had some previously that were thicker. Oh well. Time to look to another source. I have an old poly cutting board hanging around... Less brittle than PVC. Similar melting point. I bet nylon would be better.

[Goldwing]

I still haven't nailed down exactly what I'll keep in the evaporative emissions department. If the shop I use gets an 06-07 STI carcass in the near future to give me the parts to pull it off, I'll try. If not, it'll get a diet, but I wanted the charcoal canister regardless to control smells in the garage. I think I found a "corner" to hide the oem canister.
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Attached the feet to the frame with spacers and used a strip of aluminum I trimmed off the firewall to fashion a bracket to support it from the other end. A triangular support. Once I figure out a trunk, it may get a better support on the outside end. I find myself very hesitant to install pieces like this, afraid of just having to move it further down the build.

[dougkirkbride]

looks like you found a good spot for it. i am keeping my eye out for one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/94-95-96-97-MAZDA-MIATA-GAS-FUEL-VAPOR-CHARCOAL-CAN-CANISTER-OEM-/281302206349?ssPageName=ADME:X:EAC:US:3160

not sure if it will do as good of a job, it is much smaller but i read where some guys were using them and they dont contain any electronics.

[Goldwing]

Until I found a spot to mount it, I had planned on smaller. The wrx unit doesn't have any electronics that I know of, though there is a slew of electronics in the tubing going to and from it in the wrx. I mounted the air pump just above it, out of the way of the planned trunk.

[Goldwing]

I mounted a seat today. Used Sparco sliders mounted to the 1" bar in the rear using a JB weld captured nylon locknut in the seat track. The front of the track is bolted to a cross mounted 1" bar which has another set of JB weld captured nylon lock nuts to mount to the X frame members. I epoxied the nuts so I could mount the slider to the seat before installing it. Then, once lowered into the car, I could run the bolts from underneath. Exposed button heads for the forward mounts, recess mounted Allen socket heads in the rear.
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[Goldwing]

Almost ready to go kart.
I took a moment to enjoy how far into the manual I've progressed.
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[Goldwing]

One important step before go karting. Insurance. I'm pretty sure I'm stepping beyond my homeowner's policy now that I have it running. I wasn't sure when that boundary is crossed, and my agent never got back to me, regardless it wouldn't cover me if something happened during a quick test ride. So, I got a policy started with http://www.ncminsurance.com (NCMinsurance). They do agreed value after the building is complete. I think I found them in the GTM area with the corvette ties. They're the same people who run the corvette museum that had the big sink hole swallow a few Corvettes recently. Back to cleaning the garage and working the car down onto its feet.

[Goldwing]

I was having trouble lowering the car with the ground clearance so low. I'm using a scissor lift which sits higher than the ground clearance of the 818. Trying to slide the lift out between jack stands seemed to be asking for trouble. Since I also struggled to get my other cars on the lift, I decided to build ramps to sit along side the lift. I used stacked, interlocked 2x4's on edge bound with threaded rod. Simple, not too expensive, and a solution to help me lift all my cars on the lift. Took all my available time to cobble them together, my poor cordless drill will never look the same, lol. Finally, my 818 is on it's feet, on 818 day, as someone pointed out earlier, Aug 18. Go kart tomorrow maybe?

[Goldwing]

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[svanlare]

I love the photo of the bookmark in the manual. Congrats on getting it to its feet on 818 day. Notice you also got the kit on the 18th. Looking forward to the go-kart video.

[Goldwing]

Thanks. And how about that for a coincidence? 7 months to go kart ready. Now, can I finish the basic build before winter? That's the question burning in my mind!

[Goldwing]

Go karted today! First go kart & first video uplink.


http://youtu.be/ZuyhVSiqVP0

Impressions, The steering is light enough. I learned to drive on a manual steering car, the 818 is a far easier steering effort (215/45-17). The clutch must have had rust or something from sitting so much, it was very grabby the first few shifts. The feel got much better after a few starts from a stop. I have to admit some renewed excitement after that! I also think some trimming of the 10 minute video was in order. That took a while to load. Anyway, for what it's worth, there you have it!

[Goldwing]

After listening to it, I honestly didn't chirp and squeal the tires as much as it sounds, lol. Starting out they chirped as the clutch grabbed hard. Then a few squeals in the cul-de-sac, that was about it. I'm not quite sure what the mic was picking up. Sounds crazy, lol. Perhaps a sound track is in order.

[AZPete]

Very Cool! Congrats! You said, "No leaks" but I noticed no sparks, no flames and no tow chain. Your go-kart sounds like mine in tight turns around the cul-de-sac as the front 215/45-17 tires rub. I don't think the video is too long because I LOVE go-kart videos. I can see the well-deserved pride in putting all those parts together into one part that drives. Now, do a few more laps around the 'hood!

[Frank818]

Congrats on that very important milestone!

No windscreen, no doors, no floor, open road! Reminds me of motorcycling.

Hey you got the k-tuned shifter, I forgot about that, feels nice?

[Goldwing]

Lol, ok maybe I should appreciate all those things Pete!

Frank, speaking of motorcycles, the throw on the k-tuned shifter reminds me of a motorcycle shifter. Even the feel for finding neutral. I like it, but I'm not used to it. Looks incredible.

I threw on my spare alternator this evening. Fingers crossed it works.

[svanlare]

Awesome. Don't worry about 10 minutes, I was happy to spend the time and will watch again from the hotel tonight when I can turn on the audio (as opposed checking it out here at work).

[Boog]

Frank, speaking of motorcycles, the throw on the k-tuned shifter reminds me of a motorcycle shifter. Even the feel for finding neutral. I like it, but I'm not used to it.
If you would, please expand a little bit. I've only spent a couple minutes on a motorcycle so I don't really understand what you are talking about, but I'm very curious about the feel of the k-tuned shifter.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Great job Rich, what's next?
Bob

[Goldwing]

If you would, please expand a little bit. I've only spent a couple minutes on a motorcycle so I don't really understand what you are talking about, but I'm very curious about the feel of the k-tuned shifter.

Hmm, direct, mechanical feel (no mushy business here).
Short, sporty throw in both directions (left/right & forward/back), compared to most vehicles I've driven with varying throws and mushiness, this was the shortest throw and most crisp feel I've driven. Great for quick shifting. Because, small movements at the shifter are comparatively greatly magnified at the tranny case, I felt clumsy at first, overshooting neutral. I didn't find myself thinking about most of it after a couple trips around the neighborhood. Several times I didn't feel the detent going into gear after passing neutral, lol, especially reverse. I saw that evidence the first trip down the driveway in the video. To try and recreate the mental image of the feel, think of a sporty manual transmission you've driven. Then shift the 818 transmission using the FFR shift bracket directly. Think of the KTuned shifter being about halfway between the feel of the two. Tough to put in words, I had to think about that a bit.

[Goldwing]

Great job Rich, what's next?
Bob

Thanks Bob! Go pick up some body panels at my buddy's house! I'm assuming the metal splash guard panels and other aluminum panels are behind body panels in the build manual for a good reason? I was just looking ahead in the manual to plan out that question I was also asking myself. I have a little more tidying up to do in the garage as well.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Thanks Bob! Go pick up some body panels at my buddy's house! I'm assuming the metal splash guard panels and other aluminum panels are behind body panels in the build manual for a good reason? I was just looking ahead in the manual to plan out that question I was also asking myself. I have a little more tidying up to do in the garage as well.
I'm planning on a couple of autocrosses in go kart trim to make sure everything is sorted out.
Bob

[Boog]

Hmm, direct, mechanical feel (no mushy business here).
Short, sporty throw in both directions (left/right & forward/back), compared to most vehicles I've driven with varying throws and mushiness, this was the shortest throw and most crisp feel I've driven. Great for quick shifting. Because, small movements at the shifter are comparatively greatly magnified at the tranny case, I felt clumsy at first, overshooting neutral. I didn't find myself thinking about most of it after a couple trips around the neighborhood. Several times I didn't feel the detent going into gear after passing neutral, lol, especially reverse. I saw that evidence the first trip down the driveway in the video. To try and recreate the mental image of the feel, think of a sporty manual transmission you've driven. Then shift the 818 transmission using the FFR shift bracket directly. Think of the KTuned shifter being about halfway between the feel of the two. Tough to put in words, I had to think about that a bit.

Cool, thanks for the description.

[Goldwing]

I'm planning on a couple of autocrosses in go kart trim to make sure everything is sorted out.
Bob

Ah well, if you must! Lol.

[wleehendrick]

Hmm, direct, mechanical feel (no mushy business here).
Short, sporty throw in both directions (left/right & forward/back), compared to most vehicles I've driven with varying throws and mushiness, this was the shortest throw and most crisp feel I've driven. Great for quick shifting. Because, small movements at the shifter are comparatively greatly magnified at the tranny case, I felt clumsy at first, overshooting neutral. I didn't find myself thinking about most of it after a couple trips around the neighborhood. Several times I didn't feel the detent going into gear after passing neutral, lol, especially reverse. I saw that evidence the first trip down the driveway in the video. To try and recreate the mental image of the feel, think of a sporty manual transmission you've driven. Then shift the 818 transmission using the FFR shift bracket directly. Think of the KTuned shifter being about halfway between the feel of the two. Tough to put in words, I had to think about that a bit.

Hi Rich,

Thanks for the detailed description of the K-tuned shifter. Half the people I know don't get why I'd spend so much when the kit comes with a perfectly usable shifter; the other half (gear heads and engineers) take one look at it and just drool! I'm a bit of a shifting junkie; neither my wife nor I have ever owned a slush-box, and our current vehicles are all front-engined, longitudinally-mounted, so I'm used to a short direct shifter linkage. My concern over the feel of the stock plastic shifter with extra long looping cables is why is why I splurged on Wayne's kit. The shifter has two pivot positions for both lateral and fore/aft throw, doesn't it? Is yours in the shorter or longer throw positions? I want it to feel as good as it looks!

Thanks,

Lee

[Goldwing]

Happy to try and put that into words.

There are two positions for fore/aft movement, one for lateral. I'm currently in the longer throw position. So, I would classify the two options as short throw, and shorter throw for fore/aft. I had many of the same concerns on the shifter, asking those ahead of me the same questions. I bought it for the drool-worthy bling, but I'll enjoy the feel too. I vaguely remember talk of a change in the throw position department since buying mine, so if yours turns out to have an extra mounting hole, there may have been an update.

[Frank818]

There is an adjustment for the side-to-side (lateral) movement? You mean there is one movement possible or one adjustment which means 2 movements? Like short and shorter, or just one short movement?

[Goldwing]

On the k shifter, there is only one cable mounting position for side to side movement. I guess that is all that's needed since the FFR bracket in back has adjustment holes to change the throw laterally.

The short and shorter applies to fore/aft gear engagement movement. I already have trouble feeling the detent going into gear in some cases. I have a feeling that's why Wayne added the inner mounting hole (short throw) for the cable in the VCP kit. At the original (shorter throw) cable mounting hole, it has to be a little on the clumsy side. Going from being short throw and crisp to the point of not being able to feel what is happening. I hope that helps explain.

[Frank818]

Ok, so if I would want more distance to the left it may be complicated. That's my personal problem, as since I will use my VW tranny, the reverse is left of the 1st (not down or right of the 5th) and the 1st is already quite close to the 3rd on the K shifter. I have to fit 2 gears there, not one. :) I'll have to deal with it.

[wleehendrick]

Thanks for the additional info, Rich. I think I mis-spoke; I know there are two pivots points for fore/aft throw, but yeah, only one for side to side. So based on your comments, definitely start out, and probably stick with, it in the 'long' throw position, which is plenty short.

[Goldwing]

Ok, so if I would want more distance to the left it may be complicated. That's my personal problem, as since I will use my VW tranny, the reverse is left of the 1st (not down or right of the 5th) and the 1st is already quite close to the 3rd on the K shifter. I have to fit 2 gears there, not one. :) I'll have to deal with it.

The bottom arm for lateral movement has room for mounting the cable further up the arm, though it might limit how much range of motion you can achieve at the transmission end. So, it could work, but depends on what you need, shorter throw for feel or greater range of motion. Above the cable mount, the arm thins into an I beam, so you would want to fill the hollow wherever you wanted to mount the cable. So if you wanted more throw up top, you could achieve that. If, to be thorough, you wanted a greater range of motion at the transmission end, it would require further modification to build a longer arm, but in effect creating a shorter throw while driving. I'm curious, I've owned a VW manual before, is reverse as simple as going another step left from first? I never took the shifter apart to see what was happening as I pushed down to release the lockout from reverse. Will you duplicate a lockout in the 818? Like a shift collar ring pull to unlock extra range left?

[Goldwing]

Frank, thinking about it more, I believe there is greater range of motion available at the shifter that isn't used with the Subaru gearbox. You probably have the range you need without modding the arm. Yours will simply swing a little more up top. If the throw is too much on top, and you aren't close to not having enough range of cable movement, you could mount it further up. I bet it works fine.

[Frank818]

Hey Rich, tnx for the info, I guess until the cables are all connected I won't be able to see the throw I have. Now I just play with it without any cables and the lateral distance between full left and neutral is very close (the angle is narrow).

About the reverse mechanism, I have seen drawings but not actually removed mine, I can only assume it works that way for now. The way it seems to work is the shifter rod has an L shape end at the bottom, the L facing right hand side. When not pushed down, the bottom edge of the L blocks on something inside the shifter. When you push down, the bottom edge of the L slides under what used to block it, allowing for a further lateral motion equal or so to the length of the bottom edge of the L.

I will build any technique that'll make sense when I see the K mechanism. I have to block the rod from going to the far left and then use either something I pull, slide or push in order to allow that extra motion. So far that's my plan without having anything plugged in yet. The solution, or 1st version of it if I ever improve it in the future, may be somewhat barbarian, as long as it works and doesn't look ugly. :)

[Goldwing]

If it is that simple, I bet a somewhat stiff spring sitting at the limit of normal travel for forward gears might do the trick. Such that you would have to push against it to reach reverse, but stiff enough to act as a gate to prevent inadvertent reverse selection. Simple and hidden. It might put unwanted pressure against the gear in use, but since it isn't used for very long (only while backing up), I don't see any problems. Should be relatively easy to mount underneath. Just an idea.

[Frank818]

Good idea Rich! Although I would probably add another component to that. I need to check how the motion will work, but it's possible if I just use one spring the rod will be blocked only when on the spring, but as soon as I move fwd in 1st it will fall alongside the spring and would want to go in reverse. So probably a shim or something that would be the length of the motion from far left fwd to 1st and using 2 springs on each end of that shim. The rod would slide on the shim and that may work. Then pushing hard to the left to engage R. Yeah I'll keep that idea in mind and check it out this Autumn. :) tnx

[Goldwing]

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33084

So, I found another use for the seat bracket.

A local shop buys wrecked STIs and sells upgrade kits for WRXs, parting out the rest. This Cobb bellmouth came twisted after the cat from the wreck, so he sold it to me for cheap. After moving the cat, I used an exhaust donut to twist around and up into a C6 Corvette muffler (new dealer cutoff). Driver's side, I think. With my lack of welding skills, I managed to tack most of it into place. Going for daily driver comfort on the noise, but still wanted something breathable. I thought about the mufflers with the internal valves, but it seems without equal length headers, they rattle terribly on the WRX's exhaust pulse pattern. This was my solution. I'm keeping it all tied to the engine, this the seat bracket crane setup.

[Goldwing]

33083
33084

So, I found another use for the seat bracket.

A local shop buys wrecked STIs and sells upgrade kits for WRXs, parting out the rest. This Cobb bellmouth came twisted after the cat from the wreck, so he sold it to me for cheap. After moving the cat, I used an exhaust donut to twist around and up into a C6 Corvette muffler (new dealer cutoff). Driver's side, I think. With my lack of welding skills, I managed to tack most of it into place. Going for daily driver comfort on the noise, but still wanted something breathable. I thought about the mufflers with the internal valves, but it seems without equal length headers, they rattle terribly on the WRX's exhaust pulse pattern. This was my solution. I'm keeping it all tied to the engine, thus the seat bracket crane setup.

[wleehendrick]

Clever! I went with with a short Flowmaster; it'll be loud, but I don't mind. I realized getting a quieter muffler would require some plumbing. That's a nice re-use of parts there.

[Goldwing]

Thanks! The FFR setup wasn't too bad going through the factory cat and the turbo. I threw the muffler on the end and liked how the drone-ish sound (which wasn't too bad to start with) completely disappear. I have yet to hear how it sounds revved up. I guess I have to wait for my welder to get back from vacation. I started test fitting body panels, which put the exhaust high on the list as the bumper interfered. Don't want to cut more than one exit hole, right?

[nkw8181]

well if you do I guess you will have dual exhausts?? lol

[Goldwing]

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I was NOT looking forward to cutting this exit spot out, just fearing I'd miss by enough to make it look off. I'm not sure how I'll trim it out yet, maybe something matching the other vents? I'm trying to decide if the angle of the twin tips is cool looking or 'off'. I think I need to pull the car out of the garage and take another look outside to help decide. At first impression I liked it. What do you guys think? Obviously it is subjective, and in the end my car, so I have to like it. With some effort, I think the tips could be lined up better to the bumper line.

[svanlare]

My brother in law is finishing a pair of strip plank kayaks for me and the most nerve racking step for both of us was when he cut the finished deck to make the hatches.

I like the look, but do think if pipes lined up with the bumper it would be even better. No need to change though, I hope to do as well.

[AZPete]

Rich, I like it but I agree that lining up with the bumper would be good.

[Goldwing]

My brother in law is finishing a pair of strip plank kayaks for me and the most nerve racking step for both of us was when he cut the finished deck to make the hatches.

I like the look, but do think if pipes lined up with the bumper it would be even better. No need to change though, I hope to do as well.

Yes! That same nerve racking feeling I have felt before! I remember making a special trip to find the sharpest, cleanest cut making blade I could find. Many hours of work riding on that cut in a very visible spot. I'd love to see pics when they're done. Any particular kayak model? Mine is a Guillemot (Nick Schade).

[svanlare]

That cut was my first thought when I looked at your bumper photo. They are CLC wood duck 12's. We'll be adding sail kits so it will be a bit like a hobie adventure island when all done.

3321933220

[Goldwing]

Nice work! A pic of mine is on the first page of my build thread. Finished it right before my 818 showed up. If you have a little extra wood, fiberglass, and epoxy left over, the back of Nick Schade's book "The Strip Built Sea Kayak" gives directions and plans for making wooden paddles as well. They complete the look and have lasted me 7 years so far without issue. If you go for it, aim longer when you're making the shafts. I seemed to keep losing length when cutting the joint in the middle to feather the shaft so the blades were set properly. I used them as a warmup project. Enjoy your kayaks. From experience, allow extra time getting to the water, people will comment. Drive them to the lake in your 818, and you may never see the water, lol.

[svanlare]

I knew I had seen a kayak on this site, but didn't realize it was yours. Is the christmas kayak going to reappear this year?

Maybe I'll do up the paddles as well. I had been leaning against it since I had wooden paddles for the pair of Klepper kayaks we have, but I've replaced them with the plastic ones over the years as they seem to work better for us.

[wleehendrick]

Rich, I like it but I agree that lining up with the bumper would be good.

Ditto. Keep the orientation, but staggering them might work nioce. You could try trimming the hole with door edge protector trim like Aloha used. I got some from Pepboys; it looks good (simple, black) and goes on over the FG edge nicely.

[Goldwing]

Since my garage is filled with 818 stuff, the kayak is still on display in the living room, sans Christmas lights. I pull it down as needed just having a strap screwed to a stud near the bow holding it upright. So, yes, when the Christmas lights come out, the Christmas kayak will return to spread good cheer.

A little iPhone Photoshop work here. It occurred to me that the easiest fix to the exhaust is to lengthen the tip that is recessed so that their reveal follows the line of the bumper. Like this:
33232
I like it better. Still mulling over possibilities.

[Goldwing]

Or, yes, what you says wleehendrick. If we didn't post so closely together, I would have looked bad there, lol. We are thinking along the same lines. I hesitate to reorient the tips as the bumper hole might look too big then. It's difficult to undo that cut! The staggered look has something to it.

Reminds me of some WWII fighter planes, fewer tips of course.

[wleehendrick]

A little iPhone Photoshop work here. It occurred to me that the easiest fix to the exhaust is to lengthen the tip that is recessed so that their reveal follows the line of the bumper. Like this:I like it better. Still mulling over possibilities.

Yeah, that's exactly what I was trying to verbalize. I like it!

[wleehendrick]

Yeah, that's exactly what I was trying to verbalize. I like it!

reminds me of the early 928 exhaust:

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=33233&d=1409938326

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[Goldwing]

Keep this up and I'll be aching to put an H6 in there!

[wleehendrick]

Keep this up and I'll be aching to put an H6 in there!

:D

but 928's had a V8 up front, remember? Porsche's GT/muscle car.

[Goldwing]

I don't know my Porsches well, but have always loved their flat six sound track. Music.

[wleehendrick]

I don't know my Porsches well, but have always loved their flat six sound track. Music.

Yup!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lPaeC0llaaE

[Goldwing]

Literally! :)

[svanlare]

Thank you for that! I love the flat-6 sound. And yes, the photoshop version looks better. The stagger works well.

[Goldwing]

Thanks for your thoughts guys, I think I'm going with the staggered exhaust tip look.

[Goldwing]

Well the exhaust is assembled and installed thanks to help from CustomE, another local builder. Though his business is so busy, he hasn't had time to build his 818 much. I used a mangled cobb downpipe, shortened, a lot. Then used an exhaust donut to turn it back up and over into a C6 corvette muffler, extending one of the tips. (I realize now, some of that is a repeat from an earlier post. Well, here's the final result. To support it, I used the FFR provided exhaust clamp and hanger along the side of the transmission, and a crane-like setup for the tail of the muffler using an unused FFR seat bracket. The sound was similar to a stock wrx, maybe a little deeper.

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[Hindsight]

Looks very nice! I bet the sound is great.

[Goldwing]

Thanks.

I nabbed a shot from underneath too to show fit. I pointed the O2 sensor towards the engine mount area and ran the wire under the transmission away from any heats source. I still have some trimming and finishing to do.
34267

[Goldwing]

I went the COBB AP route and got that installed today. So far, I unchecked p1400 and P0447 in the COBB off the shelf stage 2 ACN91 LWG map and loaded it up as recommended on another thread when I asked about my setup. (The exhaust you see partial COBB downpipe, a COBB short ram, stock turbo.). The codes were both dieted fuel system related. No other codes thrown yet, I guess I'll deal with them as they come. If no one beats me to it, I'll track the possible codes to disable and related components and start a thread on that topic. I think that would be helpful info.

For those that haven't gotten as far learning about the COBB Accessport (AP) and similar tuning products, COBB is just one option. Probably the more expensive route, but my local tuners use it, and it's somewhat easy to use. For that and other reasons, it's the road I chose. Once you get the AP, you request and download a copy of Accesstuner Race (ATR), that part is free. Inside the ATR program, you can open up the off the shelf maps (and some protune maps if they're willing to save the tune in 'race' mode rather than 'pro' mode. If not, have your list of codes for him/her to disable) and turn off various codes as needed for missing components on our 818's. I found a menu for 'advanced parameters' which pulls up a window with all the trouble codes with checked boxes next to them. Simply uncheck the unneeded codes and resave the map under a new name you can identify in the AP, transfer the map to the AP, then use the AP to program the car. A lot of that may be old hat to many, but it was all new to me, so thought I would give a quick rundown of what I learned knowing someone here will be in my shoes and just learning this stuff. :)

[svanlare]

I'm a ways away from tuning, but I do have it on my list of things to get smart about. The tutorial on COBB is helpful.

[Goldwing]

For better or worse, I installed a filler tube vent to prevent fuel from backing up while filling. Our boat growing up would do that, and drive me nuts. I don't want my 818 driving me nuts, lol. I'll keep working on a splash plate of some kind to help create a pressure difference at the fuel nozzle when it reaches full and trigger the auto shutoff mechanism in the pump. That bit may be optimistic, but stopping the backups is mandatory, and has already been complained about in the forum. I installed a tee at the vent port (Boyd tank), putting the rollover valve on top with the filler neck vent out the side of the tee. Tapped the filler tube pipe for a fitting up top with a 3/8" hose. I contemplated the wisdom of putting the tee before the rollover valve and did it this way for two reasons. 1) prior to the tee could getting ripped off in a wreck creating a leak, the 2" filler tube will already be long gone with a much larger spill. 2) the rollover valve seemed like a bottleneck point in the tank vent system and may do nothing to help vent volume if the filler vent is plumbed after the rollover valve.
3475734758

[Frank818]

Rich, the vent of the gas tank isn't enough to prevent this? The vent that goes to the canister.

[Goldwing]

There were a few comments/complaints that you have to fill slowly at the pump, or it can bubble back out. Having dealt and been annoyed with that in the past with the boat, I preempted it with a mod since I was already working on that area anyway. Auto shutoff would be awesome, but bubbling out is for the birds. It'll be months before I can test it out, however.

[Goldwing]

So to directly answer your question, Frank, I guess not.

[Jaime]

I'll keep working on a splash plate of some kind to help create a pressure difference at the fuel nozzle when it reaches full and trigger the auto shutoff mechanism in the pump.
I was think of rigging up an LED display of the fuel level sensor behind the driver's seat so it would be visible while filling. That way I would know when it's full and not rely on the auto-stop. This idea could be extended by putting a solenoid valve in the filler neck vent line and shutting off the vent when it's nearly full.

The low tech solution would be to plumb the vent into the side of the tank at the 95 percent full line. Then the fuel itself would block the vent.

[Frank818]

And on top of the backing out it doesn't auto-shut-off? Gonna be complicated every time you go at the pump, unless these issues are fixed by stuff like you did.

[Goldwing]

Unfortunately. Common issue with assembled custom vehicles with aftermarket tanks. Boats included. Auto shutoff is triggered by a tiny vent hole at the end of the fuel nozzle. It senses a change in pressure at the tip and cuts the flow. That's where the splash plate comes in for the nozzle to fit through and why a solenoid valve was mentioned above to close the vent. We need something to affect the pressure when the tank gets full for the auto shutoff to work. I haven't worked that out yet or read enough for people in our situation, but feel pretty good that flow down the filler tube should be pretty good for me now. I'll find out for sure next spring.

[Goldwing]

I haven't had a lot of time to work on the car lately and have been neglecting the build threads. I got a chance to work on trimming out the parking brake area, adding a little cell phone pocket. Has anyone trimmed down the parking brake adjustment bolt down a bit? It sticks up a lot. I threw a brake bleed screw cover on it for now.

35281

[Frank818]

Rich, you certainly got updates on your build by now? Been a while.

Speaking of a while, are you the one who fitted a stopper/limiter in the steering rack to prevent tires from rubbing the frame/wheel wells on full lock?

[Mechie3]

The stopper might have been fitted by someone with an early chassis. Early ones had the rack offset too far to one side so the solution was to either cheat the alignment or put a stopper on it to make it even left and right. I made a spacer for mine to extend the passenger side and make the center of travel centered on the chassis.

[Frank818]

The stopper might have been fitted by someone with an early chassis. Early ones had the rack offset too far to one side so the solution was to either cheat the alignment or put a stopper on it to make it even left and right. I made a spacer for mine to extend the passenger side and make the center of travel centered on the chassis.

I think that refers to something else. I remember early frames had a rack alignment issue. But here I am referring about a centered rack, with bellows perfectly equal, for which the turning radius is too short in a way that the tires rubs on the frame on both sides, equally, when at full lock on either side (obviously it rubs on one side at a time, depending which side you are turning to).

Someone adjusted that turning radius by fitting offwhite PVC or nylon limiters on the rack or tie-rod end, so that when turning full lock, it would stop the rack from turning more and rubbing on the inside wheel well or frame. I already got hub spacers so I can't add more there.

[Goldwing]

Rich, you certainly got updates on your build by now? Been a while.

Speaking of a while, are you the one who fitted a stopper/limiter in the steering rack to prevent tires from rubbing the frame/wheel wells on full lock?

Hey Frank,

Yes, I made a spacer from a nylon cutting board to clip on each end of the rack under the boots to limit the travel to prevent rubbing. I had already purchased the originally recommended 45 series tires in front so I worked to get those right. A spacer on the rear LCA arm spindle and limiting steering travel with 5mm spacers did the trick for me.

I've been on hold a few weeks with the holidays and a few other projects around the house that jumped to the front. Gotta love surprises. I was fussing with the center console and a little sound proofing when things got too crazy. I'll get back to it as the holidays settle down.

Happy Holidays all!

[Scargo]

... A spacer on the rear LCA arm spindle... Huh? I don't understand at all and if on the rear what does this have to do with steering?

[Hindsight]

He means on the rear of the front lca.... Its the "free caster mod"

[Frank818]

He meant rear of the front LCAs, very close to the front FW where the LCA's tabs and rear bushings are.

[Frank818]

Damn it, Hindsight just beat me by a minute. :)

[Goldwing]

Sorry, you guys have it. I had my daughter in my lap while trying to type that out. Yes, rear mount of front lca, and yes, the free caster mod.

[Buzz Skyline]

I found a menu for 'advanced parameters' which pulls up a window with all the trouble codes with checked boxes next to them. Simply uncheck the unneeded codes and resave the map under a new name you can identify in the AP, transfer the map to the AP, then use the AP to program the car. A lot of that may be old hat to many, but it was all new to me, so thought I would give a quick rundown of what I learned knowing someone here will be in my shoes and just learning this stuff. :)

Thanks for this information. My donor came with a Cobb AP, so I am going to do the same. You had to connect the green test mode connectors to do this, is that right?

Did you delete the charcoal canister and related components, now that you've disabled the CELs?

[Goldwing]

Thanks for this information. My donor came with a Cobb AP, so I am going to do the same. You had to connect the green test mode connectors to do this, is that right?

Did you delete the charcoal canister and related components, now that you've disabled the CELs?

Sorry I missed this, I haven't had any garage time for far too long. Yes, I had to connect the green connectors For the AP to program.

I deleted much of the on or near fuel tank stuff, but I kept the wrx charcoal canister. I mounted it between the transmission and the rear left tire down low. The two footed end mounts to the frame, the top end I rigged a bracket to support. I'll have to watch ground clearance back there.

[Goldwing]

I'm happy to see the trunk kit will work well with my exhaust setup. If I had waited to make my own trunk tray, I could have lowered the floor a bit more, but for the amount of time I've had to work in the garage the last 10 months, I need to be realistic at this point. Quick mockup pic: 44919

[Frank818]

Welcome back!

It looks to rub on the shifter cable, is that a matter of camera angle?

[Goldwing]

Thanks. It does as it sits here. The trunk tray is just sitting on the transmission. Installed, it would sit an inch or so higher, so everything should fit without issue, at most an extra cable mount could hold the shifter cable further out of the way. This is with Wayne's k-tuned shifter setup. It was just a quick mockup to eyeball any issues. I was mostly worried about the exhaust. I tried to choose the camera angle so others might be able to gauge fitment with their exhausts. A little heat shielding will be wise of course. Installing the body panels will confirm all that, but looks good so far.

[Goldwing]

Hi everyone! I’ve been through hell and back in the health department. An upper cervical chiropractor is reducing pain levels such that I’ve worked on the honey do list enough where I can be spared in the garage. I’ve slowly been digging my 818 out of the mess that accumulated around and on her. I’m hoping to keep this progress going and finally get her on the road. There’s probably a whole new crew of builders here so figured a quick hello and intro was in order. My name is Rich, I’m up in northeast Ohio in Medina. I have one of the earlier frames, #106, and past go kart stage working on body fitment and lights. I started her up for the first time in a few years and she warmed up with no leaks bringing some comfort to me about where things were mechanically. She’s back to life! My whole project was a replacement for a Honda Goldwing I had to sell due to health concerns. I developed a host of neurological complaints after an epidural steroid injection in 2011 including dizziness, blurry vision, migraines among others. Things took a rough turn in 2015 which is why my posts and progress stopped. While still not cured by any means, the upper cervical guy is peeling back enough layers of pain I’m useful again, some days. I hope to get to know some of you in the newer crew. Almost 5 years of inactivity is bound to show some turnover.

[aquillen]

Wow, glad you are able to get to projects once again. I followed your build and look forward to new words and pix. Especially that you are getting better and I hope you continue to improve. You're pretty close to a fellow 818 builder I talk with (and visited last year). I know he reads these threads...

[Jetfuel]

Rich, I’m one of the new guys here, but I’ve read your built and thank you for your contributions, some that I’ve used in mine.
For what you are going through all I can say is baby steps...baby steps.
Stay healthy

[Goldwing]

Maybe Doug Kirkbride? I hadn’t checked in with him yet to see if he finished yet? Thanks for the warm wishes. ��

[Goldwing]

Baby steps indeed! The forums are awesome for filling in the gaps. A great resource. What’s the jetfuel name stand for? I’m a grounded commercial pilot. I’m still hoping to change that, but it’s been 8 years now. ����*♂️

[AZPete]

Welcome back! I'm one of the old guys still around here wondering what happened and now glad you're feeling better. "The Phoenix" is an even more fitting name for your 818 project than it was years ago. I also look forward to your well-written posts.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hey Rich,
Glad to hear your doing better. The last time we talked I was probably in go kart mode.
I'm semi retired now. So if you need anything: parts or a hand, don't hesitate to call.
If you get anywhere close to Cincinnati, you better stop by so I can take you for a ride. That will light a fire to get some work done on your 818.
Bob

[Jetfuel]

Yes....what Bob said
Just let us know and we’ll pack a tent, mosquito net and a picnic basket and head your way
Jetfuel...I’ve been building Garrett engines and restoring business class planes for over 40 years

[Goldwing]

Thanks everyone for the welcome back! I was wiring headlights when I ran out of steam starting to look at bumper design. Did any of run into any snags in that department or learn anything along the way? I remember you having a few pictures, Bob. I’ll need to look through a few builds to see what’s been learned while I was playing Mr. Mom. Design, thickness of steel? Can the fiberglass be utilized as a bumper if reinforced and tied to the frame?

I’m still in digging out mode. Funny how things pile up! I have a window to work while my wife is off work on maternity leave. (We welcomed our third in August). Especially if the window comes to a close without plates bolted on this thing, some help with a last minute push to get me across the finish line would be in “make a wish” territory.

[Goldwing]

Bob, I have a friend who drives down to Cinci often on his commute out of town. He flies cargo, globally. Perhaps I could tag along with him, especially if he sees a better route home where he wouldn’t be stuck going back anyway just for his car? I’ll float it past him.

[Goldwing]

Just to update the build, here’s how my 818 looks now. The body just has some rough fitment so far so wires had a place to go.

113142113143

[Goldwing]

The garage is cleared enough to work. Resurrecting the build! Today I started kind of mindlessly fashioning a snorkel for the side air vent to feed the engine air intake some cool air. I’ll experiment with wrapping this funny looking collection of plastic bottles and jugs I had lying around in the recycle bin with a layer of fiberglass. Then cut it out in 2 or 3 pieces, reassembling most of it with some fiberglass tape at the seam, but leave part of it as a door with the ability to disassemble to replace the air filter now and then. I don’t have 3D printer tech at this point, so making it up as I go with this one. I think when I wound down in 2014, I left the tricky stuff for a time with a clearer head. A lot of this airflow stuff was staring me at the face digging the car out.

Looking at the intercooler, how are people faring with an air to air intercooler? I’m starting to dig through the forum, I’ve missed a lot of progression of knowledge having been sidelined. In case anyone happened to swing by with some feedback, I’d appreciate the share. I purchased a water to air intercooler shortly before going down as it was an unknown at the time. Subaru turbo power plant Insurance. I saw the 3D printed cowling some have used. Looked nice.
114273

[Hobby Racer]

Making a box out of the scrap aluminum panels from the kit works nicely also!

Cold Air Intake from the side vents (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?23199-John-s-EZ36R-H6-818R-Build&p=361832&viewfull=1#post361832)

[DSR-3]

Here is another option that worked pretty well. I was all set to copy Hobby's nice work and started getting hung up on the materials and design and remembered these cheap plastic ducts/adapters.
114298114299114300114301

[STiPWRD]

FFR now sells the side ducts:
http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/81145-818-side-scoop-air-ducts/

I got a set of these a few months ago but haven't installed them yet - it'll be a winter project.

[octobersknight]

Octobersknight here, glad you're back! I'm a "new" builder and am part way through my build. I'm still a little way from go-karting, but am pushing to get there! Good luck finishing up, I'll be right along there with you.

[Goldwing]

I started installing the AWIC kit I bought from Zero Decibel 4 years ago. Which led to a need to finally delete the secondary air pump system and deciding to swap in the VF48 turbo I had planned to save for later. With all the stuff needed to remove to access all this, figured I might as well do it now. Stopped short of a TGV delete. Waiting for gaskets to arrive now so I can throw it all back together. This evening, I assembled my new hat while sitting with my daughter. Used a Factpry Five patch and installed it on a cap I found on Amazon. I’ll leave a link to the hat in case anyone has similar tastes.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TM4GL3H/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_WDdJDbY494Z4M
115004

[Goldwing]

Thanks for the replies guys. The page break kept me from seeing your comments until I added something myself. Those scoop shroud things look helpful to transition to hoses. The airbox for the intake is built. Waiting to sand and paint. I tried using a little wax as a release agent rather than sourcing pva release. It didn’t work, lol. So, I’ll need to paint to cover up the mess of embedded masking tape. I think it’ll work for my needs. I’ll post pics as I get it painted and/or installed.

[Goldwing]

Making a box out of the scrap aluminum panels from the kit works nicely also!

Cold Air Intake from the side vents (https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?23199-John-s-EZ36R-H6-818R-Build&p=361832&viewfull=1#post361832)

Hobby Racer, I like what you did. I guess our thinking was along similar lines, I just used all fiberglass mat rather than dive right into metal working. My plan to cut it into a few pieces never really happened. I wound up cutting the cobbled together jugs out from inside the airbox. So, it’s all just one piece. I can access the filter’s clamp from outside the box, then take the box and filter out together. I can fit the filter out of the scoop side.

I guess I’ll save the other side sail vent for engine bay cooling.

Octobersnight, the go kart day does feel pretty good. I hope you get there soon. Welcome!

[AZPete]

Re the side vent ducts from FFR, I have them and like them for engine intake air and to the A2A intercooler plenum. The duct on the left side, however, could hold a pool of gas if you dribble while filling the tank (kaboom!), so I drilled a 3/8" drain hole. The same may apply to any left side DIY duct.

[Goldwing]

When I made my snorkel, I tried to leave the bottom edge such that water would just drain out the bottom. Thankfully, my mind was already there, but THANK YOU for the heads up! That sort of thing can make for a very bad day!

I just finished the AWIC kit install by Zero decibel motorsports. This was purchased 4 years ago, so revisions could have been made in the interim. It’s a great kit! I did have to make a few revisions to get things to fit. My push clutch made things really tight, so I had to put a dimple in the cross pipe. I almost went to clock the turbo (the VF 48 turbo is pretty easy to rotate the compressor housing, but I didn’t want to tackle TGV deletes too at this time. The tgv motor or sensor was going to interfere if I clocked it), but maintained the original plan. If I deleted a few more things it could have been a bit more straightforward of an install. I’m going to have to make my own forward IC bracket as the provided one didn’t fit around the turbo. I have a plan, but didn’t want to drag the welder out just for that. I used a different recirc valve tubing since something I had lying around had very convenient bends for the layout (71794 was the number on it). The recirc hose gets a pretty good squeeze behind the clutch, but it lets air pass. I still have to wire power to the water pump. I have some homework to find a convenient source for that.

Does anyone have a COBB tune for an 07 with VF48 to throw in there until I can get this properly tuned? COBB doesn’t have any off the shelf tunes for that turbo. I may stick an economy vf39 tune in to keep me out of trouble, but have a few feelers out for advice. Can’t drive it anywhere yet to get it done, but would still like to be able to start it and test things here and there. I forgot I intended to wait for the turbo swap for this exact reason. But, one thing led to another...

115215

[Pearldrummer7]

Thanks everyone for the welcome back! I was wiring headlights when I ran out of steam starting to look at bumper design. Did any of run into any snags in that department or learn anything along the way? I remember you having a few pictures, Bob. I’ll need to look through a few builds to see what’s been learned while I was playing Mr. Mom. Design, thickness of steel? Can the fiberglass be utilized as a bumper if reinforced and tied to the frame?

I’m still in digging out mode. Funny how things pile up! I have a window to work while my wife is off work on maternity leave. (We welcomed our third in August). Especially if the window comes to a close without plates bolted on this thing, some help with a last minute push to get me across the finish line would be in “make a wish” territory.

I know this is a little old but I saw that you were looking at bumper stuff in another thread. If you're just looking to pass legality, this was totally cool in NY state:
https://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13414-Frank-s-818R-build&p=215816&viewfull=1#post215816