Extras

[fordboy]

Getting ready to start my build and I have a coupe questions... Is it necessary to use the insulating mat in the foot boxes/cockpit area to reduce heat from headers ?? I've seen some pics where it's been applied on the engine compartment side..and a talented guy by the name of Tennessee Tim on the other forum used aluminum sheets with 1/4" standoffs for a heat shield. They looked neat. And any comments on the Breeze kit that moves the battery to the engine compartment?? Thks in advance fer yer 2 cents.

[Cobradavid]

Fordboy,

I put insulation on the outside of both footboxes and I put an aluminum shield on the drivers footbox front panel and the side panel next to the header. I also put insulation on the inside of the footboxes and the transmission tunnel. I did it for heat and some sound deadening. A footbox vent and blower also helps a lot.

The Breeze engine bay battery box is awesome. Easy to install and a great, well made product. Having shorter cables (vs. running the hot cable from the trunk) is a plus also.

David

[montyals]

I double insulated the entire cockpit including the footboxes and the trunk. Helps with heat and noise reduction. I think it was called EZ-Mat.

[MPTech]

Where do you live? (how hot is it in the Summer) and what engine are your planning to run?
I ran my car in gel-coat all summer, with the footboxes temporarily held together with a few strategically placed screws. I had minimal heat issues, even driving 300+ miles in a day in June. There were a couple small leaks (water came in during a downpour), but the biggest heat problem was heat coming into the cockpit along the side, by the door hinges. Once I stuffed some air-conditioning insulating foam between the body and the footboxes, behind the hinges, problem SOLVED.

With that said, I am currently permanently assembling the footboxes, siliconing and riveting them. I have also installed Damplifier and sealed all of the seams. This will provide better insulation and more importantly improve the tin-can sound in them. They sound MUCH more solid now.

I also installed Stainless Steel heat shields in the engine compartment, but these are primarily because I like the looks and secondarily for heat reduction.

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/MPTech/IMG_2003_zps77b3cab2.jpg

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/MPTech/IMG_2004_zpsb4270d5e.jpg

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/MPTech/IMG_2005_zpsa42070e5.jpg

I also have the Breeze Battery Box installed in the engine compartment and really like it. Easier to access and super short power cables.

[68GT500MAN]

I just used Fat Mat under the carpet and Cobra Earls foot box vents for the Summer. I like the warmth in the foot boxes when driving in the Winter.
Doug

[fordboy]

Thanks for the pics... I can see why guys are always yammering for pictures when new guys are describing their builds. 'Splains a lot, Lucy. Sorry if yer not old enough to remember that reference...... I live in NJ where we can have some hot weather, not as bad as Arizona I guess... as opposed to the nasty cold we've been thru and have coming up. I'll be running a Ford 306. I take it that hose going to top of D.S. footbox is from the brake vent opening..is there a fan in there somewhere ?? I see that kit is available from CobraEarl. Funny thing is I swore I wouldnt spend anymore than I have already on the kit, tires and drive train.... but s#$%t keeps popping up, doesnt it ?? And speaking of which, oh yea... my Herb Fraser door panels are ready....and I do want to order the Breeze Battery kit... and so it goes.

[MPTech]

yes, the hose on top is for the Cobra Earl's vents. I just installed them a couple weeks ago and haven't had an opportunity to try them, but they come highly recommended from the guys on the forums. I'm interested in trying them on the warm days 90*+, when any air movement is welcomed.
Besides, a little sweat won't kill you and the grin on your face is there long into the cool evening.

YES, the more time you spend on the forums, the more money and time you will spend building your car! But they are all MUST HAVE items!!! :cool:

Could I have built my car cheaper? DEFINITELY but I've enjoyed the customizations that make my car unique and what I want it to be.

btw, I quit counting and just put all of my receipts in a folder and NEVER add them up!

[ckrueger]

I have to quit looking at all the great builds and comments on the forum!! My list is gettting longer and longer. What I think I am doing so far is:

- Powder coating of aluminum panels
- Lizard Skin Sound/heat coating
- External heat shields
- Glove box
- Removable tunnel cover
- Floor panel under dash
- SS brake & fuel lines
- Extra compartment behind seats
- Drop compartment in trunk
- Turn signal controller
- Breeze front battery mount
- Heated seats
- Front oil cooler
- Powered foot box vents
- Side pipe heat shields
- Door panel upgrades

Can't wait to get started. :D

[MPTech]

If it helps, after I listed everything I wanted (upgrades, mods, replacements etc) I then prioritized them into items that would be best done during the build or would cost more to replace upgrade later (priority 1) and items that could be done after the build (priority 2 & 3).

for example............
- Powder coating of aluminum panels (priority 1)
- Lizard Skin Sound/heat coating (priority 1)
- External heat shields (priority 2)

- Heated seats (priority 2 or 3 (depending on local weather conditions)
- Front oil cooler (priority 3)
- Powered foot box vents (priority 1)
- Side pipe heat shields (priority 2 (maybe priority 1 if you have small children)
- Door panel upgrades (priority 3)

hope this helps

[chopthebass]

I am going for a 351W based 427 and I was told I won't need an oil cooler. I think they look cool though!

[ckrueger]

I am doing the Coyote and don't really need it for that either. Moves it down the priority list, but like the looks.

[chopthebass]

I am doing the Coyote and don't really need it for that either. Moves it down the priority list, but like the looks.

I might one in but don't connect it - just for looks!

[MPTech]

I agree they look cool, but can be problematic (needs a thermostat, so you're not running cold oil until the engine warms up).

FYI, I installed one, but the braided hoses just run through the Radiator shroud side panels and terminate (not hooked up). :cool:

[chopthebass]

I agree they look cool, but can be problematic (needs a thermostat, so you're not running cold oil until the engine warms up).

FYI, I installed one, but the braided hoses just run through the Radiator shroud side panels and terminate (not hooked up). :cool:

That's exactly what I was thinking. Thanks

[Avalanche325]

Just my opinion here on a couple:

- Removable tunnel cover - I don't really get this one. There is a full frame there. There is not a lot you can get to unless you plan on changing your shifter every week. And, there is a small panel for that.

- SS brake & fuel lines - They will look nice. You will need a serious flare tool and bender for them. The cheap ones will not handle it.

- Heated seats - I just got back from a drive. High 40s. I was nice and toasty with my heated seats.

- Front oil cooler - Looks good. Bad for your engine without a thermostat unless it is a track only car. You could use it for a power steering cooler if you are doing PS. I will probably do that later. The empty hole loooks a little strange to me.

- Powered foot box vents - Definately

[fordboy]

I laughed like hell when one of the guys on another thread said he was very meticulous about saving every receipt for what he bought extra for his build..and when he was done, he took the folder and lit it before taking another look. Said it burned for a while too. I liked ckrueger's list and MPTech methodical approach instead of my scatterbrained approach to GET EVERYTHING NOW. I know I dont want to think about adding anything at this point but just getting to my build.

[MPTech]

Trying to spend more of your money and time (because that's what forum friends are for :cool:).
I've done or currently doing these mods and highly recommend them, especially the Passenger Footbox mod!

1. MK4 front bumper bolts / grommets mod (http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/302516-mk4-front-bumper-bolts-grommets.html)

2. Rear bumper bolts mod (http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/287406-rear-bumper-bolts-mod.html)

and Modified Rear Bumper and Body Mounting on a Mk4 without Removing the Gas Tank (http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/295760-modified-rear-bumper-body-mounting-mk4-without-removing-gas-tank.html)

3. MK4 Passenger Footbox Mod (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?2396-Still-drilling-but-fabbing-too!&highlight=payne+footbox)

This will give you an idea of the increase (wider and longer).
I drew the original floor panel on the new panel.
Significant size improvement AND smooths out the transition on the engine side panel. Your passengers will REALLY appreciate the larger PS FB!
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/MPTech/P1280002.jpg

Here's the clearance with my 302 & BBK 4-into-4 headers. (I have better clearance on my passenger side, than the driver's side. between 3/4" and 1" on the front corner of the box. (plenty of clearance)
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/MPTech/P5060001-1.jpg

[CraigS]

Go easy w/ the SS lines as they are very hard to bend and flare. My car was built w/ SS brake lines and I needed to shorten and re-flare the rears for disc brakes. I bought a flare kit from Snap-On just for that job. It was still very difficult. The metal is so stiff. The problem I had was, after the final step for the flare, I could look into the bell end and see that the end of the tubing was not centered. I did 2-3 flares on each line until I got one I was happy with. Even then, they needed to have the fitting tightened to the ridiculous, before they stopped seeping. I have read really good reports about conifer (SP?) lines. Apparently they are very easy to bend and flare.

[ckrueger]

Thanks for the heads up on the SS lines. I have the Eastwood flaring tool on order so that I can experiment.

MPTech - Thanks for the link on the bumper bolts. Interesting read. I think I got the general gist of it, but until I get the car and see it, I don't think I appreciate all the actual issues.

This forum is a great place. Lots of great questions, answers and craftsman!

[MPTech]

The rear bumper bolts mod, are to make your life easier. Dropping the tank to install your rear bumpers is a PITA.
The front bumper bolts mod is to improve the method of installation and appearance. (The FFR method sandwiches the body between 2 45* sleeves, the mod uses very nice grommets and the body floats on the sleeves.

These are both good mods, but not critical, they are improvements. And after the car is built, most people won't notice, even FFR builders.

If you are installing a 302 or 351, I highly recommend the Passenger Side Footbox mod. Ride on the passenger side of a stock roadster for more than 10 minutes and let me know how comfortable your legs are, especially if you are taller and/or have larger feet than the typical woman. You'll be fidgeting and re-arranging your feet to get comfortable. You won't be able to put your feet next to each other (too wide) and you won't be able to stretch both legs out (too short). This mod addresses both of those limitations.
Take a look at the picture I posted comparing the original (drawn on the floor) to the new floorpan. Signiificantly larger.
I've had friends' wives that have ridden in their cars tell them they want them to change their footboxes to what I did, this is a LOT of WORK on a finished car, but under $50 of aluminum and less than a days work as you are building it. :cool:

Good luck, these are a lot of fun to build and more fun to modify!


btw, I went with the stock Factory Five brake & fuel lines and have no regrets. (except for the fact that I wasn't watching 2 weeks ago, where I was drilling drain holes in the floorpans and went right into my fuel line!! D'oh!! BE CAREFUL drilling next to your frame rails!!!!!)

[ckrueger]

Fortunately my wife isn't all that tall. (5'0") :) Do you know if the foot box mods will work with the Coyote?

[MPTech]

My thought process was that a lot of guys (friends and family) would be riding there. In fact I've ridden there when I let my dad and best friend drive my car. The foot room was appreciated!

This Footbox mod will not work with the Coyote, or the width would have to be modified to clear the heads & headers. Length may be ok, but the real value with this mod is the width.

[edwardb]

I did the PS footbox mod on my Mk4 build as well. Just this past weekend installed the 347 engine and it clears the modded box just fine. Just like MPTech's picture above. My wife cruises with me all the time in the Mk3, and I know she is looking forward to the much improved space available in the Mk4. If you're installing an engine it will work with, highly recommended.

I second the comments about ranking extras based on whether they can be put in now or added later. But be honest. I see guys listing extras they plan to add later that are very difficult compared to how it would have been while building, up to and including removing the body again. Examples: Side pipe heat shields and door panel upgrades, piece of cake to add later. Power brakes or power steering, just as examples, much harder.

I also highly recommend heated seats. We have them in the Mk3, and the only heater installed. With a decent coat and hat (which you need anyway) and the heated seats we can comfortably cruise in 40-50 degree weather. Much colder than that, and we wouldn't be out with any heat source. The heater/defroster makes much more sense if you're planning to add a top some day. Which we're not. Doing the same with the Mk4 BTW. Just put the pads in the seats last week. Now just need to wire them up.

Last comment: On the trans cover. I can see where it does make sense to a degree. Some guys do it to make adding fluid easier, but that's not a big reason IMHO. It's also much easier to adjust the shifter, add an after market shifter, etc. by removing the cover. But probably the biggest reason is it does make it quite a bit easier to take the engine/trans assembly in and out. With the cover in place, you usually need to remove the shifter from the top of the trans, and then reach through the hole to replace it (been there done that). Plus it's real easy to reach in and lift the transmission from above rather than from the bottom. Having said that, I permanently installed on my Mk3 build. Haven't completely decided yet, but will probably also permanently install on my Mk4 build. So you can see I wasn't convinced by the advantages. But many are.

[MPTech]

I agree with edward on prioritizing items based on how hard it would be to upgrade later. PS & PB would be a PITA, it could be done, but after replacing my Master Cylinder with the body on (even in gel-coat!) I would highly recommend doing it during the build and before body and PAINT!! :( (only stupid donor brake part I used!! dumb dumb dumb).

Another lesson learned: I ran in gel-coat this summer and debated installing the side-pipe heatshields. My dad and my 26 year-old nephew both burned their legs (with shorts on), even after they were warned several times. Burns were not emergency room level, but they were painful and I felt really bad. I fear when I see small children run towards these cars (and THEY WILL!!). If one of them leaned or placed there hands on the side pipes it could be a trip to the hospital, I'd feel absolutely horrible, even if I sufficiently warned their parents! (I've read horror stories)
I ordered my side-pipe heat-shields 2 months ago and they will be going on before driving season.

[chopthebass]

So when you guys decided to enlarge the footbox did you temporarily install the engine?

[CraigS]

I have burned myself at least once per year since 06. Too old to learn I guess although the burns are getting less severe. I haven't gotten shields but did wrap several layers of header wrap that I had left over.

[ckrueger]

Horror Story: When I was about 10, my father got a new Formula Junior car (Open wheel with a 1000 cc motor, front engine) The exhaust exited the engine and went the up the side of the car to the tail at about the mid point on the body. The car was on the trailer and had just been running with all his buddies standing around. I go running out all excited to see it and the pipe looked like a perfect grab bar to pull my self up on the trailer. I still remember how that ended.

I will be getting the heat shields for the pipes. :)

[MPTech]

ckrueger, sorry to hear that and it happens so fast you can't even yell "stop" before it's over!

chopthebass, no, I read a bunch of posts and jumped in feet first. If it was 100% failure, I still had my original panels, but it worked 100% great! NO issues! 302, GT40p heads, BBK 4-into-4 headers. clearance is a little bigger than the DS and I still had room to install Polished SS Heat Shields on both sides!
Very happy with this mod! You need all the room you can get in these. Try riding in a MK3.1 and see what I mean, the stock MK4 is larger, but this is even better!

[MPTech]

TOOLS!

There are a few tools that you will love for your build.
If you don't have access to one, a brake is great! Harbor Freight has a couple good ones, fortunately my buddy Rich has a nice 30"(?) one they we used for MANY aluminum projects.
Clecos and Cleco Pliers
RivNut tool (again Harbor Freight!)
one of those little LED lights that straps on your head is GREAT!

[edwardb]

Just a comment about heat shields. They're not a silver bullet. You still have to be really careful, especially when kids are around. The really dangerous (and I'm not kidding) heat source is the bend where they come through the body. This would really cause a serious injury. Not just a nuisance burn. No heat shields protect this area. Heat shields are helpful for avoiding burns getting in and out of the car. And if that's important to you, go for it. But still requires you to be vigilant when people are around the car right after you drive up. Especially when you open the hood and people want to start looking inside and they're right next to this hottest area. I've had to stop both adults and kids from getting too close until it has a chance to cool down. Even then I don't like people to get too close, but then it's my car I'm worried about and not them getting hurt.

FWIW, so far I don't have heat shields on my Mk3. In two plus seasons, I'm the only one to have gotten burned so far. Had shorts on (of course) and climbed out of the car being careful like always. But then I let my guard down after out of the car and leaned back in to get something and burned my leg on the other side. Smart. It definitely left a mark.