Odometer reset

[tmoretta]

Any suggestions/recommendations on who can reset my WRX odometer to 0? I'd rather not have my brand new 818 start its life with 112,000 miles on the clock. Is the re-calibration done in the cluster, or the ECU?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Any suggestions/recommendations on who can reset my WRX odometer to 0? I'd rather not have my brand new 818 start its life with 112,000 miles on the clock. Is the re-calibration done in the cluster, or the ECU?
It is done in the cluster by counting pulses from vehicle speed sensor. There is no signal for the odometer coming from the ECU.

Just a note. Running the wheels backwards will NOT lower the odometer ( Ferris Bueller's Day Off) on a 1961 Ferrari GT California or on an 02-07 Subaru.

[DodgyTim]

For mine (a 2006) I sent the cluster away, not the Ecu
Interestingly the guy who reset it couldn't take it back to zero, the lowest he could do was 0000095 Kms
Cost was $100 plus shipping, I had mine done in Australia, so i'm no help to you there

[07FIREBLADE]

Here is a place that sounds pretty promising.

http://www.whitegauges.net/products/In%252dHouse-Odometer-Reset-Service.html

[RM1SepEx]

It is done in the cluster by counting pulses from vehicle speed sensor. There is no signal for the odometer coming from the ECU.

Just a note. Running the wheels backwards will NOT lower the odometer ( Ferris Bueller's Day Off) on a 1961 Ferrari GT California or on an 02-07 Subaru.

That was really an 80's Ford Mudstang... with a sexy body. It would have had a mechanical ODO that could run backwards. I've always thought it was a very sexy car and building one would be great!

[tmoretta]

I checked out whitegauges.net, and it turns out they only work on traditional mechanical gauges, not electronic. They were, however, able to recommend Kevin Leonard in Napoleon Ohio (419 769 1845) who can do the reset.

[07FIREBLADE]

I was afraid of that. I also just sent them an email and they didn't respond yet. Are you going to have Kevin do yours?

[Larry J W]

I looked at hooking a pulse generator up to it running it up to 1,000,000 miles ie back to zero. At 140 MPH and running up another 900,000 miles it would only take 6,428 hours, or 268 days, or 10 months. Oh well I may run mine up to 100K to call it good! It would be a great post if someone found a better way.

[Xusia]

That was really an 80's Ford Mudstang... with a sexy body. It would have had a mechanical ODO that could run backwards. I've always thought it was a very sexy car and building one would be great!

I believe it was actually a kit car. It may have used Mustang running gear, but I'm pretty sure it was an original frame/body. I recall because I looked into that kit car back when it was still around.

[rtz]

" a modified MG with a fiberglass body "

http://wheels.blogs.nytimes.com/2010/03/31/ferris-buellers-choice-ferrari-for-sale/

[tmoretta]

Yes. I'll just send him the cluster, and he will return it with the bill.

[Quiny]

I looked at hooking a pulse generator up to it running it up to 1,000,000 miles ie back to zero. At 140 MPH and running up another 900,000 miles it would only take 6,428 hours, or 268 days, or 10 months. Oh well I may run mine up to 100K to call it good! It would be a great post if someone found a better way.

I was thinking the same thing but I figured I would run the pulses as fast as possible. I cant imagine there is a speed limit. The counter is on this IC - TMPH8820CKF manufactured by NS Japan the only other identification #'s are 1048 and 048KA. If I could find the data sheet on it then I could figure out how to reset it by the pinout. No luck so far.

[Kyle@AJW]

I hear that these people http://www.tacomaspeedometer.com/index/index.php can change it.

Another option is to buy a new one from the dealer. I would opt out for a STI cluster tho.

[Kurk818]

I hear that these people http://www.tacomaspeedometer.com/index/index.php can change it.

Another option is to buy a new one from the dealer. I would opt out for a STI cluster tho.

I drive by this shop daily on the way to work! Ill have to look into this.

[BC Huselton]

http://www.sayospeedometers.com/contact.html

They say they do it all of the time!

[iWire]

Once you car is running you could always take it to the closest Subaru dealer and they can reset it.

[tmoretta]

Are you sure the dealer will do that kind of work? Any idea on cost?

[iWire]

Are you sure the dealer will do that kind of work? Any idea on cost?

Depends on the dealer, but yes they usually do. They'll probably charge you for an hour, so depending on the labor I would say around $100.

[DodgyTim]

I'm not sure about the US but in Australia the dealer reset is only possible for very low miles, so the dealer can remove delivery miles and present the car as new.
Once a certain mileage threshold is passed, the dealer reset won't work, but as I said, it may be different for other countries.

[iWire]

If the dealer won't do you could try one of these as well. Some guys on RS25 have used them for their Subaru cluster odometer reset.

http://www.paspeedo.com/

http://www.aaellc.com/

[K3LAG]

I was thinking the same thing but I figured I would run the pulses as fast as possible. I cant imagine there is a speed limit. The counter is on this IC - TMPH8820CKF manufactured by NS Japan the only other identification #'s are 1048 and 048KA. If I could find the data sheet on it then I could figure out how to reset it by the pinout. No luck so far.

I just tried it. Above about 705 MPH (about 800 Hz) it won't process the signal. I need to go 892000 miles which would take about 53 days.

Kind of fun to watch the odometer click off a mile in about 5.1 seconds.

Larry

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I just tried it. Above about 705 MPH (about 800 Hz) it won't process the signal. I need to go 892000 miles which would take about 53 days.

Kind of fun to watch the odometer click off a mile in about 5.1 seconds.

Larry

That is cool, you could set it up to count until first test drive.
Bob

[Kalstar]

This is who I called.

http://www.mileagecorrectionservices.co.uk/subaru-mileage-correction-services/

They need the vin # and a letter as to why you are requesting the changing of miles. I told them what I was doing and they were fine with making the change.

[K3LAG]

I just tried it. Above about 705 MPH (about 800 Hz) it won't process the signal. I need to go 892000 miles which would take about 53 days.

Kind of fun to watch the odometer click off a mile in about 5.1 seconds.

Larry

I tweaked the signal a little more.

Now 914 Hz, 802 MPH, 46.34 days. It's really on the hairy edge. I don't think I can get any more out of it.

25387

Larry

[EODTech87]

This is who I called.

http://www.mileagecorrectionservices.co.uk/subaru-mileage-correction-services/

They need the vin # and a letter as to why you are requesting the changing of miles. I told them what I was doing and they were fine with making the change.how much did they want?

[wleehendrick]

I tweaked the signal a little more.

Now 914 Hz, 802 MPH, 46.34 days. It's really on the hairy edge. I don't think I can get any more out of it.

25387

Larry

Spoken like a true engineer...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=25388&d=1390278858

25388

[Erik W. Treves]

This is who I called.

http://www.mileagecorrectionservices.co.uk/subaru-mileage-correction-services/

They need the vin # and a letter as to why you are requesting the changing of miles. I told them what I was doing and they were fine with making the change.

and how much did they quote you?

[longislandwrx]

Now 914 Hz, 802 MPH, 46.34 days.
25387

Larry

I'll be back in March :D

[Quiny]

I tweaked the signal a little more.

Now 914 Hz, 802 MPH, 46.34 days. It's really on the hairy edge. I don't think I can get any more out of it.

25387

Larry

very cool, is that a 5v pulse?

[K3LAG]

very cool, is that a 5v pulse?

Approximately. The higher I push the frequency the more I have to tweak the voltage. At normal speeds, the pulse can be pretty big, but as I increased the frequency I had to reduce the pulse size and add a little positive offset. The bottom is a little under 2 volts and the top is almost 6.

I had to reduce the frequency back down somewhat last night. At 914 Hz it was so touchy that it would stop after about 20 minutes. It's down in the mid 800's now and has been running for over 12 hours with no problems.

It's fun to have an excuse to get the oscilloscope out. I'm still trying to justify upgrading to a digital scope one of these days. The old Tek 2465A is getting a little flaky at times. It's pushing 30 years old, so that shouldn't surprise me. It's just that a new 350 MHz scope is expensive. Especially one with 4 channels.

Larry

[Quiny]

Approximately. The higher I push the frequency the more I have to tweak the voltage. At normal speeds, the pulse can be pretty big, but as I increased the frequency I had to reduce the pulse size and add a little positive offset. The bottom is a little under 2 volts and the top is almost 6.

I had to reduce the frequency back down somewhat last night. At 914 Hz it was so touchy that it would stop after about 20 minutes. It's down in the mid 800's now and has been running for over 12 hours with no problems.

It's fun to have an excuse to get the oscilloscope out. I'm still trying to justify upgrading to a digital scope one of these days. The old Tek 2465A is getting a little flaky at times. It's pushing 30 years old, so that shouldn't surprise me. It's just that a new 350 MHz scope is expensive. Especially one with 4 channels.

Larry

I have an older Fluke digital scope and all I can say is that I miss my really old Hitachi. So is the dash in the car or did you just power it up on the bench? I just got my kit, maybe I will do the same thing and use it as inspiration to finish the car before the odometer rollsover. I will just have to set it to 100Hz (gonna take me awhile)

[Kalstar]

and how much did they quote you?

It was around $75.00 US dollar plus shipping.

[K3LAG]

I have an older Fluke digital scope and all I can say is that I miss my really old Hitachi. So is the dash in the car or did you just power it up on the bench? I just got my kit, maybe I will do the same thing and use it as inspiration to finish the car before the odometer rollsover. I will just have to set it to 100Hz (gonna take me awhile)

On bench. Won't go into car for a while yet. Only have to connect four pins. Pins 7 and 10 get power, Pin 6 gets ground, and Pin 2 gets speed sensor signal. All on connector C. I don't know if the pins are the same on all years. Mine is a 2005.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Great work K3LAG
I have lots of test equipment, oscopes, 32 channel data reecorders, canbus analizers and such.
I don't have a signal generator, can we all send over our clusters for a parallel race to zero miles. JK.

Have you thought about just replacing the 8 pin eeprom on the cluster circuit board?
Bob

[Oppenheimer]

On bench. Won't go into car for a while yet. Only have to connect four pins. Pins 7 and 10 get power, Pin 6 gets ground, and Pin 2 gets speed sensor signal. All on connector C. I don't know if the pins are the same on all years. Mine is a 2005.

Are you guys certain that the digital odometer will actually roll over back to 0 once you go past all 9's like old school mechanical units do? Would be a rude surprise to find out it gets to all 9's and just stays there.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Are you guys certain that the digital odometer will actually roll over back to 0 once you go past all 9's like old school mechanical units do? Would be a rude surprise to find out it gets to all 9's and just stays there.

it may just hang at 999,999. Only one way to find out.
K3LAG, Let us know when you get there.
Bob

[K3LAG]

Great work K3LAG
I have lots of test equipment, oscopes, 32 channel data reecorders, canbus analizers and such.
I don't have a signal generator, can we all send over our clusters for a parallel race to zero miles. JK.

Have you thought about just replacing the 8 pin eeprom on the cluster circuit board?
Bob

I haven't even taken the back off the cluster to see what is there. Might be worth looking at, but I don't know enough about how the cluster works to know if that might screw up something else.

My signal generator is a cheap one. It's a Vectronics VEC-4001K. You build it from a $99 kit . It does sine, square and triangle waves from 1 Hz to 1 MHz. Adjustable amplitude from 0-12 volts and offset from -6 to +6 volts. Building hobby stuff is one of the rare times I get to use a soldering iron any more.

Larry

[K3LAG]

it may just hang at 999,999. Only one way to find out.
K3LAG, Let us know when you get there.
Bob

I hope it doesn't hang. I wouldn't think it would. While I expect it's extremely rare (if ever) for a WRX to exceed 1 million miles, you would still need to count the mileage once you did. I wouldn't think it would be acceptable to just stop counting.

At the current rate, it should roll over on March 10 at 8:45 PM. It's currently running at an equivalent of 760 MPH.

While the engineer in me enjoys doing it this way. It's only worth it since I have all the stuff (and time) to do it. Paying someone $100 or less to reset it is probably a smarter way to do it.

Larry

[Bob_n_Cincy]

here is a video on reprogramming the cluster memory chip

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8Rcy4AYsx8s

Her is a video on changing the color of the back lighting on the cluster.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ym4keiOblGo

[Xusia]

For what it's worth, I called a bunch of speedo repair places (most listed previously in this thread) and learned the following:
Sayo Speedometers (http://www.sayospeedometers.com/contact.html): $150 + shipping
Tacoma Speedometer (http://www.tacomaspeedometer.com/index/index.php): They claimed resetting the odometer to zero is against the law, and wanted no part in it. This was after I explained the original car is being dismantled and that the cluster would go into a new car.
Palo Alto Speedometer (http://www.paspeedo.com/): $175 + shipping
Advanced Auto Electronics (http://www.aaellc.com/): $140 + shipping
Subaru Mileage Correction Services (http://www.mileagecorrectionservices.co.uk/subaru-mileage-correction-services/): They are in the UK, so I didn't bother.

I plan to go with Advanced Auto Electronics, not because they are the cheapest, but because I liked what they had to say. They actually disassemble the cluster, reprogram the chip(s) directly, and then calibrate every single guage. Awesome! And they were friendly too... :)

[metros]

Thanks for sharing that info xusia.

[nkw8181]

I sent mine to http://www.aaellc.com. it was 140 which included shipping it back to me. They changed all the bulbs and set the speedometer to 15 miles (lowest it would let them). I expect to be very happy with the result (will be a while before testing since I need power). 15 vs 121k, yep much better.

[K3LAG]

it may just hang at 999,999. Only one way to find out.
K3LAG, Let us know when you get there.
Bob

Still running. Passed 500K miles earlier today. Should be to 000000 sometime on March 11th unless it stops at 999999.

Larry

[Quiny]

Still running. Passed 500K miles earlier today. Should be to 000000 sometime on March 11th unless it stops at 999999.

Larry

thanks Larry, I was just about to ask you how it was going.

[STiPWRD]

Hey Larry, I too am eagerly waiting to see how your approach turns out. One question though, I couldn't tell what voltage range you were using in post #24. I'm trying to replicate this on my 06 Sti cluster with a signal generator but the result is not working consistently. For example, the speedo dial will spike for about a second and then fall back down. After a bunch of attempts, I got the odometer to log 0.2 miles but that's it. I'm using a square wave from 0-5V at 800Hz with 50% duty cycle (5V for 625usec, 0V for 625usec). I got the same result with a 15% duty cycle as well.

[K3LAG]

Hey Larry, I too am eagerly waiting to see how your approach turns out. One question though, I couldn't tell what voltage range you were using in post #24. I'm trying to replicate this on my 06 Sti cluster with a signal generator but the result is not working consistently. For example, the speedo dial will spike for about a second and then fall back down. After a bunch of attempts, I got the odometer to log 0.2 miles but that's it. I'm using a square wave from 0-5V at 800Hz with 50% duty cycle (5V for 625usec, 0V for 625usec). I got the same result with a 15% duty cycle as well.

My square wave is only about 4v peak to peak and it has an offset of about 1.6v. So, the square wave goes from 1.6v to 5.6v. The offset and voltage are pretty touchy. I can run about 880 Hz reliably. I can get up to 950 Hz to run for an hour or two, but it aventually quits working. The duty cycle is 50%.

Larry

[STiPWRD]

My square wave is only about 4v peak to peak and it has an offset of about 1.6v. So, the square wave goes from 1.6v to 5.6v. The offset and voltage are pretty touchy. I can run about 880 Hz reliably. I can get up to 950 Hz to run for an hour or two, but it aventually quits working. The duty cycle is 50%.


Thanks for the info! I finally got my cluster to run off of an old pulse generator (Global specialties 4001). Now I just have to wait 2 months... I don't think the board I was trying to use before to generate the signal was working properly. After work this past Friday, I was able to play around with a more expensive pulse generator (Agilent 33220A) to figure out what worked and what didn't so I thought I'd share some results that may be interesting to others. I tried several different square wave voltage ranges to see if they would properly generate a speedo signal that the cluster would read. Here are the results:

1V to 5V: Worked
0V to 5V: Worked
0V to 3.3V: Didn't work

I always kept a 50% duty cycle. Also, I tried different frequencies and found that the cluster would accept frequencies greater than 1000Hz but that the odometer rate would not increase. For instance, the cluster would log miles at the same rate with inputs from 1000Hz to 2500Hz. One thing to note is that I'm using an 06 Sti cluster, which I believe has an entirely different board architecture that older wrx clusters. Here's a pic of the board:
26466

[K3LAG]

Passed 900k miles this evening. 5 more days.

Larry

[Goldwing]

I'd be tempted to leave it at 900k, just to go along with the uniqueness of the car.

[malin818]

I can help with that please contact me for more info.

[longislandwrx]

I can help with that please contact me for more info.

sounds legit.

[K3LAG]

About two hours left!

Larry

[K3LAG]

The answer is now known. It stops at 999999. No rollover.

Larry

[Xusia]

Oh man! I guess if I think about it, that makes sense. That way it's obvious it's got a lot of miles.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

The answer is now known. It stops at 999999. No rollover.

Larry

I suspected that. see my post earlier in this thread.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12966-Odometer-reset&p=135918&viewfull=1#post135918

The internal counter is probably 32 bit which means 4,294,967,296
A 16 bit counter would only be 65,526 miles and would not be big enough.

I'll try replacing the memory chip when I get a chance.

Edit: you should call Subaru and tell them you got a million miles on you car. Ask them to send you a new dash.
Bob

[STiPWRD]

The answer is now known. It stops at 999999. No rollover.

Larry
Crap, lol well there goes that plan. I might run mine up to an even number like 500,000 and start from there (at 300,000 right now)

[K3LAG]

The internal counter is probably 32 bit which means 4,294,967,296
A 16 bit counter would only be 65,526 miles and would not be big enough.


Bob

It appears not to be stored as an integer. According to this link (from STiPWRD's build thread) http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t105267-diy-reprogram-odometer-your-swapped-dash.html it is encoded in a rather strange way. Even in this case they don't seem to have figured out exactly how to encode it, just get it 'close enough.'

Larry

[nkw8181]

I'm not sure how they did it but they said it now shows 15 miles. (I can't verify until I hook it up to power)


I sent mine to http://www.aaellc.com. it was 140 which included shipping it back to me. They changed all the bulbs and set the speedometer to 15 miles (lowest it would let them). I expect to be very happy with the result (will be a while before testing since I need power). 15 vs 121k, yep much better.

[STiPWRD]

I'm not sure how they did it but they said it now shows 15 miles.
I sure am tempted to send mine over, might just follow through an do it!

[K3LAG]

I win!!!!

27087

Plan B, reprogramming the eeprom did the trick.

This link, from STiPWRD's build thread gave me the clues I needed: http://www.rs25.com/forums/f105/t105267-diy-reprogram-odometer-your-swapped-dash.html

If you set the values in eeprom to 0000 with a check word of FFFF you get 15 miles. I did that first and it worked fine.

If you set the values to FFFE with a check word of 0001 you get 0.

I expected to get 999999 with FFFE which I would then roll over to 0, but when I plugged the eeprom in it was at 0 so there we go!

Next step is to change backlighting to orange/amber and the cluster will go back together.

Larry

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hey Larry
Great job.
Can you burn about 100 copies of the 50 cent eproms and sell them to anyone for 10 buck each for your efforts and time.
I figure you have about a 1000 hours into this.

There is probably another number in the eprom that calibrates the odometer and speedo based on tire diameter.
Bob

[K3LAG]

I have some extra eeproms since I had to buy a minimum of 10 from Jameco. I'm a bit leery of selling them to other folks because there is more data in the eeprom than just the odometer value. For instance, some set of bits controls which gauge is the tach vs speedo and some other ones turn on/off the outdoor temp display. Who know what else is in there. If someone had the exact same model cluster as mine, I might consider it.

I didn't use the home brew programmer shown in the thread above. I used the ICSP port on my PICKit 2 programmer. Worked like a champ.

Larry

[bompus]

Would you consider offering this as a vendor service if we send in our cluster to you? I'd do it myself, but then I have to buy a programmer, de-solder, solder, etc. It would be nice to have a service for this.

[Pearldrummer7]

Would you consider offering this as a vendor service if we send in our cluster to you? I'd do it myself, but then I have to buy a programmer, de-solder, solder, etc. It would be nice to have a service for this.

This would be a really cool idea! I would pay for this service.

[Kalstar]

Would you consider offering this as a vendor service if we send in our cluster to you? I'd do it myself, but then I have to buy a programmer, de-solder, solder, etc. It would be nice to have a service for this.

I would also happily pay you.

[K3LAG]

The thought of offering it as a service has crossed my mind, but I have two concerns:

1. How much to charge. The parts are cheap. I would replace the EEPROM on your cluster with a new one in a socket and return your original EEPROM unchanged. But, my time is pretty precious and when I factor in the work itself plus packaging and shipping I'd have to charge more than some might think it's worth. What do you guys think would be a reasonable price?

2. Although the job is pretty easy, I'd be worried about messing up someones cluster. I'd have to do it without any kind of guarantee because I don't have the ability to verify that the cluster works properly, in all ways, when I get it or after I modify it. I don't want to have to deal with the situation where I accidentally mess up someones cluster or someone sends me one and claims I broke it when it was already damaged.

I think if I did it, I'd want some evidence that you are building an 818, I don't want everyone and his brother asking for the service as some may want to change their mileage for nefarious reasons.

Also, I can only do it for clusters that have an 8 pin DIP EEPROM, some of the later clusters are surface mount and I don't want to deal with them.

Larry

[FFRSpec72]

Wouldn't the easiest be to just offer the preprogrammed EEPROM for a given set of cluster/EEPROM versions, and let the folks mess with the de soldering and soldering and then your life is simpler and easy to mail out.

So I send you my EEPROM, you send me back (1) my old EEPROM unchanged (2) a EEPROM socket and (3) a new EEPROM that has been copied from the EEPROM I sent you and the mileage values changed.

[Jaime]

I have some extra eeproms since I had to buy a minimum of 10 from Jameco.I only see the 256x8 version (http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_108855_-1) at Jameco. From the RS25 post referenced earlier, I thought it was a 93c56EN, which is the 128x16 version. It has the same capacity, but reads in 16 bit chuncks. What markings were on your original cluster chip?

BTW, I have a PICStart+ and it doesn't do EEPROMs. I'm going to have to whip up a programmer tonight.

[K3LAG]

Wouldn't the easiest be to just offer the preprogrammed EEPROM for a given set of cluster/EEPROM versions, and let the folks mess with the de soldering and soldering and then your life is simpler and easy to mail out.

So I send you my EEPROM, you send me back (1) my old EEPROM unchanged (2) a EEPROM socket and (3) a new EEPROM that has been copied from the EEPROM I sent you and the mileage values changed.

That could probably work, but some people seemed to want to avoid doing the desoldering and soldering themselves. It would definitely be easier for me and less expensive.

Larry

[K3LAG]

I only see the 256x8 version (http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_108855_-1) at Jameco. From the RS25 post referenced earlier, I thought it was a 93c56EN, which is the 128x16 version. It has the same capacity, but reads in 16 bit chuncks. What markings were on your original cluster chip?

BTW, I have a PICStart+ and it doesn't do EEPROMs. I'm going to have to whip up a programmer tonight.

Pin 6 determines whether it is 128x16 vs 256x8.

If you are going to whip up a serial programmer as in the thread, make sure you are using a real serial port. USB->serial converters often won't work because they don't provide enough power.

Larry

[Xusia]

My thoughts: I completely understand where you are coming from Larry. There are other vendors that provide this service (with appropriate warranty) for $150-$180, so if it's not worth it to you to provide it for less than that, why would you bother?

Personally, I like the idea of you just sending back an pre-programmed EEPROM. I like it because there is no risk for you, and therefore it should be fairly cheap. This gives folks options. If someone wants to go the cheap route, they have an option that requires a bit of work. They can do that work themselves, or pay someone else to do it. If they want it all done for them, there are the aforementioned vendors that can provide that level of service. Everyone's happy!

[Jaime]

Pin 6 determines whether it is 128x16 vs 256x8.

If you are going to whip up a serial programmer as in the thread, make sure you are using a real serial port. USB->serial converters often won't work because they don't provide enough power.

Larry
Computer <--> USB to Serial Adapter <--> Serial Cable <--> MAX232 <--> PIC16F84 (5V properly powered) <--> 93C56

That's what I have lying around, so I won't have any problems with voltage.

[Jaime]

Pin 6 determines whether it is 128x16 vs 256x8.Pin 6 is only active on the C part, for A and B parts, the datasheet reads "ORG/PE: No internal connections on 93XXA/B". Jameco lists that part as being 93C56A. What part did they send you?

[K3LAG]

pin 6 is only active on the c part, for a and b parts, the datasheet reads "org/pe: No internal connections on 93xxa/b". Jameco lists that part as being 93c56a. What part did they send you?

sci 93c56p

[Jaime]

Thanks to K3LAG's work, I now have my odometer all set for my build.

27220

I didn't want to wait for a programmer to come in the mail -- the really cheap ones come directly from China and take weeks. So, I put this together:

27221

I used a few RS232 interface chips (MAX232), some wires, some capacitors, and a USB-to-serial cable. I also added a socket for the EEPROM in my gauge cluster in case I have to tweak it some more.

27222

[malin818]

EDIT: Post removed by mod

[longislandwrx]

Thanks to K3LAG's work, I now have my odometer all set for my build.

I used a few RS232 interface chips (MAX232), some wires, some capacitors, and a USB-to-serial cable. I also added a socket for the EEPROM in my gauge cluster in case I have to tweak it some more.

27222

Looks like K3LAG did it too.. now that is awesome.

it would be cool to hook up the intake air temp sensor to the ambient temp sensor.

[afbeefcake]

Looks like K3LAG did it too.. now that is awesome.

it would be cool to hook up the intake air temp sensor to the ambient temp sensor.

You could put the OAT sensor in the intake. that way the display would show your intake temp.

Its not hard to get the OAT display working. I have made harnesses before to get it to work on wrxs with swapped clusters.

I also build an in circuit programmer to reprogram the eeproms without the need to remove them from the cluster board.

[longislandwrx]

Yeah that's what I meant...

"it would be cool to hook up the intake air temp sensor to the ambient temp display. "

moving the oat would be easier too, especially if you were using the factory airbox.

PS you have some awesome cars... still have that SVX?

[grathke]

This place looks promising too:

http://www.odo-pro.com/digital-mileage-correction.html

I've not used them yet, if anyone does, let us know how it goes.

[Harley818]

I would be interested in anyone else does the reset.
K3Lag tried mine, but its metric for Canada..... and didn't work.s

[aquillen]

My project under Arts818 - I walked through the programming exercise to reset to anything including to = 0. I did one for another builder earlier this year, he sent me some emissions parts and a left over instrument panel in trade for my work - but that was not expected nor a demand trade. Like the switchback project, where I've done those for nothing for guys - it's my payback to the forum for all the info shared. So far nothing has turned into a big demand and so I don't mind doing a one off here and there. Several guys can attest that I sent switchback units or parts kits to them at N/C.

I'd be happy to program a chip - send me your chip - I'll make another and return both to you. I'll even do the whole cluster if you don't have a resource to do the chip pull. You just have to get it to me and back. Now, given in this thread a way back K3LAG had a problem with metric, that could catch me out as well. Also he points out, things can go wrong when you are getting into electronic parts as well as software, that non-OEM guys (like us) when they go poking around in there can end up with a major fail. I can't cover nor promise anything more than I'll read the chip, copy it, make a modified version and send both back. When I got the 93c00 chip to do mine, I got a package of 10 for like $5.00 - pocket change.

Now, If things go South, unlikely but - well - I can't cover it. The bargain is I do my best but that is as far as I go. That's where the 'get what you pay for' comes in. I think though that given the prices of used clusters on e-bay, vs. a commercial source that will do a cluster for say $150 (guaranteed work), a second go around would still be less expensive even if a cluster died on my watch. That said, I've been doing electronics from a-z for over 50 years and have a pretty decent track record. And, I've done three of these so far - my first was on my own Legacy cluster, then a build project over in Ohio, and then the Impreza cluster he gave me. (that was good fortune because I didn't realize the Legacy cluster is bigger and doesn't fit the FFR dash.

One more thing about getting into these - the original chip can be put back in and you are back where you started - if programming a new one doesn't work because of the metric thing or whatever...

You can pm me or conduct the whole thing here on the blog. Better yet, come to NW Indiana and we'll do it together.

[K3LAG]

Actually the problem with Harley818's is not that it's metric. At one time I had images for both imperial and metric ones but the images for the metric ones got lost in VM crash. To do Harley818's I had him send his cluster so I could make a new image and provide him a reprogrammed one. For some reason, I was not able to reliably read his odometer eeprom. Every time I read it, I got a different result. In the hundreds of them that I have done, that is the only time I've had that problem. It seemed like a weird timing incompatibility between his chip and my programmer. I played with it for a couple of days with no success.

I'm not advertising my parts anymore but I do still have a few left so PM me if you want one until I run out.

Larry

[Harley818]

My project under Arts818 - I walked through the programming exercise to reset to anything including to = 0. I did one for another builder earlier this year, he sent me some emissions parts and a left over instrument panel in trade for my work - but that was not expected nor a demand trade. Like the switchback project, where I've done those for nothing for guys - it's my payback to the forum for all the info shared. So far nothing has turned into a big demand and so I don't mind doing a one off here and there. Several guys can attest that I sent switchback units or parts kits to them at N/C.

I'd be happy to program a chip - send me your chip - I'll make another and return both to you. I'll even do the whole cluster if you don't have a resource to do the chip pull. You just have to get it to me and back. Now, given in this thread a way back K3LAG had a problem with metric, that could catch me out as well. Also he points out, things can go wrong when you are getting into electronic parts as well as software, that non-OEM guys (like us) when they go poking around in there can end up with a major fail. I can't cover nor promise anything more than I'll read the chip, copy it, make a modified version and send both back. When I got the 93c00 chip to do mine, I got a package of 10 for like $5.00 - pocket change.

Now, If things go South, unlikely but - well - I can't cover it. The bargain is I do my best but that is as far as I go. That's where the 'get what you pay for' comes in. I think though that given the prices of used clusters on e-bay, vs. a commercial source that will do a cluster for say $150 (guaranteed work), a second go around would still be less expensive even if a cluster died on my watch. That said, I've been doing electronics from a-z for over 50 years and have a pretty decent track record. And, I've done three of these so far - my first was on my own Legacy cluster, then a build project over in Ohio, and then the Impreza cluster he gave me. (that was good fortune because I didn't realize the Legacy cluster is bigger and doesn't fit the FFR dash.

One more thing about getting into these - the original chip can be put back in and you are back where you started - if programming a new one doesn't work because of the metric thing or whatever...

You can pm me or conduct the whole thing here on the blog. Better yet, come to NW Indiana and we'll do it together.

Hi Art,
Thanks for the offer. I would love to get this odometer back to zero, and I know Larry tried. Can't get any worse than it is now....
Right now I am enjoying driving the car, so when I take it apart to paint it later this Fall, I will contact you to see if you are still up to the challenge.
Thanks.

[iblackwe]

My project under Arts818 - I walked through the programming exercise to reset to anything including to = 0. I did one for another builder earlier this year, he sent me some emissions parts and a left over instrument panel in trade for my work - but that was not expected nor a demand trade. Like the switchback project, where I've done those for nothing for guys - it's my payback to the forum for all the info shared. So far nothing has turned into a big demand and so I don't mind doing a one off here and there. Several guys can attest that I sent switchback units or parts kits to them at N/C.

I'd be happy to program a chip - send me your chip - I'll make another and return both to you. I'll even do the whole cluster if you don't have a resource to do the chip pull. You just have to get it to me and back. Now, given in this thread a way back K3LAG had a problem with metric, that could catch me out as well. Also he points out, things can go wrong when you are getting into electronic parts as well as software, that non-OEM guys (like us) when they go poking around in there can end up with a major fail. I can't cover nor promise anything more than I'll read the chip, copy it, make a modified version and send both back. When I got the 93c00 chip to do mine, I got a package of 10 for like $5.00 - pocket change.

Now, If things go South, unlikely but - well - I can't cover it. The bargain is I do my best but that is as far as I go. That's where the 'get what you pay for' comes in. I think though that given the prices of used clusters on e-bay, vs. a commercial source that will do a cluster for say $150 (guaranteed work), a second go around would still be less expensive even if a cluster died on my watch. That said, I've been doing electronics from a-z for over 50 years and have a pretty decent track record. And, I've done three of these so far - my first was on my own Legacy cluster, then a build project over in Ohio, and then the Impreza cluster he gave me. (that was good fortune because I didn't realize the Legacy cluster is bigger and doesn't fit the FFR dash.

One more thing about getting into these - the original chip can be put back in and you are back where you started - if programming a new one doesn't work because of the metric thing or whatever...

You can pm me or conduct the whole thing here on the blog. Better yet, come to NW Indiana and we'll do it together.

I also have a metric gauge cluster, I actually have 2 one 2003 wrx and a 2004 wrx (2004 is the one in which I am going to use). I would gladly send you the 2003 WRX one with zero liability to tinker with in order to develop a way to reset the odometer! Then if it works I would also gladly buy a chip from you to replace the one in my 2004 cluster. Let me know what you think and hopefully this would solve our metric odometer problems!

Thanks,
Ian

[aquillen]

Be glad to try these for both of you - send a PM for my address.

[Chef818]

Did you have success with the metric cluster reset? I just bought a JDM VER8 STI guage pod and would like to get the 100,000+ kph down to zero

[aquillen]

I'm in NW Indiana. Ideal thing would be if you were close by, just come visit and we play with it. I would suspect the programming is the same - seems unlikely Subaru would want to manage different coding methods for something like this. But you never know.

Like the others that have pioneered on this - I just pull and read the chip first. Make a change and put it on a different - new - chip and try it. That way the original is not altered and can be put back in if need.

If one of the other guys here already has the solution and been there with the JDM - want's to do this for you - have at by all means. But I'll give it a shot if you give it over to me.

[K3LAG]

The STI cluster has a surface mount EEPROM. This makes it a bit more difficult to remove and replace but not impossible. I don't know if it programs the same way or not.

[Dutch602]

I was just digging around to see where to get my odometer reset and came across this article - these guys were recommended earlier in the thread:
https://richmond.com/news/local/crime/owner-of-powhatan-auto-electronics-repair-shop-pleads-guilty-in-federal-odometer-tampering-case/article_4e258051-c815-5bb6-8744-47f0b6ebb314.html

Looks like they were doing a bit more than just helping people making kit cars.