IFS upper balljoint

[BigLeo69]

i have the complete kit and going over some of my suspension parts i noticed that the top of the ball-joint is up and not seated into the balljoint mount, the balljoint mount is orientated as the pic shows on page 42 of the mk3 manual, i installed this about 2 years ago and now i am wondering, is the mount reversable, could it be upside down or does it matter?
the otherside it sets onto the mount flush with the square top nut of the balljoint.
what i remember it screws into the mount right?
the square nut top of the balljoint is above the mount for the balljoint about 3/16 of a inch.
going over all my odds and ends to prepare for go-cart.

let me know
Leo

[rich grsc]

You dont have the balljoint screwed all the way into the upper mount. Some of the mounts and balljoints had thread issues, at least one of mine did. You really need to put some real grunt on it to get it all the way into the mount. One thing is now you wont have trouble holding onto the a-arm mount, and it wont back out.

[BigLeo69]

rich 2 years ago i sort of remember it being an issue and i think it bottomed out on the threads, i think the 2 uppers were maybe 2 different part #'s but i put a caliper on them and it seemed in the correct location.
just as a thought i may have the mount reversed, but i could be wrong.
its on my list of sh!t to do.
suspension check over and lube everything and put all my fluids in.
fire it up go down Lindberg and do a doughnut in front of Marks house, go-cart style..............i may pull a straw trailer so the cops don't pull me over i will tell them its a farm implement:)
thanks for the input
hello F5R tech...............my little buddy Andy there

[BigLeo69]

bump
still a ?

[BigLeo69]

well i put major toque to it and it didn't go in any further than the drivers side

got a damn pic but i can never get them to make an attachment this downloading on this site is not making sense, it always tells me there is an error

[Jim Schenck]

On the older arms the threaded section where the ball joint screws in was not centered in the plate so the ball joint could screw all the way in but still look different side to side. As long as the ball joint is tightened down as far as it can go this has no affect on the geometry, but if the ball joint looks like there are still threads showing then it needs to be screwed in more until it is fully seated to be safe.

[CJBergquist]

I bought my car about 24 months ago and there was a problem with ball joints. Take a look at this photo.

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2433/3639485992_b9fccdf746_z.jpg

This is how the BAD ball joints looked. About a 1/4in space when it starts to bind up. Do not force this as you could ruin the control arm. Call FFR and get the correct ones.

See more IFS photos here. http://www.flickr.com/photos/51103049@N00/sets/72157620702454107/

[BigLeo69]

thats about how mine looked before i removed it

[CJBergquist]

Here is a photo of the box the BAD ball joints came in

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2533/3697141134_7377590a90_z.jpg

[BigLeo69]

so Jim here is the senario: ok all my paperwork, getting it together for my build, and i need a saftey inspection along with a state trooper inspection.
the senario continues if you were the inspector and saw one balljoint different than the other, now it becomes a repair issue how do you prove to these guys that the geometry is the same.
bottom line i need the part "to make a pair" on the balljoints.
it won't pass inspection________________________________________ ______and it doesn't pass mine.
that simple my friend.

Leo



On the older arms the threaded section where the ball joint screws in was not centered in the plate so the ball joint could screw all the way in but still look different side to side. As long as the ball joint is tightened down as far as it can go this has no affect on the geometry, but if the ball joint looks like there are still threads showing then it needs to be screwed in more until it is fully seated to be safe.

and Cris thanks for the response i did save the covers of some of the boxes but i believe only one of each, just for part #'s

[Bob Cowan]

After only a few hundred miles, one of my ball joints looked like this.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a256/bobcowan/BallJoint2small.jpg

The other was fine, and remained threaded in all the way, just like it's supposed to. Notice that the threads go all the way to the shoulder, unlike the picture shown above. Soon after I doscovered this, they both looked like this:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a256/bobcowan/BallJoint3small.jpg

[BigLeo69]

funny thing is these are chrysler parts
same # was used from 57-81 from my pal @ Napa the old suspension guys did a tackweld on it.
MPTech told me now that in the mk4 manual that they say to use blue loctite
i just used silver anti-seize
popped the one that didn't seat all the way and checked it to see if it would thread all the way in from the otherside of the knuckle on the UCA, well it didn't.

not really happy about one being different than the other, balljoints done correctly should be done in pairs.

[rich grsc]

"not really happy about one being different than the other, balljoints done correctly should be done in pairs."

If they had 60,000 miles on them, I would agree, but they are new with no wear on them at all.
As for worrying about the trooper inspection, dont, they didnt even ask me to take mine off the trailer. They wont even look at the suspension, all the look for is properly purchased items.

[BigLeo69]

but if you had all new parts and one didn't work out.
and then you go to a parts store buy a new one which you shouldn't have to, because you already purchased these in a complete kit.
the pairing is right there, they should be a pair
maybe no wear on them but i believe parts on a suspension are important.
found a autozone special for 12 bucks
and a Napa for 39 bucks
which one would you put on ???
if it was your ride
me i was trusting the parts i got in the kit and they need to be the same, astetically and mechanically.
but remember if you worked on a car and one balljoint was bad on one side, do ya just do one side, from my training in wrenching you do the other too. similar to changing a shock, or a leaf spring, a tierod ect...
i remember back in 1999 i put a crate engine in my truck a long block, it said to replace the waterpump, i looked at it and inspected it for wear, installed the old one, the same month i had to change it, she weeped out the hole. murphy's law:)

[CJBergquist]

Leo, have you called FFR and talked to them? They know this "was" a problem and should be able determine if you bought your kit around the time the bad ball joints were going. If so they should be happy to send you replacements. I got my kit in April of 2009 and 3 -4 months later discovered the problem. I called and they sent out new ball joints right away. Give them a chance to fix the problem.

[MPTech]

Leo, I installed mine yesterday. They fit very well.
Here's the part that came with my kit.
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/MPTech/P4100002.jpg

Mine seemed to seat well on both sides.
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/MPTech/P4100007.jpg

I'd get new ones from FFR and return your MOPAR parts! :cool:

[Mustang Man]

If the car is under warranty you only replace the ball joint that was bad, not the one on the other side. The OE wouldn't pay the tech for that. And if you told a car owner they had another issue you found while working on the car that was considered "selling warranty work" and was frowned upon. The dealer I worked at sucked!

Anyway, to stay on topic if getting just one upper balljoint locally means moving forward with the build, I'd do it. But call FFR, this is a known issue with a certain range of kits and they'll make it right...

Mark

[CJBergquist]

MPTech's ball joint is the same one that FFR sent me to replace the "bad" ones included in the initial shipment. Call FFR.

[BigLeo69]

Leo, have you called FFR and talked to them? They know this "was" a problem and should be able determine if you bought your kit around the time the bad ball joints were going. If so they should be happy to send you replacements. I got my kit in April of 2009 and 3 -4 months later discovered the problem. I called and they sent out new ball joints right away. Give them a chance to fix the problem.

got mine in April of 2009 too.
i guess the e-mail i sent last week has never been answered yet.

and calling during the day is hell where i am i am in the core of a huge bldg. with no phone service, and the job i am running i have no time to think about a balljoint till i get home and thats too late to call f5r.
can't even use my laptop on this job its useless no wire/cellular service.
i called Sat. but no answer.

[BigLeo69]

they are using the Afco now.
Afco sells a 20034lf too, which is a low friction/performance level BJ:)
the 20034 is the standard ball joint used by chrysler from 57-81


Leo, I installed mine yesterday. They fit very well.
Here's the part that came with my kit.
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/MPTech/P4100002.jpg

Mine seemed to seat well on both sides.
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/MPTech/P4100007.jpg

I'd get new ones from FFR and return your MOPAR parts! :cool:

[MPTech]

Leo, I heard FFR is not good at responding to email. Call them, MUCH BETTER results.
I was missing the 3/4" nuts for the LCAs I installed this weekend. Called FFR this morning and they are sending them out ASAP. Good Guys!

[BigLeo69]

the e-mail i sent the guy is no longer there......dahhhhhhh

where did Andy go?

its on its way soon i hope.

watch the nuts and bolts Mark some are metric and will trip you up if they get mixed on the big suspension bolts, happened on my rear lowers some real american nuts got in the metric mix.

[MPTech]

Hey Bob, don't know if it matters now or if it's different on the MK4, but my assembly manual says "Mount the upper control arms to the chassis with the solid corner facing the front"


After only a few hundred miles, one of my ball joints looked like this.
http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a256/bobcowan/BallJoint2small.jpg

The other was fine, and remained threaded in all the way, just like it's supposed to. Notice that the threads go all the way to the shoulder, unlike the picture shown above. Soon after I doscovered this, they both looked like this:

http://i13.photobucket.com/albums/a256/bobcowan/BallJoint3small.jpg

[Bob Cowan]

On the MII, the arms are identical. On one side the solid arm is to the front. On the other side it's to the rear.

[MPTech]

I think they are identical on the mk4 too, I flipped one over so they are both to the front. I'm not sure it would really make a difference, but I'm just following the manual.

[BigLeo69]

now i am just waiting for my part.....................

S.O.S.

no its not chipped beef on toast

[BigLeo69]

now i am just waiting for my part.....................

S.O.S.

no its not chipped beef on toast

now i am still waiting for my part..................sigh---------------------i guess i can't finish my front this weekend.