DCs 818r

[D Clary]

Hey there, my name is Dan Clary, I live in northern CA. It is new year so I thought I would start my thread. Chassis is not coming until June 14 but I have been doing stuff and keeping up with the forum since I ordered in August. First and foremost I want to thank those of you who have shared their struggles and made my build so much easier. I have built race cars and hot rods in the past, this will be my first kit car. I think I have reasonable expectations for the kit when it arrives as far as fit and finish and backordered parts. With an R car I have a certain amount of freedom to use or delete factory parts. I started with an 03 wagon donor, in hindsight I could have gone non donor and saved myself a lot of work. I will post some pictures when I get time and talent with the camera and keep everyone current. though most of what I have done has been done before, there may be a few twists.

[Racebrewer]

Hi Dan,

What organization are you going to be racing with?

I have an S kit and my friend has an R on order (delivery scheduled for the end of March).

John

[D Clary]

I auto cross with a local club and do some open track at Sonoma and Thunderhill. Nothing serious. The club autocross has very loose rules as far as modifications. Just # of cylinders and tire type so its pretty low key. Same with open track. I suppose if there were enough 818s for a new challenge series I could get interested.

[drdracing]

Hi Dan, I took delivery of my 818r last sept. It is currently a roller, waiting for my engine so I can do the wiring. I am up in Red Bluff. I autocross with Trinity Touring Club, and run at Thunderhill when I can. Anything I can help with, let me know. Dr. D drd@dm-tech.com

[D Clary]

I live in Healdsburg and run with the Empire Sports Car club. What are you running for an engine. I am starting stock until I get it sorted out or blown up. Same with the trans, though I have put an OBX posi in it. What kind of tires are you going to run?

[drdracing]

I actually graduated from high school in Healdsburg, Rio Lindo Academy up on Fitch Mountain. I am running an 06 2.5 wrx with upgraded turbo and intercooler. I am running 17 inch front and rear to keep tire costs down. Roger Kraus Racing is still researching tire options for me.

[D Clary]

Wow, my kids graduated from there last June.

[D Clary]

Are you planning on running dot slicks or pure race tire, I have been running Hankook Ventus c-17 compound (soft) I get a season and a little more before they slick up. they don't wear out they just loose all grip. They are very reasonably priced through tire rack

[riptide motorsport]

Welcome to the maddnes, enjoy the build!!!

[D Clary]

2500325002
This is what I have for a motor, stock 2.0, new timing belt, water pump, valve cover gaskets and cam seals. I'm not a subie guy yet, but I read the posts on the cooling system. I tapped the holes in the water pump and made new hoses to bypass the heater and to the degass tank. I don't like rubber hoses on race cars so I am trying to lose as many as possible. You might notice the lightened alternator mount.

[longislandwrx]

very cool, what size tap is that?

[D Clary]

The large hose is 3/8 pipe and the small is1/4

[drdracing]

Hey Dan, On my last autocross car(3 liter 914 six) I ran Goodyear slicks one season, and hoosier DOTs after that. I am planning to run slicks on the 818, just not sure which ones yet.

[D Clary]

The hoosier a-6 is faster the Hankook, but drops off quicker, wears out faster and costs 30% more. r-6 is a little better wear but slower. Hankook is still a better buy for a DOT slick. What kind of rules to they have up there? we are pretty light on rules, just # of cylinders, boost and tire wear rating. anything under 140 is a race tire. I run an SVO mustang very modified but only penalty is the boost witch bumps me to 6 cyl class. The 818 will be the same.

[drdracing]

We run SCCA rules and classes. Not sure where that puts the 818. We start testing and tuning runs in Jan. Points start in April. I was hoping to have the 818 in go cart mode by End of Jan. Not looking good.

[Mechie3]

I like those braided lines on the water pump. Your coolant bracket shipped out this evening. It should arrive Saturday.

[D Clary]

Thanks, I can finish making hoses for the cooling system and start on something else

[D Clary]

2507325074
Finished my spindles, new bearings packed with redline grease, cut down my cv joints. They are only hardened were the balls ride in the joint. was able to cut easily on the lathe. A better pic of my alternator bracket. Nascar guy Junior Johnson said a long time ago, "all you need to make a light car is a file and some patience"

[Quiny]

2507325074
Finished my spindles, new bearings packed with redline grease, cut down my cv joints. They are only hardened were the balls ride in the joint. was able to cut easily on the lathe. A better pic of my alternator bracket. Nascar guy Junior Johnson said a long time ago, "all you need to make a light car is a file and some patience"

I didn't have a lathe I had to make due with what I had.2508025081

[D Clary]

Ouch! looks like more work. On the lathe I was able to cut from the inside out. Either way gets it done.

[longislandwrx]

The large hose is 3/8 pipe and the small is1/4

6AN and 4AN respectively?

[D Clary]

no, -10 and -6, I got aluminum fittings and hose from summit. stainless from McMaster carr The stainless hose I had made for something else but it fit this perfectly otherwise I would have used aluminum

[AZPete]

Junior Johnson's comment about a file and patience reminds me that in Mark Donahue's book, "Unfair Advantage", he explained acid-dipping. In the 1950s they dipped the frame in a vat of acid to shed pounds!

[D Clary]

At long last got the call and sent the check woohoo!

[Rasmus]

Nice!

[D Clary]

My kit is supposed to be done on the 14th. UPS guy dropped of the rear wing today, getting closer, been waiting since August

[Brando]

Isn't the wing beautiful looking? I'm in the process of mounting it today & tomorrow. Congrats on the kit, so close. I'm down to race Thunder hill again when your build is done

[D Clary]

They just opened the 5 mile course last week, super fast. The wing is awesome looking, wife wont let me put it on the mantle

[Brando]

wife wont let me put it on the mantle
:D


Thunderhill West looks huge! Willow Springs might loose its slogan, "fastest track in the west"

[D Clary]

Getting bored waiting for my kit, ordered last August seem late.30089

[D Clary]

3119731196Guess what showed up today!

[D Clary]

Quick lookover, powder coat looks very good at this point, no chips but some weld spatter that could have been cleaned. not to much backorder stuff. hope it comes in before I need it. Stewart guy was great no problems at all with transport, no scuffs on the body and all of the corners seem to have a good finish. I am very relieved after hearing and seeing some of the powder coat issues and stewart horror stories. For me they were all non issues. Now all I have is everything else.

[D Clary]

Went on vacation for a week so all work stopped. now trying to regroup and gather parts. Waiting for 11 months for the kit,31910 I bought and lost a lot of parts that I need to re-locate. Work will go fairly quickly mostly because of the guys on this forum, once again thanks for saving me endless aggravation.

[Turboguy]

30089

Are there plans around somewhere for this chassis dolly?


Also, are the holes drilled in the pads to mount a piece that clamps the frame down to the dolly and prevent it from falling off?

[D Clary]

I think AZ Pete has the dolly plans. Most are made of wood but I am not a wood guy. I strapped the chassis to the dolly when we moved it from the truck but I don't think it needs to be attached beyond that.

[AZPete]

Here's my post about the chassis dolly. Read through to the end because there were a few mods.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?11458-Chassis-Dolly

[D Clary]

I've got the front together and rear is mocked up. I think I'll put the engine in tomorrow. I changed the pan and pickup today. Wayne was correct the oem pickup was cracked. They appear to use to much heat when they are brazing it together. The tubing cracks around the overheated area. I ended up shortening the upper control arms a good inch to get 3 degrees of camber with a little adjustment. I am still looking at the length of the lower rear link. It seems to fit best between 20 1/4 and 20 1/2. We'll see when I get everything tight what it takes to square the chassis. I set the bump steer the same as Plavan but I added a little length to the spacer because of the increase caster. With 2 inches travel up and down I have less than .010 with 4 degrees of caster. The spacers are about 2.495.321963219732198

[D Clary]

325263252732528I've had the kit for a month now and progress has been a little slow. finally finished the rear suspension, installed the motor and transaxle. Took al little screwing around but got the clutch plumbed and working32525

[Boog]

I like with you did with the lower trailing arm to knuckle connection. I've been debating if going single sheer would put too much stress on the ear of the knuckle since its cast.
What did you do to keep it centered? Pressed in solid bushing? Stepped spacers on each side?

[D Clary]

I made a 2 piece aluminum bushing pressed in from both sides. I don't see the knuckle breaking, if it is cast it is cast steel. The weak link is the aluminum arms and I have never broken one without an impact. the heims are good for 24k radial load. I tried Waynes arms stock and ebays. I didn't like how any of them fit on the rear bushing. There was always a miss alignment that tweaked the bushing around and it bothered me. Probably doesn't hurt anything ,just bothered me. The other plus is weight, these are very light.

[D Clary]

Finally finished brake plumbing. Going to do the rear firewall then on to wiring.32950329513295232953

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Finally finished brake plumbing. Going to do the rear firewall then on to wiring.32950329513295232953
Nice clean job on the brake lines.
Bob

[Kurk818]

It looks like the valve will be right where the shifter goes. No?

[FFRSpec72]

Finally finished brake plumbing. Going to do the rear firewall then on to wiring.

Are you installing/making a new rear firewall between the engine and gas tank or you just installing the FFR supplied rear firewall ?

[D Clary]

The valve is in front of the shifter, I am making a firewall between the tank and engine .

[D Clary]

Finished seat mounts and transaxle torque strut. I think that's about it for welding on the chassis, but we'll see.336513365233653

[Stickshift84]

Everything is looking great!!! Interesting idea but what makes you think you need a transaxle torque strut?

[D Clary]

Probably don't need it. I saw a video on the forum, I have forgotten which one, you could see a lot of movement from torque at the rear of the transaxle. They do have a strut on the Subaru so why not.

[D Clary]

Finished my coolant plumbing for the awic and radiator. Painted the seat mounts. I tried to get the paint that Rasmus used but they wont sell it in CA. I ended up using ACE appliance paint, don't think it has any uv protection but that shouldn't matter under the seat.336853368633687336883368933690

[Brando]

33690

I had to recess my heat exchanger back closer to the radiator. The front bumper will hit it where you have it now. Might want to do a quick test fit of the front bumper

http://i1369.photobucket.com/albums/ag204/tekbroker/BRANDON-ALIEN/Pictures/818/P5070280_zpsb2f44283.jpg

Hard to see from this, but where it as at here i still had to cutout quite a bit for it.

I also ended up putting 90 degree barbs on the exchanger to keep the hoses running away from the wheels but it looks like you already figured that one out

[D Clary]

What part of the bumper are you talking about? The front wrap around?

[D Clary]

Youre right I need to reposition a little., might be able to trim the nose a little as well. I don't want it sticking below the frame and I would like to get the cap off. It seemed like with the original brackets that it would stick down and the cap would be inaccessible. Back to the drawing board

[Brando]

You're right my cap is inaccessible. I only need to remove 2 mounting screws to shift it enough to remove it, plus removing isn't something I do that often.

[Wayne Presley]

You should have enough room to pull the cap and fill with a funnel.

[JeromeS13]

I need you and Brando to hurry up and finish. I would like to see some datalogs of your intake temps during your track sessions with the AWIC.

[metalmaker12]

I am also trying to get done to do the same. Waiting on my motors machine work. I used 90 degree fittings and tucked the lines through the lower front tray.

337013370233703

[C.Plavan]

Where did you get that aluminum tube for the HE? Does it come with ridges on the ends of the tubes to fit the heater hose over?

[D Clary]

I bought the tubing from mc Master Carr. I welded a bead around the ends to hold the hose on. It kind of looks like you would have to fill the system from the rear to get the air out of the intercooler.

[D Clary]

Fixed33712

[metros]

Great pictures showing your work. I'll be sure to revisit this when I'm ready to plumb the AWIC.

[D Clary]

Finished the exhaust, Just tacked together, will weld up later. Just bought a cheap ebay muffler and down pipe, cutup the doun pipe and presto! It is stainless but very thin.3382333824

[D Clary]

Still procrastinating on the wiring so I finished the drivers foot box. The 'R' kit doesn't have any way to seal off the coolant hoses. A fire suit wont help a steam bath.33930

[D Clary]

finished installing gauges in dash can continue wiring project until I can procrastinate more34737

[FFRSpec72]

finished installing gauges in dash can continue wiring project until I can procrastinate more

Is that a Stack 8100 dash ? Did you look at the SARD panel/adapter for the 8100 ?

[D Clary]

It is a 6003 street dash, no telemetry, does lap times and has almost all the gauges I need. My ecu can do any data that I really need

[Mitch Wright]

Are you using the OEM ECU or a aftermarket unit?

[D Clary]

I am using aftermarket from VCP.

[D Clary]

Finished the filler in front of the dash. I moved the dash back a couple inches so I could reach the switches while buckled in. Also got an Early Christmas present. I told the wife it was from her.3604636047

[Tamra]

That looks nice! Looks like it might be low enough that you could just drive it up the trailer's ramp? AC too... it'll be more equipped than your car.

[D Clary]

I came with 5 foot aluminum ramp extensions, it is a very easy grade into the trailer. If I had bought it new I probably wouldn't have gotten the a/c, but summertime at Thunder Hill It might see some use.

[D Clary]

Still wiring, almost done a little clean up and then a few thing on the motor. I bought some aluminum channel for Osh and ran the wiring harness and battery cable inside so it wouldn't be draped around everything. Wheels came yesterday Thanks Wayne!362493625036251

[FFRSpec72]

Looking great ! Whose fire system did you use ? What type ?

[D Clary]

It is a Safecraft halon from Summit

[Scargo]

I like the way this is coming together.

[Frank818]

Nice wiring configuration! I wish I could do as good as that, but I doubt...

[D Clary]

After six months it's on the ground waiting fo body work.3746137462

[Wayne Presley]

Dan, looks great! You're going to want to go from the bottom of the heat exchanger under the radiator to the pump as it is a centrifugal and will not prime itself. There is room between the radiator support and the splitter.

[D Clary]

I have already filled and bled both systems the way they are.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

After six months it's on the ground waiting fo body work.3746137462
Wow, looks great. How much to do before you go kart?
Have you extend your dash?
Bob

[FFRSpec72]

It is a Safecraft halon from Summit

So I run Halon in my challenge car but I'm going to try the SPA AFFF in this car since its FIA approved, and I love paying more for certification

[D Clary]

I am kind of held up for go cart as my ECU is back at electromotive for repair. Everything else is done as far as running. I still need to work on an air intake and oil separator, but I need to do some body work first. I moved the dash back 3 inches because I could not reach the switches while strapped in. Now that I have it on the ground does anyone have ideas for jacking points? With the cf rockers and "R" ride height a floor jack simply wont fit.

[C.Plavan]

I am kind of held up for go cart as my ECU is back at electromotive for repair. Everything else is done as far as running. I still need to work on an air intake and oil separator, but I need to do some body work first. I moved the dash back 3 inches because I could not reach the switches while strapped in. Now that I have it on the ground does anyone have ideas for jacking points? With the cf rockers and "R" ride height a floor jack simply wont fit.

I use the metal under the drivers legs with the crossbar as a jack point. I marked it just to the inside of the fiberglass on the bottom of the car. It works good, and you don't have to be perfectly on the bar. You will need something like this to get a low profile jack under it. Its what I have been using without any problems.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003ZAGMEA/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Make sure they are the ones without the "1.5" Stop ridge" on the end. You want the flat top ones because the front splitter could hit the Stop Ridge on the other ones.

I also can just jack up the rear by going under the rear diffuser and a little past the flat bottom aluminum piece to a bar under the trans. I don't need any ramps in place for that. You can do it on the front also, but you will need the ramps on and the jack will have to be low to clear the race splitter. I lift the main bar a little back and below of the steering rack. You just have to be really careful with the jack handle when lowering. It need to be horizontal.

[D Clary]

I am now doing body work, It seems like this is where the manual is more useful holding stuff down. Does anybody know why these hole are hear and what they are for? Has anyone cut off this piece of the engine cover so that it can be removed without all of the contortions.3764837649

[wleehendrick]

The hole is there for the S model's roll bar brace.

[Santiago]

Has anyone cut off this piece of the engine cover so that it can be removed without all of the contortions. 37649

Look up Nuisance's build. He did just that and added a pretty slick hinge to the cover as well.

Best,
-j

[Scargo]

I agree, the manual makes for a nice paperweight for holding things down while you try and align pieces.

[D Clary]

Working on the body work I could not make the rear trunk stay curved to fit the body line. I used 3m panel bond and glued a pre-bent 3/8 aluminum rod to the edge of the panel. I also glued nut to it as I am going to screw it in place, I couldn't see any thing under there that I needed to get to in a hurry. Also made a support for the engine cover so the rear body fits pretty good. Still working on the headlights. BTW got my ecm back from electromotive It works and Uwe at their tech department was a great help.3912139122

[FFRSpec72]

Did you wind up cutting the tabs off ( the stupid design around the roll cage down tubes) the deck and attaching them to the side panels ?

[D Clary]

NO I just cut them back so I can get the cover off without a lot of trauma. I didn't want to re engineer a bunch of attaching points I think I figure to have 7 quarter turn fasteners for the engine cover 3 on each side and one in the center to the aluminum.

[Buzz Skyline]

I used 3m panel bond and glued a pre-bent 3/8 aluminum rod to the edge of the panel. 3912139122

What an excellent idea! I've been looking at the flopping panels in back and wondering how I can stiffen them up. This seems like just the ticket.

[D Clary]

Been very busy at work an not making the progress that I want to. I did get my wing mount tacked together.4212842129