ThunderRod evolves

[KGB911]

Dangerous Curves Ahead
I have been fortunate enough to share the joy of building a Factory Five 33 over the last year and a half and due to that exposure I have had the opportunity to create a business of sorts working on these Great Cars.I receive daily pm's and phone calls and visits to the Valley of the Sun and I do my best to help anyone whom asks.Having years of experience in the field still makes building these kits a challenge. I am currently hanging the body and painting Jeff Maxwell's pride and Joy that he has done a great job getting it to the Go Kart stage. Jeff's car has a crate Ford 302 with Edelbrock FI and a Tremec 5 speed.He has powdercoated the chassis Ford engine blue and the body will be painted Corvette Electron Blue.
I thought I would start this thread to share my thoughts on attacking the Challenges of the Build!
Sit back and enjoy Mad Max's "THUNDERROD"

Dr.Ruth
IRS
http://b1670

[Arm7419]

Can't wait

[KGB911]

I received ThunderRod in the Go Kart stage with the body attached with the zip screws placed at the factory.After spending sometime tramming the body and chassis it became apparent that the body would require relocating to get everything to align properly.The chassis is for the most part square with the exception of a few brackets that are welded on with little attention to detail which I will address later.It is very important to create a center-line down the middle and also a datum line down the sides so as to get all the body parts to line up and fit within tolerance. When you start measuring the panals you will find that the measurements are fit for a ruff frame carpenter when finish carpenter specs would have been more appropriate. I have found that with a little patience you can fudge most of the panals to work without excessive modification. That being said, there are panals that are undercut and required compromise. I found this particular body to be diamond a bit and I was forced to move it forward on the pass side so as to get the body to run square with the chassis. If you get the body squared the hood and deck lid will fit with ease and take less time to install,so spending a little time there will pay off in the end.
Dr.Ruth
http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss151/kgb911_photos/33%20Hot%20Rods/Grillmounting007.jpg
http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss151/kgb911_photos/33%20Hot%20Rods/FrontBodypanalmounting003.jpg

[KGB911]

Plumbing
Isn’t strange how one word could have different meanings! Why the B?
Assuming the body was attached inline at the factory would be a poor assumption, they simply screw the body to the chassis for shipping purposes which makes things a little confusing from the start. As discussed in earlier posts the body is by no means perfect and therefore compromise is the key word in fitting the body and its parts, ie, hood and grill etc.
I recommend using a wax pencil and going around the body at key points and measuring and marking for reference points to be used to achieve a true center. I suggest scribing a line on the top of the cowl, the package tray and rear valance. I also recommend that you do the same on the chassis at the rear, the center x by the trans tailshaft and the front steering bulkhead and the very front of the chassis. You will find that these points will be used frequently through the build and will be used to center your engine and trans, your gauges, your fuel tank and even the rearend and last but not least your Cupholders!. At this point it is important to level the car “side to side” with your coilover spring adjusters and or air pressure and make sure and have the car on its wheels or at least supported from the suspension pick up points, DONOT USE JACKSTANDS ON THE CHASSIS.I assumed that this SolidWorks designed chassis was very rigid which it is to some extent but that being said I found it Very important to support the chassis "throughout the body and related panal mounting stages" at the points it will be when driven. So if your suspension is on your car you are good to Go! If not, then you must support the chassis from the rear shock mounts and below the front bulkhead.
Place a long straight length of 1 ½” square tubing or suitable material down the center of the car and clamp it in place and hang Plumb Bobs at points you wish to reference like the front and rear bulkheads. Now it’s time to adjust the body to get all the points inline, a ¼” forward or backward on one side or the other will move the centerline at the ends easily 1”. Time spent doing this simple task will pay off many times during your build! Depending on your particular body and chassis you may need to shim or grind some of the firewall to chassis to body mating surfaces to get everything square.
Take your time and do it RIGHT!
Dr.Ruth
IRS
http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss151/kgb911_photos/33%20Hot%20Rods/Centerthebody004.jpg
http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss151/kgb911_photos/33%20Hot%20Rods/Centerthebody003.jpg
http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss151/kgb911_photos/33%20Hot%20Rods/Centerthebody001.jpg
http://i571.photobucket.com/albums/ss151/kgb911_photos/33%20Hot%20Rods/Centerthebody007.jpg

[KGB911]

Those of you that have followed the other site know there is an issue with the 33's Smile!
The grill shell is 1/2" out of square with the drivers side being the issue above the radiator mounting brackets. This unsightly distortion causes the car and it's owner to frown with it's eyebrow up like a wise guys smirk! I have been repairing these grills for quite a few owners now and have also come up with a fix for the warping hood caused by the hood struts. If you complete these modifications, the hood fitting will go much easier and stay put long after the car is completed. If you don't, every time you look at your beauty from the front you will wish you had fixed that Smile.
Dr.Ruth

The picture of the 2 grills shows the standard and modified units, the side picture of the grill shows the finished weld.

15791580158115821583

[kpeterson]

I'd say you're exemplifying the difference between an assembler and a true builder (kinda like Ron S. does with his Coupe). Great work.

Kerry P

[Mad Max]

I'd say you're exemplifying the difference between an assembler and a true builder (kinda like Ron S. does with his Coupe). Great work.

Kerry P

Kerry, you couldn't have said it better. I knew that my skill level was only an assembler so I found a true builder, Dr. Ruth a craftsman and artisan, to finish my build. The body and paint make the car, that's what catches peoples eye and attention. Dan is doing an incredible job!

Jeff

[KGB911]

I'd say you're exemplifying the difference between an assembler and a true builder (kinda like Ron S. does with his Coupe). Great work.

Kerry P

I this Corvette Kerry? The internet is a wonderful Thing!
Dr. Ruth

[kpeterson]

I this Corvette Kerry? The internet is a wonderful Thing!
Dr. Ruth

Yes Dan, we meet twice in one week.

I think a quick history of the link that I’ve shared with Dan for 35 years (though I didn’t know of his involvement till last week) might be of interest to a few here. I’ll to start a new thread on a topic that too many of us can relate to. “Tell us about the Car you wish you never SOLD”

Kerry P.

[KGB911]

Sorry I have not been keeping up on the ThunderRod posts but I have been very busy getting the body ready for paint and the four months of 100' weather has taken it's toll.
Here are some pics of the Roll pan in progress. The Factory Five Roll Pan leaves alot to be desired!
Dan
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