VERY tough Chassis & Parts Paint

[Xusia]

Hi Everyone,

There have been several discussions on paint where I mentioned a paint I've been using that is IMO as tough as powder coat. I didn't know what it was at the time, but my father-in-law bought a new can so I grabbed some pics before it was illegible. I hope this helps.

One thing to note about this paint is that you really coat it on. It's not like a spray/rattle can where you go lightly and do multiple coats. With this stuff you put it on thick enough to see a glossy shine and let it be. Once it fully hardens (depending on the temp, it can be a while), it's very tough. If you need to put on another coat, you need to scuff off the outer (glossy) layer, so best to get it coated properly the first time.

[Frank818]

Will you be testing this as a replacement of FFR's powder coat? Like in small areas for example, cuz I think yours is already FFR pced.

[Mike N]

Do you need a primer? Any special surface prep? Where did you get the paint? Looks like a great chassis paint and perhaps good for PC touch up? My FFR Roadster has quite a few areas of the powder coat that have damage and needed repair. To this point I have used rust conversion coating and POR15 but this looks like it might be a better match.

[Xusia]

Will you be testing this as a replacement of FFR's powder coat? Like in small areas for example, cuz I think yours is already FFR pced.

I did get the FFR powder coating, but I've modified my frame by strengthening the suspension mounting points (like Chad), and used this paint on those spots.


Do you need a primer? Any special surface prep? Where did you get the paint? Looks like a great chassis paint and perhaps good for PC touch up? My FFR Roadster has quite a few areas of the powder coat that have damage and needed repair. To this point I have used rust conversion coating and POR15 but this looks like it might be a better match.

No primer, no special surface prep, but like all paint imperfections will show through so if it will be visible typical surface prep is advised (i.e. clean the part/area beforehand).

I got it at a place local to my Father-in-law that paints trucks and heavy equipment. I don't know the name of the place, but I could find out if you were thinking of having them mail you some. My suggestion in previous threads was to find a similar place local to you and buy directly from them.

If I had to do it again, I'd probably still get the FFR powdercoating because the frame is not visible (the visual "issues" won't be seen), and it's a good value in terms of protection. That said, if I DIDN'T have FFR powdercoat my frame I would absolutely use this paint. It's designed for things like dump trucks and heavy equipment, so it's tough and holds up well. For me, much easier and cheaper than powder coating because I can do it myself, but would have to take it somewhere for powder coating.

I do believe it would be a much better option than Rustoleum or POR15 for the frame. I used it to touch up my frame, so I'll let you know how that turns out. I had to leave right after painting it, so I haven't yet seen it dry. I'll snap some pics.

[buildit]

http://lusid.naterby.com/mixmaster/docs/tech_sheets/LIXX-TDS.pdf

[68GT500MAN]

Eastwood sells a similar product 2K Ceramic Black Quart Kit that is available in gloss, satin and flat finish. The only problem is that this product in the quart size is NOT available in California (you must buy the rattle spray cans). I have used this product to touch up the frame on my 33 with great results. I have also painted the rear end and other parts too. I really like the results.
Doug

[THE ITALIAN]

There is also "5 star"
you can buy it on ebay, pretty expensive, but will ship to calif

[Scargo]

The paint is a catalyzed urethane. It should be very good/tough. There should be some issue with recoating times, which means you have certain windows for recoating or you have to let it cure and then go at it again. The thing you need to know is that this stuff is really nasty and should not be inhaled. Those that spray it need to use best practices and wear a respirator and use a booth. It can harm you! It has isocyanates in it.

[maczter]

Another option for powder coat touch up, recommended by my powder coater, is a method that liquifies the powder coat, airbrush spray or hand brush on the trouble areas, let dry, then cure with a heat gun.

I have bought it but not tried yet. But it was highly recommended.

https://www.powderbuythepound.com/LIQUID_2_POWDER_-1_PINT/