Fan temp switch location.

[stevem]

Starting the process of hooking up gauges, senders. Put the gauge temp sender in the smaller intake water port on the drivers side of my performer sbf intake. I need to have a hose barb for the heater come out of the larger water port on the passenger side but also need a location for the fan temp switch. I don't have a threaded port in the thermostat housing for it. Was looking at using a standard plumbing T with fittings but thought that might not look the best. I also thought about pulling the top radiator drain but that is a smaller thread. Any thoughts?

The cardiac pack did it to me again! Don't think they'll get much farther but beating the bears like that sure was fun! My pulse has finally stabilized.

[skullandbones]

You might consider a radiator mounted temp sender. I had plenty of holes for senders so I have three intake manifold mounted (computer, gauge, and temp relays). However, I still am thinking the adjustable sender in the radiator would make more sense than the manifold mounted one. I haven't had mine on the road long enough to see if it is optimized. But the adjustable sender would give some latitude on when to activate the fans based on your gauge temp.

Good luck, WEK.

[IEMRacing]

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/flx-32082/overview/

[IEMRacing]

This is what I go with on most of my builds.........

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rfw-ar67/overview/

[CraigS]

I have mine in the smaller driver side port in my Performer RPM intake. And the heater hose coming from the larger port just behind the t-stat. I am using this controller
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/der-16779/overview/

[OVCobra]

If you are using the stock Ford 90° thermostat housing (I am assuming 302 based SBF), there should be a recess in the housing that can easily be drilled and tapped for the switch...worked for me.

Dave

[stevem]

Found some brass fittings I think will do the trick and look O.K. If that doesn't work out I know now what other options are out there.
Thanks for the input and Happy New Year!

[cobraguy13]

O'Reilly sales the Ford 90 degree thermostat housing with a threaded hole for a temp sender in it. I went this route it only costs around $20.00. I later decided to by-pass the thermostatic switch and have the fan run all the time due to the hot Texas weather. Does not seem to affect the cold running of the engine just longer warm up times.

Monti

[Broadwaydan]

Steve,

I had the same problem as you, and also pondered this. I decided to go with the T fitting and was able to get that done. Spent over an hour at Lowe's with the various fittings and trying to minimize what I needed to use, but did require reducers and etc. Overall though, I think it came out pretty well and it looks ok. Does not really stand out when looking at the engine. I put in links to a couple of photos - hope that you can see them

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3Euqcshlukaxroqdfv%3A66%3C%3Do t%3E23%3A9%3D%3A8%3C%3D%3B23%3DXROQDF%3E2%3A%3B499 2794246ot1lsi

http://images2.snapfish.com/232323232%7Ffp83232%3Euqcshlukaxroqdfv3%3C33%3Dot% 3E23%3A9%3D%3A8%3C%3D%3B23%3DXROQDF%3E2%3A%3B498%3 B%3A59246ot1lsi

[stevem]

Dan, that's what I ended up ordering from a heating supply place here in Hayward. Local hardware stores didn't have a 1/2" brass t I needed because I am installing mine on the passenger side port. Could have done it in galvanized but thought that brass would look better and match the switch. Your set up looks fine and I'm sure mine will too. Don't know if having the switch away from coolant flow when the heater valve is closed will effect anything but I'm hoping it is still close enough to the engine to work accurately.

[Broadwaydan]

Dan, that's what I ended up ordering from a heating supply place here in Hayward. Local hardware stores didn't have a 1/2" brass t I needed because I am installing mine on the passenger side port. Could have done it in galvanized but thought that brass would look better and match the switch. Your set up looks fine and I'm sure mine will too. Don't know if having the switch away from coolant flow when the heater valve is closed will effect anything but I'm hoping it is still close enough to the engine to work accurately.

Hey, Steve,

I also considered the risk of the temp accuracy without flow to the heater core. My EFI temp sensor is tied in at the top of the T. So far I have not noticed any issue with it being there, but still have limited time running the engine - probably less than 20 miles plus additional time at idle, etc. But it seems to run and warm up fine, and has gotten warm enough that the fan has kicked on a couple times. If I find any problems in the future I will just go ahead and open up the valve (or remove it) for the heater core and let it cycle coolant all the time. A friend of mine with a Mark IV never put the valve in and he's had no issues.

At any rate, good luck with the fittings when you receive them.

BTW - I am from CA originally - 30 miles north of SF so am a lifelong Niner fan. But I also have many GB friends so always have cheered for the Pack as well. I also graduated from Cal so am a big Rodgers fan - still kills me that the Niners passed on him :-(. Anyway - good luck to both teams on Sunday and if the Niners lose, you will gain one additional Packer fan.

[CraigS]

I found that when forced to use what are basically home plumbing brass fittings, they look a LOT more at home on the engine if you paint them either black or silver.

[DVANSLEEN]

I took a different approach. Since the two bottom radiator hoses have to be coupled together (MK1), I made a coupling out of copper pipe with a threaded bung soldered in it for the fan temp sensor. I figured that if the water coming out of the radiator was too warm then the fan should turn on. It has worked like a charm for 35K miles. Picked up a sensor at NAPA for the correct turn on-turn off temp.

[Avalanche325]

I would not put a temp sensor in the heater line or in a T fitting.

I have a Victor Jr, but basically the same ports. Gauge sender is in the manifold. I tapped my Ford Racing thermostat housing and the fan sensor goes there.