View Full Version : Side Pipes not level
LuckyWinner
12-24-2013, 04:03 PM
I was going to just try to move the engine around a little to make the sidepipes line up even, but engine mounts wont let me move it the way I need. the pin on the engine mount is all the way at the top and I need to move it about a 1/2 inch more. Any ideas?
tkrupinski
12-24-2013, 06:17 PM
I was going to just try to move the engine around a little to make the sidepipes line up even, but engine mounts wont let me move it the way I need. the pin on the engine mount is all the way at the top and I need to move it about a 1/2 inch more. Any ideas?
My 410 was not level and I installed a big washer under the mount to raise the passenger side to level the side pipes.. I would move the engine to the spot that has the best alignment and go from there.
Jeff Kleiner
12-24-2013, 06:25 PM
Dave,
Are you saying that the pipes are approximately 1/2" different side to side? If so that is <1/8" at the motor mounts due to the length of the headers. It takes very little change at the mounts to make a big difference out at the pipes. Loosen both sides and rattle it around in the frame cradles with a big pry bar and I bet you'll get it.
Jeff
LuckyWinner
12-24-2013, 10:53 PM
the pin on the engine mount is already hitting and I cant move the engine the direction I need. Someone said grind off the pin....is that a good idea? I know that I should have the body on, but it is very obvious that they are off.
otto halstead
12-25-2013, 09:15 AM
I had a similar problem with my MK II. I placed a washer between the motor mount and frame mounting to help shift the pipes.
OVCobra
12-25-2013, 11:52 AM
With frame and motor level, is the passenger side OK but the driver side too high? If so, this appears to be a problem that has been reported before. The common/recommended (by FFR) fix is tilt the engine to equalize header collector level and then cut the body openings on both sides, possibly need collector wedge plates as well.
On my build (Mk IV with 347), the angle of the driver side header pipes (straight section before collector) was 7° "shallower" than the passenger side and motor mount pins at the limit. I loosened the header flange at the head so both angles were equal (with engine & frame level) located the driver side collector very well. As such, I machined a 7° wedge plate that is between the head and header...everything fits great. My take is that the driver side header is off, not sure if it is a manufacturing (BBK headers) or a design (FFR)
Lynnhowlyn
12-25-2013, 07:51 PM
On my build (Mk IV with 347), the angle of the driver side header pipes (straight section before collector) was 7° "shallower" than the passenger side and motor mount pins at the limit. I loosened the header flange at the head so both angles were equal (with engine & frame level) located the driver side collector very well. As such, I machined a 7° wedge plate that is between the head and header...everything fits great.
I'd be curious as to how the wedge works out for you - esp. as pertains to exhaust/header leaks. Seems like a wedge placed as described would double the potential for exhaust leaks since there are now likely two exhaust gaskets (one on each side of the wedge) plus the angle of the header attachment bolts could /would get kinda wonky ...
I had a similar situation and we ended up "pie-cutting" the exhaust tubes where they attach to the header flange, bending them a coupla degrees to fit properly, rewelding and re-doing the ceramic coating - and now they fit fine with no increased potential for exhaust leaks.
Inquiring minds ...
Thanks
Lynn
OVCobra
12-26-2013, 08:55 AM
Lynn
Absolutely, there will be leaks, won't know for sure until next spring...very cold and snowy up here in Canada. Your solution addresses the true problem but I just could not bring myself to cut brand new ceramic coated headers...yet! Have to wait and see.
On the other hand, I have yet to have a set of headers that don't leak and with the side exhaust, not sure whether I will hear it anyways.
Dave
CraigS
12-26-2013, 04:21 PM
Another option instead of grinding off the pin would be to enlarge the slot or hole the pin fits into. I know it's obvious, and so you can do some preparation, but I wouldn't worry too much until you install the body.