Geometry set up

[chopthebass]

I just saw Stevem's post about toe-in and thought I'd ask this..

Are there any gadgets available to help set up toe-in/caster/camber? If not I doubt it is something I will tackle myself as it sounds complicated.

[edwardb]

I just saw Stevem's post about toe-in and thought I'd ask this..

Are there any gadgets available to help set up toe-in/caster/camber? If not I doubt it is something I will tackle myself as it sounds complicated.

Lots of choices, but the FasTrax Adjustable 91000 Caster Camber Gauge was mentioned on the other forum alot, so bought one a couple years ago when building my Mk3. They sell an attachment for it that is also used to adjust toe-in, but I found it pretty useless. Returned it and set toe-in with a couple straight edges and a tape measure. You need to have a level work place and some patience to set your own alignment. And it still may make sense to have a pro fine tune it when you're done. But it's quite doable and the FasTrax tool will get things very close. Sold a number of places, but here's the link at Summit: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sps-91000

[68GT500MAN]

I bought one of the FasTrax gauges several years ago when building my roadster. It is very easy to use and helped me understand steering geometry better. I agree about the toe-in being easy to do with a couple of plates and a tape measure.
Doug

[CraigS]

This is what I use for caster/camber
http://www.longacreracing.com/catalog/item.asp?id=130&catid=5
Done like this
http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y91/craig-s/Aligntool_zps8d9e8952.jpg
This is for toein
http://www.longacreracing.com/catalog/item.asp?id=153&catid=5
Note, both of these are about $220.

[chopthebass]

Excellent. Maybe its not a complicated as I though it would be.
I probably would have the experience to know when to make custom tweaks after it is built and running, but this will be great for setting up initially.

[Pirate]

At build school we just used yard sticks and tape measure. The instructors said to get it as close as you can but then take it to a professional shop because they know what they are doing. And if they say they can't do the settings that it says in the manual to take the car somewhere else cause they apparently don't know jack.

Chris

[Avalanche325]

I used a Fastrax for caster and camber. I did the string method for toe in. Very easy.

Also, the Fastrax adjusts for surfaces that are not level. But, leveling is easy with floor tiles a bucket of water and some clear tubing.

[chopthebass]

I used a Fastrax for caster and camber. I did the string method for toe in. Very easy.

Also, the Fastrax adjusts for surfaces that are not level. But, leveling is easy with floor tiles a bucket of water and some clear tubing.

Tubing and water? So it helps having an enema while doing the set up?

[Avalanche325]

Tubing and water? So it helps having an enema while doing the set up?

LOL. I was always taught to keep EVERYTHING in the workshop clean!!!

To get a level garage floor work surface:
Mark on the floor where the tires sit.
Move the car out of the way.
Fill a bucket with water.
Tape one end of the tube to a stick, 2x4, big ruler, etc, with the open end pointing up.
Put the other end in the bucket. Suck the water up into the tube. Let it settle. The water in the tube will now be level with the water in the bucket.
Now, move the stick to each tire position. Find the highest one. That will be the lowest on the stick. This is your target height. Mark that on the stick.
Go to each of the lower positions. Add floor tiles until you get the same level as your high spot.
Pull the car back in and park on the stacks of tiles. It is now level.

[chopthebass]

Ingenious! That is simple, thanks.

[CHOTIS BILL]

Why not just put a level on top the 2x4? I use a length of 2 inch square tubing and a long carpenters level. I would end up spilling the bucket of water. :)

Bill Lomenick

[skullandbones]

Justed wanted to add a comment regarding the tools for the basic alignment. I made up a simple aluminum piece out of flat stock and fabbed a small platform on it at 90 degrees. So I was able to use a welder's angle gauge to do the castor/camber. Then I saw the manual gauge that Summit sells and thought it probably won't be much better than my DIY version. Then I saw the gauge at a friend's shop where he is setting up his race car. I seriously underestimated the quality of that gauge. I believe it will do a much better job than what I have. So that's going to be my next purchase. Sometimes you just have to see the device in person to appreciate it!

Thanks,

WEK.

[CraigS]

There are two really big advantages to doing alignment your self. 1- you learn. 2- you save money and get a better job. The problem w/ FFRs is that they are way different than most street cars so 98% of alignment guys are kind of lost. Even if they understand, when they try to reach those upper arms w/ the car on the rack w/ the tires on, they will get discouraged real fast. So that means they won't spend the time needed to get things as best they can be. If they are willing to spend the time, you need a big credit card. When I am planning a full alignment I always allow myself 3-4 hours. That way I am not in a hurry and don't get frustrated. Also, after you get the car on the road, I can almost guarantee, at some point you will want to try something different. More camber or more caster or a little different toe setting. It's really nice to be able to just do that yourself for free. And that 3-4 hours isn't always needed either. This summer I decided I wanted 1/2 degree more negative camber. I marked the sleeves and made sure to turn the front and rear sleeves the same exact amount. I got the camber, readjusted the toein, didn't even bother to check caster as I knew it hadn't changed and was done in a little over an hour.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I don't need no stinkin' bucket of water and hose:

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj43/jkleiner/RyanW/100_4092.jpg

:p

Jeff