Bias Bar Setup/Adjustment Help

[esff32]

I recently took apart the front end to replace the ball joint dust boots and pulled the calipers, discs, etc... I also replaced the banjo washers on the master cylinders with the Earls stat-o-seals. This seems to have fixed the leak, at least to this point. My issue is, I'm not getting hardly any brake pedal while bleeding the brakes. The pedal just goes to the floor very easily when pumping the brakes. I know there is a bunch of air in the system but it wasn't an issue the first time I bled them.

Secondly, I was wondering if anyone has some info about the bias adjuster bar. I have the brochure that came with the pedals but was wondering if someone has some info regarding how it is assembled. I have also read some other posts but am still confused. When I thread the bar fully either way, I hardly get any stroke on the front master cylinder.

Any help would greatly appreciated. I can take a video of the setup and movement of it if that would help.

Evan

[CHOTIS BILL]

Give this a try.

http://www.wilwood.com/TechTip/TechPedalTip.aspx

Bill Lomenick

[esff32]

Give this a try.

http://www.wilwood.com/TechTip/TechPedalTip.aspx

Bill Lomenick

Thanks for the link. I've looked at the website and the docs that came with the pedal assembly and I am still not sure why the brakes won't bleed properly. The only thing I changed were the washers. My initial thought was maybe the o-ring on the washer was blocking the flow of brake fluid through the master cylinder. I've pulled them off and it doesn't appear to be the case.

My setup does appear to look similar to the incorrect pushrod alignment graphic in figure 4 on the last page. Does anyone have the assembly instructions for this? I for the life of me cannot remember if I put that together or it came assembled. Like I said in the first post, it doesn't seem to matter how far the balance bar is screwed in either direction, the result is still the same. Maybe I will take a video and post it here. Is the threaded bias bar supposed to be able to slide back and forth and have slop in it? Something doesn't seem right.

[CHOTIS BILL]

If a little air got in the line at the master cylinder you will need to push enough fluid though system so that the air exits out the caliper to get rid of it or push fluid from the caliper back through to the master cylinder by pushing the brake pads away from the rotors or use a brake bleeding system that forces fluid from the caliper to the master cylinder. If there isn’t air in it system it may be a problem with the piston in the master cylinder not returning far enough to uncover the hole that lets fluid from the reservoir enter into the piston area. Or it may be a bad master cylinder seal.

My balance bar assembly came put together.

Good luck,

Bill Lomenick

[esff32]

Thanks Bill, I appreciate the help. I took the balance bar assembly apart. I started over and got the rods aligned a little better and rebled the brakes and it seems to be better.

[Arrowhead]

Here are some tips to setting up/bleeding the '33 hot rod brakes (FFR supplied PBR front calipers and standard Mustang rear calipers)

Bleed a front AND rear wheel at the same time. Otherwise, the end that you are not bleeding will pressurize and prevent full pedal travel. I just take two small coffee cans with a little fluid in the bottom, hose from the caliper to the bottom of the can so the hose is submerged, crack both bleeders and pump away.

The front calipers on the '33 are tilted slightly more that than they should be and there is a possibility of having an air pocket at the top. Loosen the bottom bolt and take the top bolt out and shake it back and forth while bleeding. That will help remove air in that pocket.

Not sure what size master cylinders are being supplied now, but most got a 3/4" for front and rear. The rear master is too big for the standard Mustang rear calipers, switching to a 5/8" will help balance out the pressure front to rear. Otherwise, the balance bar has to be jacked way to the front to keep the rear from locking up.

Even switching to a 5/8" rear, I found it needed some front bias. I would setup the bar so the front pushrod is sticking out a bit more than the rear. That way the front master can have more travel than the rear without binding.

Bed the brakes after you get the car on the road. Follow the procedures from the pad manufacturer, but it's a series of panic stops and cool down periods that helps deposit pad material on the rotor. You'll smell the brakes burning in and that's good, that's what you want. It will increase brake effectiveness quite a bit.

Hope this helps.

[esff32]

Thanks Arrowhead, that does help a lot. I managed to get them bled pretty good yesterday. I went for a short joy ride and they seem to work well. I will have to do the bed procedure though. Thanks for your help.