Jester
12-13-2013, 11:30 AM
Ok - I am attaching some notes that I took during the build school - Mk4 roadster - mid 2011 - I had purchased my Mk4 kit before attending the build school (most others attending were in the decision process). Most students do not take notes as they are actively building the car (I only took notes and photo's) so hopefully this helps those who did not take notes. There is no substitute for attending the build school and I highly recommend attending the build school for those considering a build for the first time as it provides the students with the hands on experience of building an entire FFR car and an understanding of what it takes to complete the project. As they say - this project is not for everyone but if you have the desire, patience and some mechanical aptitude (not to mention the budget) - you should be able to tackle this project. I think attitude and patience are key. This is an exciting adventure and the journey (starting with the build school) is as important as the destination.
I have just completed my Mk4 and a few key notes from my experience are that 1) this forum is a great resource with many builder/members ready to assist with almost any problem during the build, and 2) if you plan properly you should be able to build a nice car on a strict budget in a reasonable time frame however there are so many modifications possible that your build budget can climb rapidly - if you are on a strict budget stick to the plan (unless there is a good reason the change it). Every change to the build plan not only costs money but there is time to consider as well. I estimate my build took 300 hours - licenced and titled in gel-coat (no paint) - 4 hours a week every Saturday afternoon for ~18 months and the car was on the road. Add an additional few months for body & paint.
Build Notes:
These are self explanatory and were hand written during the build so please excuse spelling and any errors. These notes may be out of date now as these were taken in 2011
Possible engine source (there are many possibilities and sources):
• Source donor 5L: gt40p from 97-99 explorer
• Ford motorsport catalogue
• Other 3rd party sources i.e. Chatman AZ, Scottsdale
Build school car - Mk4 5.0L specs
• 302 Ford Racing (not Boss)
• Aluminum Heads
• Intake – Ford Motorsport for GT40
• T5Z trans
• Shorty headers – ceramic coated – Ford Motorsport
• J-Pipes or Cats
• Mass air flow sensor (24 lb’s per hr. – Summit Racing
• Tires: Toyo 888R
Special Tools:
• Cleco fasteners (1/8”) – Aircraft Spruce / Jeg’s
• Jack stand covers:- Prothane
• Double lap Flare kit: OTC from Napa
• line cutter: Rigid
• bleeder bottle
• Weather Pak Connectors from Waytek (www.waytekwire.com)
Build parts - Possible upgrades & replacements:
1. Use FFR engine harness
2. bell housing scatter-shield or ballistic blanket
3. For FI: in-tank Fuel Pump (190-250 l/hr from Ford Motor sport part # M-9407-C50, or 90-110 stock mustang pump)
4. Additional reservoir from Wilwood – note I changed these out for CNC’s
5. Pedal Box – clutch side only – need to tap mount hole 3/8” x 16 bolt ~ ½” long
6. Firewall forward from FF Metal
7. Larger Passenger side foot box: FF Metal – not available
8. Clutch cable: replace FFR kit clutch cable with ford motorsport cable for mustang 78-04 (part M-7553-C302)
a. need OEM clutch cable bushing – trimmed as per photo and mount with pedal adjuster on firewall
9. Turn signal – dash indicator light – order additional turn light as shipped with only 1 dash turn light
10. Use red lock-tite on drive shaft bolts
11. Drive shaft safety loop – Summit Racing (part Sum-G7900)
12. Turn signal Options - a. Russ Thompson , b. Flaming River, c. IDIDIT
13. Fuel lines – use Lyle Quick disconnect lines
14. Oil Filter relocation: drill holes before installing engine
15. Fan Shroud Kit from Breeze Automotive
16. Cobra Earl Rad Cap set-up
17. Ground all 3 chassis wiring harnesses (front, middle and rear)
18. Fan Temp switch over-ride: toggle switch & 30 amp relay
19. Front & rear wiring harness: Add 2-3 pin “Weather Pac” connectors to replace the 5 pin connectors on the harness to make body removal easier
20. Battery Relocation kit from FF Metal (recommended) or Breeze as a second choice
21. E brake cables: purchase a set of E brake cables for a mustang with disk brake’s – note these only work with OEM E-brake handle
22. replace the E brake with an OEM e-brake handle etc - easier to use with auto tensioner
a. Under Pressure Research for Billet replacement E-Brake handle
23. Seat Belt fasteners – replace mounting bolts with shoulder bolts
24. FF Metal for an aluminum plate for the top of the rad
25. Proximity sensor keys: from digital guard dog.com
26. Chrome quick jacks & louvers: from Finish Line
27. Hood scoop from Mike Mack
28. E Break from LoCar
29. Fuel cell from Fuel Safe for 88-03 mustang – in tank fuel pump
30. Master cylinder reservoirs with switch for low brake fluid indicator
Do’s
• Order kit with body cut outs
• Body aluminum: check fitment using a sharpie to mark the recommended 3/8” gap for body clearance
• Quick Jacks: Mark location for each piece of the quick jacks before removal (masking tape)
• Door Hinges: close before removing body
• Body: Brace body across cockpit before removing body from frame
• Spindles: may require a slight sand to taper the spindles - fine grit for easy fitment
• Upper control arms: install grease nipples, use outer set of holes, upper mount needs different nut
• Check lower control arms for grooves in bushing for grease
• Front brakes – bleeder to the top
• Rear control arms: grease nipple pointed down
• Be careful with banjo washers – do not over tighten
• Differential pinion angle set to + 2 degrees
• Steering rack – when first installing – do not over tighten bolts
• Need to drill through drivers side 4” tube to mount panhard bracket
• Initially set ride height to 4-4.5” and adjust panhard bar to be horizontal and parallel with differential
• Front alignment: set 2 2x4’s under frame to set ride height, caster (2 deg), camber (1/2”)and toe (toe in 1/16th”)
• Gas Tank strap – larger to the passenger side
• Mount brake reservoirs above the master cylinders
• Bleeding brakes: start farthest away (passenger side rear, driver side rear, front passenger side then drivers side) 3-4 slow pumps, ¼ turn of bleeder until no bubbles – 2 x around car.
• Steering column: align flat column with dash before securing steering wheel will be properly aligned
• Install clutch cable through the mount on the clutch bell housing and install locking clip
• Chassis wiring harnesses – ground all harnesses by cutting ground wire midway in harness and ground to frame
• Always remove the Ground from the Battery first and always connect the power cabled to the battery before connecting the ground.
• Before starting: check for leaks, listen for fuel pump and –go for start!
• purchase a set of E brake cables for a mustang with disk brake’s (fully sheathed and uses different routing – goes over the 4” frame tube not under) - Note Forward end has 3 fingers on the metal sleeve which uses w 13mm wrench to release once installed. Use zip ties to attach cable through original rear mount location> Cable goes over the 4” frame tube, through the frame mount on the passenger side of the Tans tunnel, then clips into the e brake
• replace the E brake with an OEM e-brake - easier to use with auto tensioner
• Roll Bar: mounting start with back leg first
o need to drill roll bar holes – start with back leg first – using 1/8” bit first – can use blind fasteners
• Seat Belt fasteners – replace mounting bolts with shoulder bolts
• Align front signal lights with light fins vertical
• Wiring rear brake lights – make one set male connectors and one set female connectors – same for wiring harness
• Make gas cap hole 1/8” larger all around
• Body installation:
o Need to remove front gas tank strap mount bolts and lower tank 4” to allow mounting of rear body mount bolts
o use vellum on trunk aluminum Bulb Seal to allow easy alignment of body
• when mounting fan support aluminum, elephant ears and door sill plate aluminum to body - use riv-nuts to mount these panels
• Always use knurled riv-nuts
Don’ts
• Do not lift the car by the quick jacks
• Don’t use the FFR clutch cable
• Don’t use E brake cables that came with kit – purchase a set of E brake cables for a mustang with disk brake’s (fully sheathed and uses different routing – goes over the 4” frame tube not under) - Note Forward end has 3 fingers on the metal sleeve which uses w 13mm wrench to release once installed.
• No not leave upper roll bar unfastened – always fasten
• Do not mount the following until after body is mounted: fan support aluminum, elephant ears and door sill plate aluminum– use riv-nuts to mount these panels
• Do not over tighten brass mounting screws when mounting wind shield. Use nail polish as thread lock for these brass screws
I have just completed my Mk4 and a few key notes from my experience are that 1) this forum is a great resource with many builder/members ready to assist with almost any problem during the build, and 2) if you plan properly you should be able to build a nice car on a strict budget in a reasonable time frame however there are so many modifications possible that your build budget can climb rapidly - if you are on a strict budget stick to the plan (unless there is a good reason the change it). Every change to the build plan not only costs money but there is time to consider as well. I estimate my build took 300 hours - licenced and titled in gel-coat (no paint) - 4 hours a week every Saturday afternoon for ~18 months and the car was on the road. Add an additional few months for body & paint.
Build Notes:
These are self explanatory and were hand written during the build so please excuse spelling and any errors. These notes may be out of date now as these were taken in 2011
Possible engine source (there are many possibilities and sources):
• Source donor 5L: gt40p from 97-99 explorer
• Ford motorsport catalogue
• Other 3rd party sources i.e. Chatman AZ, Scottsdale
Build school car - Mk4 5.0L specs
• 302 Ford Racing (not Boss)
• Aluminum Heads
• Intake – Ford Motorsport for GT40
• T5Z trans
• Shorty headers – ceramic coated – Ford Motorsport
• J-Pipes or Cats
• Mass air flow sensor (24 lb’s per hr. – Summit Racing
• Tires: Toyo 888R
Special Tools:
• Cleco fasteners (1/8”) – Aircraft Spruce / Jeg’s
• Jack stand covers:- Prothane
• Double lap Flare kit: OTC from Napa
• line cutter: Rigid
• bleeder bottle
• Weather Pak Connectors from Waytek (www.waytekwire.com)
Build parts - Possible upgrades & replacements:
1. Use FFR engine harness
2. bell housing scatter-shield or ballistic blanket
3. For FI: in-tank Fuel Pump (190-250 l/hr from Ford Motor sport part # M-9407-C50, or 90-110 stock mustang pump)
4. Additional reservoir from Wilwood – note I changed these out for CNC’s
5. Pedal Box – clutch side only – need to tap mount hole 3/8” x 16 bolt ~ ½” long
6. Firewall forward from FF Metal
7. Larger Passenger side foot box: FF Metal – not available
8. Clutch cable: replace FFR kit clutch cable with ford motorsport cable for mustang 78-04 (part M-7553-C302)
a. need OEM clutch cable bushing – trimmed as per photo and mount with pedal adjuster on firewall
9. Turn signal – dash indicator light – order additional turn light as shipped with only 1 dash turn light
10. Use red lock-tite on drive shaft bolts
11. Drive shaft safety loop – Summit Racing (part Sum-G7900)
12. Turn signal Options - a. Russ Thompson , b. Flaming River, c. IDIDIT
13. Fuel lines – use Lyle Quick disconnect lines
14. Oil Filter relocation: drill holes before installing engine
15. Fan Shroud Kit from Breeze Automotive
16. Cobra Earl Rad Cap set-up
17. Ground all 3 chassis wiring harnesses (front, middle and rear)
18. Fan Temp switch over-ride: toggle switch & 30 amp relay
19. Front & rear wiring harness: Add 2-3 pin “Weather Pac” connectors to replace the 5 pin connectors on the harness to make body removal easier
20. Battery Relocation kit from FF Metal (recommended) or Breeze as a second choice
21. E brake cables: purchase a set of E brake cables for a mustang with disk brake’s – note these only work with OEM E-brake handle
22. replace the E brake with an OEM e-brake handle etc - easier to use with auto tensioner
a. Under Pressure Research for Billet replacement E-Brake handle
23. Seat Belt fasteners – replace mounting bolts with shoulder bolts
24. FF Metal for an aluminum plate for the top of the rad
25. Proximity sensor keys: from digital guard dog.com
26. Chrome quick jacks & louvers: from Finish Line
27. Hood scoop from Mike Mack
28. E Break from LoCar
29. Fuel cell from Fuel Safe for 88-03 mustang – in tank fuel pump
30. Master cylinder reservoirs with switch for low brake fluid indicator
Do’s
• Order kit with body cut outs
• Body aluminum: check fitment using a sharpie to mark the recommended 3/8” gap for body clearance
• Quick Jacks: Mark location for each piece of the quick jacks before removal (masking tape)
• Door Hinges: close before removing body
• Body: Brace body across cockpit before removing body from frame
• Spindles: may require a slight sand to taper the spindles - fine grit for easy fitment
• Upper control arms: install grease nipples, use outer set of holes, upper mount needs different nut
• Check lower control arms for grooves in bushing for grease
• Front brakes – bleeder to the top
• Rear control arms: grease nipple pointed down
• Be careful with banjo washers – do not over tighten
• Differential pinion angle set to + 2 degrees
• Steering rack – when first installing – do not over tighten bolts
• Need to drill through drivers side 4” tube to mount panhard bracket
• Initially set ride height to 4-4.5” and adjust panhard bar to be horizontal and parallel with differential
• Front alignment: set 2 2x4’s under frame to set ride height, caster (2 deg), camber (1/2”)and toe (toe in 1/16th”)
• Gas Tank strap – larger to the passenger side
• Mount brake reservoirs above the master cylinders
• Bleeding brakes: start farthest away (passenger side rear, driver side rear, front passenger side then drivers side) 3-4 slow pumps, ¼ turn of bleeder until no bubbles – 2 x around car.
• Steering column: align flat column with dash before securing steering wheel will be properly aligned
• Install clutch cable through the mount on the clutch bell housing and install locking clip
• Chassis wiring harnesses – ground all harnesses by cutting ground wire midway in harness and ground to frame
• Always remove the Ground from the Battery first and always connect the power cabled to the battery before connecting the ground.
• Before starting: check for leaks, listen for fuel pump and –go for start!
• purchase a set of E brake cables for a mustang with disk brake’s (fully sheathed and uses different routing – goes over the 4” frame tube not under) - Note Forward end has 3 fingers on the metal sleeve which uses w 13mm wrench to release once installed. Use zip ties to attach cable through original rear mount location> Cable goes over the 4” frame tube, through the frame mount on the passenger side of the Tans tunnel, then clips into the e brake
• replace the E brake with an OEM e-brake - easier to use with auto tensioner
• Roll Bar: mounting start with back leg first
o need to drill roll bar holes – start with back leg first – using 1/8” bit first – can use blind fasteners
• Seat Belt fasteners – replace mounting bolts with shoulder bolts
• Align front signal lights with light fins vertical
• Wiring rear brake lights – make one set male connectors and one set female connectors – same for wiring harness
• Make gas cap hole 1/8” larger all around
• Body installation:
o Need to remove front gas tank strap mount bolts and lower tank 4” to allow mounting of rear body mount bolts
o use vellum on trunk aluminum Bulb Seal to allow easy alignment of body
• when mounting fan support aluminum, elephant ears and door sill plate aluminum to body - use riv-nuts to mount these panels
• Always use knurled riv-nuts
Don’ts
• Do not lift the car by the quick jacks
• Don’t use the FFR clutch cable
• Don’t use E brake cables that came with kit – purchase a set of E brake cables for a mustang with disk brake’s (fully sheathed and uses different routing – goes over the 4” frame tube not under) - Note Forward end has 3 fingers on the metal sleeve which uses w 13mm wrench to release once installed.
• No not leave upper roll bar unfastened – always fasten
• Do not mount the following until after body is mounted: fan support aluminum, elephant ears and door sill plate aluminum– use riv-nuts to mount these panels
• Do not over tighten brass mounting screws when mounting wind shield. Use nail polish as thread lock for these brass screws