Wheel Studs, Lug nuts, and 1.25 fine threads [Archive]

Rasmus

12-10-2013, 02:16 PM

Subaru is a bit of an odd duck when it comes to it's wheel studs, running M12x1.25 bolts. It's not the M12 it's the 1.25 thread pitch that's weird. Now if you're the type of person that takes the wheels off a car only twice a year that fine thread pitch may never be a problem. But if you track, autocross, own multiple sets of wheel/tires for the same car, or wrench on your car alot (http://i.imgur.com/pyGJ5Yw.jpg), you'll remove and reinstall lug nuts dozens of times a year. And when you run fine pitch threads, the risk of cross threading increases. The finer the thread the easier it is to cross thread.

"I'll be careful". Sure. We all say that. But then there's that one time when you arrive late to an event and you need go all "F1-pitstop" and swap to your race rubber. Or you're doing some light wrenching and your brother-in-law want to help, so he pops the lug in the impact wrench socket, turns the psi up to 135, and goes all NASCAR on your ****. Effectively welding the lug to the stud.

What do to?

http://i.imgur.com/MHGsfwj.jpg
There's the ARP 100-7716 studs with their bull nose. It's a direct swap out. The bull nose helps to align the lug before trying to engage the threads. You'll need to get a set of open ended M12x1.25 lugs.

http://i.imgur.com/2eLko1f.jpg
Personally I like, and run, Muteki's SR48 lugs on my Daily. They're steel. Aluminum lugs are bad ju-ju and titanium is expensive.

But it's still running a 1.25 thread pitch. Would it be possible to find a set of studs we could run in M12x1.5 or even M12x1.75 instead?

http://i.imgur.com/f9DG7By.jpg
ARP makes the 100-7717. Designed for the Mitsubishi Lancer Evo VIII it's produced in M12x1.50.

But the real trick is can you get it installed in Subaru hubs without welding, drilling, or visiting a machine shop? That is, are the knurl diameters and width the same? According to ARP they are:

Knurl Diameter (in.) 0.565 in
Knurl Length (in) 0.270 in
And M12x1.5 lugs are more numerous than 1.25 so you'd have more selection and cost less.

Confirmed:
ARP 100-7717 Mitsubishi M12x1.5 studs easily press into Subaru Hubs. Perfect fit.

Unconfirmed but 98% certain:
ARP 100-7718 Toyota M12x1.5 studs. Knurl length's a little longer than Subaru's at 8.3 mm vs. 6.9 mm. Subaru's hub flange is 10 mm thick, so it should be fine. Plus the 100-7718 are shorter than the 100-7717 studs. Weight savings? Aesthetics?

Rasmus

12-10-2013, 04:37 PM

Also if you don't want to go the expensive route of ARP Wheel studs you could pick up a set of OEM Mitsubishi Wheel studs. Or really cheap out and find a used set Mitsu's.

Frank818

12-10-2013, 06:45 PM

That's very nice to know! I will probably not need them as I don't remove the wheels often, but still I am aware.

There is another solution to that problem you exposed. Just don't ask your brother-in-law to help you! :)

C.Plavan

12-10-2013, 07:52 PM

I bought the ARP M12 1.25 before knowing it was 1.25- I would of rather had the M12 1.5 for sure.

Santiago

12-11-2013, 07:41 AM

Rasmus, any company can make a printing mistake, but given that the specs are coming straight from the manufacturer who machines these parts, the chances should be good that their specs are accurate. If they say the knurls are the same dia. and length, they should be good to go. The only question should be is there a concern over possible different knurl patterns? Honestly though, I don't know if that's generally a concern or not even if they are different. From the pics they look identical, so I doubt it'll be a worry.

In the end I suspect you're just going to have to play to those odds and pick up a set to confirm it yourself. The upshot is that you don't need a full set for 4 hubs, you just need one to test.

If it checks out, you let us all know (so we don't have to gamble). =)

Best,
-j

longislandwrx

12-11-2013, 12:51 PM

Smart idea.

Muteki steel nuts are nice, and you can get them in titanium color... only your hairdresser will know for sure.

Rasmus

12-11-2013, 07:44 PM

Smart idea.

Muteki steel nuts are nice, and you can get them in titanium color... only your hairdresser will know for sure.

If only I could get set of PushUpBra wheels. 225/40P17's look like 275/40P17's on PushUpBra Brand Wheels!

longislandwrx

12-12-2013, 07:11 AM

If only I could get set of PushUpBra wheels. 225/40P17's look like 275/40P17's on PushUpBra Brand Wheels!

AKA Stance? 225s on 10.5" rim? False advertising :D

SixStar

12-12-2013, 02:03 PM

AKA Stance? 225s on 10.5" rim? False advertising :D

I have 225s on a 17x9. They made me sign a waiver before leaving with them. :D

Bob_n_Cincy

12-12-2013, 02:22 PM

AKA Stance? 225s on 10.5" rim? False advertising :D
On my impreza G-stock car I can put any tires on stock size rims.
So I am running 225/45R16 R888 on 6-1/2 rims. I guess you call that a sports bra.

24210

apexanimal

12-12-2013, 04:19 PM

I have 225s on a 17x9. They made me sign a waiver before leaving with them. :D

Ridiculous... 225s on a 9" are fast on the track... Perhaps a bit much on the street but very performance oriented...

Anything more than that is getting crazy though...

rallysteve

12-16-2013, 02:20 PM

I have been using stock studs for about 10 years on my rally Subaru. Only have broken two in that time, both on taking them off. It gets stuck, you just break it off and install a new one. I stick to the factory 75ft.lbs. for my Impreza but check them at every service. Blowing down a logging road at 90 mph is not exactly easy on them, they seem to be fine.

Bill Waters

12-31-2013, 10:21 PM

Rasmus - I realize it hasn't been that long since the OP, but is there any further clarification or resolution regarding the M12x1.5 studs and their applicability? I am nearing the point of ordering the ARP studs for my R and your post brings up a very good point.

Thanks, Bill

Canadian818

12-31-2013, 10:57 PM

I think bill just volunteered to be the first to try! :D

Bill Waters

01-03-2014, 11:08 PM

Possibly so......

Rasmus

01-10-2014, 09:39 PM

Heyya Bill. Sorry I didn't reply sooner.

I put my money where my words are. I purchased the M12x1.5 studs and a set of lugs to go with them. I haven't got around to installing them. Clearly, I assume they'll install without issue.

apexanimal

01-11-2014, 08:47 PM

Torque still the same?

Canadian818

01-12-2014, 07:38 PM

Let us know when you do Rasmus!

Rasmus

01-13-2014, 01:00 PM

I'll shoot this to the top five of my list.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0155.jpg
Working toward getting the M12x1.5 studs installed.

metros

01-13-2014, 10:05 PM

Post when you get them installed and if they needed anything out of the ordinary.

The evo arp studs any cheaper? I noticed arp stud prices vary quite a bit depending on application.

longislandwrx

01-14-2014, 11:02 AM

http://www.ebay.com/itm/ARP-100-7717-Extended-wheel-stud-4-5-packs-20pcs-Kit-Lancer-EVO-VII-IX-/360516871861

pretty good deal with free shipping.

Scargo

01-14-2014, 01:07 PM

To confirm, I have been running the M12x1.50 ARP 100-7717 studs (for the Mitsubishi Lancer Evo) on my STI track car for a full year. Direct swap for the ARP 1.25 studs. Perfect, identical fitting part except for the threads.
Bonus: 1.50 lug nuts are more plentiful with a bigger selection and cheaper, too.
For racing, I run the cheap, extra long, heavy-duty lug nuts from Summit (http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/sum-7540021/overview/), etc., at a buck apiece. Obviously, these lug nuts will not fit all wheels.

Rasmus

01-14-2014, 09:38 PM

Thanks for the confirmation Scargo.

Last I looked at prices was in December 2013:

Muteki sr48 12x1.5 in "Titanium" run $61.54
Muteki sr48 12x1.25 in "Titanium" run $68.16

Muteki sr48 12x1.5 in Black run $52.99
Muteki sr48 12x1.25 in Black run $68.16

The ARP 100-7717 M12x1.5 run $119.88
The ARP 100-7716 M12x1.25 run $129.28

Scargo

01-15-2014, 07:53 AM

That about sums it up. Win-win for those in need of studs. Also, though I've not experienced it, I have 3-4 racing buddies who have broken and irreparably cross-threaded stock STI lugs prior to switching to ARP studs. Admittedly, this was with track use and higher than normal frequency of wheel changes.
I would recommend that all people replace their lugs. Think about it: Many of you are using donor suspension parts from wrecked cars. While you have things apart and/or are refurbishing things, changing out the lugs is easy.

Canadian818

01-15-2014, 07:43 PM

I'd imagine changing the wheel bearings is required when changing the studs?

Rasmus

01-15-2014, 07:53 PM

I'd imagine changing the wheel bearings is required when changing the studs?
Actually, you can change out the studs without removing the hub from the knuckle. That is, you can leave the bearings undisturbed. Just don't try to do it without the axle and axle nut in place. They help hold the bearings onto the race. There's enough room to get the ARP's into the hub with it still on the knuckle.

Bob_n_Cincy

01-15-2014, 08:32 PM

Actually, you can change out the studs without removing the hub from the knuckle. That is, you can leave the bearings undisturbed. Just don't try to do it without the axle and axle nut in place. They help hold the bearings onto the race. There's enough room to get the ARP's into the hub with it still on the knuckle.

Is this possible on the rear hubs?

Rasmus

01-15-2014, 08:45 PM

Is this possible on the rear hubs?
Yes*. ARP (100-7716) 3 inch wheel stud install on WRX Rear Axles (http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1694965)

*small bit of grinding involved.

longislandwrx

01-17-2014, 11:04 AM

nice write-up, never saw that on Nabisco... ty.

Bill Waters

01-26-2014, 09:00 PM

Hi, Rasmus - I pulled the trigger on the M12 X 1.5 lugs, as well. Not sure when They'll be installed. I would be surprised if they don't fit, as well. Will advise if I install before you do.

Thanks for this suggestion, by the way.

Bill

Canadian818

01-26-2014, 11:49 PM

Does anyone make 2" with the bullnose end?

Scargo

01-27-2014, 08:50 AM

Does anyone make 2" with the bullnose end?
First, if you have never used extended ARP studs it might help to explain that I have only 1.9" of usable thread protruding from the thick, aluminum rotor hub* when mounted. After my 1" long racing lug nut is fully threaded on I have 1" left for a wheel hub's center section thickness, or wheel's center section thickness and a spacer. That is with me using an ARP 3" UHL (relative overall length) stud (after I subtracted .1" for the lug nut's conical seat).

Subtract around 1-1/8" from ARP's listed UHL length and then compare that to what you have or want for actual usable threads to mount a wheel on.

I found three shorter 12mm X 1.5 ARP studs that will work. The first one, (for a Toyota Celica GTS (http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail.php?RecordID=78)), that caught my attention has about a 1/16" longer knurl (which shouldn't hurt anything), and it has a 2.34" UHL.
EX.: 2.34"-1.25"=1.09" for wheel and nut. Nuts are usually 5/8" minimum OA length. Accounting for the length of the conical seat angle (60 degrees), might leave you 1/2" for a wheel center section thickness (including any spacer), if you use all of the lug nut's threads. IMHO, that's pretty minimal. (For reference, my Enkei RPF1's are .6" thick)

This one, for a Neon, (http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail.php?RecordID=81) would require drilling the hub's holes a fraction larger. It is 2.45" for the UHL.
Same would apply for the Miata stud (http://arp-bolts.com/kits/ARPkit-detail.php?RecordID=80). 2.75" UHL.

Please do your own math and don't take my word for these numbers. Some wheels use straight shank lug nuts.
*FYI, My aluminum Stoptech floating rotor hub is .28" thick. Obviously, many steel centers are thinner.

Canadian818

01-27-2014, 02:08 PM

Thanks Scargo! I'll wait to order them until I have all my info. No rush now that I know I can do it on the car.

DodgyTim

02-13-2014, 02:26 PM

I tested both my sets of wheels (G2's and Enkei's) on the donor on the weekend.
For both sets the nut had 10 turns from initial engagement to tight, which at 1.25 mm pitch is about 12 mm of bolt length
Given the normal rule of thumb that nut width should be equal or greater than bolt dia, everything is Ok until I factor in the 5mm spacers I need to run. 5mm spacers reduce the nut engagement to just over 0.5 diameter , so it looks like I'll be needing longer studs too.

Another $250 gone once nuts and shipping is included.....:(

Rasmus

02-17-2014, 12:11 AM

To confirm, I have been running theM12x1.50 ARP 100-7717 studs (for the Mitsubishi Lancer Evo) on my STI track car for a full year. Direct swap for the ARP 1.25 studs. Perfect, identical fitting part except for the threads.

Backing up Scargo:

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0295.jpg
M12x1.50 ARP 100-7717 (Mitsubishi Lancer Evo) studs press easily into Subaru hubs. Went in just like an OEM replacement. Knurl pattern exactly the same.

Scargo

02-17-2014, 06:59 AM

When I put mine in I was able to "find" or match up the old grooves with the new knurls. By rotating and slight pressure I made sure they did not create a new home, which I believe would be detrimental. They still went in snugly. How about yours?

Rasmus

02-17-2014, 09:00 AM

Same. Just located the knurls into the old grooves by feel and they pressed right in.

Outwest

02-23-2014, 12:01 AM

Just installed my arp evo studs today, they went in perfectly

cycleguy55

02-23-2014, 05:21 PM

Nissan / Infiniti also uses M12 x 1.25 lugs - had them on our Maxima, and have them on both our G35x and FX35. Yeah, a little tougher to track down nuts, but I switch all the wheels twice each year and have never cross-threaded or stripped a stud or nut.

Bob_n_Cincy

02-23-2014, 09:21 PM

Michael and I did out first Autocross of the year today.
We did 25 events last year and had 4 stud problems.
It happened again today.
Showed up 8:30 AM 35f swapped to R888 even though it was to cold for them.
Tighten lugs to 70 ft-lbs.
Did 12 runs in the morning and worked the course in the afternoon.
Still about 35f.
the went to swap wheels before heading back home.
During removal one of the 20 lug nuts froze on the stud after about 2 revolutions.
This is the fifth or sixth time in the in the past year.
My choice at the point is to drive home on race tires on snap off the stud. SNAP The last time this happened I replaced all studs and lug nuts with OEM.

Has anyone else had problems' like this on Subaru's?
I should also add problem is only on the fronts.

Michael kicked my butt today by 1.5 seconds.
Bob

Scargo

02-23-2014, 10:41 PM

Bob in Cincy: see my post#24. Not uncommon. Get Arps!

Bob_n_Cincy

02-23-2014, 11:43 PM

Bob in Cincy: see my post#24. Not uncommon. Get Arps!
Thanks Scargo
I understand cross threading during installation. I run the on with my fingers. They are not getting cross threaded.

I fully intend to us arp 1.5 on my 2 818.
Looks Like I need a third set.

What lug nuts do you recommend
.Bob

Scargo

02-24-2014, 09:12 AM

Bob_n_Cincy

02-24-2014, 12:31 PM

No insinuation intended that you don't know what you are doing. The stock stuff just can't take the repetitive use and constant re-torquing and stress of the track.
Go wild or mild on lug nuts. I use inexpensive, heavy-duty ones from Summit (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-7540021/overview/). Lots of threads. 65 cents ea. Good quality/no issues.
26464
$13/set? NOTE: these won't fit all wheels. They work on my 949s and my Enkei PF01s.

Go wild with titanium (http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=EM&Product_Code=90304-T1R&Category_Code=L1)@ $26 ea:
26465 Hmmm, where could I spend $506 more wisely?

Hey Scargo,
No insinuation taken. It was late and I was tired if I sounded like that.

I just measured the clearance hole on my OEM wheels at 1.2". A standard socket is no issue with the 13/16 nuts. I will check a impact thick wall socket later.
I'll pass on the titanium:)
Thanks
Bob

longislandwrx

02-25-2014, 01:30 PM

You can get a nice set of titanium nuts for $300 or less, pricey yes. but not $26 each pricey.

Bob_n_Cincy

02-25-2014, 01:55 PM

I just bought 2 cars worth of EVO ARP-100-7717 3" m12x1.50 studs.
Edit: I went with the 1" thick summit SUM-7540021 nuts. (thanks Scargo) Not so pretty but look strong.

If you don't want them to stick out so far. It looks like you can go to the shorter ARP-100-7718 Toyota studs at 2.34 long. The knurl length is 0.325 as opposed to the Subaru 0.270. The hub is .393 thick so I think no issue. This would prevent you from adding spacer.
Bob

Scargo

02-25-2014, 03:12 PM

You can get a nice set of titanium nuts for $300 or less, pricey yes. but not $26 each pricey.
You go first...:rolleyes: Are they sturdy enough for racing or just a pretty, lightweight tuner lug nut?

Rasmus

02-25-2014, 04:21 PM

I just bought 2 cars worth of EVO ARP-100-7717 3" m12x1.50 studs.
If you don't want them to stick out so far. It looks like you can got to the shorter ARP-100-7718 Toyota studs at 2.34 long. The knurl length is 0.325 as opposed to the Subaru 0.270. The hub is .393 thick so I think no issue.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0338.jpg
Confirmed. Good catch BnC. Hub's 10 mm thick. Rear shown.

http://i162.photobucket.com/albums/t278/RasmusHansen/Factory%20Five%20Racing%20818R/IMG_0339.jpg
And there's plenty more room in there for longer knurls. ARP-100-7717 shown in picture. If the ARP-100-7718 Toyota knurls are only 8.3 mm long they'll easily fit inside the Subaru hubs.

longislandwrx

02-26-2014, 07:15 AM

You go first...:rolleyes: Are they sturdy enough for racing or just a pretty, lightweight tuner lug nut?

HA HA no thank you... but who knows down the road.

legit nuts. they come rounded to finger spin or full depth splined (which I like)

20 12x1.5s with driver for $245

26526

I'll stick with the EVO studs... sticker shock when I saw the Toyota price.

DMC7492

03-02-2014, 04:50 PM

Hi Guys, I can safely assume the stud length will need to be adjusted according to the wheel thickness and if a spacer is being used.
That said, if the wheel is spaced out, and the offset of the rim pushes the wheel outwards. How far is the maximum before the bearings are being loaded further out away from the center line of the bearing, rather then just the weight of the car pushing straight down on the center of the bearings?

In the old days when we put wider rims on the front of cars and trucks the outer wheel bearing was now the load carrying bearing and failed after very short duration.

I understand the car is substantially lighter than the original WRX. But I don't want to trash the new bearings being a few hundred bucks with seals!!

For an example, Lets say there was a three foot spacer behind the wheel, now the load on the bearings are a twisting load rather than a linear load directly on the rollers of the bearing. How strong do the bearings need to be to hold that extended moment??

Rasmus

03-02-2014, 11:12 PM

Subaru's front bearing set is the same race and rollers inside and outside. I'm trying to set up mine like a race car so I'm more worried about scrub radius (http://www.racecartuner.com/03/307.html) for my front wheel offsets than looks. I'm looking to get the scrub radius as close to zero as possible but not go negative.

Scargo

03-03-2014, 09:03 AM

Any thoughts as to what that ideal offset would be? I don't like the idea of running spacers. Does it require compromising the tire size or diameter?
Do you know any real world numbers of what RWD cars run and what's considered acceptable if you don't get to 0?

Neat link, BTW. I was fascinated by the idea that you could groove the backing plate of a disc brake pad for improved cooling. Googling that concept came up with "0".

Rasmus

03-03-2014, 10:00 AM

Any thoughts as to what that ideal offset would be?

http://i.imgur.com/pN1UshX.gif
I don't. Jim Schenck might know. I just don't have a chassis in front of me to measure where the imaginary line that runs through the two pivot points on the front suspension intersects the ground. Though there would be a few minor effects from variation in spring perch height and where you set your camber and caster. The biggest would be the diameter of the tires you choose to run, because that effects where "the ground" is.

Scargo

03-03-2014, 10:52 AM

I do have this for the blue R car:

Front:
Motion ratio is .795
Shock angle correction: .906
Roll center: 2.8 inches (with 215/45/17 tires at 4.5 inch ride height)

Rear:
Motion Ratio: .877
Shock angle correction: .985
Roll center: 4.0 inches (with 255/35/18 tires at 4.5 inch ride height)

I don't know if the roll centers are the simplified "Force Based Roll Center" or not (as from the link you recently posted from Racecartuner.com).
Jim S. sent them to me.

metalmaker12

03-05-2014, 06:49 PM

I would say 35-30mm offset front with an 8 inch wide wheel. For the back a 42-32mm max offset with a 9 inch rear wheel, 9.5 if you wanna push it

longislandwrx

03-07-2014, 09:50 AM

has anyone used a percys wheelrite?

they look very cool and would help me try out various fitments

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Percys-01201-Wheelrite,6761.html?utm_medium=CSE&utm_source=CSEGoogle&utm_campaign=CSEGOOGLE&CAWELAID=1268534525&catargetid=1784208710&cadevice=c&cagpspn=pla&gclid=CMz87uvVgL0CFafm7AodSyUAlA

DMC7492

03-07-2014, 05:09 PM

Hi Guys heres a picture to help understand the offset/back spacing and such.
26772

Scargo

03-07-2014, 06:09 PM

Long Island TEA... I mean "WRX", That's a neat toy. ('spensive)

I just use cardboard and the many calculators on the internet. My favorite: http://www.rimsntires.com/specspro.jsp
Another: http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Wheel-Offset-Calculator
I've got more ;)

longislandwrx

03-07-2014, 09:09 PM

yeah I've just used cardboard in the past, but watch some of the youtube videos on that bad boy, pretty powerful.

I found it for much cheaper too.

Bob_n_Cincy

03-10-2014, 04:51 PM

Canadian818

03-10-2014, 07:08 PM

Is that spaced for the rotor?

Bob_n_Cincy

03-10-2014, 08:19 PM

Is that spaced for the rotor?
I left them hanging out the bottom about 1/2" for rotor and hub.
Bob

AJW Performance

03-18-2015, 12:16 PM

We are also now producing these for those that have not already purchased ARP.

http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/ae53/nancarrowa/_MG_0843_zpstqlfh8ts.jpg (http://s957.photobucket.com/user/nancarrowa/media/_MG_0843_zpstqlfh8ts.jpg.html)

Hindsight

03-18-2015, 02:19 PM

I have the fine pitch ARPs and the first time I put the wheel on, just barely brushing the threads of the stud with the wheel, the threads were smashed enough to make the lug very difficult to go on... I actually skipped that stud and will run a die over it before putting a nut back on. Very annoying. Good suggestion of going with a coarser thread.

Mulry

09-03-2015, 04:30 PM

I don't like the idea of running spacers. Does it require compromising the tire size or diameter?

In a slight zombiefying of this thread, I thought I'd add our experience with spacers. We've run spacers on both of our non-FFR racecars for years without any discernable negative effect. A lot of internet racing experts will say that it adds stress on the lugs or elsewhere, and that's probably true. But in 5+ years of endurance racing we've never suffered a failure at the wheel, hub, or tire that we would attribute to having run a spacer. We've run up to a 20mm spacer on the rear of the MR2 and a 20(?) on the front of the e36. We have had wheel failures, but those were exclusively due to getting hit by other cars on track. I love the weight and profile of the Enkei RPF01 wheel, but it does not handle contact very well. YMMV, etc. Cheers.

Scargo

09-03-2015, 05:31 PM

As you say, "YMMV". I don't have the extensive racing experience of some. Some cars have much better wheel bearing designs and some are overbuilt. It is a fact that more stress is exerted on the wheel bearings the farther you space out a wheel, if all other things are equal. How much is something I cannot define. I know many run spacers. In fact I just got some dinky ones for my Subie because the springs were rubbing against the tires.

Buzz Skyline

09-03-2015, 08:29 PM

Why is the knurling missing on the second one from the right?

We are also now producing these for those that have not already purchased ARP.

http://i957.photobucket.com/albums/ae53/nancarrowa/_MG_0843_zpstqlfh8ts.jpg (http://s957.photobucket.com/user/nancarrowa/media/_MG_0843_zpstqlfh8ts.jpg.html)

Bob_n_Cincy

09-03-2015, 10:32 PM

Why is the knurling missing on the second one from the right?
They where looking for a new quality control employee.
Congratulations, you get the job

RetroRacing

09-04-2015, 02:02 PM

We use only the ARP Mitsu Evo m12x1.5 on all of our cars, along with titanium lug nuts with a 17mm drive. Perfect length, can't cross thread and since all the cars are the same, we have tones of spare nuts for enduro (at $130 per set .....)4509645097

Yes, I know... bump steer spacers....getting there!

HCP 65 COUPE

09-04-2015, 02:40 PM

Coming from a machining background and knowing how ARP is producing m12 wheel studs by thread rolling the blanks the Mitsu and Subi studs are probably
produced on the same blanking equipment and then separated into different part #s after thread rolling, meaning they have the same part# before the
thread is rolled. At least that is how I would try to produce those parts, cover 2 applications or many more with as little equipment and tooling overhead
as possible and maximize lot sizes and minimize setups.