Pop-rivet selection: best galvanic compatibility? Best options/sizes/strengths?

[Scargo]

I'm assuming pop-rivets don't come with our kits. I am going to be building an 818R. Assuming a rivet and what it's holding are going to see moisture, I wonder if there are some rivet materials and/or rivet finishes that are better than others for use in our kit cars. I know bare aluminum rivets and steel is not a problem, but If I want more strength or corrosion resistance, what about stainless rivets, zinc-plated steel with steel mandrel, copper-nickel or soft, painted aluminum rivets?
What is the aluminum sheet alloy we are working with? Aluminum sheet gauge?
How thick is the wall of most of the square tubing?

Does riveting on the aluminum panels provide any strength or structural rigidity and should rivets be stronger than just 1/8" aluminum pop-rivets (given a 3" nominal spacing)? I am concerned most about galvanic activity and vibration/loosening issues.

[68GT500MAN]

You should be getting plenty of rivets with your kit (unless something has changed recently). Using the silicone between the frame and aluminum panels will eliminate and vibration/loosening problems. There have been several discussions about using different materials than the silicone over the years, but it has held up for me the past 10 years.
Doug

[Jason Lavigne]

Hi Scargo - We do provide all of the aluminum rivets you'll need. I'm not qualified to get into the chemistry behind it, but my experience is that there are a lot of Factory Fives that have been around for 10 or 15 years or more and haven't had any issues with corrosion around the rivet/aluminum/chassis interface. I suppose if you're going to be driving your car through all types of weather and salty winter roads, then you might look further into it.

Jason @ FFR