Definitive UCA fiment from Jay at FFR Tech

[cmcintyre]

I sent him this picture and he stated that this is the correct orientation for a straight ball joint mount Upper Control Arm. Grease fittings on top, hence ears of inner brackets on top, angling down and short adjustment arm to the rear.

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[RM1SepEx]

The actual geometry of the suspension movement is based on the center of the suspension pivots and center of the ball joint pivot, so if you wish to have the grease fittings down for a "cleaner" look you have EXACTLY the same suspension geometry. all that changes is a slight positional change of the suspension arms. Just make sure that the short arm is on the back on both sides

[C.Plavan]

The real question is since we have different UCA's (I have the same ones)- Does it change the measurement we cut off the welded stud?????? How much do we cut off? Has that changed also? We need to ask, because they are not going to tell us.

[Canadian818]

I didn't think the new style needs to be cut. Hmmm

[D Clary]

I thought that the need for cutting the stud was to keep it from bottoming in the sleeve. If you can get the proper adjustment it probably doesn't need to be cut, unless I am missing something.

[waruaki]

Here is the response I received from Joe at the factory this morning regarding the differences in the UCA's from the ones included with the early beta kits.

"You will only need to make that cut if the control arm perch (where the ball joint threads into) is welded at an angle". "If it is welded flush, no cut is needed". "Use the photo attached as reference, if it matches the picture, no cut needed". "Only the first 30ish kits needed to cut the control arm, and your frame is much higher".
Joe S

[C.Plavan]

Here is the response I received from Joe at the factory this morning regarding the differences in the UCA's from the ones included with the early beta kits.

"You will only need to make that cut if the control arm perch (where the ball joint threads into) is welded at an angle". "If it is welded flush, no cut is needed". "Use the photo attached as reference, if it matches the picture, no cut needed". "Only the first 30ish kits needed to cut the control arm, and your frame is much higher".
Joe S


Good to know. Its a shame we need to ask.

[wleehendrick]

"Only the first 30ish kits needed to cut the control arm, and your frame is much higher".
Joe S

My frame is #52, and I got the angled ball joint mounts which needed trimming, so don't trust that number, people!

[waruaki]

Mine is #72 and I will be looking at them closely later today. At least we know what to look for.

[JeromeS13]

I have #67 and also received the angled version.

[RM1SepEx]

My frame is # 17 and when I got there no one had even discussed it on the forum yet! Documentation and communication isn't one of their strong suits... ;-)

[C.Plavan]

Mine is #44 and they are straight like in the pic.

[wleehendrick]

Just like Forest said...

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=24157&d=1386700252

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