Quiny's 818s build

[Quiny]

Well I figured it was about time to start a build thread. This will be my first FFR car, I have done some minor restores but nothing really cool. I really wanted to build a roadster but my kids saw the 818 and we decided to make it a father and sons project. I only live about 40 minutes from FFR so I made the trip checked out the cars, spoke with Jason and dropped some cash on an 818. Looks like I will not see my kit until Oct 11 2014. I found a 2002 WRX in Wrentham, MA about 10 minutes from my house. It started and ran, was hit hard front left. The guy took $2200.00 and I towed it home. The boys and I began the dismantling, all went pretty well. Toughest part was the big bolts on the rear knuckles but they eventually lost. Here is some pics of the car and the work so far. Turns out my kids are pretty good at stripping a car, not sure if I should be concerned or not.

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[wallace18]

Looks like a great donor. I know you will have fun with your sons working on it. Welcome to the FFR family.

[Quiny]

Thanks, so far we have sold off all the stuff we do not need and made back about $1000.00 I did run into an issue with the front lower control arms. Left side was horribly bent.23577
I was able to find a set of aluminum ones on ebay, they are used but seem pretty good. If anyone needs a left front lower control arm let me know just pay for shipping.
We also put together a shelf just for build parts, looks like a need another.2357823579

[michael everson]

Quiny. Your welcome to come poke around at my shop. I am only a few minutes from you. My car is about 30% done
Mike

[longislandwrx]

Ouch, driver must have lost some fillings when he bent that arm!

[Quiny]

Went to visit Michael at Replicarparts.com in Norton. Turns out he is only about 7 miles away. Great guy with a whole bunch of knowledge and experiance. I couldn't resist buying one of his alternator mounting setups. It's amazing all the parts and fixes that he has come up with. His shop is like candyland.

Cleaned up the rack and pulled the seals, anyone else have an issue with the aluminum endcap? dissassenbly was no problem but when I reinstalled the endcap it snapped. It still holds the snap ring in place just not sure if it will be ok missing 1/4 of the cap. If anyone has an old rack and is willing to part with the endcap i would love to buy it from you, they dont seem to sell just that part. Also still looking for a rear ABS tone ring if anyone has one that they are not using. I did the TVG delete, pretty straight forward. I left the baffels I dont think it will make a difference with my build. I like the idea of getting rid of all the extra stuff that goes along with them. Cleaning, sanding and painting seems endless.

[Quiny]

My kit went from being ready in September to Jan 18th. Picked up my kit but haven't had much time to work on it. My neighbor went with me, I had a hard time getting him out of the showroom, he fell in love with the 33.
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I had both my boys help me lift it out of the truck. It wasn't to bad once you remove all the body panels. I figured I would post some pics of the progress so far.

[Quiny]

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[Quiny]

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[Quiny]

some catch up pics
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Think I will replace the front wheel bearings and do the axles at the same time. Why make that mess twice.

[Quiny]

Made a trip to pick up some of the BO parts at FFR. I installed the front coilovers and also started working on mounting the rack. I started on the cockpit aluminum as well. It took a little trimming and tweaking to get things to line up but not too bad.

In one of my pics it shows the space between the steel frame gussets and were the 2 large pieces of cockpit aluminum meet. Are most people just riviting the aluminum sheet together or are some of you guys adding a spacer and mounting to the frame as well?
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some more pics of progress
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[Mechie3]

There's another sheet metal piece that goes in the foot well corner. Its not in my instructions so I didn't do it yet. Fate066 did it at the same time so he could tuck the tabs underneath. It looks much nicer that way.

[Quiny]

Haven't had much time lately to work on the car. Also waiting on the block and rods from the machine shop. Here is what I have done since last post.

Installed the axles(needed to but one inner joint mine was aftermarket and didn't fit)26959

Installed the column (I like Rori's shortening solution, I always thought once the column started to collapse that it would no longer be strong. Like a detent position that takes a lot of force to start then move easy after that.)

Mounted ABS 269602696126962269632696426965269662696726968

[Quiny]

Is my swaybar upside down? It has good clearance.
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[JeromeS13]

Your swaybar is mounted correctly.

[Quiny]

Well haven't posted to my build thread in a while. Figured I should post something since I am always asking questions. Fantastic advice on this forum it has saved me a lot of time and money I really do appreciate all the help. I haven't been able to do much on the frame but I did finish rebuilding the motor (EJ205) and reseal and install an LSD on the MT5. Like most of you life gets in the way so I only get an hour or 2 here and there. I'm hoping to have some more free time soon. Here are some pics of what I have done to date.

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[tmoretta]

Do you have any recomm. or tricks on setting the pinion to ring gear backlash in the tranny? I have yet to do that after installing the limited slip and am a little intimidated. What is best way to use dial gauge?

[Quiny]

Do you have any recomm. or tricks on setting the pinion to ring gear backlash in the tranny? I have yet to do that after installing the limited slip and am a little intimidated. What is best way to use dial gauge?


I left out the seals and o-rings, followed the procedures then made reference points on the case so I could remove the side bearing retainers (count the turns) and then install the seals and o-rings. you get a much better feel without them in place. In a nutshell you bring in the ringgear side till it stops then bring in the other side and achieve 0 backlash. You then adjust the ring-gear side only for backlash and the otherside for bearing preload. The manual gives a really good starting point based on the notches. Final check is through the drainplug with a dial indicator. I used die to check tooth engagment but since it is the same ring and pinion the only thing that will change is backlash. I wouldn't bother if I did it again.

PM me your e-mail and I will send you a copy of the factory manual

[gwarden]

I would like to see pics of tranny just got my engine mostly put back together but tranny and lsd are next

[Jaime]

Pics are in my build thread (http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?13827-Jaime-s-Western-New-York-Build&p=146081&viewfull=1#post146081).

[Quiny]

tranny pics
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[Quiny]

Well I had some time today (rainy day) and both my boys were home to help so we dropped the engine and transmission in. Pretty uneventful and didn't take very long. It lined up and dropped right in with one kid on each side guiding and me on the hoist. It seems square but I'm concerned about the angle. The whole assembly leans forward a couple of degrees. I can't imagine that is good for the oiling of the trany or engine. Anyone else see this? I'm thinking about adding some washers under the engine mounts to level it. I read somewhere about someone destroying a transmission because it didn't read right on the dipstick. I can definitely see that happening. Please give me your thoughts.
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[JeromeS13]

Just put the correct amount of fluid in and you'll be fine. Now that mine is full, it reads pretty high on the dipstick.

[Quiny]

I will definitely do that, I also cut up some 1/4" plate steel and made spacers for underneath the engine mounts and it corrected 90% of the problem. I would guess that bigger wheels in the back would make this more of an issue. I think you are correct that as long is there is the proper amount of fluid in the trany that it will be OK. I just cant help myself, if it's not straight, level and square I need to fix or question it.

[Quiny]

Made a little more progress, brakes are in and bled, clutch in and bled, cooling system in but not filled yet. I used Mike E.'s front pipes(replicaparts.com) and the FFR supplied pipes for the rear. I figured going with the original mounts there would be a lot of movement in the engine mounts so "flex" would be good. I did assemble the accelerator cable and checked for full throttle. It has enough travel but the pedal feels "rough" I'm going to look into that. I started working on the shifter and I really want to buy Waynes shifter but I'm still recovering from the Boyd tank purchase. Did I say I'm cheap. So far I'm still under 13k for the build but just barley. I also purchased the new center console piece from FFR. I couldn't see using the fiberglass one it just didn't fit well. Here are some current pictures
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[Quiny]

excuse the dates on the pictures, fresh batteries and a lazy photographer.

[wleehendrick]

I really want to buy Waynes shifter but I'm still recovering from the Boyd tank purchase.

Looking good... The Boyd tank and VCP shifter blew my budget, but no regrets! I'll have to think about the new console when I get there; it's not on the parts catalog; you mind sharing how much you paid?

[STiPWRD]

How come you didn't get the solid radiator piping for the rear as well? I'm in the same boat, trying to recover after the Boyd tank and saving for Mike Everson's radiator piping, clutch slave cylinder kit and brake reservoir kit.

[Aero STI]

Nice use of cleco's on the center console piece. How much was it to buy after the fact?

[Quiny]

Nice use of cleco's on the center console piece. How much was it to buy after the fact?

The new center console is 3 pieces. They charged me $50 per piece. So $150 before tax. Well worth it IMOP after trying to make the other piece work. Don't get me wrong I could have made the original piece work but I would have spent days doing it. I think I will use the origin one to reinforce some of the other things that I haven't installed yet. The new setup is not perfect it requires some patience and time to assemble you will also have to trim it if you are more than 6' tall.

[Quiny]

How come you didn't get the solid radiator piping for the rear as well? I'm in the same boat, trying to recover after the Boyd tank and saving for Mike Everson's radiator piping, clutch slave cylinder kit and brake reservoir kit.

I will definitely go with the reservoir kit, there is no way to make the wipers upgrade work without it unless you get really creative. By the way the hard piping was very good, If I wasn't so cheap I would have gone for the engine side as well. I may do it anyway.

[Quiny]

I was able to complete most of the mechanicals, shifter went in OK. It really needs to be shaved quite a bit to fit in the console. On to the electrical install. I was able to shorten almost everything so far it looks like the only thing that I will have to extend is the alternator wiring. I did see that the clockspring will not work with my steering wheel adapter, anyone found one that works? I'm not so much worried about the horn it's the canceling of the turn signal that I don't want to lose. I can wire the horn to the rear washer button on the wiper switch. If all else fails I think I can make my own canceling lever with a short piece of 1-3/4" exhaust pipe and a 1-3/4" split collar. I will post pictures tomorrow. I did also mock up the seat belts (wagon donor) they work pretty well. I didn't do anything fancy just some angle iron bolted to the floor frame to mount the belt ends.

[RM1SepEx]

Check out AZpete and my threads for the steering adapter to get cancelling and horn working... :o

[AZPete]

Quiny, here's what I did to make the horn and cancelling blinkers work. I hope this helps.

Mike Eversons reservoir kit? I've got it and after getting the Factory Five instructions for their new wiper kit, I'm thinking I should revert to the regular hidden reservoirs to install wipers. It looks to me like the remote reservoir will obstruct the wipers but do you know otherwise, per Post #33? I previously trashed my clutch reservoir so I have now ordered another one which means $120 because it only comes with the clutch master. Can I really use a remote reservoir with wipers?

[Quiny]

Mike Eversons reservoir kit? I've got it and after getting the Factory Five instructions for their new wiper kit, I'm thinking I should revert to the regular hidden reservoirs to install wipers. It looks to me like the remote reservoir will obstruct the wipers but do you know otherwise, per Post #33? I previously trashed my clutch reservoir so I have now ordered another one which means $120 because it only comes with the clutch master. Can I really use a remote reservoir with wipers?[/QUOTE]

I think there is enough room for the remote reservoir, just not in the typical position. It would need to be mounted far left or far right.

[JeromeS13]

Quiny, here's what I did to make the horn and cancelling blinkers work. I hope this helps.

Mike Eversons reservoir kit? I've got it and after getting the Factory Five instructions for their new wiper kit, I'm thinking I should revert to the regular hidden reservoirs to install wipers. It looks to me like the remote reservoir will obstruct the wipers but do you know otherwise, per Post #33? I previously trashed my clutch reservoir so I have now ordered another one which means $120 because it only comes with the clutch master. Can I really use a remote reservoir with wipers?

If not, I believe that I still have my reservoir from my clutch master. You can have it if you need it, Pete!

[AZPete]

Jerome, PM sent.

Quiny here's the link I forgot to add previously about the horn and blinkers.

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?12759-FFR-Steering-wheel-installed

[mjazzka]

Well haven't posted to my build thread in a while. Figured I should post something since I am always asking questions. Fantastic advice on this forum it has saved me a lot of time and money I really do appreciate all the help. I haven't been able to do much on the frame but I did finish rebuilding the motor (EJ205) and reseal and install an LSD on the MT5. Like most of you life gets in the way so I only get an hour or 2 here and there. I'm hoping to have some more free time soon. Here are some pics of what I have done to date.

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What is the orange paint you used for your air intake manifold, alternator, etc?

[Quiny]

What is the orange paint you used for your air intake manifold, alternator, etc?

Nothing special, just some high heat paint I found at Advanced Auto.

Here are some current pics. Working on the electrical now, I decided to it harness by harness. First was the engine harness then the in compartment bulkhead wiring. After that the engine bay bulkhead harness. I still have the front harness left. 336263362733628336293363033631

[Quiny]

I completed the wiring, still needs neatening up with some wire loom. I filled all the fluids, cranked the engine with the fuel pump disabled until the oil pressure light went out. Plugged in the fuel pump relay then cycled the key to purge the fuel lines and had a massive fuel leak. One injector top o-ring must have gotten pinched. Luckily I saved all the old gaskets and O-rings. 10 minutes later cycled the key a few more times, no leaks. I was time for that moment. Cranked it and started instantaneously. Sounded great. Ran it ten minutes and checked for leaks. Started it again, ran it 20 minutes temp never went past half. Fans came on and the only code was the downstream 02 sensor (it isn't installed yet). I'm pretty happy with it. This was the first Subaru I ever rebuilt and I was really worried about it. I know 30 minutes of running doesn't mean it's perfect but no knocks or strange noises, I'll take that. I only have the catted downpipe on now but it was surprisingly quiet.

[Hindsight]

Congrats on both the first start and first Subie engine build. Dont down play the latter either. Just being able to rebuild any engine puts you in a pretty exclusive club!

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Great Job Quiny,
I'm right there with you progress wise.
Bob

[Quiny]

Struggling with the ride height, I did manage to get 4.5 inches of clearance but I had to preload the driver side rear till I almost ran out of threads on the coilover. The passenger side rear needed very little as well as the front driver's side. The passenger side front needed quite a bit, not as bad as the driver's side rear but much more than the opposite side. It almost seems like the frame is twisted. Anyone else run into this? It worries me that the spring preload is so different from side to side. Hoping to go-cart this weekend. I think I followed Wayne's instructions correctly about making sure the rear lateral links are parallel. I used a straight piece of flat stock across them with a angle gauge and made sure the inboard reading and the outboard reading where the same at ride height. Adjusting the upper trailing arm really effects that reading. That cheap HF digital angle finder works really well on the front to determine caster.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Struggling with the ride height, I did manage to get 4.5 inches of clearance but I had to preload the driver side rear till I almost ran out of threads on the coilover. The passenger side rear needed very little as well as the front driver's side. The passenger side front needed quite a bit, not as bad as the driver's side rear but much more than the opposite side. It almost seems like the frame is twisted. Anyone else run into this? It worries me that the spring preload is so different from side to side. Hoping to go-cart this weekend. I think I followed Wayne's instructions correctly about making sure the rear lateral links are parallel. I used a straight piece of flat stock across them with a angle gauge and made sure the inboard reading and the outboard reading where the same at ride height. Adjusting the upper trailing arm really effects that reading. That cheap HF digital angle finder works really well on the front to determine caster.

Hi Quiny
I just adjusted my ride height also.
Sound to me you have the corner weight messed up. All you weight is on front right and rear left.
And very little in on left front and rear right. Like lift a box from opposite corners.

Take a look at the 2 rear springs and adjust each spring to the mid-point of where they were at.
The repeat for the front end.

I'll bet you end up still at ride height and even corner weights.
Bob

[Quiny]

Thanks Bob, I will try that. Do you know of anyone that rents corner scales?

[Quiny]

It's go kart day!! No codes starts and runs good but it still has a hesitation. It looks like my problem is the scaling on the MAF sensor. I used a cheap MAF housing and it flows way different from stock. I scaled it roughly from idle to about 4500 rpm in the garage and it got much better but until I can drive it for a stretch it will have to do.


http://youtu.be/rroztZVTXjg

[Quiny]

another

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GUgUB1_2hI4

[Quiny]

Should I start installing the rest of the aluminum before I start mounting body panels?

[Quiny]

Since it runs drives and doesn't leak I figure time to start some of the aluminum panels. I think they would be more difficult with the body on so I'm going to install the ones that don't impact the body install. 10 minutes into that thought and I think I will make some more modifications. There is a big gap on the splash shield below the lower control arm. I don't see any reason not to close it up, I can imagine a lot of road debree getting stuck in or through that big hole. I also added some pics of my intake, I don't like it very much any have some good ideas?
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[Quiny]

This should be step 2 after installing the rubber plugs. Fit and drill these pieces. 34984
They are in front upper triangular splash shields. They would be a piece of cake if the MC, firewall, control arms, column, shifter cables, etc.. were not in the way. It took all night last night with a right angle grinder and a bunch of very short 1/8 bits (Harbor Freight double sided worked well). My arms still hurt from all the awkward positions required. I still didn't get as many rivets as I wanted I may go back later and drill through from the other side. I think I have seen these mounted differently but I think this is the way they were intended to be mounted. Even if you just fit and drill them at the beginning you could rivet them at the end and use self tappers were the rivet gun will not fit. Maybe step 3, was the new step 2 the vroom vroom sound?
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[Boog]

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=34986&d=1414080909Pic 3


I thought that panel was attached to the outside of the square tube. Am I way off here? or is this a tire clearance measure?

[Quiny]

The lower piece goes on the outside(tire side) the top piece goes on the inside. I could be wrong but the front piece will not fit if you install the top triangle on the outside. You would also have to really cut it up to fit.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

here is a picture of eric's sheet metal
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[Boog]

The lower piece goes on the outside(tire side) the top piece goes on the inside. I could be wrong but the front piece will not fit if you install the top triangle on the outside. You would also have to really cut it up to fit.


here is a picture of eric's sheet metal

Ok, I see what you are talking about now. Thanks for the clarification.

[idf]

Thanks Bob, I will try that. Do you know of anyone that rents corner scales?

Saw your comment re corner scales. I am also in MA (Hingham) and have a set I'd be happy to let you use. I'm a few steps behind you in my build. Best to reach me at ifrantz@bidmc.harvard.edu

[Quiny]

Thanks for the scales Ivan, they worked perfectly. I got cross balance to 49.5% and 50.5% with half a tank and me sitting in it. Ride height is correct and all is good, onto the body.

[Quiny]

Figured I would clean up all the leftover wire before I start the body
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[Quiny]

3522435225Started with side sales and rear fiberglass. The manual leaves out the 4" hole saw required to install the taillights also I highly recommend opening the direction light mounting holes with a 3/16 bit if you intend to use the #10 self-forming bolts. I also recommend that if you don't own a belt sander that you get one.

I need to find a lighter sway bar, the 20mm bar I have hits at full lock and pushes the bar into the spring
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[Bob_n_Cincy]

I need to find a lighter sway bar, the 20mm bar I have hits at full lock and pushes the bar into the spring
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Quiny, have you done an alignment yet. The top of you front tire might move out away from the sway bar.
Bob

[Quiny]

I did a "garage alignment" but its not the tire or rim that hits it is the top of the knuckle (the ffr bracket from the knuckle to the upper control arm). If I were to move caster to 0 it would not hit.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I did a "garage alignment" but its not the tire or rim that hits it is the top of the knuckle (the ffr bracket from the knuckle to the upper control arm). If I were to move caster to 0 it would not hit.
I thought if you hade less camber in it, It would move the bracket away from the sway bar.
Bob

[john g]

For the stop light holes, I used the gasket from one of the lights as a template and then cut the hole with a rotozip bit in my dremel. A bit crude, but it worked.

John

[Quiny]

Cutting the shifter shaft worked out well, I have about an inch of clearance now.
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[Frank818]

Quiny, what distance is there between the end of the gearbox support frame and the bumper?
Unfortunately the pic above is angled so I can't judge.

[Quiny]

Quiny, what distance is there between the end of the gearbox support frame and the bumper?
Unfortunately the pic above is angled so I can't judge.

About 3/4" tough to measure since its not flat at that spot in the bumper.
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[Frank818]

Those are nice pix to finally show me how it fits there. Tnx a lot Quiny, much appreciated!

[Quiny]

Trying to watch the Patriots and center the body, I think I'm just distracted by the beating the Pats are giving Denver. I am trying to pull the side sails tighter together and I can't. It's almost like I need to trim the outside mounting plates so they don't hit the fiberglass at the top of the rear wheel wells. I was one of the first to get Mechie's brace and I have it adjusted all the way out and I think it would barely fit. I think I'm missing something. The ratchet strap works really well to pull them together I just don't want to snap any fiberglass. Any suggestions?
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[RM1SepEx]

I need to trim those two "pads" on mine too... It's important to get those distances correct and if you twist the body there too much, you make the seams crooked. I used a piece of 1 x 1 x 1/8 aluminum angle

PS My plan is to bend those tabs a bit to improve fit, think big honking adjustable. Crank it down and apply gravity to get the offending corners down... :D

[Quiny]

I need to trim those two "pads" on mine too... It's important to get those distances correct and if you twist the body there too much, you make the seams crooked. I used a piece of 1 x 1 x 1/8 aluminum angle

PS My plan is to bend those tabs a bit to improve fit, think big honking adjustable. Crank it down and apply gravity to get the offending corners down... :D

that's a great idea, I have just the adjustable for that task.

[Mechie3]

I can't remember if I did or didn't trim those. I do remember them causing me trouble.

[Quiny]

Thanks for the idea this worked really well, made everything much easier.
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[Quiny]

Went to the junkyard today and found a 13mm rear sway bar. I need to clean it up but it looks like it will fit with no clearance issues. I will show pics later. I also installed 1 inch spacers and it brought my wheels almost even with the fenders. After trimming the side sails and refitting I still see some fitment issues. I can get the sides even based on the shock mounts but they seem off looking at the tire clearances.

Can anyone that has moved past this point tell me where this bracket should be? before or after the sail. I have one of each(one side in front and one side behind)any pictures would be appreciated.
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[RM1SepEx]

You are welcome, my friends and I joke about good ideas, we worry about running out of our allocation of a handful every year!

my frame pads don't have a slot... #17

measure the distance from the square tube to the point of the fender, make it even on both sides...

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mine are exactly 8 inches and the bracket almost kisses the fiberglass

[Quiny]

The difference in stabilizer bars is pretty significant
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Here is the 20mm bar installed
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Here is the 13mm bar installed, much more clearance and nothing hits at full lock.
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[Quiny]

Still playing with the fitment of the side sails. To get the gaps to look good and center the body I had to mount the driver side sail a little more forward than the passenger side. The passenger side had the 5/8" space that the manual calls for and the driver's side is about 1/4". All other measurement points equal side to side. I have also found that not only are a good supply of clamps needed but ratchet straps have been very helpful.
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[Quiny]

Picked up an aftermarket transmission mount. It should reduce engine rocking with the added benefit of being 1/4" thinner so it will level out the engine a bit more. It's really heavy, not something you would want to add if your looking to reduce weight.
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Here is a question for someone ahead of me, do these triangular front door cavity block off pieces go with the lip covering the fiberglass or on the inside of the fiberglass. They fit better on the inside but I think it would look better with the fiberglass edge hidden.
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[Quiny]

Continuing with mounting the body. From the windshield back it isn't so bad but I'm having a very hard time with the front. Most of the problem is there are very few mounting points. I have it close but it's more of put it on, take it off, repeat.

[Mechie3]

What's your chassis number? Early chassis didn't have a mount for the rear of the fender near the windshield.

[RM1SepEx]

Picked up an aftermarket transmission mount. It should reduce engine rocking with the added benefit of being 1/4" thinner so it will level out the engine a bit more. It's really heavy, not something you would want to add if your looking to reduce weight.
35739

Here is a question for someone ahead of me, do these triangular front door cavity block off pieces go with the lip covering the fiberglass or on the inside of the fiberglass. They fit better on the inside but I think it would look better with the fiberglass edge hidden.
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cover the fiberglass

[Quiny]

I haven't been able to do much lately but here is my progress to date. I have the rear fiberglass mounted roughly where it will stay, still fighting with the front fenders and nose. I just seen to have to force the fenders more than I think I should to get them to line up. It's too cold to think about any body repairs but I figure I should have everything ready for the spring. I wired and installed the headlights and taillights. I may have to do something different for the plate light, they are not long enough to illuminate the front of the plate using the FFR supplied bracket. Other than that everything worked well, blinker speed, reverse lights, hazards, etc.. Being in Massachusetts I will need a front plate as well, at least for the inspection. Here are some pics to date.
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I did run into an issue with the windshield cowl. The only way for me to get the recommended dimensions is to cut out the area around the master cylinder reservoir. I was planning on getting the wiper kit and I don't want the cutout to show. I was planning on using Mike's relocation kit at some point so maybe I should do it now. Any one know if the cutout will show with the wipers? Any suggestions?
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[Quiny]

My build has slowed a bit since starting the nose and fenders. It has been a little frustrating so I have been switching between the car and other household projects. I did need to add an aluminum angle extension on the nose to allow the fiberglass to mount to something. I also had to trim the hood and fenders a lot where they meet the windshield cowl. I still have some fine tuning to do but it's good enough to start on the doors. I found that my Dremel using the drum sander was the most useful tool for the trimming. It's funny I very rarely used them but I have a bunch of them that I have acquired over the years. They last a long time and remove a lot of fiberglass so be careful. A belt sander did a nice job of trimming the edges to make the hood sit flush to the fenders. For those of you struggling with the nose my recommendation is go slow and remember its easier to remove material than put it back. I also noticed that how the windshield cowl is mounted makes a big difference in how the fenders and hood get trimmed. I set the windscreen according to the manual update and found that I almost needed more finished black area on the cowl, I was right at the very bottom. See pics below.

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[RM1SepEx]

You will need to trim a bunch off the return on the back edge of those fenders for your doors to open... I'm not sure why they leave so much, it needs to be almost all removed esp at the bottom

[wleehendrick]

I found that my Dremel using the drum sander was the most useful tool for the trimming. It's funny I very rarely used them but I have a bunch of them that I have acquired over the years. They last a long time and remove a lot of fiberglass so be careful.

Agreed... good tip (that's what I've used a lot). However, it can end up a bit wavy, since it's such a small diameter it's hard to make a clean straight edge. I clean it up afterwards with hand files.

[AZPete]

Nomination for Quote of the Month:
Quiny: "I'm not sure how my wife will respond to stealing the shower curtain rod for a hood prop, maybe she won't notice." :D :D
(From Everson's engine cover thread)

[Quiny]

Started a new job so progress has been slow. I have fitted all the body panels, very slow going. I ended up with pretty good gaps and I installed the front wheel well aluminum. I was able to get the little triangular piece that is supposed to fit behind the door near the top. It took a lot of trimming. It needs to be fitted with the side sails on and the door striker and bracket removed.
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[Quiny]

Progress is still slow, been traveling a lot. I do manage to get a few hours here and there. I have stripped the body off to make some fiberglass repairs. I'm hoping santa brings me the new style nose. I also did not like that parking switch on top of the steering column so I removed it and patched the hole.4878248783

[Quiny]

Well its been 2 years and yes is still isn't done, but it's not a race. I have been so busy at work and life that the car needed to take the back seat. I have had a little time here and there so I did get the interior done. I have started to reinstall the body but I made everything removable with screws. It would have gone a lot faster to just rivet everything in place. Things went really fast when it was a father son project but both my boys are working on there future at school now. I am working on the rear wheal well sheet metal, I have not seen a lot about it. Any advice? Do the sheet metal tabs go inside or outside the body? It seems like if I make everything fit well the there will be very little room for wheel travel. Any completed pictures or advice would be appreciated.7844678447

[Hindsight]

Wow there's a name I haven't seen in a while. Welcome back. Glad you are sticking with it.

I found it easiest to mount the splash guards with the tabs on the outside. The splash guards are a pain to fit and I had to extend mine to get them to work. I think I have pics in my build thread. I also had to mount them up higher than shown in the build manual to allow for tire and wheel clearance.

[Frank818]

Revived from the dead! Glad you are. I like your S/W btw.

There isn't much room for the wheel to travel. especially if you have 265s and not modified anything around.

Unlike Jeff, I fitted mine with the tabs on the INSIDE of the bumper, like on your pic. But I needed to extend that tab a little bit otherwise the metal was stretching too much and it was causing a huge gap, just like on your pic! So I extend it in a way there would be no stretching on the alu.

I have pix on my build thread, but finding them is another story...

[idf]

Good to see your name again. You've been on my mind and I've meant to get in touch. We never expected to have completed our build before you. I don't know what the right approach is, but we mounted our rear splash guards inside the bumper with rivnuts. We let the splash guard follow the contour of the inner fender liner which means there is a gap between the inner part of the splash guard lip and bumper, but that seems preferable to where the gap is on yours. We used the Zero dB mounting tabs which worked very well. No issues with tires rubbing, but did have to do some trimming of the inner liners to clear suspension. Sorry, no pics handy. You'll have to stop by and take a look.
Ivan

[Quiny]

Hey Ivan great to hear from you. I will need to stop by and see your build. I have been so busy at work that I allowed my kit to build some dust for some time. Things are starting to get back to normal so I have some time now.

[Quiny]

A few updates, I almost have the rear fiberglass completely fitted. It takes great patience but if you fit it, then adjust, and adjust, and adjust, and adjust, eventually it comes together. They key is make nothing permanent until everything is set. You definitely need to handle the nose all by itself after the doors back. I made some changes to some of the sheet metal. It did start and run great after sitting so long. Took the dash out to make fitting all the fiberglass easier.
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[Quiny]

Well still working on the body install. Mounted the whole body at least 3 to 4 times and still not happy with it. New and old style nose (116 serial#). I'm now forcing the engine cover and trunk to fit with scraps of aluminum angle iron I have hanging around. I do not like forcing the engine cover and trunk to fit but my thought is that I force them in place and then glass the back of them that they will hold position. It may be that my pieces have been hanging around so long that that they bent and twisted themselves the wrong way, or they were not close from the start, who knows. I also had a thought about the airflow problem with the inter-cooler (see the last few pics). I did not expect the body to be so much trouble. let me know what you think about my inter-cooler solution. If forcing these pieces is the wrong thing to do please let me know. At this point I think it will still be a couple of years before I'm done, providing I get the time from work. I still enjoy working on the car when I can.
83810

[Quiny]

sorry meant to attach these photos

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[Aero STI]

I think the scoop would detract from all the work you're putting in to get the panel fitment right. The air to water intercooler setup is really effective and not too expensive.

[Frank818]

Ha! I'm not the only one who needed to trim A LOT the rear humps to fit around the rollbar... hard for me to understand why some, like you and me, do it that much and others no at all.

[Quiny]

Blew off the dust, moved the car to my new garage and will start again. Good news is it started right up after 2 years of sitting. Has anyone done anything with this big gap underneath? It looks like the battery tray will fill up with road debris.136533

[Frank818]

Welcome back! :)
Congrats on the miraculously split of a second engine start after 2 years!

'bout that space, yes FFR has an aluminum piece to fill that up. Should have come with your kit, I believe, what number are you?

[michael everson]

Quiny? Did you move? Just had a Daytona painted by a guy in your neighborhood.
Mike

[STiPWRD]

Has anyone done anything with this big gap underneath? It looks like the battery tray will fill up with road debris.
I bent up some left over sheet metal to cover that gap.
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[idf]

Great to hear from you again. I've meant to get in touch to motivate you to finish your car and would be glad to help. I have planned to fill that gap as STiPWRD did. You've motivated me to get it done. You are correct, the gap lets lots of debris into the battery tray and it's a tough area to clean.
Ivan

[idf]

I made a panel to fill the gap today. 136577

[Quiny]

Thanks for the warm welcome back everyone. Hey Ivan that's exactly what I will do this weekend.

[Quiny]

Hey Mike, no I didn't move but I built a new garage with a lift (too old and fat to be on my back anymore). I did see that car and I stopped and spoke with him. Great guy.

[idf]

Thanks for the warm welcome back everyone. Hey Ivan that's exactly what I will do this weekend.

I forgot how much I enjoy lying on my back and drilling holes. I envy your lift.