JeromeS13's 818S

[metalmaker12]

It should happen if you roll backwards to. This is a common issue on the these trannies. Try shift to first and than second than reverse to see if that works, it it does there is a slight syncro issue which binds up the engagement of reverse. Also what kind of tranny fluid did you use, it matters on these finicky trannies. Motul or subie is the only way to go.

[JeromeS13]

It should happen if you roll backwards to. This is a common issue on the these trannies. Try shift to first and than second than reverse to see if that works, it it does there is a slight syncro issue which binds up the engagement of reverse. Also what kind of tranny fluid did you use, it matters on these finicky trannies. Motul or subie is the only way to go.

Yeah, I've tried that and just about everything else. It just doesn't want to go. I used a combination known as "Uncle Scott's Cocktail" on NASIOC. I don't recall the exact mixture, but it's a combination of various fluids.

[metalmaker12]

You have prob tried this but: Get someone else in the car to put in reverse and see if the lever on the transmission moves enough. If it doesn't move enough when someone pulls up it, it might just need an adjustment. Also can you move the lever by hand into reverse, or is it internally jammed up?

[Jaime]

...there is a slight syncro issue which binds up the engagement of reverse.
Reverse has no synchro, just an idler gear with the engagement side of the teeth rounded a bit. I haven't driven a manual Subaru yet, but it totally looks like it would fight engagement if the teeth aren't lined up right. It also looks like it wants to pop out if you don't engage the teeth deep enough.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

There is a reverse check mechanism that prevents you from going from 5th to reverse with outsliding it over to neutral first. The mechanism might be jammed.
Bob

[JeromeS13]

I appreciate all of your input!

I have a friend who used to work for Subaru. He has a transmission torn apart right now and has been looking at possibilities. I'm going to pull the transmission this weekend and he said I could "borrow" whatever parts I needed to make it work. :-D I have awesome friends!

[JeromeS13]

Pulled the transmission so we can fix reverse... :-/

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/JeromeS13/Project%20818/IMG_20140509_222636_zpsh4lt1ggp.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/JeromeS13/media/Project%20818/IMG_20140509_222636_zpsh4lt1ggp.jpg.html)

[Frank818]

Is that a fire extinguisher I see on the right wheel well?

[metalmaker12]

Reverse has no synchro, just an idler gear with the engagement side of the teeth rounded a bit. I haven't driven a manual Subaru yet, but it totally looks like it would fight engagement if the teeth aren't lined up right. It also looks like it wants to pop out if you don't engage the teeth deep enough.

I don't know why I said syncro, (lack of sleep in the last 3 days) but meant the lining up on the idler gear engagement side and it's mechanism, I think I have pics of this somewhere, but he has a subie tech helping so he's all set

You guys will get it, and it is prob a stupid little thing.

[JeromeS13]

Is that a fire extinguisher I see on the right wheel well?

No. That's an oil catch can.


I don't know why I said syncro, (lack of sleep in the last 3 days) but meant the lining up on the idler gear engagement side and it's mechanism, I think I have pics of this somewhere, but he has a subie tech helping so he's all set

You guys will get it, and it is prob a stupid little thing.

Well, turns out I was running too little fluid in the trans. I was going by the marks on the dipstick alone. I put in a just over 2 liters of fluid and it put the left just a hair over the top dot. I ran it for a while, and that's where it remained. I thought that I was good. However, upon disassembly of the transmission, we determined that the middle section of the transmission (that houses 5th gear and the reverse fork) had little/not enough fluid in it and those pieces were essentially running dry. The reverse mechanism and 5th gear overheated. Expensive lesson on my part.

Regardless of what your dipstick says, put 3.5L in your transmission. *I'm a moron... Again...*

[metros]

Ouch - something I could see myself doing.

Thanks for posting your videos. I really enjoyed them and sent them to some friends/family that are following my build.

[metalmaker12]

No. That's an oil catch can.



Well, turns out I was running too little fluid in the trans. I was going by the marks on the dipstick alone. I put in a just over 2 liters of fluid and it put the left just a hair over the top dot. I ran it for a while, and that's where it remained. I thought that I was good. However, upon disassembly of the transmission, we determined that the middle section of the transmission (that houses 5th gear and the reverse fork) had little/not enough fluid in it and those pieces were essentially running dry. The reverse mechanism and 5th gear overheated. Expensive lesson on my part.



Regardless of what your dipstick says, put 3.5L in your transmission. *I'm a moron... Again...*

I have 3-3.5l because I assembled the block off plate and locking nut before I install my LSD, I noticed that 2-2.5l was not reaching the rear section enough when I had it apart and I also asked FFR how much I should use. I should have asked what you were running, sorry man, this got discussed in early threads and it slipped my mind.

[JeromeS13]

Meh. Crap happens. In the end, I think the car will be better for it. It looks like I'll be sourcing a low mileage 2011/2012 WRX transmission to drop in, which already has the stronger gearset (which I was contemplating upgrading to originally).

[AZPete]

This info is just in time for me - THANKS! You should post 3.5 L in Build Tips.

[Brando]

That makes 2 of us. I only had 2l in mine

[JeromeS13]

That makes 2 of us. I only had 2l in mine

Hopefully you realized this in time and didn't overheat your gears...

[JeromeS13]

Well, I got a transmission back in the car. I ended up buying a 2012 WRX transmission from a local guy. It already has the stronger gears in it and has less than 20k miles on it. I got it all put back together.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/JeromeS13/Project%20818/IMG_20140522_191439_zpsp3ofwgtc.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/JeromeS13/media/Project%20818/IMG_20140522_191439_zpsp3ofwgtc.jpg.html)

Tonight, I decided to do a few 3rd gear pulls and see if I could get an idea to where my HP level is. I'll be getting on a dyno on Tuesday and my buddy will be tuning it. So far, this is just a base tune that he sent me and I've been playing around with it a bit. It's only peaking at around 16.5 psi. This dyno is using my estimated weight from the scales and I also had to calculate my speed, as the 08+ transmissions do not have a speed sensor mounted on the transmission like the 07-.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/JeromeS13/Project%20818/818RS_Dyno_zpsb34161f5.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/JeromeS13/media/Project%20818/818RS_Dyno_zpsb34161f5.jpg.html)

[C.Plavan]

Do you happen to know where the oil level shows on the dipstick with 3.5L? I put 3.5L in, then second guessed myself and pumped some out since it was well above the line. It is still a little above line, but I have not run it yet.

[Erik W. Treves]

Put all 3.5L in it....Don't go by the line on the dipstick. Level the car, pour all 3.5L in it and re mark the dipstick!!!

[JeromeS13]

Do you happen to know where the oil level shows on the dipstick with 3.5L? I put 3.5L in, then second guessed myself and pumped some out since it was well above the line. It is still a little above line, but I have not run it yet.

I'm at around 2" above the top dot.

[metalmaker12]

Same here everyone.

[JeromeS13]

Car is going on the dyno in a few hours!

[Frank818]

We want a live feed link! :)

[JeromeS13]

Baseline pull

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/JeromeS13/Project%20818/IMG_20140527_123345_zpsqigenxzh.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/JeromeS13/media/Project%20818/IMG_20140527_123345_zpsqigenxzh.jpg.html)

[Kurk818]

Those are some awesome numbers!

[wallace18]

Wow! that will be hard to keep straight going for it for sure. Awesome #'s I hope you have a tranny that will hold up to them #'s

[JeromeS13]

Final pull

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/JeromeS13/Project%20818/photo_zpszxc6tu2m.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/JeromeS13/media/Project%20818/photo_zpszxc6tu2m.jpg.html)

[Brando]

Wow. That is impressive. Really cool you got that trans fixed so fast too. So your back on the streets after a short intermission.
What do you attribute those numbers to? I'm jealous! Were you running race fuel?

[Rasmus]

That is some hearty torque. Wheel spinner.

[JeromeS13]

Wow! that will be hard to keep straight going for it for sure. Awesome #'s I hope you have a tranny that will hold up to them #'s

Thanks guys! The transmission is from a 2012 WRX, so it already has the stronger gears. Hopefully we can make it last!


Wow. That is impressive. Really cool you got that trans fixed so fast too. So your back on the streets after a short intermission.
What do you attribute those numbers to? I'm jealous! Were you running race fuel?

I attribute good quality parts and experience to my end results. Everything from the short block from LIC Motorsports, my buddies at Snail Performance for the parts, and of course my buddy Travis at Snail Performance for the tune. I need to make a parts list of everything and I'll put it in the first/second post.

The end results were 341 hp and 389 tq @ 20 psi on e85.


http://youtu.be/GEfa73qt3os

[metalmaker12]

Nice man!

[metalmaker12]

Nice man, pretty much the numbers I am going for but reverse once I get my motor back together.

[longislandwrx]

Very nice numbers. That thing is going to pull HARD.

[Frank818]

Now drive. :)

[JeromeS13]

Added current 818 parts list to end of Post 1.

[JeromeS13]

Initial shakedown videos. I think the springs are a little soft. The rear squats like crazy and the front end dives a LOT on heavy braking. I also need to address the air to water intercooler setup. My intake temps were reaching 180-190 towards the end of my sessions... The Federal 595 RS-R's also aren't as sticky as I was hoping. (I peaked at 1.38 G's during left-hand turns and -.93 G's on braking). Aside from those issues, the car ran great and it was a BLAST!!!


http://youtu.be/4taBMt8mEzg

[JeromeS13]

http://youtu.be/By2R9bKBKHM

[JeromeS13]

http://youtu.be/1iw6P7Prcro

[Frank818]

Nice stuff Jerome!

Tell me a little more. Besides crappy cornering grip, did you manage to reach/overshoot other limits? Full suspension travel, tire spin in 3rd gear, lose bolt, broke a part somewhere?

About your grip issues, try out the Yokos Advan Neova AD08Rs.

[metalmaker12]

Yeah front end does tend to dive during heavy braking, and those tires are like mine, not very sticky. Looks like fun, can't wait to get back to that. Get another set of rims with Hoosiers for the track and be done with it.

[Frank818]

What about the springs on the street? Are they still too soft for street driving?

Might want to try out the R's, then.

[JeromeS13]

Nice stuff Jerome!

Tell me a little more. Besides crappy cornering grip, did you manage to reach/overshoot other limits? Full suspension travel, tire spin in 3rd gear, lose bolt, broke a part somewhere?

About your grip issues, try out the Yokos Advan Neova AD08Rs.

I wouldn't call it "crappy" cornering grip. I think 1.3 G's on street tires isn't that bad... I'm scraping on the inside front fenders on heavy braking and bumps (might have to adjust my wheel spacing), even with -2.5 degrees of camber. The rears are rubbing the aluminum on the very top. Nothing broke. My coolant temps were no higher than 196 (thanks to my Ron Davis radiator) and my oil temps reached 248 (no oil cooler). This was a trial run to see where I need to make adjustments. I'll finish this season out making subtle changes, and change tires, aero, etc. next season. As metalmaker pionted out, when I buy tires again, they'll be a dedicated set (more than likely).


Yeah front end does tend to dive during heavy braking, and those tires are like mine, not very sticky. Looks like fun, can't wait to get back to that. Get another set of rims with Hoosiers for the track and be done with it.

[JeromeS13]

What about the springs on the street? Are they still too soft for street driving?

Might want to try out the R's, then.

The springs feel fine on the streets.

[Frank818]

What right height you're at?

I think your tire setup is 235/40/17 and 265/35/18, right?

I am taking notes of what results people get with their setups, to give me an idea once I'll be there myself.

[JeromeS13]

What right height you're at?

I think your tire setup is 235/40/17 and 265/35/18, right?

I am taking notes of what results people get with their setups, to give me an idea once I'll be there myself.

Correct. FFR recommended 4.5" ride height.

[Frank818]

According to you Jerome, if your 215/40/17 weren't BOed, since they are lower than 235/40/17, do you think you would have rubbed on the inside front fenders as well?

[JeromeS13]

According to you Jerome, if your 215/40/17 weren't BOed, since they are lower than 235/40/17, do you think you would have rubbed on the inside front fenders as well?

I'm not sure. It would only be an assumption.

[C.Plavan]

Time for some R spring rates :) The squatting and diving will only get worse with stickier tires.

[JeromeS13]

Time for some R spring rates :) The squatting and diving will only get worse with stickier tires.

Well, here's the thing... The S spring rates are 350/275. The R rates are 300/500. That means, if I switch to R spring rates, the front gets softer.... I'm not sure how I feel about that...

[Frank818]

Would the shocks' stiffness adjustment help when diving? Cuz it's one adjustment, so I believe it's both compression and rebound, making them stiffer may help, maybe.

[Scargo]

Seems like you also need to get the oil temps down. Arizona's not a good place to be marginal. I remember the first time I was in Phoenix and left my tools in the sun...
What are you thinking about doing to the AWIC? I plan on running it.
I'm jealous, of course. Like the blow-off noise. Mine is still on hold; waiting for the STi to get off the lift, onto the track and out of the way.

[C.Plavan]

Well, here's the thing... The S spring rates are 350/275. The R rates are 300/500. That means, if I switch to R spring rates, the front gets softer.... I'm not sure how I feel about that...

Hmmm- I did not realize that. That's strange in my book.

[Frank818]

My book's much less impressive than yours, but looking only at the spring rates, it sounds odd indeed.

Like I mentioned, wouldn't the shocks do anything about that?
Or if you lower your ride height say to 3in, it may dive less.

I am very curious to understand what's going on here and which variables would change that.

[metalmaker12]

S springs are fine for street driving, get rears R's for the track. I am going to get the R rears for track days.

[JeromeS13]

Would the shocks' stiffness adjustment help when diving? Cuz it's one adjustment, so I believe it's both compression and rebound, making them stiffer may help, maybe.

I'm not sure. If/when I change the springs, I'll more than likely turn the shocks to full stiff.


Seems like you also need to get the oil temps down. Arizona's not a good place to be marginal. I remember the first time I was in Phoenix and left my tools in the sun...
What are you thinking about doing to the AWIC? I plan on running it.
I'm jealous, of course. Like the blow-off noise. Mine is still on hold; waiting for the STi to get off the lift, onto the track and out of the way.

Yeah, this was only a test. I wanted to make sure I had sufficient cooling capacity in the water cooling system. I think I'll be trying a water-oil cooler for the oiling system.

For the AWIC, I'm going to upgrade to a higher flow pump (from the Bosch 5 GPM to a Meziere 20 GPM), tilt the intercooler core (to remove any trapped air), and I need to make a block off plate between my radiator and where I have my reservoir mounted. If that doesn't help a good bit, I'll be updating the heat exchanger and intercooler core itself.


My book's much less impressive than yours, but looking only at the spring rates, it sounds odd indeed.

Like I mentioned, wouldn't the shocks do anything about that?
Or if you lower your ride height say to 3in, it may dive less.

I am very curious to understand what's going on here and which variables would change that.

I need to keep the ride height at a comfortable street setting. 4.5" is about as low as I can go.

[Frank818]

Meziere 20 GPM

That's what I currently use on my street car. Very stable, always cool temps. I don't recall reaching more than 95-100F on the streets. Makes my water roll over 7 times per minute (3gal tank).


tilt the intercooler core (to remove any trapped air)

What's the theory in this?

[JeromeS13]

What's the theory in this?

Right now, the core is parallel to the ground and the inlet/outlet are at the center section (vertically) of the core. It's possible that I have air trapped in the top of the core, which makes it less efficient.

[Frank818]

So by tilting the intercooler upwards it would allow the outlet to be the highest point of the intercooler core so no air would be trapped?

[JeromeS13]

So by tilting the intercooler upwards it would allow the outlet to be the highest point of the intercooler core so no air would be trapped?

Correct. What core/heat exchanger are you using? Do you know your actual intake temperatures? If so, what kind of temperature differences are you seeing at peak boost (between the intake temperature and your ambient or water temperatures)?

[Frank818]

Correct. What core/heat exchanger are you using? Do you know your actual intake temperatures? If so, what kind of temperature differences are you seeing at peak boost (between the intake temperature and your ambient or water temperatures)?

I am using a small home-made 2.25" in/out cooler from Schimmel Performance in PA (VW-Porsche). It's about 12x8x3, it's part of my to-do's to check on the dimensions cuz I want to keep trace of it in case I decide to change for something bigger at some point. It's rated at up to 500hp.

Yes I do know SOME temps differences, however it's probably not what you would want.
I remember taking logs of that in the past at different intake temps (sensor 1in from the air filter) vs cooler outlet temps (3-4in from manifold and 3-4in after cooler outlet). I would have to find that excel file back IF you are interested in this but I doubt, see below why. The results of that log showed that my after cooler temps used to be on average just a few degrees Celsius above air filter intake temps, in all street situations.

The reason why I think it's not what you want is that these temps were a mix of boosts. Vacuum and boost numbers, not all at peak boost. And we know peak heats much more.

On my next ride I'll take a closer look after a few seconds at peak boost what readings I get. My guess is add just a couple of degrees to my above figures, cuz I've never seen the temp needle move that much, but then again I don't peak boost for a long time since I'm on the streets.

[JeromeS13]

Gotcha. Yeah, I'm mainly interested in deltas on extended boost runs. At the end of the straight in 4th gear, I'm seeing 59-68 degrees above the system's water temperature.

[Frank818]

You use engine water temp to compare your cooler efficiency?

I'll check on a 4th gear boost with the longest rpm I can afford on the street loll. But I can probably do it once, then wait for another stretch or moment without cops and cars around, which lowers temps.
Mixed boosts last w-e I got 10-15F above air filter temps.

EDIT: My air filter temps were about 80-85F last w-e. Engine water was about 170-180.
EDIT2: As an example, when I was using a supercharger without a cooler of some sort, my intake temps (just before the manifold) were about 110-160F. Not stable very much. Now with a turbo and cooler, it dropped under 100F.

[JeromeS13]

You use engine water temp to compare your cooler efficiency?

I'll check on a 4th gear boost with the longest rpm I can afford on the street loll. But I can probably do it once, then wait for another stretch or moment without cops and cars around, which lowers temps.
Mixed boosts last w-e I got 10-15F above air filter temps.

EDIT: My air filter temps were about 80-85F last w-e. Engine water was about 170-180.
EDIT2: As an example, when I was using a supercharger without a cooler of some sort, my intake temps (just before the manifold) were about 110-160F. Not stable very much. Now with a turbo and cooler, it dropped under 100F.

No engine water temperature. I use the AWIC system's water temperature to compare intercooler efficiency.

[Frank818]

Gotcha. Makes sense! Loll
I don't have a sensor there, however.

[Brando]

Well, here's the thing... The S spring rates are 350/275. The R rates are 300/500. That means, if I switch to R spring rates, the front gets softer.... I'm not sure how I feel about that...

I also am having major rubbing issues up front with hard cornering or braking. R ride height and softer springs isn't helping. My only hope is removing the 3mm spacers, set shocks to stiff and tighten springs. I still think after I do all that I am going to rub :(

[Frank818]

Brando, you're running Hoosiers R6s 225/40-17 Front?

[Brando]

Yes

[JeromeS13]

Maybe I'll try running 400/500 springs...

[metalmaker12]

My front tires are not rubbing but the noise does dive slightly under really hard braking. It still dives much less than any performance car I have driven so it's not really that big an issue. My noise rubs the ground under extreme cornering, which in my autocross was much more sharpe tight turns compared to what Jerome was running through. My ride height is 4.25 all around, so the 4.5 would prob fix the rubbing along with a front sway bar. I also think with the R rear spring rate the car would not dive as much either. I also pulled around a 1.4G before it started to loose grip with Yokohama S Drives. I wish it kept running because it would have been an awesome video and great feedback.

Front tires: 215/40/17
Rears 255/35/18

I agree 400f and 500r spring rate for track driving maybe ideal.

[Frank818]

Just for comparison Metal, what performance cars have your driven?
And I believe you meant "nose" and not "noise" loll

[metalmaker12]

Subarus, Lotus Elise's , Mustangs, Porsches(911, cayman, 944), S2000, Gsr's, 240sx, 350z, mr2, vettes, Vw's( gti, corrado,R32), GTR etc. I mean a lot of things but autocorrect on my phone hates me. I have many friends with many types of cars and I have worked on and tested many of these cars that way also. Plus track days with friends and my own rides in the past. I have own many different cars as well. The 818 is a beast and we will get it to trim out just right and be near perfection.

[longislandwrx]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4taBMt8mEzg&feature=player_embedded#t=486

VTEC JUST KICKED IN YO!

[JeromeS13]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4taBMt8mEzg&feature=player_embedded#t=486

VTEC JUST KICKED IN YO!

Haha. Yeah. The guy in the GT500 was a moving road block. Supposedly had "15 years of track experience"... He was maybe going 40% during the course and drag racing everyone (with much lower horsepower) on the straights. He got kicked down to DE2 after this. I realize that my dive-bomb was a little sketchy, but these guys are preparing to go to TT and/or race group. I knew Aaron (white Miata) saw me. Here's another view from the white Integra (go to 6:30 to see the pass):


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r2J_qdrhlHc&t=6m30s

[Mechie3]

Haha! That was awesome. I hate the "omg I'm so faaaast oh crap a curve better go 10mph crew" on highways. Imagine its worse on track.

[longislandwrx]

We did an HPDE last summer and there was a heavily modified S2000 who they finally (to everyone's relief) black flagged for driving too slow. It was comical.

@7:40 in that new video you really get a sense of the 818s power!

[metalmaker12]

Love it!!!

[Frank818]

The Federal 595 RS-R's also aren't as sticky as I was hoping. (I peaked at 1.38 G's during left-hand turns and -.93 G's on braking).

Jerome, I would just want to point something out about the amazing 1.38G lateral. (what was FFR's R again? 1.5 I think)
According to Top Gear, if you flip to page 14, it will say the last (for ever maybe) naturally aspirated mid-engined Ferrari V8 peaks at 1.33G lateral.

http://www.topgear.com/uk/photos/ferrari-458-speciale-elba-drive-2014-05-27

So I say 1.38 is utterly demonic. :)

[Canadian818]

Jerome, I would just want to point something out about the amazing 1.38G lateral. (what was FFR's R again? 1.5 I think)
According to Top Gear, if you flip to page 14, it will say the last (for ever maybe) naturally aspirated mid-engined Ferrari V8 peaks at 1.33G lateral.

http://www.topgear.com/uk/photos/ferrari-458-speciale-elba-drive-2014-05-27

So I say 1.38 is utterly demonic. :)

I agree, 1.38 on street tires is amazing.

[metalmaker12]

The 818 is amazing guys

[Frank818]

If the builder is amazing, then the 818 will be.

[JeromeS13]

If the builder is amazing, then the 818 will be.

The builder doesn't have to be amazing. I'm proof of that. My car is kinda like the "let's make everything work and we'll deal with how it looks later" version. I'm not sure that I'll ever get around to that later part... Haha

[Scargo]

The 818 is amazing even me, guys.

[metalmaker12]

The builder doesn't have to be amazing. I'm proof of that. My car is kinda like the "let's make everything work and we'll deal with how it looks later" version. I'm not sure that I'll ever get around to that later part... Haha

Your just excited to drive it. I am the same way, it's such a rush and with my motor down I am jonesing.
But I brought a batch if parts to my old job to spray so I am kinda happy.

[metalmaker12]

If the builder is amazing, then the 818 will be.

Yea builder does not have to be amazing, I am also proof of this. I am a decent mechanic at best and pretty good body guy/painter. It's totally within people's abilities.

[JeromeS13]

Yea builder does not have to be amazing, I am also proof of this. I am a decent mechanic at best and pretty good body guy/painter. It's totally within people's abilities.

I'm the same way, except for the body/paint abilities. I has none... :-/

[Frank818]

Metal and Jerome, you don't seem to be dummies at all. :) That's what I meant.

[JeromeS13]

I edited my videos to include an overlay with telemetry data. This should give you guys a better idea of handling/accelaration.

https://www.youtube.com/user/jeromes13/videos

[JeromeS13]

And a few pictures that my buddy Taylor from Snail Performance took:

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/JeromeS13/Project%20818/NASA%20AZ%2031%20May%2014/10321166_10203975290963670_1867663617152969440_o_z ps6a77bee4.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/JeromeS13/media/Project%20818/NASA%20AZ%2031%20May%2014/10321166_10203975290963670_1867663617152969440_o_z ps6a77bee4.jpg.html)

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/JeromeS13/Project%20818/NASA%20AZ%2031%20May%2014/10387082_10203975302483958_1759402548666617331_o_z ps9421c4f2.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/JeromeS13/media/Project%20818/NASA%20AZ%2031%20May%2014/10387082_10203975302483958_1759402548666617331_o_z ps9421c4f2.jpg.html)

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/JeromeS13/Project%20818/NASA%20AZ%2031%20May%2014/10285177_10203975306004046_7384534938740451633_o_z ps6728bb88.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/JeromeS13/media/Project%20818/NASA%20AZ%2031%20May%2014/10285177_10203975306004046_7384534938740451633_o_z ps6728bb88.jpg.html)

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/JeromeS13/Project%20818/NASA%20AZ%2031%20May%2014/10382609_10203975297603836_1225595426585202947_o_z ps3c3656c1.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/JeromeS13/media/Project%20818/NASA%20AZ%2031%20May%2014/10382609_10203975297603836_1225595426585202947_o_z ps3c3656c1.jpg.html)

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/JeromeS13/Project%20818/NASA%20AZ%2031%20May%2014/1912382_10203975299683888_4342068010382667233_o_zp sdc279d96.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/JeromeS13/media/Project%20818/NASA%20AZ%2031%20May%2014/1912382_10203975299683888_4342068010382667233_o_zp sdc279d96.jpg.html)

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/JeromeS13/Project%20818/NASA%20AZ%2031%20May%2014/10298612_10203975300203901_3365963999286587868_o_z ps2ee0a4ed.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/JeromeS13/media/Project%20818/NASA%20AZ%2031%20May%2014/10298612_10203975300203901_3365963999286587868_o_z ps2ee0a4ed.jpg.html)

[JeromeS13]

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/JeromeS13/Project%20818/NASA%20AZ%2031%20May%2014/10353266_10203975302043947_6620275829726171529_o_z psd776966e.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/JeromeS13/media/Project%20818/NASA%20AZ%2031%20May%2014/10353266_10203975302043947_6620275829726171529_o_z psd776966e.jpg.html)

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/JeromeS13/Project%20818/NASA%20AZ%2031%20May%2014/10353534_10203975301643937_8508638189355691730_o_z ps0cf90745.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/JeromeS13/media/Project%20818/NASA%20AZ%2031%20May%2014/10353534_10203975301643937_8508638189355691730_o_z ps0cf90745.jpg.html)

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/JeromeS13/Project%20818/NASA%20AZ%2031%20May%2014/10321655_10203975306684063_982834206034439470_o_zp s2b972371.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/JeromeS13/media/Project%20818/NASA%20AZ%2031%20May%2014/10321655_10203975306684063_982834206034439470_o_zp s2b972371.jpg.html)

[metalmaker12]

Cool vids and nice pics, takes me back lol. I am hurting now

2979229793

[svanlare]

Thanks for sharing, looks awesome!

[Brando]

Are you running the sway bar?

[JeromeS13]

Are you running the sway bar?

Yes. The OEM 17mm bar.

[Brando]

Some people seem to think this car doesn't need an anti-sway bar. After looking at those pictures I'm thinking it's a good thing to include.
Awesome pictures bro

[metalmaker12]

I don't have a sway bar and it needs it.

[Brando]

You don't have an engine and it needs it ;)

[JeromeS13]

I'm going to play around with spring rates first. If it still feels like it's rolling too much, I may upgrade to a larger bar.

[metalmaker12]

You don't have an engine and it needs it ;)

True:(!!!!!

[RelfF2]

Jerome, awesome build! Thanks for sharing the pics and vids, looks awesome. Question, how tall are you, and how do you feel about the ergonomics? Just looking at your helmet in relation to the windshield and roll bar, it looks tight but not terrible...

[JeromeS13]

Jerome, awesome build! Thanks for sharing the pics and vids, looks awesome. Question, how tall are you, and how do you feel about the ergonomics? Just looking at your helmet in relation to the windshield and roll bar, it looks tight but not terrible...

I'm 5'8" ish, but my legs are a little on the short side. It feels fine to me. I have the Boyd tank, but I didn't modify the rear firewall. In fact, my seat is actually about 2" in front of the normal location of the firewall. I do wish I were able to get the seat lower... I think you would have to go with a seat like a Kirkey to gain anymore head room.

[RelfF2]

Thanks, though that's kinda the answer I was afraid of. One of the reasons I have yet to order my kit is that I want to see more 6 footers finishing and driving their cars. Besides the obviously more important safety issues, I have a fairly intense petpeev about sticking up too high out of roadsters. Despite the various reassurancs, I'm afraid I'm going to look like a bear on a tricycle driving this car.

[Brando]

I'm 6'5" using Kirkey seats and didn't bend any of the firewall aluminum to scoot the seat back further nor compress the steering. I am a little snug but definitely acceptable for my liking. I also pass a broomstick test and don't feel like 29819

[Frank818]

Intake temps, Jerome. Sorry it's too hard to watch my intake temp gauge while I floor it down on the streets, too many people around. I did notice an increase for the split of a second I could watch it, it went up from 90 to 120F about 1000-1500rpm after full boost. It increases pretty fast. :) If someday I succeed on a good run, I'll let you know.

[JeromeS13]

It's been far too long since I've done anything to my car... These AZ summers aren't much fun...

I made a fan shroud for my relocated AMR TMIC. I relocated it like Wallace18 did his, just above the transmission. I wanted only cool air from the upper rear vent to feed the intercooler, so I build a shroud with fans to pull air in from it. We'll see how well it works.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/JeromeS13/Project%20818/20140918_171351_zpshplubwid.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/JeromeS13/media/Project%20818/20140918_171351_zpshplubwid.jpg.html)

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/JeromeS13/Project%20818/20140918_172812_zpsirqadt1h.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/JeromeS13/media/Project%20818/20140918_172812_zpsirqadt1h.jpg.html)

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/JeromeS13/Project%20818/20140918_180449_zpskahukf9l.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/JeromeS13/media/Project%20818/20140918_180449_zpskahukf9l.jpg.html)

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/JeromeS13/Project%20818/20140918_182318_zpsonwya64m.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/JeromeS13/media/Project%20818/20140918_182318_zpsonwya64m.jpg.html)

[longislandwrx]

looks good. nice job.

[JeromeS13]

Meh. New intercooler setup not so good.... (please excuse the choppy video. I upgraded Gopros and my old memory car wasn't up to par)....


http://youtu.be/epSbbYAe-dY?list=UUxbdnwpfymM7uWZ9AQ2GrHg

[JeromeS13]

Haha. I just realized that my fastest lap of the weekend was with a passenger and when I had an "oh crap" moment and had to slightly counter-steer....

[xatudor]

Jerome,

Here's some information I came across in respect of the spring rates for the 818R

"If you are running the full downforce package, the 500lb springs mount in the rear with the 300lb springs in the front, if you are running without aero (specifically without a rear wing) then put the 300lb springs in the rear and the 500lb springs in the front."

also

"Sway bar:
Due to the heavier spring rates provided with the R chassis we do not generally run the front sway bar. If you are building the car as a street car and switch to the softer spring and shock package of the S model then the sway bar is still recommended."

Hope this helps

[Scargo]

How hot was ambient temps? I guess on-track temps could be higher... I saw a max of 210 on the video for the IAT. What kind of differential were you hoping for? How about some ducting from those side vents? I know you and I have talked, but I am surprised that nobody is using them for a real purpose other than general engine compartment cooling.

[RM1SepEx]

How hot was ambient temps? I guess on-track temps could be higher... I saw a max of 210 on the video for the IAT. What kind of differential were you hoping for? How about some ducting from those side vents? I know you and I have talked, but I am surprised that nobody is using them for a real purpose other than general engine compartment cooling.

I'm using the right one to feed a larger intercooler... I need a side scoop, waiting for Craig's in CF

34598

[MrDude_1]

heh, I have the same helmet as your passenger... HJC carbon. Really, I have 3 of them. 1 smashed the back in when I got rear ended on the interstate, one saved my face when I faceplanted after being hit by a drunk, and the 3rd one I bought as a replacement for the other two. good helmet. as far as your intercooler goes, I have to re-read your thread, to remember witch 818 this is (I try to read all the build threads, so I get them confused) but dont forget the other side of the air cooler. If you put an exit duct into a low pressure area, it will draw more air through it... although to be honest, I think this car really needs an air to water intercooler... rear engined cars can be finicky about airflow around the motor...

[JeromeS13]

Jerome,

Here's some information I came across in respect of the spring rates for the 818R

"If you are running the full downforce package, the 500lb springs mount in the rear with the 300lb springs in the front, if you are running without aero (specifically without a rear wing) then put the 300lb springs in the rear and the 500lb springs in the front."

also

"Sway bar:
Due to the heavier spring rates provided with the R chassis we do not generally run the front sway bar. If you are building the car as a street car and switch to the softer spring and shock package of the S model then the sway bar is still recommended."

Hope this helps

Not sure where this came from, but I did play around with the spring rates. During my first session in May, I had the front and rear tires rubbing under braking and over bumps. So, I installed some 400 lb springs in the front and moved the 350 lb springs in the rear. I also left the OEM swaybar installed. As of now, I have no aero add-ons. The car did feel better, and I had very little rubbing.


How hot was ambient temps? I guess on-track temps could be higher... I saw a max of 210 on the video for the IAT. What kind of differential were you hoping for? How about some ducting from those side vents? I know you and I have talked, but I am surprised that nobody is using them for a real purpose other than general engine compartment cooling.

I think during this video, the ambient was in the low 70's. I would love to keep the IAT's within 40 degress of ambient... I tried pulling air down from the vent and I even reversed the fans at one point to push air OUT of the vent. Basically the same results in both directions. (Although, pushing OUT of the vent was drawing hot engine/exhaust air through the IC...

[Wayne Presley]

You could use my AWIC ya know :cool:

[metalmaker12]

On your awic put a bleeder, I bet you had air in there.

[BrandonDrums]

Wait, does your car have the STi AMR TMIC mounted aft of the stock location as you say in the video details or are you using the AWIC you list in your parts list on the first post? I only see a shot of an AWIC in this thread...did you build 2 818's or are you playing with different setups?

[metalmaker12]

He's playing with different setups

[JeromeS13]

Wait, does your car have the STi AMR TMIC mounted aft of the stock location as you say in the video details or are you using the AWIC you list in your parts list on the first post? I only see a shot of an AWIC in this thread...did you build 2 818's or are you playing with different setups?


He's playing with different setups

^ What metalmaker said.

[BrandonDrums]

Cool, any data on which setup works best so far?

[Brando]

Hi Jerome. What prompted you to try A2A after having a A2W setup already in place?

[JeromeS13]

Cool, any data on which setup works best so far?

So far, the air-to-water is better.


Hi Jerome. What prompted you to try A2A after having a A2W setup already in place?

The water in the system was getting heat soaked during a session. I believe this is due to heat transfer from the radiator (I had the AWIC reservoir mounted up front). I wanted to try an A2A to see if I could eliminate the need to add ice water in between sessions. I want to see someone else's actual data from running an AWIC at the track before I decide which one to test further with. Hurry up, Brandon! haha

[Bob_n_Cincy]

The water in the system was getting heat soaked during a session. I believe this is due to heat transfer from the radiator (I had the AWIC reservoir mounted up front). I wanted to try an A2A to see if I could eliminate the need to add ice water in between sessions. I want to see someone else's actual data from running an AWIC at the track before I decide which one to test further with. Hurry up, Brandon! haha

Jerome,
Are you saying that you had a Ice water reservoir and NO heat exchanger?
Bob

[Hindsight]

If you had a heat exchanger, what were the dimensions of it?

[JeromeS13]

Jerome,
Are you saying that you had a Ice water reservoir and NO heat exchanger?
Bob

I had both, but essential just used the reservoir for increased capacity. I had to put ice water in the reservoir between sessions to get the system's water temperature back to ambient. Again, I believe my main problem was heat transferring from the (engine) coolant system's radiator.

[JeromeS13]

If you had a heat exchanger, what were the dimensions of it?

It was relatively small: 26"x7"x2"

http://www.frozenboost.com/water-to-air-heat-exchanger/air-to-water-radiator-p-1063.html

[Hindsight]

The 24x12x1 is the one I'd go for.... I think the thinner core is going to be better for getting airflow through it and also from preventing air from flowing around it and through the radiator instead of through it and then on to the radiator. Are you sure you didn't have any air in the system? I think someone else may have mentioned adding a bleeder to it.... would be a good idea. In any case, I'll continue watching your results!

[JeromeS13]

The 24x12x1 is the one I'd go for.... I think the thinner core is going to be better for getting airflow through it and also from preventing air from flowing around it and through the radiator instead of through it and then on to the radiator. Are you sure you didn't have any air in the system? I think someone else may have mentioned adding a bleeder to it.... would be a good idea. In any case, I'll continue watching your results!

I did try bleeding it (I had a filler installed just before the core) un-mounting the core and pulling that filler to the highest point. I then ran the pump and filled until I couldn't fill anymore. It made no difference in the temperature delta. I typically saw a delta (between the system's water temperature and IAT) of 50-60 degrees. If I do go back to A2W, I will be going with a larger core and probably that taller/thinner heat exchanger. I'll also be making some sort of ducting to channel the air out of the backside of the radiator.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hey Jerome,
I was looking at your pictures.
I see you awic pump mounted above your reservoir tank.
It is much better to mount your pump low.
With it up high, if air makes it to the pump all flow stops.
Bob

[JeromeS13]

Hey Jerome,
I was looking at your pictures.
I see you awic pump mounted above your reservoir tank.
It is much better to mount your pump low.
With it up high, if air makes it to the pump all flow stops.
Bob

That picture was taken before I tested the system. I ended up mounting the Bosch pump much lower. I even upgraded to a higher flowing Meziere pump (20 GPM vs. the Bosch's 5 GPM). It didn't make a measurable difference.

[07FIREBLADE]

Do you think if you made a shroud for your setup and added a fan to the system would it increase the delta temperature. Your results are starting to make me a bit nervous. I haven't been logging any data since my car isn't road worthy yet but if there are problems I can correct prior to finishing that would be great. Maybe a fan switch and a power switch for your water pump so you could push/pump while not under load like how a turbo timer would work might help. Just trying to think out load.

[metalmaker12]

That picture was taken before I tested the system. I ended up mounting the Bosch pump much lower. I even upgraded to a higher flowing Meziere pump (20 GPM vs. the Bosch's 5 GPM). It didn't make a measurable difference.

You need to have a bleeder from my research and suggestions I have gathered to make sure you get all the air out. Also you need a HE twice the height like Wayne's to bring the coolant temps way down. Also the lines have to be away from the radiator and it's lines to not result it potential heat soaking. I think if you do all this you won't have any more debates on which setup to use. With the full windshield and the a2a IC in its current location you simply can't get the air volume needed to cool the a2a core down. A setup in the R windscreen with a large duct between the humps to a large front mount mounted up against the rear cover with cut outs to flow air through that core would work well. A stock location or slightly moved top mount is proving to not be efficient in the platform from all of our collected data. Remember 140 is max we wanna ever see when moving under boost, lower is much better.

Ps I believe Wayne is about to track test with the 818 and his awic kit to get us track results.

[Mechie3]

From my research, given two exchangers of equal volume, the one with the thinner core and larger frontal area has better heat exchanging capability. You get a greater volume of air to hit it, more surface area for convection heat transfer, and the air cooling the back half of the exchanger isn't as heated as with a thicker core. It all makes sense, but I heat transfer wasn't my favorite subject in school and I haven't used it since graduating.

The Meziere pump that it was rated for 20gpm with no obstruction. Once you put restrictions on it, the output drops significantly. I found this while doing my initial research for my AWIC setup:

http://saleenforums.soec.org/showthread.php?t=15296

Within the Saleen forums unofficial testing post I found a link to this more data driven post:

http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/showthread.php?t=564702

I believe the meziere pumps are the 20GPM and 55GPM pumps. At low pressure drops they flow very well. With restriction they drop significantly and at a certain point under perform against other pumps.

[BrandonDrums]

Given the size of the space, why not experiment with an OEM Subaru radiator for the heat exchanger for the AWIC setup? They are cheap and some of you guys might have them left over from the donor after upgrading to a dual core racing rad. Can't get much thinner than that and the frontal area is literally the max size for the space.

[longislandwrx]

Jerome,

How is your fit in the ergo medium? I am on the fence between a small and a medium, I just want to make sure I wont be swimming in it.

im 5'8 about 170.

[JeromeS13]

Jerome,

How is your fit in the ergo medium? I am on the fence between a small and a medium, I just want to make sure I wont be swimming in it.

im 5'8 about 170.

It fits me pretty snuggly. We're about the same, but I have about 15 lbs on you.

[JeromeS13]

Given the size of the space, why not experiment with an OEM Subaru radiator for the heat exchanger for the AWIC setup? They are cheap and some of you guys might have them left over from the donor after upgrading to a dual core racing rad. Can't get much thinner than that and the frontal area is literally the max size for the space.

Since the heat exchanger mounts in front of the radiator position, you're actually working on a smaller area. The Subaru radiator probably would not fit without a lot of modification.

[longislandwrx]

It fits me pretty snuggly. We're about the same, but I have about 15 lbs on you.

is it snuggest in the hips?

[JeromeS13]

Yes.

[bompus]

Do you have photos of your wiper install with the remote reservoir kit?

[JeromeS13]

Do you have photos of your wiper install with the remote reservoir kit?

I don't have a wiper.

[bompus]

Oh, I thought you squeezed one under the hood. How did you get it registered?

[JeromeS13]

Oh, I thought you squeezed one under the hood. How did you get it registered?

Negative. I had a hand-held squeegee and a hand-held air horn, just in case they asked about it. The guy I had never even asked. They just looked at the paperwork, jotted down the engine block's serial number and asked me where I wanted him to put the VIN plate.

[Ellimist]

I had a hand-held squeegee and a hand-held air horn, just in case they asked about it.

LOL, that's awesome. I'll keep that in mind for my registration. BTW, just spent the last ?? (lots) of hours reading through your whole thread. Awesome - keep up the good work! Not sure how I've missed this thread for so long. Anyhow, speaking of registration, how'd you get it insured in order to be registered? Any recommendations? I have yet to receive my 818, but I just got done getting another kit car (albeit not quite in the same class as the 818 ;)) insured and registered - so far Progressive is the only one I've found.
-Ben

P.S. Here's a pic of the kit car that's been keeping me entertained prior to parting out my donor:
36341

[JeromeS13]

I have a policy through Leland-West (underwritten by American Modern). It is a collector car policy. As such, it has an annual mileage restriction of 3,000 miles. Also, this makes the car exempt from emissions as long as I carry this type of policy. There is, however, a whole thread dedicated to insurance and these cars.

[Ellimist]

There is, however, a whole thread dedicated to insurance and these cars.
I recall searching for that and didn't find much. But, granted, it was months ago....will commence re-searching!

[JeromeS13]

Well... I had a catastrophic transmission failure while strapped to the dyno today. We had planned on touching up the e85 tune and working on a 91 ACN (Arizona/California/Nevada) gas tune. However, on the 3rd e85 pull, the transmission exploded at around 4k RPM. At the time it happened, I just assumed that 3rd gear had sheared off... But after I looked in the car, there's apparently a hole in the front of the transmission casing. Also, I have no movement in any gear, forward or reverse. I drained the remaining fluid from the transmission and pulled several chunks from the drain hole. I can only speculate, but I'm assuming that something on the front differential ring/pinion failed.

FYI, this was a 2012 WRX transmission (stronger gears) with less than 40K miles on it.

Oh well... I have to weigh my options now... Replace it with another 5 speed and reduce the power (so I can get the car sold) or look for a 6 speed....

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/JeromeS13/Project%20818/IMG_20150328_150951_zpsjqau03mm.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/JeromeS13/media/Project%20818/IMG_20150328_150951_zpsjqau03mm.jpg.html)

[Scargo]

Oh, that's a bummer. Is that odd or are there stresses on a dyno that you don't see in street use?

[JeromeS13]

Well, the way it's strapped to the dyno practically eliminates wheel slippage. So, that probably added to the stress.

[C.Plavan]

Sorry about the trans. Grab a legacy GT 5 speed. I found my pair for $750ish each with 60k and 75k miles. Stronger gears- so far so good (knock on wood)

[JeromeS13]

Sorry about the trans. Grab a legacy GT 5 speed. I found my pair for $750ish each with 60k and 75k miles. Stronger gears- so far so good (knock on wood)

Chad, this one was from a 2012 WRX, which is the same gear set as the Legacy GT. :-/

[Hindsight]

Good seeing you back on Jerome, but sorry about the circumstance. Are you going to build something else after you sell the 818?

[DMC7492]

Jerome was the transmission worked on such as installing a differential? Just
Wondering if the failure was caused by shear torque or some other possibly gear set up or differential bearings scattering from improper set up. Others have put down similar hp and torque numbers...

[JeromeS13]

Jerome was the transmission worked on such as installing a differential? Just
Wondering if the failure was caused by shear torque or some other possibly gear set up or differential bearings scattering from improper set up. Others have put down similar hp and torque numbers...

The transmission had never been opened. I can't vouch for the amount of abuse it suffered in it's sub 40K miles. But, I do know that the case had never been touched.

[bbjones121]

Sorry to hear about the tranny. Did you find the throwout bearing after the damage? The throwout bearing can seize and rip the snout off the case, happened to me. If you get a legacy gt transmission, get the Tranquil TSK3 kit. I would recommend getting it for any subaru transmission since the snout is aluminum and part of the case. I think Fred will give you a discount if you join legacygt.com.

http://www.fredbeansparts.com/subaru-legacy-gt-tranquil-tsk3-sleeve-kit.html


Sorry about the trans. Grab a legacy GT 5 speed. I found my pair for $750ish each with 60k and 75k miles. Stronger gears- so far so good (knock on wood)

Hey Chad, I recommend you definitely get one.

[STiPWRD]

Sorry to hear about the tranny. Did you find the throwout bearing after the damage? The throwout bearing can seize and rip the snout off the case, happened to me. If you get a legacy gt transmission, get the Tranquil TSK3 kit. I would recommend getting it for any subaru transmission since the snout is aluminum and part of the case. I think Fred will give you a discount if you join legacygt.com.

http://www.fredbeansparts.com/subaru-legacy-gt-tranquil-tsk3-sleeve-kit.html



Hey Chad, I recommend you definitely get one.

I bought one of these kits too. As my wrx got into the upper mileage range, my throwout bearing would sometimes bind on the snout when actuating the clutch which caused at least 2 premature pressure plate failures. Essentially, the ring on the pressure plate that locks to the throwout bearing cracked both times because the throwout bearing was stuck on the snout. But at least I got good at doing clutch jobs :/

[C.Plavan]

Sorry to hear about the tranny. Did you find the throwout bearing after the damage? The throwout bearing can seize and rip the snout off the case, happened to me. If you get a legacy gt transmission, get the Tranquil TSK3 kit. I would recommend getting it for any subaru transmission since the snout is aluminum and part of the case. I think Fred will give you a discount if you join legacygt.com.

http://www.fredbeansparts.com/subaru-legacy-gt-tranquil-tsk3-sleeve-kit.html



Hey Chad, I recommend you definitely get one.

Thanks for the heads up. I'll pick up a kit. Maybe I'll swap it out in the off season. It sucks, I just had the axles off and associated stuff. I could of pulled the trans really quickly.

[JeromeS13]

Here's an update on where mine failed at. 2012 WRX transmission.

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/JeromeS13/Project%20818/IMG_20150511_172337_zpswj09idof.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/JeromeS13/media/Project%20818/IMG_20150511_172337_zpswj09idof.jpg.html)

[Wayne Presley]

It's not supposed to look like that? :cool:

[JeromeS13]

It's not supposed to look like that? :cool:

Only if you want to have One Flintstone Power (FP). :cool:

[Hindsight]

Are you going to do another 5 speed or are you going to upgrade to a 6? What kind of numbers were you putting down when it blew?

The added weight of a six speed is a lot, and the extra gear really isn't needed for the 818 but they sure are bullet proof.

[JeromeS13]

Are you going to do another 5 speed or are you going to upgrade to a 6? What kind of numbers were you putting down when it blew?

The added weight of a six speed is a lot, and the extra gear really isn't needed for the 818 but they sure are bullet proof.

It's already been replaced with another 5 speed from an '06 WRX. It was on the same tune, making 340HP/390TQ to the wheels.

[JeromeS13]

Well, I have started the process for getting the registration transferred to California. Looks like I'll have to reintegrate some of the wiring that I removed (and threw away), so that I can install the factory gauge cluster... FUN!

[Hindsight]

Ouch... maybe a junkyard-sourced harness would save some time. Good luck, I haven't even started the wiring on mine yet.

[JeromeS13]

Ouch... maybe a junkyard-sourced harness would save some time. Good luck, I haven't even started the wiring on mine yet.

I've ordered a cluster harness from eBay. Hopefully I'll be able to resolve everything, as long as I have the plugs... On the plus side, I'll be able to sell my AiM Sport Pista separately. Woohoo!

[Frank818]

CA requires you run the OEM cluster?

[JeromeS13]

CA requires you run the OEM cluster?

Not exactly. However, they do require that you have indicators for the exterior lights (blinkers, high beams, etc., as well as a parking brake light). While it wouldn't be too difficult to make something, I would rather just install the OEM gauge cluster. This will also help to lower the price point of my car and add some cash to my pockets. :-D

[Frank818]

Looks the same as me here. They don't mind about the cluster, but they do mind about indicators and pictographs, including yes that parking brake.

[07FIREBLADE]

You need to make sure your mileage matches then if you don't have the stock cluster anymore. Mine broke but I got a different set and I'm just using less for the indicators.

[wleehendrick]

Not exactly. However, they do require that you have indicators for the exterior lights (blinkers, high beams, etc., as well as a parking brake light). While it wouldn't be too difficult to make something, I would rather just install the OEM gauge cluster. This will also help to lower the price point of my car and add some cash to my pockets. :-D

Hi Jerome,

I haven't registered mine yet, but I remember Brandon failed the first time and got a laundry list of brake/light non-compliances. His second inspection at a different garage went fine without making any fixes. So, a lot depends on the inspector, and he registered a barebones R with no windshield in CA, so you might want to ask him for advice before committing to a lot of re-work.

Lee

[JeromeS13]

Hi Jerome,

I haven't registered mine yet, but I remember Brandon failed the first time and got a laundry list of brake/light non-compliances. His second inspection at a different garage went fine without making any fixes. So, a lot depends on the inspector, and he registered a barebones R with no windshield in CA, so you might want to ask him for advice before committing to a lot of re-work.

Lee

Definitely on the same page. I sent him a PM already and I'm just waiting to here back from him. I wish that I were closer to Sacramento, so I could just go to the same spots he did. Haha

[JeromeS13]

Small update on mine getting registered in California:

5 June 2015 - Made initial visit to DMV. They informed me of the process. I will need to get inspected by the CHP, a Brake and Lamp Inspection, and go see the BAR guys. They said that I should get a "certificate" in the mail with my sequence number (SB100 number? mine is 2015149) and that I need that before I schedule anything with the BAR guys (they'll need it). Same day I call and scheduled an appointment with the local CHP office for the first available (19 June 2015). I also inquire with the Brake and Lamp guys what they're looking for... Bummer, looks like I need internal indicators for my exterior lights (blinkers, high beams, etc., as well as a parking brake light). So, I proceed to re-wire the OEM gauge cluster and remove the AIM Sport dash.

19 June 2015 - I make my visit to the CHP with a little concern. I do not have a horn. I do not have wipers. I do not have airbags... CHP officer checks the VIN plate that was already assigned by Arizona and the mileage on the cluster. Ok, we're good. SUPER EASY! Sweet!

26 June 2015 - I finally have time to make an appointment for my Brake and Lamp inspection. Everything goes fine, except my passenger side headlight. It won't adjust up enough to pass the inspection. It seems that the adjusting mechanism is broken or dislodged. Driver side adjusts upwards just fine. I get a certificate for the Brake Inspection, and have to come back when I resolve the headlight issue. I ordered a replacement headlight off of eBay for $42.95. Hopefully this one isn't broken! Oh, and I do not have a hazard button installed (and all of those wires were removed). He reviewed the California Codes discussing the use of Hazard lamps. But nowhere does it state that you are required to have them. :cool:

As of today, 26 June 2015, I still haven't received a "certificate" with my SB100 information. California guys, how long did it take to get yours?

[07FIREBLADE]

You should get it normally in 4-8weeks knowing Cali DMV. I'm right behind you at 2015158. Waiting on it to do my BAR inspection already did the CHP and brake and light. At least your initial DMV visit result in you getting a number. Yup you will need indicators for all those lights. You could just leave the aim dash in place and run a led for each light. That's what my gauge cluster has. I'm using speedhut gauges instead of stock and the brake and light guys waved me through. Hazard needs to be installed aswell and shouldn't take to much work to reintegrate.

On another note when did you make the move to Cali? Noticed it on your location but never asked.

[JeromeS13]

I got here in the middle of March.

[07FIREBLADE]

Nice hopefully you get your number soon. At least your really close to the DMV headquarter. I would give it another week or two then start calling the DMV and asking for an update. Who knows though I asked for a refund for some fees I paid back in March and just got a check this week from the DMV.

[matteo92065]

Good info!
I'm am also waiting on my DMV certificate. I think I'm about 3 weeks of waiting. I'm number 2015125.
At least you have head light adjustments. The factory 5 ones have nothing. I just am hoping I pass the Brake & Light inspection. And I better call CHP for an appointment.
Thanks for updates and details, keep them coming.

[JeromeS13]

Good info!
I'm am also waiting on my DMV certificate. I think I'm about 3 weeks of waiting. I'm number 2015125.
At least you have head light adjustments. The factory 5 ones have nothing. I just am hoping I pass the Brake & Light inspection. And I better call CHP for an appointment.
Thanks for updates and details, keep them coming.

The ones that I have ARE the FFR provided units. It's just weird that the driver side has tons of adjustment, while the passenger side has very little. That's why I assumed it was broken or something...

[matteo92065]

I will have to look at mine more carefully. IIRC that was one of the reasons people were going to the Spyder lights, because of the adjustment.
Thx.

[07FIREBLADE]

The spyder headlights had the weird angle to them that many couldn't figure out. I went that route then went back to stick with a projector retrofit into the FFR headlights. I passed brake and light but want to upgrade to the new front end for ease of assembly.

[JeromeS13]

Today I had my inspection with the BAR referee to determine the emission requirements on my car. The guy told me that this is the typical process with them: they'll get a copy of all of the paperwork that I have, they take some pictures of various parts of the car, and send all of that to the Sacramento office for review. Then, Sacramento makes a determination to grant/deny the SB100 certificate. He said that it takes a little while and that I would have to come back once Sacramento made the decision. But after he reviewed all of my paperwork and asked if I had pictures showing the building process (to prove that I put it together myself :cool: ), he said that he could approve it on the spot and give me the certification today! He said that rarely every happens at his location! Now I just need to turn all of my paperwork in to the DMV and get my title/plates! Woohoo!

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/JeromeS13/Project%20818/IMG_20150803_131729_zpsvwajqrxj.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/JeromeS13/media/Project%20818/IMG_20150803_131729_zpsvwajqrxj.jpg.html)

[svanlare]

AWESOME! Congrats now on getting through the process in two states.

[matteo92065]

So jealous!
Congratulations.

I'm going into the Referee on Thursday. I'll bring lots of pictures, papers, drawings, etc.

[flynntuna]

Way to go, congrats!!!

[JeromeS13]

So jealous!
Congratulations.

I'm going into the Referee on Thursday. I'll bring lots of pictures, papers, drawings, etc.

Good luck!

[Hindsight]

Congrats!

[07FIREBLADE]

Nice. Did they give you any headaches. Or was it just straightforward? I'm schedule for tomorrow and can't figure out what they would need to do for a 1.5hr appointment.

[AZPete]

Congrats, Jerome Sir.

[JeromeS13]

Nice. Did they give you any headaches. Or was it just straightforward? I'm schedule for tomorrow and can't figure out what they would need to do for a 1.5hr appointment.

Everything was pretty straight forward, as long as you have all supporting documentation. I was only there for about 30 minutes or so.

[Brando]

So I take it the brake and light inspection went smooth? You found a pretty cool Ref. I had to wait 6 weeks while Sacramento did their thing. Congrats Jerome you knocked that process out FAST!

[JeromeS13]

So I take it the brake and light inspection went smooth? You found a pretty cool Ref. I had to wait 6 weeks while Sacramento did their thing. Congrats Jerome you knocked that process out FAST!

Yeah, I took care of the Brake/Lamp and CHP inspection quite a while ago. I'm about two months into the process right now, from the day that I initiated things with the DMV.

[Frank818]

Woohoo!!!!!!!!! :D

[JeromeS13]

:cool: She's up for sale again!

http://i157.photobucket.com/albums/t43/JeromeS13/Project%20818/IMG_20150806_150237_zpsxb9imnyb.jpg (http://s157.photobucket.com/user/JeromeS13/media/Project%20818/IMG_20150806_150237_zpsxb9imnyb.jpg.html)

[Frank818]

What will you do after selling?

[JeromeS13]

What will you do after selling?

No idea! haha

[MrDude_1]

Dude, you made Jalopnik!!
http://jalopnik.com/for-25-000-you-could-own-this-2014-factory-five-racin-1725972412


now lets figure out if the general automotive masses see the value of an 818.

[Tamra]

Awesome that it made it to Jalopnik! Publicity for the 818 is a good thing. Seems like there are some mixed comments there. Some make a good point, some show the lack of public knowledge about the 818 and the associated costs, some are spot on and excited. There's obviously more respect for the Cobra kit. Hopefully the 818 will get there with time.

I think Jerome's car is well worth the asking price. I know how much money and time it takes to build one of these.

[TrickyPete]

Reading the comments on jalopnik and someone said "it looks like a toothless benadryl induced shark but... thumbs up!"
Bah hahaha