Ray's hotrod

[rcotner]

Let me start with a little bit about me and my motivation to do this. Right up front I have no idea what I'm doing, which is exactly why I am doing it. I have spent the past 30 years building semiconductors (computer chips) and been living in the world of the ridiculously small. Any mechanical aptitude I might be able to muster will have to come from my early years as a process engineer when I spent a lot of time maintaing and repairing the equipment used in our factories to make silicon integrated circuits. I fell in love with cars (again) about 5 years ago as my kids were growing up and leaving home. I became a mustang guy when I found a red '01 cobra that I absolutely loved. I decided a few years ago that I would build a car in my garage (I must have been drinking). I finally pulled the trigger on the '33 late last summer. I have made a little progress and have spent a lot of time reading the manual and this forum. I have to admit that I am becoming a bit intimidated but I am nothing if not persistent. It may take me 5 years but I WILL get it done. I am looking forward to being part of this community and leveraging everyones wisdom to help me get through this. Wish me luck!!!!

P.S. I included a picture of my mustang for fun. My profile image is my other car a 2012 Boss 302 laguna seca. As you can tell I have a problem! :p

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[rcotner]

One other quick thing. Is it this frustrating for everyone to find so many parts on back order. There is a small buy key part missing from virtually every section, front end, rear end, pedal box... I get started, try to skip ahead only to find another backordered part. To early to start complaining I know. Just looking for sympathy!

[esff32]

Looking forward to seeing your progress. Ask as many questions as you can, I certainly have. It is truly an amazing forum with people full of information. Let me know if I can be of assistance to you.

Evan

[bbksv]

Just keep working on something...even if things are on backorder..work on something else...there is always something to do. Also, if you have been waiting on things on backorder make sure you call them to get a status. They sure won't call you..I had to call for pretty much every part I had on backorder.

And, it doesn't matter how long you take. The journey is part of the fun :)

[kraftee]

I second the part about calling often. In fact, you better call FFR at least once a week. They will EVENTUALLY get everything to you - but you will get a lot of stories about parts being sent "probably early next week". Then, you will get exactly the same story the following week when they don't arrive at your house - "Yeah, they should go out early NEXT week." I am doing a relatively fast build (picked up my kit on September 8th and two months later I am at the go-cart stage), and it was only in the last two weeks or so that I ran out of things to do and the few remaining backordered parts really held me up. So, with a long build like you are planning, you shouldn't have too much of an issue. Just keep hammering away at your FFR rep (and Jessie in shipping). The build and the end product is worth it for sure. Have a great time! ERIC

[Tim Whittaker]

Welcome to the madness !!!

If there's anything we can do to help on your build, let me know. HAVE SOME FUN !!!!

Tim Whittaker
Kootenai Valley Customs

kootenaivalleycustoms.com

[68GT500MAN]

Welcome to the forum. Keep moving forward and your dream will come to life!
Doug

[crspdsk8]

My kit was delivered almost a month ago, and I also had the same issue with a lot of "key" parts needed to build they way I had planned. Most of the parts did come rather quickly but I am still waiting on the last couple parts which I just received an email with a tracking# and should arrive next Tuesday! Finally!! These last parts are the clevis's needed to finish the front suspension. Like others have said, just keep moving along with anything and everything you can. The more you can do now why you wait, the less you will need to do later.

Like you, I am also new to the car building thing, but I must say their is a lot of help out there on these forums and great people willing to help and answer questions!

Good luck with your build!

[rcotner]

Thanks everyone for the great responses and support. I'm told my last back order shipment is going out tomorrow. I look forward to talking to you all in the future and good luck with your projects too!!

[rcotner]

Thanks! It's nice to see that I'm not the only "junior" member out there ;)!

[rcotner]

I am ready to throw down the bucks for a rear end. Any suggestions? I am looking at at ford racing 3.73 complete assembly. I have seen some suppliers that offer rear ends with the FFR 3 link upper control arm bracked welded to the axl. Is that worth the extra cost?

[rcotner]

All the parts are here. I have the front end done except the spindles. I got some touch up paint made for me at Napa. Ford performance red. That is the color of my 2001 cobra mustang and it is the primary theme color for the car. The touch up paint will come in handy since it seems I can't help but ding my frame!
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[esff32]

Nice color Ray, get yourself some foam pipe insulation from your home improvement store and wrap all the chassis tubing to protect your frame during the build. Hopefully that will help limit the amount of touch up. Looking good bro.

[wallace18]

WOW!!! That is awesome dude. Great choice. I can't wait to watch this build.

[68GT500MAN]

I am seeing RED!!!!

[Arrowhead]

Don't want to hijack you thread, but that Performance Red is what I painted my '70 Mustang. I thought it had a little orange to it.

https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ywyPZcb6gZI/UpYzL5buJrI/AAAAAAAAMVU/rqB3pgdiM7A/s720/12151438730.jpg

[Boz1911]

Congrats on the purchase. As stated above you will get your backorders slowly but surely. I only got too far ahead in one area where I had to do some disassembly. The red looks great but you need to get a bunch of foam to protect it. Solving problems and overcoming issues is part of the satisfaction you get. Have fun and enjoy!!

[rcotner]

Here is my inspiration...
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[Robert Andrew]

I just received my 33 Hotrod a week ago, and I have not discovered any missing or back ordered parts. It would appear that FFR has solved any supply chain issues they may have had. I can imagine that bringing together 25 boxes of parts from multiple vendors would be a logistical challenge. At some point one of the outside vendors is going to create a problem.

[wallace18]

I just received my 33 Hotrod a week ago, and I have not discovered any missing or back ordered parts. It would appear that FFR has solved any supply chain issues they may have had. I can imagine that bringing together 25 boxes of parts from multiple vendors would be a logistical challenge. At some point one of the outside vendors is going to create a problem.

Wow! that is great! You are a lucky man.

[rcotner]

I am finding that there are some miss-sized parts. Two of the grease fittings were too small ($4.00 later at Napa and that was fixed), the spacer that goes under the lower control arm castle nut is too thin (supposed to 0.25" it is maybe an eighth). They still owe me a clutch quadrant assembly. I get that it is probably a complex process put a car into a bunch of cardboard boxes and not miss a few things but it is a test of my patience.

On the castle nut. If I torqe to spec it is very unlikely that one of the slots in the nut will line up with the cotter pin hole. Since there is very little compression in the nut to ball joint interface, once you hit bottom that is it. If you back off to line the castle nut up with the hole the the nut is loose. Any suggestions?

[esff32]

I have/had the same problem Ray. I was told by another member to put a flat washer on top of the nut and then put the cotter pin through the hole. Seems kinda lame, defeats the purpose of the castle nut.

Evan

[rcotner]

Thanks Evan! I need to ask another question that is probably pretty dumb but there will be NO way to torque the lower arm castle nut because once is hits bottom the ball joint post just spins in place! I assume the spindle should seat onto the shaft of the post but I cant seem to get it to do it on either side. Even with the help of my mallet it will not seat and the post just spins. help??

By the way...Happy Thanksgiving

[sheephearder]

Sachse Rod Shop in Sachse Texas has washers to fix your problem.

[esff32]

Thats strange, I can't remember if I had the same issue or not. Unfortunately I dont have a solution but I would love to know what the answer is. Hopefully some of these gurus can chime in and offer a solution. Sorry I'm not more help brother...and Happy Holidays to you and yours. Please keep me in the loop with this one.

[Arrowhead]

Sometimes the spindle has a ridge inside the tapered hole and you need to make sure the surface smooth so it makes good contact and can get some traction. Might need to run a rat tail file through it to knock off any burrs.

[rcotner]

Thanks Arrowhead, I will give it a try. It is the lower control arms only and on both sides. Will give it a try.

[rcotner]

Finally made some progress. Front end done. Brakes under way. Every time I turn around I need a new tool. I guess that is to be expected for a rookie.
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[rcotner]

The Wilwoods are installed!
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I have a question about the steering rack. The manual refers to a poly bushing and delrin spacer to attach the right side of the rack. I can't find these parts and they are not listed in my parts list or back order parts list. Am I missing something? Any help would be appreciated!!
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The parts on my bench are what's left of my rack parts except for the rod ends and bearings.

[esff32]

I dont believe I have those parts. You should give Tony Zullo a call and describe the problem. I just spoke to him and found out that I have the wrong bracket, the one you are referring to. The rack was moving around up to 3/16" when you turn the wheel. You may have the updated bracket and it wouldn't be out of the ordinary for the manual to not reflect the change, I had this same issue with the new and improved clutch quadrant. Hope this helps.

Evan

[rcotner]

Thanks Evan! I really appreciate your help! I will give him a call.

[esff32]

Anytime!

[crspdsk8]

The Wilwoods are installed!
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I have a question about the steering rack. The manual refers to a poly bushing and delrin spacer to attach the right side of the rack. I can't find these parts and they are not listed in my parts list or back order parts list. Am I missing something? Any help would be appreciated!!
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The parts on my bench are what's left of my rack parts except for the rod ends and bearings.

I had the same issue. I contacted FFR and the sent me over the updated instructions for the new steering rack. Here is the picture I sent to them which are the parts needed to mount the rack that you have pictured along with the hardware.
http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b575/crspdsk33/FFR%2033%20Build/Steeringrackparts_zps0760264d.jpg (http://s1292.photobucket.com/user/crspdsk33/media/FFR%2033%20Build/Steeringrackparts_zps0760264d.jpg.html)
Here is the mount installed with the rack.
http://i1292.photobucket.com/albums/b575/crspdsk33/FFR%2033%20Build/Steeringrackmountinstalled_zps430ede98.jpg (http://s1292.photobucket.com/user/crspdsk33/media/FFR%2033%20Build/Steeringrackmountinstalled_zps430ede98.jpg.html)

I hope this helps you. If you want to PM me with your email address, I can send you the updated instructions for the manual on the new steering rack.

Charles

[kraftee]

Yeah, I also had the new pieces. Just powdercoat them and install them. The rack is held completely rigid in place with them.

[rcotner]

That is perfect!! Thanks for the info.

[rcotner]

I usually have only an hour or two here and there to work on my 33. I knew that is how it would be but I still wish I could spend a bit more time on it. So far I have the front end done, steering rack installed and the pedal box in. After I figure out how to mount the brake reservoir I will start bending brake lines.

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[rcotner]

Slow but steady wins the race, right... I am running the brake lines outside the frame like others. I don't want to re-plumb the brakes later so I would appreciate confirmation that this is still the right thing to do.

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[wallace18]

Make sure your brake lines stay to the back side of the verticle tube going down the frame near the firewall area. Body may hit if too far to the front. See esff32's thread for pics.

[esff32]

Looking good Ray!

[rcotner]

Firewall and steering column in. Quick question, how does one get the DD shaft through the firewall bearing?? It is not going to fit. It seems a bit weird to have to grind the shaft down but it may be the only way.

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[H R Lucky]

Use a piece of emery cloth or good sand paper in 180 or 150 grit, sand it down a little bit, it will fit.

[rcotner]

Got it to go. Thanks for the advice!

[rcotner]

Time to update the thread. Finished the steering system:
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Finished the rear brakes and the brake lines:
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Assembled and install rear end:

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[rcotner]

One the more intimidating aspects of this project, for me anyway, is the wiring. I can put it off no longer....

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[maczter]

Looking great, same fear and step as I am on. I am deconstructing most of the dash harness to make it look better and remove those lines that I don't need. Good luck!

[rcotner]

Thanks and good luck to you too!!

[crspdsk8]

Looking good Ray! I am also starting on the harness which just like you is pretty intimidating to me too. Good luck!

[rcotner]

Good luck to you too! It is cool to see that there are several of us on the same step. I ordered my kit in two phases due to storage issues. I just placed the order for the next batch of parts. I am still not sure where I will keep the body parts as I finish up. That is a good problem to have! Too much fun.

[rcotner]

Met with my local Ford Racing guy (aldridgemotorsportsinc.com) to get the final quote for my engine/tranny combo. I will be getting an aluminator XS (TiVCT 5.0 Ford enhanced a bit with Cobrajet components) and T56 transmission. I can't wait to hear it roar!

[rcotner]

Its been a busy week after a bit of time off for lack of parts. I ordered my engine and transmission. I can't wait to see my aluminator XS in person!
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My gas tank arrived.
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Got the firewall prepped for lizard skin application. I wish I would have done this BEFORE I riveted the firewall to the frame. Oh well, I'm a rookie, live and learn.
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Painted my ford racing differential girdle and bolted it on.
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[dagall]

I was intimidated by the wiring as well. Just follow the book and the wiring is well labeled. Wasn't an issue at all.

[esff32]

Looks awesome Ray. That motor is really nice.

Evan

[rcotner]

Thanks Evan! Yeah, definitely overkill (if thats possible :)). At the end of the day I am a tech junkie and I am enamored with the technology in this engine.

[rcotner]

I was intimidated by the wiring as well. Just follow the book and the wiring is well labeled. Wasn't an issue at all.

Thanks dagall. I find that is true with a lot of things. Always seems scary looking forward and not so much looking back!

[H R Lucky]

Met with my local Ford Racing guy (aldridgemotorsportsinc.com) to get the final quote for my engine/tranny combo. I will be getting an aluminator XS (TiVCT 5.0 Ford enhanced a bit with Cobrajet components) and T56 transmission. I can't wait to hear it roar!

Ray,
if you are going to use the Ford Racing intake manifold (pictured) be sure to get the modified hood (raised) as the stock hood won't clear that manifold.

[rcotner]

Thanks Nevin. I ordered the kit with the modified hood. I am glad they offered that as an option.

[rcotner]

Tires on and on the ground for the first time. This is getting really fun now!

[rcotner]

Here are a couple pics to my very high tech paint booth and a shout out to my factory five wheels. They look great!!
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[rcotner]

Here is the wheel pic...
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[esff32]

Those look great Ray, very nice.

[wallace18]

Boy! That red frame looks awesome! You are doing a fine job, you should be proud. Soon it will be go-cart time. LOL

[rcotner]

Thanks Wallace and Evan. Means a lot coming from you guys. I hope to have it running in a couple months!

[rcotner]

Finally got the brakes bled. First time for me around that problem and I am glad it is done. I did make a rookie with an impact wrench mistake today. I cross threaded a lug nut. Are there any tools for cleaning up threads or am I stuck pulling the hub and having the lug pressed out and replaced?

[Boz1911]

Finally got the brakes bled. First time for me around that problem and I am glad it is done. I did make a rookie with an impact wrench mistake today. I cross threaded a lug nut. Are there any tools for cleaning up threads or am I stuck pulling the hub and having the lug pressed out and replaced?

If it's not too bad you can use a 1/2 - 20 die to clean things up, keep it well lubed.

[stacked33]

I polished out the bearing. That way you are not removing the nickle plating on the shaft and it won't rust.
Firewall and steering column in. Quick question, how does one get the DD shaft through the firewall bearing?? It is not going to fit. It seems a bit weird to have to grind the shaft down but it may be the only way.

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[rcotner]

Wheel spacers arrived and installed (before and after pictures below) I definitely like the wider stance.

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Dynaliner started. I have decided to go with lizard skin on the outside of the firewall and Dynaliner on the inside.

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[donshapansky]

28623Ray, are you running A/C? I'm at that point and have run into an issue with A/C compressor fittings. The compressor belt install looks to tough but in fact is not that bad. If you are ready soon to put the engine let me know and I will give you some pointers, i.e., headers, sequence, alternator with pictures etc.

[MPTech]

Cool build Ray!
Love the frame color and the chrome really sets it off well (what color / theme will the body be?)

Great choice on the wheels, they really look good. (what size tires are you running? Rears look meaty. I LIKE!)

[rcotner]

I don't plan to run AC. In western Oregon it is possible to get by without it. I just dropped the engine in. I would love some pointers! The more pictures the better! Thanks!!

[rcotner]

MP tech, thanks! The frame color seems to get a lot of attention. It is Ford performance red. I used to have a 2001 mustang cobra in that color and fell in love with it. I will be using a similar scheme as my Boss 302 (see my profile pic). I really like the red and black combo. My tires are 315R20 nice and fat. Thanks for the nice words!

[rcotner]

The Aluminator has finally arrived! Three months in the building. It is a beautiful piece of engineering. I wish I had the skills and confidence to build my own but I have to admit that this beautiful chunk of mustang aluminum makes me very happy. 500+ hp, 2200 lb car, no traction control. It is a good thing I am basically a cautious guy! :cool:

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[esff32]

Impressive Ray. That hotrod is gonna fly. Congrats on getting the motor in...Hugh milestone.

[rcotner]

Thanks Evan!

[Boz1911]

Congrats on the engine install, looks awesome. I originally thought about that route but got pushed into building my own. I went old school but now I'm already looking at fuel injection to modernize mine.

[donshapansky]

Ray, I found that the right header will not bolt up without lifting the engine, removing the motor mount and starter if you are using the studs and nut, there is one nut that will not slide on nor can you get a wrench on it without doing these steps. I found the left header easier and no lifting needed. I have the same intake and am looking at how to get the filter in place with the hood on, it's going to be a challenge.

[rcotner]

Don,

Thanks for the heads up. I had plannned on using bolts as opposed to studs and nuts. I had intened to use the 12 point low profile bolts. I wonder if this will work without lifting and removing stuff.

Did you get the hood with the bump in it? If so do you still have intake clearance issues?

[rcotner]

Congrats on the engine install, looks awesome. I originally thought about that route but got pushed into building my own. I went old school but now I'm already looking at fuel injection to modernize mine.

Thanks Boz! Good luck with the FI upgrade.

[rcotner]

Here are a few more pictures of the engine and grill post install. I hope to post the first start video soon!!

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[donshapansky]

Here are some shots of the air filter system, not sure what to do yet about mods to get inside of the hood. I found a Ford adaptor to allow the oil filter to remain in place, it should arrive today, if you look at the Hot Rod project car they have their oil filter in the stock location but canted up.
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[donshapansky]

Ray if you will need a vacuum fitting for the fuel pressure regulator, the Boss engine has the correct fitting to mate up the spigot on the left front the SCJ intake. I will have the part no. later today or tomorrow. One of the wiring changes needed is to re-pin the harness connector from the throttle body to the engine harness, it is not easy when you try to remove the wires from the old connector, I found the easiest way was to carefully cut the old connector apart using a dremel with a very small cutter because it's so difficult to get a very small screwdriver under the tiny plastic tabs that release the pins for removal. I'm also using Mustang Coyote heater hoses because of the push connector that comes with the hose, of course that's only if you are going to use a heater. When installing the MAF sensor remember the electrical plug to connect is in the Coyote harness (labeled), look for a 6 pin connector in the coyote harness that will need to be removed and the connector you need is plugged into the throttle body harness provided, at least mine was and it took a while to figure it out.

[rcotner]

Here are some shots of the air filter system, not sure what to do yet about mods to get inside of the hood. I found a Ford adaptor to allow the oil filter to remain in place, it should arrive today, if you look at the Hot Rod project car they have their oil filter in the stock location but canted up.
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Don, I really appreciate the info you share! May I ask how you came by your air filter system. I assume you either made it yourself or had it fabricated. Do you by any chance have a part number or drawing for it?

[donshapansky]

That's from Ford Racing I think it is part of the SCJ intake, mine was backordered for months and just came in to the dealership last week. I will get the part no.

[rcotner]

Looks like the is it?

m-9603-m50cj

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[donshapansky]

Yes that is it, I solved the oil filter deal today without using a remote mount, I was not at peace with where or how to mount the filter. So here are some pictures, the Ford Racing Part No M-6880-M22 is no longer available but I found one in Houston, it is a swivel 90 degree mount and I found a very short filter by WIX 51335. The next thing was the oil pressure sender had to mounted on angle using a 45 degree elbow worked and you see how close everything is but filter comes off easily.
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[donshapansky]

I forgot a couple of things, I have the raised hood on order but it has not arrived yet. I'm having driveshaft issues, the AODE must be different after 2 tries I'm going to have one shortened, apparently the HOT ROD project had the same problem.
Now it's on with A/C installation and it looks like a lot of fabrication on the hose side of things, fortunately there is a great shop in Fort Worth that can make anything. I have to make drawings and measurements that probably won't all work on the first stab. I'm having trouble with the condenser mounting brackets they are not close in terms of the needed fit to get the hood hinges to work. Maybe Tim has some ideas?

[rcotner]

I dropped my drive shaft off at a local driveline shop here in Portland. Mine was long by about 5/8". Sounds like this is a very common problem. Simple enough to fix I guess.

I was wondering where you mounted your PCU. Inside on the firewall or elsewhere?

[donshapansky]

The engine module I installed under the engine, there was a bracket provided in the Coyote package from FFR, bolted on easily and looks fine, my Boss unit is mounted to right of the radiator. You are limited by the harness as to how far away it can be from the engine, considering the MAF sensor plug, the cooling fan wiring etc. I opted to go with the bracket, the oil pan has the studs in place, all you do is add the locknuts provided.

[rcotner]

Wow it has been forever since I posted. We moved across town to be closer to our kids and grandkids. I got a much bigger garage out of it and have started working on the car again. I am almost a year in and am finally close to getting the engine started. All that is left is to wire the battery, relay, starter and computer. A lot really for a beginner. Here are a few pics to document my progress so far:

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My new shop is 20x20 and high enough ceilings to accommodate a lift. If I make this a lifelong hobby I want a lift for sure. I really like the Lokar shift but it is pretty tall and first gear is very close to the steering wheel. I hope to have her started in a couple weeks then can move to some the non-drive train stuff.

[jayguy]

Great looking build, and I like the new space!

Is that a Laguna Seca sitting in front of your '33? I'm jealous twice!

Make that 3 times, the shop, the '33, and the Mustang. My '07 GT isn't quite as nice.

[donshapansky]

I'm getting close to start-up but for arranging my wiring harnesses, connecting the A/C electrical, finishing up the E-Brake and a bunch of other stuff. In Texas my shop A/C took a dive and I've been travelling on business so no progress for it seems 2 months. But I'm going to get in earnest late September after my next trip for vacation this time to TN Here are a couple of shots of the hornet's nest, I have not decided yet where to mount the fuse panel.3340733408

[rcotner]

Great looking build, and I like the new space!

Is that a Laguna Seca sitting in front of your '33? I'm jealous twice!

Make that 3 times, the shop, the '33, and the Mustang. My '07 GT isn't quite as nice.

Yep, that is my laguna seca. That pic was just a feeble attempt at car art. Yes, I consider myself very lucky!

[rcotner]

By the way jayguy, any mustang, especially one with GT in its name is awesome!!

[jayguy]

:cool:

[rcotner]

Time for my quarterly update. The aluminator lives! I will post the video of the first start after I figure out how to compress it to a size that is postable. It is hellatious sounding motor. I can't wait to take it for a spin. With the mechanical stuff essentially done I am on to mounting the body. It has been just over a year since I got my kit. I think that puts me roughly on schedule. I figured it would take me two years. That seems about right.

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[erlihemi]

That is freakin awesome!! congrats on the milestone.

[wallace18]

Awesome job so far!

[maczter]

Post it to youtube and send us a link!

[rcotner]

Post it to youtube and send us a link!

Good idea, here you go....

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oMkyAKJ9Duk

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1AUfNYt_fSo

[maczter]

HOLY CRAP does that sound mean! Hope to have mine running in the next week or so. Nice work!

[donshapansky]

That looks and sounds exciting, I'm getting close too although I have a lot more systems to integrate such as A/C, AODE 4R70W with electronic shift module that has be interfaced with the engine. It's great to see how it looks and sounds! I'm hoping for early in the new year after I get back from Barrett Jackson in mid January36707
Any ideas as how you are going to modify the intake? I like what I saw on the Ecoboost side mounted intake at the SEMA intro as a crate motor.

[rcotner]

Well, at this point I don't plan to change the intake. I have always intended to not install the hood and side panels. Obviously if I change my mind in the future I will need to do something though. I would like to see what you come up with!!

[donshapansky]

I managed a first start on New Years Day and it sounds great, I went with Flow Master mufflers. I had a break in the fuel power wire (harness) I didn't want to remove all the transmission covers so I made a jumper to bypass the break. I used the steel fuel lines supplied and have leaks at the flares so I'm starting over with AN fuel fittings and stainless lines. So after Barrett Jackson I'll get serious about completing the mechanical issues and start on the body.

[rcotner]

Congrats on the start. Feels good huh? My fuel system is tight but I have an oil leak at one of my AN fittings and an exhaust leak at the collector to deal with. You might want to check out my thread on alternator issues. Ford recommends a different way to route the 12v signal to the ignition terminal on the alternator. Again, congrats!!!

[donshapansky]

Thanks Ray, I had all the gauges connected on a temporary mount, the alternator works great, I'm getting 14 volts + just above idle. It was so good to get a start on the first try!

[donshapansky]

I'm at Barrett Jackson and found a couple of interesting items. Roush is developing a fuel injection system from Borla that will have the look of 8 stacks with a closed loop system not using the ECM, locking the cams in a set position they estimate $3500 - $4,000. The next item was on a Cobra with the Coyote equipped with SCJ intake they used a metal intake reversed to the right shortened to fit within the confines of the engine bay. I could envision the side mounted scoop shown on the Ecoboost '33 connected to the side panel. We'll see what I can work out. It appears K & N uses metal plenums on a few of their filter kits for the Coyote that could be used if one can buy just the metal tube portion, that would offer a mount for the Mass Air Flow Sensor, PCV intake etc.

[rcotner]

Don, that sounds pretty cool. Send pictures when you have something to show. My '33 is at a local tuner to try and get the tune right. The engine builder who sold me the Aluminator also sold me a tune (from SCT) that was supposed to be good enough to get me to a dyno. It is turning out be quite the fiasco to get the tune right. In retrospect I wish I had started with the stock coyote tune that came with the controls pack but I trusted the engine guy who has a very good reputation in the local mustang world. The tuner is going to have to build the tune from scratch to get my engine to run right. I hope you have better luck!!

[H R Lucky]

Congrats on the start. Feels good huh? My fuel system is tight but I have an oil leak at one of my AN fittings and an exhaust leak at the collector to deal with. You might want to check out my thread on alternator issues. Ford recommends a different way to route the 12v signal to the ignition terminal on the alternator. Again, congrats!!!

Ray,
What sort of problem did you have with the 12v signal to the ignition terminal on the Alternator?
I looked back in your build thread and couldn't find alternator issues.

thanks,
Nevin

[rcotner]

Nevin,

When I put the honda alternator on and ran the yellow VBAT mon wire from the engine harness to IG pin on the alternator I was not able to get any reasonable voltage increase when the engine was running (~12.3v). When I measured the VBAT wire with the engine going I essentially got 0v when I was expecting 12. After talking to a couple guys as Ford I came away with the impression that the voltage on that line is variable and controlled by the PCU. Their recommendation was to run a 12v signal off of the ignition switch which I did. I now get the requisite 14v at the battery. It seems that I am the only one to come across this problem. I really hope there is nothing wrong with the Coyote harness or other control systems.

[H R Lucky]

Thanks for the info Ray, I haven't hooked mine up yet but my Coyote harness does have a connector for the alternator, I will definitely check that when the time comes.

thanks,
Nevin

[rcotner]

Even better than go karting the frame is seeing it on a dyno!! Aluminator XS makes 406 rwhp. Should be about 20 more when finished which will put it in spec with ford racing marketing (500+ at the crank). The poor guy doing the tuning has to wear a respirator due to the fiberglass pouring out of the exhaust. This is after 3 days of tuning and multiple pulls. He is the biggest tuning shop in Portland and he says he has never seen so much glass coming from new mufflers! It is a real mess. Other than that the car runs great after a lot of tuning. Enjoy the video!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=juz6DuZzJDk&feature=youtu.be

[rcotner]

Final pull on the dyno yielded 425 wheel HP. That puts it at about 510 to 520 at the crank meeting fords 500+ spec for the motor. According to the tuner the tune is "safe". I could get more out of it by leaning out the fuel/air mix and advancing the timing but I think the term "safe" is relative here. 425 rwHP on a 2200 pound car built by a rookie is probably questionably safe :). I did the go kart thing over the weekend. No video but I gotta say driving that frame around the neighborhood was one the funnest things ever.

[donshapansky]

I have a 2013 Boss 302 that has been to Hennessey for the HPE 490 mod that has long tube headers, high flow cats, new intake filter, key fob operated cutouts for the side exhaust pipes and of course a Hennessey tune. The result was a dyno sheet that shows 494 hp at the crank and 435 hp at the rear wheels. I wonder why the variables in the numbers between your dyno results and mine. I track the car and it sure runs a lot harder than before the mod. I have video that shows me lapping an M3 BMW3813338134 in 8 laps on a 1.3 mile course then I catch a new Viper and he tries to hard to stay ahead and spins right in front of me!

[rcotner]

Don, I am guessing at the crank number based on about 20% loss through the drive train. It is entirely possible that I am over stating the crank HP. I am really hoping that the engine can safely make what ford says. Lapping an M3 in a mustang (even if it has been to Hennessey) is totally awesome! I suspect that driver skill payed a large part in that too. As you can see from my profile pic I have a 2012 LS. Maybe I will track it some day. I had a 2000 cobra that I used to take to the track. Lots of fun for sure!

[rcotner]

Managed to get the gauges moved over to the body and rewired. Mounted them to the gauge plate and put the body back on the frame. Everything still works!

3813738138

[wallace18]

Great looking dash!

[donshapansky]

Ray I have a lot of experience in the motorcycle and automotive fields after a lifetime in the tech side of both industries, my experience with the Coyote and talking to others in the industry the last thing you need to worry about is the integrity of the engine under high stress and RPM. I have watched a Z06 blow up and other push rod based engines, it's usually the result of a valve train failure. The Boss that I have has been at 7000 - 7500 for most of it's life with any hint of stress, oil consumption etc. My experience is that this engine design is well able to take a lot of high rpm without risk of a chain of events such as a pushrod/rocker failure, valve keeper dislodged. One very key thing is the mass of lack thereof in the valve train. Closed valve spring pressures are a fraction of an equivalent OHV engine the ramps of the cam are able to be made quite aggressive without the loads of a high ratio rocker arm pushrod arrangement.
Also the small bore design and relatively short stroke wears well at high RPM, cylinder wall wear is much less due the cylinder arrangement. A recent extensive article about todays ideal engine design says the ideal cylinder size is 500 cc or 30 cubic inches with a slightly under square bore/stroke arrangement, whether naturally aspirated or turbo charged. As we will see in the next generation of Coyote with a flat plane crank the rpm limit with be raised to 8000 with less counterweights on the crank, 540 hp (speculative) without a blower! This engine will live for a long time due to less heat from turbos or blowers and mess with an LS7 big time.:cool:

[rcotner]

Don, you sound a lot like an engineer :). Working in an industry and enjoying the fruits of your labor as a hobby must be great! The reason I got into this car building thing is because of my 30 years as an engineer building the processes to make chips (of the silicon variety not potato :p) I needed a more personal outlet for my love of things mechanical. The Cobra mustang I owned had been built by Sean Hyland of Shelby fame. He stroked and re-sleeved the cylinders increasing the displacement from 4.6L to something north of 5.0. The car was very fast. Unfortunately after a day at Portland International Raceway I found oil in my coolant. Somewhere along the way the cylinder sleeves slipped and dropped about half a mm. Major bummer! I have been nervous about tracking my cars since. I realize that I am naive about such things but engines are expensive to rebuild.

Thanks for the technical input. 540hp is a lot of ponies.

[donshapansky]

38498
I finally got to drive mine today, it was 70+ here in Texas and my wife was ready to be the co-pilot. Everything worked well except I had to bleed the front brakes again! The black finish is worn off the discs now and it stops a lot better, one snag is my AODE electronic module won't sense the throttle voltage in put, I proved it is going into the module but not being sensed so the upshifts are firm to say the least it's probably shifted by the governor without any modulation. So now it's time mount the body and get ready for paint.

[maczter]

That's a baddass looking plenum! Cannot wait to go-cart mine.

[rcotner]

38498
I finally got to drive mine today, it was 70+ here in Texas and my wife was ready to be the co-pilot. Everything worked well except I had to bleed the front brakes again! The black finish is worn off the discs now and it stops a lot better, one snag is my AODE electronic module won't sense the throttle voltage in put, I proved it is going into the module but not being sensed so the upshifts are firm to say the least it's probably shifted by the governor without any modulation. So now it's time mount the body and get ready for paint.

Don, that is great. I drove mine around the neighborhood last weekend. Lots of fun.

[donshapansky]

Here are some shots of Roush intakes by Borla, the new injection looks great but you can't use the Coyote ECM, you lose variable cam timing and all the features that make for nice running engine when you go with their injection. The filter intake used on their cars gave me ideas to make our large intake work, that combined with the new Eco-Boost '33 side mounted intake filter could make for a good looking fully enclosed engine bay.
38830388313883238833

[donshapansky]

In case you haven't seen the Eco-boost 33

388343883538836

Don

[rcotner]

Thanks Don. I have the high clearance bubble hood and I will keep my side panels around until you figure it out ;). Did you have any problems with your car's tune with the intake you have initially installed?

[donshapansky]

I haven't touched the tune yet, it started and burbled a bit during the first few starts, kind of a rolling idle but after a couple of drives it responds well, the burbling is gone and the idle is stable. We'll see how it works out and I may take it to a Dallas shop that is supposed to be an authority on these engines. I'm chasing to find out if the filter/scoop assembly in the Eco-Boost pictures is available and from who. I have the high clearance bubble hood as well. With the filter and intake plenum removed the hood fits.
I'm starting on hinging the doors and truck lid, have you done any fitting yet?

[rcotner]

I am just starting that too. I have sanded the doors down so they roughly fit an mocked up the hinges. I will get the hinges and brackets back from powder coat tomorrow so I will be off to the races this weekend.

[donshapansky]

Ray, I installed the door hardware to get the hinges and openings right in the body and have found that the main member with door brackets installed is not nearly deep enough to allow bolting the assembly together without several shims, which means the supplied carriage head bolts are not long enough. I was wondering if you have found the same problem?

Don

[donshapansky]

Update, well when I worked on the left side the opposite problem, the door bracket was too tall, so I swapped the door brackets and everything fit, I don't understand why but I don't have any spacers on both door frames.

[rcotner]

Hey Don, can you send me a picture of what your are talking about. I don't think I have the same problem but I am not sure from your description. I put the first full mile on my car today. Very squirrely. I am definitely have learning to do on the driving side.

38986

[donshapansky]

Ray, did you find that the left exhaust protrudes out the back more than the right? I think that there was no consideration for the left front cylinder offset. I sending the car off to the body shop for paint prep and final panel fit next week. Then dismantle to paint sometime in March.

[rcotner]

Wow, you are cruisin'. Yes, the rear exhaust is asymmetrical due to the cylinder offset. I assume there is enough slop in the joints to adjust that out. I have not done the final exhaust alignment yet.

[donshapansky]

I still have a lot of work after paint, like A/C finish up electrical, I have a real wiring bunch of snakes to deal with, windshield wipers (yes or no), interior, power windows, etc. Did you go with electric steering? I'm glad I did after driving it.

[rcotner]

Actually I didn't. I believe I can add it later if needed (I need an excuse for my wife buy me a lift :cool:). I do have power windows but no AC/heater. I will add wipers since live in western Oregon and rain is a way of life. I hope to have mine licensed by late spring and I will drive it rough for a while before I dive into body work and paint.

[BASmith]

Ray, Don,

I'm running the rear exhaust also and have a question for you two. On the passenger side the "kick-up" over the rear differential is fairly close to the rear deck tubing to mount a hanger. The drivers side is an inch or two lower; mufflers on each side being very close to level. Would you adjust drivers side up or passenger side down? I have the body stored up on some shelving in the garage and getting it down to check for clearance of the exhaust pipe tips relative to rear "roll" pan would be difficult at this time. Any thoughts on this would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Bruce

[donshapansky]

I don't have advice as yet, my go car is headed for body work, then back for me to dismantle sometime in March, then when the body goes for paint I will be working on the exhaust and many other items getting ready for final assembly.
I think I have the same issues, the right tip is higher than the left and the left is protruding out an inch or two more than the right, I don't think I can fix my problem without cutting the left side pipe after the muffler shorter first.

Don

[BASmith]

Don,

Thanks for the input. When you reach that point in your build I hope you post something about it or pm me in case I haven't finished that yet. I have sooo many other items on the car to redirect my attention to!

If anyone else out there has any thoughts on this subject I know of at least two builders interested in what you may have to say!!

Bruce

[rcotner]

Bruce,

I am about ready to do the final mount of the rear exhaust. I will take some pictures and post them. Just eyeballing them I have not noticed a difference in height.

[BASmith]

Ray,

Thanks! And thanks in advance for posting the pics!

Bruce

[rcotner]

18 months later I am on the road! Thanks to all the help from members of this forum!!

4239942400

[wallace18]

Way to go! I bet that thing is awesome fast.

[donshapansky]

Hi Ray;
Congratulations, I decided to go with the hood and side covers, the doors are fitted and trunk. I took the intake off and went back to the stock intake. Working on fitting the top now then power windows next. It looks like the rest of the summer for me I'm travelling a lot on business. Did you sell your Boss?

Don

[bbksv]

Looking pretty good man..I know it feels nice to get it on the road.

[rcotner]

Hi Ray;
Congratulations, I decided to go with the hood and side covers, the doors are fitted and trunk. I took the intake off and went back to the stock intake. Working on fitting the top now then power windows next. It looks like the rest of the summer for me I'm travelling a lot on business. Did you sell your Boss?

Don

Hey Don,

No I decided to keep my Boss. I really enjoy driving it and, in my opinion, it is the best modern mustang out there so I will keep it for now. I am moving on the hardtop and power windows too. I hope to get it in shape to ship it off to the body shop for the winter. By next summer I might even be done!

[donshapansky]

Yes, I love my Boss too, it sits in the shop and I have been taking it for breakfast runs before my day starts on the '33. It's been raining in Texas for about 2 months and all of our lakes are back up in north Texas. I think the south is pretty well fixed up, some major flooding as well, the old guys who have lived here a lifetime say most droughts end in a flood. We set new records in May for most rain in a month. Needless to time at the track has been nil as every weekend has been rained out but no one is complaining! But June 1st rolled around and the no more rain for several days and none in the forecast.

[rcotner]

Just crossed the first 100 miles. Moving on to the sound deadening, power windows... Hope to get it to the body and paint guy this fall.

43543

[donshapansky]

Hi Ray:
Well after several months of waiting and 200 hours of body work I should get my car back from my local body shop. I'm sure glad I decided to let the experts do the fitting and mounting or doors, hood, side panels etc. I managed to get the all the engine covers on and keep the SCJ intake, however the hood does not clear the intake without mods. I shoot some pictures when I pick it up next week. We had a lot issues with fitting panels to each other, it seems things warp and shift over time. Once I get the power windows roughed in it's time for paint.4551545516 Here are a couple of shots leaving for the body shop in March!