SixStarCars' 818S Build Thread

[SixStar]

We will be covering the building of FFR 818S #80 for Charles in St. Louis

Goal:
To build an 818S from one donor as close to the manual as possible while sticking to our client's budget.

Donor:
Our car was purchased through COPart in Denver. Didn't look too bad from the pictures, come to find out....

Not bad right?
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Actually kind of nice!!!
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Oh snap!! Literally. We knew about this though so no surprises there.
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Timing gears sitting on top of the engine never a good sign.
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Not even hit that hard in the front, there was some protrusion into the engine bay that hit the side, very odd. But strange things happen in accidents. A word of caution. This engine will need several parts and a bit of work before it can be tested out, as always with crashed cars BUYER BEWARE!!!
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Right rear is tossed
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Won't be using that mount, or dynoing the car, bummer.
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Subframe wasted
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Banana!
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[longislandwrx]

Craigslist be like, "needs alignment"

[07FIREBLADE]

Craigslist be like, "that will buff right out"

[SixStar]

"Custom rear end"

[Xusia]

Thanks, guys. Those posts just made my day! :D

[Quiny]

So what did you see behind the dash to know that they flashed the ECU with a Cobb? I have Cobb tuning stickers all over my donor so I assume the same. I haven't looked into it yet but I will want to return it to stock, I hope it can be done with Opensource. I may tune it from there but I always like to start from stock.

[longislandwrx]

The cables near the green test mode connectors were probably pulled down out of the bunch to where they are easy to access, (you need to connect an initialization coupler) indicating that the car had been fiddled with.

[SixStar]

^ Yep. Can't say for sure but knowing what I know it's clear it's been fiddled with.

[DurangoRon]

Unless I missed it, who are you using for shipping? That $857 to Greeley is a great price.

[SixStar]

Unless I missed it, who are you using for shipping? That $857 to Greeley is a great price.

We went through uship.com, it's a bidding site for LTL. I'll get the name of the actual shipper as soon as I can for everyone. That's each car plus crates. So $3114 total. A few hundred off "the other guys" price and they SHOULDN'T get damaged which was our main concern.

[SixStar]

UPDATE 1: 11/18/13

Tore into the donor today, looks like we have some bent valves on one of the heads, codes lean toward #4 which is interesting since that wasn't the side that was hit. But I have seen this before, the gears that explode generally end up slamming the valves shut and saving them.

Major parts out of the way:
http://i.imgur.com/nyjsiHC.jpg

Your cam gears should NOT look like this!
http://i.imgur.com/VKA7o6z.jpg

Belt on and she runs, but rough. Instant #4 misfire code.
http://i.imgur.com/wpGXwfX.jpg

[BrandonDrums]

UPDATE 1: 11/18/13

Tore into the donor today, looks like we have some bent valves on one of the heads, codes lean toward #4 which is interesting since that wasn't the side that was hit. But I have seen this before, the gears that explode generally end up slamming the valves shut and saving them.

Major parts out of the way:
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Your cam gears should NOT look like this!
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Belt on and she runs, but rough. Instant #4 misfire code.
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Ahh pooey, those image links arent working....I wanna see!

[Frank818]

Nope, not working. :(

[SixStar]

Not sure why it amended and killed the links, sorry. They're fixed now. I'm only allowed 10 pictures per thread.... even hosted on imgur, seems silly.

[longislandwrx]

Do you guys do any work with Flat Iron?

[SixStar]

Do you guys do any work with Flat Iron?

We have an account there, Preston is the man!! Also we work closely with Dwight and Peter at SCR who build the motors for Flatiron.

Colorado can be very small when you've been doing the same thing for 18 years!

[SixStar]

Looks like both our cars SHOULD be picked up today which means a possible delivery Monday. Stay tuned.

[SixStar]

If it's not one thing it's another. The estimated 11/23 completion date came and went. By the time the cars were done it was the holiday and the freight company tried to pick them up Friday but FFR was closed (rightfully so, I was as well). Driver had better things to do yesterday I suppose, tried today and since they didn't call ahead the cars weren't in the crates ready to go.

Frustrated.

[Frank818]

Ha man. :( Such bad luck.

[SixStar]

Got some more goodies for our 818 build - http://i.imgur.com/CS3ajRS.jpg

Bad news, I won't be flying to PRI tomorrow as I had to have my appendix removed yesterday... good news I will be able to be at the shop Thursday for the delivery of our 818s! How's that for a silver lining?

[crossbarphoto]

Hey SixStar...when you get cars and get started on the project would there be any way me and my build partner could stop on by and check out the cars and see how things are going and just chat in general about the build process, donor acquisition, etc?

Thanks

Johnstown, CO

[SixStar]

Hey SixStar...when you get cars and get started on the project would there be any way me and my build partner could stop on by and check out the cars and see how things are going and just chat in general about the build process, donor acquisition, etc?

Thanks

Johnstown, CO

Yes of course. It'll be slow going for the next two weeks while I recover, but you're welcome to come by anytime and check them out.

Once I'm done with the chassis mods on both they'll be off to coating, should be gone a week or so. After that they'll live at the shop.

[crossbarphoto]

I was thinking about seeing the delivery, but that probably won't be all that exciting. A couple weeks might be best. I'll keep following this thread to see how things are progressing. We put our order in a few weeks ago so we have time, but there is LOTS to do between now and then. Hope you heal quickly.

Thanks!

[SixStar]

Two large wooden boxes and my Cat 40. Pretty boring. :D

We'll have a bunch of unpacking photos and maybe a short write up on how it all went.

[longislandwrx]

Why did you decide to get the crate? Short on firewood? ;)

I thought Aloha had said that even with the crate a few parts were scuffed/chipped. Do you think it was worth 700 each?

[SixStar]

Why did you decide to get the crate? Short on firewood? ;)

I thought Aloha had said that even with the crate a few parts were scuffed/chipped. Do you think it was worth 700 each?

Without getting into specifics, another build was delayed after Stewart damaged some parts and caused some other hardships for the customer. Until he's willing to come forward about his experience that's all I will say.

Armed with that information we chose to use anyone BUT Stewart and the $1400 was our way of adding a little extra safety to our delicate and expensive cargo. I'll know tomorrow if there is any damage.

[SixStar]

Todd got into the donor a bit more this past weekend

Seats and some interior stuff:
http://i.imgur.com/Acw89dH.jpg

Cars get very large when you take them apart:
http://i.imgur.com/YLMat4P.jpg

Barf:
http://i.imgur.com/uH2GuhY.jpg

More barf, glad the electrical engineer is in charge of our wiring!
http://i.imgur.com/B8ys6cR.jpg

Cars should be here by 3pm today. Lots more pictures to come. Also check out our Facebook page @ facebook.com/sixstarcars818

[SixStar]

Well the cars FINALLY showed up tonight. Nothing too exciting, just uncrating the R and disassembly. Inventory tomorrow and uncrating the S.

High res album - 27 pictures - http://imgur.com/a/GAFy9#0

[Evan78]

We went through uship.com, it's a bidding site for LTL. I'll get the name of the actual shipper as soon as I can for everyone.Did you ever get a chance to get the name of the shipping company?

[SixStar]

It left FFR on Cap Cod (or something similar) it's at the shop. I'll be there later today.

I can tell you this, the last leg was UPS and what a bunch of useless morons. They showed up Wednesday, I wasn't there since I had only been out of the hospital about 30 hours, one phone call and I could have had someone there in 45 minutes. Instead they chose to turn around and go back to Denver and mark it "refused". They didn't even try Thursday, I was there all day waiting. Then yesterday morning they said it would be Monday, Todd called and chewed them out and they 'found' a truck to bring them up. I'm not sure what they loaded them with but they pushed both crates all the way forward and had zero dollies on the truck. We ended up having to drill holes in the crate and mounting a tow hook, from our NASA TT car, to the actual crate and pulling them to the back with the Cat so that I could get under them. How they thought we'd get them off I'll never know.

The 818R was in great shape, minimal scuffs on the panels, the hood took a little damage being upside down in the cockpit of the car with a few more parts piled on top of it but nothing that won't be covered by the livery wrap. In all I was VERY impressed with the packing job. Wait till you see what we have planned for the crate, can't let all that well engineered lumber go to waste!

[SixStar]

Made it about 90% through inventory of the 818R today. Missing a few key items, won't be able to make it a roller as soon as I wanted, oh well.

Back to work on the S tomorrow. Our photographer will be there to take a bunch of unpacking pictures for the site. Is there anything anyone is curious about receiving your 818 that hasn't been covered yet?

[SixStar]

S is unpacked and inventoried. Got started on the R, first part, doesn't fit. This better not be a sign of things to come :rolleyes:

Had to ream the holes for the UCAs to get the bolts to go in. Still looking for the spacers (.821) for "track only", got tired, called it. Three nights in a row of 818 is too much for me right now.

Should have the R rolling tomorrow then I can get it off the lift, get the S on the lift and stripped down to head to paint. No frame modifications on the S we decided.

[SixStar]

Holy delayed update Batman!!!!

We're back hard at work on the #80 818S. Slight changes to the donor used, we went with a 2.5RS for the suspension and steering column as well as some other bits. Ran into a slight issue with the 2.5RS clutch master, it will not work on the 818.

Here you can see that with the RS resi the cap comes into direct contact with the frame before you ever bolt it on
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You can see the differance between the WRX and RS resi
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Easy fix, just use a WRX resi with your RS donor and move forward!
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Here are some more pictures of the build. On to mounting the seats, doors, and hanging the body. Ignore the mismatched rear LCAs - they're temporary!

http://imgur.com/a/WYzNk#0

#80 is a roller! And despite our difficulties in figuring out the seat brackets you can sit in the car and make vroom vroom noises now too!!

My take on the seat bracket instructions:

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[SixStar]

3/11 update - 1/4s are mounted and aligned. Doors are being hung and mirrors mounted. Hoping to have everything south of the front firewall mounted up by the end of the say.

http://imgur.com/a/6WgPc#0

[SixStar]

Nate and I have been HARD at work getting #80 together. We focused on getting the body mounted and squared up, doors and mirrors hung and functional and I'm pleased to announce we have what LOOKS like a Factory Five 818S finally!!!

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[longislandwrx]

very
nice.

[Goldwing]

It's so easy to enjoy those steps of the build that result in a huge visual impact.

[Brando]

My take on the seat bracket instructions:

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That is hilarious

It still would be an improvement over R specific directions

[SixStar]

MOAR pictures - now with more poke.

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Working on getting the headlights and tail lights installed to complete the look of the car.

[SixStar]

That is hilarious

It still would be an improvement over R specific directions

We've been building off the 1G manual. I just got the 1F supplement from a fellow builder and it's clearer but we only received 3 seat brackets so we still can't put the passenger seat in.

The R.... well lets just say I'm glad I have an experience hot rod builder helping me. Body mounting on that car is next. Everything needs to be removeable so we're going to have a few extra boxes of rivets and I have a rather large order of Dzus and Moroso fasteners coming from Summit.

[Canadian818]

What wheels are those?

[SixStar]

What wheels are those?

Tires & Wheels:

The larger ones are - 295/30-18 Hoosier R6 on 18"x10.5" Custom CCW C14s

And the "smaller" ones are - 245/40-17 Hoosier A6 on 17"x9" Enkei RPF1

[SixStar]

Great news! Car #80 has a client and will be built to his specifications over the next 10 weeks.

The kit will be built pretty much by the book with a few Six Star Cars touches here and there. Paint, wheels, interior and brakes will be left to the customer.

It will be getting a rebuilt EJ20 engine, rebuilt TD04L turbo, rebuilt transmission with a Quaife LSD. We will also be installing the FFR soft top when it becomes available. Stay tuned as we will be continually updating this build thread to follow the progress and highlight any issues or parts availability delays we encounter.

[Kurk818]

Do you have 295's up front as well? Any issues with turning radius and sway bar/sheetmetal?

With the 295's in the rear, did you end up getting an offset trailing arm or just get offset to push out? Plans to modify the wheel arches and/or flares?


Tires & Wheels:

The larger ones are - 295/30-18 Hoosier R6 on 18"x10.5" Custom CCW C14s

And the "smaller" ones are - 245/40-17 Hoosier A6 on 17"x9" Enkei RPF1

[SixStar]

No, 275s up front on 17x9s.

They're just for looks at this point, an 818 with factory WRX arms and bushings won't even allow the stock 205/55-16s to turn lock to lock without contacting the sheet metal.

The rear arms on the car are stock, we have 10mm spacers behind the wheels and they're the correct offset to clear. No plans to modify the body work.

[metalmaker12]

I have stock arms(aluminum 06) and I have 17x8 215/40/ tires and it barely touches on the drivers side at full left lock. It's not bad enough to even really worry about and a simple bump stop will work.

[SixStar]

The increased caster of the aluminum arms helps a ton. Pile some offset bushings and the proper offset wheels on that and there shouldn't be any issues.

[SixStar]

Some pictures of #80 - she saw the Colorado sun for the first time today!

http://i.imgur.com/sNqANz5.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/9qKpk3U.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/2vvXxZ7.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/0THqlG6.jpg

And the super exciting cling wrapped short block, ha ha

http://i.imgur.com/KonaekZ.jpg

[SixStar]

With the chassis and small parts off to paint we're focusing on cleaning up and cutting out the panels for kit #80. Here's some of what we've done so far

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[SixStar]

We spend a day last week and most of yesterday de-powering and building racks. Turned out like I'd have hoped, a few snags on the 06-07 rack, not sure if we're going to use it for the R now.
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But onto the progress on #80!

Frame is back from paint and it looks amazing! They really do a fantastic job on everything we bring them. We will be picking up all the small parts later in the week, lots to do on the frame before we need all the other bits.

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Thanks for checking in! Keith

[SixStar]

Lots done today. Throttle pedal mounted (it hits the pedal box though.... more on this later) Cable mounted (sort of, instructions are muddy at best), front and rear suspension is on. Still debating the spring rates, not sure if the manual has a typo or not and the jury is still out according to another thread on here. Firewall is on, tank is in, column is in. Engine and transmission should be together this week and dropped in ASAP so we can get onto wiring, fuel, and coolant connections.

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[SixStar]

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[Frank818]

Nice pictures, tnx.

[longislandwrx]

My throttle goes full right before hitting the box... I put a meter on it, you should be fine.

[SixStar]

My throttle goes full right before hitting the box... I put a meter on it, you should be fine.

Perfect! Thanks!

It's one of those, "should we fix this now or hope it works later" things. Glad to know it's a non-issue. Moving forward!

[SixStar]

Long delay in the build. Two big races this past weekend in Lincoln, Nebraska with another this weekend means lots of race cars in and out of the shop! But here's some progress on the rebuilt engine and transmission.

Engine is an EJ20. Bottom end is fresh from the builder with OEM rings, ACL Race main and rod bearings. Gaskets are all OEM. Heads are machined locally and rebuilt by yours truly. I actually really enjoy assembling heads and engines, it's a zen thing for me. As for setting lash.... there's a special place in hell for the person who invented the shim bucket.

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Our transmission builder is one of the best in the state and does a great job on everything we give him. This is the 5MT from the donor car and has been gone through, inspected, cleaned, any worn parts replace/exchanged. While he was in there he threw in a Quaife from Erik at The Race Line.

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I will try and get more done and posted this week but we're only here for another two days then it's off to Heartland Park in Topeka, Kansas.

[SixStar]

Found some time to get a bit further on the build. Brakes are done and work very very well even just rolling around the shop.

Cooling lines are almost done. Once the engine and transmission is installed the clutch system can be buttoned up and bled. Run the wiring harness and she SHOULD be ready to start.

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We're full blast into the racing season so I'm having to find time for that, keeping the shop running, installing the new AWD dyno, and building #80 and #85. Both my employees quit too so it's just insane the amount of work that's getting done by ONE MAN! :D

Car WILL be running and driving by the 20th and will be on display at PPIR for the SCCA Match Tour all weekend. I urge anyone local to come by and take a gander.

[SixStar]

Found some time today to button up the engine. Waiting on one silly little gasket before I call it done and bolt the transmission on. Then she's stabbed!

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[metalmaker12]

Long delay in the build. Two big races this past weekend in Lincoln, Nebraska with another this weekend means lots of race cars in and out of the shop! But here's some progress on the rebuilt engine and transmission.

Engine is an EJ20. Bottom end is fresh from the builder with OEM rings, ACL Race main and rod bearings. Gaskets are all OEM. Heads are machined locally and rebuilt by yours truly. I actually really enjoy assembling heads and engines, it's a zen thing for me. As for setting lash.... there's a special place in hell for the person who invented the shim bucket.

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Our transmission builder is one of the best in the state and does a great job on everything we give him. This is the 5MT from the donor car and has been gone through, inspected, cleaned, any worn parts replace/exchanged. While he was in there he threw in a Quaife from Erik at The Race Line.

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I will try and get more done and posted this week but we're only here for another two days then it's off to Heartland Park in Topeka, Kansas.

Feel you on the shim bucket

[Frank818]

You don't seem to use 0 Decibel's front rad supports and obviously not OEM's. Your own?

Also I'd like some close up pix of your front LCAs' rear bushing installation, the one with the double tabs closer to the FW. I'd like to see if you moded the chassis holes, tabs holes, both or none. :) tnx

[SixStar]

You won't find us spending money on all the trinkets people have been making for these cars. It's a blessing and a curse of the forums, lots of neat ideas coupled with lots of folk trying to make a buck. Nothing wrong with it, just not what we're about. Yeah the stock tabs simply will not work the way FFR wants them too, the rad sits too high. These were hand made from some 1" aluminum strap, pretty simple. There are a lot of little tweaks on this car to make it safer, prettier, and easier to work on. Good eye by the way.

There was no modification to this frame for the LCAs. Just flipped the bushings left right and TQ'd the nuts on with the arm and the bushing flat on the ground.



You don't seem to use 0 Decibel's front rad supports and obviously not OEM's. Your own?

Also I'd like some close up pix of your front LCAs' rear bushing installation, the one with the double tabs closer to the FW. I'd like to see if you moded the chassis holes, tabs holes, both or none. :) tnx

[Jaime]

As for setting lash.... there's a special place in hell for the person who invented the shim bucket.
I don't get Subaru here. I heard that they went to shim buckets to save weight, but a shim-under-bucket design is exactly the same weight but is a thousand times easier to deal with. You end up with one set of shims for everything the manufacturer makes, are really cheap, and you can keep a full collection in a small plastic box. It's also really easy to verify the size of pill-shaped shim than these stupid buckets.

[SixStar]

It gets better. They had a roller rocker head that kicked *** and was scrapped before it ever came to America.

[Jaime]

I know you were talking about rocker vs cam-on-tappet. But, there are some real advantages to eliminating rockers - more freedom in choosing valve angle and less mass come to mind immediately. What bothers me is that their design is the least user-friendly version of cam-on-tappet I have ever seen.

[SixStar]

Master wiring tech Tommy is here this week making the harness for the 818S. He's going through it plug by plug and wire by wire because we're going to start offering fully built OEM harnesses for the 818 for those that want to keep the factory ECU and OBD2 port for use later with a Cobb/ViPec/ECUTek/AEM etc. We're so close to this running and driving it's exciting!!! Goal is to have it in "go kart" mode for the big race next weekend.

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[icky]

Goal is to have it in "go kart" mode for the big race next weekend.

when and where?

[SixStar]

when and where?

http://www.scca.com/events/index.cfm?eid=7002

Car won't be raced. I'll be in a 2014 Ford Focus ST. There will be some fun runs at the end of each day and I plan on taking it around a few times if Tech passes it.

[SixStar]

It's alive!
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We had some people from NASIOC in here today doing a short write up and shoot on Six Star Cars and the 818 kits. It was GREAT timing, we were starting the car for the first time right as they got here.

As expected all the fuel system that's missing has turned on the CEL and we expect more codes as it's driven. Only solution I see is a Taxtrics and a tune. Not a huge deal, just not something that was planned. We do have a few minor issues but I'm going to start another thread on that. In the mean time we're buttoning up some wiring and grounds to get the panels all mounted and work on the shifter next. Goal is still to have the car running and driving by noon on Thursday.

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[Frank818]

I never realized the shifter cables were going all around from the left side, I thought they were channeling out from the center tunnel and above the fuel tank. Well, on the K-Tuned shifter the cables are coming out from the back of the shifter, but I think they are coming from the front on the FFR shifter?

[Mechie3]

Yes. The K tuned has the front/back cable mechanism reversed. If the FFR goes front/back you'll invert your shift pattern.

[SixStar]

Still not sure why an MR2 shifter wasn't used. But this works and I'm sure it was cost or parts availability.

[wleehendrick]

If the FFR goes front/back you'll invert your shift pattern.

That would make a good theft-deterrent if you could get used to driving it.

[CptTripps]

Still not sure why an MR2 shifter wasn't used. But this works and I'm sure it was cost or parts availability.

That's what I have for my build. $25 for the shifter on eBay and it's already set up with a much shorter throw, and the pattern will be right.

Used one in my 914 and it's pretty brilliant.

[SixStar]

First test drive went great. Car runs amazing. Took it easy since it's all brand new. We're going to break it in on the dyno here later today.

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[Frank818]

I have a measurement question, if you will. How high above the cross v-bar the IC sits? I mean the top of the IC is how much higher than the V-bar in front of the IC?

[SixStar]

Well.... of course since everything was going so well there had to be some sort of issue. Once the coolant bleed issue was solved we ran the car through a heat cycle, then another, then a short test drive around the block. Racked the car and changed the oil. When we cut the filter open there was some metal in the filter. Rather than run the risk of damaging the entirely new engine and turbo we will be removing the engine and replacing it entirely. If all goes to plan this time next week it will be up and running again and ready for break-in and shakedown.

Setbacks suck but they happen.

[SixStar]

I have a measurement question, if you will. How high above the cross v-bar the IC sits? I mean the top of the IC is how much higher than the V-bar in front of the IC?

Maybe 1/2". I'll check tomorrow.

[Mechie3]

Still not sure why an MR2 shifter wasn't used. But this works and I'm sure it was cost or parts availability.

Cost and availability. Mr2 spyder shifters dont work. Only the older mr2 ones.

[Doowop]

I was planning on going the MR2 route. Mechie, can you specify which MR2 shifter would and would not work and why? Thanks

[Frank818]

Maybe 1/2". I'll check tomorrow.

So little? On the pic it looks like a good 2", but that's actually why I asked. :)
I must admit that measure is a pretty important one for my specific build, I spent many mins looking at your pix, which are helping a lot understand and brainstorm on stuff, btw.

[CptTripps]

I was planning on going the MR2 route. Mechie, can you specify which MR2 shifter would and would not work and why? Thanks

The Spyder shifters are plastic and a higher profile. The older ones are metal and very low profile.

Here are a few links to what you want...

MR2 Shifter 1 (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5574629015&toolid=10001&campid=5337493111&customid=mr2-shifter&icep_item=171023349929&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg)

MR2 Shifter 2 (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5574629015&toolid=10001&campid=5337493111&customid=mr2-shifter&icep_item=160874065229&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg)

I've bought my last 2-3 on eBay for under $50. There are deals out there if you are patient. The rust always cleans up with a scrub-brush and a fresh coat of paint. Easy to work on. You DO NOT need one of the short-shift kits. Those are likely for the Spyder shifters to make them feel more like the gen-1 shifter I'm talking about.

[Mechie3]

I was planning on going the MR2 route. Mechie, can you specify which MR2 shifter would and would not work and why? Thanks

The stock Subaru lever has a bottom pivot with the linkage attached at the middle. Pushing forward pushes the linkage forward.
The FFR lever has a middle pivot and a bottom attached cable. Pushing forward (on the lever) pulls the cable backwards (opposite).
The early MR2 metal shifter has the same bottom pivot and center mounted cable.

[SixStar]

Great news! The new engine is installed and running amazing. I was able to take her for a short spin and then strap it down to our Dyno Dynamics chassis dyno for some break in miles.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FWUM6oticWg&feature=youtu.be

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And of course after it's been tested, broken in, inspected, inspected again, there's only one thing to do...... a pull!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m4vDAsmyLvY&feature=youtu.be

Made about 211whp and 210tqs
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[Frank818]

16 up to 4k and then 14.5? You ran a WOT with that?

Besides, great build. But tell me, on your driving vid, when you first hit a little more on it in I think 1st, did it spin? I can hardly hear the engine on the video.

[Scargo]

...Made about 211whp and 210tqs...That's a Subaru motor? That's 9.5:1 P/W ratio at best. Barely "sporty". Yawn.

[SixStar]

.............

[SixStar]

That's a Subaru motor? That's 9.5:1 P/W ratio at best. Barely "sporty". Yawn.

Agreed. It's super boring to drive.

My WRX makes about this much power and weighs twice as much, way more fun! :rolleyes:

[Frank818]

Do you have more than one exhaust configuration to test and you'll take the one you like most?

[Frank818]

Ran into a slight issue with the 2.5RS clutch master, it will not work on the 818.

Here you can see that with the RS resi the cap comes into direct contact with the frame before you ever bolt it on
26768

You can see the differance between the WRX and RS resi
26769

Easy fix, just use a WRX resi with your RS donor and move forward!
26770

Just so people know when they read the thread, the same prob exists with 2003 2.5TS donor. In fact, all the models with that reservoir will hit the frame.
I ended up buying a WRX master cylinder, yes.

[SixStar]

Do you have more than one exhaust configuration to test and you'll take the one you like most?

No, we have the V-band aluminum and stainless 3" we built for the R, I just REALLY want to hear it! Oh and see if it makes more power too (it will).

I'm hoping to take some more video of this car so the client can decide if he would like us to make a muffled system or if he will be happy with the sound. Personally I think it sounds glorious, but I also run 3" TBE on my WRX that dumps before the rear wheels!

Also, good catch on the TS. Pretty much any NA master won't fit AFAIK.

[RM1SepEx]

211 and 210 stock in RWD with FFR exhaust, no tuning yet.

I'm thinking with my Cobb, a 3 inch exhaust and stage 2 tune I'll be in great shape!

[Scargo]

Agreed. It's super boring to drive.

My WRX makes about this much power and weighs twice as much, way more fun! :rolleyes: It's just that my STi is 7.5 and heading to 7. Do you have a goal for the street version?

[SixStar]

It's just that my STi is 7.5 and heading to 7. Do you have a goal for the street version?

This is a customer car. This is the goal.

It needs to run smooth and preform predictably. No point in building a 450whp monster that can't be driven. 212 is MORE than enough IMO. He will be very happy.

[char]

Customer here. My original request was to keep the performance around stock levels, I'm hoping I can avoid blowing the engine or transmission up before I learn how to fix it. I've got a big list of things that I would like to do with this car when I have it, more power and torques on the list. On the muffler point, while I do like the sound of the engine without muffler, I suspect that it would get old on long trips.

[sponaugle]

16 up to 4k and then 14.5? You ran a WOT with that?

Besides, great build. But tell me, on your driving vid, when you first hit a little more on it in I think 1st, did it spin? I can hardly hear the engine on the video.

I was thinking the exact same thing! Something is wrong or off on that graph. A stock WRX tune would be the exact opposite of that.. very very rich with AFRs in the mid to high 10s under boost. 14:1 AFR under boost would be a ticking time bomb, especially in a WRX where the knock correction turns off at high rpm. What was the DAM at the start of the pull (16?) Did you extend the knock correction range to redline? Without that on the first gen WRX ecus active knock correction will turn off even mid knock once you pass that threshold. Those WRX rods will bend very very quickly with knock.

Graph scaled incorrectly?

Jeff

[SixStar]

...

[Frank818]

What you're saying is that many people add more air but don't add more of its counterpart (fuel)?

[SixStar]

What you're saying is that many people add more air but don't add more of its counterpart (fuel)?

Seems simple enough doesn't it?

The biggest issue is that all intakes (aside from the COBB) aren't tuned the same as the factory box. This causes the MAF values to be off which means the tune is off.

[metalmaker12]

Seems simple enough doesn't it?

The biggest issue is that all intakes (aside from the COBB) aren't tuned the same as the factory box. This causes the MAF values to be off which means the tune is off.


Yeah the Cobb seems to work correctly from my travels, although I have seen spt intakes work ok with some extra tuning. I use a cobb

[Scargo]

I wouldn't mind some educating if one of you know something I don't. I leapt straight into the AP and Cobb CAI and Cobb down-pipe without passing GO. I found that it was very rich, which my tuner EFI Logics, said was typical. My impression, or understanding if you will, is that a free-flow air filter and CAIs would be within the car's ECM range of handling and that with knock sensors and all, it would degrade the timing to compensate. Am I wrong? I know it can only do so much, especially if you want to run crap gas.

[SixStar]

.....

[Brando]

honestly IMO anything over 300 in these cars is dangerous.
I'm at 284 WHP on R6's and it feels rock solid. I honestly wouldn't mind a few more ponies. On the right tires my guess is mid to upper 300's before the car becomes unmanageable.

[Frank818]

heavy and hard late RPM boost in a MR car is dangerous, honestly IMO anything over 300 in these cars is dangerous.

The Agera One:1 with 1360hp for 1360kg (huge drool on the floor) is dangerous? As well as the superb Hennessey Venom GT? Or a GTM with 450hp? Or do you mean "specifically" on the 818 over 300 is dangerous?
What I mean by that, is are you saying on any MR car over... oh wait, I got it, you meant that "heavy and hard late RPM boost" on any MR is bad and for the 818, you think heavy-hard-late at 300+ is dangerous. Did I understand correctly?

So then, can you define "heavy", "hard" and "late". :) Sorry to ask this, I'd just like some more precisions as I want to know where I stand in that definition. It's a very interesting subject for me.

[Scargo]

...What I mean by that, is are you saying on any MR car over... oh wait, I got it, you meant that "heavy and hard late RPM boost" on any MR is bad and for the 818, you think heavy-hard-late at 300+ is dangerous. Did I understand correctly?

So then, can you define "heavy", "hard" and "late". :) ...
I have to ask what "MR" stands for? :confused:
Mid-engined cars abound with 5 to 6 P/Wt ratios. I'm sure you would be getting into some big tires that require fender flares, but so what?
By "heavy and hard late RPM boost" I think he means the point at which torque "come on" and how aggressively that ramp-up in torque occurs. For example, I was told about a first-hand experience with a racing STi which had an inappropriately big turbo in it and when boost finally came up it was sudden and capable of breaking loose all four wheels. You don't want that surprise when you are exiting a turn and trying to put some power down.

And to Six-Ster, I guess I expect everyone to know that I race an STi and haven't started my R build yet. It just sits there while I complete a bunch of mods to the STi, like close-ratio gears, OS Giken LSDs and big, twin-scroll turbo. I am crossing my fingers that the BW 8374 won't come on heavy, hard and late. It is twin-scroll (a plus) and I am running the small, .92 A/R turbine housing. I'm going to limit it to 100 octane and 25 PSI boost. From MatchBot it appears I can have 400 FPT by 3,800 and then between 3,800 and 4,000 RPM it could jump as much as 100 FPT, which sounds like a possible Oh shi..! moment. So I will taper back the boost for a few hundred RPM so it is more incremental in its rise to 521 FPT @ 4,500 as shown in these MatchBot forms.
Low RPM range (http://www.3k-warner.de//aftermarket/matchbot/index.html#version=1.3&displacement=2.5&CID=152.55&altitude=350&baro=14.563&aat=75&turboconfig=1&compressor=83s75&pt1_rpm=3450&pt1_ve=90&pt1_boost=13&pt1_ie=90&pt1_filres=0.2&pt1_ipd=0.2&pt1_mbp=0&pt1_ce=71&pt1_te=81.8&pt1_egt=1600&pt1_ter=1.51&pt1_pw=25.48&pt1_bsfc=0.43&pt1_afr=10.5&pt1_wts=300&pt1_wd=83&pt1_wd2=74&pt1_wrsin=69033&pt2_rpm=3500&pt2_ve=95&pt2_boost=14&pt2_ie=90&pt2_filres=0.2&pt2_ipd=0.2&pt2_mbp=0&pt2_ce=65&pt2_te=81.7&pt2_egt=1600&pt2_ter=1.63&pt2_pw=26.44&pt2_bsfc=0.45&pt2_afr=10.6&pt2_wts=320&pt2_wd=83&pt2_wd2=74&pt2_wrsin=73635&pt3_rpm=3600&pt3_ve=95&pt3_boost=17&pt3_ie=86&pt3_filres=0.2&pt3_ipd=0.3&pt3_mbp=0&pt3_ce=71.5&pt3_te=81.6&pt3_egt=1600&pt3_ter=1.71&pt3_pw=28.5&pt3_bsfc=0.48&pt3_afr=10.7&pt3_wts=340&pt3_wd=83&pt3_wd2=74&pt3_wrsin=78238&pt4_rpm=3650&pt4_ve=95&pt4_boost=17.5&pt4_ie=85&pt4_filres=0.3&pt4_ipd=0.4&pt4_mbp=0&pt4_ce=71&pt4_te=81.5&pt4_egt=1650&pt4_ter=1.7&pt4_pw=26.26&pt4_bsfc=0.48&pt4_afr=10.8&pt4_wts=368&pt4_wd=83&pt4_wd2=74&pt4_wrsin=84681&pt5_rpm=3700&pt5_ve=95&pt5_boost=18.5&pt5_ie=85&pt5_filres=0.4&pt5_ipd=0.4&pt5_mbp=0&pt5_ce=67.5&pt5_te=81.4&pt5_egt=1650&pt5_ter=1.75&pt5_pw=4.91&pt5_bsfc=0.49&pt5_afr=10.8&pt5_wts=400&pt5_wd=83&pt5_wd2=74&pt5_wrsin=92044&pt6_rpm=3800&pt6_ve=97&pt6_boost=19&pt6_ie=85&pt6_filres=0.5&pt6_ipd=1&pt6_mbp=0&pt6_ce=69.5&pt6_te=81.5&pt6_egt=1650&pt6_ter=1.81&pt6_pw=24.92&pt6_bsfc=0.5&pt6_afr=10.8&pt6_wts=400&pt6_wd=83&pt6_wd2=74&pt6_wrsin=92044&)
High RPM range (http://www.3k-warner.de//aftermarket/matchbot/index.html#version=1.3&displacement=2.5&CID=152.55&altitude=300&baro=14.584&aat=75&turboconfig=1&compressor=83s75&pt1_rpm=4000&pt1_ve=98&pt1_boost=20&pt1_ie=85&pt1_filres=0&pt1_ipd=1&pt1_mbp=0&pt1_ce=69&pt1_te=81.2&pt1_egt=1600&pt1_ter=1.94&pt1_pw=30.44&pt1_bsfc=0.47&pt1_afr=10.8&pt1_wts=300&pt1_wd=83&pt1_wd2=74&pt1_wrsin=69033&pt2_rpm=4500&pt2_ve=100&pt2_boost=24&pt2_ie=84.5&pt2_filres=0.1&pt2_ipd=1.2&pt2_mbp=0.05&pt2_ce=73&pt2_te=80.6&pt2_egt=1600&pt2_ter=2.01&pt2_pw=25.13&pt2_bsfc=0.45&pt2_afr=10.8&pt2_wts=320&pt2_wd=83&pt2_wd2=74&pt2_wrsin=73635&pt3_rpm=5000&pt3_ve=100&pt3_boost=25&pt3_ie=84&pt3_filres=0.12&pt3_ipd=1.3&pt3_mbp=0.1&pt3_ce=75.5&pt3_te=80&pt3_egt=1650&pt3_ter=2.07&pt3_pw=31.14&pt3_bsfc=0.5&pt3_afr=10.8&pt3_wts=340&pt3_wd=83&pt3_wd2=74&pt3_wrsin=78238&pt4_rpm=5500&pt4_ve=100&pt4_boost=25&pt4_ie=83.5&pt4_filres=0.15&pt4_ipd=1.4&pt4_mbp=0.5&pt4_ce=76.6&pt4_te=79.5&pt4_egt=1650&pt4_ter=2.12&pt4_pw=33.34&pt4_bsfc=0.5&pt4_afr=10.8&pt4_wts=368&pt4_wd=83&pt4_wd2=74&pt4_wrsin=84681&pt5_rpm=6000&pt5_ve=100&pt5_boost=24.8&pt5_ie=83&pt5_filres=0.18&pt5_ipd=1.5&pt5_mbp=0.7&pt5_ce=77&pt5_te=79&pt5_egt=1650&pt5_ter=2.19&pt5_pw=35.7&pt5_bsfc=0.5&pt5_afr=11&pt5_wts=400&pt5_wd=83&pt5_wd2=74&pt5_wrsin=92044&pt6_rpm=7000&pt6_ve=100&pt6_boost=24&pt6_ie=82&pt6_filres=0.2&pt6_ipd=1.6&pt6_mbp=0.8&pt6_ce=76&pt6_te=78.5&pt6_egt=1650&pt6_ter=2.31&pt6_pw=39.17&pt6_bsfc=0.5&pt6_afr=11.3&pt6_wts=400&pt6_wd=83&pt6_wd2=74&pt6_wrsin=92044&)

[Frank818]

I have to ask what "MR" stands for? :confused:

Mid-Engined, Rear-Wheel drive.


By "heavy and hard late RPM boost" I think he means the point at which torque "come on" and how aggressively that ramp-up in torque occurs.

Absolutely. I am just curious as to what definition he had in mind in terms of numbers. For example, gaining 1bar of boost in 100rpm, between 4000 and 4100rpm.

[SixStar]

....

[metalmaker12]

Agreed 250-350 whp max

[SixStar]

Didn't want to start a new thread and I'm sure there are more than enough discussions about it but please remember to level the engine before checking engine and transmission oil on your cars!!!

For me the front end of the car had to be quite a bit higher, I used a level on the crank pulley to make sure the engine was level. Without doing this the levels are quite a bit off. Just an FYI that I hope disseminates out there among 818 owners.

[SixStar]

After an interesting night on the alignment rack we've decided to go forward with ARP studs in the rear. This will allow the customer to install spacers to get matching track widths front to rear and make the wheels look better in the rear while being able to run a square setup regarding wheel and tire size.

31111
31112

Also fabricated up a nice simple exhaust brace using the factory mount on the transmission and the supplied mount along with some 18G 1/2" square tubing.

31113

[metalmaker12]

Alignment is interesting for sure.

[sponaugle]

This was a baseline pull. Nothing was changed. This is a bone stock map with a shorty intake.
Here are the three baseline pulls we did.
30870
Boost is on the left in PSI, AFRs on the right.
I changed the scaling a bit to make it easier to read. You can see without properly scaling the MAF with any aftermarket intake (other than the Cobb) the stock map make the car run very lean. Run continuously this will cause huge problems and eventually burn a valve, typically on #3.
Exhibits A and B, one from a 255 with an SPT intake another from a WRX also with an SPT intake. Both cars had no tune.
30871

A couple of notes.. and I'll try to be brief as to not overwhelm your build thread with something potentially a bit off topic. ( However I do want to provide some input as other people less familiar with the intricacies of the Subaru ECM eco system may be reading and taking direction)

(1) As a calibrator, I would never have done that 2nd and 3rd pull with the AFRs as they show in that graph. In fact I would have lifted as soon as I went full throttle and AFRs were 16:1. I would consider you very lucky that you didn't break a ring landing or bend a rod. Did you log DAM during the pull? Injector DCs? Any logs at all you could share?

(2) That boost curve is very odd, even given the altitude variable. It is almost 2000 rpm late in spoolup.

(3) I assume you have DA corrections turned on in the dyno? (SAE or STD?)

Here is a typical stock 2002-2003 WRX dyno graph (sea level). I think this is an older car with 82k miles on it, and sure enough it is a bit leaner then the car was stock which is typical of an aging MAF sensor.

http://www.sponaugle.com/818/WrX_dyno1.jpg

Your graph shows full boost around 4500 RPM, which is very very late even given the altitude corrections. Something must be wrong with that turbo, or perhaps with the catalytic converter if still installed.

Here is a graph from Cobb of a stock 2004 WRX ( same engine of course, and CPU is very similar)

http://www.sponaugle.com/818/2004StockWRXDyno.png

This is more typical of what I would expect in terms of AFR. Once boost onset occurs, AFRs are in the 10.9-11.1 range.


Seems simple enough doesn't it?
The biggest issue is that all intakes (aside from the COBB) aren't tuned the same as the factory box. This causes the MAF values to be off which means the tune is off.

While it is generally true that most of the WRX aftermarket intakes have different flow patterns from the stock one, that is somewhat to be expected. In most cases a stock WRX will have a rich mixture at high load (usually 10.9-11.0), and the slight MAF offset from an intake will move that AFR up a bit. A second side effect of this slightly lower reading MAF is a small increase in ignition timing as a result of lower calculated load. Both of these things conspire together to give the resulting increase on power, even though most of that power gain could be created with just some tuning adjustments. It is not correct to say that in all cases the lower restriction does not help out from a turbocharger pressure ratio perspective. It is also important to differentiate intakes that have much larger tubing sizes on purpose (BigMAFs). Those intakes will make an extreme difference in AFR if not calibrated correctly.


Take a look at these excellent results from Lance at Cobb:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2643088

It clearly shows the reduction in intake restriction ( a decrease in negative pressure at the turbocharger intake).




Regardless of that mod I'll let you know something we've discovered from literally hundreds and hundreds of pulls, keep in mind this is at elevation, if you're a coaster specifically east none of this applies. Every single car that has been on the dyno at Revolutions that has an aftermarket intake that's NOT Cobb runs lean. From the factory a bone stock WRX runs lean. Guess how much power an intake on a WRX makes.... zero. Always. They never flow better than stock. They SPOOL better than stock, so you will increase low end power and reach peak boost faster but top end gains are nonexistent. It's true the 2002+ ECUs do learn around mods, hell they learn so well they will override tunes if you don't do it right. This is all from experience and I'm sure there are a million threads on Nabisco from some bro tune that made a million bananas, that's just not what I've experienced.


This is an interesting perspective. While I would agree that the claims made my intake manufacturers are inflated, there are often measurable gains as a result of the change in both AFR and calculated load. I am surprised that you say a stock WRX runs leans, as it is reasonably well documented that the stock maps are relatively rich. If ALL WRXs on you dyno in stock form run 16:1 - 14:1, I would consider that there is some problem with your wideband calibration. Even the lean offset due to running behind a catalytic converter would not make a WRX that lean.

Consider the stock WRX fuel map:

http://www.sponaugle.com/818/StockWRXFuelMap.png

Keep in mind these are open loop targets, but as you can see the called for AFR is very rich, especially at higher rpm and load. This is typical of Subaru tuning philosophy especially in the USDM models. Obviously MAF calibrations make a huge difference especially in an open loop target like this.

As a curiosity I consulted with a few other calibrators, and all agreed that something is amiss. Many suggested that an old MAF sensor might be the culprit, and some thought perhaps the AFR sensor was bad or miscalibrated. Either way I would not do any full throttle runs until those AFRs are fixed.

[Frank818]

Consider the stock WRX fuel map:

http://www.sponaugle.com/818/StockWRXFuelMap.png

Keep in mind these are open loop targets

For tuners out there, read carefully this map. The X axis is a volume of air (grams of air per rev) entering the cylinder. This is a different perspective than air pressure (PSI, kPa, etc.) and cannot be used if you don't use a MAF sensor or something calculating the volume of air. What I mean is that at 20psi 3k rpm you could have 2 g/rev but if your turbo/IC gets more efficient, it could be 2.5 g/rev for still the same pressure (20) at the same RPM (3k).

I think we should move this conversation to a dedicated thread, I love the fuel/timing tuning and also think all this should be moved.

[sponaugle]

For tuners out there, read carefully this map. The X axis is a volume of air (grams of air per rev) entering the cylinder. This is a different perspective than air pressure (PSI, kPa, etc.) and cannot be used if you don't use a MAF sensor or something calculating the volume of air. What I mean is that at 20psi 3k rpm you could have 2 g/rev but if your turbo/IC gets more efficient, it could be 2.5 g/rev for still the same pressure (20) at the same RPM (3k).

I think we should move this conversation to a dedicated thread, I love the fuel/timing tuning and also think all this should be moved.

Indeed most of the maps in the Subaru ECU are load based.. but load based maps are not limited to MAF based car of course. You can use Speed Density and the map is the same. The only difference is the load is calculated differently. It is certainly true ( and good of you to point our Frank ) that these maps are not based on manifold pressure, so the traversal across the map tends to look like a torque curve on it's side. In the case of the WRX you would really never get to those bottom right most cells without a very unusual boost curve.

Agree that I don't want to take over SixStars thread. I'll continue the discussion here: http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?15001-Ask-Answer-Engine-Calibration-Question

Jeff

[SixStar]

Alignment is interesting for sure.

Did your car show the rear to be narrower than the front? We're using all WRX sedan arms and there was almost an inch difference. I can fix that but I'm curious if others experienced the same.

[metalmaker12]

It would have with the same width rims , but I have 7x8F +35 and 18x9 +35 rear

[SixStar]

Ok cool. Wanted to make sure my guy didn't botch the rear arms somehow. We're shooting for a square setup with spacers. 10mm per side and another 2.5mm or so of adjustment. Should be pretty close.

Thanks!

[SixStar]

Forums are a blessing and a curse. You have lots of smart people that know lots of things about lots of things from all over the world. And while I know the general discourse was pleasant and polite I feel it was unnecessary and unwarranted. I took it as a personal afont to my experience as a Subaru tech and a tuner. I'm a pretty smart guy, I know that 16 is bad and 12 is good. It's simple stuff. That said there is no logical way that car A can be compared to car B over thousands of miles under a myriad of conditions on different measuring tools.

This thread is here to document the trials and tribulations of building Factory Five Racing 818S Kit #80 for our client. I will no longer be sharing anecdotal advice and evidence, it will be factual and straight forward. Part A fit like this. Part B is installed.

If anyone has questions or concerns regarding Six Star Cars, Six Star Tuning, or my personal experience as a technician, racer, tuner please direct them through the web site or PM.

Thanks!

[Mechie3]

I like anecdotal stuff.... It's how I learned half of what I learned. :(

[SixStar]

I like anecdotal stuff.... It's how I learned half of what I learned. :(

Just not in this build thread. We can muck up the Who we are and What we do thread. I'll start....

[sponaugle]

I will no longer be sharing anecdotal advice and evidence, it will be factual and straight forward. Part A fit like this. Part B is installed.
If anyone has questions or concerns regarding Six Star Cars, Six Star Tuning, or my personal experience as a technician, racer, tuner please direct them through the web site or PM.
Thanks!

Please don't change any of your behaviours as a result of anything I have said. I have great respect for the forum system, and the etiquette is clear. This thread is your thread for documenting your build and sharing your experience. The rest of us are guest and should treat it accordingly.

Cheers,

Jeff

[Quiny]

Did your car show the rear to be narrower than the front? We're using all WRX sedan arms and there was almost an inch difference. I can fix that but I'm curious if others experienced the same.

I had the same question, I'm using sedan LCAs and wagon rear laterals so I think I will probably have more than an inch difference. I assume wheel spacers will be the answer. Please let us know how it works out.

[RM1SepEx]

wheel offset makes a big diff too. I thought wagons were only 10 MM different, that is only about 3/8 inch

[SixStar]

Got the 10mm spacers on. Links and arms soon, then back to the alignment rack. I'll post results.

Also installed the COBB SF intake and ran it on the dyno again, AFRs are spot on for a stock tune. A word of caution, check the part number on your fuel pump before installation. Someone had put another Subaru pump in the donor car and it was NOT a turbo pump. Glad it was a simple fix.

[Frank818]

Someone who didn't know at all what he/she was doing...

[SixStar]

Someone who didn't know at all what he/she was doing...

Yep. I deal with a lot of previous Civic owners that find themselves in a WRX and make life very very hard for themselves. My favorite has to me a 2010 STI that came in "tuned" with an SAFC :confused:

Off topic again. Just a word of caution, double check your donors!

[SixStar]

Spent most of the past two days reworking the wiring harness. It's a lot of time, like an insane amount of time, to do this right and it's nasty sticky dirty work. It's nice to be finalizing a few things though in preparation for fitting the body and finishing the car. Lots to do still but every little bit crossed off the white board is nice.

Rear O2 sensor is installed, still need to paint the bracket
31686

Hard to tell but this area is DONE, little bracket for the COBB SF air intake, front O2 bracket, everything secured
31687

Last time all this will be easy to get to so I'm triple checking everything before piling wiring in there and sealing it off from the rest of the cabin
31688

The three "main" harnesses after stripping all the extra crap off and tucking up some wires that won't ever be needed
31689

Nice little pile of fail left over. Was able to get some great length out of the drivers side engine harness which will make install much cleaner
31690

This is our prototype harness, every single plug and connector has been painstakingly labeled for the 818. Green tape means it's not used, yellow means it is, red means it can go away for good (SRS, rear doors, trunk latch, etc.
31691

Took some liberties with the main engine bay fuse block mounting, I didn't like the idea of riveting a panel over it and hoping for the best, it's now "easily" accessible from the engine bay
31692

Simple bracket for the COBB that doubles as a mount for the BCS. Shameless sticker placement
31693

Harness #1, main fuse block and wiring for front lights, fans, horn, markers, drivers side engine wiring. It'll be much nicer doing these in stages and getting everything tucked and secure rather than a big floppy rats nest
31694

[SixStar]

Been a delay in the build lately. With Solo Nationals at the end of the month I've been bust prepping some Subarus for ASP, ESP, STU and SM.

The good news is the harness will be buttoned up tomorrow and panels should start going on this week and next!

[SixStar]

Spent the last two days wrapping up the interior panels. Everything went as expected. Can't find a great solution to the ebrake handle boot, the 02-05 brake handle doesn't have the ridge that the 06-07 has so it'll need a custom boot at some point, just doesn't fit right. But the wiring is all done, dash mounted, seats and belts mounted, console, shifter, boot, etc. Spent the better part of a day removing the problematic sedan belts and switching them to some wagon belts I sourced, they work MUCH better. There will have to be some modifications to the tin in the back of the car but I'm sure that won't be any harder than anything else has been.

Runs and drives like it did before, fun, terrifying, exciting. Installing the new 6 piece rear suspension links next week then back to the alignment rack. Hopefully with the links and 10mm spacers we can match the track width front and rear and stabilize the handling a bit better. Ordered a new windscreen, that shows on the 15th, installed on the 16th. Once that's in I can finish the dash, it'll need attached in the front some how, I'm hoping a day in the sun settles it and makes it less wavy. In between this, our 818R for SEMA and some customer cars I should be able to start getting panels bolted on soon. Not looking forward to the doors.....

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[SixStar]

Installed the 6 piece arm kit today. You do have to do a little fab to get these on but the adjustability will be great. Note that they actually reduce tire clearance on the trailing arm so spacers are a must. There's about a 1/4" with stock wheels and tires and 10mm spacers.

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[Boog]

I've been hearing the rear referred to as a 5-link setup. Is the 6th piece the shock?

[SixStar]

I've been hearing the rear referred to as a 5-link setup. Is the 6th piece the shock?

I think you might be confusing two different things. This is just an aftermarket kit that replaces factory parts, specifically the two trailing arms, and four lateral links to make them adjustable. It's an inexpensive eBay kit that works very well.

[Boog]

Ah, that makes more sense.

[SixStar]

Found some time last night to align the 818S. With the new arms we were able to nail the specifications that we wanted. 1.5 degrees of camber front and rear, with 2.6~ caster, very little toe in front with just a little in the rear to keep it stable.

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[wleehendrick]

Looking good! BTW, do you ride the little pink bike to the shop? ;)

[SixStar]

Always!

[Frank818]

About the exhaust configuration, is that the one we call "stock FFR" location and installation? Or you did something different than what FFR recommends/does?

[SixStar]

About the exhaust configuration, is that the one we call "stock FFR" location and installation? Or you did something different than what FFR recommends/does?

FFR parts. So it goes turbo to pie wedge thing, to stock #2 downpipe cat to stubby outlet. I'm not sure how I'm going to line up the hole in the bumper but I'll figure that out when the time comes.

[Frank818]

Ok cool, I'll save your pic on my machine and use it as a reference. I asked cuz FFR is building a trunk that will work with stock exhaust location, so I try not to interfere (I am not following the manual), whether I decide to choose their trunk in the future.