New to the forum - specing out an MK4 build to start in the spring

[cobrabite]

Hello everyone! :D

I am in the hunting and gathering stage of specing out an MK4 build to start in the spring.
I'm finding that the hardest part is deciding on the drivetrain.

Since experiencing a 427 replica over 20 years ago - I had my mind set on a big block.
However, being budget conscious for this build, and recognizing that a 302 or 351 can provide more than enough horsepower per pound- I've eased off of that requirement and considering a small block.
(As long as the side pipes still set off car alarms!)

I've heard that the 351's are difficult to deal with in the kit?
Are the 302's best suited for ease of build?
I seem to think that a built 302 (330) can be a very formidable powerplant in a 2000 lb car.

So, I guess I am leaning toward a full donor and possibly getting an aftermarket engine/tranny setup from a vendor.
(Or just the engine and use the tranny/rear from the donor)

Are there vendors out there that provide a palleted donor kit of just parts needed for an MK4 build?

I understand the 8.8 positrac is a good choice, but I see some talk about different widths?
I don't want the track width to be too wide, I'd rather tuck larger tires under the fender. I think the ones where you can see the tops of the tread outside the fender look ridiculous and want to make sure this doesnt happen. Including front end as well.
I like the Hailibrand replicas - and will likely purchase the FFR ones - not sure if I should go 15 or 17" though.
I love the look of the 15" Goodyear racing tires -

Does anyone have a spreadsheet or checklist of all the things to consider and possible costs?

I think once I know the direction I want to go in, I'll be in much better shape - just right now I'm not sure which way to go.

And lastly, I live in Southern CT and would love to make new 'Cobra' friends in the area and see how you have done yours.

Thanks and looking forward to a fun learning experience and build on this awesome forum!
-Wayne

[68GT500MAN]

Welcome to the forum and the madness of the decision process. I do not know why you think that 351s are difficult to deal with, as long as it is a Windsor you should not have any more problems than a 302 presents.
Doug

[cobrabite]

Welcome to the forum and the madness of the decision process. I do not know why you think that 351s are difficult to deal with, as long as it is a Windsor you should not have any more problems than a 302 presents.
Doug
Doug - I had heard from someone who installed a 351 Cleveland and had to have headers made. He said nothing fit. I dont know the difference between the 2 though. I was looking at a few of the long block vendors on the forum - a 340 HP 302 for about 5-6 grand seems reasonable.

Are the twin bars an option from FFR? I definitely prefer that look.

I'm also surprised that the alum panels are not anodized. Anyone else fitting them and then sending out for anodize? How much is that running?

[edwardb]

You would probably get more responses to this thread over in the Roadster forum rather than here in a regional forum. I can give some responses based on my experience with two builds. For much of this there are no absolutes though. Every build is different.

I've heard that the 351's are difficult to deal with in the kit? Are the 302's best suited for ease of build? I seem to think that a built 302 (330) can be a very formidable powerplant in a 2000 lb car.

A: A 351 Windsor (as opposed to a 351 Cleveland, different engine) is no more difficult to deal with than any other of the recommended choices. Requires different headers (available from FFR) and because of the higher deck, may have some limitations on carb/air cleaner combinations compared to a 302 and spark plug access is a light tighter. But other than that, no difference really. A well build 302 (e.g. the Ford Racing crate) is a great choice, especially for a first time builder. And yes, they go very well. Many guys, including me with my latest build, look at strokers. 331/347/363 in the 302 block is really a great setup for these.

So, I guess I am leaning toward a full donor and possibly getting an aftermarket engine/tranny setup from a vendor. Or just the engine and use the tranny/rear from the donor.

A: Donor builds, especially from the older Fox body Mustangs are getting harder and harder. Just not much out there any more, or the really good ones don’t make economic sense. Guys do donor builds with newer Mustangs, e.g. those with the mod motors, but this isn't something I know much about at all. You can source individual parts from donors, e.g. the rear axle, etc. But maybe not start with a whole car.

Are there vendors out there that provide a palleted donor kit of just parts needed for an MK4 build?

A: Yes, as I understand there are salvage yards that do donor pallets (e.g. engine, trans, etc.) but not necessarily just for a Mk4 Roadster. Summit Racing has a relatively new program where they have pre-selected all the parts to build a Mk4. Something to look at. Mark Reynolds at Breeze (a forum vendor) can set up packages for you. http://www.breezeautomotive.com/home.php?cat_id=37

I understand the 8.8 positrac is a good choice, but I see some talk about different widths? I don't want the track width to be too wide, I'd rather tuck larger tires under the fender. I think the ones where you can see the tops of the tread outside the fender look ridiculous and want to make sure this doesn’t happen. Including front end as well.

A: Use the recommended parts from FFR (axles, spindles, wheels, etc.) and this won’t be a problem. This is a whole subject onto itself, but with careful selection you’ll be fine. BTW, the Ford 8.8 is not just a good choice, it’s what these cars are designed around. Also BTW, I strongly recommend using the newer FFR front spindles as opposed to donor Fox or SN95 spindles. They are a huge improvement.

I like the Hailibrand replicas - and will likely purchase the FFR ones - not sure if I should go 15 or 17" though. I love the look of the 15" Goodyear racing tires.

A: FFR only sells them in 17 inch rims. 15’s are available elsewhere, and while they look cool you will be limited with both brake and tire selection.

Are the twin bars an option from FFR? I definitely prefer that look.

A: A driver side roll bar is standard with the kit. A passenger side roll bar is available as an option. The MK4 chassis has the mounts already installed for both. Easy.

I'm also surprised that the alum panels are not anodized. Anyone else fitting them and then sending out for anodize? How much is that running?

A: FFR sells the aluminum unfinished. The parts need to be fitted and drilled before finishing. Haven’t heard too much about anodize. Powder coating is very common. Some paint, some just use a sealant, some leave them plain. Part of your build plan.

Hope that helps a little. Good luck. And welcome to the fun. It’s a blast.

[Jeff Kleiner]

Nothing to add to edwardb's excellent comments other than to note that FFR does indeed offer their Halibrand replicas in both 15 and 17 inch versions.

http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/15-vintage-halibrand-replica-wheels/

Cheers,
Jeff

[edwardb]

Nothing to add to edwardb's excellent comments other than to note that FFR does indeed offer their Halibrand replicas in both 15 and 17 inch versions.

http://www.factoryfiveparts.com/15-vintage-halibrand-replica-wheels/ Cheers, Jeff

Hey Jeff. How did I not know that??? You're right of course. Thanks for the correction.

[cobrabite]

Great help - thanks so much guys!
I am starting a checklist of my 'wants' and 'needs'.
Also, I'll post up in the Roadster forum- Thanks!

[FormulaGod]

Im from Cromwell CT, and my wife and I just decided on a build. Im in the same boat as you in regards to questions and decisions to make. I took the tour last Saturday over in Wareham Mass, and will probably go again in early spring. Good luck with your build.
Regards,
Paul

[riptide motorsport]

FormulaGod................you need to put the Marauder engine in a Cobra!!! :)

[carlewms]

The input you have so far has been spot on to the input I got back in 2012 when I was going through the same process. It can be a bit overwhelming at times. Here are some additional considerations:

Before finalizing your drive train choice you should also consider how you will use the car. Are you going to auto cross? Track it? Street only?

Do you want to build to originality or to the modern?

Depending on the answer you should consider the following:

1. IRS or Live Axle
2. Power or Manual Steering
3. Power Or Manual Brakes
4. ABS
5. Transmission and Gear Ratios
6. Differential Gearing
7. Creature comforts such as heater (if you want to add air conditioning you can do it later but will dictate how a lot of behind the dash space is used.

There are probably others but these are ones that impact the items you purchase either as part of the kit or from other sources at the beginning. In cases like the IRS, heating or air conditioning, it would be practically impossible to add after the car was completed without major time and expense.

FFR sometimes has sales on the options; when I purchased my kit options where half off. I purchased the base kit and added IRS, leather seats, Wilwood brakes, Wilwood pedal box, Halibrand 17 inch wheels, and a few other minor options.

Just my 2 cents,

Carl

[carlewms]

Cobrabite,

FFR is having the 50% off on the options sale right now. The only exception to the sale is the soft top is not part of the deal.

[JoeT]

Hey Wayne,

I'm local (Cheshire) and you are welcome anytime , but it's an earlier Mk3. It's a 351w with about 400hp at the wheels, IRS and 3.27 gears (right now). I'd offer you some seat time, but it's currently unregistered as it needs a couple things to be CT legal. It's a non ps/pb car with no creature comforts like heat or ac. I have about 3 hours work and a day at the DMV that I would like to get done before the snow flies.

[FormulaGod]

Hey Wayne,

I'm local (Cheshire) and you are welcome anytime , but it's an earlier Mk3. It's a 351w with about 400hp at the wheels, IRS and 3.27 gears (right now). I'd offer you some seat time, but it's currently unregistered as it needs a couple things to be CT legal. It's a non ps/pb car with no creature comforts like heat or ac. I have about 3 hours work and a day at the DMV that I would like to get done before the snow flies.

Joe, I'd like to poke my head under the hood of your MK if possible; sounds like a nice setup you got there.

[FormulaGod]

FormulaGod................you need to put the Marauder engine in a Cobra!!! :)

Well lets see, my Marauder is 4,400 lbs running 11.7 on a 4.6L modular Cobra block w/a vortech blower.
Take this engine and put it in an MK, it will likely be a low 9er IF and only IF it gets traction. Crazy!

[JoeT]

Joe, I'd like to poke my head under the hood of your MK if possible; sounds like a nice setup you got there.


anytime....sent PM with my contact info