Footbox covering

[stevem]

Anybody ever use herculiner or duplicolor on the engine side of the footboxes. Can it hold up to the heat from the headers. Don't know that I will like the bare aluminum and I have never had much luck with spay paint.

[edwardb]

You name it, and it's probably been used for the aluminum. I've seen write-ups for regular automotive paint, every manner of aerosol like Duplicolor, a product called Sharkhide, another product call LizardSkin, and so on. I don't recall anyone using a bedliner like Herculiner, but it would probably work too. Quick Google search and couldn't find any reference to what temps it's good for. But within reason (e.g. headers not touching) I can't imagine it would be any different than other products listed. Lots of guys leave the aluminum plain, and it definitely ages and gets some real patina. Just depends on what you want. Personally, both of my builds have used powder coat for all the panels. I would say of the finished methods used, this is probably the most common. Looks great with lots of color and texture choices, very durable, heat is not an issue, easy to keep clean and looking like new. It's not the cheapest option, but I don't know anyone that regretted using it. I certainly haven't. Highly recommended.

[Jeff Kleiner]

I've used both Herculiner and Duplicolor Bed Armor for the underside of bodies and inside the wheelwells and while they are good products I'm afraid they would be less than ideal for the engine bay panels, not so much due of heat but because of the rough texture that will act like something of a dirt magnet and be difficult to clean or keep looking fresh.

I did a very low cost (under 20 bucks) treatment to the exposed engine bay panels of my Mk3 that might interest you as an option. I was going to use powder but couldn't get my local guy to commit to either a time frame or ballpark price so I just grabbed the bull by the horns and did this one Saturday:

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj43/jkleiner/100_0417.jpg

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj43/jkleiner/100_0420.jpg

http://i269.photobucket.com/albums/jj43/jkleiner/100_0423.jpg

The recipe; after drilling/fitting clean the panels with acetone to take off the surface oxidation and ink marking. Using a medium grit (green or gray) scotchbrite pad make long straight strokes to get a consistent "brushed" grain. I've heard of some guys doing this wet or with WD40 but I preferred the results by just doing it dry. Next clean them again with acetone and when you arent getting any more black residue on your rag follow up with lacquer thinner and blow dry. Go with 2-4 coats of rattle can "Crystal Clear" from Rustoleum. Finally bake it on. For pieces that will fit put them in the oven at 250 for 20 minutes or so (did I mention my wife was out of town when I did this?). For larger panels I focused a double 500 watt halogen light stand on them for the afternoon. BTW, rather than giving them the brushed treatment I simply hit the unseen outer panels such as footbox sides with a couple of coats of black ruberized undercoating.

After 7 years and 16K miles a quick cleanup with a spritz of detail spray makes the clear coated panels look like they day they were installed.

Good luck with whatever you decide to go with!

Jeff

[2bking]

I liked the look of Jeff's panels and decided to do the same but with DiamondFinish Clear coat from KBS Coatings. They claim, "An incredibly tough Direct To Metal Clear Coat like no other on the market. This water clear high gloss clear coat remains permanently flexible and is able to perform in the toughest environments without yellowing, cracking or peeling." It's good to 325F.

That's my plan but have not applied it yet.