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View Full Version : Wilwood Clutch Master Cylinder Installation Questions



carlewms
10-18-2013, 03:57 PM
I am installing the hydraulic clutch using the Fortes kit with slave cylinder and Wilwood 1 1/8 in master cylinder in a Mk4.

1. How did you route the hydraulic line from the MC to the SC on the right side of the T5 transmission?

2. The MC did not come with a locknut for the shaft that attaches to the upper pedal per the picture below:

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It did not come with a lock nut but I would presume it should have one. Am I right?

Thanks in advance,

Carl

edwardb
10-18-2013, 09:08 PM
I have all the same parts for my Mk4 build. MC installed, but not the hydraulic line and slave since the engine and trans aren't in yet. Hopefully I will learn from this thread too. One hint though from a local club buddy who did this same hydraulic clutch setup on his Mk4 build. He highly recommended mocking the setup up first, e.g. before installed the engine and trans. He plumbed it up with the engine and transmission assembly next to the chassis. Ended up having to make some adjustments and even change the cylinder sizes before everything worked properly. Would have been a pain or even impossible to make the adjustments he did once installed. I'm planning to do the same. Other than bleeding the system twice, I can't think of any downside, and really prefer not to have the engine in/out multiple times.

Specific responses to your questions:

1. Here are some ideas from the other forum: http://www.ffcars.com/forums/17-factory-five-roadsters/248975-hydraulic-clutch-lines.html

2. Yes. Needs a locknut. Picture of mine:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2011212012/th_IMG_1877.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2011212012/IMG_1877.jpg.html)

carlewms
10-18-2013, 11:02 PM
Edward,

Thanks for the responses. I too will do the mockup.

it looks like the routing is fairly straight forward.

Carl

2bking
10-19-2013, 10:59 AM
2. Yes. Needs a locknut. Picture of mine:

http://i867.photobucket.com/albums/ab234/edwardb123/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2011212012/th_IMG_1877.jpg (http://s867.photobucket.com/user/edwardb123/media/Factory%20Five%20Mark%204%20Roadster%20Build/Update%2011212012/IMG_1877.jpg.html)

When I click on the picture it takes me to Photobucket and the picture is only slightly larger. Am I missing a method for making the picture full size?

tcoon
10-19-2013, 03:30 PM
I ran the hydraulic line straight right toward the tranny tunnel then straight down. The supplied line barely reaches but has worked well. The master banjo fitting can be rotated any direction to give the most direct routing.

edwardb
10-19-2013, 03:57 PM
When I click on the picture it takes me to Photobucket and the picture is only slightly larger. Am I missing a method for making the picture full size?

Just checked, and seems to be OK with IE, Chrome, and Safari on my iPhone. The thumbnail in the thread should open a normal sized picture in Photobucket. Regardless, there is a magnifying glass icon in the lower RH side of the picture. If you click that it should expand. Then click again and it should go full size. These are pretty hi-res pics that I uploaded full size. So lots of detail should be visible.

2bking
10-19-2013, 07:37 PM
Ok, I think I figured this out. Clicking on the picture takes me to mobile photobucket but there is link at the bottom of the page to "full Website". Clicking on that get the full picture the next time I click on the picture in the post.

You have a good looking build going. Did you paint the rivet heads?

edwardb
10-19-2013, 08:06 PM
You have a good looking build going. Did you paint the rivet heads?

Thanks. All the visible rivets are black Ultimate rivets from Summit. Matches the black powder coat pretty well.

carlewms
10-20-2013, 07:21 AM
Thanks all for your inputs. Here are the latest photos from my installation:

The first is a top view showing the setup allowing full stroke of the master cylinder.

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This shows the master fully stroked. I believe this should equate to 1 1/8 inches.

22674

As set up now, the brake and clutch pedals are essentially even when not depressed. This photo shows the clutch pedal fully depressed. As set up now before testing with the clutch, the pedal moves about 5.5 inches to achieve a full stroke of 1 1/8 inches of the master cylinder.

22675

As others have done, I modified the arm of the clutch pedal to remove interference with the square tube. I had not done this before installation of the pedal box; which would have been a lot easier from a grinding point of view. This method was easier from the perspective of taking just enough material to mark it work. Using a Dremel tool I was able to grind the pedal, cycle the pedal to check interference, repeat until complete. I left a "square" shoulder on the pedal arm that acts like a mechanical stop.

Next I need to connect up the reservoir to the MC. I had planned to connect the braided line from the reservoir to the top of the MC but I need a different top for the MC to make that work.

Carl