Wiring Guide: 06 WRX Sedan with Auto AC/HVAC

[Mechie3]

Wiring Delete Guide:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3e_x5F4WA06elA5bGtTamR2Y1E/edit?usp=sharing
Last updated 12-31-2013


This thread will document all of the connectors in a 2006 WRX Sedan with

auto HVAC
manual transmission
no sunroof
no heated wipers
no heated seats.


Please note, the wagon has slightly different wiring in certain areas as does the manual HVAC model (found on the TR model for 2006). Non turbo cars (imprezas) are also slightly different. Specific wire colors sometimes change as do the existence of certain connectors.

Objective:

Retain:
front door sensors
keyless entry
interior overhead light
trunk light.


Delete:
ABS
power steering
HVAC
rear door sensors
other minor systems


My process:
I use two colors of tape: Red and Green. Green tape indicates a connector is needed. Red tape indicates a connector is not needed. The blue tape in the pictures is where I identified the connector when I originally removed the harness from the car.

Layout of Connector Pictures:
Picture
Connector name (corresponds to ID in wiring diagram)
What it connects to (or what it is in the case of harness to harness connectors)
What to do with it (with optional notes).


The wiring diagrams are separated by system so wiring junctions or spliced wires do not always appear in a single diagram. Trace each wire to confirm it ends where it should or if it terminates at a junction.

Wires to keep are not listed (except for optional systems). The chart only lists wires that can be removed.

This document is best used in conjunction with the 2006 WRX wiring guide.
http://ken-gilbert.com/wrx/mans/2006_impreza.zip

How to Read the Document
The first column
*: indicates to check the notes
?: Indicates I'm not 100% sure it can be deleted
OPT: indicates an optional delete/keep (example: power mirrors)

Connector: Name of the connector

Fully remove: States if the connector can be fully removed (yes)

Total Pins: Total pin locations on diagram (not necessarily all populated)

Pin: What pin number this row refers to

Wire color: Standard Subaru color chart indicating color of wire at that connector at that pin. Capitals indicate new color, lowercase indicates 2 letter color code. Second letter(s) = stripe. example: BOr = Black wire with Orange stripe, RY = red wire yellow stripe.

Mating connector: ID of mating connector if it fully connects to a different connector

Function: What it does.

Notes: Optional info relating to OPT components or if you need to cut the wire at a junction and not fully remove it.

As always, perform this work at your own risk. I assume no liability for mistakes in this writeup, bad suggestions, or angry significant others as you try to have the smallest harness possible and spend too much time in the garage.


If you find errors, fixes, or info to add please let me know

[Mechie3]

R16: Rear Door Switch, RH
Connects to rear door open/closed switch
Not needed. Short wires together (permanently closed)
http://i.imgur.com/lSdfhof.jpg

R19: Third Brake Light
Connects to interior third brake light on cars without a factory installed wing.
Remove completely (do not short) or keep to install thrid brake light.
http://i.imgur.com/MwM0ceo.jpg

R20: Trunk Light
Connects to light inside trunk
Use to implement trunk light in conjuction with R27 or delete completely (do not short) if no light is desired
http://i.imgur.com/712zrII.jpg

R24: Spoiler Brake Light
Connects to harness that connects to spoiler thrid brake light. Same function as R19 for cars with a factory spoiler.
http://i.imgur.com/31spZ8U.jpg

R22: Rear Door Switch, LH
Same as R16
http://i.imgur.com/m7AjWCo.jpg

R26: Taillight, RH
Connects to taillight.
Splice into FFR supplied harness for factory light function.
http://i.imgur.com/31spZ8U.jpg

R28: Taillight, LH
Connects to driver taillight
Same function as R26.
http://i.imgur.com/VPE3otn.jpg

[Mechie3]

R27: Trunk Open
Connects to switch in trunk to turn on/off Trunk light in combination with R20.
May be removed if no trunk light is desired or kept to implement engine bay light (a switch needs to be added)
http://i.imgur.com/lPwL4j2.jpg

R63: License Plate Lights
Connects to license plate light harness.
Splice into FFR supplied license plate light harness.
http://i.imgur.com/V6zt4CP.jpg

R65/R17: Rear Defog
Permanently attached to rear defog coil. Connector ends plug into window mounted defog system.
Remove with coil (black box)
http://i.imgur.com/Uyq0xyH.jpg

R72, Rear RH ABS Sensor
Connects to harness on hub mounted ABS sensor.
Delete completely if no ABS is to be used or keep to implement ABS.
http://i.imgur.com/BabBPw0.jpg

R130: Rear Defog Coil
Connects rear harness to defog coil. Unplugging this allows easy removal of coil and R65/R17.
Remove completely and cut back wires, do not short.
http://i.imgur.com/9ePlJnO.jpg

R122: Fuel Pump Module
Connects rear harness to fuel pump module (relay)
KEEP THIS!
http://i.imgur.com/m3e0r8Q.jpg

R170: Trunk Diode
Diode plugs directly into the connector. It is part of the trunk light /trunk switch system. Path is power-->trunk light --> diode-->trunk switch-->ground. If the trunk light and switch are deleted, delete this (do not short it out). If you keep the light and switch, keep the diode. The wires may be shortened.
http://i.imgur.com/h650B83.jpg

[Mechie3]

B97: Bulkhead harness
Connects bulkhead harness to rear harness
Some wires may be trimmed. More info later.
http://i.imgur.com/EUEdZMJ.jpg

B99: Bulkhead harness
Same function as B97
(the yellow wire marked here is for the door sensor which can be traced back to it's source then shorted out to eliminate as much wire as possible).
http://i.imgur.com/68NTjHT.jpg

R1: Rear Harness
Connects rear harness to bulkhead harness B97
Some wires can be trimmed. Not sure which ones yet
http://i.imgur.com/AZWfO2m.jpg

R3: Rear Harness
Connects rear harness to bulkhead harness B99
Same function as R1.
http://i.imgur.com/97hI8DH.jpg

[Mechie3]

i51: Sunload Sensor
Connectos to sensor on top of dash
http://i.imgur.com/rwp4GUx.jpg

i59: Clock
Connects to clock/airbag indicator light on Dash
Can delete (also good source for switched and constant 12V supply)
http://i.imgur.com/VDe9AQD.jpg

Power Socket and Light
4 Pin connects to B119 (Front accessory Power)
Use to install power socket or delete
http://i.imgur.com/kecIjM1.jpg

R2: Rear Harness
Connects to B98, bulkhead harness
Can delete some (not sure which yet)
http://i.imgur.com/44eiiKi.jpg

R15: Fuel Tank Harness
Connects to R57, Fuel Tank Cord
http://i.imgur.com/vV6D8rV.jpg

R50, B90: Bulkhead to Rear Connection
Intermediate Connector
http://i.imgur.com/6TKvPXs.jpg

R52: Dome Light
Connects to dome light
Delete or keep to have interior lighting activated with door.
http://i.imgur.com/XwSxcR4.jpg

[Mechie3]

R56, Map Lights
Connects to lights above rearview mirror
Delete or keep for 12V always on power source
http://i.imgur.com/U6UZ8YB.jpg

R73: Rear LH ABS Sensor
Connects to Driver side ABS Sensor in rear
Delete (or keep if using ABS)
http://i.imgur.com/NF8eKBZ.jpg

R97: Antenna Amp
Connects wiring harness to antenna amplifier
Delete if not using radio
http://i.imgur.com/nDspqoL.jpg

R139: Compass mirror
Connects to compass mirror
Delete or keep for switched 12V power source
http://i.imgur.com/MrrrOLT.jpg

AB3: Air Bag Module
Connects to Air Bag Control Module
Delete
http://i.imgur.com/HcQWwTd.jpg

AB7, AB8: Air Bag Module
Connects to air bag control module
Delete
http://i.imgur.com/c0X1KxA.jpg

AB9, R245, AB61, AB64: Driver Seat
Various Airbag, seat, and buckle sensors under drivers seat
Delete
http://i.imgur.com/FohBwBq.jpg

[Mechie3]

AB10: LH Airbag Sensor
Connects to side sensor for airbag (G sensor?)
Delete
http://i.imgur.com/aSWVzjM.jpg

AB11: RH Seat Airbag (side airbag)
Connects to airbag inside passenger seat
Delete
Wrong photo here


AB13: Airbag Harness
Delete
http://i.imgur.com/UaQVqRI.jpg

AB19: LH Pretensioner
Attaches to driver side seatbelt pretensioner unit
Delete
http://i.imgur.com/ampXNs0.jpg

AB20: RH Pretensioner
Same as AB19 for passenger
Delete
http://i.imgur.com/QcMxpLq.jpg

AB21: Steering wheel Airbag
Delete
http://i.imgur.com/cbAt7rg.jpg

AB63: Belt Tension Sensor
Delete
http://i.imgur.com/PY9nx91.jpg

[Mechie3]

Airbag Control Module
Delete
http://i.imgur.com/UwT2HB3.jpg

Antenna Amplifier
Delete if not using radio
http://i.imgur.com/dZBtzpa.jpg

B8: Wiper Motor
Keep if using wiper assembly
http://i.imgur.com/84rRFFC.jpg

B14: Starter Magnet
Connects to tab on starter solenoid
http://i.imgur.com/e8JIB4X.jpg

R15, R72: ABS Sensor
Both connectors look the same with identical wiring
Delete if not using ABS
http://i.imgur.com/meCHvMJ.jpg

B16: Master Cylinder Connector
Senses brake fluid level
Keep this (deleting turns on brake light on gauge cluster)
http://i.imgur.com/43Ff039.jpg

B19/B17/B128 (L to R): Rear O2, Speed, Trans
Connects to harness attached to transmission
http://i.imgur.com/oEJYeSi.jpg

[Mechie3]

B30: Front LH Door Card
Connects to harness inside driver side door
Delete or keep some wires if you want to use power mirrors
http://i.imgur.com/iuHMK4J.jpg

B31/AB1: Bulkhead to ABS harness
Delete
http://i.imgur.com/XdIZ3tr.jpg

B36: Bulkhead to auto AC harness
Connects to i1, auto AC harness
Delete (not sure if all/some)
http://i.imgur.com/abkTTxa.jpg

B37: Bulkhead to auto AC Harness
Connects to i2
Same as B36
http://i.imgur.com/l9823Ie.jpg

B40: Data Link Connector (OBDII)
Keep this to read ECU/use Cobb
http://i.imgur.com/3TthlJX.jpg

AB4: Passenger airbag
Delete
http://i.imgur.com/csuj0y3.jpg

AB12: RH Side Airbag Sensor (G sensor?)
Delete
http://i.imgur.com/x5ii3qJ.jpg

[Mechie3]

Frank 818 would be proud of me though. :D

AB60: ABS to Bulkhead wiring
Delete
http://i.imgur.com/M24D6QV.jpg

Antenna plugs
Various wires coming off the antenna amplifier. The banana plug goes into the radio to provide a signal
Delete if not using the radio (comes off with amp when unplugged)
http://i.imgur.com/JfvNO3g.jpg

B32: Turn Signal
http://i.imgur.com/LWHHs0b.jpg

B50, Blower Fan Relay
Relay for blower fan on HVAC
Should be able to delete (need to confirm)
http://i.imgur.com/Uj5aOiP.jpg

B51, B271 (blue plugs): Fuse Box plugs
http://i.imgur.com/xjvxEhi.jpg

B65: Stop Light Switch
Connects to brake pedal (?)
http://i.imgur.com/HAfRm87.jpg

[Mechie3]

B68: Roll Connector
Cruise control and horn connect to this
Keep to use cruise/horn or splice into specific wires to make your own horn/cruise control buttons
http://i.imgur.com/1MIyfzI.jpg

B96: DRL Module
Module controls DRL function
Need to confirm entire module can be deleted
http://i.imgur.com/XHUqkMQ.jpg

B69: Parking Switch
Connects to parking light button on top of steering column
Keep this
http://i.imgur.com/K9QxI7J.jpg

B71: Combination Switch
Controls high beam, low beam, and dimmer
http://i.imgur.com/8Vy95ou.jpg

B72: Ignition Switch
http://i.imgur.com/ljJp6bS.jpg

B77, B256, B293, HVAC Controls
Not listed in order. Various inputs to blower/heater core
Believe you can delete everything
http://i.imgur.com/6VyxO8e.jpg

B91: Fresh/Recirc Actuator
Connectors to actuator on HVAC system to control fresh/recirc
Delete
http://i.imgur.com/pBKxNgG.jpg

[Mechie3]

B95: Diode (DRL)
Not sure if this can be deleted without affecting headlights. Need to confirm
http://i.imgur.com/fkeZIDZ.jpg

i22: Hazard Lights
Connects to dash mounted hazard button.
Keep this.
http://i.imgur.com/vPLMCnx.jpg

B98: Bulkhead to rear harness
Connects with R2
Can delete some wires (not sure which yet)
http://i.imgur.com/GnoPSgN.jpg

B101: RH Front Door Card
Connects to passenger door card
Delete this (need to confirm delete all)
http://i.imgur.com/YcYf8Vf.jpg

B102/B103: DRL Relay, High beam relay (DRL)
Not sure if these can be deleted without affecting headlight function.
http://i.imgur.com/VfAvMqp.jpg

B106: Clutch Switch
http://i.imgur.com/7j4Y7Uu.jpg

B112: Fog Light Diode
Not sure if this can be deleted. Keep if you want OEM fog operation
http://i.imgur.com/YfFS3Nt.jpg

[longislandwrx]

That's one way to get to 2000 posts. :D

Awesome post so far.

Looking at this, makes me want to do my harness diet before pulling it out of the car, one wire at a time and checking for issues.

[Mechie3]

B118: CD Player illumination
12V switched source. Delete or use for other accesories
http://i.imgur.com/Umsc8Hf.jpg

B119: Front Accessory Power
Plugs into previously shown power socket and light
Delete if not reusing 12V power socket
http://i.imgur.com/UMycqSl.jpg

B120: Radio
Can probably delete everything if not installing a stereo. Likely easier to wire up a stereo from scratch anyways.
http://i.imgur.com/O0zRawi.jpg

B121: Stereo Ground
http://i.imgur.com/Q2QnOYC.jpg

B122/B83: Joint Connectors
Small end connetors located near ECU under some tape
Leave these.
http://i.imgur.com/22bNnyK.jpg

B125/B126: Line end connector
Not sure what these do. I think they might have to do with DRL, but need to confirm
http://i.imgur.com/qMQwYmF.jpg

B134/B135/B136/B137: ECU
Self Explanatory.
Some lines can be deleted (lines controlling abs, hvac, etc)
http://i.imgur.com/WpUe76K.jpg

[Mechie3]

B141: Immobilizer
Connects to immobilizer under dash.
For use with RFID inside modern Subaru keys
http://i.imgur.com/rs5qfCL.jpg

B142: Immobilizer Antenna
Self Explanatory
http://i.imgur.com/h0VjOUF.jpg

B176: Keyless Entry Module
Self Explanatory
You can probably delete this if you really wanted to. Probably more work than it's worth and is handy to have for arming the factory alarm
http://i.imgur.com/6rYbrZJ.jpg

B198: Ground Terminal
Convenient way to ground multiple wires to a single chassis point
http://i.imgur.com/k2WULIA.jpg

B200/B61/B100/B108/B62: Bulkhead to Front harness
Connects bulkhead harness to front harness/fusebox
http://i.imgur.com/OeYRNC4.jpg

B208: Glove Box Light
Delete
http://i.imgur.com/tZRGg0G.jpg

B243: Security Horn Relay
http://i.imgur.com/ChWmiyN.jpg

[Mechie3]

B264: Short Connector
This is wrapped completely in tape near the inside fuse box. This can be deleted if you short the two wires in the pink connector together.
FSM calls this red (it's rather pink if you ask me).
http://i.imgur.com/Ot5Mvyx.jpg

B265: Rear LH Door Card
Delete all (need to confirm)
http://i.imgur.com/uQb5iQs.jpg

B267: Front LH Door Switch
Keep if you want door chimes/alarm, short together if you want to eliminate this
http://i.imgur.com/OifBUPa.jpg

B268: Front RH Door Switch
Same as R267 for passenger door
http://i.imgur.com/onsZD6y.jpg

B269: Rear RH Door Card
Same as B265
http://i.imgur.com/c4HUBLo.jpg

B282: Auto HVAC
Connects to Auto HVAC module
Delete all (need to confirm)
http://i.imgur.com/aDcex1Z.jpg

B283: Auto HVAC
Same as B282
http://i.imgur.com/AQjhIqL.jpg

[Mechie3]

B292: ABS G-Sensor
Delete
http://i.imgur.com/FG9m5jM.jpg

B301: ABS Module Controller
Connects to ABS controller built into ABS pump unit
http://i.imgur.com/pe2cPBR.jpg

B309, B47, B46: DBW throttle relay, Main relay, Fuel Pump relay
Keep all of these
http://i.imgur.com/jqcK0gE.jpg

B315: Throttle Position Sensor
Connects to DBW throttle pedal
http://i.imgur.com/kFtA901.jpg

B370, Ign Starter and Steering Lock
http://i.imgur.com/0CgMVrJ.jpg

B422: Starter cut relay
Believe this cuts power to all non critical electrical items during engine start except starter/ecu
http://i.imgur.com/4S4DGEW.jpg

B427: SRS Airbag Harness
Delete
http://i.imgur.com/JjcX2lv.jpg

[Mechie3]

i1: Auto AC to bulkhead harness
Connects to B36
May be able to delete all (need to confirm)
http://i.imgur.com/kN60EBL.jpg

i2: Auto AC to bulkhead harness
Connects to B37
Same as i1
http://i.imgur.com/0281MJD.jpg

i11/i12/i10: Gauge cluster (combination meter in FSM)
Keep these
http://i.imgur.com/h6ZgrXu.jpg

B70: Combination Switch
http://i.imgur.com/51wXbtd.jpg

B75/B76: Test mode connector
Keep these, but do not connect them. Only connect them when using test mode (usually done for writing to the ECU).
http://i.imgur.com/txux5ws.jpg

B87: HVAC Blower Motor
Delete or keep for high amperage switchable line via relay
http://i.imgur.com/RvYgafe.jpg

B107: Cruise Clutch Switch
Kills cruise if clutch is pressed during CC operation
http://i.imgur.com/iGczvPp.jpg

[metalmaker12]

Good job

[Xusia]

Very nice! Thank you.

[Zodiac]

this is definitely going to come in handy, thanks a lot

[AZPete]

Mechie, you are my new best friend! Keep adding stuff please. I've got 2 unopened cardboard boxes of 06 WRX wiring and nightmares. Your work will save me weeks of frustration. Moderator: we have Photo of the Month already but can we add "Member of the Month"?
Thanks, Mechie. Thanks.
Pete

[freds]

And again THANKS.

I haven't got to the harness yet...but feel much more confident about it knowing this resource is there.

fred

[Wayne Presley]

Can we call you Frank Jr now?

[tmoretta]

Can we call you Frank Jr now?

I am confused about why you are shorting some wires to ground, and simply cutting or eliminating others.

[Mechie3]

I am confused about why you are shorting some wires to ground, and simply cutting or eliminating others.

It depends on the function of what's being deleted and what state it is normally in while driving.

The rear door open/closed switches are normally closed when the doors are closed. When the doors are open, it triggers the door open light on the gauge cluster, can make some buzzers go off, and if you use the keyless entry to lock it it beeps multiple times and honks the horn. If you just cut these wires, the ECU thinks the door is permanently open. If you short it out, it's the same as permanently closing the door/switch (or taping it closed and letting it dangle, a much less elegant way to go).

For somethings like lights (trunk light for example), if you short them (ie, remove a switch and connect power to ground) the light will permanently be on with no way to shut it off. In these cases you can cut the wire and insulate the ends so it doesn't short out in the future. Or, you can attempt to fully remove the wire (ie: take pins out of connectors) so that nothing remains and there is no risk of the wire shorting out at some time in the future.

For things like ABS, they normally have a non steady signal so shorting these out would make the car think the wheels are permanently locked up (I think...) and I'm not sure of the effects of this. Removing the wires gives an error signal and just disables ABS (once pinched an ABS wire killing the signal and all it did was disable ABS until the wire was fixed).

[Mechie3]

I identified and photographed 135 more connectors today. It'll take some time to upload and post them.

[tmoretta]

I identified and photographed 135 more connectors today. It'll take some time to upload and post them.

Also, I am in process of simplifying my harness. Much of it is yellow air bag circuit. Since I will not be using this circuit, can I peel all the yellow wires back to source and eliminate?

[C.Plavan]

Frank 818 would be proud of me though. :D

That made me laugh!

I need the harness that goes from the engine/motor connecters to the ECU (and associated wires) Is it one harness?

Does the harness I need have everything I need to connect a Cobb accessport V3 also?

[Mechie3]

Also, I am in process of simplifying my harness. Much of it is yellow air bag circuit. Since I will not be using this circuit, can I peel all the yellow wires back to source and eliminate?

More or less. It gets tricky as sometimes they wrap with yellow, then switch to black, then combine it with another, then split it. Best bet is to find a FSM and get the wiring diagram. The hard part is identifying all the connectors (which I've done here). The easier part is tracing one part to another and cutting it off.


That made me laugh!

I need the harness that goes from the engine/motor connecters to the ECU (and associated wires) Is it one harness?

Does the harness I need have everything I need to connect a Cobb accessport V3 also?

On my 06 It's multiple. There's the front engine harness that attaches to the bulkhead harness on the driver side but some connectors (02, boost solenoid, MAF, rear 02, speed, trans) are part of the bulkhead harness itself.

Should be able to connect to a COBB. I'm using a V2. I'm only cutting off things that no longer exist (HVAC, airbags, ABS) and even if I didn't cut them out wouldn't do anythign.

[Mechie3]

B160: Fog Light Switch
Connects to OEM fog light switch. Provides power to fog relay and lights up OEM button. Wired such that turning on high beams turns off fogs.
Delete if not using fogs/OEM fog button or you want fog lights operable at the same time as high beams.
http://i.imgur.com/O7O4dI1.jpg

B281/B280: Body Integrated Module
Keep this
http://i.imgur.com/bmqltkV.jpg

B41/B158/B152/B52: Fuse Box
All connectors on the back on the inside fuse box
http://i.imgur.com/ziuq3N6.jpg

[Mechie3]

F60, F61: Front Engine Wiring Harness
http://i.imgur.com/08ft9o5.jpg

F6: RH Fog Light
http://i.imgur.com/gU9ZhTk.jpg

F126: RH Headlight
http://i.imgur.com/t8cZf3z.jpg

F16: Sub Fan Motor
http://i.imgur.com/3HRnnTC.jpg

F78: Ambient Temp Sensor
http://i.imgur.com/vLSgsfS.jpg

F102: Keyless Buzzer
http://i.imgur.com/liqN2hW.jpg

F5: Horn
http://i.imgur.com/JmL04Fc.jpg

[Mechie3]

F17: Main Fan Motor (radiator fan)
http://i.imgur.com/wiCzaBy.jpg

F47: Horn
http://i.imgur.com/e2HiL56.jpg

GB1, GB2: Grounds
http://i.imgur.com/FWl21kj.jpg

F125: LH Headlight
http://i.imgur.com/qowjr7d.jpg

F12: LH Foglight
http://i.imgur.com/7B6e3t6.jpg

F79: AC Pressure Switch
http://i.imgur.com/dPxUG8i.jpg

F130, F94: Airpump Ground, ABS Sensor
http://i.imgur.com/902rOMG.jpg

[Mechie3]

AB18: LH Front Airbag Sensor
http://i.imgur.com/8uwkf5L.jpg

AB14: LH Airbag sensor to harness
http://i.imgur.com/ujXRQ77.jpg

F40, F41: Fuse and relay box
http://i.imgur.com/KSTfVXo.jpg

F44: Front to bulkhead harness
http://i.imgur.com/ImjPQDz.jpg

F2, F74, F45: Front to bulkhead Harness
http://i.imgur.com/rvtiu4U.jpg

F46: Front to bulkhead wiring harness
http://i.imgur.com/qolR9kk.jpg

F32, F33: Washer Pump
http://i.imgur.com/hkh7gvK.jpg

[Mechie3]

F68: Main Fuse Box
http://i.imgur.com/zaY6Mw9.jpg

F38: Main Fuse Box
http://i.imgur.com/Jafwcnm.jpg

F37: Main Fuse Box
http://i.imgur.com/TXuwMMI.jpg

F36: Main Fuse Box
http://i.imgur.com/KUlxdh0.jpg

F35: Main Fuse Box
http://i.imgur.com/ILChhqR.jpg

F129: Secondary AC Relay Holder
http://i.imgur.com/2g6aVad.jpg

F25, F26: Alternator
http://i.imgur.com/tXfjUQO.jpg

[Mechie3]

F24: AC Compressor
http://i.imgur.com/CMcER4c.jpg

F39: Main Fuse Box
http://i.imgur.com/nvilpnb.jpg

[Mechie3]

Reserved

[Mechie3]

Reserved

[Mechie3]

Edited a bunch of the previously reserved posts. If I get a chance, I'll work on the front harness tonight. I need to move some trees though. Thankfully, the builder told me my property line was 20 feet past where it really is so I get to dig up and move trees I planted 4 years ago. [/sarcasm].

Once I finish documenting all of the connectors, I'll start tracing what can be cut off and where and do my best to document that. If it becomes too tedious, I may fall off in my documentation. The end goal is to have a set of instructions that anyone with an 06 WRX sedan/autoHVAC/nosunroof/Manualtrans can pick up and follow steps A to Z with minimal thought input.

[flynntuna]

This needs to be a sticky or in the wiki section.
Thanks. When it comes time to remove the harness from the donor, I'll make sure to slow down,label and take pictures of everything.

[longislandwrx]

Is the airbag buckle sensor different from the std idiot light buckle sensor?

I imagine it will need to be shorted, as well as something to turn off the ABS light.

[RM1SepEx]

Craig, Can I just unplug my immobilizer box? Nothing is happening when I turn the key right now, not sure if it has been activated... I need to dig into debug this week

[Mechie3]

Is the airbag buckle sensor different from the std idiot light buckle sensor?

I imagine it will need to be shorted, as well as something to turn off the ABS light.

Not sure. If you don't have a signal from any of the ABS you will trigger the ABS light. I plan to dig into the gauge cluster and see if I can't just remove the trace/bulb from the cluster itself. Diagrams show R245 as the only switch on the "seat belt warning system" diagram. On the 06 WRX, pin 18 of B99 can be shorted to ground. That lets you eliminate pin 18 of R3 and r245.


Craig, Can I just unplug my immobilizer box? Nothing is happening when I turn the key right now, not sure if it has been activated... I need to dig into debug this week

I don't think so. Module is Subaru's term for Magic Black box. The immobilzer circuit contains the immobiler module and the keyless entry module. The diagram doesn't specify inputs/output signals. The debug section might. It shows power going to the immobilizer, the immobilizer antenna plugs into the immobilizer, the keyless entry and ECU also plug into the immobilizer. Check the grounds as well. Immobilizer to B100/F2 to F60/E3 to a ground lug.

[RM1SepEx]

My key fob is very simple, only has a lock and unlock function, so I'm not sure what "immobilizer" functionality a 2005 WRX has... I don't see what I can do beyond hitting the unlock button and I've already stripped out all of that stuff.

When I attempted to start my rolled over WRX before disassembly it reacted exactly as it does now, nothing happened except the dash lit up. There was so much footwell damage from the accident that I couldn't depress the clutch so I didn't do any add'l debug, I just took it apart. :-(

So I'll start by checking to see if my clutch interlock switch is working...

Been too busy with other life stuff and processing a deer to work on the 818. Autocross season is done tho so more weekend time is available.

[Mechie3]

The RFID is in the body of the key. My 02 WRX key body is thin while my 06 is fat due to the RFID. It sends a signal automatically. If the RFID isn't picked up the car won't start. Its possible the immobilizer antenna isn't hooked up or that or the immobilizer itself was damaged.

[RM1SepEx]

and where would I find the antenna? to make sure it's still hooked up?

[Mechie3]

I think it's under the dash. I have a picture of the antenna connector B142 on the previous page.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I think it's under the dash. I have a picture of the antenna connector B142 on the previous page.
looks like its in the steering column near the key.
22575
I can email you the whole chapter on security MY06 if you want it.
Bob

[ScoobyJD]

Edited a bunch of the previously reserved posts. If I get a chance, I'll work on the front harness tonight. I need to move some trees though. Thankfully, the builder told me my property line was 20 feet past where it really is so I get to dig up and move trees I planted 4 years ago. [/sarcasm].

Once I finish documenting all of the connectors, I'll start tracing what can be cut off and where and do my best to document that. If it becomes too tedious, I may fall off in my documentation. The end goal is to have a set of instructions that anyone with an 06 WRX sedan/autoHVAC/nosunroof/Manualtrans can pick up and follow steps A to Z with minimal thought input.

I would tell the builder that he needs to move them since he did not tell you this before or at least help you move them!

[RM1SepEx]

I've been researching and it looks like my 05 doesn't have an immobilizer... only 05 STI... sound right to the Subaru gurus???

[Mechie3]

What does your key look like? Best bet is to get the 05 WRX wiring diagrams. Ken gilbert might have it (Google his name and Subaru).

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I've been researching and it looks like my 05 doesn't have an immobilizer... only 05 STI... sound right to the Subaru gurus???

Dan
I don't know if this help or not. In MY06 only turbos had immobilizers.
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

I've found photos on EBay and will search to verify that the module isn't there on my car. I've went over the wiring diagrams and to be honest that type of stuff is my biggest problem with my MS that I'm not good at dealing with. I have several areas of damage in my brain that make many memory problems an issue, making it impossible for me to work as an engineer. The physical stuff, numbness and pain, are easier to cope with... I'll keep puttering around as I feel up to it, I still have some of the easier mechanical stuff to work out. Trying to put a meter to a small pin is almost impossible with my numb hands and fingers. The good part, when I cut them I need to see blood to realize it!

[Mechie3]

My google searching says that in 05 only the STI came with the immobilzer, so you're probably good there.

There are two cables on the starter. The large cable and then a small single pole tab style connector that attaches to the magnet (i'm guessing that means servo). I'd make sure that's still attached. Try running battery power directly to the starter to see if it actually turns over. Get someone to help and put the key in start mode and see if the small connector on the starter is actually getting power as well. Lastly, verify the clutch interlock switch is disengaging properly.


For the 06 WRX, I've started to trace all the wiring diagrams and in Excel have been listing the connector name, what pins/wires can be removed, the color of the wire that is removed, what connector it connects to (if it's not an end of the line connector attaching to a sensor or ecu) and what the overall function it has (ie, passes signals from ECU to auto HVAC). Got about 200 lines right now. Will continue working on it today.

[Mechie3]

I made a boo boo. I noticed in some of the diagrams that shorting the door open switches would send a power source directly to ground. The diagram shows the switches being normally open. I assumed they were normally open in their free state. Turns out they're normally closed in their free state. The diagram showing it normally open implies the normal state is the door being shut. It makes it easier to delete the door chimes.

I think I'm 75% done documenting the harness itself. Still have a few connectors to document. Im up to over 400 wires that can be cut. Im going through everything and labeling optional deletes in case you want to leave things like door activated lights and noting where to cut a wire at a junction vs at a connector. At the same time, it eliminates the most amount of wire, not just connector ends.

[Xusia]

Craig. Thank you. Seriously, bro. That's a hell of an effort. I (and I assume others) really appreciate it. You rock!

[Mechie3]

Deleted post with old version of wiring guide. See first post for most recent version.

[Mechie3]

Started trimming my harness following my guide. Found a few additions and a few mistakes. Mainly connector b36 iirc. Unfortunately the diagrams are separated by systems and often showed a single line from the fusebox through an intermediate connector and then to the switch or sensor. In reality there's a single li e feeding the intermediate but the line coming off the other end eventually splits into multiples. I mostly started at the sensor and worked my way towards the fuse box but skipped ahead at b36. When I got to i3 (I think, going from memory here) I found j had cut two wires on b36 that needed to be there. Luckily I've been pulling pins so I could simply replace the pins and solder the free end back to the junction or insert the other Lin if it didn't terminate at a junction.

I'll update my spreadsheet and let you know when it's posted.

[Mechie3]

Uploaded 30 more pictures for the Front harness.

The 06 Has a funky dog leg on the Fuse box. I took mine apart and it looks as though all the components in the dog leg portion can be removed. If you make a new box you can have a much smaller box with no dogleg!!

I likely won't document the engine harness much, if at all. Most of the connectors remain connected to their respective parts (throttle body, injectors, etc) and aren't hard to identify. That, and my motor is in and I've already cut off several connectors and tossed them so I can't take pictures anyways.

[Mechie3]

Updated the first post and the wiring guide.
Items of note:

Added missing wire color info
Added some missing connector info
Corrected Connector B36 (do not remove pins 1, 5, or 17)
Reformated first post to make it easier to read and less of a wall of text.

[EODTech87]

I'd suggest making the following change

As always, perform this work at your own risk. I assume no liability for mistakes in this writeup, bad suggestions, or angry significant others as you try to have the smallest harness possible and spend too much time in the garage or take over the kitchen table because its to cold outside.

[Rasmus]

Mechie

Thank you. Twice.

R

[indiana818]

Great info looking forward to seeing your car soon
Kerry from lapel

[mekohler]

Thank you greatly, this has been very helpful. I have a question, as I am beginning to ID wires I could remove. B100 plug , Pin 4 and 17, you show you can remove, is this because you removed the air pumps? Thanks in advance.

[metalmaker12]

I'd suggest making the following change

As always, perform this work at your own risk. I assume no liability for mistakes in this writeup, bad suggestions, or angry significant others as you try to have the smallest harness possible and spend too much time in the garage or take over the kitchen table because its to cold outside.

Lol, that's why Craig took this over, my wife is already not very happy with me in the garage, never mind if I went in our kitchen.

[Mechie3]

I'll have to check those pins later but if they are for the air pump then yes ,I removed my air pump so didn't need the wires.

I took over my living room. My wife just rolled her eyes. Ever since I dried engine heads in the oven once and then built a motor in the kitched she's no longer surprised and doesn't fight it. Lol

[Mechie3]

Deleted incorrect info.

I got rid of a lot of things including:

HVAC
ABS
Airbags
Airpump
Purge Solenoids
Fog Lights
Rear Door Chimes

If you want to keep any of those, just read the description column. If it sounds like something you want, don't delete it. You can also download a PDF of the wiring diagram and do a search for the connector number and verify what it goes to.

[Xusia]

What is an air pump for?

[Mechie3]

What is an air pump for?


For pumping air.


:D



It's been a while so some of the details are fuzzy, but t runs until the coolant has reach 170 or for a set period after enging turn on. It pushes fresh air into the exhaust side of the heads to produce cleaner start up emissions and speed up the warming of the cat.

[Xusia]

Oh, so totally useless. Got it! ;)

[Mechie3]

The system on the 06 consists of a pump and 2 valves plus hardlines and rubber lines. If you remove it, block the ports on the back of the heads. The 07 has a single valve IIRC and a pressure sensor integrated into the valve. The pressure sensor can be cut out, but must stay plugged in.

[Xusia]

My donor is an '03, so it does not apply?

[Mechie3]

Correct. 06 was the first year for the WRX getting an airpump. STI's first got them in 07. Prior year WRX's had a cat in the uppipe while STI's had nothing.

[mekohler]

Thanks again, I have spent many hours now trimming the harness and I am 98% done. Your guide really helped, and cut the learning curve of reading the subaru wire doc. Couple of questions I have. Other wires going to the relays (Fog, Power window, etc) that are still there can be pulled correct? I assume so, but I would like a confirmation. Also Mechie, could you help me see how B100 pin 4 and 17 are associated with air pump? on page 44 of the WI Wiring Sys.pdf I see where it goes from ECU to Electronic Throttle and Engine Coolant Sensor, but I cannot figure out how see how those are used in relation to the air pump, sorry if I am being dense. Thank you again for all your help.
-Matthew

[Mechie3]

I could have made a mistake on the documentation. ;). I'll look over the wiring diagram again. There were some wires I removed on the relays. The subie documents make it difficult sometimes to figure out what relays are connected now. I do have an update to the document from the 23rd I haven't posted yet. I think it adds several of the relays. The relay block attached to the forward fuse block only has two relays left from the four or five it started with.

[Mechie3]

I went and checked my car. I actually deleted the entire B100/F2 connector and soldered the wires together directly. However, I do still have pins 20 (Sb) and 18 (RG) of F61 which correspond to B100 4 and 17. Thanks for pointing out my mistake. :D

Looking back, I think what I did was trace the diagram on pages 34 and 35 and then mixed that up with something else. My highlighted version is at work that shows what I verified. There were a few things I had missed.

B225 is the relay block where I removed quite a few things when I was double checking and verifying.


14 GW power window relay (coil) to IG relay
16 B Power window relay (coil) to ground
17 WG power window relay (power) to power window circuit breaker
18 GB power window relay (power) to switches
19 WB Foglight relay to Foglight
20 RL Foglight relay to FB-31 #7
21 BW Foglight relay to foglight switch
7 L Fuse
8 RB Fuse
37 RB Rear 12V acc
38 L Rear 12V acc
36 YR Rear 12V acc Cut at junction
34 B Rear 12V acc Cut at junction
29 RW Mirror heater relay
30 BY Mirror heater relay
33 RL Mirror heater relay
31 B Mirror heater relay Cut at junction
23 RG Foglight relay to foglight switch Cut at junction

[Mechie3]

Uploaded a new file. Removed the incorrect reference on B100 pins 4 and 17 to the air pump along with any other connectors along that path.

Also found an error on F61/E2 pin 15 where I improperly called the engine coolant sensor the ambient temp sensor.

[mxl]

Hello Mechie3, I just found your thread, Wiring Guide: 06 WRX Sedan with Auto AC/HVAC, WOW what a job you did there, with so many pictures, I'm sure lots of Subaru lover will appreciate. I have a problem and I'm sure you could help me very easly, I have a blue 2004 Wrx that I'm not driving over a year now, it all stared with a clutch change, and then all the crazy ideas that I had for a long time to transform it into a track car just came to reality. I live in Canada/Montreal, the car started to have light rust so I disassembled the hole car to the last screw and painted the undercarriage, under the hood, and also the interior in white, I put every thing back together (but no more interior plastics, rear seats and rear door panels, by the way I also have a roll cage to weld in, only waiting for spring, to cold now, I do not have a garage, I do all the work in my parking space) but that wiring was really bothering me, (specialy the fuse box under the hood and the battery, but that will by part 2) so a few weeks ago I decide to start to delete a bunch of interior useless things. My big mastake was that I did not mark all the plugs that I wanted to delete because I thot I would remember, but in the meantime I was in the hospital a few days and when a came back my memory was not so good, so I chopped the 3 green plugs that connect to the cluster thinking it was the radio plugs. Sorry for the long story but this is were I need your help, now I have 2 plugs a long White one and a short one, are these the radio ones that come from the thick harness behind the dash?

[mxl]

25056250572505825059250602506125062250632506425065

[mxl]

2506825069250702507125072 Thank you for your time!!!!

[Mechie3]

Those look like fuse box plugs to me from the interior fuse box. I can take a closer look later.

[mxl]

Thanks for responding so quick, these plugs are at the right side of the steering weel, very close were the radio would be...

[mxl]

2508225083250842508525086 Ps: "if these plugs" are for the radio the ends that are cut are the ones that connect direcly to the radio

[Mechie3]

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=25086&d=1389283684

The brown one might be i4. I don't have the 04 wiring diagram, but on the 06 it's listed as a brown connector with 24 pins laid out in 2 rows but it's only used if you have manual AC. Cars with auto AC use i1 instead of i4. i4 connects to B39 which is the bulkhead wiring harness.

I think the white one is i3 which connects to B38. If you look at the "instrument panel wiring harness" diagram on page 194 of the 06 wiring diagram you'll see that i2 is shown as dark and is right next to i3 on the same branch.

The radio connectors plug directly into the radio, there is no pigtail coming off of it.


The green ones you cut off were i10, i11, and i12.

[EODTech87]

MLX, the connectors that you are taking pictures of connect the instrument panel harness to the main body harness. The ones wrapped in foam are B36(Brown) and B37(White). The other 2 plugs on the pigtail that was cut plug into B36 and B37 and the cut off plugs plug into the instrument panel, the clock, and something else that I'll have to get back to you on. Most of the plugs that have been cut will need to be reattached in order to get the instrument cluster to work.

In the wiring guides the instrument panel is referred to as the combination meter btw.

I've been working very extensively on a 04 wiring harness so if you have other questions just ask and I'll help as much as possible.

[mxl]

Hello again Mechie3, I think I got'it, but if you can please confirm, I'm 99% sure that is were the cluster harness plugs, the ends that are cut are the ones that go direcly to the green cluster plugs, thanks again for your time...

[mxl]

by the time I was looking for pictures I did not notice that you had already anwser my question... thank you very much, in a Subaru forum I wold never get this quind of help, once again thanks

[mxl]

I'm very new in this forum, sorry my dumb question why if it's you in the link 'https://vimeo.com/46070474' are you chopping in pieces a Subie??? it almost brakes my heart to see that... some crazy project?

[mxl]

ok, I should've seen all the videos first, wow... nice machine!!! you really have some skills, love the sound of the first start.

[Mechie3]

I'm very new in this forum, sorry my dumb question why if it's you in the link 'https://vimeo.com/46070474' are you chopping in pieces a Subie??? it almost brakes my heart to see that... some crazy project?

Well....you are on the forum for the Factory Five 818, a kit car using the motor and transmission from a Subaru (among other parts). ;)

It was my daily driver/former autocross machine that got wrecked when a lady ran a red light. It was totaled by insurance. I bought it back specifically to build an 818.

here is my build thread:
http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/showthread.php?9077-Mechie3-s-818S

:)

[mxl]

MLX, the connectors that you are taking pictures of connect the instrument panel harness to the main body harness. The ones wrapped in foam are B36(Brown) and B37(White). The other 2 plugs on the pigtail that was cut plug into B36 and B37 and the cut off plugs plug into the instrument panel, the clock, and something else that I'll have to get back to you on. Most of the plugs that have been cut will need to be reattached in order to get the instrument cluster to work.

In the wiring guides the instrument panel is referred to as the combination meter btw.

I've been working very extensively on a 04 wiring harness so if you have other questions just ask and I'll help as much as possible.

Hello EODTech87, I want to thank you for the help you gave me, I got there by myself but the confirmation was very very useful and I also thought that was Mechie3 answering. once again thank you very much.

[mxl]

Hello here I am again... there are two plugs that I have no clue what they are for, please help!!! This is the first one, it is behind the dash passager side... 252362523725238252392524025241,

[mxl]

And this is the second one, again behind the dash but this time driver side, and it's together with the OBD 2 reader plug, (the gray one) PS: this is the wire harness of a 2004 wrx. thank you 25242252432524425245252462524725248

[Mechie3]

EOD could probably answer better as I haven't seen an 04 harness in person, but those look similar to the 06 radio connectors.

[mxl]

The gray one has a metal braket on it, and it's taped together with the OBD ll link, so I thing it's some plug that the dealer uses to get some extra info?! the white passager side i'm sure it does not plug to nothing but... not sure 100%

[EODTech87]

I'll double check when I get back home tonight but I'm pretty sure the white plug with 18 pins is for a keyless entry module however on my car it wasn't used. Instead there is another plug on the driver side that looks the exact same that's plugged into the keyless entry module. The pictures of the second plug aren't working but it's probably a diagnostic connector used to diagnose the airbag and abs systems.

[mxl]

I'll double check when I get back home tonight but I'm pretty sure the white plug with 18 pins is for a keyless entry module however on my car it wasn't used. Instead there is another plug on the driver side that looks the exact same that's plugged into the keyless entry module. The pictures of the second plug aren't working but it's probably a diagnostic connector used to diagnose the airbag and abs systems.

Thank you very much EODTech87

[mxl]

252562525725258252592526025261 I put again the pictures because therewere some problems with the upload...

[EODTech87]

That grey 14 pin plug is in fact a check connector that I'm guessing is used by the dealership for diagnostics.

[mxl]

That grey 14 pin plug is in fact a check connector that I'm guessing is used by the dealership for diagnostics.

Hello again, you are right about the keyless entry unit being on the driver side, I double check and the white plug that I was asking for in the passager side is the exact same (but the color of the wires is different and only has 13 wires vs 18), any other idea what it can be for??? ,about that gray plug (driver side) do you think it can be totaly deleted? I do not have airbags or abs, what do you say?

[EODTech87]

Ok so I believe the keyless entry unit plug on the passenger side is some sort of diagnosis or programming connector used by the dealership. It wasn't connected to anything on my car so I'd assume it can be fully deleted if your deleting the keyless entry system as well. The grey connector next to the OBD port is a check connector that plugs into the ABS and Airbag system for diagnosing these systems. I'd assume this can be fully deleted as well if your deleting those systems.

While I say these can be deleted I have no proof that is 100% correct so please proceed at your own risk.

[mxl]

Ok so I believe the keyless entry unit plug on the passenger side is some sort of diagnosis or programming connector used by the dealership. It wasn't connected to anything on my car so I'd assume it can be fully deleted if your deleting the keyless entry system as well. The grey connector next to the OBD port is a check connector that plugs into the ABS and Airbag system for diagnosing these systems. I'd assume this can be fully deleted as well if your deleting those systems.

While I say these can be deleted I have no proof that is 100% correct so please proceed at your own risk.

In this moment I deleted completly the gray plug I checked with a very reliable source, and it's in fact a dealership diagnose plug, now the white other plug "my guy" has no idea what I was talking about, I was very surprised!!! and it's now down to 8 wires of 13, after deleting the gray plug, the keyless entry unit, and the cru unuit assy, not sure what to do about that plug...

[EODTech87]

Let me know what pins are left and the wire color and I'll get back to you.

[Zodiac]

Ok so I also got a 06 wrx limited and going through the harness do we need the fuel tank sensor valve (R144), drain valve (R69), and pressure control solenoid (R68)?? Also there is a fuel level sensor for the fuel pump and then a sub level one from the donor. are we splicing all of these together into the kit or just one or the other?

[nkw8181]

My r122 looks different and I can't find b46. I scratched my head for awhile trying to figure it out. From what I can tell my 06 Wrx tr (manual ac) does not follow the manual Page wi-36. Pin 3 from r122 does not split off. Here is what my r122 looks like or at least that is what I think.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

My r122 looks different and I can't find b46. I scratched my head for awhile trying to figure it out. From what I can tell my 06 Wrx tr (manual ac) does not follow the manual Page wi-36. Pin 3 from r122 does not split off. Here is what my r122 looks like or at least that is what I think.

Hi nkw
The connecter in your picture is R58 which plugs into the fuel pump assembly.
R122 plugs into the fuel pump control module (small grey box mounted under plastic in trunk).

B46 is under the dash. There is 3 heavy duty relay mounted to a bracket.

http://i.imgur.com/jqcK0gE.jpg[/url]
Bob

[nkw8181]

Thanks! It amazing how much clearer things look after a night of sleep and of course good feedback from you guys����

[nkw8181]

So I got a question for ya Mechie3. On the B136 connector did you completely remove the pin 16 (refered to as c16)? I originally traced the line from the occupant module and notice that it joins with a wire going to B136, the abs pump, keyless entry and data link connector. I'm inclined to believe that this is an open circuit and when someone is present it closes the loop and sends the signal to all places. Is there any flaw to this logic since it is late. Or better yet did you remove this line and everywhere it went? Oh and one I'm done I'll send you my notes. I tried to highlight the differences when doing a 06 wrx tr so you can incorporate it. Been checking everything as well :-) great job by the way.

[nkw8181]

B136 ie one of the ECM connectors for others following.

[yorel]

Needing to find out what this box is. Please see pics. I have looked different places but have not seen any reference to this box. It was located in the trunk on the passenger side above the fender well.26388

[Mechie3]

Fuel pump relay. Keep it.

[yorel]

Thank you very much Mechie3. Most definitely will keep that.

[yorel]

So there is more than one fuel pump relay? Is the one I pictured the main one, then the round one depicted on the first page is secondary? Trying to understand it.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

So there is more than one fuel pump relay? Is the one I pictured the main one, then the round one depicted on the first page is secondary? Trying to understand it.


The module in post 110 is actually the fuel pump controller.
There is a signal from the ECU that goes to this module to control pump speed.
A lot of people will just run power to the pump when the key is on and not use this module.
I am going to use the module.
Bob

.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

http://thefactoryfiveforum.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=27173&d=1395568301


27173

Does any body know how to get the small pins out of the ECU connectors? I need to change some around to get the ECU to understand that the automatic transmission is gone and I need to add a wire for the clutch switch.
Bob

[Mechie3]

I wasn't able to get any out.

[nkw8181]

I wasn't able to either :( good luck and let us know what you come up with.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

I wasn't able to either :( good luck and let us know what you come up with.
At this point I have 3 options as far as getting those pins out.
1. I've searched all over with no luck. Search some more.
2. destroy a connector on a spare harness to steel a pin.
3. Open the ECU box and add a jumper on the inside. (easy)
Bob

[Xusia]

Hey Bob! Why not just cut the wires you want to change the pins on, and reconnect/jumper from there? I know the color going into the connector wouldn't be right, but you could make that part REALLY short. Or am I overlooking something??

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Hey Bob! Why not just cut the wires you want to change the pins on, and reconnect/jumper from there? I know the color going into the connector wouldn't be right, but you could make that part REALLY short. Or am I overlooking something??

Hi Brian, There are open holes that need wires, I can't get any of the unneeded pins out.
The problem hole is the one that tells the ECU that the transmission is a manual. That wire is missing in my automatic harness.
Bob

[RM1SepEx]

grab a manual ecu harness? many have went the Route of Wayne and Erik.... plenty available, pretty much any year

[Bob_n_Cincy]

grab a manual ecu harness? many have went the Route of Wayne and Erik.... plenty available, pretty much any year
It would have to be an 04 FXT or 04 STI manual harness w/avcs & DBW to match every thing I have. I have to much effort into the harness I have to go that route. Thanks, Bob

[nkw8181]

hey I got some connectors from Radio Shack and the pins may slide in depending on which you are looking at. trying to be helpful.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

hey I got some connectors from Radio Shack and the pins may slide in depending on which you are looking at. trying to be helpful.
Hi Nolan,
I'm looking for a pin remover the connector back on post 115.
I suspect the pins you got a radio shack are for Molex or Amp connectors.
I have no clue of the manufacture of the ECU connector is, but I'm pretty sure it is not on of those.
Thanks for your help.
Bob

[Xusia]

Hi Brian, There are open holes that need wires, I can't get any of the unneeded pins out.
The problem hole is the one that tells the ECU that the transmission is a manual. That wire is missing in my automatic harness.
Bob

Is it also missing on the ECU side, or is the connector soldered onto the ECU board?

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Is it also missing on the ECU side, or is the connector soldered onto the ECU board?
All the pins are there on the ECU side.
I could bring a wire out of the side of the ecu box.
Bob

[Xusia]

Given the situation, that's what I would do.

[iWire]

Pulling the pins out of these is pretty much impossible without the correct tool. You need to find a basic pin removal tool that is flat. Then take a bench grinder/dremel etc to it until you get the width/thickness small enough to fit in the lower slot of the plug(about an inch of depth should be enough). If you get it right, you just push it all the way in and it'll unlock and the pin should slide out. I had the actual Subaru tool, it worked, but was flimsy and broke pretty quickly. The hand made one has served me better.

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Pulling the pins out of these is pretty much impossible without the correct tool. You need to find a basic pin removal tool that is flat. Then take a bench grinder/dremel etc to it until you get the width/thickness small enough to fit in the lower slot of the plug(about an inch of depth should be enough). If you get it right, you just push it all the way in and it'll unlock and the pin should slide out. I had the actual Subaru tool, it worked, but was flimsy and broke pretty quickly. The hand made one has served me better.

Thanks IWire
I had almost gave up on finding a solution to this.

I'm looking at Mcmaster part
http://www.mcmaster.com/#4253k14/=rbqw0j

it is 20 x 40 mils
It might be to soft but it worth a try.
Can you measure your tool to see if this is the right size.
Bob

[iWire]

Here is a picture, I don't have calipers to get a real measurement. I think that would be too soft. You just need a tool that is a decent metal you can modify it without it breaking.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d123/keenerrs/2014-03-31124625_zps9aac6150.jpg

[Goldwing]

I think this is R26 (RH taillight):
27871

I noticed it was eerily similar to R24. See PM. :)

Great write up.

[Goldwing]

I have an '07 donor (sedan, man A/C, wrx, 5spd, no sunroof or heated seats) and can say that your thread was entirely usable with very few differences. So similar it doesn't warrant a separate thread. I guess that's kind of predictable with the 06-07 similarities. Here are a few differences or additions to Mechie3's stellar write up.

B8 (wiper motor) is gray in 07, otherwise the same with the same color wires.

I didn't find the black multi pin connector between the front and bulkhead harnesses in '07 which could be an option difference with more of a base model car in my case.

One of the engine harness connectors is larger in '07, but self-evident.

Additions I may have missed above:
B18 upstream O2
27888

B127 Wastegate Control Solenoid
27889

B3 Mass Airflow Sensor
27890

F127 Air Pump (emissions)
27891

I couldn't figure out what this was on the branch with the engine harnesses and most of the above.
27892
27893
Still working on it.

Thank you again Mechie3 for the huge service to us in taking the time to put this all in the forum. It is a tremendous service to other builders. In short, you rock!

EDIT: 7-15-14 That last connector is B5 for the daytime running light resistor.

[Mechie3]

:) Thanks for the additions. I didn't have some of those (deleted a long time ago) so it's helpful to have those.

The 07 harness is a bit different in the engine bay. Where the 06 had two connectors the 07 had 1 massive connector.

[AZPete]

Rich, I believe the terminal you asked about connects to a front ABS sensor. The left front ABS sensor has black & white wires; the right sensor has blue & green wires.

Thanks to Mechie3 I have identified all terminals except this white one.
27992

And, my donor is 2006 WRX Sedan with MANUAL A/C so I found three terminals that are not in Mechie3's photos of the auto A/C:

27993
27994
27995

Again, thank you Mechie3. Thank you for all your work posting photos of the terminals !!

[Goldwing]

Pete , that little guy doesn't even look familiar. I'll watch out for it. My mystery connector is larger than the ABS connectors. It's more the size if the alternator plug. I gave the wires a break to get my firewall sorted. Back at the wires soon.

[freds]

Impact Sensor B423 I believe.


Thanks to Mechie3 I have identified all terminals except this white one.
Click image for larger version.

Name: white 8 pole.jpg

ID: 27992

[Mechie3]

I have the impact sensor so I could verify that tonight.

[AZPete]

Detective Freds solved the mystery! The white plug with 8 poles & 6 wires I asked about in Post #134 above is B423. On page 185 of the wiring diagram B423 is listed as 5 pole, which is an error, so I didn't identify it. Now I see that B423 is shown on page 170 as 8 pole with 6 wires, which is correct. I even confirmed the colors of the wires to confirm. It connects to the security system impact sensor so I don't need it but at least the mystery is solved!

[Goldwing]

Looking over the fuel tank harness, I never labeled them after going through the guide, so there's opportunity to identify a few here we have to work with while identifying wires. Many aren't used directly, but can help in identifying wires to wire the fuel level sender (need to grab a wire from the fuel pump plug and the sub level sender since the 818 uses one sender and the wrx uses two added resistance sensors). Anyway, a few that I thought could be helpful:

R58 - Fuel pump Assembly (Black Redwhite Blueblack Blackyellow Blackwhite Blue)
28393

R59 - Sub fuel level sender (Brownwhite Blue)
28394

R47 - Fuel tank pressure sensor (Red Redyellow Greenorange)
28395

R68 - Pressure control solenoid valve (YG)
28396

[C.Plavan]

Anyone know what there two connectors are for near the ALT?
http://i.imgur.com/Xrw9Ksbl.png

And this one near the turbo (I think its just a ground, but to what?)
http://i.imgur.com/VEXPSfsl.png

[Bob_n_Cincy]

Anyone know what there two connectors are for near the ALT?
http://i.imgur.com/Xrw9Ksbl.png



Chad
Not sure, but based on the location,
The single looks like power steering pressure switch. Check to see if Red/Yellow wire.
The 2 pin looks like purge control solenoid valve, Check for Red wire and green/yellow wire.
Bob

[Mechie3]

The one in the first picture is indeed the powersteering. I don't quite recognize the other one.

[07FIREBLADE]

It's for the purge solenoid. The 2 wire one by proximity and I was just working on that system today.

[C.Plavan]

Exactly what they are. I should of remembered the purge valve connector.....I uninstalled all that stuff 3 weeks ago- haha.
Thanks guys.

[Mechie3]

I thought the purge solenoid had a different connector. I do remember the boost solenoid having a ground lug bolted to the top of it. I can't find any pictures though and mine isn't stock.

[Mechie3]

I found my spare stock boost solenoid. It has a simlar black wire and single connector on it. Not quite the same.

http://i.imgur.com/3XRd73Y.jpg

[Triathletedave]

Looking over the fuel tank harness, I never labeled them after going through the guide, so there's opportunity to identify a few here we have to work with while identifying wires. Many aren't used directly, but can help in identifying wires to wire the fuel level sender (need to grab a wire from the fuel pump plug and the sub level sender since the 818 uses one sender and the wrx uses two added resistance sensors). Anyway, a few that I thought could be helpful:

R58 - Fuel pump Assembly (Black Redwhite Blueblack Blackyellow Blackwhite Blue)
28393

R59 - Sub fuel level sender (Brownwhite Blue)
28394

R47 - Fuel tank pressure sensor (Red Redyellow Greenorange)
28395

R68 - Pressure control solenoid valve (YG)
28396


Can anyone tell me what to do with R59? I don't need two fuel level sensors, but if I delete this then the main fuel level circuit is also broken. Do I simply short these 2 wires together and use the main wires on R58 for the FFR fuel level sensor unit?

Edit: read the previous post again. To clarify, I use 1 wire from R58, and 1 wire from R59, and delete the wire that connects R58 to R59?

[palomino]

I am doing the harness now.
What can't I deleted from the 4 doors?
I know I will have to short the door sensors but what else do I need to keep?
I need to get rid of a lot of wires so I can make sense of this nightmare.

[Mechie3]

I don't remember if you short the doors or just delete the door chimes. I the no they might be normally open. Otherwise delete whatever you want if you don't want power mirrors or power locks.

[iblackwe]

Hey Mechie, Did you ever confirm whether you could delete the DRL (magic black box)? And the various light relays? (I am thinking that anything light related should be kept?) I am assuming that you can delete the blower motor relay?

Thanks for the help!

[Frank818]

Frank 818 would be proud of me though. :D

Ha!! Just saw this! :)
Of course I am!! Keep up the great work! I know you are far from home right now, but you'll be back to continue that work. :)


What were we discussing back then? :)

[Mechie3]

Hello iblackwe,
I haven't touched the wiring since I started the car way back when. I had enough of it so moved onto the body. Once that is complete I'll finish up the wiring.

Frank...I have no idea. HAHAHA!

[07FIREBLADE]

You can delete the blower motor relay for sure, if you have any questions you should call Brian at iWire, he can answer all of your questions.

[TrickyPete]

I'm starting on the wire harness and just had a question. I'm almost certain but I would feel a lot better with another opinion. The wires wrapped in mustard yellow tape are all part of the airbag system correct? These all have bright yellow connectors.

[Mechie3]

Correct. The yellow is all airbags though be careful. I thought I remember a shared ground or two so just trace it to look for them.

[TrickyPete]

Correct. The yellow is all airbags though be careful. I thought I remember a shared ground or two so just trace it to look for them.

Thanks. I am not confident in my wiring abilities at all. But.... I'm going to give it a shot. I pulled all the tape off everything and used zipties loosely to hold it together in its original shape to make it easier to cut stuff out.

[TouchStone]

Wiring Delete Guide:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B3e_x5F4WA06elA5bGtTamR2Y1E/edit?usp=sharing
Last updated 12-31-2013


If you find errors, fixes, or info to add please let me know

Can you send me the google spread sheet or excel file of this document. I want to integrate pictures directly into this document, and make notes for a 2003 WRX Wagon.

[suttonb3]

41799
Anybody know what this is and what to do with it?

[matteo92065]

41799
Anybody know what this is and what to do with it?

Its the daytime headlight dimmer. You can look it up in the FSM as connector "B5", "Daytime Running Light Resistor".
Funny thing is you can find them on Ebay listed as Fuel injection components.

Edit: What to do with it? I kept it, and installed it. Or you can jumper the wires and your DRLs will not be dimmer during the day.
It will not work unless you keep the "Daytime Running Light Control Module" (B96) that controls the "Daytime Running Light Relay" (B102).

[TouchStone]

That is the DRL (Daytime Running Lights) resistor. It is used to run your lights at low power at all times. If you want it keep it, if not then you can also delete the DRL module.

[Mechie3]

Can you send me the google spread sheet or excel file of this document. I want to integrate pictures directly into this document, and make notes for a 2003 WRX Wagon.

I just saw this. PM me your email and I'll send it to you.

[suttonb3]

Thanks for the quick replies, guys!

[billjr212]

Its the daytime headlight dimmer. You can look it up in the FSM as connector "B5", "Daytime Running Light Resistor".
Funny thing is you can find them on Ebay listed as Fuel injection components.

Edit: What to do with it? I kept it, and installed it. Or you can jumper the wires and your DRLs will not be dimmer during the day.
It will not work unless you keep the "Daytime Running Light Control Module" (B96) that controls the "Daytime Running Light Relay" (B102).

Dang it. I never even checked that against the wiring diagram but you are absolutely correct. I would have jumpered past it. Oh well, kept it in place because the internet told me it was related to the fuel injection system (that's what pops up when you google the part number on it). Think of the grams I could have saved! Rasmus would be very disappointed in me right now. Guess I have a winter "project" for next year.

[nkw8181]

bump for an amazingly helpful thread!!

[matteo92065]

It seems so long ago, that I was studying this thread.

When I first started going through the harness, I took all of Craig's pictures and put the plug numbers and his comments on the picture. It was very helpful for me as I could quickly flip through the pictures to identify the plugs. Using the PDF factory manual, and searching plug number, was a huge time saver. I could up load them all if it would be helpful for others. Here are a few:
43285 43286 43287 4328843289 43290 43291

[nkw8181]

I'm back on this thread now they in putting the wiring in the car. Was here over a year ago when I stripped down my harness and labeled all the connectors ( or almost all) and find this page is great to use the find tool in and search for something. Thanks again for all the hard work you put in making this thread.

[Triathletedave]

After a lengthy absence, I am trying to complete the wiring on my car. I'm trying to determine where connector B70 (combination switch) plugs into. I cannot find the mate for this plug on the steering column. Am I missing something very simple?

Regards,

Dave

[TouchStone]

After a lengthy absence, I am trying to complete the wiring on my car. I'm trying to determine where connector B70 (combination switch) plugs into. I cannot find the mate for this plug on the steering column. Am I missing something very simple?

Regards,

Dave

B70 is for your wiper switch/selector. The arm is detachable from the column.

[Triathletedave]

B70 is for your wiper switch/selector. The arm is detachable from the column.

So it attaches to the arm? Do I have to take the steering upper column cover off to get to it? Nothing appears visible on the column itself. I have the same issue with B71..

[Triathletedave]

B70 is for your wiper switch/selector. The arm is detachable from the column.

Ok, I thinkI have it sorted. Thanks! I originally thought that these connectors were much lower on the column on wire connectors, not connecting directly to the switch body.

[Hal0mann]

Were you able to verify the connections where you put "Delete (not sure if all/some" or "Some wires may be trimmed. More info later." ???

[Mechie3]

No. I wasn't able to go back and look at it. Generally just follow the wire and make sure there isn't a junction in the middle of it. I found lots of those.

[Scargo]

Monumental effort! Thanks.

[turbomacncheese]

like

[AZPete]

I'm just bringing this thread to the top because it is a life-saver for anyone working with the donor electrical system. It's based on a 2006 donor but much of it also applies to other model years.

[turbomacncheese]

Ha, I was just about to start looking for this. With any luck, I'll be into brake lines and wiring this weekend.

[turbomacncheese]

Same model here. HID Relay B371. Book claims pin 1 as V and sends it to the FB-9 power circuit. My relay (confirmed by ipassgass) has RG and sends it to a splice on B152(fuse block)/B102(tail light relay) which gets power from FB-3. Maybe a mid-year change or something left over from a previous/alternate version of the diagram.

[turbomacncheese]

Also seems like a good time to add that the security horn doesn't seem to be included in the 2006 models, along with the relay for it. Subaru kept the plugs, though, so don't let that throw you.

Similarly, the alarm system shock sensor seems to be a dealer add-on upgrade, so I wasted a bunch of time assuming I'd lost it.

[fletch]

This thread is gold... pure gold. Thank you, Craig.

Just a quick note about the door switches. I would call those switches "normally closed (NC)" switches. By which I mean, when the switch is in its mechanically relaxed state it conducts electrically. I verified this via a simple conductivity test with a VOM. What this means is that when all the doors are closed, all their switches are electrically open. Whenever any door is opened, the spring in its switch relaxes and it enters its normal state (closed). This completes the circuit and tells the Body Integrated Module to turn on the cabin light. What's your point, Brian???? In order to "delete" the rear door switches, just remove them and whatever wiring you like -- do not short the wires around the removed switch or your BIM will think your rear doors are always open.

[FFRWRX]

So oversimplifying it, I pull the harness out of my car, strip out all the connectors and wires identified as not being needed, tidy up what is left, and put it back in? Is that about right? I have the same year and the harness is in the 818 and it is running, but I really don't like all the wires, so I want to simplify it. I've considered all the options (iWire harness if they make some more, Wayne's (VCP) harness, make one from scratch using a Coach-1 or similar kit to start with). So I think I'm going to go this route.

I don't know if I would have gone this way if I didn't find this thread, so thank you very much!

Rick

[Ajzride]

So oversimplifying it, I pull the harness out of my car, strip out all the connectors and wires identified as not being needed, tidy up what is left, and put it back in? Is that about right? I have the same year and the harness is in the 818 and it is running, but I really don't like all the wires, so I want to simplify it. I've considered all the options (iWire harness if they make some more, Wayne's (VCP) harness, make one from scratch using a Coach-1 or similar kit to start with). So I think I'm going to go this route.

I don't know if I would have gone this way if I didn't find this thread, so thank you very much!

Rick

You wouldn't have made it very far down a Coach-1/Painless/AAW path without this thread either.

[FFRWRX]

Reading over all this information, and other threads, it looks like the keyless entry and body control units and all associated wires can be removed. The only possible issue with the body control module removal would be the lighting to the instrument cluster, which can be addressed. There are a lot of wires connected to those modules so they look like good candidates for tidying things up. Anyone removed those units and found a problem?

Rick

[FFRWRX]

If it is not appropriate to be posting my questions in this thread, please let me know.

I've used the info here to take about 10 lbs out of the harness. The airbag stuff was already removed when I got the car, so I think that is a pretty good amount taken out. But I would like to cut out the wires that apparently run back on themselves through the center console area. From what I've read there are about 30 wires, so 60 runs taking up room in that area. The problem is that the harness seems to be such a tangled mess. Is it possible to lay it out so I can clearly see which wires are running back on themselves?

Right now I've got it laying in place with the forward stuff at the front and the engine/rear circuits at the back. But there is a huge tangle in the middle that doesn't seem like it can be straightened out. I can't see how to identify what is running back over itself. I guess that is why all of that was just jammed into the center console area when I got the car.

Any advise would be appreciated.

Rick

130306

[Ajzride]

I bought heat shrink labels, cut a wire, label both ends (101, 102, 103...). Untangle it, then delete or trim and solder back together.

[aquillen]

In my view there is no magic bullet to finding and dealing with the loop-back extras. You have to pick one and mark it somehow - label, tape tag, ty-wrap, etc. - whatever you have that you find easy and won't get confusing, then dig and follow it around and decide what to do with any branches it has. Using any type of just marked up tape (except real wire labeling tape) is risky - they fall off, gum up, get hard to read or don't make the same sense they did when you first marked them - so if you go that route think it over and be careful so you don't get caught out later with lost or confusing info you generated.

My method is pick a connector and work it wire by wire until you've run all of them down and processed what has to happen for those wires. I used that process and would put a ty-wrap on that connector to flag it "done" eventually. When I hit another connector for that wire's "far end", I would put a ty-wrap on that particular wire so I knew I had been there and it's done. To be anal about it, when I did cut out a section I made a note on paper about it to help me figure out what the heck I messed up later on.

You can crimp or solder splice and your choice there should be based on your soldering skills, understanding of solder joint flex limitations, etc., or your preference of splicing and so on. Both methods can be failure prone if not done correctly, every time, every joint. If you create an intermittent connection know that you'll learn or make up new cuss words later on.

You know by now that a wire color could turn up used more than once, can't just find a color and expect it to be all one long branch of copper, so that doesn't help you weed out anything.

[FFRWRX]

I decided it was a good idea to hook up the harness and make sure the engine runs before I start cutting and shortening wires. Good thing, because it doesn't run. It cranks fine, but won't fire. I did keep finding grounds that I had missed (man, there are a lot of them), but I think I have them all now. I pulled a coil wire and don't have a spark, so that at least narrows things down.

I don't know that it has anything to do with these connectors, but I can't identify them. First one (a blurry first picture but the second picture is the same connector. It comes from a branch going to the steering column:

130584
130585

The other one I can't identify (from the front part of the harness):

130586
130587

The last one is in the engine area, left side:

130588

Since the engine will crank but not fire, I hooked up my OBDII scanner to read the codes. The scanner gave an error that it couldn't connect. That's never happened before, so that is another clue that maybe I removed a wire that I shouldn't have.

One last question. If it is something to do with the immobilizer (it is a 2006 Impreza WRX) would it crank? I think I can smell fuel after it has been cranking.


Rick

edit: coil red leads have power with ignition on, so it seems like the ECU is not letting the coils fire. I must be missing an input. And I've removed the Keyless Entry Module and the Body Control Module.

[Ajzride]

Do you have the immobilized light hooked up on the dash? That will help you diagnose if it is the issue.

[aquillen]

If the ECU was not sending ignition to the plugs it would not send fuel pulses to the injectors either (AFAIK). If you are getting fuel pumped into the cylinders but no spark, check the ground paths on the coils since you checked the 12V side. If good then ring back your ign coil wires to the ECU. Check your ECU plugs are fully seated.

[FFRWRX]

The "security" light is connected and flashing when everything is off. I just tried it again to see what the light does and it is on steady while cranking. I assume that is an issue? Does the immobilizer let the engine crank but not fire? If it is this preventing starting, what could I have done to cause this?

I'm not 100% sure I am getting fuel, but think I smelled it. I'll check the grounds again. There were 2 large ones on the intake manifold, and now there is only one; I think the other one was for the air pump system. I traced a couple of the OBDII leads back to the ECU to try and see why that wouldn't connect. I'll trace the rest of them. That seems strange to me that it wouldn't connect and always used to, but may or may not have anything to do with it not starting.

I just read on-line that if there is an issue with the immobilizer system the car will start but die within 3 seconds. Anyone know if this is true? If so, then that isn't my issue since the car won't fire up at all.

Thank you very much for the suggestions.

[Ajzride]

Mine would never start when the immobilizer light was flashing. Turn over but never fire. Sounds like an immobilizer issue to me. Check the grounds on the immobilizer.

[FFRWRX]

OK, a dumb question then.........where is the immobilizer? Is it a physical unit? I thought it was part of the ECU programming.

[Ajzride]

It is a stand alone unit with two wires running to the ECU, two wires running to the key cylinder, plus some other wires. I think it is under the column if installed in the factory location.

I can get you pictures and wire colors tomorrow, but traveling and working from my phone only today.

[FFRWRX]

You guys are good! Got it running. The immobilizer antenna was not plugged in.

The antenna is the ring around the key switch. There are 2 wires going to the light and 2 going to the antenna. According to the wiring diagram the 2 antenna wires are supposed to be white and red, but mine are both black. EDIT: they are white and red after the connector. It is these 2 twisted wires:

130657

I traced them down to the 2 pin connector and found it wasn't connected. Looked around and found the mating connector coming from the plastic ABS box. Plugged it in and it fired right up.

So thank you again. Now I can get back to cutting out more wires.

OBDII still doesn't connect, but not too concerned with that right now.

Rick

[fletch]

The last one is in the engine area, left side:

130588



Might be too late to matter and I'm working from memory here... you get the point.
I think that's the Secondary Air Combi valve connector. Also in the "valve" is the atmospheric pressure sensor so you might be needing that input for your ECU to be happy. I haven't researched it but I know others have preserved that sensor even when deleting the secondary air system.

[Ajzride]

My car seems to run fine without the atmospheric sensor (PO threw it away), but I haven't pushed it hard yet, just rolling around the block.

[FFRWRX]

I think that's the Secondary Air Combi valve connector. Also in the "valve" is the atmospheric pressure sensor so you might be needing that input for your ECU to be happy. I haven't researched it but I know others have preserved that sensor even when deleting the secondary air system.

You might be right on that. I didn't think it was long enough to reach the air pump (I assume that's where it would go....my air pump is gone). Found this in the wiring diagram:

130849

I assume the pressure sensor is something to do with the Secondary Air system and not something the engine needs to run, so if the Secondary Air system and pump are removed it is likely OK to not have the sensor hooked up. Guessing a bit here, but I think that makes sense.

[Ajzride]

I tried a cheap GM MAP sensor, but it was calibrated wrong. I think a 4-bar sensor would work, but those are $65. Until I determine that the ECU actually needs it, it's unhooked.

[octobersknight]

I will add on my praise for this thread. It was a huge time-saver last winter when I started dieting the harness. Now that I'm wrestling that octopus in the car, I still find myself referring back to it when I encounter missing labels or things that seem really out of place.

[hartwellguy]

Has anyone used the Solderseal splice connectors? https://solderseal.com/ They look like a great solution but too good to be true?

BTW, this is my first post on this forum, but so far it has helped me tons!

[Wayne Presley]

Has anyone used the Solderseal splice connectors? https://solderseal.com/ They look like a great solution but too good to be true?

BTW, this is my first post on this forum, but so far it has helped me tons!

I use heat shrink adhesive lined crimp connectors exclusively. Solder joint and anything that vibrates will fail over time

[Ajzride]

I have used the solder seal almost exclusively on my 818 after having good luck with them on my mustang. However, as Wayne stated, solder can get brittle where it vibrates, so I don't just slide the wires in and heat up the sleeve like they show on youtube. I actually slide the solder seal down past the connection, twist both wires together (like for a wire nut), then fold them back down on one side of the wire and slide the solder seal back up and heat it. It basically becomes an adhesive heat shrink sleeve at that point, but with some low temp solder to help it hold and help with the conductance.

[Scargo]

I was always taught to do a mechanical joint before soldering. If a wire is in a bundle, wrapped and supported then I would not hesitate to use those. I use them. Otherwise I would crimp as Wayne suggests. I've never had issues with twisting, soldering and using shrink tubing. Often I have crimped, soldered and wrapped connector ends (like ring tongues) for extra insurance.
Funny, how I got the notice about these new posts and I just started dieting an engine harness yesterday for my Fozzy.

[hartwellguy]

I use heat shrink adhesive lined crimp connectors exclusively. Solder joint and anything that vibrates will fail over time

Thanks Wayne. Any recommendations on brand/source?

[DSR-3]

McMaster Carr has everything known to man, Waytek has lots of wiring products.

[hartwellguy]

I have a couple of questions that I am hoping someone can help me with.

1. Are most of you locating the main fuse box (M/B) in the engine compartment, left side? Are you keeping the big plastic enclosure that it was in? Any photos would be appreciated.

2. I'm thinking of locating the ECU inside the passenger compartment, behind the driver's seat. Anyone done it this way? I have seen several posts where it has been located in the triangular space, but seems like the firewall would cover it up, making it pretty inaccessible and subject to heat buildup. Did FF change the location of the firewall at some point?

Thanks to all in advance. Can't imagine building this car without this forum!

[STiPWRD]

I have a couple of questions that I am hoping someone can help me with.

1. Are most of you locating the main fuse box (M/B) in the engine compartment, left side? Are you keeping the big plastic enclosure that it was in? Any photos would be appreciated.

2. I'm thinking of locating the ECU inside the passenger compartment, behind the driver's seat. Anyone done it this way? I have seen several posts where it has been located in the triangular space, but seems like the firewall would cover it up, making it pretty inaccessible and subject to heat buildup. Did FF change the location of the firewall at some point?

Thanks to all in advance. Can't imagine building this car without this forum!

My fuse boxes are under the dash:
139413

ECU is behind the passenger seat, the firewall does in fact cover it up. It's not exactly accessible, although it doesn't really need to be. I'm also running another firewall to separate the ECU and fuel tank from the engine bay, this insulates it from the engine heat.
139414139418

[RPGs818SNA]

From reading the forum and examining the wires, I decided to mount the black main fuse panel and the tan fuse panel in the front under the dash to cut down on the number of wires needing lengthening. However, I decided to add air conditioning, so I moved them to the very front of the center console. Like others, I cut the black 6 relay holder down to 3 and placed it behind the tan fuse panel. I did have to do a lot of wire shortening to clean things up.
139430
My ECU is in the upper right corner of the engine compartment per the manual. I don’t think accessibility is necessary, but I may have to insulate it to keep it cool and dry.
139431
My assorted relays and other boxes are mounted at the bottom of the center console.
139432
I haven’t completed the wiring or a lot of other things, so I don’t know what challenges I’ve made for myself by doing it this way. This is my first kit car.

[hartwellguy]

Seems to be a consensus that both fuse panels go in the front, which is what I was thinking would make the most sense. I'm still in the process of dieting my harness so until I get it all apart it's kind of hard to figure what will reach where. STiPWRD Your finished tunnel/console is beautiful!

[hartwellguy]

From reading the forum and examining the wires, I decided to mount the black main fuse panel and the tan fuse panel in the front under the dash to cut down on the number of wires needing lengthening. However, I decided to add air conditioning, so I moved them to the very front of the center console. Like others, I cut the black 6 relay holder down to 3 and placed it behind the tan fuse panel. I did have to do a lot of wire shortening to clean things up.
139430
My ECU is in the upper right corner of the engine compartment per the manual. I don’t think accessibility is necessary, but I may have to insulate it to keep it cool and dry.
139431
My assorted relays and other boxes are mounted at the bottom of the center console.
139432
I haven’t completed the wiring or a lot of other things, so I don’t know what challenges I’ve made for myself by doing it this way. This is my first kit car.

Your wiring job is so neat! Something to aspire to. This is also my first kit car.